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iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement

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  1. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement, Battery: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

    Also unplug the computer just before taking the two steps described above.

    Ken Horner - Replica

  2. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement, Keyboard: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

    • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

    • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

  3. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • If the computer does not have an Airport card installed, skip the next two steps.

    • Push the wire clasp toward the Airport card and pull it up to free it from the RAM shield.

  4. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 4, immagine 1 di 1
    • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the Airport card and pull toward the right.

  5. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Hold the Airport card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

  6. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

  7. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

  8. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

    Note: The cable may have adhesive holding it to a shield. Pull in an upward direction gently, with an evenly distributed force across the cable until it comes loose from the shield.

    gsp - Replica

    I feel this step needs clarification: Are just lifting the cable away from the shield, or are we removing the cable entirely?

    David Maag - Replica

  9. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement, Lower Case: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

    Don’t we need to remove the screws before the next step?

    David - Replica

    Remove the two long screws along the back edge, and the shorter screw in the middle. Torx T-8. Pry up the rubber feet, and unscrew the three Phillips screws that hold the feet in place. Putting the silver collars back requires a little bit of fiddling to get them oriented correctly so they sit flush with the bottom case.

    Robin Ray - Replica

    Step 10 should come after step 15.

    Robin Ray - Replica

  10. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

  11. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the three 5.2 mm newly-revealed Phillips screws.

    Screw sizes are 2.5mm x 6mm flat low profile head or cheese head.

    Xnriqu - Replica

    this should be after step 12 no?

    panakabear - Replica

    This should be step 3.

    Ken Horner - Replica

  12. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

  13. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the one 10 mm and two 20 mm hex screws using a 2mm hex. Alternatively, a T8 Torx screwdriver key will do.

    FYI, the two screws at the top of this picture are longer than the one in the middle of the case. Don't mix them up!

    JuciusMaximus - Replica

    Top screws are 20 mm, middle one is 10 mm. These have thread lock.

    commenter - Replica

    The 3 long screws (not the ones under the rubber feet) are 2.5mm x 20mm metric. Head style is cheese head. i found replacements for these at ACE hardware, for about $0.08 each in a flat head drive style which IMO are better than the hex style that can easily be stripped.

    Xnriqu - Replica

    I'm using a T9 here as my T8 is way too small.

    Matt - Replica

    Two of the hex screws here got stripped. Please, replace them ASAP and I would recommend not putting them back just to not risk making them stuck. I spent 30 minutes trying to get those two out.

    Anton Barbone - Replica

  14. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 14, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the two 4.2 mm Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

  15. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 15, immagine 1 di 1
    • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

    • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

  16. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 16, immagine 1 di 1
    • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

    If your iBook's been opened many times (Like mine has been) then this piece may be broken.

    If it's cracked down the middle or a little off, what you'll want to do is use your bent paperclip from a few steps later (or another screwdriver) and pull the second piece away from the shell when you start lifting. should pull right out

    Christian Wacker - Replica

  17. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

  18. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 18, immagine 1 di 1
    • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound out port.

    isn’t this step out of order? It belongs much later I think

    panakabear - Replica

    This should be step 4.

    Ken Horner - Replica

  19. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 19, immagine 1 di 1
    • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free (it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down).

    You might wanna use your spudger to pry up those back tabs to. You might break the bottom case just wiggling around waiting for it to pop loose.

    neato - Replica

    The orange screw on my machine has no head on it and is simply a flat surface. There is no way to remove it and consequently I completely trashed my unit attempting to remove the top cover.

    There went a few bucks all for nothing as I had a spare HD sitting here ready to put in!

    Calum - Replica

    Be aware that you may need to use a spudger at the front of the computer to separate the metal shield from the bottom case.

    michael leahy - Replica

  20. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 20, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

    Clean the springs and put them back, hopefully without breaking the small plastic pieces on the top of each spring. One of mine broke off and the other one was already missing. Poor design.

    Ken Horner - Replica

  21. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement, Bottom Shield: passo 21, immagine 1 di 1
    • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

  22. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 22, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the five 5.8 mm Phillips screws from the bottom shield.

    • Peel back the yellow tape and foil shielding outlined in the image.

    Upper left screw is 4.5 mm and has smaller head. The other four are 6 mm.

    commenter - Replica

    Don't peel back the long foil shielding pictured top right! It should stay attached to the bottom shield that you are removing.

    neato - Replica

    Citazione da commenter:

    Upper left screw is 4.5 mm and has smaller head. The other four are 6 mm.

    All of the five screws are the same 6 mm in length (iBook G3 600 MHz)

    florguh - Replica

  23. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 23, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the bottom shield off.

  24. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement, Upper Case: passo 24, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following 4 screws on the bottom of the computer:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips from the left side of the computer.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips near the latch mechanism (this screw may be missing in 800 MHz iBooks)

    • One 14.2 mm Phillips near the front, right corner.

    This photo is a little confusing. The shield should be off, which would show the correct positions of the yellow and orange screws. (The orange circle is in the wrong place.) Furthermore, these screws don't need to be removed at this stage (they hold the logic board to the frame). And finally, on my 800 MHz machine, BOTH these screws are 6 mm in length.

    commenter - Replica

    Citazione da commenter:

    This photo is a little confusing. The shield should be off, which would show the correct positions of the yellow and orange screws. (The orange circle is in the wrong place.) Furthermore, these screws don't need to be removed at this stage (they hold the logic board to the frame). And finally, on my 800 MHz machine, BOTH these screws are 6 mm in length.

    The two red screws and the orange screw have to be removed (iBook G3 600 MHz).

    florguh - Replica

    Citazione da Rolf Hug:

    The two red screws and the orange screw have to be removed (iBook G3 600 MHz).

    As well the yellow screw has to be removed according to description

    florguh - Replica

    On my 800, the yellow screw is a 6mm Phillips with a wide head.

    Eric Miller - Replica

  25. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 25, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use a straightened paperclip to open the optical drive tray.

    A sim card removal tool works well too

    Yerboi Marky - Replica

  26. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 26, immagine 1 di 1
    • Pull the optical drive out just enough so that you can access and remove a Phillips screw near the battery compartment.

    this is the most difficult part in the whole repair

    karel b - Replica

    i think that we can leave that one out on re-assembly

    Chris Green - Replica

    It's quite hard to get to the screw and loosen it.

    florguh - Replica

    If you fully extend the tray it's fairly easy to get to the screw by going inside the rails. And grab it with tweezers.

    Ty Leavitt - Replica

    When re-installing use something sticky on your screwdriver to hold the screw in place, or it's never going in. The sleep magnet is nasty at grabbing your screw and pulling it away. (Doesn't hurt to have something sticky on it for taking it out too...)

    Christian Wacker - Replica

    There is no way to go in STRAIGHT without risking to damage the tray! The screw head is just too far off to the left and is covered by the tray. So I opened completely the tray and I could barely remove it from inside the try guide.

    taf - Replica

    Hey Steve; My advice would be to NEVER replace a tray drive with a slot drive! In my-not-very-humble opinion, slot drives are garbage, and are unfit to be used in ANY Mac computer.

    dentoni - Replica

    If you're doing this type of work, what's wonderful is to have a set of technicians magnetic drivers. I have a set of twelve that are about 6"long, and very skinny. Phillips 1, 0, 00, & 000 . . . Torx 6, 7, 8, 9, & 10 . . . and slotted 5/64", 3/32", & 1/8". I wish I could remember where I got them, but you could probably Google it. One of the smaller magnetic Phillips was perfect for removal AND replacing this screw. A word of CAUTION, though . . . probably best to keep any magnetic tools away from sensitive components on the PC board.

    Tom - Replica

    To anyone that’s absolutely stuck: there is a little slot along the drive where the screwdriver fits in. I didn’t know this for at least 3 times I took apart this computer, and finding this now has helped me sooooo much.

    Anton Barbone - Replica

  27. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • Pull the optical drive a bit more so that you can access and remove a second Phillips screw near the power receptacle.

    This one is tiniest (shortist) so far

    Rufleyboy - Replica

    Be sure when installing a slot drive to replace these screws before installing the drive!!

    steve - Replica

  28. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Turn over the computer and open it.

    • Use tweezers (or a refrigerator magnet) to remove the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.

    Forget the tweezers or magnet. Just use a 1.0 common tip/flat blade screw driver and flip the magnet out of its receptacle. Takes just a few seconds to do.

    buxstf98 - Replica

  29. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 29, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following 4 screws on the edges of the keyboard area.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.

    • Three 6 mm Phillips in plastic depressions.

    the three 6mm screws may require more torque than previous screws.

    tir38 - Replica

  30. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 30, immagine 1 di 1
    • Peel up the foil tape covering the speaker cable near the ports.

  31. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 31, immagine 1 di 1
    • This is a diagram of the trackpad ribbon clamp connector you will disconnect in the next step.

    • 1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).

    • 2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

    tweezers work better than fingernails for this step.

    tir38 - Replica

  32. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 32, immagine 1 di 1
    • Loosen the trackpad connector by pulling the top piece up slightly, freeing the trackpad ribbon.

    • Slide the orange trackpad ribbon out of the connector.

  33. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 33, immagine 1 di 1
    • Before you can jerk the upper case off with joy, you must disconnect both the blue and white power cable and red and black speaker cable as described in the next steps.

    • Lift the upper case from the left side and use your other hand to pull out the right side in order to clear the power receptacle.

    • There may be a thin metal bar fastened to the upper case by the two screws on either side of the optical drive. This bar provides rigidity around the optical drive; don't forget it when reassembling.

    I had one (800MHz), that on the B&W power cable, it was so tight that it pulled the socket from the PC board. Never had that happen before, although the potential exists on many of them. Needless to say, that machine is now allocated as a parts unit. What I found is the safest way, and really not all that much trouble, is the remove the 5 screws, peel back the tape, and remove the speaker/switch units from the top cover. Worked for me, and avoided the risk mentioned above.

    Tom - Replica

  34. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 34, immagine 1 di 1
    • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

    • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    blue up and white down

    edosso - Replica

    Not unless you have to! Most parts can be removed with this left in. Don't try pulling on it unless you have to, it can easily break the logic board. Just tilt the upper case up to lean it on the display.

    QEII Student IT - Replica

    Much easier if you do this after Step 37.

    Benn Snyder - Replica

    when putting back the connectors I bent the bloody pins, do it when you are relaxed............

    bgfra - Replica

    Citazione da bgfra:

    when putting back the connectors I bent the bloody pins, do it when you are relaxed............

    Can easily repair them using a watch repair magnifier (3 euros)

    bgfra - Replica

    It is alot easier to get at after you pull the speaker cable out. Use something small to pop it out of place though, I broke my extra spare being a little too hasty.

    Christian Wacker - Replica

    This connector has a small catch on the right. slipping a sharp object (eg: pin) between the connector and it holder will release the catch. The connector should now come off easily.

    Lawrence Lau - Replica

    I put this comment in the last step, but perhaps it should go here as well:

    I had one (800MHz), that on the B&W power cable, it was so tight that it pulled the socket from the PC board. Never had that happen before, although the potential exists on many of them. Needless to say, that machine is now allocated as a parts unit. What I found is the safest way, and really not all that much trouble, is the remove the 5 screws, peel back the tape, and remove the speaker/switch units from the top cover. Worked for me, and avoided the risk mentioned above.

    Tom - Replica

  35. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 35, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the red and black speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    There is a magnet covering a screw to the left of the serial number located in the upper center of the upper case. Remove the magnet, smooth,round and small, and loosen (doesn't need to come out) the screw to remove the upper case. Proceed to disconnecting the speaker and power cables. NOTE: this magnet is not the same one indicated in step image 33.

    Marsha - Replica

    Oops - second attempt to install a hard drive in this; the second time unlucky. Last time I left the red and black cable in place; this time, I ripped the socket mentioned out.

    Albert Einstein I am not - Replica

  36. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 36, immagine 1 di 1
    • There is a magnet that allows the computer to detect when the laptop is closed. If this magnet is not present your computer will not automatically go to sleep. Be sure the magnet is in the position indicated.

    The DC board can be removed now. Disconnect the cable from the DC board. There is enough play to lift the board out. There is no need to remove the top shield.

    tyler - Replica

  37. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement, Top Shield: passo 37, immagine 1 di 1
    • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

    I found that at this point I was able to avoid any further steps by removing the screw from the DC in board and the flip the machine over to reveal its connection to the board. I removed this connection and then was able to wiggle the board out and snake the cord out. Avoiding Step 38 saves a lot of screw removal. Not to mention not having to remove the CD Drive also saves a lot of time.

    Just be careful when doing this that you do not force the board out of its place. There is room to remove it, but it is a gentle task.

    scottgriz - Replica

  38. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 38, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following 14 screws (some models may be missing a couple of screws):

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips.

    • Six 3.5 mm Phillips.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips near the sleep light with a small shaft.

    • Two 4.5 mm Phillips with larger shafts.

    • Four 5 mm Phillips

    • If a screw is inserted in the left hole, the 14.2 mm screw in step 24 can not be inserted to hold the top case down.

    If your iBook is like mine (700MHz) The yellow screw was attached from the bottom through the bottom case and had to be removed earlier in order to remove the bottom case. Also the the green screw pictured to the left was missing already removed.

    neato - Replica

    Citazione da neato:

    If your iBook is like mine (700MHz) The yellow screw was attached from the bottom through the bottom case and had to be removed earlier in order to remove the bottom case. Also the the green screw pictured to the left was missing already removed.

    It's the same to iBook G3 600 MHz

    florguh - Replica

    It is also the same for the iBook G3 500 MHz (late 2001)!

    Matt - Replica

  39. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 39, immagine 1 di 1
    • Peel back three strips of yellow tape in the bottom left corner.

    • Peel back one strip of foil tape in the upper left corner and another near where the trackpad connects to the logic board.

    The foil tape next to the trackpad connector is not marked in the pic

    Rufleyboy - Replica

    There is also foil tape, cetre front, in the cutout for the catch mechanism

    Mark Pearse - Replica

  40. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 40, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

  41. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement, Optical Drive: passo 41, immagine 1 di 1
    • If you have already removed the hard drive or display in a previous step, your iBook may differ slightly from the picture.

    • On the bottom of the computer, disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

    No reason to disconnect the DC-In cable. Nothing we are doing requires it disconnected and it is a fragile and vital piece of a "working machine."

    Edward Kaye - Replica

  42. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 42, immagine 1 di 1
    • Flip the computer over and open the display.

    • Open the optical drive using a straightened paperclip (if it's not already opened).

    • Peel up the yellow tape from the optical drive.

  43. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 43, immagine 1 di 1
    • This step may vary on some iBook models. If the screws shown are not on your iBook, you may need to flip the computer over and remove two screws attaching the bottom of the optical drive to the metal framework.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the metal framework.

  44. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 44, immagine 1 di 1
    • Peel back the orange ribbon cable to reveal a single Phillips screw. Remove this screw to free the optical drive from the metal framework.

    In my iBook, there was no need to remove the screw under the ribbon cable. It's just a part of the optical drive.

    neato - Replica

    On mine (800MHz) there are 2 screws visible here, one of which is, indeed, just one of the optical drive case screws as you mentioned. But the other one was what it appears is mentioned here in Step 44.

    Tom - Replica

  45. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 45, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the optical drive by the edge closest to the screen, minding that the metal bracket at the top left corner doesn't catch on the Airport or inverter cables.

  46. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 46, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the large orange ribbon cable and thin metal bracket to the drive.

  47. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 47, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the ribbon cable from the optical drive.

    • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

    If you've made it this far, you've probably realized that you underestimated the work involved. You can finish, but it's going to be painful.

    ianwright - Replica

  48. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement, DC-In Board: passo 48, immagine 1 di 1
    • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

    picture of step 24 is confusing; go to page 9

    florguh - Replica

    Citazione da Rolf Hug:

    picture of step 24 is confusing; go to page 9

    step 27 followings

    florguh - Replica

  49. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 49, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the single 5.5 mm Phillips screw securing the DC-In board to the metal framework.

    you got a wrong order there. right now, the top shield is still up. I have no way of removing DC -in right now.

    karel b - Replica

    Aren't 37 thru ~48 unnecessary? I seem to recall that you can take the DC-in board out by some creative wedging thru the opening, instead of having to take the rest of the front off. The screw that holds it in place is accessible.

    goldnzzz - Replica

  50. iBook G3 12" DC-In Board Replacement: passo 50, immagine 1 di 1
    • Peel up the DC-In cable from the bottom of the metal framework and pull it through the conveniently-located nearby hole.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Un commento

What was the symptom(s) leading to the diagnosis that this board was in need of being replaced??

Ken Kappler - Replica

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