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Introduzione

The Bottom Motherboard on your Xbox Controller may need to be replaced if the controller is not working. Complete removal will require soldering. The link to the soldering guide is included to help you. This guide will show you how to access the bottom motherboard on your Xbox One Wireless Controller Model 1708.

  1. Slide the battery cover toward the top of the controller to remove it. Lift up  the batteries or the battery pack from the battery compartment.
    • Slide the battery cover toward the top of the controller to remove it.

    • Lift up the batteries or the battery pack from the battery compartment.

  2. Insert a plastic opening tool into the top seam, and  gently work the opening tool to the bottom of the controller. Continue using the opening tool to gently pry the side plate off of the controller.
    • Insert a plastic opening tool into the top seam, and gently work the opening tool to the bottom of the controller.

    • Continue using the opening tool to gently pry the side plate off of the controller.

    • Repeat this process for the second side plate.

    Only use a pry tool! The vibration motor wires are exposed and directly accessible from the side when opening. I attempted to open it with a small knife, expecting to be able to gently pry the clips open, accidentally sliced through my right motor’s wires.

    Sawyer Coe - Replica

    Not a sharp of course.

    Kajus Slekys -

  3. Gently peel the battery label  or punch a hole in the center of the sticker in the battery compartment to reveal the hidden screw.
    • Gently peel the battery label or punch a hole in the center of the sticker in the battery compartment to reveal the hidden screw.

    • Remove the five 9mm torx-9 security screws from the back of the controller.

    Torx-8 security bits work as well.

    jahiamir - Replica

    Torx 8 or 9 wasn’t working. I used 2.0 minus screwdriver

    richjlee - Replica

    The 2.0 minus worked for me as well.

    metric - Replica

  4. Orient the controller so the front plate is facing up. Lift the front cover off of the controller.
    • Orient the controller so the front plate is facing up.

    • Lift the front cover off of the controller.

  5. Turn the controller face down and gently lift the rear plate.
    • Turn the controller face down and gently lift the rear plate.

    Reassembly: When placing the back cover on: notice that the battery terminals need to slide inside the cover first. Then compress the triggers slightly, Then the cover will be aligned correctly. Then add the front cover and add screws so it doesn’t come undone.

    hunteil - Replica

  6. Kit per Nintendo Switch

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

    Kit per Nintendo Switch

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits
  7. Turn the device over and remove the directional pad by gently pulling it away from the controller.
    • Turn the device over and remove the directional pad by gently pulling it away from the controller.

    It needs to be made a little clearer that the thin metal retaining ring needs to be unclipped before pulling on the D-pad. A small, flatbladed screwdriver did it nicely for me.

    Paul Hough - Replica

  8. Pull the joysticks off of the controller.
    • Pull the joysticks off of the controller.

    Are the joystick potentiometers soldered to the mother board or just push fit, this guide doesn’t mention soldering so I’m assuming the latter?

    Can you get genuine replacement joystick potentiometers as I’ve only seen cheap eBay type ones?

    Alan - Replica

  9. If the rumble motors fall out of frame, the wires may disconnect from the motherboard . The wires will have to be soldered to reattach the motor.
    • If the rumble motors fall out of frame, the wires may disconnect from the motherboard . The wires will have to be soldered to reattach the motor.

    • Turn the device over and remove the two 70mm torx-6 screws in the bottom left and right corners.

    What if you don’t care about the rumble motors (always turn that feature off anyway), can I just leave them unattached?

    tracynoelle23 - Replica

  10. Firmly grasp the top and bottom motherboards in opposite hands, then gently pull them apart.
    • Firmly grasp the top and bottom motherboards in opposite hands, then gently pull them apart.

    • The top motherboard is still connected to the bottom motherboard. To fully separate the top motherboard, you will need to use a soldering iron.

    Soldering is not necessary for separation as on the top motherboard it uses a small connector commonly used in wireless assemblies for antennas. Simply pop it of using any prying tool or just your hand but make sure it is the side that has a gold or brassy finish and not a solder joint.

    Wyatt Faught - Replica

    Hey Wyatt,

    Thanks for the feedback. I was on the team that authored this guide. I did not work on this specific guide so I am not familiar with this specific connector. I will follow up with iFixIt and check this issue. Thanks for the comment!

    Dylan Gross -

    Wyatt is correct that the black wire in the center can be removed from the top motherboard, but it doesn’t do any good to do so as there are two other sets of wires (grey and black twisted pairs leading to the left and right trigger) preventing you from removing the bottom motherboard entirely. These wires are visible in the pictures of this guide.

    Frank Buccella - Replica

    I can further confirm this as I have just pulled one apart. No soldering iron required.

    Brandon - Replica

    What's is the name of the part for wireless on the controller

    justin edge - Replica

    You'll see..

    Kajus Slekys -

    In my controller that black cable (the antenna like) was separated form the board is there any way to solder it again (the socket is still conected to plug)

    Dominik Gałczyński - Replica

    I have the same problem. It popped off the board when firm pressure was applied to reconnect the wire after a repair. I'm going to attempt to apply a small bead of solder to the part that popped off, press it in place, and then heat the connector with my iron. But I am not hopeful at all. It's tight, really tight, and if it works it will be through luck alone.

    Michael Broder -

    Any luck? Theres no pad to get the solder to stick to on mine. Im assuming it is the j1 connection. Any idea what this wire is for?

    Matt Gribbin -

    Can someone help to find out the actual name of RF connector type?

    mntlzr - Replica

    Hi i destroy black wire connector on top board please help me.

    Mohsen Heidary - Replica

    It’s IPEX 4 connector, i've ordered bunch on chinese site and replaced mine. It was hard but doable.

    mntlzr -

    Hi yellow tape on board what

    Mohsen Heidary - Replica

  11. Remove the audio port from the bottom mother board. Remove the audio port from the bottom mother board.
    • Remove the audio port from the bottom mother board.

  12. Remove the three 70mm torx-6 screws from the center of the bottom motherboard. Remove the two 70mm torx-6 screws next to the rumble motors on the bottom motherboard. Remove the one 70mm torx-6 screw located on the left side of the bottom motherboard.
    • Remove the three 70mm torx-6 screws from the center of the bottom motherboard.

    • Remove the two 70mm torx-6 screws next to the rumble motors on the bottom motherboard.

    • Remove the one 70mm torx-6 screw located on the left side of the bottom motherboard.

  13. Use a plastic spudger to lift the plastic clip off the front pegs.
    • Use a plastic spudger to lift the plastic clip off the front pegs.

    • Remove the plastic clip by sliding it upwards.

    Reassembly: This hard is hard to mount. Slowly flip the controller upto view the charging port and notice it isn’t aligned yet… If you force it to outside of pcb, it’ll try to pop off. I’ve yet to figure this step out… I forced it and after full reassembly, the bumpers became REALLY stiff.

    hunteil - Replica

    Solution: Instead remove the outside piece mentioned in image… then remove the bumpers… Check that all cavities are clear. Then make sure the sync button is inserted all the way in… Then place the left bump in the far left hole first. Then ensure the horn part slides into it’s specific slot inside, then ensure the the sync button goes in hole…then continue to right bumper side…. Then add the over cover piece above it… Start with the piece that goes over the charge port. Then the front as the above image shows… Now check your bumpers for easy clicking… If it’s still not correct, remove and try again gently as the horns may snap off and the PCB may get damaged.

    hunteil - Replica

    Note: I believe the order is very important or the alignments on the left side may have the horn forced into one of the other close cavities and you won’t even know it. (This causes that horn to get damaged over time too. Without the horn, the bumper will drift and miss the button and bind up the trigger.)

    hunteil - Replica

    PS: Rubber band to hold triggers down slightly helped a ton! Otherwise the trigger is over extending into the bumper assembly space.

    hunteil - Replica

  14. Use a spudger to release the small hooks at each end of the left and right bumper. After you release these hooks, be careful as you separate the face plate from the back of the controller. The connect/sync button (see second image) is held in by this face plate and will come loose as you perform this step.
    • Use a spudger to release the small hooks at each end of the left and right bumper.

    • After you release these hooks, be careful as you separate the face plate from the back of the controller. The connect/sync button (see second image) is held in by this face plate and will come loose as you perform this step.

    Watch for the tiny button that sticks out from the top - it’s the wireless connect/sync button.  It will fall out and is easy to lose.  During reassembly, I found it easier to put the bumper back in first, then use a tweezers to insert the button back into place.

    w.m. williams - Replica

  15. To avoid disconnecting the wires connected to the motherboard, lift the mother board away from the plastic frame as if opening a laptop.
    • To avoid disconnecting the wires connected to the motherboard, lift the mother board away from the plastic frame as if opening a laptop.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 6 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Jesse Wilson

Membro da: 25/09/2017

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Just to clarify you don’t need to do any soldering. If you are careful enough with the top mobo and rumble motors the wires should stay connected and you can take out the bottom mobo fairly easily. I saw some youtube videos that imply that you do need to disconnect and solder them back. Not the case!

James Williamson - Replica

What is the wire that connects the two motherboards together with the copper adaptor for? When taking mine apart, the wire came loose from that tiny copper piece and is unrepairable. I think it's for the Bluetooth functionality. The wire used looks to have a very tiny wire inside itself surrounded with what looks to be ground wire. It's the black one in the middle.

crunchychipmunk90 -

It will clip back into place if you align it properly.its similar to the antenna clip of motherboard in a iPhone 4 you don’t need to solder it just lift and be careful when reattaching it don’t force it if it bends you are screwed. But when lined up right minimal pressure will snap back into place.

dankweedkilla - Replica

I’ve tried many different angles and pressures to get that thing back in, the pin doesn’t look bent but it just won’t go back in.

Jason Bogart -

does anyone know part number for controller in which the mother and daughter board are connected with a ribbon cable? this one has a plug

i need to replace the ribbon cable connector. thoughts.

steve - Replica

It looks like I'm not alone with broken RF connector case. Maybe someone had a success in repairing?

First need to find out the actual name of this connector type.

I think it's IPEX gen. 4 (MHF4), seems a fairly rare format.

IPEX gen. 1 (MHF) is much more widely spread, for example, in laptop network adapters, but it’s bigger.

mntlzr - Replica

Quick question, anytime I repair controllers what is the wire that connects from the bottom motherboard to the top motherboard for?

Brian - Replica

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