Introduzione
This guide can be used as a prerequisite to repair or replace parts on the Elite Series 2 Controller.
Cosa ti serve
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Slightly differing from the previous model, the faceplate needs to be removed before anything else. Begin by removing the joystick caps and d-pad cover.
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Once these are removed, you'll need to begin working an opening tool along with the picks around the faceplate starting at the top-left or top right.
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Slowly work around the faceplate to loosen the clips using primarily the plastic opening tools to prevent any damage to the faceplate & internal components.
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This is the only part in the face removal I would suggest using the metal spudger as you'll need a little more leverage to release the adhesive holding the faceplate down.
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Insert the metal spudger in the area located but only as far as you need to get some leverage to pry the faceplate up. Work cautiously and slowly as this can easily damage components.
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The adhesive is located in two places and because this doesn't seal the device together for IP-67/68 requirements, it isn't necessary to replace.
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The joysticks are screwed onto the stem of the potentiometers and will need some convincing to remove. These will need to be twisted counter-clockwise to remove with either of the following methods:
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Method 1: Using a joystick cap - try this first regardless as it has less possibility of damaging the device. Insert one of the joystick caps to each of the joysticks and attempt to twist by hand. If they are too tight, proceed to the second method.
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Method 2: Using pliers - using as little force as necessary to prevent slipping, squeeze the joystick near the base, where the bevel allows for a "flat edge" that the pliers can grip. Once these are loose, revert to method 1 to continue the removal.
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Remove the six T-8 Security screws holding the front and the back of the controller together. Note: one (highlighted green) is covered by a white paste/sticker that crumbles when removed; this lets you know if someone has previously disassembled your device.
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Once the screws are removed, you can insert a spudger under a vibration motor to provide a little leverage to separate the front from the back of the device.
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The third image shows the front assembly removed from the back cover.
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Begin by peeling back the tape (tweezers might help) covering the connection on the green board.
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While holding the tape back, insert the plastic pointed spudger under the connections, and the force of pushing the spudger under them should be enough to release them from the board.
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The wires will need to be desoldered from the board, and will be replaced later for reassembly.
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Note: each pair of wires has the black cable soldered to the lower connection; keep this in mind for the reassembly if the pictures from this guide aren't nearby.
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Note: You may be able to get away without desoldering these, depending on what you need to reach (credit to @bikemerlin), but due to the simplicity and fragility of these connections, I would suggest removing them to prevent additional damage.
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Some of the solder in this controller requires a very high temperature to release. I had mine set to 450 C, however you may be able to remove it at a lower temperature.
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Remove the two T-6 screws from the board near the vibration motors.
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Begin removing the motherboard by sliding it up along the pins (as noted in the picture). The left side will need to be lifted off of its pin and the board rotated counter-clockwise at a slight angle before it will be able to slide the remaining distance off of the right (longer) pin.
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The triggers will flex up a bit which allows a little extra room for the board. As with everything else in this disassembly, use caution and patience to prevent damage to any of the components.
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Once the motherboard has been removed, you may have already noticed the headphone jack has moved or fallen. If it hasn't remove it from the board now.
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There are two tabs holding the retainer for the bar in place. Gently pop these toward you with a spudger and they'll slide up from their own tension. Note: the retainer will likely stay attached to the bumper assembly, but must be removed from the main controller assembly before proceeding to the next step.
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Once the retainer has been released, again use the spudger to gently pry the buttons outward and upward (in the direction of the arrow in the image) which will release them from another clip. Do this on both sides.
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Remove the four T-6 screws holding the daughterboard to the controller frame. Keep in mind this board holds all of the remaining buttons in place, so be careful none of them are lost when removing this.
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Note: All of the buttons have clips surrounding them that prevent any of the buttons from being installed in the wrong place; be sure not to force any of them into a different location when reassembling the device.
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When reassembling, do not force anything into place as this could indicate something has been installed improperly.
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That's it! Hopefully this guide allowed you to access any components that need replacing.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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11 Commenti
Hi Wayne,
thank you for the guide.
I have an issue with my controller and I can’t find the answer anywhere so here’s hoping maybe you could help me.
In shortest trigger movement setting (hair triggers) I can press LT and the movement is restricted as it should but software doesn’t registered the button as fully pressed. In Xbox Accessories I can see that the controller thinks I’ve pressed the button at around 30%.
I assume this is a hardware issue but I’m not sure which part I should be looking at. I’m a beginner tinkerer :)
Off-hand, I don't know how the controller is doing this unless it's using 3 different potentiometers per trigger. I'd be willing to bet the problem is with software though because I've had the same problem in the past, but never really looked into it. I just checked mine now and it shows the hair-triggers to be working as expected in all positions; I checked these in both the Xbox Accessories app and Windows controller settings. Instead of tearing down the controller as a first step, I'd try checking for updates with everything: Xbox Accessories, Windows, the controller firmware, and the Windows driver for the controller specifically. If any of those have an update, restart your computer (after any single update) and then re-check all of them for updates again. If that doesn't work, let me know and I can try checking into my controller components to see what all compose the trigger assembly since I need to replace a couple of buttons that are wearing out anyway!
I have tried updating firmware of the gamepad but 5.11 and beyond does not really work well on Win10 and Bluetooth (Xbox Elite 2 is recognized as standard Xbox controller and paddles don't work). However, I did verify that I encounter this issue on 4.8 (bluetooth and cable) and 5.13 (cable).
I have reverted the firmware back to 4.8. I have deleted and reinstalled Xbox peripherals drivers as well as uninstalled most Human Interface Devices drivers & restarted my PC. Didn't help.
I took screenshots hoping this would clarify my issue:
https://ibb.co/8jK5bMS - RT is in hair-trigger (shortest movement), RT is registered as fully pressed
https://ibb.co/gTcWgWG - LT is also in hair-trigger, here I'm pressing LT as hard as I can but it's registered as ~35% pressed
https://ibb.co/9wfzDMR - gamepad tester tells me that the button is not pressed fully
It'll be a few days before I can tear my controller down, but just to confirm, your right trigger is working fine and it's just the left trigger not registering the hair-trigger switch?
Yes, RT is working fine. LT works correctly in a sense that I cannot press it fully due to hair trigger lock but the press doesn’t fully register. Are there any sensors there responsible for analyzing strength of the press? The button is analog so maybe there’s something…
It’s worth adding that this has started happening after I gave the controller to 3rd party retail for LB/RB exchange. I cannot establish if they really did change the bumpers or just opened the gamepad and removed these white plastics (but I don’t see the plastics anymore).
