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Background: My left analog stick started having drift and left-right phantom input problems, so this controller was already on the deathbed.

For disassembly, I drilled two screws out because I didn't want to wait for a longer T6 driver, so this controller is permanently damaged now both physically and (already was) electronically.

Questo smontaggio non è una guida di riparazione. Per riparare il tuo Steam Controller, usa il nostro manuale di assistenza.

  1. I did not have one on me, (the pro tech toolkit does not have one long enough) so I ended up drilling out two of the four side screws.
    • I did not have one on me, (the pro tech toolkit does not have one long enough) so I ended up drilling out two of the four side screws.

    • Go ahead and take off the back plate and remove the batteries.

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  2. Start by taking out the 4 obvious screws, two on each side.
    • Start by taking out the 4 obvious screws, two on each side.

      • You'll need a long-necked T6 driver if you want to get these out cleanly. (At least 1" / 25mm.)

      • The pro tech toolkit does not have one long enough, so I used a slightly hacked hex key on two of them (stripping the heads) and ended up drilling out the other two because the hex key is not a good fit.

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    • These are hidden under the label, simply use a sharp blade or just punch through the label with something sharp.

    • There are two at the top just outside the holes showing metal, and one near the bottom center.

      • The two at the top are much deeper in, but my normal T6 fits just fine.

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    • Starting at the bottom center seems easiest and leaves the least amount of visual scratches.

    • Go all the way around, going below/behind the USB port. (see second picture)

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    • Upon removing the backplate, there will be two battery hinges that may come off on either side.

      • I recommend keeping them on the backplate for reassembly later.

    • Next there is the backplate release switch, composed of two plastic parts and two springs.

      • See the 3rd picture of those parts.

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    • Two screws near the top center.

    • Two screws on the far sides on top of the battery holder plastic backings.

    • Don't take the motherboard off yet - there are ribbon cables attached underneath.

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    • Two screws hold each touchpad in place. They are mirrored across.

    • You might need to lift the motherboard by a finger's width to reach two of the four screws. (They are slightly underneath the battery holder plastic.)

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    • The only thing attached to the trackpads are the ribbon cables, be careful when lifting the motherboard off the front face plastic.

    • Watch out for the buttons falling out if you flip the front face over. There is a rubber/conductive silicone part that covers them all.

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    • This step is only needed if you are replacing a trackpad.

    • These ribbon cables are actually really easy to take out, just tug gently straight away from the board.

    • ESD-safe tweezers are recommended for re-insertion, as the stiff ends are very small and difficult to grasp.

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    • This thing literally just pops off using two plastic pressure-based latches. Just pull it in the direction the USB cable would go from the motherboard.

    • When the USB I/O panel comes off, so will the two bumper buttons. The two top bumpers are actually one long plastic part, who knew?

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    • The screw for the bumper setups is on the opposite side of the motherboard, under the trackpad location.

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Ben Klein

Membro da: 06/08/2018

193 Reputazione

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