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Introduzione

Usa questa guida come aiuto per sostituire una ventola sinistra danneggiata, rotta o non funzionante.

Nota che la ventola sinistra è, con il MacBook in uso, sulla sinistra, mentre è sulla destra del dispositivo mentre stai lavorando per sostituirla.

  1. Rimuovi le seguenti viti pentalobe P5 che tengono unita la parte inferiore del case al resto del MacBook Pro:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti pentalobe P5 che tengono unita la parte inferiore del case al resto del MacBook Pro:

    • Otto da 3,1 mm

    • Due da 2,3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Replica

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Replica

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Replica

    Battery Recall for 15-inch MacBook Pro Retina mid-2015. Check Apple’s site for recalls, and put in your serial number. They replaced my swelling battery for free, regardless of warranty.

    Steve -

    As we are only replacing the battery, you can safely skip steps 6-26 and 28-48, no need to disassemble the computer to pull out the battery. Use nail polisher remover I was able to pull a super bloated battery out, without disassembling my MacBook.

    John Sikking -

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - Replica

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - Replica

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - Replica

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - Replica

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - Replica

    Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

    Ann Brainard - Replica

    After replacing the batteries myself, I wouldn’t even consider doing it again. Not that it’s difficult to do—that’s not the issue. The issue is aftermarket batteries. I’ve been using notebooks for well over 30 years, and never had satisfaction with aftermarket batteries.

    Modern lithium batteries are an amazing technological feat, but a dangerous one. So even putting aside that I’ve never found any aftermarket batteries with quality anywhere near original, I learned “cheap” aftermarket lithium batteries are downright dangerous.

    After doing research into what’s involved with manufacturing lithium batteries, I know there are so many corners to cut, you’ll end up with junk regardless of what you pay.

    A week after replacing my batteries with those from iFixit, they showed clear signs of failure. Thank goodness iFixit refunded my money.

    After having Apple replace my batteries, everything is back to like-new. For my $199, I got not only excellent batteries, but a new keyboard and trackpad as well. That’s it’s done!!!

    AnnoniMoose - Replica

    I found an Apple Support link that said MBP battery replacement was $199, but the 2 Apple Stores near my house would not provide any appointments. Instead, I scheduled an appointment with and “Apple Authorized Service Provider” & that repair center quoted about $750 to replace the battery.

    I refused, went home, & opened a chat with Apple Support.

    After a lengthy & painful chat session where the Apple tech didn’t want to provide a battery replacement quote (he feared other issues with the MBPr), he finally gave me an Apple price of just under $650 to replace the battery.

    Did you go into an Apple store, or mail it in? I’m struggling to reconcile a price of $199 to get a battery + keyboard + trackpad against what I was just quoted 2 weeks ago. The new track pad & keyboard might have been due to repair tech error. i.e. they trashed those repairing your batter & had to toss them in.

    Bartt.Shelton@gmail.com - Replica

  2. Sollevandolo delicatamente dal bordo vicino alla cover della frizone, alza dal MacBook Pro il case posteriore. Sollevandolo delicatamente dal bordo vicino alla cover della frizone, alza dal MacBook Pro il case posteriore.
    • Sollevandolo delicatamente dal bordo vicino alla cover della frizone, alza dal MacBook Pro il case posteriore.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - Replica

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    J G - Replica

    Good opportunity to give a good clean out. Air duster and small clean paint brush on plastic surfaces to clean up essential vents and fans. You can load fan monitor and control software to see what your your system is doing and how it improves with a clean up.

    Robin Razzell - Replica

  3. Il case inferiore è dotato di due perni di plastica (evidenziati con i rettangoli in rosso) che si inseriscono nelle clip sempre di plastica nella parte superiore del case (evidenziate nella foto con i rettangoli color arancione). Durante il riassemblaggio, spingi delicatamente verso il basso il centro del case inferiore per riattaccarlo alle due clip di plastica. Durante il riassemblaggio, spingi delicatamente verso il basso il centro del case inferiore per riattaccarlo alle due clip di plastica.
    • Il case inferiore è dotato di due perni di plastica (evidenziati con i rettangoli in rosso) che si inseriscono nelle clip sempre di plastica nella parte superiore del case (evidenziate nella foto con i rettangoli color arancione).

    • Durante il riassemblaggio, spingi delicatamente verso il basso il centro del case inferiore per riattaccarlo alle due clip di plastica.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Replica

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Replica

    Impossible to put those peds into the upper case clips! It just does not hold there, it fits but just does the ‘click’ sound and goes back. Is it possible to buy those clips as spare part? Thank you for help.

    Lopez Loku - Replica

    Same for me. It just never clips, regardless of the precision and the amount of force I apply.

    Vadym Borodin - Replica

    I also think I stripped the screws holding the clips in place. Does anyone know what screw characteristics should I look for as a replacement?

    Vadym Borodin - Replica

  4. Stacca lo sticker che copre il connettore batteria.
    • Stacca lo sticker che copre il connettore batteria.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Replica

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Replica

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Replica

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Replica

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv - Replica

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo - Replica

    pay attention that the macbook in this picture is presented the “wrong side”: if you accidentally remove the tape covering the trackpad cable and thereby also take the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket, your keyboard and trackpad won’t work anymore. putting the trackpad cable back into the (tiny) socket will fix the issue though.

    sam - Replica

  5. Solleva con cautela ogni lato del connettore della batteria per staccare il connettore dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Piega il connettore indietro verso la batteria, per evitare che possa fare contatto accidentalmente con la scheda logica. Piega il connettore indietro verso la batteria, per evitare che possa fare contatto accidentalmente con la scheda logica.
    • Solleva con cautela ogni lato del connettore della batteria per staccare il connettore dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega il connettore indietro verso la batteria, per evitare che possa fare contatto accidentalmente con la scheda logica.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Replica

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Replica

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Replica

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Replica

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Replica

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - Replica

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv - Replica

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    J G - Replica

    I need dis board hw much

    Ebuka Ofodile - Replica

    After separating the battery connector, I took the addd precaution of placing a folded post-it between the connector bank and the socket.

    Matt Fisher - Replica

    You can also use a plastic tool to hold back the battery connector. My connector was under the plastic tab and had no screws. You may need to check the build version as there are a number of A1398 versions.

    Robin Razzell - Replica

  6. Stacca la copertura in gomma di sinistra dalla ventola e richiedere in modo che non dia fastidio. Stacca la copertura in gomma di sinistra dalla ventola e richiedere in modo che non dia fastidio.
    • Stacca la copertura in gomma di sinistra dalla ventola e richiedere in modo che non dia fastidio.

  7. Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di sinistra alla scheda logica:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di sinistra alla scheda logica:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,6 mm a testa larga

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,0 mm con una parte cilindrica lunga 2,0 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 4,4 mm

    the yellow one may not go back in during reassembly unless the board is perfect. Stripped mine in the effort - put back together without this screw :(

    Paul Forgey - Replica

    I ran in a similar misalignment so had to bend the top left loop a bit to make it fit.

    Not a big issue, but better to lay it in and check the alignment of all screw holes (and adapt if necessary) before putting the screws in.

    I saw my replacement part had already a bit of paint missing at the top left and bottom right holes, so I assume it is a refurbished or sourced part, so a bit of tweaking may be necessary. BTW, the fan works perfectly, no more annoying clicking noises.

    Maarten S - Replica

  8. Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sul lo zoccolino ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola sinistra. Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolino stesso.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sul lo zoccolino ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola sinistra.

    • Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolino stesso.

  9. Solleva la ventola e spingi la con cautela verso il bordo posteriore del MacBook per liberare il cavo della ventola dal suo zoccolino. Il cavo della ventola potrebbe aderire alla scheda logica: in questo caso, per evitare di stirarlo, staccalo con attenzione mentre sollevi la ventola.
    • Solleva la ventola e spingi la con cautela verso il bordo posteriore del MacBook per liberare il cavo della ventola dal suo zoccolino.

    • Il cavo della ventola potrebbe aderire alla scheda logica: in questo caso, per evitare di stirarlo, staccalo con attenzione mentre sollevi la ventola.

    • Rimuovi la ventola.

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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2 Commenti

First repair job. After 5 years of use my laptop was getting heated quicker than the oven and making that antique modem noises. With 2 screwdrivers and a plastic card to pry the connectors cleaned all the dust inside the case and the fans following the fan replacement guides without any trouble. Huge thanks to Andrew for this very detailed page! Btw, if you intent to reuse the fans, be careful with the connector cables. They are not flexible, they bent easily and might break.

Furkan Karagöz - Replica

Thank you so much - I used this to access and clean (but not replace) the fan.

CCC - Replica

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