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Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013

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  1. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013, Case inferiore: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Prima di procedere, spegni il tuo Macbook. Chiudi il display e appoggialo su una superficie morbida, con la parte superiore in basso.

    • Usa un cacciavite P5 Pentalobe per rimuovere le dieci viti che tengono in posizione il case inferiore, delle seguenti lunghezze:

    • Due viti da 9 mm

    • Otto viti da 2,6 mm

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Replica

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Replica

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Replica

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Replica

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Replica

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Replica

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Replica

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Replica

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Replica

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Replica

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Replica

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Replica

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Replica

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Replica

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Replica

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Replica

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Replica

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Replica

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Replica

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Replica

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Replica

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Replica

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Replica

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Replica

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Replica

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Replica

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Replica

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - Replica

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen - Replica

    On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.


    Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

    Rich Garella - Replica

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

    shrhh - Replica

  2. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Inserisci le tue dita tra il display e il case inferiore e tira verso l'alto per separare il case inferiore dal MacBook Air.

    • Rimuovi il case inferiore e mettilo da parte.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Replica

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Replica

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Replica

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke - Replica

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Replica

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Replica

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - Replica

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson - Replica

  3. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013, Connettore della Batteria: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013, Connettore della Batteria: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • Per assicurarti che nulla sia alimentato e non si possa accendere mentre stai lavorando, è raccomandato scollegare la batteria.

    • Afferra la piccola striscia di plastica trasparente attaccata al connettore della batteria e tirala parallelamente alla scheda verso il bordo anteriore dell'Air.

    • Non sollevare il connettore per disconnetterlo in quanto potresti danneggiarne l'alloggiamento.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Replica

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Replica

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Replica

    After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.

    The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)

    It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.

    AnnoniMoose - Replica

    There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.

    rmccord23 -

    What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?

    Carla Tisdale - Replica

    Yep, exactly the issue that I have

    Martin Adams -

    Where can i buy the battery connector?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Replica

    Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Replica

    Connector socket came off, can I just glue it into place?

    Lisa Mac - Replica

  4. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013, Cavo scheda I/O: passo 4, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo della scheda I/O e scollegarlo dalla presa sulla scheda I/O.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Replica

  5. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Scolla delicatamente il cavo della scheda I/O dall'adesivo che le tiene fermo sopra la ventola.

    • Quando riassembli, assicurati che il cavo sia posizionato correttamente. Può essere inserito al contrario ma il portatile non si avvierà.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Replica

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - Replica

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - Replica

    I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!

    Alexae Visel - Replica

    20.00000.000$

    Dewi Oasis - Replica

  6. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013: passo 6, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013: passo 6, immagine 2 di 2
    • Il seguente connettore ha una presa specialmente profonda. Presta attenzione quando lo scolleghi.

    • Mentre tiri delicatamente il cavo vicino alla sua presa sulla scheda madre, usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per far leva su entrambi i lati del connettore alternandoli per muoverlo man mano verso l'alto e scollegarlo.

    • Rimuovi il cavo della scheda I/O.

    pour le remontage

    de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )

    matthiasf40 - Replica

    A client was careless and used a fingernail to pry up the cable in one pull. It pulled the socket right off the logic board.

    w98fxr - Replica

  7. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013, Ventola: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per ruotare attentamente verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo della ventola.

    • Assicurati di far leva sull'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sul connettore stesso.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Replica

    My retaining flap broke instantly when lifting up with the spudger. Is that normal or possible to fix?

    Cameron Lawrence - Replica

    Similar problem, but with the microphone flap. Did you manage to fix it or get it back in?

    Edwin -

    I've performed many repairs on 13" MacBook Airs ('MBA's), including two heat sink compound 're-dos' just today (on a 2014 13" and a 2015 13").

    It is not necessary to remove the I/O Board to take out the heatsink. And I've done it both ways - its way easier if you leave the I/O board in place. Here's why: removing the I/O board requires dis -and re-connecting two extremely delicate connectors as well as several cables that are really tricky to get back in place, all critical connections. If you aren't experienced with this kind of work, its taxing.

    Instead, once you remove the flat I/O cable, remove the 3 screws holding in the fan and the two hinge screws securing the antenna cable guide. Now the screw securing the tip of the 'radiator' end of the heat sink will be pretty easy to access. The detached fan can moved (and you don't need /want to move it much!) to disengage the rubber shroud where it goes under the fan and gently guide the 'radiator' out.

    clinton - Replica

  8. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013: passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi la guarnizione in gomma incollata sopra la ventola.

    In my case the adhesive had already come undone through normal use.

    Tito Jankowski - Replica

    lol same thing for me.

    h_man08 - Replica

  9. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le tre seguenti viti che fissano la ventola alla scocca superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,6 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 2,7 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,6 mm con la testa corta

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - Replica

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Replica

  10. Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013: passo 10, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione ventola MacBook Air 13" metà 2013: passo 10, immagine 2 di 2
    • Solleva la ventola dalla parte della scheda I/O e tirala via dalla scocca superiore.

    • Rimuovere la ventola scollegherà anche il suo cavo a nastro. Stai attento a non strapparlo.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - Replica

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Replica

    If you are careful with the ribbon cable, there is no need to remove it, the fan will swing out of the way enough. I applied a small amount of sticky tape over the connector to keep it in place, just in case!

    Damian Holland - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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3 Commenti

Step 1

My mid-2013 MacBook Air requires a pentalobe P4 driver, not a pentalobe P5 driver. I got a set of P1 - P6 so it wasn't an issue for me.

Scott - Replica

Do I need the artic silver thermal paste? I know the guide does not mention it, but a repair guy I went to first included it in the quote they gave me to fix the fan ($200 for parts and work for a fan replacement)

Mary Austin Morgan - Replica

Arctic silver is a great thermal paste, but in my experience the swapping of the fans does not require any thermal paste. Thermal paste is usually used in between the connections of the computer's processor heat sink(s) and the processor, as well as the graphics card and the heat sinks.

Barrythetech -

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