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Panoramica Video

    • Rimuovi le 10 viti seguenti che fissano il coperchio inferiore al case superiore:

    • Due viti Pentalobe P5 da 2,3 mm

    • Otto viti Pentalobe P5 da 3,0 mm

    • Nel corso di tutta la riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati che ritorni nel suo posto originario per evitare danni al tuo dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Replica

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Replica

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Replica

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Replica

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Replica

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Replica

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Replica

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Replica

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Replica

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Replica

  1. Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.
    • Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.

    • Con delicatezza, tira il coperchio inferiore per staccarlo da quello superiore.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Replica

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Replica

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Replica

  2. Il case inferiore è collegato a quello superiore con due clip di plastica in posizione centrale. Durante il rimontaggio, spingi con delicatezza il centro del case inferiore per riattaccare le due clip in plastica.
    • Il case inferiore è collegato a quello superiore con due clip di plastica in posizione centrale.

    • Durante il rimontaggio, spingi con delicatezza il centro del case inferiore per riattaccare le due clip in plastica.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Replica

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Replica

  3. Se necessario, rimuovere la copertura in plastica attaccata alla scheda contatti della batteria.
    • Se necessario, rimuovere la copertura in plastica attaccata alla scheda contatti della batteria.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Replica

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Replica

  4. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Accertati di sollevare solo il connettore e non lo zoccolino, per evitare il rischio di danni permanenti alla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Accertati di sollevare solo il connettore e non lo zoccolino, per evitare il rischio di danni permanenti alla scheda logica.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Replica

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Replica

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Replica

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Replica

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Replica

  5. Piega il connettore della batteria in modo che non interferisca, per prevenire un contatto accidentale con lo zoccolino durante la riparazione.
    • Piega il connettore della batteria in modo che non interferisca, per prevenire un contatto accidentale con lo zoccolino durante la riparazione.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Replica

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Replica

  6. Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 2,1 mm che fissano la staffa del cavo della scheda I/O dalla parte della scheda logica.
    • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 2,1 mm che fissano la staffa del cavo della scheda I/O dalla parte della scheda logica.

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - Replica

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - Replica

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - Replica

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - Replica

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - Replica

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Replica

    I am not sure why I was even bothering with touching the speakers at all. Since April I have done at least another dozen 13” battery replacements. You simply do not need to touch the speakers for any reason, and, in fact, touching introduces unnecessary risk.

    This whole procedure of replacing the battery may easily be done in about 20 minutes.

    davelarose - Replica

  7. Afferra con un paio di pinzette la staffa del cavo della scheda I/O e rimuovila dal MacBook.
    • Afferra con un paio di pinzette la staffa del cavo della scheda I/O e rimuovila dal MacBook.

    Totally unnecessary step…

    davelarose - Replica

  8. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della scheda in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Accertati di far leva solo sul cavo della scheda I/O e non sullo zoccolino stesso, altrimenti potresti danneggiare la scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della scheda in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Accertati di far leva solo sul cavo della scheda I/O e non sullo zoccolino stesso, altrimenti potresti danneggiare la scheda logica.

    This step is not required.

    davelarose - Replica

  9. Solleva in alto il terminale dal lato della scheda logica del cavo della scheda I/O; quindi ripiegalo in una posizione che non dia fastidio. Per evitare danni al cavo, ripiegalo solo all'altezza della curva presente nel terminale dal lato della scheda I/O.
    • Solleva in alto il terminale dal lato della scheda logica del cavo della scheda I/O; quindi ripiegalo in una posizione che non dia fastidio.

    • Per evitare danni al cavo, ripiegalo solo all'altezza della curva presente nel terminale dal lato della scheda I/O.

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - Replica

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - Replica

    Besser: Das Kabel kann leicht an beiden Enden gelöst und dann herausgenommen werden. Dann ist es nicht im Weg.

    Karsten Franke - Replica

    Don’t perform this step. I have zero idea why it is in this guide…

    davelarose - Replica

  10. Infila con delicatezza la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante destro vicino al suo connettore e sollevano dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Infila con delicatezza la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante destro vicino al suo connettore e sollevano dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
    • Infila con delicatezza la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante destro vicino al suo connettore e sollevano dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - Replica

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - Replica

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - Replica

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Replica

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - Replica

    Barak is absolutely correct.

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP…

    davelarose - Replica

  11. Stacca con delicatezza il cavo dell'altoparlante destro dal case superiore. Stacca con delicatezza il cavo dell'altoparlante destro dal case superiore. Stacca con delicatezza il cavo dell'altoparlante destro dal case superiore.
    • Stacca con delicatezza il cavo dell'altoparlante destro dal case superiore.

    Why? Why does this step exist?

    Fiddling with these small cables is a poor idea if not required…

    davelarose - Replica

  12. Rimuovi le viti seguenti, che fissano l'altoparlante destro al case superiore:
    • Rimuovi le viti seguenti, che fissano l'altoparlante destro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,7 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,5 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    No. Just no! Another unneeded step…

    davelarose - Replica

  13. Solleva l'altoparlante destro dal lato del terminale del cavo e allontanalo dal case. Solleva l'altoparlante destro dal lato del terminale del cavo e allontanalo dal case. Solleva l'altoparlante destro dal lato del terminale del cavo e allontanalo dal case.
    • Solleva l'altoparlante destro dal lato del terminale del cavo e allontanalo dal case.

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - Replica

    Very clear step by step tutorial as usual. I removed both of my MBP 2013 speakers and it was just fine. My laptop sounds like the first day now (with genuine used speakers) Thanks?

    pticrounchi@orange.fr - Replica

    Unless you are replacing the speakers, DO NOT do this step, you are risking damage without reason…

    davelarose - Replica

  14. Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante sinistro vicino al suo connettore e sollevalo dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante sinistro vicino al suo connettore e sollevalo dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
    • Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante sinistro vicino al suo connettore e sollevalo dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Replica

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Replica

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Replica

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Replica

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - Replica

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - Replica

  15. Rimuovi le viti seguenti, che fissano l'altoparlante sinistro al case superiore:
    • Rimuovi le viti seguenti, che fissano l'altoparlante sinistro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,7 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,5 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - Replica

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - Replica

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - Replica

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - Replica

  16. Solleva l'angolo dell'altoparlante destro e fallo scorrere attorno alla batteria per rimuoverlo dal case superiore. Stai attento a non  far impigliare il cavo dell'altoparlante nella sede della vite presente sul lato del case. Stai attento a non  far impigliare il cavo dell'altoparlante nella sede della vite presente sul lato del case.
    • Solleva l'angolo dell'altoparlante destro e fallo scorrere attorno alla batteria per rimuoverlo dal case superiore.

    • Stai attento a non far impigliare il cavo dell'altoparlante nella sede della vite presente sul lato del case.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - Replica

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - Replica

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - Replica

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - Replica

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - Replica

  17. Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener. Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.
    • Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener.

    • Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.

    • Per forni a microonde con piatto rotante: assicurati che il piatto giri liberamente. Se l'iOpener si incastrasse da qualche parte, potrebbe surriscaldarsi e bruciare.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Replica

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Replica

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Replica

  18. Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.
    • Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.

    • Se durante la riparazione l'iOpener si raffredda, scaldalo di nuovo nel microonde per 30 secondi.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante l'operazione. Il surriscaldamento può far bruciare l'iOpener.

    • Non toccare mai l'iOpener se appare gonfio.

    • Se l'iOpener è ancora troppo caldo in mezzo per poterlo toccare, continua a utilizzarlo mentre attendi che si raffreddi un po' prima di scaldarlo di nuovo. Un iOpener riscaldato correttamente dovrebbe rimanere caldo fino a 10 minuti.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Replica

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Replica

  19. Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.
    • Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.

    • L'iOpener sarà davvero caldissimo, perciò fai attenzione quando lo maneggi. Usa una presina da forno, se necessario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Replica

  20. Rimuovi le cinque viti Torx T5 da 3,7 mm che fissano la batteria al case superiore.
    • Rimuovi le cinque viti Torx T5 da 3,7 mm che fissano la batteria al case superiore.

    • La tua specifica unità potrebbe avere una sola vite di fissaggio della scheda elettronica della batteria al frame.

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - Replica

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - Replica

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - Replica

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - Replica

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - Replica

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - Replica

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - Replica

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - Replica

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - Replica

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - Replica

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - Replica

    My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.

    ellamama - Replica

    Mine only had the far right screw. Since the new battery came with another batch of ridiculous adhesive I didn’t bother fretting about not having the rest of the screws

    Tony Le - Replica

    some models have one screw on the upper right corner of the battery cells (battery circuit board), the rest are rubber feet that doesn’t hold anything. no need to replace them if your replacement battery doesn’t come with them.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - Replica

  21. Il liquido antiadesivo contenuto nel tuo kit di sostituzione iFixit può rovinare il rivestimento antiriflesso del display del tuo MacBook Pro.
    • Il liquido antiadesivo contenuto nel tuo kit di sostituzione iFixit può rovinare il rivestimento antiriflesso del display del tuo MacBook Pro.

    • Per proteggere il display, disponi un foglio di stagnola tra il display e la tastiera e lascialo in questa posizione mentre lavori.

  22. Se hai un kit batterie iFixit con l'antiadesivo liquido, è ora di prepararti a usarlo. In alternativa, se stai usando il metodo dell'iOpener caldo, salta i seguenti tre passi.
    • Se hai un kit batterie iFixit con l'antiadesivo liquido, è ora di prepararti a usarlo.

    • In alternativa, se stai usando il metodo dell'iOpener caldo, salta i seguenti tre passi.

    • L'antiadesivo iFixit contiene acetone, un debole irritante per la pelle e gli occhi.

    • Indossa occhiali protettivi quando maneggi e applichi l'antiadesivo (gli occhiali protettivi sono inclusi nel tuo kit).

    • Non indossare lenti a contatto senza gli occhiali protettivi.

    • Anche i guanti protettivi sono inclusi nel tuo kit. Se ti preoccupa un'eventuale irritazione alla pelle, mettiti subito i guanti.

  23. Tira via il cappuccio nero di gomma dalla tua bottiglia di antiadesivo. Ruota il tappo erogatore per allentarlo o rimuoverlo prima di tagliare la punta del beccuccio. In questo modo la bottiglia non sarà più sigillata e si annullerà ogni differenza di pressione tra interno ed esterno. Se salterai questo passo, l'antiadesivo potrebbe schizzare fuori inaspettatamente mentre tagli il beccuccio.
    • Tira via il cappuccio nero di gomma dalla tua bottiglia di antiadesivo.

    • Ruota il tappo erogatore per allentarlo o rimuoverlo prima di tagliare la punta del beccuccio.

    • In questo modo la bottiglia non sarà più sigillata e si annullerà ogni differenza di pressione tra interno ed esterno. Se salterai questo passo, l'antiadesivo potrebbe schizzare fuori inaspettatamente mentre tagli il beccuccio.

    • Usa delle forbici per tagliare la punta ancora sigillata dell'applicatore.

    • Effettuare il taglio vicino all'estremità più stretta ti darà un controllo migliore perché potrai applicare l'antiadesivo in piccole quantità.

    • Riavvita e chiudi bene il tappo erogatore prima di continuare.

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - Replica

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - Replica

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - Replica

    Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

  24. Applica uniformemente delle piccole gocce di antiadesivo sotto il bordo in rilievo della cella della batteria più a destra.
    • Applica uniformemente delle piccole gocce di antiadesivo sotto il bordo in rilievo della cella della batteria più a destra.

    • Non è necessario usare molto antiadesivo. La bottiglietta contiene oltre due volte la quantità di solvente necessario per rimuovere tutte le celle della batteria.

    • Prima di procedere con il passo successivo, aspetta 2-3 minuti per dare tempo all'antiadesivo di penetrare sotto la cella della batteria.

    • Usa dell'altro antiadesivo se necessario, ma non più di qualche goccia alla volta. Se ne usi troppo, l'antiadesivo potrebbe raggiungere il retro della tastiera che potrebbe danneggiarsi.

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - Replica

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    Thanks for the awesome suggestion!

    Tony Le -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - Replica

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - Replica

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

    Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.

    pedroparracho -

    Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.

    Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.

    For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.

    After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).

    Tony Le - Replica

    This is the hardest part of the whole process, if you don’t have any of ifixit tools you can use a hair dryer. Apply heat on the cell (make sur you don’t apply too much heat), flip the laptop apply heat for 20 to 30s on the aluminum side just near the trackpad( depending on which cell you wanna pry open) and use a credit cart gently. this will do.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - Replica

    I used dental floss, but fishing line might be better. The floss kept breaking. I wound the floss around the special screwdrivers which helped with pulling it through. I used Goof Off to remove solvent AFTER I got the batteries out. It worked well. You can get Goof Off at any hardware type store.

    Thirtyeyes - Replica

  25. Se non hai un liquido antiadesivo, puoi usare un iOpener caldo per riscaldare e ammorbidire una sezione dell'adesivo che fissa la batteria al case superiore; quindi potrai procedere con delicatezza per staccarlo. Usa l'iOpener caldo per coprire metà delle celle della batteria più a destra.
    • Se non hai un liquido antiadesivo, puoi usare un iOpener caldo per riscaldare e ammorbidire una sezione dell'adesivo che fissa la batteria al case superiore; quindi potrai procedere con delicatezza per staccarlo.

    • Usa l'iOpener caldo per coprire metà delle celle della batteria più a destra.

    • Dopo circa un minuto riscalda di nuovo l'iOpener e disponilo in modo da coprire l'altra metà delle celle della batteria più a destra.

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - Replica

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - Replica

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - Replica

    I used a hot water bottle (for the body). Realized the one with the cloth cover was not doing anything, but had another plastic one. Poured boiling water in, sealed, and did 2-min at a time. A old airline loyalty card worked. Don’t use a credit card as it may deteriorate.

    Daniel - Replica

  26. Spingi una scheda di plastica tra la cella più a destra della batteria e il case superiore, tagliando l'adesivo che li tiene insieme. Nel corso di questa procedura, stai attento a non danneggiare nessuna cella della batteria con i tuoi attrezzi. Una batteria al litio-ioni danneggiata può far fuoriuscire sostanze chimiche pericolose e/o prendere fuoco. Usa soltanto attrezzi di apertura in plastica.
    • Spingi una scheda di plastica tra la cella più a destra della batteria e il case superiore, tagliando l'adesivo che li tiene insieme.

    • Nel corso di questa procedura, stai attento a non danneggiare nessuna cella della batteria con i tuoi attrezzi. Una batteria al litio-ioni danneggiata può far fuoriuscire sostanze chimiche pericolose e/o prendere fuoco. Usa soltanto attrezzi di apertura in plastica.

    • Usando il metodo dell'iOpener caldo, se incontri un'eccessiva resistenza dello staccare la batteria, fermati e usa di nuovo l'iOpener per riscaldare la sezione su cui stai lavorando.

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - Replica

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - Replica

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - Replica

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - Replica

    Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?

    martha - Replica

    A couple old credit cards should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    I have found that different techniques are needed for different parts of the job. The outermost two batteries on both sides can be removed by softening the adhesive as shown with the fluid. The batteries are in a shallow dish so there is less chance of the fluid running everywhere. Just apply sparingly. As Christopher Girke suggested, the middle two are best removed by applying the solvent to the edge of the card. Multiple applications are necessary but this avoids the fluid getting where it should not go. Also it is easier to push in from the sides, not the front as shown in the photo to avoid a lip on the underside of the trackpad.

    johnponter - Replica

  27. Usa la scheda di plastica per sollevare la cella della batteria più a destra dal case superiore. Usa la scheda di plastica per sollevare la cella della batteria più a destra dal case superiore.
    • Usa la scheda di plastica per sollevare la cella della batteria più a destra dal case superiore.

  28. Ripeti questa procedura con la cella della batteria adiacente: Applica una modesta quantità di antiadesivo sotto la cella della batteria e aspetta 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare e ammorbidire l'adesivo. In alternativa, scalda di nuovo questa sezione con il tuo iOpener se necessario.
    • Ripeti questa procedura con la cella della batteria adiacente:

    • Applica una modesta quantità di antiadesivo sotto la cella della batteria e aspetta 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare e ammorbidire l'adesivo.

    • In alternativa, scalda di nuovo questa sezione con il tuo iOpener se necessario.

    • Spingi una scheda di plastica per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella della batteria e il case superiore; fai leva sulla cella per staccare tutto l'adesivo.

  29. Lascia temporaneamente la tua scheda di plastica sotto le due celle della batteria più a destra per impedire che possano incollarsi di nuovo al case superiore. Se usi un iOpener, scaldalo e riapplicalo di nuovo, questa volta sulle celle della batteria più a sinistra. Anche questa volta, lascia l'iOpener in ciascuna posizione per circa un minuto, scaldandolo tra una fase all'altra, per riscaldare le due metà delle celle più a sinistra della batteria.
    • Lascia temporaneamente la tua scheda di plastica sotto le due celle della batteria più a destra per impedire che possano incollarsi di nuovo al case superiore.

    • Se usi un iOpener, scaldalo e riapplicalo di nuovo, questa volta sulle celle della batteria più a sinistra.

    • Anche questa volta, lascia l'iOpener in ciascuna posizione per circa un minuto, scaldandolo tra una fase all'altra, per riscaldare le due metà delle celle più a sinistra della batteria.

  30. Ripeti la procedura descritta in precedenza per separare dal case superiore le due celle della batteria più a sinistra. Ricordati di applicare una modesta quantità di antiadesivo per ognuna delle celle della batteria e di aspettare 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare e ammorbidire l'adesivo. Usa una seconda scheda di plastica per separare le due celle più a sinistra dal case superiore.
    • Ripeti la procedura descritta in precedenza per separare dal case superiore le due celle della batteria più a sinistra.

    • Ricordati di applicare una modesta quantità di antiadesivo per ognuna delle celle della batteria e di aspettare 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare e ammorbidire l'adesivo.

    • Usa una seconda scheda di plastica per separare le due celle più a sinistra dal case superiore.

  31. Lascia la seconda scheda nell'angolo tra le due celle di sinistra.
    • Lascia la seconda scheda nell'angolo tra le due celle di sinistra.

    • Nei passi successivi, puoi usare una terza scheda oppure la scheda dell'angolo destro. L'adesivo dell'angolo destro dovrebbe essere asciutto/freddo abbastanza per far sì che le celle possano essere tirate via di nuovo in caso di necessità.

  32. Per staccare l'adesivo che fissa le due celle centrali rimaste, applica qualche altra goccia di antiadesivo liquido sotto ogni cella (oppure usa l'iOpener). Applica l'antiadesivo con parsimonia, dato che sotto quest'area della batteria c'è il trackpad.
    • Per staccare l'adesivo che fissa le due celle centrali rimaste, applica qualche altra goccia di antiadesivo liquido sotto ogni cella (oppure usa l'iOpener).

    • Applica l'antiadesivo con parsimonia, dato che sotto quest'area della batteria c'è il trackpad.

    • Può essere utile sollevare di qualche centimetro un lato del tuo MacBook Pro per far affluire l'antiadesivo nella direzione corretta, sotto le celle della batteria. Puoi usare un grosso libro o un blocco di è sparso per tenere sollevato un lato del tuo MacBook Pro mentre lavori.

    • Spingi una scheda di plastica per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella centrale sinistra della batteria e il case superiore per separare la cella.

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - Replica

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - Replica

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - Replica

    To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!

    Christopher Girke - Replica

    I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.

    Tamás Kende - Replica

    Be careful here when you slide any tool under the central cells to pry them open, you could slide it under a sliver plate covering the trackpad electronics, maker sure that your tool is really sliding between the cells and this silver plate, I almost torn this apart, luckily id did not damage the trackpad, dome people reported that it did really damage the trackpad.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - Replica

    1. flatten the battery before you begin the dismantling

    2. remove the 4 side cells completely by cutting the cables with sharp pliers

    3. Apply adhesive remover around the middle batteries, one side at a time

    4. Use the cards to cut the adhesive from around one side at a time , adding more adhesive remover . Do NOT lift the batteries

    5. profit

    Middle batteries have black glue strips strong as welding. lifting the batteries without dissolving these will damage the touch pad back plate it's a thin metal plate

    Charm Abeywardana - Replica

    I used the floss method without solvent. It came apart relatively easily.

    Thirtyeyes - Replica

  33. Tira fuori la scheda e inseriscila per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella centrale destra della batteria e il case superiore per separare la cella. Tira fuori la scheda e inseriscila per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella centrale destra della batteria e il case superiore per separare la cella.
    • Tira fuori la scheda e inseriscila per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella centrale destra della batteria e il case superiore per separare la cella.

  34. A questo punto le celle esterne dovrebbero essere libere e dovresti trovare un po' di resistenza solo dalle celle centrali.  Se non è questo il caso, torna ai passi precedenti e stacca completamente dal case superiore le quattro celle più esterne. Fai leva sotto le due celle centrali per staccare l'ultimo adesivo rimasto e solleva la batteria dal dispositivo.
    • A questo punto le celle esterne dovrebbero essere libere e dovresti trovare un po' di resistenza solo dalle celle centrali. Se non è questo il caso, torna ai passi precedenti e stacca completamente dal case superiore le quattro celle più esterne.

    • Fai leva sotto le due celle centrali per staccare l'ultimo adesivo rimasto e solleva la batteria dal dispositivo.

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - Replica

    Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

  35. Rimuovi la batteria. Prima di installare la tua nuova batteria, rimuovi tutto il vecchio adesivo dal case del MacBook Pro.
    • Rimuovi la batteria.

    • Prima di installare la tua nuova batteria, rimuovi tutto il vecchio adesivo dal case del MacBook Pro.

    • Con un po' di fortuna, dovresti riuscire un po' alla volta a staccare ogni striscia di adesivo con le dita.

    • In caso contrario, bagna ogni striscia di adesivo con un po' di antiadesivo per 2-3 minuti e poi grattala via con uno strumento di plastica. Può essere richiesto abbastanza lavoro, quindi cerca di avere pazienza.

    • Elimina ogni traccia dell'adesivo rimanente e lascia asciugare all'aria il tuo MacBook Pro per qualche minuto.

    • La batteria sostitutiva inclusa nel tuo kit iFixit è dotata di adesivo preinstallato. Controlla bene la posizione e l'allineamento della batteria prima di staccare la pellicola che copre l'adesivo; quindi premi con decisione ogni cella. Se ci fossero ulteriori pellicole o nastri che non erano presenti sulla tua batteria originale, rimuovili ora.

    • Calibra la nuova batteria appena installata: carica al 100% e tieni in carica almeno altre 2 ore. Stacca il cavo e usa il laptop per farlo scaricare. All'avviso di batteria in esaurimento, salva il lavoro corrente e tieni acceso il MacBook finché non si iberna perché scarico. Aspetta almeno altre 5 ore, poi carica senza interruzioni fino al 100%.

    • Se noti qualsiasi comportamento insolito o problemi dopo aver installato la tua batteria nuova, potrebbe essere necessario resettare l'SMC (System Management Controller) del tuo MacBook Pro.

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - Replica

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - Replica

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.

    I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.

    Ralph Begleiter - Replica

    Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.

    ellamama - Replica

    I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance

    Ronald Francis - Replica

    Removing the adhesive strips of the original battery was relatively easy - compared to removing the strips of the iFixit battery… what took me 1.5 hours. All because the first battery delivered was defective so I had to repeat the replacement. Thanks for the free and quick replacement battery - fair attitude, but that did not saved my time…

    Andras - Replica

    Always amazing when it all works at the end. Combined the battery repair with the fan replacement. Looks like the battery I got from the Bay is an OEM from SMC. All went well. Now I just need to remove the display gate anti-glare with some Listerine or the W5 towelettes from LIDL (if in Europe) and the machine is like new. ;-) Thanks fixit and everyone who contributed and shared their comments.

    Daniel - Replica

    If you have only 1 screw and the 4 rubber grommets, be care about the plastic trim piece on the battery be sure it can be seated properly before removing the adhesive. When you do permanently seat the battery be sure the two bottom holes (where the grommets or screws should be) are properly within the case or you won’t be able to seal the back. I had a bit of an issue but it was easily solved by forcing the plastic opening piece into the case with a screw driver tip. I left the battery without the 4 rubber grommets as they seemed impossible to seat into the holes on the plastic piece of the battery. So far, so good.

    Thirtyeyes - Replica

  36. Appoggia un iOpener scaldato sulla copertura del trackpad per ammorbidire l'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore.
    • Appoggia un iOpener scaldato sulla copertura del trackpad per ammorbidire l'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore.

    • Stai attento a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante la riparazione. Aspetta sempre almeno due minuti prima di riscaldarlo.

  37. Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per fare leva attentamente sulla copertura del trackpad per separarla dal case superiore. Procedi lentamente per evitare di piegare visibilmente la copertura. Procedi lentamente per evitare di piegare visibilmente la copertura.
    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per fare leva attentamente sulla copertura del trackpad per separarla dal case superiore.

    • Procedi lentamente per evitare di piegare visibilmente la copertura.

    This adhesive was extremely strong for me and took quite a while to soften up (longer than batteries). I ended up using my wife's blow dryer after the heat pad struggled with it. Just take your time.

    Vince Cipriani - Replica

  38. Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per rimuovere lentamente ed attentamente la copertura del trackpad dal case superiore. Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per rimuovere lentamente ed attentamente la copertura del trackpad dal case superiore. Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per rimuovere lentamente ed attentamente la copertura del trackpad dal case superiore.
    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per rimuovere lentamente ed attentamente la copertura del trackpad dal case superiore.

  39. Tira delicatamente la copertura verso l'alto per rimuoverla. Tira delicatamente la copertura verso l'alto per rimuoverla.
    • Tira delicatamente la copertura verso l'alto per rimuoverla.

  40. Se necessario, rimuovi il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo del trackpad.
    • Se necessario, rimuovi il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo del trackpad.

  41. Usa la punta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF. Usa la punta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF.

    Qualifier: I have not actually been inside my laptop case yet to do this but judging from the photo in the next step (43) where the cable is being pulled out and the “release position” of the lock is flipped up in that photo…..I’d suggest the two photos in this step (42) should be reversed if one reads from left to right and assumes the photo on the left and what it represents is a step preceding the photo after it. It appears the first photo (left photo) shows the unlocked position with the locking mechanism “flipped into the UP position”. The second photo shows the cable holder in the locked position. Trying to remove (pull) the cable with the lock flipped down may result in a bad ending.

    Timothy Hardman - Replica

    Timothy - The pictures are correct and in the correct order.

    Step 41 is lifting the tape covering the latch that’s part of the ribbon cable, Step 42 is lifting the latch from down __ to up | on the logic board connector, Step 43 is now the removal of the ribbon cable from the left from the connector slot (look again the latch is still up).

    Dan -

  42. Sfila il cavo del trackpad dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
    • Sfila il cavo del trackpad dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    Don't use tweezers for this (???) Pull straight, starting gently and a little firmer until it gives. 2014 doesn't have the retaining tabs

    Mmm ttt - Replica

    Point of clarification. The cable stays flat and is pulled towards the trackpad. Don’t pull it upwards toward you.

    quinnlawton - Replica

  43. Infila la parte piatta di uno spudger sotto l'apertura nel case superiore dove passa il cavo del trackpad. Fai leva delicatamente per separare il cavo a nastro del trackpad dall'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore.
    • Infila la parte piatta di uno spudger sotto l'apertura nel case superiore dove passa il cavo del trackpad.

    • Fai leva delicatamente per separare il cavo a nastro del trackpad dall'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore.

  44. Svita le seguenti viti che fissano le staffe del trackpad al trackpad stesso e al case superiore.
    • Svita le seguenti viti che fissano le staffe del trackpad al trackpad stesso e al case superiore.

    • Quattro viti Torx T5 da 2,2 mm

    • Quattro viti Torx T5 da 1,7 mm

    It’s not necessary to remove the 2.2mm screws.

    Terrence Kovacs - Replica

    No it’s not required, it all depends on the alignment needed with the new unit.

    Dan -

  45. Usa le pinzette per rimuovere le due staffe di montaggio del trackpad dal case superiore. Usa le pinzette per rimuovere le due staffe di montaggio del trackpad dal case superiore.
    • Usa le pinzette per rimuovere le due staffe di montaggio del trackpad dal case superiore.

  46. Per evitare di graffiare lo schermo, apri il portatile a circa 90° e appoggialo su un lato. Fai passare attentamente il cavo a nastro del trackpad attraverso l'apertura nel case superiore.
    • Per evitare di graffiare lo schermo, apri il portatile a circa 90° e appoggialo su un lato.

    • Fai passare attentamente il cavo a nastro del trackpad attraverso l'apertura nel case superiore.

    • Questo passaggio spingerà il trackpad fuori dal suo alloggio nel case superiore.

    • Guida il trackpad fuori dal case superiore con l'altra mano, in modo che non cada.

  47. Tira delicatamente via il trackpad dal case superiore, stando attento a non strappare il cavo a nastro. Tira delicatamente via il trackpad dal case superiore, stando attento a non strappare il cavo a nastro. Tira delicatamente via il trackpad dal case superiore, stando attento a non strappare il cavo a nastro.
    • Tira delicatamente via il trackpad dal case superiore, stando attento a non strappare il cavo a nastro.

    Regarding the re-assembly once the trackpad is back in place, be careful when re-fitting the batteries; the adhesive which takes so long to separate may not hold the batteries to the chassis upon re-fitting. It may be necessary to use thin double-sided foam tape to ensure that the batteries are held firmly in place once again so that vibration does not cause the connections between the batteries to fail.

    MarkB - Replica

    If your new trackpad won't fit into place, loosen the screw at the bottom, center of the case (you can see it in the step 36 pic). Don't forget to tighten it back up. This screw affects the amount of play and click in the mouse, so fine tune it until the pad clicks to your liking.

    Vince Cipriani - Replica

    Make sure you have a good fettle with the trackpad before sticking the battery back in, the brackets in 42 and 43 can move slightly and affect the position and function of the trackpad. Ensure you are happy with it all and fasten it in place before you think about the battery. Took me a while to get it sitting just right and true.

    Phil Taylor - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Кроме видео, см. инструкцию по Upper Case.

1. Сложно снять аккумулятор. Я не грел, а просовывал кусочки астролона (лавсановая плёнка) толщиной 0,5 мм. Осторожно - я чуть не порвал черное защитное покрытие аккумов с нижней стороны, поэтому острые края инструмента притупите наждачной бумагой. И не используйте пленку на всю ширину - подлезть под одну половинку аккума гораздо легче, чем под весь.

2. Делайте, как на видео. Но! Не забудьте кроме клавы купить саморезы для крепления новой клавы и такие же кусачки, как на видео.

Amir Valiev - Replica

извлечь остаток заклепки непросто. пока научился, загубил десяток из 102. хорошо, что догадался дёргать в разных местах, поэтому клавиатура держится . для успешного извлечения:

2.1. беритесь под самый корень.

2.2. у меня получилось дергать только передней частью кусачек - но попробуйте сами.

2.3. нужно чуть стиснуть заклепку - чтобы кусачки её чуть "надкусили".

2.4. дергайте как на видео. так как даже с устойчивым навыком выдернутся не все заклепки, старайтесь дергать в разных местах.

Amir Valiev - Replica

But this isn’t the keyboard…

Keith Kam - Replica

Great tutorial. The keyboard replacement is in that video.

Jim Yang - Replica

Keyboard replacement on any retina macbook pro is a bit involved. You must take everything down to the bearbone, You can check this video out for detailed explanation on how it’s done https://youtu.be/_yfRgs1VXKo

hussein0101 - Replica

Thank you for the help on this one. The rivets were a pain. But I was able to buy screws to take the place of them. Very tedious repair for sure. But so worth it!

KeithMelara - Replica

Where do you guys buy your replacement keyboards? Any recommendations?

Caleb Steinborn - Replica

You can get replacement keyboards from Beetstech or Louis Rossmann’s store. I’d recommend one of the two because they both consistently provide quality parts. I’ve bought keyboards from random ebay sellers and almost every time I’ve received keyboards with keys that sit crooked. Never have that problem with Beetstech or Rossmann.

Louis doesn’t sell the keyboards with backlights or the necessary replacement screws, but Beetstech does, so I usually buy those. You don’t have to replace the backlight, but for the slight price increase I just figure why not?

Adam Baldwin - Replica

Do you have the remaining steps for keyboard replacement? The title indicates it’s for a keyboard replacement but it appears to be for a Trackpad replacement.

Taylorman22 - Replica

Looks like a major project. My KB is gone, but battery and trackpad OK; what do I use for re-attaching them?

Martin Sorensen - Replica

Just completed this using the video. It took a looooong time.

Be particularly careful with the rivets on the four corners and try to pull them out whole when you are pulling out the old keyboard. There is very little room to get a pair of pliers or flush dikes in there to get them out if you just snap off the head of the rivet. Had to drill out a couple of them.

edc - Replica

I have two questions: 1- Do I have to remove the trackpad to replace the keyboard? 2- Do I need to purchase the sticker that goes under the keyboard in addition to the keyboard and screws if water got under the keys?

ivanhoyt - Replica

Nicely documented, but thgis is not about exchanging the keyboard (much! mor work involved) but only the trackpad. Header should be changes…

Georg Preyss - Replica

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