Introduzione
Il "pulsante" home dell'iPhone 7 in realtà è un sensore a stato solido che include anche la funzionalità Touch ID (riconoscimento impronta digitale).
La maggior parte dei pulsanti home sostitutivi non funzionerà, quindi verifica la cosa con cura prima di iniziare la tua riparazione. Il pulsante home originale del tuo iPhone è accoppiato in modo univoco in fabbrica alla scheda logica; e senza il processo di calibrazione proprietaria di Apple, perfino il pulsante home originale di un altro iPhone non funzionerà. Per riparare un pulsante home guasto, dovresti installare uno specifico pulsante home universale. Nota che questa parte sostitutiva funziona solo come pulsante; il Touch ID non funzionerà.
Se stai solo sostituendo lo schermo, puoi usare questa guida per rimuovere con attenzione il tuo pulsante home originale funzionante e trasferirlo sul nuovo schermo, conservando tutte le funzionalità, compreso il Touch ID.
Nel corso di questa procedura, per evitare di sforzare o strappare i cavi dello schermo sarebbe meglio staccare completamente il gruppo display prima di iniziare a intervenire sul sensore home/Touch ID. Se però pensi di potercela fare senza problemi, puoi saltare la sezione relativa al gruppo display di questa guida e andare direttamente alla sezione sul sensore home/Touch ID.
Cosa ti serve
-
-
Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.
-
Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm nella parte inferiore del tuo iPhone.
-
-
-
Usa un asciugacapelli o prepara un iOpener e applica calore per circa un minuto per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.
¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?
Sesenta segundos
Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)
If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?
Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?
Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger
Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?
The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.
Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?
After heating opening it stoped working.
Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com
It definitely can. That happened to me.
I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.
Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!
For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.
You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!
🤣 You made my day Adrian, thank you!
Jicey -
I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.
I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.
I have changed now Iphone 5 Battery, IPhone 7 front camera & another iPhone 7 rear camera. The instructions along with the comments are really important. Be patient & read them several times. By using your heated gel pack 3-4 times for 2 mins or so on the bottom end near the touch button you will be able to pry with your razor & then you can use your spudger. Thanks for this great guide.
I would DEFINITELY recommend to NOT use direct heat (hair drier, etc.) on the phone. I used a hair drier to help heat the phone and ended up damaging the home button (would not work after the replacement and I did not touch or take apart the home button). Note that a damaged home button cannot be replaced so I will end up using the alternative “screen” home button going forward with my phone. Instead I would recommend preheating something else (example - metal / coins / ceramic / beads / glass stones / cookware / etc..) to a warm-to hot (but not burning hot) touch and place the heated items on the IPHONE (or visa versa) to heat and soften the adhesive.
I placed the iOpener heat bag over the bottom of the phone, disregarding the home button. Now it doesn’t work. All subsequent procedures went well as I was very careful. I should have read all the posts! Protect the home button from direct heat. Fortunately, now using the Assistive Touch feature is better than buying a new phone or replacing the home button.
It’s better to choose an iPhone back case to cover and protect your phone from bumps and scratches. Choosing premium cases is the best option for long-term safety. If you need ***iPhone 7 phone cases*** then you can check them out!
-
-
-
Applica una ventosa alla metà inferiore del gruppo display, appena sopra il pulsante home.
A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)
Last comment works well. Thank you !
Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.
Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.
I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.
Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!
Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?
The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.
Agreed, the iFixit suction cup was useless. I borrowed one from the sponge holder in my kitchen sink. It lacked a grip so I held it with needle-nose pliers, resting them on a bit of wood to keep pressure off the phone.
ephraim -
I am not getting this open at all! Why an I provided with tools that can't help me ??♀️
I couldn’t get the bottom to lift first, but the left side did, so I started there and worked my way around the horn.
-
-
-
Tira la ventosa fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.
-
Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nella fessura.
This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.
I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.
mcr4u2 -
I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)
Cristef -
Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain
Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful
This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/
Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.
Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.
I second Jessica’s January 8 comment. I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part. I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough). The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection. I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted) was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup. From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture). I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to). Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.
This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.
use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger
The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)
Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.
Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.
It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!
The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)
Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.
I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.
This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.
Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.
When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.
I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.
This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.
The third hand was essential.
I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.
Lucas -
It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!
I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.
I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.
Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles
seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted) was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup. From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”
I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.
I finally got the screen up but shattered it in the process. I was replacing it anyway but if the screen is not what you’re replacing, take EXTEME caution. The suction cup and spudger were not working for me to get it started. Thanks to the comments, I used a razor blade and a heating pad and went back and forth, back and forth, between heat and pressure from the blade. Once you get a gap, the spudger works great and the screen comes up easy.
More feedback on this “guide”:
“Pull up on the suction cup.” What does this mean? If I just pull up on the suction cup (with a real one that actually sticks) it just lifts the phone off the table. You need a description of what you are pulling against. Do I try to hold the frame of the phone? Do I try to stick something in the lightning port to pull against? Do I try and get something against the edge of the rounded metal on the edge of the phone (this usually just slips off). What am I pulling against???
I found a combination of iOpener, suction cup and razor blade, all applied at the same time, worked for me and I didn't need to use a hairdryer.
Dumbly, I thought that with the Spudger I'd had to hold the phone from the charging hole while pulling the screen. .. In the end I inserted the two ends of the tweezers(bends the tweezers and may damage it) in the screwdriver holes and pushed the screen out upwards so that I could insert the sharp side of a knife.
This was my first iPhone battery replacement and I can say this was the hardest part.
Be wise, go for a hair dryer and heat up the phone bottom (long enough). iOpener did not work at all for me. Heat up, use the suction cup and push the opening pick under the frame as soon as you see movement along the frame.
Then use the spudger to wander around the whole frame (leaving the pick where it is). Done!
One little corner at a time. Don't try to do the whole bottom at once. I heated with a hair dryer. Applied the suction cup to one side and worked the corner till it started to give. Took a minute or two. Use a magnifying glass to help see when it's starting to come loose. It's not hard to do.
-
-
-
Fai scorrere lo spudger verso sinistra lungo il lato inferiore dell'iPhone.
-
Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il display e il case posteriore.
Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.
I used a hairdryer and a razor
The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.
I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.
-
-
-
Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro dell'iPhone, iniziando dalla parte inferiore e spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa.
Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.
-
-
-
Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nell'angolo inferiore destro del dispositivo.
-
Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.
-
Fai scorrere l'estremità piatta dello spudger sul lato destro del telefono per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
-
-
-
Tira verso l'alto la ventosa per sollevare il display e aprire l'iPhone.
do not pull up pull sideways it will brake
Made this mistake
Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.
-
-
-
Solleva la piccola appendice della ventosa per rimuovere lo strumento dal pannello anteriore.
-
-
-
-
Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura lungo il lato superiore dell'iPhone, tra il case posteriore e il pannello anteriore, per rompere la parte restante dell'adesivo che tiene in posizione lo schermo.
The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.
This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.
jvalaamo -
-
-
-
Tira lievemente in orizzontale il gruppo display per allontanarlo dalla parte superiore del telefono per scollegare le clip che tengono bloccato lo schermo al case posteriore.
-
Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato destro, come se fosse la copertina posteriore di un libro.
same dude im such a freak lol omg haha
Are there replacements ribbons?
Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?
I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws
Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!
Albert -
Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-
I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.
This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.
I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.
Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.
I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.
no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.
thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.
I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.
Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…
Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !
-
-
-
Rimuovi le seguenti viti con testa tri-wing Y000 dalla staffa inferiore del connettore:
-
Tre viti da 1,2 mm
-
Una vite da 2,4 mm
These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck
What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck
i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.
What if I stripped a screw what do I do??
Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?
It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.
Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.
For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.
What do I do if I Stripped one of them?
Can’t get them removed what to do ?
Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…
You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/
Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.
Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.
I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small. use a magnetised screwdriver, or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol
Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid
Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.
To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws. This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.
try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.
-
-
-
Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del connettore.
my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off
This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.
So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.
Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?
Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…
I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.
Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.
Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.
-
-
-
Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?
Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.
I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.
The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.
It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.
In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.
Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.
It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....
Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.
after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level
-
-
-
In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.
-
Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per staccare i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.
To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.
MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.
Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(
I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?
Thanks for advice!
this point is the most important in the whole manual.
Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking
I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.
My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.
Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.
I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.
If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..
It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.
I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement
I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(
Viktoria -
There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.
When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.
I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!
Viktoria -
thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.
-
-
-
Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.
Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)
It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.
If you’re having trouble removing these screws;
the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.
If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.
If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).
If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.
there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.
I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.
I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..
Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!
^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.
the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet
The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(
Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.
I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.
PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.
the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?
You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.
Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O
I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work
I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.
The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…
That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!
and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well
PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!
-
-
-
Stacca il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.
Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.
Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.
@victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!
This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.
After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.
The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?
The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?
-
-
-
Rimuovi il gruppo display.
When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).
Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?
@victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)
This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?
@trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?
If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!
If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.
-
-
-
Rimuovi le quattro viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa sopra il sensore home/Touch ID:
-
Una vite da 1,1 mm
-
Tre viti da 1,3 mm
No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.
The link that was mentioned takes you to the heat shield for iphone 7 plus. There’s a slight difference in the two models.
To clarify: the regular/smaller iPhone 7 has no screw on the far left there. The 7 Plus does, but there’s no need to touch it unless you’re removing the large metal shield covering the back of the display. The procedure in the guide is correct.
So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out
That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!
I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.
This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.
The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.
I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)
My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws
My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.
My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.
If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .
Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?
Thanks in Advance.
This worked for me take a Stanley blade and saw a grove across the screw with the edge ofcourse then heat the home button with hair dryer for a couple of minutes take the blade and press it into the groove you scored and turn it
Paul -
Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?
over the bracket
I magically used an X-acto knife tip to lift the edges of the home button screw to loosen it, and then turned it slightly with the X-acto blade tip in the screw slot to get it started, then the 000 screwdriver could finish it.
I can’t stress how important it is to not overtighten the one on the button. I undertightened the center one at first in fear, and then tightened it more when I realized the button was loose. It ended up ruining the home button :(
I was completely unable to get the screw directly over the homebutton off. I definitely stripped it some. Here’s some tips!
1. If you are trying to unscrew and it skips instead of locking in—STOP. Apply more pressure, and then try again. Keep doing this until it comes out. If you continue turning without doing anything, you’ll strip the head of the screw and end up in a way worse situation.
2. If your screw is stripped, first try putting a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw to fill the gap. Duct tape has worked for many people as well.
3. If you can’t get the screw directly above the home button off of the home button, I found this video that shows how to remove the home button without unscrewing the screw!! Bend the protective plate up 90° on both sides of the home button so the bent plate now fits through the home button hole. Then you can continue to
the next steps and remove the home button with the plate still attached to it.
Don’t know if I did something wrong, but the home button no longer works. I’ll see if I can get someone to repair it.
Found a software workaround, go to General > Accessibility > Assistive Touch. Now you don’t need the home button to work to use the phone
I enabled assistive touch before making a go on this part. Screws are very small, easy to strip, and difficult to find if they go flying when you;re just trying to seat them properly.
VERY SMART!! I would not have thought of doing that. Depending on what my local repair guy charges I may be doing this myself, but in all honestly if the home button does not work on the new screen I'm getting another phone
I’ve never been so stressed at trying to assemble something, O_O I should really get some glasses. I just reassembled all the screws, tried to not screw too tight, but how does one know? Maybe they could include “only twist 3 times, or 2…and maybe provide an ocular. Those screws are very very very tiny, and yes - be careful, because if you attach the right screw first, the left one can be catapulted if not secured and just “set” waiting to screw in. Thankful for the magnetism, but also had to find myself holding the screw in place while securing or else it would just attach to the screwdriver and come out. I'm TOTALLY looking forward to turning this ON after all assembled based on all the disheartened comments…..oy. Here. We. Go.
There’s a small square rubber piece that has a screw hole in it. does anyone know if it goes over the home button? I missed it when I took it apart, but then , there it is on my table.
It slips over one of the posts that the pentalobe screws in step 1 go through. Like a mitten over a hand. It’s incredibly hard to see where the slit is in that tiny rubber piece though.
What do you do if you overtighten the screws? I assume that is why my home button won't click
How can you tell if you’ve over-tightened the screws or if the home button isn’t working for some other reason (other physical damage, shorted out, etc.)?
Die Schraube auf dem Home-Button ist wohl von Apple gewollt schwer zu entfernen. Man sollte sie daher zuerst herausdrehen; denn, ist die Unterlage unterm iPhone nicht hart genug und man drückt jetzt mit Kraft über den Schraubendreher auf die Schraube, wird der Home-Button hinausgedrückt, dabei verbiegt sich die Halterung und besonders schlimm, das eine untere Flachbandkabel reißt ab und der Home-Button ist unbrauchbar.
So from those that do many repairs what do you think is the percentage of repairs in which the home button doesn't work after moving it to a new screen? 10%? 30%? 70%?
-
-
-
Stacca, spingendolo a destra, la spina del pulsante home per disconnetterlo dal suo zoccolino sul cavo di interconnessione.
I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.
Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.
Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.
Klaus M -
That worked perfectly, thank you!
I did it. :-( i broke it
Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.
Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.
Yes I had to fiddle with it for about 20mins to get it to finally click in place, just don’t apply too much pressure it doesn’t take much, if the alignment of the connector is right you should feel it snap into place. connect the cables together before you screw it in place, also raise the assembly up off the small locator pin until after you get the connectors together. Hope this helps
my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?
so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?
Thanks a lot!
Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.
This helped me SO much. Watch it before removing home button. Around 4:56ish
Thank you so much!
That’s a very good view. Thank you!
Yup, this video helped me know what people were talking about. It worked and I didn’t rip or break anything…so far XD
Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 21. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this connector ?
I’m having a really hard time reconnecting the two together. Any advice?
I used the tweezers in step 21 to separate this connector. I squeezed the tweezers shut then put the flat edge of the points between the connector and slowly released the tweezers. The connector separated really easy.
This tip worked a treat. Thanks!
any tips on reconnecting the connector. I assume it needs to be snuggly fit back in. I can’t seem to connect the two agin. Is it supposed to ‘snap’ together or should I use an adhesive?
Figured it out. I just needed to make sure I aligned them better when feeding the home button backthrough
rwalz -
I found it quite difficult to reconnect the home button cable connector. After putting everything back together, my iPhone said there was an error with the TouchID. I disassembled the phone again, pried off the home button connector and found that I had not lined it up properly with the mated part. I had to push the connector upwards (toward the top of the phone) in order for it to seat properly. It almost felt unnatural to push the connector so far up to make it seat properly. I tested the phone again before reassembling and everything worked fine. If you break the cable on this home button piece, you can only buy a generic home button (about $8 here on Amazon) that will allow you to use the button for navigation but it will not work for TouchID (you will have to use your phone permanently unlocked or use a numeric code to unlock). The original home button is specifically mapped to your phone and cannot be replaced.
Yeah, I couldn't snap it back together either and after giving up a few times, probably the third time I came back to it, about the 10th time trying to line it up, the cable just totally snapped off....
-
-
-
Fai leva delicatamente per alzare il cavo di interconnessione sottostante e spostalo lontano dal cavo del pulsante home.
-
Se il connettore non si stacca facilmente, usa un asciugacapelli o un iOpener per scaldare e ammorbidire l'adesivo che fissa il connettore, quindi prova di nuovo.
Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.
If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.
Just one tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol or it will reach the lcd screen.
Heat is absolutely vital during this step. Care should be taken and you should work very slowly. A new playing card will be useful in separating the ribbon from the device, using heat periodically to soften the adhesive as you go along. The ribbon cable changes size between the connector and the button, creating a weak area that can begin to rip if stressed. Use a card flat against the frame to slowly separate the cable from the frame.
The isopropyl alcohol did the trick for me; all it takes is for you to dip the prying tool in a bit of the alcohol and the rest is magic. I did not have to apply heat and I was able to remove the home button from the original screen to transfer it to the new screen without any issue! Be careful, go slow, don't force things, and when it doubt view and review the video and instructions!
Alcohol or Ifixit adhesive remover is the trick. I used the tweezers to dip in the remover and just a smidgen is all you need, start on the connecter side and work towards the button. - On reassembly, I kept the screen protector on and just peeled it up enough to slide the button in, then used it to hold the button in place while I finished up.
-
-
-
Capovolgi il gruppo display. Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applica lo sul bordo retro del display per circa 90 secondi per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.
If you don’t have that heating tool, a hair straightener n a T-shirt worked just fine for me
I did with a heat gun instead. I found the i opener not helpful.
I need just 1 min with my hair drier, then the screen starts to pop and crackle
-
-
-
Usa con delicatezza una levetta di apertura per separare l'adesivo che fissa il cavo del sensore home/Touch ID al retro del pannello display.
It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.
Thanks for the tip! worked great!
Do you know what I need to do if I damage the cable?
Yes playing card is what I used too, worked very well. Just heat it up(I used a 3D printer bed for 30 seconds at 80°). Just go slow from right to left.
Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.
Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!
I don’t know why this step does not include a major warning about it being by far the most challanging step. I started before reading the comments and most likely screwed my home button with it,
I don’t know if it is a broken cable or if it was too much heat later…but I scratched the cable on the first try with the plectrum. It took lots of heat to soften the adhesive and then it worked WAY better for me to start removing the connector from the near side of the home button. And not, as shown, on the far side.
Wish I had known that before - the homebutton ist not working anymore now (and it’s not the screws).
Robert -
Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.
Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better
Okay the home button is connected, as touch id works, but I can’t get any motion out of it. I backed off the screws, but that didn’t help. What else can I try?
The home button on an iPhone 7 Plus doesn’t move at all. Anything you feel during normal operation is a small vibration from the Taptic Engine that tricks your brain into thinking the button is moving.
Salve, vorrei un vostro aiuto, ho un problema con il tasto home (il tasto è originale preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituito il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e legge l’impronta digitale) il tasto invece no (il click per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie!
This was a very difficult step… I found using heat wasn't removing the adhesive for my home button. Found a video online that recommended using a playing card and a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on the corner and slowly sliding it under. I was able to finally remove my home button using this tip.
Heat via hairdryer applied for a solid 3 minutes worked for me.
Thank the stars that I looked at these comments. I managed to do this and transferred the home button successfully. The pick is not good enough to do this job. The suggestion to use a new playing card helped. I also found that if you use a single edged razor to ply apart the bezel from the screen then when you apply heat with the heat gun the bezel will melt and bend a bit out of shape allowing you to use the playing card to lift the home button strip away from the bezel. The adhesive on the old home button strip was enough to stick it to the new screen bezel without having to buy new adhesive.
Thanks for the tip on the new playing card and rubbing some isopropyl alcohol on the corner of the card! I also peeled back the metal plate on the broken screen to get that bracket out of the way for better access to the cable. After applying heat and slowly and steadily working up the cable with the card, the home button popped out in proper working order.
Given that the old screen was already broken. I cut away the part of the screen where the button is, this gave easy access to the side of the ribbon cable which made it simple to gently pry it up and separate it from the plastic case.
After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. All tips about direct heat, new playing card, bending back the metal bracket on the broken screen, screen protector to hold the replaced home button in place … perfect. Slow and patient, heat and almost no pressurel! Thank you all!
-
-
-
Rimuovi il gruppo sensore home/Touch ID facendolo passare dal lato anteriore del display.
True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.
OHMYGOD! Thank. you for this! After ruining *three* displays while inserting the home button from the back, I finally saw this comment…
In my defense I had no internet access through some of these replacements… but really, I’m sorry to say, this merits a MAJOR warning on the guide.
Cam F -
Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.
My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button
This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete
This guide is meant for the ifixit parts, not other third-party screens.
Since I bought the replacement screen from iFixit and it has NO camera and speaker part anymore, the replacement of those parts should also be in this guide.
And, the replacement of those parts (camera, speaker, true light sensor, and aprox. sensor) is the most difficult!Hannes -
James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.
No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!
@ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).
@jeffsuovanen If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).
Jeff Suovanen - 06/11/2019
Jeff Suoven-I bought a new home button from Ifixit for this phone (along with a digitizer assembly) and it doesn’t work.
One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.
You can see the gaskets in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...
Here they are near the new screen: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14FwpSB...
Thank you! I was wondering what those things did, and even lost one but later was lucky enough to find it.
I saw one mention about those small gaskets in a guide and now I cannot find it. I was able to slip them off the old screen and onto the new one. I would think this is an important step to help seal those holes for the waterproofing. They should edit these screen replacement guides to include this step. Thanks for mentioning it in this guide.
WARNING: When you reassemble the phone, the little screws… You have to be VERY careful to not put any pressure on them until they’re really well seated, otherwise you will flick the screws into another dimension… they’re so small they literally just vanish out of existence lol. I ended up losing two of the smallest screws, one per bracket, and everything seems fine so far.
The glue/seal is also nearly impossible to get right. Just mash it down into the general area that it belongs if it gets stretched/twisted and can’t go in perfectly. Some glue is better than no glue, just assume that any repaired iPhone isn’t water resistant at all.
The biggest issue I'm having now Is replacing the gasket that goes around the home button. The original one got stretched out and the new on is too thick to seat correctly into the hole without being exposed and potentially coming off of the home button after a while.
I ordered a replacement screen from ifixit, but contrary to the description it arrived without the ancillary parts attached. So I had to transfer the front camera & sensor assembly, and the lcd shield. In case anyone else needs to do this, be sure when transferring the lcd shield that the screen cable sits properly underneath it (ie as far up towards the top of the screen as possible) or else the rectangular block on the cable will foul the loudspeaker.
If this happens, the bottom right corner of the screen will stand very slightly proud of the case, and you will end up with a pressure spot on the screen.
Well I transferred all the parts properly, but the front camera wasn’t working. Reseating it fixed the camera but then when I closed the screen it cracked. I backed out to the old screen which is held together by tape, but miraculously everything including the camera and Touch ID is fine. Better luck next time.
I did not realize that the much cheaper 3rd party replacement I purchased also required the further steps of removing and replacing front facing camera and speaker. I was pretty bummed initially as it looked intense…however i totally pushed through using another ifixit guide and saved $50. My only advice to a first timer would be get a $15 heat gun or the bean bag microwave thing, the hardest part is getting it open.
The cable is more than fragile and immediately broke right off my phone! Mine is no good anymore, but I wanted to warn everyone else just one more time…BE SO SUPER GENTLE and PATIENT…and even then, I’m not totally convinced that it is possible!! I was doing so well, right up to the point when I got to the one part that only Apple can fix and that will totally ruin your repair!!! SHAT!!!
Good Luck all!!!
The ribbon in steps 16 and 17, when reconnecting and sealing the phone, is really something to be careful with. I feel like I smooshed it in, and while the phone works after the replacement, I feel like the right side of the phone, near the power button, isn’t quite set in 100 properly. I wish I would have taken better note of how it looked prior to removing the broken screen. Hopefully, it will settle in better once the adhesive sets. At this point, however, the fact that I got through the process with what I would call 99% success is a win for me. Just be careful of the aforementioned ribbon when setting the new screen on.
The home bottom sensor cable does not plugin into the new screen, if put it back to old screen it plugin nicely and directly , but on the new screen it does not stay, it does not plug in the new screen, what to do?
The comments suggest the home button is well stuck down.
Does the home button need adhesive to stick it back onto the new screen? If so, what do you use/where do you get it?
Thanks
Very disappointed. Front camera and home button not working. And overheating too. I would like a refund Ifixit.
Esta incompleto, falta el desmontaje de los elementos de la parte superior de la pantalla
Did this back in 2021 after using i fix it tutorial on replacing battery i accidentally cracked screen when trying to pry it up with suction device and using spudger which felt wasn’t best tool for the job.
Maybe i didn’t heat up device enough to loosen adhesive enough, who knows it was the first time doing this.
Screen alone much easier than a battery replacement, especially second time around after cracking screen had more awareness of job.
They make good tutorials here always like fixing thins myself then paying more to have someone else do it.
-
Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi descritti in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Vai sulla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi descritti in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Vai sulla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
Annulla: non ho completato questa guida.
Altre 110 persone hanno completato questa guida.
Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:
100%
Questi traduttori ci stanno aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›
8 Commenti
I read through this guide for fun and I must say it's %#*@ good,It's by far the most informative and it's full of great never mentioned tips too ensure you don't cause damage,I rarely see any precautions outside of the basics,like remove the battery connection first and we all know what can happen when you don't so GREAT WRITE UP
Just to be clear. I understand that the Touch ID won’t work if the logic board is not paired (the same as before). But are you also saying that an original home button won’t even click on another logic board? As in, if I take my whole screen and put into another phone, the click won’t work either?
Yes. On the iPhone 5s - 6s you lost touch ID functionality but on The 7 and 8 series, you lose all home button functionality as well.
I found another article on the ifixit website saying it’s absolutely NOT possible to replace the iPhone 7 home button:
https://www.ifixit.com/News/9020/no-fix-...
What’s the story?
I have iphone 7..my home button is working but touch id isn’t responding…why????
I have I phone 7 ..I change the display of my phone..but the home button and fingerprint is not working yet ..why
sooooooooooooo good bro i’m so excited
This is not true, as I have replaced a few. The click function does work it's the finger print that does not register. Sorry I know I am a couple years late but for others who have not stumbled across this post yet.
Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?
Cooper Chase - Replica
Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.
rcheing - Replica
Can’t get the display front
Bernadette Pfeifer - Replica
From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.
ballina5ny - Replica
I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.
Mark Lieberman - Replica
in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)
Jan-Tijn Oppermann -
3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.
Ahmad Vaziri -
the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks
Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Replica
The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.
Bram Driesen -
Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.
Jon Moylan - Replica
If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.
Ryan Huebert - Replica
Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction
Cynthia Lamb - Replica
I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?
Richard - Replica
Do the screws come out in total?
YVES THEUGELS - Replica
They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.
Anthony Falabella -
Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??
YVES THEUGELS - Replica
I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.
Anthony Scaminaci - Replica
At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss - Replica
I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.
I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.
Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss - Replica
I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.
I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.
The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?
H K - Replica