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Introduzione

Per rimuovere lo schermo di un iMac versione fine 2012 occorre tagliare l'adesivo con un attrezzo di apertura specifico per iMac. Dopo che avrai completato la riparazione, dorai seguire la nostra guida alle strisce adesive per eliminare il vecchio adesivo e sostituirlo con delle nuove strisce.

  1. Iniziando dalla sinistra del display, vicino al tasto di accensione, inserisci iMac Opening Tool nello spazio tra il vetro e la scocca posteriore. Il perno dell'iMac Opening Tool eviterà che la rotella entri troppo all'interno. Se userai un attrezzo diverso, ineriscilo non più di 9,5mm nel display. Potresti rovinare i cavi dell'antenna e causare gravi danni. Il perno dell'iMac Opening Tool eviterà che la rotella entri troppo all'interno. Se userai un attrezzo diverso, ineriscilo non più di 9,5mm nel display. Potresti rovinare i cavi dell'antenna e causare gravi danni.
    • Iniziando dalla sinistra del display, vicino al tasto di accensione, inserisci iMac Opening Tool nello spazio tra il vetro e la scocca posteriore.

    • Il perno dell'iMac Opening Tool eviterà che la rotella entri troppo all'interno. Se userai un attrezzo diverso, ineriscilo non più di 9,5mm nel display. Potresti rovinare i cavi dell'antenna e causare gravi danni.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Replica

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Replica

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Replica

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Replica

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - Replica

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - Replica

  2. Usa l'attrezzo come una rotella tagliapizza - fallo girare nella fessura per taglierà la parte centrale dell'adesivo in schiuma. Assicurati di spingere l'impugnatura dietro la rotella. Se tirassi, la rotella potrebbe uscire dal manico. Fai scorrere l'attrezzo lungo la parte sinistra del display.
    • Usa l'attrezzo come una rotella tagliapizza - fallo girare nella fessura per taglierà la parte centrale dell'adesivo in schiuma.

    • Assicurati di spingere l'impugnatura dietro la rotella. Se tirassi, la rotella potrebbe uscire dal manico.

    • Fai scorrere l'attrezzo lungo la parte sinistra del display.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Replica

  3. Continua a far scorrere la rotella lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro. Continua a far scorrere la rotella lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro. Continua a far scorrere la rotella lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro.
    • Continua a far scorrere la rotella lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro.

  4. Taglia l'adesivo lungo la parte superiore sinistra del display. Taglia l'adesivo lungo la parte superiore sinistra del display.
    • Taglia l'adesivo lungo la parte superiore sinistra del display.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

  5. Continua lungo la aprte superiore del display. Puoi far scorrere la rotella avanti e indietro per assicurarti di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.
    • Continua lungo la aprte superiore del display.

    • Puoi far scorrere la rotella avanti e indietro per assicurarti di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.

  6. Spingi l'attrezzo intorno all'angolo superiore destro del display. Spingi l'attrezzo intorno all'angolo superiore destro del display. Spingi l'attrezzo intorno all'angolo superiore destro del display.
    • Spingi l'attrezzo intorno all'angolo superiore destro del display.

  7. Fai scorrere la rotella lungo il lato destro del display. Fai scorrere la rotella lungo il lato destro del display.
    • Fai scorrere la rotella lungo il lato destro del display.

  8. Finisci di spingere lo strumento di apertura fino alla parte bassa del lato destro del display. A questo punto potresti far scorrere l'attrezzo avanti e indietro per assicurarti di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.
    • Finisci di spingere lo strumento di apertura fino alla parte bassa del lato destro del display.

    • A questo punto potresti far scorrere l'attrezzo avanti e indietro per assicurarti di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.

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  10. Quando lo strumento di apertura avrà fatto la maggior parte del lavoro, il display sarà ancora leggermente attaccato al case. Servirà una scheda di plastica per staccare l'adesivo rimanente. Posiziona l'iMac a faccia in su sopra un tavolo. Partendo dall'angolo superiore destro, inserisci una scheda di plastica tra il display e il telaio.
    • Quando lo strumento di apertura avrà fatto la maggior parte del lavoro, il display sarà ancora leggermente attaccato al case. Servirà una scheda di plastica per staccare l'adesivo rimanente.

    • Posiziona l'iMac a faccia in su sopra un tavolo.

    • Partendo dall'angolo superiore destro, inserisci una scheda di plastica tra il display e il telaio.

    • Fai attenzione a non inserire la scheda più di 9,5 mm per non danneggiare i componenti interni.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Replica

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Replica

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Replica

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - Replica

  11. Torci delicatamente la scheda di plastica per allargare la fessura tra il display e la scocca e taglia l'adesivo rimanente vicino agli angoli. Usare troppa forza potrebbe rompere il vetro. Lavora con attenzione e non provare ad allargare la fessura oltre 6 mm circa.
    • Torci delicatamente la scheda di plastica per allargare la fessura tra il display e la scocca e taglia l'adesivo rimanente vicino agli angoli.

    • Usare troppa forza potrebbe rompere il vetro. Lavora con attenzione e non provare ad allargare la fessura oltre 6 mm circa.

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

  12. In questo passo, assicurati di interrompere il taglio prima della fotocamera iSight o potresti danneggiarla. Fai scorrere la scheda verso il centro del display per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente. Fai scorrere la scheda verso il centro del display per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente.
    • In questo passo, assicurati di interrompere il taglio prima della fotocamera iSight o potresti danneggiarla.

    • Fai scorrere la scheda verso il centro del display per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Replica

  13. Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo e lasciala lì per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi. Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo e lasciala lì per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi.
    • Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo e lasciala lì per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi.

  14. Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro. Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro. Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro.
    • Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro.

  15. Torci delicatamente la scheda, allargando lievemente la fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca. Come per l'altro lato, procedi lentamente per dar tempo all'adesivo di staccarsi e fai attenzione a non sollecitare troppo il vetro.
    • Torci delicatamente la scheda, allargando lievemente la fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca.

    • Come per l'altro lato, procedi lentamente per dar tempo all'adesivo di staccarsi e fai attenzione a non sollecitare troppo il vetro.

  16. Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermati anche questa volta prima della fotocamera iSight. Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermati anche questa volta prima della fotocamera iSight. Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermati anche questa volta prima della fotocamera iSight.
    • Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermati anche questa volta prima della fotocamera iSight.

  17. Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo superiore sinistro. Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo superiore sinistro.
    • Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo superiore sinistro.

  18. Solleva il display solo di pochi centimetri - è ancora collegato all'iMac dai cavi dati e alimentazione. Con le schede inserite come mostrato vicino agli angoli, torci delicatamente le schede stesse per allargare la fessura tra display e scocca. Se c'è ancora qualche punto che sembra incollato e non vuole separarsi, smetti di torcere le schede e usane una per tagliare l'adesivo in quel punto.
    • Solleva il display solo di pochi centimetri - è ancora collegato all'iMac dai cavi dati e alimentazione.

    • Con le schede inserite come mostrato vicino agli angoli, torci delicatamente le schede stesse per allargare la fessura tra display e scocca.

    • Se c'è ancora qualche punto che sembra incollato e non vuole separarsi, smetti di torcere le schede e usane una per tagliare l'adesivo in quel punto.

    • Comincia a sollevare dalla scocca la parte superiore dello schermo.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Replica

  19. Mentre tieni lo schermo con una mano, usa l'altra per scollegare il cavo di alimentazione del display. Solleva il display quanto basta per raggiungere i contatti ma non troppo per evitare di sollecitare i cavi e i connettori (circa 20 cm).
    • Mentre tieni lo schermo con una mano, usa l'altra per scollegare il cavo di alimentazione del display.

    • Solleva il display quanto basta per raggiungere i contatti ma non troppo per evitare di sollecitare i cavi e i connettori (circa 20 cm).

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Replica

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Replica

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Replica

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - Replica

  20. Solleva la piastra metallica che assicura il cavo dati del display. Scollega il cavo dati dello schermo. Questa è una connessione delicata che può rompersi facilmente. Assicurati di estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display direttamente dal suo zoccolo, tirandolo verso parte superiore dell'iMac.
    • Solleva la piastra metallica che assicura il cavo dati del display.

    • Scollega il cavo dati dello schermo.

    • Questa è una connessione delicata che può rompersi facilmente. Assicurati di estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display direttamente dal suo zoccolo, tirandolo verso parte superiore dell'iMac.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Replica

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Replica

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Replica

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Replica

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Replica

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Replica

  21. Solleva il display in posizione quasi verticale. A questo punto ci sarà sempre una striscia di adesivo nella parte inferiore del display che lo terrà incollato alla scocca come una cerniera. Puoi allentare questo adesivo muovendo il display su e giù per alcune volte.
    • Solleva il display in posizione quasi verticale.

    • A questo punto ci sarà sempre una striscia di adesivo nella parte inferiore del display che lo terrà incollato alla scocca come una cerniera. Puoi allentare questo adesivo muovendo il display su e giù per alcune volte.

    • Rimuovi più adesivo possibile afferrandolo agli angoli e tirandolo o arrotolandolo in direzione del centro.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Replica

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Replica

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Replica

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Replica

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Replica

  22. Se necessario, puoi usare una scheda di plastica per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente. Attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualunque punto di saldatura esposto sul retro dell'alimentatore (riquadro rosso). Attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualunque punto di saldatura esposto sul retro dell'alimentatore (riquadro rosso).
    • Se necessario, puoi usare una scheda di plastica per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente.

    • Attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualunque punto di saldatura esposto sul retro dell'alimentatore (riquadro rosso).

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Replica

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Replica

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Replica

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Replica

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Replica

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - Replica

  23. Fai attenzione a maneggiare il display - è grande, pesante e fatto di vetro. Il display ha i bordi fragili. Evita di sollevarlo dagli angoli. Solleva il display dalla scocca e rimuovilo dall'iMac. Appoggia il display faccia in giù su una superficie piana e morbida. Potrebbe essere necessario sollevare lentamente lo schermo da una parte per staccare l'adesivo rimanente.
    • Fai attenzione a maneggiare il display - è grande, pesante e fatto di vetro. Il display ha i bordi fragili. Evita di sollevarlo dagli angoli.

    • Solleva il display dalla scocca e rimuovilo dall'iMac. Appoggia il display faccia in giù su una superficie piana e morbida.

    • Potrebbe essere necessario sollevare lentamente lo schermo da una parte per staccare l'adesivo rimanente.

    • Dopo che l'adesivo è stato tagliato, non può essere riutilizzato per riattaccare il display. segui questa guida quando la tua riparazione sarà completa per sostituire le strisce adesive e assicurare il display alla scocca.

  24. Se stai sostituendo il pannello display, dovrai trasferire i componenti aggiuntivi dal vecchio al nuovo pannello. Confronta il retro del vechio display con il ricambio. Controlla tutti i cavi, sensori e i cuscinetti ammortizzatori che mancano al nuovo display.
    • Se stai sostituendo il pannello display, dovrai trasferire i componenti aggiuntivi dal vecchio al nuovo pannello. Confronta il retro del vechio display con il ricambio. Controlla tutti i cavi, sensori e i cuscinetti ammortizzatori che mancano al nuovo display.

    • Se c'è un cavo sotto un nastro adesivo, tira via sempre il nastro adesivo prima di tutto.

    • Se il cavo è incollato al telaio, usa un iOpener riscaldato o un asciugacapelli per ammorbidire la colla. Dopo potrai inserire un plettro sotto il cavo per liberarlo. Non tirare mai direttamente connettori delicati.

    • Fai scorrere un plettro sotto i cuscinetti ammortizzatori per separarli dal display e tirali via delicatamente. Potresti aver bisogno di nastro biadesivo per riattaccarli sul nuovo display.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Replica

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Replica

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Replica

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - Replica

    • Con il perno libero di muoversi, l'iMac sarà sbilanciato e sarà difficile lavorarci sopra. Le riparazioni possono essere fatte con l'iMac a faccia in giù, ma sono più veloci e facili con un cuneo di supporto per iMac.

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…thanks, but i have a crack on the screen as i was lifting it up. after reconnecting, there where lines on the display. what should i do.?

zeerowbadman - Replica

Something you may want to include for anyone replacing their damaged screen with a new one:

The replacement screens from LG more often DO NOT come with the thermal sensor attached, which means if you replace the screen without transferring the thermal sensor from the old LCD module, the computer will go absolutely insane, rendering it unusable.

This means re-opening the iMac and destroying the brand new adhesive strips. Because I had no idea this sensor existed, much panic ensued before I was forced to rip everything apart again and ultimately securing it closed with packing tape while I waited for the new adhesive strips to arrive in the mail....Not to mention the computer belongs to a client who lives 3 hours outside of the city.

placebomessiah - Replica

Sorry, could you help me? What thermal sensor?! Could you explain?

cristiano -

See the thin twisted black wire on the back of the display in this photo? The one that ends in a small piece of black tape:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

that piece of tape covers the tiny thermal sensor at the end of that wire. It is not included as part of the new display, and must be transferred from the old display or your computer will turn into a nightmare.

placebomessiah - Replica

But this is for model emc2546 too? And how you can transfer thermal sensor? Thank You!!!!

cristiano -

Where can I order the screen? There's a local shop nearby that offer to do the repairs for 550€ (!) and they claim it's because it's not just the glass but also the LCD that needs to be replaced. Is this true?

Robin Groenevelt - Replica

I got mine from a distributer in china

it's actually an LG screen. it's tricky to do business with them, because their english is very limited, but with patience, everything works out

placebomessiah - Replica

Hey placebomessiah, could you let me know where you bought it. I am in the same position and need the front display cause I cracked it while trying to open it to replace my hard drive .

Riki -

can you tell me where you bought it or how it is called?

Marc Klingelfuss -

Based on the pictures for the Late 2012 27" and Late 2014" 27" Retina screen replacements, the screens and connectors look identical. Has anyone tried to install a 5K Retina Display on a Late 2012 or Late 2013 27" iMac?

spencer - Replica

Seems like no one has tried it before but I am very curious to know as well. Since my Applecare has lapsed, I am considering getting my Late 2012 27" imac's screen to 5K Retina display too.

potzkie15 -

not possible. apple parts are proprietary. Just like you cant put a iPhone 6s screen on an iPhone 6, you can’t put a 5k screen on a 2012 non 5k model.

Hunter Berry -

Hi there, do you know where I can buy the Retina display 5K at reasonable price? The Apple asked me 900 euro to repair it!!

Dee - Replica

Hi, where can I buy the display?

yoisel1979 - Replica

be very careful when you cut the tape. I really advise you to buy the pizza cutter-style tool. With the plastic card I broke my screen :(

alex - Replica

Looks like I accidentally went too far in and have damaged the LCD, put it all back together and have lines.

** wish I had that mini pizza cutter **

Otherwise advice perfect!

Jon Regler - Replica

I have now ordered my second LCD screen from vendors on Amazon and both of these have arrived with the wrong connectors. My iMac is a (late 2013) model A1419 and even though the LCD replacements I ordered claim they were for an A1419, the internal plug-ins are different sizes than my iMac requires. My iMac requires a 6 wire connection on the right hand side flat cable connector, NOT the 12 wire connector that came on my LCD replacement screen and the connector in the middle of the screen is about 1/4" shorter than the connector on the LCD replacement screen. Can this be so hard??? Can anyone tell me how to make sure I order a replacement LCD screen with the right connectors for my iMac (late 2013) model. Thank you, Dave J.

Dave Jensen - Replica

I'm looking to add an SSD in my 27" iMac (Late 2012), but I have a problem. I bought this very cheaply secondhand as it has a small chip and crack in the glass on the top left corner. It doesn't affect the display whatsoever, so has never bothered me. However, I'm really worried what might happen if I have to remove it to put in the SSD. I can't work out from the pictures the depth of the glass that is attached to the screen. Am I going to cause terrible damage by going ahead with this? Here's a picture of the crack.

https://s27.postimg.org/ov9s69hlf/IMG_06...

markbart - Replica

Unfortunately, I had to reopen my iMac because of my stupid perfectionism! I had clued it not perfectly. So I had to cut the new tapes, what was more difficult than the original ones. After I had replaced the tapes I assembled everything back together and there it was, a very thin yellow line. I could have cried!

Now I’m wondering if there is a solution to repair it instead of replacing it.

Appreciate every hint. Thank you!

Marc Klingelfuss - Replica

Because the new tapes were much stronger than the original ones, I broke the opening tool. I continued with the cards and probably broke the screen because of that.

So don’t use the cards to open your screen!

Marc Klingelfuss -

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