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Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1

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  1. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Riscaldamento iOpener: passo 1, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Riscaldamento iOpener: passo 1, immagine 2 di 2
    • Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener.

    • Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.

    • Per forni a microonde con piatto rotante: assicurati che il piatto giri liberamente. Se l'iOpener si incastrasse da qualche parte, potrebbe surriscaldarsi e bruciare.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Replica

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Replica

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Replica

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Replica

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Replica

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Replica

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Replica

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Replica

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Replica

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Replica

  2. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.

    • Se durante la riparazione l'iOpener si raffredda, scaldalo di nuovo nel microonde per altri 30 secondi.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante l'operazione. Il surriscaldamento potrebbe far esplodere l'iOpener. Non scaldare sopra i 100°C (212°F)

    • Non toccare mai l'iOpener se appare gonfio.

    • Se l'iOpener è ancora troppo caldo in mezzo per poterlo toccare, continua a utilizzarlo mentre attendi che si raffreddi un po' prima di scaldarlo di nuovo. Un iOpener riscaldato correttamente dovrebbe rimanere caldo fino a 10 minuti.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Replica

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Replica

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Replica

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Replica

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Replica

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Replica

  3. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.

    • L'iOpener sarà davvero caldissimo, perciò fai attenzione quando lo maneggi. Usa una presina da forno, se necessario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Replica

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Replica

  4. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Metodo di riscaldamento alternativo per l'iOpener: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Metodo di riscaldamento alternativo per l'iOpener: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Se non hai un microonde, segui questo passo per scaldare il tuo iOpener in acqua bollente.

    • Riempi una pentola o una padella con abbastanza acqua per immergerci un iOpener.

    • Scalda l'acqua finché non bolle. Spegni il fuoco.

    • Posiziona l'iOpener nell'acqua calda per 2-3 minuti. Assicurati che l'iOpener sia completamente immerso nell'acqua.

    • Usa delle pinze per estrarre l'iOpener scaldato dall'acqua calda.

    • Asciuga accuratamente l'iOpener con un asciugamano.

    • L'iOpener sarà molto caldo, quindi fai attenzione e tienilo solo dalle linguette alle estremità.

    • Il tuo iOpener è pronto all'uso! Se devi scaldare di nuovo l'iOpener, scalda l'acqua fino all'ebollizione, spegni il fuoco e immergi l'iOpener in acqua per 2-3 minuti.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Replica

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max - Replica

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Replica

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Replica

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Replica

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Spegni l'Apple Watch: passo 5, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Spegni l'Apple Watch: passo 5, immagine 2 di 2
    • Prima di cominciare la riparazione, togli l'orologio dal caricabatterie e spegnilo completamente.

    • Se il tuo touchscreen è rotto e non ti permette di spegnere l'orologio, usa questo metodo alternativo.

  6. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Applica Calore: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • Prepara l'iOpener (o prendi un asciuga capelli o una pistola termica) e riscalda la parte frontale dell'orologio finché non sarà lievemente troppo calda per essere toccata.

    • Lascia l'iOpener sull'orologio per circa un minuto così da ammorbidire la colla che fissa lo schermo al case.

    • Potresti dover riscaldare nuovamente l'iOpener o doverlo muovere sulle parti dello schermo che si sono raffreddate per poter staccare lo schermo più facilmente.

    Save yourself some time—use a hair dryer. After multiple efforts with the iOpener, I could not get the screen to pop enough to pry it up. That’s when I grabbed a hair dryer and had it off within minutes.

    Patrick - Replica

    I heated it up with hair dryer for less then 2min and stick the blade in that was supplied with infix kit and popped right off.

    MIke C - Replica

    Does heating the screen not run the risk of damaging it like you can with a phone?

    Wade - Replica

  7. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Osserva tutti gli avvertimenti: passo 7, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Osserva tutti gli avvertimenti: passo 7, immagine 2 di 2
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Safety Glasses
    $3.19
    Compra
    • Siccome lo spazio tra lo schermo e il corpo è molto sottile, serve una lama affilata per separarle. Leggi attentamente i seguenti avvertimenti prima di procedere.

    • Proteggi le dita tenendole sempre lontane dalla lama. Se non ti senti sicuro, proteggi l'altra mano con un guanto spesso, come un guanto per giardinieri o in cuoio robusto.

    • Stai attento a non applicare troppa pressione, perché la lama potrebbe scivolare e tagliarti o rovinare l'orologio.

    • Indossa una protezione per gli occhi. La lama o il vetro potrebbero rompersi, facendo volare pezzi.

    In my instance, the problem started with the face/screen popping off because the battery swelled. So I didn’t need to heat the face and pry it off. I did heat it a bit in order to warm the residue adhesive on the edge of the face and the case frame and found it easier to scrap it off gently with the craft blade that came with the $39.21 battery replacement kit. If this is your issue, you can skip the prying up steps.

    jeb605 - Replica

    Same situation as jeb605 - my watch battery swelled and popped the screen off. Fortunately the force touch sensor did not debond from the watch. Thinking about just cleaning the back side of the screen and applying new adhesive. I used an alternate kit that did not come with the force touch sensor.

    Tom Karches - Replica

  8. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Solleva lo schermo: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Solleva lo schermo: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Solleva lo schermo: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usando una lama curva si riducono le probabilità di strisciare il case o rompere il vetro. Cerca di aprire con la sezione curva della lama e non con la punta o la parte piatta.

    • Posiziona la parte curva della lama nello spazio tra il vetro e il case nell'angolo inferiore dell'orologio, e premi verso il basso in maniera decisa nello spazio tra i due.

    • Stai molto attento a mantenere il controllo sulla lama: una volta aperta una fessura: se stai premendo troppo forte sulla lama questa potrebbe scivolare all'interno e tagliare la batteria.

    • La lama dovrebbe fare da cuneo e sollevare il vetro facendolo alzare leggermente dal case.

    • Quando il vetro si è sollevato, ruota delicatamente il coltello verso il basso per aprire ancora di più la fessura spingendo il vetro verso l'alto.

    It is not possible to separate the screen from the casing? I have heated this thing numerous times and the opening is way too small to get any type of blade, knife or other tool in between. Any suggestions???

    Paul - Replica

    Using a curved blade like the guide recommends, angle the blade straight down between the glass and the edge of the frame, mid-way along the bottom edge of the case. The metal of the case will flex *just a little bit*, allowing you to slowly rotate the blade so the cutting edge is now pointing towards the center of the watch instead of down towards your work surface. You may need to rock the blade back and forth, sort of massaging the curve into the seam between the glass and the metal before it works. And like they mention above, lots of heat. I used the heatpack they sell, put it in my toaster oven on 200. I started at 130, and went up in 20 degree increments until it worked.

    Pete -

    I've tried everything, heating it up until it's too hot to touch, pressing the knife in the gap straight down, at an angle, nothing seems to work. I've tried using all my arm strength and it still doesn't even enter the gap. Is the iFixit Jimmy not thin enough for the job?

    Kenneth - Replica

    It’s not. The Jimmy’s a great pry tool, but not a cutting blade and not sharp enough for this particular job. You want a curved razor like the guide suggests.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just to emphasise after quite a struggle - the blade absolutely matters!! I tried about 5 and almost gave up before the last one lifted the glass quite easily. Obviously, you want a thin blade! No, thinner than that!

    Mark Moore - Replica

    Plenty of heat helps this part. Also PLEASE PLEASE wear a glove. Nearly lost a finger thinking I was careful enough…

    jake - Replica

    Apple Watch Ceramic Series 3… Unable to crack open even with curved razor. The tolerances are extremely tight. Does anyone have any tips? Being ceramic, there is no flex at all.

    kurt - Replica

    I got hung up on this step for over an hour. The key for me was to keep the watch straps on! I initially took them off thinking it would be easier to work with the watch, but I guess just the little pressure I placed on the glass while trying to hold the watch and use the blade was enough to keep it in place. At first I thought I didn’t use enough heat and ended up reheating the iOpener a few times and applying it to the watch over the course of an hour. I put the top strap on, put it back flat on the table and held the watch secure with just the strap. I gave it another go with the blade and the screen instantly popped off. Also, be careful with the force you use on the blade… it seems with adequate heat, you don’t need to use that much (I ended up cutting through the Force Touch sensor and punctured the battery).

    phchang - Replica

    I would never use a knife like this to remove the screen. It’s way to wide to get in between the glass and body, without potentially breaking the glass. I use the Ultra Thin iFlex Opening Tool, sold by IFIXIT. Seriously. You won’t wanna use a fat blade like that after you take the iFlex for a test drive.

    Donald Fournier - Replica

    I used the rounded blade provided by iFixIt themselves as part of the Series 1 battery replacement kit and even that was wide enough that it scratched my case while trying to pry the screen up. Also I had to heat the iOpener like 3 or 4 times consecutively at 30s each and leave it on the screen for 5+ minutes before the screen would even budge. Heating for 30 sec and leaving on the screen for 1 minute was not even close to enough.

    Happily After Ever - Replica

    The display came off nicely after heating the iOpener a couple of times and wiggling the blade a bit. Now i have replaced the battery and the force touch sensor an thought I was ready for a dry run. So I did not peel off the final layer of film so that I can still remove the display. What I see is not good, the display is full of stipes and pixles in many colors. So, did I break the display (e.g. by heat) or does it have to be completely glued to the sensor in order to work?

    Jörg - Replica

    I got the answer. Unfortunately, I broke the display. A magifying glass revealed that I have scratched the cable where I inserted the blade. Replacing the display and I fixed it!

    Jörg -

    For anyone who’s having trouble getting the screen separated from the case, try leaving the iopener on the Watch for longer like around 4 or 5 minutes

    Eli Duffer - Replica

  9. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 9, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 9, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 9, immagine 3 di 3
    • Quando sei riuscito ad aprire abbastanza la fessura, inserisci la punta di un plettro di apertura sotto il vetro.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo inferiore per separare l'adesivo che tiene incollato lo schermo al case.

    • Stai attento a non inserire troppo in profondità il plettro di apertura. Bastano circa 3 mm, andando oltre potresti danneggiare dei cavi.

  10. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 10, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 10, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 10, immagine 3 di 3
    • Ruota il plettro dal lato del pulsante dell'orologio, facendo una lieve pressione per separare l'adesivo.

    • Ricordati di non inserire troppo il plettro: è più facile girare il plettro fino a inserire il lato lungo invece di trascinare la punta lungo il lato.

  11. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lavora con il plettro attorno all'angolo in alto a destra, poi ruotalo fino ad allinearlo al bordo superiore dello schermo.

  12. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 12, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 12, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 12, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continua a lavorare con il plettro lungo lo schermo, facendolo arrivare al bordo sinistro per rimuovere l'ultima parte di adesivo.

    • Lascia il plettro inserito per evitare che lo schermo si riattacchi.

  13. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 13, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 13, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 13, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lasciando il primo plettro inserito, usane un secondo per controllare che tutto l'adesivo sia separato girando lungo tutti i bordi dello schermo.

  14. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 14, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 14, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 14, immagine 3 di 3
    • Ci sono due cavi che collegano lo schermo all'interno dell'orologio, vicino al bordo sinistro in alto. Fai attenzione quando lo apri o potresti rovinare questi cavi.

    • Solleva leggermente il bordo destro dello schermo per liberarlo completamente dall'adesivo rimanente.

    • Solleva anche il bordo sinistro per liberarlo - ma non cercare di rimuovere lo schermo in quanto da quel lato sono ancora collegati i due cavi.

    My iwatch screen came lose. There are two strips loose I don’t know how or where they connect to. The watch still powers on and screen is not cracked. Can you advise how to get it back on again?

    dawnnstojkovic - Replica

  15. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Se riuscite a vedere lo strato superiore del sensore Force Touch attraverso l'adesivo del display, significa che i due strati del sensore sono separati e avrai bisogno di sostituirlo o ripararlo.

    • I kit iFixit per la sostituzione di schermo e batteria comprendono un sensore Force Touch. Se ne avete già uno, non irritatevi.

    • Lo strato superiore del sensore potrebbe essere attaccato alla parte inferiore dello schermo - se questo è il tuo caso, premilo verso il basso nuovamente per separarlo.

    Hi, thanks for the guide, nice work. I miss a picture of the natural opening of the screen, as the mentioned “Force Touch sensor slides” gets connected from the screen to the main body of the watch by a pair of very thin wires. None of these wires are seen in any of the pictures among this guide, which may lead novices to not pay enough attention to them, broke them accidentally, or not knowing what are them for. Picture on step 13 is absolutely impossible without removing the slides / thin wires of the force touch sensor in advance.

    Cheers

    Javier Enrique Díaz - Replica

    "If you can see the top layer of your Force Touch sensor" - How are we supposed to know whether we can see this or not? If one of your images shows us this then can you please point this out. Also, an image of what it should look like, without the problem would be good.

    Just discovered this article you have posted about replacing the Force Touch Sensor. After looking at the article I can now see your first image, above, is showing the separated Force Touch Sensor. Perhaps you should link to it in this article, so people can get a better idea of what it is and what it looks like:

    Sostituzione sensore Force Touch Apple Watch

    djones - Replica

    Same issue as djones I think. My watch was forced apart by an expanding battery and it came apart in such a way that the force touch sensor was still intact, connected to the watch back and still glued to the face. If I had an image showing the two connectors to the force touch sensor along the same side as the cables, I would have better understood and released the force touch sensor from the face before pulling the sensor away from it's connection in the base. Would have saved $20+ on buying a replacement sensor. Thank you for the documented process.

    Jeff Overbey - Replica

  16. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 16, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 16, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 16, immagine 3 di 3
    • Solleva lo schermo e spostalo verso destra facendo attenzione al cavo dati del display e al cavo del digitizer.

    I have 2 other small cables which are missing in your photos. Can you also explain what to do with them? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_6ngMn9...

    Pavel Guzenko - Replica

    Looks like you forced touch sensor is still attached to the screen and not the body. I’ve got the same issues. I’m going to try to use the plastic tool and heat to gently remove it from the screen and return it down to the body. You can see it in their fix of it… Sostituzione sensore Force Touch Apple Watch . Hope this helps.

    Andrew Marjamaa - Replica

    Be VERY careful when moving the display and attached 2 cables. While they are reasonably protected it is easy to over stress these cables, resulting in tearing of the mini ribbon cable attached at the base. Move the screen the absolute minimum required to get to the battery.

    Joe Smith - Replica

  17. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disponi il dispositivo su una superficie elevata, alta almeno 1 cm: una piccola scatola o il bordo di un libro andranno benissimo. Questo permetterà allo schermo di rimanere appeso verticalmente e dare migliore accesso alla batteria.

    • Fai attenzione a non far sbattere lo schermo o forzare i cavi mentre lavori.

    Your iFixit shipping box is a great size for this

    Joe Smith - Replica

    I would taped the watch to the elevated surface and rotated the surface around as I needed to

    Andy Campbell - Replica

    I could not get the face to swing out of the way as shown for fear of tearing the tab connectors. I let it “hang” as much as it would and had to work with it partly in the way through the entire process

    jeb605 - Replica

  18. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 18, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 18, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 18, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa le forbici per tagliare uno dei tuoi plettri di apertura all'incirca della stessa larghezza della batteria. Cerca di non lasciare spigoli affilati.

    • Inserisci il plettro modificato tra il lato destro della cassa e la batteria.

    • Usa una pressione costante e uniforme per rimuovere lentamente la batteria, staccandola dall'adesivo che la tiene incollata alla scheda madre.

    • Stai attento a non deformare o bucare la batteria.

    • Nel modello più grande (42 mm), è possibile estrarre accidentalmente la scheda madre sottostante. Inserisci lo strumento solo alla profondità necessaria raggiungere la parte bassa della batteria e non la scheda madre.

    • Se serve, applica una piccola quantità di alcool isopropilico concentrato (90% o più) attorno e sotto la batteria, in modo tale da indebolire l'adesivo.

    • Non tentare di rimuovere la batteria perché questa è ancora connessa.

    I tried removing the battery with the prying tool as instructed, but I think it may have slightly damaged the outer black plastic wrapping of the battery. Does this mean the battery is now damaged and needs to be replaced? Or is that just a cover around the battery and it doesn’t matter? I just don’t want any battery chemicals leaking out. Asking before I stick the screen back on the watch, I’ve done all the rest and it seems fine otherwise.

    Danae - Replica

    Hi Danae, the black plastic is technically just protective, but I would highly recommend replacing the battery. It’s possible there is additional unseen damage, and that plastic helps protect against swelling and normal wear of the battery inside the device.

    Sam Goldheart -

    I had to use the pry tool instead of the pick as the pick was not moving it. Was careful not to damage the battery but found it much easier to get movement and know exactly where I was prying with the pry tool.

    Joey Totherow - Replica

    Great tutorial but I’ve run into a problem changing the battery on my 42mm Original Series watch .

    Getting the battery off with the pick has proven impossible and I’m about to try using the isopropyl alcohol.

    • Can you provide any tips on how best to apply it, how long to give it to take effect, how often to apply etc. ?

    • Given how narrow the gap is, also how to ensure nothing gets damaged by the alcohol?

    • Is there any inherent risk in using the pry tool as Joey ended up doing?

    Thanks for any advice

    Allan Davidson - Replica

    Hey so I’m about to do a repair on one and noticed that it’s drains of battery making it pretty much safe to work with but do I really need to remove the battery? Like can’t I just remove the screen right there and now?

    Christopher Renteria - Replica

  19. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 19, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 19, immagine 2 di 2
    • Ruota la batteria in senso antiorario per esporre il suo connettore.

  20. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 20, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 20, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 20, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tieni la batteria sollevata e distanziata, per esporre il cavo e il connettore.

    • Usando uno strumento di apertura in plastica, fai leva contro la base della cassa per separare il connettore della batteria dal cavo del dispositivo.

    • Rimuovi la batteria dal dispositivo.

    • Se la batteria è visibilmente ammaccata o deformata, è più sicuro sostituirla. Per la miglior riuscita della riparazione, sostituite la batteria presente ogni volta che viene rimossa.

    Why should you remove the battery if you only need to replace the screen?...?

    Douglas Richey - Replica

    Douglas - this iFixit is for Apple Watch Battery Replacement - looks like you need to remove the screen to replace the battery...

    jimvaughn6 - Replica

    You will find that it is a good precautionary measure to disconnect the battery anytime you are repairing or replacing a screen as a short can occur when reconnecting the screen rendering it useless even if you have the unit turned off.

    Bryan Solo - Replica

    Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the touch sensor at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.

    rbolling - Replica

    Will removing the battery reset my icloud info? I have a guy who says he can do this, but i dont want him to run off with my watch after he replaces the battery…

    dreadmusicreview - Replica

    I did not disconnect the battery first. After replacing the screen, it didn’t work. I have to assume I created a short. The watch will still turn on and haptics are evident, but the display doesn’t work. Are there any further repairs to save my watch at this point?

    Scotty Beauchamp - Replica

    Yeah, sounds like you shorted part of the board. If it’s a Series 0 you’re working with, just go get a new one. Not worth fixing.

    Thomas Gehman -

    How do I insert the new battery???

    WebPoppy8 - Replica

    After replacing the battery I tried to turn it on and was presented with the red snake, I let it go for about an hour. When I checked it the red snake was gone, when I tried to turn it on it showed the Apple logo for about 4 seconds then went away. Is this normal, and if not what should I do?

    Donald Goodman - Replica

    I'm having a similar issue, did you manage to resolve it?

    Craig Lyon -

    Did you calibrate the battery? You need to fill it up completely and let it continue to charge for a few hours first.

    Grant Glass -

    Is it possible to place a battery in and charge/start the watch without the screen plugged in? I want to check integrity of the battery. I was thinking to put it on charge in a closed clear plastic container without the new screen on to see if the battery is good. I ‘really’ do not want to wait another 20 days for a battery replacement and the battery has no visual punctures, front looks good and the back where the adhesive is (or were, rather) is deflated and slightly ‘knobby’. I do not know if it is damage or just how it generally looks like or maybe it looks like so because of the old adhesive. It is not inflated or abnormally expanded. Anyone who knows about this? I used a hair dryer directly on the watch opened to loosen up the adhesive, is that a no-no?

    Philip Bromander - Replica

    The battery swelled up and popped off the screen, so went directly to Step 12. Luckily the adhesive below the Force Touch sensor was intact. Was able to complete the fix using the Adhesive Strip after replacing the battery. Works again! Thanks!

    Alex Danci - Replica

    Hi Alex, I’m having the same problem with my series one with the screen has popped off due to the battery swelling. Did you have any issues starting from step 12?

    Glenn -

    The apple logo keeps flashing on my series 1 watch, tried force restart with crown and side button but it still just keeps on flashing the apple logo, does anyone have any advise? Is the issue with the battery? Do I need to get a new battery? I change the screen as the screen was broken and used the existing battery.

    shafeeqrahaman - Replica

    yes the issue was with battery, swapped with a new battery and booted up fine.

    shafeeqrahaman -

    Having the same issue.good to hear it’s the battery and not me.

    Grant Glass -

    my watch was completely unloaded and stays in power saver mode when I charge. When I load in power saver mode the red light turns green for a few moments then switch back to red and no longer charge. When I remove the battery and put it back on the charger the charge starts again for a while and then stops. Do I need to change the battery? (apple watch serie 4 nike)

    IXO bf - Replica

    Where should I dispose of my old I watch battery?

    oconnor84 - Replica

    I replaced the screen and battery on mine. Now, it will not charge. Everything works fine, except charging. Any ideas why this may be?

    Donald Fournier - Replica

    My series one has two other cables/strings in the bottom left corner. Why do none of the pictures address this?

    thatgreatdeal - Replica

    My watch hasn’t recalibrated with the new battery. Even a couple of weeks later I still get premature low battery - it can take hours for the final 10% to run out after the first 90% only took 9 hours. I left it off the charger for multiple days after installation and yet I could still quickly wake it up by pressing the crown to see the time reported with red numbers, so I don’t think it fully ran out.

    Is there a way to force calibration? A Google search didn’t yield anything useful in the first several pages of results.

    Chris B - Replica

    Hy Chris,

    Same problem as you. Have you found a solution ?

    luc poli -

    If you’re lucky (?) the swollen battery will pop the screen right off for you. Anyone know where to get a replacement battery for a Series 0 watch?

    rmann - Replica

    Watching various videos and instructions from others, I found that there’s no need to remove the screen if your goal is to only swap out the battery.

    It’s meant to make it easier to clean off the old glue and install some double-sided adhesive tape but it was far more simpler to loop the tape around the screen with a pair of tweezers than to try to wrangle with the metal bracket securing the display and digitiser cable connectors.

    T-7000 glue can presumably be used in lieu of double-sided adhesive tape but it’s definitely more messier.

    Anyway, I was initially quite annoyed about my battery expanding and popping the screen off but very quickly got over it when I realised it was a simple $20 DIY fix. Guess I got lucky this time..

    osienna - Replica

    I’m just replacing the battery. The screen and eveything is fine. While i’ve done just that and the new battery seems secure and eveything, i don’t know which is the adhesive strip that i’d use to re-secure the watch face back onto the watch itself. I don’t need a sensor because the watch face is fine, i just need the adhesive strip and i’m not seeing anything labelled as such in the kit. Ive got 2 tesa stickers (?) and one 3M sensor thing with a little compotent thingy attached to it. Which is the double sided adhesive that goes around the base of the watch to secure the face to the watch?? I was lucky in that my old swollen battery pushed the face off so replacing the battery was fairly easy. Now i just need to secure the face to the body. Any advice?

    Anthony Rezendes - Replica

    Have followed the guide as best I could but when everything is reconnected the watch will not power up. Have disconnected and reconnected several times but still the same. Fear that is only going to do damage. Watch was working before removing swollen battery which had caused screen to detach.

    johnriding - Replica

    How do you put in the battery and close the Watch

    Liam Cassidy - Replica

    DOESN'T WORK FOR ME : Have followed the guide in every point but i have now the red snake.

    Just after repairing i put the watch on the charger, let it some hours to charge.

    when I took it, the watch was hot. It started up and was working. I let it discharge then put it back on the charger. After a few hours, it was not charged and showed the green snake. When I took it out, it showed the red snake.

    Has anyone had this problem and found a solution?

    luc poli - Replica

    Replaced my Series 1 battery/force sensor. The swelled original battery popped the watch open, so no prying necessary. However, the watch wouldn't work normally afterward, only displaying the "put me on my charger!" image of the charge cord with the disc on the end.

    iFixIt was great about sending a replacement... battery, tools, force touch sensor, the whole kit, no charge. Replacement #2 required prying it open, but the force touch sensor stayed put, so I didn't have to replace that the second time. Watch is charging and behaving normally as I calibrate the battery. Can unlock etc.

    Be very gentle/careful with the tiny force touch sensor screw. A great comment above says if you lose it, you can put in bit of a pick to press the sensor snug where the screw would hold it. I strongly recommend using a cheap hands-free, head-mounted magnifier w/light for this job. A loop of tape to stick the watch to a surface to hold it still while fiddling with the tiny cable connections was a HUGE help. Take your time!

    Geneius - Replica

    Replaced my Series 1 battery/force sensor. The swelled original battery popped the watch open, so no prying necessary. However, the watch wouldn't work normally afterward, only displaying the "put me on my charger!" image of the charge cord with the disc on the end.

    iFixIt was great about sending a replacement... battery, tools, force touch sensor, the whole kit, no charge. Replacement #2 required prying it open, but the force touch sensor stayed put, so I didn't have to replace that the second time. Watch is charging and behaving normally as I calibrate the battery. Can unlock etc.

    Be very gentle/careful with the tiny force touch sensor screw. A great comment above says if you lose it, you can put in bit of a pick to press the sensor snug where the screw would hold it. I strongly recommend using a cheap hands-free, head-mounted magnifier w/light for this job. A loop of tape to stick the watch to a surface to hold it still while fiddling with the tiny cable connections was a HUGE help. Take your time!

    Geneius - Replica

    Bonjour, connaissez-vous par hasard la référence de la batterie pour AppleWatch 2 de 42mm ?

    Merci

    drakkar_1er@yahoo.fr - Replica

    Bonjour @drakkar1er35709

    Nous la vendons dans notre boutique : Apple Watch (42 mm Series 2) Battery Si vous avez besoin d'autres infos, veuillez contacter notre service client au support@ifixit.com (pour la boutique américaine) ou au eustore@ifixit.com (pour la boutique européenne et française).

    Ce sera un plaisir de vous aider !

    Bien à vous, Claire

    Claire Miesch -

  21. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Schermo: passo 21, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Schermo: passo 21, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1, Schermo: passo 21, immagine 3 di 3
    • Solleva lo schermo verso l'alto e verso sinistra in modo da vedere i cavi sottostanti.

  22. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 22, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 22, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 22, immagine 3 di 3
    • Il connettore del cavo del display e del touch sono fissati al di sotto di una piccola staffa metallica che aderisce all'altoparlante.

    • Usa un attrezzo di apertura in plastica per capovolgere la staffa verso il display e sopra l'altoparlante.

    • Se fai semplicemente leva verso il cinturino dell'orologio, potresti strappare i cavi.

    I managed to replace the force touch sensor without removing the screen

    Andy Campbell - Replica

    Thanks, Andy. After reading your comment, and as I only needed to replace the battery since nothing was wrong with the screen, I too was able to remove the sensor without detaching the screen.

    jeb605 - Replica

    The metal holder thing was glued to cable below. I damaged as I pulled it up and now the watch won’t turn on.

    K E - Replica

  23. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 23, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 23, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 23, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tieni fermo il supporto metallico dal lato sinistro usando le dita o un paio di pinzette.

    • Contemporaneamente, inserisci un piccolo (1mm) cacciavite a testa piatta sotto la piccola linguetta sulla destra.

    • Infine, posiziona un dito dietro la linguetta e intrappola con forza il supporto metallico tra il dito e il cacciavite in modo da rimuovere la cover.

    • Questo rilascerà due linguette scanalate che tengono collegato la cover al supporto e dovrebbe così liberarsi la cover.

    • Togliere la cover può essere difficile e può richiedere più di un tentativo. Siate pazienti, e fate attenzione a non tirare il supporto o tranciare i cavi collegati.

    Also agree: a little too much pressure and the ribbon cable tears at the point it enters the bracket. Take it SLOW and make sure you have really good light and vision. Orient yourself.

    Dave Varon - Replica

    And this is where things went south for me too. Ended up disconnecting from the rest of the watch and the Taptic Engine. I read through this and watched this portion of Ifixit’s YouTube video no less than 15 times, so confusing they way it’s worded and the pictures didn’t help. Now I’m out of luck and out of $190.

    Timothy Hipps - Replica

    Pas de problèmes me particulier à cette étape. Le fait de pousser très légèrement sur la petite languette qui dépasse a suffit, il n’y a vraiment pas besoin de forcer.

    Raphaël WOLFF - Replica

    If you lift out carefull the whole lit / coverbox of the screen connector between your thumb and your pointing finger.

    Then you can peel the cover easy up with your other pointing finger Nail.

    You can feel the smal clip with your nail and lift easy up.

    It works fine by me without any metal of plastic tool.

    Evert - Replica

    And if you do tear your cable? Do you have a video for replacing this?

    aalao - Replica

    I also tore the cable, I assume that once that happens I’m screwed? I have a battery and force touch sensor if anyone needs one for free let me know!

    Connor Bourque - Replica

    Evert is correct - this can be done with a fingernail and does not need to be hard. Seems much safer.

    sambrightman - Replica

    Evert is correct, using fingernail works.

    Thomas Rossano - Replica

    It is possible to replace the force touch sensor without removing the screen

    Andy Campbell - Replica

    There isn’t really a latch that goes with this. Just use the screwdriver to create a bit of space and it comes right off. I assume where most people go wrong is by pinching the case together as they try to separate it. Also, to reduce your chance of breaking it, There is no need to bring it to the nearly 90 degree angle as depicted and 50-60 degree angle allows it to pop back a bit without damaging anything.

    Jerrod Anderson - Replica

    WATCH OUT! It is possible to slip with the screwdriver and completely bungle the connector that the screen plugs into. This is impossible to recover from unless you have the time and microsoldering skills to replace the cable that the screen plugs into.

    Adam Roach - Replica

    I skipped this part as I found it difficult to do and almost made me damaged the entire cover when I tried inserting the screw driver head to the holes beside side it and prying the side part too. So I stopped trying. Ended up looping the adhesive around the screen careful not to touch the adhesive’s sticky side. (I replaced the adhesive along with the swollen battery. ) It was a success.

    Note: I should have zoomed in the photo and now it makes more sense.

    Edward Cruz - Replica

  24. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 24, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 24, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 24, immagine 3 di 3
    • Afferra la cover con le pinzette e fai scorrere verso la parte superiore dell'orologio per liberare l'ultima linguetta scanalata, quindi rimuovi la cover.

  25. Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 25, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione schermo Apple Watch Series 1: passo 25, immagine 2 di 2
    • Fai leva dolcemente per scollegare i cavi dello schermo e del digitalizzatore.

    • Fai attenzione a non toccare nessun contatto direttamente: la patina oleosa sulle dita può impedire la connessione elettrica.

    • Rimuovi lo schermo.

    So how do you get the display off the screen or did I already mess it up cause I just did it

    Jamie Groff - Replica

    Hello guys , appreciate the effort that u guys are doing , have one question though , I own a series 2 watch and I was thinking about changing my screen caz is cracked but I can't find that many lcd for 2 series , and now my question Would a 1 series lcd match my 2series watch? Keep on searching but no answers!!! Many thanks

    cris cri - Replica

    Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the touch sensor and the battery at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.

    rbolling - Replica

    I followed the above instructions and successfully replaced the broken screen, however the new screen won’t pair to my iphone or fully boot up, only goes to a certain point (Pairing stage) and then starts over; any suggestions on what the problem could be?

    Gregg Hardy - Replica

    The display bracket that holds the 2 display connections is the most difficult part of this procedure. (Once you get the display off). A bit clearer explanation would be helpful (or a diagram of where you are actually putting the 1mm flathead and then twisting.

    jeff53 - Replica

    I agree with Jeff53, by far the retention clip bracket was the most nerve racking part on my first attempt. I found that inserting a sharp pointed exacto knife blade between the bracket and metal tops of the screen connectors along the edge that has the smaller clip (closest side to the battery connector) while it was still in a glued down position actually works easier than prying the entire connector up first as done in this guide and then trying to hold it with tweezer while inserting a flat tip screwdriver into that very tiny slit between the bracket and the top of the connectors. Once the excto blade is inserted, just a little twist of the blade pops the retention clip off easily.

    Chad McCollister - Replica

    One other suggestion is to plan on replacing the force touch pressure sensor gasket any time you pry a screen off one of these watches. They are very inexpensive now ($5 range) and easily damaged when prying up the screen or when trying to remove glass shards embedded along the edge of the screen. Replacing the gasket also assures new, fresh adhesive to hold the new screen onto the watch body properly and keeping water resistance intact. If you skip the gasket replacement, plan on a high likelihood of the new screen coming loose and having to take it all back apart again just to replace that $5 adhesive gasket down the road.

    Chad McCollister - Replica

    how do you put the screen back on

    Kristen Meggs - Replica

    hi, after some advice. After replacing the battery and force touch pressure sensor i have no touch control of the screen. i’ve redone the procedure several times and everything looks perfect. but no touch. touch was working before the battery repplacement. i see no tears in the cables and i havent forced anything.

    Kevin Rook - Replica

    Hi Kevin

    I have the same issue. Did you manage to find a solution or reason?

    Thanks

    Begoña Montánchez -

    It is possible to replace the force touch sensor without removing the screen

    Andy Campbell - Replica

    Great guide! I followed each of the steps, took my time and I’m actually successful. I replaced the new adhesive and reversed the steps. Took a little over an hour but I read more than once and really, really took my time. It took patience and the right tools. Thank you!

    Jan Truzinski - Replica

    Did I miss how to make sure the face is secured once again after repairs are made?

    Angela Smitherman - Replica

    Those steps are part of the Force Touch Sensor replacement guide as is indicated on the last step of this guide.

    Nekoniaow -

Conclusione

Continua partendo dal passo 22 della nostra guida del sensore tattile e di forza per richiudere l'orologio e terminare la riparazione.

Altre 95 persone hanno completato questa guida.

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5 Commenti

I followed all the instructions but needed to look repair videos on YouTube. Everything worked perfectly. The bracket is a bit of a challenge, I just took my time.

Thomas Rossano - Replica

I did replace my display and it works super-fine (thanks to iFixit) but the issue am facing right now is glueing the Display+Force Touch Ring+Body. Am unable to keep hold of display to the body and it keeps removing even after sevseral days of rubber banding and heat treatment.

Suraj Jorwekar - Replica

It wasn’t easy but the guide really helped a lot.

THANK YOU

Dennis Bailey - Replica

Super Anleitung. Die Uhr ist zwischendurch angegangen… Obwohl ich mit den Steckern nicht zimperlich war, funktioniert die Uhr nun wieder perfekt. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Christian Schickentanz - Replica

The screen does not respond to any touch. Does that mean the screen is broken? Do I need to replace the full screen with a Force Touch sensor? Thank you.

Ian Chan - Replica

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