Introduzione
Il gruppo scheda madre/batteria è un pezzo unico.
Cosa ti serve
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Per aiutarti nel trovare i ganci, i due cerchiati in rosso sono i più vicini alla presa jack.
i don't know what genoration my ipod is...but it looks exactly like that on and it doesnt have the clips......what do i do?
https://www.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-iPod
Try that first to find what you have
Given the inherited risks of damaging the components, it would also be important to mention that the area where there are no clips is where the flat cable to the screen resides. So NO deep sticking tools in that area. It’s attractive to do because at that right side the back panel is intruded the easiest way - but dont do it.
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Infila lo strumento di apertura per iPod nella fessura tra la copertura anteriore e quella posteriore dell'iPod, sopra la porta di connessione. La punta dello strumento dovrebbe essere rivolta verso la copertura posteriore per evitare di graffiare per sbaglio la copertura anteriore in alluminio anodizzato.
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Infila uno strumento di apertura per iPod nella fessura sul lato della presa jack dell'iPod, con la punta dello strumento rivolta verso la copertura posteriore.
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Allarga delicatamente la fessura esistente premendo/muovendo lo strumento di apertura nella fessura vicino ai due ganci, spingendoli verso il centro dell'iPod fino ad averli liberati entrambi.
the tool i bought because you suggested it to me got inevitably broken like it was butter made, thanks
This is virtually impossible! I have already cut myself when the stupid tool slipped trying to push in on the clips. Why on earth would anyone design something to impossible to open when they know the battery would need to be replaced at some point?
Forget the iFixit plastic tools. You need to use steel on steel. I used a heavy duty engravers knife I happened to have, to get it started. Then, a fine chisel and jeweler’s screwdrivers and LOTS of force to pry it off. I messed up the aluminum front case a bit, but I cleaned that up with sandpaper. The back case was bent a bit, but I straightened that, and after replacing the battery I fastened it back on with black electricians tape. It looks quite well, and good enough for me. I will cancel my order for a replacement back. Joe M 2/3/2018
i never needed the large tool i just needed i little flat head screwdriver
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Infila uno strumento di apertura per iPod nella fessura vicino all'angolo in alto a sinistra e libera i tre ganci lungo il bordo superiore della copertura posteriore.
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Dopo esserti assicurato di aver liberato tutti i ganci, separa le due metà dell'iPod.
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La copertura posteriore è ora separata dall'iPod.
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Dopo aver rimosso la copertura posteriore, il retro del tuo iPod Nano dovrebbe essere come nell'immagine.
At this stage an alternative (and more simple) procedure is to cut the battery wires between the battery and the logic board (one at a time to avoid shorts), remove the old battery, fit the new battery, strip and prepare the ends of the old cut wires, then solder the new battery to these wires again being careful not to short connections. Then sleeve or encapsulate these soldered joints (wax or blu tack will do). This makes it an easier and quicker job.
Sounds a much better idea to me.
I was just given some old parts in a box. Scored a decent router, laptop power supply and 2 ipods. Unfortunately, the newer one has half it's power connector snapped off and the other (4GB/A1236), I successfully reset via iTunes but it doesn't hold a charge! %#*@. I might just scout for an old speaker dock at a garage sale or such and put it in the bathroom or something.
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Svita le sei viti seguenti:
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Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,8 mm
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Tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,9 mm
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Una vite a croce Phillips da 2,4 mm
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Una vite a croce Phillips da 2,6 mm
If your headphone jack isn't working, note that it is possible to replace just the headphone jack here:
There are just 4 soldering points that need to be loosened, and then you can put on the new one.
I was able to remove the back cover using two think plastic guitar picks and my red cross donor card
I read some steps further back and it was recommended to NOT remove all the screws and the boards indicated in the following steps, but to go directly to replace the battery. It is no more difficult to go directly to cut the battery leads, or unsolder them. I tried to splice the new battery wires to the cut leads from the board, but it was hard working with the fine wire. I ended up clearing the top of the three battery solder-through holes, but I did not clear the holes. I soldered the battery leads directly to the top of the small round solder dots…first the white, then the black, and finally the red. I fastened the battery in-place with a piece of two-sided carpet tape. I straightened up the back and taped into place with black electricians tape. It is very delicate work, and not for a beginner…I repair family jewelry, which is valuable practice. Joe M 2/3/2018
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Solleva il gruppo della scheda madre dal bordo del connettore della ghiera cliccabile (il cavo che hai appena scollegato). Ruota il gruppo della scheda madre attorno al cavo dello schermo e appoggialo accanto alla copertura anteriore.
When reassembling the logic board into the case, watch out for the tiny nose of the audio jack that's facing towards the center of the device. This nose has to be inserted first, then the rest of the audio jack followed by the logic board itself.
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Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/251624194311?ssP... some for sale on here that would be great to do this too!
I found removing the back to be very difficult and had to use a mini screwdriver to complete it. While removing the back to replace the clickwheel, I not only destroyed the back, I inadvertently mangled the video cable and so I then had to replace that too.
gruntso - Replica