Questa traduzione potrebbe non riflettere gli aggiornamenti più recenti dalla guida originale. Aiuta ad aggiornare la traduzione o visualizza la guida d'origine.
Introduzione
Segui questa guida per sostituire la scheda madre del tuo Google Pixel 4a
Il pannello del display non rinforzato del Pixel 4a è fragile. Presta particolare attenzione alle avvertenze nella procedura di apertura se vuoi riutilizzare lo schermo.
Cosa ti serve
-
-
Infila uno strumento per l'estrazione delle schede SIM, una punta o l'estremità di una graffetta nel foro nel carrello della scheda SIM.
-
Premi direttamente nel foro per espellere il carrello della scheda SIM.
-
Rimuovi il carrello della scheda SIM.
-
-
-
Nota i due livelli di giunzione sui bordi del telefono:
-
Giunzione dello schermo: un dislivello separa lo schermo dal resto del telefono. La sezione su cui far leva è questa
-
Giunzione del frame: qui un frame di plastica si congiunge con la cover posteriore: Non fare leva su questa giunzione
-
Prima di iniziare, nota le seguenti zone dello schermo:
-
Cavo flex del display: Non inserire il plettro più a fondo di quanto indicato per non rischiare di danneggiare questo cavo.
-
Perimetro dell’adesivo: far leva oltre questo stretto margine senza angolare il plettro rischia di danneggiare il pannello OLED.
Coll down guys and gals.
1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)
2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)
Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.
See the other comments
Cool down guys and gals.
1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)
2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)
Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.
See the other comments
I've measured it: The cable starts arround 1.4-1.6 cm from the lower half from the bottom on the left side.
So You can cut the bottom left corner and of course the upper left one but for safety's sake, watch out for the camera.
You can go up to 5cm down from the upper left side till You're near the cable.
When you say left side, is this your left when the phone screen is facing you?
jaunie -
The third image her shows the back of the screen, not the body of the phone
-
-
-
Posiziona un iOpener riscaldato sul lato destro del display, per un minuto, in modo da ammorbidire l’adesivo.
-
-
-
Posiziona una ventosa il più possibile vicino al bordo destro dello schermo.
-
Solleva la ventosa, applicando una forza costante.
-
Inserisci la punta di un plettro all’interno della giunzione dello schermo per non più di 1mm.
It's pretty easy. Insert it just below the screen between the Display and the Display “holder” or mold.
-
-
-
Mentre il plettro si trova 1 mm all’interno della fessura, sollevalo verso l’alto in modo da formare un angolazione abbastanza elevato.
-
Raggiunta l'angolazione elevata, spingi attentamente il plettro nella fessura per circa 6 mm. Il plettro dovrebbe scivolare al di sotto del pannello OLED.
This took me a while, I ended up sharpening the tip of the pick with a razor so I could push it through the seam and slicing a few times, heat->sharpen-> slice until I finally got it to move, and once it slid under carefully heated up areas and sliced with ~2mm of the pick.
This sounds also harder than it is. Push it in 1mm and just lift the other end in a wider angle like 70° degree from the horinzontal position. There “shouldn't” be much you can do wrong. Because except for the Data cable (flex) at a certain position, I can't remeber anything important but isolating tapes that I have scratched.
It's just the Screen glued to the mold. That's it.
Oh, and I wonder here where do You all get such thins plectrums? I have also the flat plastic version and the thin plastic cards but none of them were thin enough for this!!
I ended up using the backside i.e. the dull side of a Razorblade. I didn't saw any alternatives to this. Did You hear this OP?
Any!!
the display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. BE VERY CAREFUL when going around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
-
-
-
Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il lato destro dello schermo per rimuovere l’adesivo.
-
Lascia il plettro sull’angolo in alto a destra dello schermo per impedire che l’adesivo faccia presa di nuovo.
The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
-
-
-
Inserisci un altro plettro di apertura in un angolo sul lato inferiore del telefono, dove si sarà formata un'altra fessura, in modo da evitare di danneggiare il pannello OLED.
-
Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il lato inferiore del telefono per tagliare l’adesivo.
-
Lascia il plettro inserito lungo il lato inferiore per evitare che l’adesivo faccia nuovamente presa.
Top and bottom edge adhesive were much stronger than this suggests. Corners were very hard to detach. I killed my screen b/c I cracked it at the top. Worked better with heating around whole perimeter like an iPhone.
WARNING: Be very careful prying the bottom left and right corners! In fact do not insert anything there because there is only a 0.8mm clearance between the screen and the edge, and there's a 0.5mm space between the screen and front glass where if you insert a pick between the screen will crack and break! I had to replace the screen after only doing a battery repair...
Unfortunately I did not properly read the comments here. So for the unafraid people like me:
DO NOT insert something into the bottom right! Especially not like it is shown in the image at this location!
Instead I suggest start releasing the screen from right, then left side, then top and as the last step release the bottom, but start with the left corner. Do not pry too much and use a bit more heat as suggested.
There is a small image of this critical right corner in Step 16 (the part at the top is the display and the left corner at the top is the critical right corner here). You'll see the orange cable in the corner which is easy to damage...
I can second the warnings - especially at the lower corners the OLED screen is extremely sensitive to breaking - as has happened in my attempt when inserting the pick 2 mm.
The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
-
-
-
Inserisci un altro plettro di apertura in un angolo sul lato inferiore del telefono, dove si sarà formata un'altra fessura, in modo da evitare di danneggiare il pannello OLED.
-
Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il lato sinistro del telefono.
-
Lascia il plettro inserito lungo il lato sinistro del telefono, per evitare che l’adesivo faccia nuovamente presa.
The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
-
-
-
C'è una griglia che copre la capsula auricolare sotto il bordo superiore dello schermo. Se non hai una griglia di ricambio, stai attento a non danneggiarla o perderla.
-
Inserisci un altro plettro in un angolo sul lato sinistro del telefono, dove si sarà formata un'altra fessura, in modo da evitare di danneggiare il pannello OLED.
-
Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il lato superiore del telefono per rimuovere l’adesivo.
The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
-
-
-
Solleva lo schermo dal lato superiore e fallo girare attorno al lato inferiore, finché non riesci a poggiarlo con il vetro rivolto verso il basso.
FR : Précision : La nappe a un bout d'adhésif sur la structure du téléphone, il faut bien faire attention de le décoller. Je viens de tuer la nappe de mon écran qui était fonctionnel...
EN : Advice : The ribbon cable is fixed to the structure with a small piece of adhesive. It should be remove prior to anything else. I just killed the ribbon cable of my perfectly used to work screen...
-
-
-
Con un paio di pinzette, rimuovi delicatamente il nastro isolante che copre la staffa sopra il connettore dello schermo.
Interestingly this tape was missing in my phone. Maybe that explains some of the display issues I occasionally had, like a thin green line on the right side of the screen which could be "pushed" away.
I think I ripped off the cable because it is undistinguishable from the tape! How screwed am I?
-
-
-
Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 2.1 mm che tengono in posizione la staffa sopra il connettore dello schermo.
A T4 driver worked for me here.
It is definitely a T4.
Funny ... For me, it was T3. The screws must vary across different phones
-
-
-
-
Usa la punta di uno spudger per fare leva sul cavo flex e disconnetterlo.
No, why the tip? Use the other flat side that doesn't concetrate all the power on one point and Youre doing a propper job.
Only the tip is needed to lift a bit one of the sides and it will pop out. No pressure/power!
-
-
-
Rimuovi lo schermo.
-
Verifica se il tuo nuovo schermo di ricambio ha la griglia degli altoparlanti e l'adesivo sul bordo superiore preinstallati.
-
In tal caso, non avrai bisogno dell'adesivo sul bordo superiore.
-
Se non ce l'ha, rimuovi il rivestimento trasparente più grande dall'adesivo sul bordo superiore e applicalo allo schermo (non alla cornice). Assicurati che l'apertura più grande si allinei con la griglia degli altoparlanti.
-
Segui questa guida se stai usando adesivi ritagliati su misura.
This step seems to imply that a screen replacement is necessary when replacing the charging port. Is the charging port replaceable without replacing the screen? I understand great care must be taken not to damage the original screen in the procedure, but can it be reinstalled?
Yes, it can be reinstalled.
Just a heads up: If you are like me and you have accidentally turned on your Pixel 4a at some point while trying to pry the screen, don't worry too much. I was able to just connect my display with the device on. Nothing will happen until you reboot, and then the screen will initialize.
It would help to add that the new screen is reattached after adding glue to phone body, not the screen. With the iFixit screen adhesive pieces, a guide to which piece goes where would help also. For that I used this picture: Google Pixel 4a Display Adhesive - Genuine. Yet that is not enough as there is a cover for (speaker?) which is not clear how to apply that.
The repair kit comes with Google Pixel 4a Display Adhesive - Genuine but there is no guide on how to apply that adhesive. I sent an email, but Ifixit won't make an instruction page for this.
To explain how the adhesive sold by iFixit works, the actual adhesive is the black strip which is held between two pieces of plastic. Line up the pieces with the clear plastic side down. Note that some pieces may be stuck in the box they came in, the plastic is staticky. I recommend that before attaching the new screen you put each piece in place. Remove the clear plastic and place the pieces in place with the colored plastic facing up. The goal is to have the black adhesive strip on the little ledge between the edge and the depression inside the phone. It's the place where you hopefully spent time cleaning out the original adhesive. Place the corners first, then the edges. Press them into place carefully. Before removing the colored plastic attach the phone screen cable and secure it. REMEMBER TO PLACE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE OVER THE CONNECTOR (I forgot to). Then remove the colored plastic, leaving behind the adhesive, and push the screen into place.
Of note: the seal peace at the top goes under the speaker screen, and the seal looks at first like it is reversed. To install that one accurately adhere it to the Screen itself not the body of the phone. align it where there is a see through circle along the seam and a hole in the adhesive. the sealant should run below the speaker screen. When readhering the screen to the body, remove the plastic guides around the body, then last the seal on the screen and align and install.
Super, c'est vraiment à la portée de tout le monde, il faut juste un peu de patience et d'audace.
Je viens de réussir le remplacement de mon écran et c'est impec !
Il n'y a que sur la première partie, où il faut insérer le médiateur, que ça a été compliqué pour moi. Impossible de l'insérer du côté des boutons (à droite donc), par contre quand je me suis décidée à tester en passant par l'autre côté, c'est venu tout seul.
Aussi il m'a fallu un certain temps pour comprendre que sur les adhésifs, seul le trait noir colle, et c'est donc à lui qu'il faut faire attention.
Pensez à vérifier que l'écran est fonctionnel avant de le recoller, à mon premier essai la nappe n'était pas bien insérée et j'ai du recommencer l'insertion. Voila, prendre son temps et vérifier que tout va bien à chaque étape et c'est très facile. J'ai mis un peu moins d'une heure.
After I clipped the screen in place, I realized that I had forgotten to reattach the screen bracket from step 14. Do you think this is dangerous? Can anyone assess this? In any case, the smartphone turns on and actually makes a good impression.
Many thanks in advance for your assessment!
Kind regards
Tom
Just some advice before you install the screen regarding the earphone grille/mesh at the top.
Something I experienced, was that the speaker grille did not end up being seated quite right when the phone display was stuck down. It is slightly bent, and the top edge is stuck out at a slight angle - it is quite sharp and does not take much to catch a finger on it, when the phone is out of a protective case.
I think this was because I laid the screen in, starting from the top and with it up at quite a steep angle, then working from top to bottom. I would suggest that when setting the new display within the device, that you align the bottom edge first instead.
I am not going to risk lifting the new display to try and re-seat this grille properly, the display cost me a bloody fortune (around 58% of the phone's original price) and I am not risking breaking it over something as minor as that.
nb. I definitely removed all the coloured plastic protective pieces before installing the new screen into the phone.
-
-
-
Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per svitare le otto viti da 4,3 mm che fissano la copertura posteriore al telaio intermedio.
-
-
-
Infila un plettro nella fessura tra il telaio intermedio e la copertura posteriore.
-
Fai scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo inferiore del telefono per rilasciare i ganci in plastica che fissano la copertura posteriore al telaio intermedio.
-
-
-
Apri attentamente la copertura posteriore sollevando il bordo inferiore del telefono e usando quello superiore come perno.
-
Appoggia la copertura posteriore sul piano di lavoro e appoggia delicatamente il telaio intermedio alla copertura stessa, stando attento a non tirare i cavi a nastro che li collegano.
-
-
-
Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per svitare le sette viti che tengono ferma la copertura della scheda madre:
-
Tre viti nere da 2,9 mm
-
Tre viti da 2 mm
-
Una vite da 4,1 mm
-
-
-
Usa la punta di uno spudger per sganciare la copertura della scheda madre dagli angoli in alto a destra e in basso a destra della scheda stessa.
on mine, the fingerprint sensor cable was lightly adherent to the bracket and I almost tore it when the bracket popped up. may want to add something about freeing this up before removing the bracket.
Similar to Erik, my fingerprint sensor cable was adhered to the bracket and mine did tear. I didn't use the fingerprint sensor, so hopefully this doesn't affect anything else with the phone. Now I know to read the comments! X_X
I had the same issues: The cable was attached to the bracket and I had to be very careful in pushing the bracket to the side and reach under it with the spudger to detach the fingerprint cable. And I also found the top clip of the bracket hard to unclip. It worked when I started with the lower one and then pushed the bracket to the side a bit. It seemed to be glued on the top corner.
My fingerprint sensor cable was also glued to the bracket, but it seems like a sturdy cable so was not easily damaged
Ok this was really bad for me I did not understand how the clip was oriented and tried to pull it up lightly first and then strongly, it finally came off but I bent and broke the bridge just a bit, and most importantly the RFID or fingerprint sensor cable (the circle in the back). I don't use it and nothing more was harmed managed to put everything back in place but
Beware of the clips, you have to pull them TOWARDS you, then the bridge will pop-up, don't apply strength upwards before unclicking the 2 clicks towards you (horizontal plane)this is the most frustrating step in the entire guide. i used tweezers and pushed to the left of the upper bracket to free it. no upward force is required to free it. be careful
-
-
-
Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva e scollegare il connettore della batteria.
-
-
-
Usa la punta di uno spudger per scollegare i due cavi a nastro che collegano il sensore delle impronte e i tasti alla scheda madre.
-
-
-
Usa la punta di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo della presa jack dalla scheda madre.
-
-
-
Infila un plettro sotto la presa jack e ruotalo per rilasciarla dall'adesivo che la fissa al telaio intermedio.
-
Rimuovi la presa jack.
There shouldn't be a need to remove the headphone jack to get to the charging port since you have already disconnected it from the board.
I did not remove the microphone jack as you suggested and it was fine, thanks!
IFuxedIt -
I also tried skipping the step but then trapped the cable under the motherboard on reassembly. I would say for that reason that it's safer to fully remove.
-
-
-
Fai leva con la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare la fotocamera anteriore dalla scheda madre.
-
-
-
Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per svitare le due viti da 4,1 mm che tengono fermo il gruppo dello speaker principale.
-
-
-
Usa la punta di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dell'altoparlante dalla scheda madre.
Be careful on this step. I ended up popping out part of the clip housing (I may be able to repair once I look at it with a magnifying glass). Maybe the flat side of the spudger would be better.
-
-
-
Utilizza un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le tre viti che fissano la scheda madre:
-
Due viti nere lunghe 2,9 mm
-
Una vite lunga 2,1 mm
-
-
-
Usa l'angolo di un plettro di apertura per staccare il nastro adesivo che copre l'altoparlante dell'auricolare.
-
-
-
Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto il bordo inferiore della scheda madre e sollevala quanto basta per afferrarla con le dita.
-
Confronta la tua nuova parte di ricambio con la parte originale: potrebbe essere necessario trasferire i componenti rimanenti o rimuovere i supporti adesivi dalla nuova parte prima dell'installazione.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui i passaggi precedenti in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici in un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova alcune soluzioni ai problemi di base, oppure chiedi alla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto.
Confronta la tua nuova parte di ricambio con la parte originale: potrebbe essere necessario trasferire i componenti rimanenti o rimuovere i supporti adesivi dalla nuova parte prima dell'installazione.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui i passaggi precedenti in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici in un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova alcune soluzioni ai problemi di base, oppure chiedi alla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto.
Annulla: non ho completato questa guida.
Altre 6 persone hanno completato questa guida.
Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:
92%
Questi traduttori ci stanno aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›
5 Commenti
Longshot here… I dropped my phone and it appears to be dead, although no physical signs of damage. Right after it happened, I could see an image on the screen but it was frozen, so I pressed the power button and the screen turned off, and then I wasn’t able to turn it back on from then on. There are no signs of life at all… no lights, no vibrations, no sounds. If I plug it into my computer, nothing happens. So totally dead. I already opened it up and checked for any obvious damage to internal components or loose cables. Didn’t find any smoking guns, so I just tried disconnecting and re-connecting all the ribbon cables. Still no success. I’m wondering if you have any thoughts on whether a battery or motherboard replacement might bring my phone back to life, and if so, if you have any thoughts on one or the other. My initial thought is that’s it more likely that something on the motherboard got damaged from a physical drop vs. the battery, but any other input you could offer would be great.
That’s a tough one Sally… I can’t guarantee replacing any certain component will fix your phone given the information. Disconnecting and reconnecting the cables was a good idea. No signs of life at all suggests to me it’s likely the battery or motherboard, like you said.
If it’s still under warranty see if Google will replace it, they replaced my pixel 3 twice when it bricked for no apparent reason. If it’s not then I think the best course of action would be to meticulously search for the damage starting with the motherboard. Use a magnifying glass. Even if a single tiny transistor popped off that would be enough to brick it. If you can’t find anything, you’ll have to take a chance replacing one part at a time until you get it working again.
Good luck!
Hey there, probably no fix to this, but I went swimming in a salt water pool with my 4a on accident and the repair store said the motherboard was fried and unrepairable. Is there any chance that I can still get data off the phone?
Unfortunately, even if you disassemble your phone clean it in an ultrasonic bath, then replace the battery, you’d still have to be very lucky for it to power back on with data intact.
