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Introduzione

Usa questa guida per rimuovere o sostituire una scheda logica difettosa nel tuo iPhone 6s.

E' importante notare che ogni scheda logica e ogni sensore di impronte digitali Touch ID sono accoppiati in fabbrica, quindi con la sostituzione della scheda logica si disabilita il Touch ID salvo installare un pulsante home sostitutivo che sia stato correttamente accoppiato alla tua nuova scheda logica.

Puoi usare questa guida anche come referenza per sostituire gli sticker di schermatura EMI della scheda logica.

  1. Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.
    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.

    • Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe P2 da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone, vicino al connettore Lightning.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Replica

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Replica

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Replica

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Replica

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Replica

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Replica

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Replica

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - Replica

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Replica

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Replica

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Replica

  2. Con l'apertura del display del 6s, si staccherà una sottile striscia di adesivo attorno al perimetro dello schermo. Se preferisci sostituire l'adesivo, tieni pronte delle nuove strisce adesive prima di continuare. È possibile completare la riparazione senza sostituire l'adesivo e probabilmente non noterai alcuna differenza nella funzionalità.
    • Con l'apertura del display del 6s, si staccherà una sottile striscia di adesivo attorno al perimetro dello schermo. Se preferisci sostituire l'adesivo, tieni pronte delle nuove strisce adesive prima di continuare. È possibile completare la riparazione senza sostituire l'adesivo e probabilmente non noterai alcuna differenza nella funzionalità.

    • Applica una ventosa nell'angolo inferiore sinistro del gruppo display.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Replica

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Replica

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Replica

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Replica

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Replica

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Replica

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael Magor - Replica

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Replica

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Replica

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Replica

  3. Tira la ventosa con una pressione forte e costante per creare una piccola fessura tra il pannello anteriore e il case posteriore. Prenditi tutto il tempo necessario e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display è molto più forzato di quanto accada per la maggior parte dei dispositivi ed è tenuto in posizione con l'adesivo.
    • Tira la ventosa con una pressione forte e costante per creare una piccola fessura tra il pannello anteriore e il case posteriore.

    • Prenditi tutto il tempo necessario e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display è molto più forzato di quanto accada per la maggior parte dei dispositivi ed è tenuto in posizione con l'adesivo.

    • Tirare troppo forte potrebbe danneggiare il gruppo display. Applica una pressione appena sufficiente a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Replica

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Replica

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Replica

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Replica

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Replica

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Replica

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Replica

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Replica

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Replica

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Replica

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Replica

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Replica

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Replica

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Replica

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Replica

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Replica

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Replica

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Replica

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Replica

  4. C'è un intaglio nella parte inferiore del display, appena sopra il jack cuffie. Questo è il posto più sicuro da dove cominciare a far leva per aprire il telefono. Inserisci la punta piatta di uno spudger nella fessura tra lo schermo e il case posteriore, direttamente al di sopra del jack cuffie.
    • C'è un intaglio nella parte inferiore del display, appena sopra il jack cuffie. Questo è il posto più sicuro da dove cominciare a far leva per aprire il telefono.

    • Inserisci la punta piatta di uno spudger nella fessura tra lo schermo e il case posteriore, direttamente al di sopra del jack cuffie.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Replica

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Replica

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Replica

  5. Fai ruotare lo spudger per allargare l'apertura tra lo schermo e il case posteriore. Fai ruotare lo spudger per allargare l'apertura tra lo schermo e il case posteriore.
    • Fai ruotare lo spudger per allargare l'apertura tra lo schermo e il case posteriore.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Replica

  6. Inserisci la punta piatta di uno spudger nel lato sinistro del telefono, tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore. Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato del telefono per separare l'adesivo e liberare le clip di fissaggio.
    • Inserisci la punta piatta di uno spudger nel lato sinistro del telefono, tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

    • Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato del telefono per separare l'adesivo e liberare le clip di fissaggio.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Replica

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Replica

  7. Rimuovi lo spudger e reinseriscilo dal lato inferiore, dove hai iniziato ad aprire il telefono. Fai scorrere lo spudger verso destra, lungo il lato inferiore del telefono.
    • Rimuovi lo spudger e reinseriscilo dal lato inferiore, dove hai iniziato ad aprire il telefono.

    • Fai scorrere lo spudger verso destra, lungo il lato inferiore del telefono.

  8. Fai scorrere lo spudger anche lungo il lato destro per continuare a separare l'adesivo e liberare dall'iPhone le clip del display. Fai scorrere lo spudger anche lungo il lato destro per continuare a separare l'adesivo e liberare dall'iPhone le clip del display.
    • Fai scorrere lo spudger anche lungo il lato destro per continuare a separare l'adesivo e liberare dall'iPhone le clip del display.

  9. Usa la ventosa per aprire il display, rompendo i resti dell'adesivo. Non creare un angolo superiore a 90°, perché il display è ancora connesso alla parte superiore da tre cavi che potrebbero rompersi se vengono sforzati.
    • Usa la ventosa per aprire il display, rompendo i resti dell'adesivo.

    • Non creare un angolo superiore a 90°, perché il display è ancora connesso alla parte superiore da tre cavi che potrebbero rompersi se vengono sforzati.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Replica

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Replica

  10. Tira la sporgenza sul lato superiore per rimuovere la ventosa dal pannello anteriore. Tira la sporgenza sul lato superiore per rimuovere la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.
    • Tira la sporgenza sul lato superiore per rimuovere la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.

  11. Afferra con delicatezza il gruppo display e sollevalo verso l'alto per aprire il telefono, usando le clip nella parte alta del pannello anteriore come una cerniera. Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e appoggialo contro qualche cosa per tenerlo sollevato mentre tu lavori sul telefono. Usa anche un elastico per tenere il display in una posizione sicura mentre lavori. In questo modo eviterai di forzare i cavi del display.
    • Afferra con delicatezza il gruppo display e sollevalo verso l'alto per aprire il telefono, usando le clip nella parte alta del pannello anteriore come una cerniera.

    • Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e appoggialo contro qualche cosa per tenerlo sollevato mentre tu lavori sul telefono.

    • Usa anche un elastico per tenere il display in una posizione sicura mentre lavori. In questo modo eviterai di forzare i cavi del display.

    • In caso di necessità, puoi usare la lattina di una bibita ancora chiusa per tenere sollevato il display.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Replica

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Replica

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Replica

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Replica

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Replica

  12. Rimuovi le due viti Phillips che fissano la staffa del connettore della batteria:
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips che fissano la staffa del connettore della batteria:

    • Una vite da 2,9 mm

    • Una vite da 2,2 mm

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Replica

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Replica

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Replica

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Replica

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Replica

  13. Rimuovi la staffa del connettore della batteria dall'iPhone. Rimuovi la staffa del connettore della batteria dall'iPhone.
    • Rimuovi la staffa del connettore della batteria dall'iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Replica

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Replica

  14. Usa la punta di uno spudger per disconnettere la spina della batteria facendo leva direttamente dalla scheda logica. Usa la punta di uno spudger per disconnettere la spina della batteria facendo leva direttamente dalla scheda logica. Usa la punta di uno spudger per disconnettere la spina della batteria facendo leva direttamente dalla scheda logica.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per disconnettere la spina della batteria facendo leva direttamente dalla scheda logica.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Replica

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Replica

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Replica

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Replica

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Replica

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Replica

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Replica

  15. Spingi il connettore della batteria lontano dalla scheda logica finché rimane ben separato dal suo zoccolino per evitare il rischio di connessione accidentale alla batteria mentre lavori. Spingi il connettore della batteria lontano dalla scheda logica finché rimane ben separato dal suo zoccolino per evitare il rischio di connessione accidentale alla batteria mentre lavori.
    • Spingi il connettore della batteria lontano dalla scheda logica finché rimane ben separato dal suo zoccolino per evitare il rischio di connessione accidentale alla batteria mentre lavori.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Replica

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Replica

  16. Kit per Nintendo Switch

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

    Kit per Nintendo Switch

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits
  17. Rimuovi le seguenti quattro viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa del cavo del display:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti quattro viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa del cavo del display:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 2,8 mm

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Replica

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Replica

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Replica

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Replica

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Replica

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Replica

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Replica

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Replica

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Replica

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Replica

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Replica

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Replica

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Replica

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Replica

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Replica

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Replica

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - Replica

  18. Rimuovi la staffa del cavo del display. Rimuovi la staffa del cavo del display.
    • Rimuovi la staffa del cavo del display.

  19. Usa uno spudger oppure un'unghia pulita per disconnettere il cavo flessibile della fotocamera anteriore facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Usa uno spudger oppure un'unghia pulita per disconnettere il cavo flessibile della fotocamera anteriore facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa uno spudger oppure un'unghia pulita per disconnettere il cavo flessibile della fotocamera anteriore facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Replica

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Replica

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Replica

  20. Scollega il cavo del digitizer facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Quando devi riattaccare il cavo del digitizer, non premere nel centro del connettore. Premi da un lato e poi dall'altro. Premendo nel centro del connettore si può piegare questo elemento e causare danni al digitizer.
    • Scollega il cavo del digitizer facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Quando devi riattaccare il cavo del digitizer, non premere nel centro del connettore. Premi da un lato e poi dall'altro. Premendo nel centro del connettore si può piegare questo elemento e causare danni al digitizer.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Replica

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Replica

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Replica

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Replica

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - Replica

  21. Accertati che la batteria sia scollegata prima di disconnettere o riconnettere il cavo in questo passo. Scollega il cavo dati del display facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Accertati che la batteria sia scollegata prima di disconnettere o riconnettere il cavo in questo passo.

    • Scollega il cavo dati del display facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Replica

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Replica

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Replica

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Replica

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Replica

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  22. Rimuovi il gruppo display.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Replica

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Replica

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Replica

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Replica

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Replica

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Replica

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Replica

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - Replica

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - Replica

  23. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare la fotocamera iSight dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare la fotocamera iSight dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare la fotocamera iSight dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  24. Rimuovi le seguenti due viti a croce Phillips dalla staffa della fotocamera iSight:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti due viti a croce Phillips dalla staffa della fotocamera iSight:

    • Una vite da 1,6 mm

    • Una vite da 2,0 mm

    Remember to place the nfc bracket under the camera bracket properly before attaching the 2.0mm screw.

    Mikołaj Podjacki - Replica

    Thank you - well pointed out!

    Laurie MacDonald - Replica

  25. Rimuovi la staffa della fotocamera. Rimuovi la staffa della fotocamera.
    • Rimuovi la staffa della fotocamera.

  26. Infila uno spudger sotto il lato della fotocamera, tra il case posteriore e il modulo fotocamera. Fai leva delicatamente sulla fotocamera per estrarla dal suo alloggiamento.
    • Infila uno spudger sotto il lato della fotocamera, tra il case posteriore e il modulo fotocamera.

    • Fai leva delicatamente sulla fotocamera per estrarla dal suo alloggiamento.

  27. Rimuovi la fotocamera. Rimuovi la fotocamera.
    • Rimuovi la fotocamera.

    There is one more step after this.

    You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

    Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

    Sry for my english.

    Best regards

    It Step - Replica

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Hi - after doing this I had a little part left over … eek.. part number 160-5Z and two little screws… can you help by tells my me where ive gone wrong please? Thank you

    Hayley graham - Replica

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole on the upper right side as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Faltaría el paso de retirar la parte metálica que se encuentra antes del vidrio del lente. Que método utiliza para retirarla?

    Nicolas Muller - Replica

  28. Inserisci uno strumento di estrazione SIM o una graffetta nel piccolo foro nel vassoio della scheda SIM. Premi per espellere la SIM.
    • Inserisci uno strumento di estrazione SIM o una graffetta nel piccolo foro nel vassoio della scheda SIM.

    • Premi per espellere la SIM.

    • L'operazione può richiedere una certa forza.

    Anyone ever have the lever on these break? I’m in the process of removing logic board to remove a stuck SIM card

    aburningstariv - Replica

  29. Rimuovi il vassoio con la scheda SIM dall'iPhone.
    • Rimuovi il vassoio con la scheda SIM dall'iPhone.

    • Quando reinserisci la scheda SIM, accertati che sia orientata nel verso giusto all'interno del vassoio.

  30. Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips da 2,3 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore superiore del cavo.
    • Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips da 2,3 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore superiore del cavo.

  31. Rimuovi la staffa del connettore superiore del cavo. Rimuovi la staffa del connettore superiore del cavo.
    • Rimuovi la staffa del connettore superiore del cavo.

  32. Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti a croce Phillips di fissaggio dell'antenna Wi-Fi in alto a sinistra: Due viti da 1,5 mm
    • Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti a croce Phillips di fissaggio dell'antenna Wi-Fi in alto a sinistra:

    • Due viti da 1,5 mm

    • Una vite da 2,3 mm

    • Una vite da 1,9 mm

    • Una vite da 2,0 mm

  33. Rimuovi l'antenna Wi-Fi in alto a sinistra. Rimuovi l'antenna Wi-Fi in alto a sinistra.
    • Rimuovi l'antenna Wi-Fi in alto a sinistra.

    Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

    blitzn - Replica

  34. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo del controllo audio dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo del controllo audio dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo del controllo audio dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  35. Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dell'antenna dal suo zoccolo nell'angolo superiore destro della scheda logica. Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dell'antenna dal suo zoccolo nell'angolo superiore destro della scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dell'antenna dal suo zoccolo nell'angolo superiore destro della scheda logica.

    It is still recommended to disconnect the antenna in this step as it will allow some slack you may need but tugging or pulling on the antenna cable down at the speaker could still damage it so be patience. Also lift on the connection from the metal portion as lifting from the cable could cause it to snap.

    Bryan Solo - Replica

  36. Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dell'antenna dal suo zoccolo nell'angolo inferiore sinistro della scheda logica. Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dell'antenna dal suo zoccolo nell'angolo inferiore sinistro della scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dell'antenna dal suo zoccolo nell'angolo inferiore sinistro della scheda logica.

    Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

    Andrew Truglia - Replica

    During reassembly: be aware that the replacement antenna connector (the one that comes as part of the lightning port assembly) might be a very snug fit here. It probably took me close to 10 minutes to get mine on. Thankfully the little sucker is stronger than it looks, or else I would have smushed it flat multiple times. You’ll know that you finally have it when it lightly snaps in place.

    crimsontideaggie - Replica

  37. Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto il cavo a nastro del connettore Lightning. Solleva il cavo per disconnetterlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto il cavo a nastro del connettore Lightning. Solleva il cavo per disconnetterlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto il cavo a nastro del connettore Lightning. Solleva il cavo per disconnetterlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

    Heidi Moser - Replica

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you may skip to step 46 as removal of the logic board is not necessary.

    Bryan Solo - Replica

  38. Tira delicatamente il cavo dell'antenna per sfilarlo delle due clip sul lato destro della scheda logica. Tira delicatamente il cavo dell'antenna per sfilarlo delle due clip sul lato destro della scheda logica.
    • Tira delicatamente il cavo dell'antenna per sfilarlo delle due clip sul lato destro della scheda logica.

    nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

    waynemcguigan - Replica

    Thanks friend!!

    Pedro -

    Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

    Heidi Moser - Replica

  39. Rimuovi la vite Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissa la staffa dell'NFC alla scheda logica.
    • Rimuovi la vite Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissa la staffa dell'NFC alla scheda logica.

  40. Rimuovi la staffa dell'NFC. Rimuovi la staffa dell'NFC.
    • Rimuovi la staffa dell'NFC.

    Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

    Matvey Sokolov - Replica

    “This particular part is responsible for the normal operation of ApplePay, when errors occur it is often the cause, but not always.” Translated this comment into english because I found it very helpful and figured other english speakers would find it helpful to know as well.

    TitanTech Service Center - Replica

    Does this also have to do with Airdrop?

    Richard Leknes - Replica

  41. Rimuovi le seguenti due viti a croce Phillips: Una vite da 2,5 mm nella parte superiore della scheda logica
    • Rimuovi le seguenti due viti a croce Phillips:

    • Una vite da 2,5 mm nella parte superiore della scheda logica

    • Una vite da 1,4 mm posizionata nel bordo superiore del case posteriore

  42. Rimuovi la clip di plastica. Rimuovi la clip di plastica.
    • Rimuovi la clip di plastica.

  43. Rimuovi le ultime tre viti che fissano la scheda logica al case posteriore:
    • Rimuovi le ultime tre viti che fissano la scheda logica al case posteriore:

    • Una vite Phillips da 1,9 mm

    • Un dado esagonale da 2,5 mm

    • Una vite Phillips da 1,8 mm

    The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

    mario cruz - Replica

    You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For some reason the 2.5 mm nut driver in my iFixIt tool set does not work. I think the nut is a bit too shallow (short) to fit into the driver itself

    ray - Replica

    Hi Ray! If you think you have a faulty bit, please don’t hesitate to contact customer service, they’ll take care of you!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found the same problem with the 2.5mm nut driver in my, non-iFixit, precision set. The nut is too shallow to engage with the hex socket because of the shape of the rounded edges at the mouth of the socket. Managed to overcome this by carefully re-engineering the socket with a diamond flat file ie filing it to remove the rounded edge and leave the hex opening flat and square. Worked perfectly after this.

    Laurie MacDonald - Replica

    The funny thing is that for some reason the pentalobe bits seem to let the screw nut go out and screw back in.

    Ben -

  44. Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto il bordo inferiore della scheda logica, tra la scheda stessa e l'altoparlante. Usa il plettro di apertura per sollevare delicatamente la scheda logica dal suo alloggiamento. Rimuovi la scheda logica.
    • Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto il bordo inferiore della scheda logica, tra la scheda stessa e l'altoparlante.

    • Usa il plettro di apertura per sollevare delicatamente la scheda logica dal suo alloggiamento.

    • Rimuovi la scheda logica.

    On reassembly, be sure the audio control cable isABOVE the logic board when you place it.

    Cathy Sanford - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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10.277 Guide realizzate

So all the logic boards come with the components installs? Like the High band PAD, power amplifier avago, power amplifier Skyworks, power amplifier TriQuint, LTE modem Qualcomm, and lastly the Apps processor Apple SoC stacked on Elpida RAM. Here I thought you had to buy them.

I'm also assuming that some don't. I would like to know that alternative.

Royer Adames - Replica

Does the logic board have the SSD on them or they else where in the iPhone?

tazzy - Replica

Yup! The SSD is a flash memory chip hidden underneath an EMI shield on the logic board. You can see it in our teardown.

Evan Noronha -

Um, no, actually the NAND/ssd/flash/storage chip is the big Toshiba one in the middle, it’s the one next to the line of capacitors, and is not under the shields. there are shields on either side of it. Look at the teardown page you linked to yourself and you will confirm what I’ve said.

Sam the Techman -

great guide worked perfectly, had some minor water damaged internals with a completely good logic board, replaced it in a 16g pos basically have a brand new 128g 6s

miniperf93 - Replica

Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

Jeff Moore - Replica

Great instruction. The only thing I had a problem with on my 6s motherboard removal was not knowing how to remove one end of the single black wire that rides along the left edge for about 4 inches (when viewed with the screen upside down and with bottom down. I ended up severing the wire at the bare junction about half way of the wire length. Hope that it is not a coaxial cable!

Richard Lukso - Replica

Great instruction set.

Richard Lukso - Replica

v

Great instruction. The only thing I had a problem with on my 6s motherboard removal was not knowing how to remove one end of the single black wire that rides along the left edge for about 4 inches (when viewed with the screen upside down and with bottom down. I ended up severing the wire at the bare junction about half way of the wire length. Hope that it is not a coaxial cable!

Richard Lukso - 2 minutes ago

Richard Lukso - Replica

I just cut, soldered, and added shrink tubing, and 3G signal strength is 3-4 dots, after reinstall. I don't believe it is a coax...

James Schumacher - Replica

Hello guys

My iphone is locked with activation lock and I forget my I'd password so what I have to do

Like if I change motherboard then this problem can be solved or not

Reply me at - py12347@gmail.com

py12347 - Replica

if my 6s logic board is water damaged, would replacing this make it work again? i still have my original home button and everything, i know apple pairs the logic board with the home button for touch id security purposes. so will i still be able to use my apple/touch id if the logic board is different?

Radu - Replica

If your logic board has water damage, it's not necessarily gone forever. For relatively minor water damage, give this guide a try. If that doesn't do the trick, a professional repair tech with an ultrasonic cleaner and board-level repair skills can probably still bring it back to life. If you do end up replacing the logic board, then yes, you will lose Touch ID functions unless you also purchase and install the home button that was originally paired to the new logic board. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi, I know nothing of phones or repair, but am trying to find out if I can recover the data on my iphone 6s. It hasn't been opened yet but due to the nature of the "bend" in the phone, a "tech" felt the motherboard was likely cracked (he didn't open it, just decided this based on that bend the fact it won't power on/ charge, though it was charged before it got bent). I would love to save my iPhone, but I'm most concerned about the pictures and texts that I have on this phone. Anyone have any suggestions? I would be afraid of replacing it outright if that data is stored there. I couldn't afford to replace the phone with another iphone right now, so when I plug back in it will be with a cheaper Android. Thanks!

Jamie Spray - Replica

Great instruction set. Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

amigoclubs - Replica

Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

Best Regards

Amigo

amigoclubs - Replica

Hi! this is a helpful turtorial. but where can I buy the logic board? and do different countries have differrent logic board? like is there any difference in an US iphone 6s logic board and an European one?

zubajrat - Replica

hi my ip6s was screen damage but when i go for repair the home button is not functioning. May i know what is the reason of home button is not functioning? have to change board for that? Thank you

fatimah - Replica

Where may I purchase a new logic board for an iPhone 6s? When replacing the Logic Board, is it required to replaced the home button as well?

Lambo Thach - Replica

So I was trying to replace my screen so I turned it off and followed a video online. While i was trying to plug in the display cable, it conducted electricity and it produced smoke. It seems like I burned parts of the display cable socket. Is there an easy fix for replacing this or would I need to buy a whole new logic board with everything included? My phone still seems to turn on and I can feel the vibration from the ring/silent switch.

Daniel - Replica

@dank_00 This happens when you short the pins on the display cable socket while leaving the battery connected. The little puff of smoke was your backlight filter getting fried. (For future reference, on any mobile electronics repair, you should always disconnect the battery before you start and don’t reconnect it until you’re done.) You don’t need a new logic board, as this is a pretty straightforward repair for a shop with the right skill and equipment. But it isn’t a DIY. You’ll need to find someone who does board-level repairs (a.k.a. microsoldering). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

My iPhone 6s is locked with a “lost iPhone” screen . Will replacing the motherboard make it go away ?

Coral - Replica

Hii icloud lock khul jayega yes or no

Manish Gupta - Replica

If motherboard having RAM??

rsai666 - Replica

I ended up with a similar board malfunction on my behalf. My goal was to unscrew the logic board and test it with a new battery since the battery it came with is stuck to the logic board I thought gee, its easier to remove the logic board, I didn’t do it on a ESD surface it was on my bed. and when I connected to logic board to a working battery I forgot to reconnect the power button connector sleep/wake button. I only connected the battery D.C. connector. I’m afraid that I did something really bad to the LB, the smoke came from the front of the logic board under the top metal heat shield cover plate. Not the bottom of mother board with sticky heat shield stickers. There was no sign of water damage, I should’ve took a picture of the mother board before I worked on it to have a record of working components from the before and after the smoke appeared. Did I mess up because I failed to connect the power, sleep/wake button connector to the mother board after I had connected the battery D.C. connector to board?

Holmes - Replica

Is there a reason why iFixit mainly says in the iphone 6s tutorial, “for LB repair to follow steps in revers at the end of each tutorial?”

Holmes - Replica

Hello sir I'm buy a new logic board iPhone 6s 32GB so this board fully software loaded ef u know please reply me ??

mahendarsinghrawatrawat - Replica

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