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Introduzione

Usa questa guida per rimuovere la scheda figlia in un Samsung Galaxy S6. La scheda figlia comprende il jack cuffie, i tasti menu LED e la porta di ricarica USB. Se il tuo telefono non carica più correttamente o se la porta AUX non funziona, sostituire la scheda figlia è un buon punto di partenza.

Questa guida richiede la rimozione del vetro posteriore. Rimuovere il vetro posteriore distrugge l'adesivo che lo tiene in posizione. Segui questa guida per reinstallare il vetro posteriore.

  1. Inserisci una graffetta o lo strumento di estrazione SIM nel foro del vassoio della scheda SIM presente sul lato del pulsante di accensione. Premi per sbloccare il vassoio SIM ed estrarlo parzialmente.
    • Inserisci una graffetta o lo strumento di estrazione SIM nel foro del vassoio della scheda SIM presente sul lato del pulsante di accensione.

    • Premi per sbloccare il vassoio SIM ed estrarlo parzialmente.

    • Non premere troppo forte, potresti danneggiare il vassoio della scheda SIM.

    It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

    David White - Replica

    Done. Thanks for the tip!

    Minor editor -

  2. Rimuovi dal telefono il vassoio della scheda SIM.
    • Rimuovi dal telefono il vassoio della scheda SIM.

  3. Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener. Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.
    • Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener.

    • Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.

    • Per forni a microonde con piatto rotante: assicurati che il piatto giri liberamente. Se l'iOpener si incastrasse da qualche parte, potrebbe surriscaldarsi e bruciare.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Replica

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

  4. Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.
    • Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.

    • Se durante la riparazione l'iOpener si raffredda, scaldalo di nuovo nel microonde per 30 secondi.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante l'operazione. Il surriscaldamento può far bruciare l'iOpener.

    • Non toccare mai l'iOpener se appare gonfio.

    • Se l'iOpener è ancora troppo caldo in mezzo per poterlo toccare, continua a utilizzarlo mentre attendi che si raffreddi un po' prima di scaldarlo di nuovo. Un iOpener riscaldato correttamente dovrebbe rimanere caldo fino a 10 minuti.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

  5. Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.
    • Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.

    • L'iOpener sarà davvero caldissimo, perciò fai attenzione quando lo maneggi. Usa una presina da forno, se necessario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

  6. L'apertura del telefono comprometterà le tenute impermeabili. Prima di procedere devi avere dell'adesivo sostitutivo oppure, se non intendi sostituire l'adesivo stesso, dovrei avere cura di evitare l'esposizione a infiltrazioni di liquidi. Se il tuo vetro è in frantumi, metti del nastro adesivo da pacchi sull'intero pannello per tenerlo insieme durante l'operazione di rimozione.
    • L'apertura del telefono comprometterà le tenute impermeabili. Prima di procedere devi avere dell'adesivo sostitutivo oppure, se non intendi sostituire l'adesivo stesso, dovrei avere cura di evitare l'esposizione a infiltrazioni di liquidi.

    • Se il tuo vetro è in frantumi, metti del nastro adesivo da pacchi sull'intero pannello per tenerlo insieme durante l'operazione di rimozione.

    • Metti l'iOpener sopra il pannello per circa due minuti per ammorbidire l'adesivo lungo i bordi del vetro.

    • Può rendersi necessario riscaldare di nuovo, riapplicando l'iOpener più volte, perché il telefono sia abbastanza caldo. Segui le istruzioni dell'iOpener per evitare surriscaldamenti.

    • Sposta l'iOpener per scaldare la sezione rimanente del pannello per altri due minuti.

    • Si possono usare anche un asciugacapelli, una pistola termica o una piastra calda, ma devi stare attento non surriscaldare il telefono: sia il display OLED sia la batteria interna possono essere danneggiati dal calore eccessivo.

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed - Replica

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung - Replica

    haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

    Michael -

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken - Replica

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD - Replica

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray - Replica

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch - Replica

    I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

    Brian Gillan - Replica

    Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

    BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

    Michael - Replica

    To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!

    Michael Bielec - Replica

    I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.

    Sam Turner - Replica

  7. Una volta che il vetro posteriore è molto caldo al tatto, applica una ventosa vicino al bordo inferiore del vetro. Solleva la ventosa per creare una piccola fessura al di sotto del vetro posteriore e inserisci un plettro di apertura nella fessura stessa. Opzionalmente, una volta che il plettro di apertura è inserito, puoi aggiungere qualche goccia di alcol isopropilico nella fessura per favorire il distacco dell'adesivo nei passi successivi.
    • Una volta che il vetro posteriore è molto caldo al tatto, applica una ventosa vicino al bordo inferiore del vetro.

    • Solleva la ventosa per creare una piccola fessura al di sotto del vetro posteriore e inserisci un plettro di apertura nella fessura stessa.

    • Opzionalmente, una volta che il plettro di apertura è inserito, puoi aggiungere qualche goccia di alcol isopropilico nella fessura per favorire il distacco dell'adesivo nei passi successivi.

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender - Replica

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    [deleted] - Replica

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes - Replica

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia - Replica

    Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.

    Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.

    Adam Talbott - Replica

    Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.

    Paul Knight - Replica

  8. Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo inferiore del telefono per tagliare l'adesivo che blocca il vetro posteriore. Eseguita questa parte, può essere utile lasciare il plettro in posizione e utilizzarne un altro per procedere al passo successivo. Lasciare il plettro inserito aiuta a evitare che la colla appena separata possa aderire di nuovo.
    • Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo inferiore del telefono per tagliare l'adesivo che blocca il vetro posteriore.

    • Eseguita questa parte, può essere utile lasciare il plettro in posizione e utilizzarne un altro per procedere al passo successivo. Lasciare il plettro inserito aiuta a evitare che la colla appena separata possa aderire di nuovo.

    • Scalda di nuovo il vetro posteriore quanto basta per evitare che la colla possa raffreddarsi e indurirsi.

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F - Replica

    I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

    Michael - Replica

  9. Ripeti la procedura di riscaldamento e taglio lungo gli altri tre lati del telefono. Lascia un plettro di apertura sotto ciascuno dei bordi per evitare che l'adesivo si incolli di nuovo. Lascia un plettro di apertura sotto ciascuno dei bordi per evitare che l'adesivo si incolli di nuovo.
    • Ripeti la procedura di riscaldamento e taglio lungo gli altri tre lati del telefono.

    • Lascia un plettro di apertura sotto ciascuno dei bordi per evitare che l'adesivo si incolli di nuovo.

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell - Replica

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD - Replica

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 - Replica

  10. Usa un plettro di apertura per tagliare e staccare tutte le parti di adesivo rimaste. Rimuovi il vetro posteriore.
    • Usa un plettro di apertura per tagliare e staccare tutte le parti di adesivo rimaste.

    • Rimuovi il vetro posteriore.

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott - Replica

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy - Replica

  11. Per installare il nuovo vetro posteriore: Usa delle pinzette per staccare tutto l'adesivo rimasto sulla scocca del telefono.
    • Per installare il nuovo vetro posteriore:

    • Usa delle pinzette per staccare tutto l'adesivo rimasto sulla scocca del telefono.

    • Ripulisci le aree di incollaggio con alcol isopropilico ad elevata concentrazione (almeno 90%) e un panno privo di lanugine. Passa il panno in un'unica direzione, non avanti e indietro. In questo modo prepari la superficie per accogliere il nuovo adesivo.

    • Stacca la pellicola adesiva dal nuovo vetro posteriore, allinea con cura un bordo del vetro contro la scocca dell'S6 e premi con decisione il vetro sul telefono.

    • Se stai rimontando il vecchio vetro posteriore, oppure stai usando un nuovo vetro posteriore privo di adesivo preinstallato, segui questa guida.

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz - Replica

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason - Replica

  12. Rimuovi le 13  viti Phillips #00 da 3,5 mm che fissano il telaio centrale al telefono.
    • Rimuovi le 13 viti Phillips #00 da 3,5 mm che fissano il telaio centrale al telefono.

    Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

    David Whyte - Replica

    Some of the female threads are soft plastic and will strip out easily (especially those near the bottom). I was pressing down too hard when removing these screws, and several of them stripped out. The frame still screwed together, but I couldn’t get them very tight.

    Jordan Butler - Replica

  13. Afferra saldamente i bordi del gruppo telaio centrale. Solleva il gruppo telaio centrale mentre tieni premuta verso il basso la batteria per separare il telaio dal resto del telefono. Mentre sollevi il telaio centrale, stai attento a non impigliarlo sul jack cuffie o sulla porta di ricarica.
    • Afferra saldamente i bordi del gruppo telaio centrale.

    • Solleva il gruppo telaio centrale mentre tieni premuta verso il basso la batteria per separare il telaio dal resto del telefono.

    • Mentre sollevi il telaio centrale, stai attento a non impigliarlo sul jack cuffie o sulla porta di ricarica.

    • Una volta che il telaio centrale è parzialmente separato, fai scorrere con attenzione un plettro attorno ai bordi restanti del telefono per separare la parte superiore del telaio centrale.

    • Stai attento a non infilare per sbaglio il plettro tra il vetro e lo schermo.

    • Per evitare di danneggiare la porta jack, rimuovi prima la parte superiore del telaio centrale, quindi spingi verso il basso il telaio per sganciarlo dalla porta jack.

    • Se non riesci a separare il telaio, devi forse riscaldare e applicare un iOpener sui bordi del display per ammorbidire l'adesivo dello schermo.

    FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

    Armen Orbelyan - Replica

    Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

    zikal - Replica

    I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

    databeat1 - Replica

    I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

    Anton -

    i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

    get it fixed - Replica

    When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

    Alex Philip - Replica

    Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

    Daniel Yaben - Replica

    On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

    Brian Hardie - Replica

    Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

    Thomas Hayes - Replica

  14. Solleva il gruppo telaio centrale per separarlo dal resto del telefono.
    • Solleva il gruppo telaio centrale per separarlo dal resto del telefono.

    Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

    TheECanyon - Replica

  15. Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, disconnetti il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre. Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, disconnetti il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.
    • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, disconnetti il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.

  16. Inserisci una levetta di apertura tra il case e la batteria. Stai attento a mantenere la levetta il più possibile piatta per evitare di deformare la batteria, che potrebbe danneggiarsi e rilasciare sostanze chimiche pericolose. Inserisci la levetta più in profondità per separare la batteria dal telefono.
    • Inserisci una levetta di apertura tra il case e la batteria.

    • Stai attento a mantenere la levetta il più possibile piatta per evitare di deformare la batteria, che potrebbe danneggiarsi e rilasciare sostanze chimiche pericolose.

    • Inserisci la levetta più in profondità per separare la batteria dal telefono.

    • Se la colla della batteria oppone una resistenza troppo alta alla levetta, metti un iOpener caldo sulla batteria per allentare l'adesivo.

    • Non far leva contro la scheda madre: potresti danneggiare il telefono.

    Do you have to remove the battery to remove the motherboard? I just need to remove the motherboard for soldering.

    Jake - Replica

    No, it is not necessary to remove the battery.

    cityzen -

    However, it makes it easier to handle the phone with the battery taken off.

    Ben -

    I used a trick from a different phone tear down, but it really helps, slip a length of dental floss under the top edge of the battery, then with a back and forth action of the floss, you can slice through the adhesive and easily remove the battery, worked great on this phone.

    danechapman - Replica

    Dude that's awesome, wish someone would have mentioned this a long time ago. Battery removal can be a pain. Defiantly going to try that sometime soon!

    Felix Robinson -

    Best tip ever!

    vbgagnon -

    Awesome. Thanks!!!

    Gary Vaughan Jr - Replica

    For me, the battery removal was probably as difficult. maybe more so than removing the back or mid-frame. The adhesive on the left side woudn’t let go and the plastic pick couldn’t reach the left-side adhesive to release it. I finally got it through perseverance though.

    Wayne Thomason - Replica

    I heated the battery area for two minutes. Pried slowly with a plastic pic on the outside edge and around the top. Got the center top corner up slightly and used the dental floss trick. Worked well!

    Thomas Hayes - Replica

    IFixit makes a tool about 5 inches long with a black plastic handle and a flat metal blade that is great for this. It’s a perfect prying tool. It’s about 4 inches of thicker plastic handle and 1 inch of steel blade. I would think if it was a sharp blade, it would be ideal for slicing through this type of adhesive. Like the dental floss idea also. Will try that on the next one.

    Rex Burrus - Replica

    The steel blade tool is also great for removing the battery adhesive and back adhesive. Use like a dull chisel scraping up small chunks until done.

    Rex Burrus - Replica

    Hi Rex,

    I think the tool you are thinking of is the Jimmy! It is indeed a versatile tool for many opening purposes. However, we do not recommend it for battery removal, as the dull metal blade can still slice through the battery pouch.

    Arthur Shi -

    the battery was pretty tough for me. I used two of the blue picks and lots of isopropanol wipes.

    Michael - Replica

  17. Rimuovi la batteria dal telefono. Non usare di nuovo la batteria dopo che è stata rimossa, perché questa azione è potenzialmente pericolosa. Sostituiscila con una batteria nuova.
    • Rimuovi la batteria dal telefono.

    • Non usare di nuovo la batteria dopo che è stata rimossa, perché questa azione è potenzialmente pericolosa. Sostituiscila con una batteria nuova.

    • Per installare una nuova batteria segui queste istruzioni.

    again, mine a UK version was very sticky beware!!

    databeat1 - Replica

    Yes the UK version is very well glued in. I recommend using a flat metal spudger and pushing it in from the bottom right side and then continue doing the same working up. This method seems to be the safest and only takes a minute or two

    martywild10 -

    I used a credit card and a bit of hair dryer to ease it out.

    adele - Replica

    The top of the battery is important to position the cable. Too low and the cable will not reach.

    herbniek - Replica

    how do you put it back together is the real question

    fares - Replica

    check out the guides for “battery adhesive” and replacement of “rear glass”.

    Michael -

    Why can't we re use the same battery?

    Sare - Replica

    There is a significant chance that you may have damaged the battery during the removal process, which can result in an internal short and fire hazard in the future. We strongly advise not to re-use the battery once you have removed it.

    Arthur Shi -

    Note that the power button won’t work until the screws are tightened back into the midframe. I tried to turn it on before inserting the screws to the midframe and was worried that I broke something when it wouldn’t turn on. Tightening the screws fixed the issue.

    Also, attaching the battery cable before placing the battery on the new adhesive makes sure that it is in the correct position.

    Geoff Johnston - Replica

  18. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per disconnettere i connettori dei cavi delle antenne Bluetooth e Wi-Fi dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per disconnettere i connettori dei cavi delle antenne Bluetooth e Wi-Fi dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per disconnettere i connettori dei cavi delle antenne Bluetooth e Wi-Fi dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre.
    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per disconnettere i connettori dei cavi delle antenne Bluetooth e Wi-Fi dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre.

    This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.

    Sebastian Diaz - Replica

  19. Disconnetti il connettore del tasto home con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger. Disconnetti il connettore del tasto home con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger.
    • Disconnetti il connettore del tasto home con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger.

  20. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo del gruppo display dalla scheda madre. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo del gruppo display dalla scheda madre.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo del gruppo display dalla scheda madre.

    Does taking the motherboard out wipe the phone?

    Uil'yam - Replica

    No, after disconnecting the battery there’s no way for info to be moved from the memory, until it’s connected to a power source again.

    Wayne Lyell - Replica

  21. Disconnetti il connettore del cavo del gruppo altoparlante voce dalla scheda madre. Disconnetti il connettore del cavo del gruppo altoparlante voce dalla scheda madre.
    • Disconnetti il connettore del cavo del gruppo altoparlante voce dalla scheda madre.

  22. Solleva la scheda madre dal lato della fotocamera per separarla dal telaio del display. Può essere necessario spostare alcuni cavi a nastro che potrebbero intralciare la rimozione della scheda madre. Se la scheda oppone resistenza al distacco, controlla che sia completamente di sconnessa e non impigliata in alcun cavo a nastro.
    • Solleva la scheda madre dal lato della fotocamera per separarla dal telaio del display.

    • Può essere necessario spostare alcuni cavi a nastro che potrebbero intralciare la rimozione della scheda madre. Se la scheda oppone resistenza al distacco, controlla che sia completamente di sconnessa e non impigliata in alcun cavo a nastro.

    • Non rimuovere ancora completamente la scheda madre – un cavo piatto collega la scheda figlia alla parte inferiore della scheda madre.

  23. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo a nastro della scheda figlia dal suo zoccolo sulla parte inferiore della scheda madre. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo a nastro della scheda figlia dal suo zoccolo sulla parte inferiore della scheda madre.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo a nastro della scheda figlia dal suo zoccolo sulla parte inferiore della scheda madre.

  24. Se il vetro del display è seriamente crepato, disponi del nastro adesivo sul vetro per contenere le schegge in rendere più facile il distacco. Riscalda l'iOpener.
    • Se il vetro del display è seriamente crepato, disponi del nastro adesivo sul vetro per contenere le schegge in rendere più facile il distacco.

    • Riscalda l'iOpener.

    • Metti l'iOpener sopra lo schermo dell'S6. Dopo due minuti sposta l'iOpener sull'altra metà dello schermo.

    • Può rendersi necessario scaldare di nuovo e riapplicare l'iOpener per diverse volte perché il telefono sia abbastanza caldo. Segui le istruzioni dell'iOpener per evitare il surriscaldamento.

  25. Inserisci il plettro di apertura orientandolo verso l'alto, tra il telaio e il display, angolato verso l'alto. Se la procedura è eseguita bene, si aprirà una fessura fra il telaio dello schermo e il gruppo display. Se la procedura non è eseguita bene, si vedrà la levetta attraverso il vetro. In tal caso, rimuovi la levetta e ricomincia.
    • Inserisci il plettro di apertura orientandolo verso l'alto, tra il telaio e il display, angolato verso l'alto.

    • Se la procedura è eseguita bene, si aprirà una fessura fra il telaio dello schermo e il gruppo display.

    • Se la procedura non è eseguita bene, si vedrà la levetta attraverso il vetro. In tal caso, rimuovi la levetta e ricomincia.

    I was too vigorous with the pick, and maybe not pointed up (away from the glass) enough, but I got the pick far enough into the digitiser that it peeled the glass off of the digitiser. Ruined it. If you can see the pick through the glass STOP.

    Buck - Replica

    in my own opinion, a better/easier method is to actually remove the battery after disconnecting all of the connections from the daughter/logic board, and if you slide a pick inbetween the plastic to where its visible where the battery originally was, you’re doing it correctly. if you can see it through the glass screen as if you were looking at your phone, you’re going between the LCD/Digitizer Assembly, and the Protective Glass Screen Overlay. If you’re removing the LCD/Digitizer/Glass Screen as a Whole, being able to see the pick through the battery compartment is a great, and easy way to know youre okay. This is a Great repair guide, but Repairs Universe on YT did an extremely thorough job on walking me through the replacement procedure and LCD&Digitzer removal.

    Josh Baldwin - Replica

    Hi Josh,

    I agree that having that visual cue is a very handy option. If you are also replacing the battery, this is a great option!

    We opted not to suggest battery removal because of safety reasons. We recommend against re-installing used batteries. Any prying action or bend could have compromised the battery even if you can’t see it, and cause problems in the long term.

    Arthur Shi -

  26. Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura lungo il bordo del display per separare l'adesivo sottostante. Smetti di tagliare quando arrivi alla scheda figlia per evitare di toccare il delicato pulsante capacitivo sotto il display.
    • Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura lungo il bordo del display per separare l'adesivo sottostante.

    • Smetti di tagliare quando arrivi alla scheda figlia per evitare di toccare il delicato pulsante capacitivo sotto il display.

    • Se in qualche punto il taglio della colla diventa difficile, scalda di nuovo applicando l'iOpener.

    • Dopo aver tagliato l'adesivo, lascia il plettro a lato del display per evitare che il display possa incollarsi di nuovo al telaio.

  27. Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura lungo il bordo inferiore del telefono, dal jack cuffie fino a poco oltre la porta di ricarica. Non inserire il plettro di apertura per più di 6 mm per evitare di danneggiare il pulsante home.
    • Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura lungo il bordo inferiore del telefono, dal jack cuffie fino a poco oltre la porta di ricarica.

    • Non inserire il plettro di apertura per più di 6 mm per evitare di danneggiare il pulsante home.

  28. Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto l'angolo inferiore del display, vicino al jack cuffie, fino a una profondità di circa 12 mm. Tieni d'occhio con molta attenzione il cavo a nastro del pulsante quando inserisci il plettro. Il cavo è fragile ed è facile strapparlo. Se il plettro fa resistenza all'inserimento o il cavo inizia a stirarsi, applica ancora calore.
    • Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto l'angolo inferiore del display, vicino al jack cuffie, fino a una profondità di circa 12 mm.

    • Tieni d'occhio con molta attenzione il cavo a nastro del pulsante quando inserisci il plettro. Il cavo è fragile ed è facile strapparlo. Se il plettro fa resistenza all'inserimento o il cavo inizia a stirarsi, applica ancora calore.

    • Lascia il plettro sotto il display per evitare che il pulsante possa aderire di nuovo allo schermo.

    • Se rompi i pulsanti capacitivi o i cavi a nastro, puoi sostituire il gruppo scheda figlia, che comprende nuovi pulsanti capacitivi.

  29. Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto l'angolo inferiore opposto del display, fino a una profondità di circa 12 mm. Tieni d'occhio con molta attenzione il cavo a nastro del pulsante quando inserisci il plettro. Il cavo è fragile ed è facile strapparlo. Se il plettro fa resistenza all'inserimento o il cavo inizia a stirarsi, applica ancora calore.
    • Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto l'angolo inferiore opposto del display, fino a una profondità di circa 12 mm.

    • Tieni d'occhio con molta attenzione il cavo a nastro del pulsante quando inserisci il plettro. Il cavo è fragile ed è facile strapparlo. Se il plettro fa resistenza all'inserimento o il cavo inizia a stirarsi, applica ancora calore.

    • Lascia il plettro sotto il display per evitare che il pulsante possa aderire di nuovo allo schermo.

  30. Fai scorrere un plettro di apertura lungo il lato del telefono dal lato opposto alla batteria per separare l'adesivo sottostante. Dopo aver tagliato l'adesivo, lascia il plettro sotto il display per evitare che il pulsante possa aderire di nuovo allo schermo.
    • Fai scorrere un plettro di apertura lungo il lato del telefono dal lato opposto alla batteria per separare l'adesivo sottostante.

    • Dopo aver tagliato l'adesivo, lascia il plettro sotto il display per evitare che il pulsante possa aderire di nuovo allo schermo.

  31. Fai scorrere un plettro di apertura lungo il bordo superiore del telefono, verso il motore di vibrazione. Tira leggermente verso l'esterno il plettro per evitare la griglia dell'altoparlante voce. Tira leggermente verso l'esterno il plettro per evitare la griglia dell'altoparlante voce.
    • Fai scorrere un plettro di apertura lungo il bordo superiore del telefono, verso il motore di vibrazione.

    • Tira leggermente verso l'esterno il plettro per evitare la griglia dell'altoparlante voce.

  32. Usa un plettro di apertura per staccare delicatamente il bordo lato batteria del telaio dal display. Se il display e il telaio non si separano facilmente, usa un plettro di apertura per tagliare ogni parte di adesivo rimasta. Se il taglio è difficile, riscalda di nuovo applicando l'iOpener.
    • Usa un plettro di apertura per staccare delicatamente il bordo lato batteria del telaio dal display.

    • Se il display e il telaio non si separano facilmente, usa un plettro di apertura per tagliare ogni parte di adesivo rimasta. Se il taglio è difficile, riscalda di nuovo applicando l'iOpener.

    • Aspetta a rimuovere completamente il display. Il cavo del display passa ancora attraverso il telaio.

    This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.

    Felix Robinson - Replica

  33. Fai passare il cavo flessibile del display attraverso la specifica cavità nel telaio per poter separare completamente il bordo destro del display. Fai passare il cavo flessibile del display attraverso la specifica cavità nel telaio per poter separare completamente il bordo destro del display.
    • Fai passare il cavo flessibile del display attraverso la specifica cavità nel telaio per poter separare completamente il bordo destro del display.

  34. Prima di installare un nuovo display, è molto importante rimuovere dal telaio tutte le tracce del vecchio adesivo e al tempo stesso porre particolare attenzione a rimuovere ogni piccolo frammento di vetro.
    • Prima di installare un nuovo display, è molto importante rimuovere dal telaio tutte le tracce del vecchio adesivo e al tempo stesso porre particolare attenzione a rimuovere ogni piccolo frammento di vetro.

    • Dopo aver rimosso ogni traccia di colla e vetro dal telaio, pulisci le aree di incollaggio con alcol isopropilico al 90% (o superiore) e un panno privo di pelucchi oppure un filtro da caffè americano. Passa in una sola direzione, non avanti e indietro.

    • Se il telaio è piegato oppure se sono rimasti dei residui di colla o vetro, il nuovo display non si inserirà correttamente e potrebbe danneggiarsi. Se necessario, sostituisci il telaio.

    • Il miglior modo per fissare il nuovo schermo è con un pezzo di nastro biadesivo tagliato su misura. Applica il nastro nella parte tre dello schermo, poi fai passare, con attenzione, il cavo del display attraverso il telaio. Allinea lo schermo e premilo nella sua posizione.

    Great illustrations and the best tutorial I have seen. Steps are easy and simple to follow.

    Rafael - Replica

    Really good to follow reparing the phone. But i'm afarid of seeing other word like korea

    James - Replica

    C'etait extrêmement difficile pour ma part.

    It was extremely difficult for me.

    Easy Repair - Replica

    Umm, I bought the ifixit screen repair kit and battery repair kit, but you guys never talk about how, when, and where the white adhesive goes, what step, etc… I also have two blue strips that I”m not sure what they’re for. ???

    John R - Replica

  35. Svita l'unica vita Phillips #00 da 3,0 mm che fissa la scheda figlia al telaio del display.
    • Svita l'unica vita Phillips #00 da 3,0 mm che fissa la scheda figlia al telaio del display.

    What happens if that screw isn't there?

    Sare - Replica

  36. Capovolgi il telaio del display in modo che il pulsante home sia di fronte a te. Inserisci la punta di uno spudger nell'incavo vicino al cavo LED del pulsante menu destro. Solleva con cautela il cavo LED dal telaio del display.
    • Capovolgi il telaio del display in modo che il pulsante home sia di fronte a te.

    • Inserisci la punta di uno spudger nell'incavo vicino al cavo LED del pulsante menu destro.

    • Solleva con cautela il cavo LED dal telaio del display.

    • Stai attento a non strappare questi cavi delicati mentre li stacchi dal telaio di plastica.

    I was transferring the daughterboard to a different frame. Flipped up the led cables and realized that the LEDs remained in the recessed area on the old frame. I thought these LEDs would peel off as a unit with the cables. It did not. Is this normal?

    Lloyd Campbell - Replica

  37. Inserisci la punta di uno spudger nell'incavo vicino al cavo LED del pulsante menu sinistro. Solleva il cavo LED del pulsante menu sinistro dal telaio di plastica. Solleva il cavo LED del pulsante menu sinistro dal telaio di plastica.
    • Inserisci la punta di uno spudger nell'incavo vicino al cavo LED del pulsante menu sinistro.

    • Solleva il cavo LED del pulsante menu sinistro dal telaio di plastica.

  38. Capovolgi di nuovo il telaio e solleva la scheda figlia per staccarla dal telaio del display. Capovolgi di nuovo il telaio e solleva la scheda figlia per staccarla dal telaio del display. Capovolgi di nuovo il telaio e solleva la scheda figlia per staccarla dal telaio del display.
    • Capovolgi di nuovo il telaio e solleva la scheda figlia per staccarla dal telaio del display.

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso. Segui questa guida per reinstallare il vetro posteriore.

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Dante Mazzanti

Membro da: 13/07/2015

34.993 Reputazione

26 Guide realizzate

Step 41

I could not find any led cables... after the repair the led soft keys work and vibrate but do not light up... anyway to fix this problem? Fixing g925a

Devin Gonzales - Replica

It seems like you've damaged the Flex oder the Button itself. If youve allready checked the connection to Motherboard, then you need to replace the Daughterboard to solve the issue

Patrick -

For step 41

I could not find and led cables to remove... and after there repair the led light forsaken the soft keys do not light up but they do work and vibrate... what should I do?

Devin Gonzales - Replica

I would definitely recommend heating and prying before carrying out step 17. There is a lot of glue holding the frame together and not heating and prying could easily lead to screen damage.

Marty - Replica

STEP 30 - What about the glue between the plastic frame and display assembly. Is there a product to use to glue it up again?

aaron - Replica

Do you know if coaxial antenna cable from s6 edge works on s6? I managed to broke it and i dont find to buy for s6.

Tracke - Replica

Hello, I replaced the "daughter board" thinking it would fix my microphone issue but it did not. I tried restoring the phone and still nothing. I have no water damage. Does anyone have any suggestions? Please help.

drumerkid424 - Replica

Often times you can fix mic. issues by turning off noise cancellation in the settings. Especially if you sound like you are in a tunnel or there is a lot of echo.

Reid Nuttall -

It could be incompatible. There are about 10 different charging ports made for this Galaxy s6 and its variations. If the wrong one from the wrong network is put in sometimes cables don't reach and additional problems due to a mismatch may occur.

The void spaces in the device's frame allow the correct board and board components to fit. Correctly matched parts allow the mother/daughter board to fit flat (as designed) and go back together once you are done replacing parts. If a mic does not match up to it's hole through the frame, you might block sound. Look at the frame to the right of the charging port while the screen is face up. If that hole is clogged it should be cleaned. If the sound quality improves, than I would probably consider opening it up to clean the inside of the frame and the mic.

One more thing. A microphone actually. With your phone's back side down, viewing from the top, there is a microphone hole just to the left of the infrared blaster. I do believe this one is attached to the motherboard.

Raymond Vassil - Replica

Doing it this way is terrible, and for the most part worthless, unless the screen is already damaged.

The only safe way to replace the charging port is to desolder it and resolder a new one on. Otherwise...

kyle - Replica

What? I bought a board for £6 on eBay and fitted no issue. Have you soldered a plug on? Good luck!

derek -

I have carried out the repair and the phone is now chargeing shown by the led's at the top of the screen however the LCD is not powering on and the phone does not vibrate when I hold down the button any help would be appreciated

jack moffett - Replica

Same problem, my screen wont come on! :(

mistikempire -

I have a problem where when i connect the charger to my phone (Samsung galaxy s6) and it does not charge my phone, I don't think my charger or my cable have problem because I had try to connect to other gadget and its charging, my question is ,is it my phone has a problem at charging daughter board or the problem is at the other place like maybe I should change the charger or somethg.

Akmal aslan - Replica

If charging port not working then you can get an induction charger and charge it wirelessly. This has worked for my son's phone with no problems.

Alex Robertson -

I just started having this problem as well. A newly purchased induction charger is also not charging the battery. The Qi pad seems to detect that the phone is placed on top, but the phone does not register any charge. Also, the USB charge cable sometimes is detected for a few seconds and charge is briefly indicated, then the phone no longer recognizes the cable or the charger.

Nelson Butterworth -

I tore the copper foil on the back of the display assembly in step 39.

What is it for? Can it be replaced?

AjL - Replica

Well, when removing the display assembly, it turned out I first removed only the glass, and after attempting to remove the LCD, I broke it. Word of caution - the LCD is very fragile - it breaks even with a very light bend.

Boris Lazarov - Replica

The glass back is very difficult to get off. I recommend using a heat gun or hair dryer.

Ryan Ho - Replica

but what if it breaks it

Jacob Wander - Replica

what if it breaks the phone?

Jacob Wander - Replica

Unless your very lucky, you will break your screen if you do this that way. Do this only if you replace your screen too!

Cabrini Vincent - Replica

My phone is not charging but overheating is this the problem with the daugther board??

Marko Shen - Replica

CAUTION: Don’t do this repair unless you really can’t use the phone. Removing the display to replace the charger port is tantamount to madness . The display very likely to get damaged. I did this all very carefully and came out with half a dead digitizer (touch screen) . You can easily destroy the display, and the LED sensor backlights are delicate to place. You’ll need to buy a new front glue film stencil because you aren’t replacing with a new screen. I would much rather have lived with the charging problem than with a dead screen. A huge problem with the above method is guaranteeing you are separating the right layer - When I inserted the pick at the first point, it came through underneath the black insulation film stuck to the screen. https://youtu.be/Ghh_CQnh_yk tells you how to avoid this. Many other videos such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnQFtcTj... show you can try re-soldering the USB port without messing with the screen.

I C - Replica

Also, since every s6 repair starts with “remove the back glass” it should be much more widely stated: Removing the back glass will damage it! At the very least, your entry point is likely to chip some paint off near the edge. Sliding even a thin plastic wedge will do this. The paint separates easily from the glass - either due to aging or the heat you just applied! Unless you have the right heating equipment with temp control and know exactly what you are doing - and even then I doubt it will be perfect. The videos don’t show up the small chips. You could live with the damage, if its minor, but your phone won’t be perfect . In my case the pain came off in great sheets, so I scraped it all off and had a transparent back! Just take the hit and get a new back glass and glue stencil along with your replacement parts. Same applies to the paint on the edges of the front (LCD) panel - and there the solution of getting a new one is not an option (unless its broken).

I C - Replica

I carried out the repair successfully partially following this guide. I am an experienced technician and have carried out several similar repairs. I have damaged the screen only on one occasion. I usually do not remove the lcd completely but only de-glue/separate the bottom part of the screen from the frame to make enough room to remove the daughterboard flexes (soft buttons). A safer way to separate the screen is use a thin laminated playing card and insert it gently, after applying heat, in between the frame and LCD assembly from the back of the LCD instead of using a pick.

Mirco Scaramucci - Replica

Does this guide also work with Galaxy s6+ edge?

Lolypopxp Warcrafter - Replica

Since replacing a daughter board on a s6 I no longer pick up signal on the phone. Any ideas how I can resolve this ?

thanks

Lochlan chamberlin - Replica

Blue dot of death, after following instructions. Am I screwed?

Thanks

Lowell Sonne - Replica

So I followed this procedure, tore the foil on the back of the screen as I was removing it. Not sure if that’s an issue, but after reassembly, the phone will not turn on. The screen is black occasionally flickering like it’s trying to come on, and the blue LED is on constant. None of the buttons work, even to try to force it to shut down. The only way to get the LED to turn off and the screen to stop flickering is to unplug the battery. I replaced the battery and the daughterboard. Haven’t applied any new adhesive yet, so I can still easily disassemble the phone. Any advice?

Marshall Peters - Replica

Samsung are evil for creating the phone like this. Having to remove the screen to replace the charging port is just a bad design choice. Luckily they sorted it out later on and now the charging port on later Samsung phones comes out on its own. The screen will almost certainly be damaged or even destroyed during this repair.

John Sinclair - Replica

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