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Introduzione

Segui questa guida per sostituire la scheda I/O, che include le porte jack, USB e MagSafe 2, sul tuo MacBook Air da 13" di inizio 2015.

  1. Prima di procedere, spegni il tuo Macbook. Chiudi il display e appoggialo su una superficie morbida, con la parte superiore in basso.
    • Prima di procedere, spegni il tuo Macbook. Chiudi il display e appoggialo su una superficie morbida, con la parte superiore in basso.

    • Usa un cacciavite P5 Pentalobe per rimuovere le dieci viti che tengono in posizione il case inferiore, delle seguenti lunghezze:

    • Due viti da 9 mm

    • Otto viti da 2,6 mm

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Replica

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Replica

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Replica

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Replica

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Replica

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Replica

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Replica

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Replica

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Replica

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Replica

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Replica

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Replica

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Replica

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Replica

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Replica

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Replica

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Replica

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Replica

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Replica

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Replica

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Replica

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Replica

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Replica

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Replica

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Replica

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Replica

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Replica

  2. Inserisci le tue dita tra il display e il case inferiore e tira verso l'alto per separare il case inferiore dal MacBook Air.
    • Inserisci le tue dita tra il display e il case inferiore e tira verso l'alto per separare il case inferiore dal MacBook Air.

    • Rimuovi il case inferiore e mettilo da parte.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Replica

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Replica

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Replica

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Replica

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Replica

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Replica

  3. Per assicurarti che nulla sia alimentato e non si possa accendere mentre stai lavorando, è raccomandato scollegare la batteria. Afferra la piccola striscia di plastica trasparente attaccata al connettore della batteria e tirala parallelamente alla scheda verso il bordo anteriore dell'Air.
    • Per assicurarti che nulla sia alimentato e non si possa accendere mentre stai lavorando, è raccomandato scollegare la batteria.

    • Afferra la piccola striscia di plastica trasparente attaccata al connettore della batteria e tirala parallelamente alla scheda verso il bordo anteriore dell'Air.

    • Non sollevare il connettore per disconnetterlo in quanto potresti danneggiarne l'alloggiamento.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Replica

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Replica

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Replica

  4. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo della scheda I/O e scollegarlo dalla presa sulla scheda I/O.
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo della scheda I/O e scollegarlo dalla presa sulla scheda I/O.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Replica

  5. Scolla delicatamente il cavo della scheda I/O dall'adesivo che le tiene fermo sopra la ventola.
    • Scolla delicatamente il cavo della scheda I/O dall'adesivo che le tiene fermo sopra la ventola.

    • Quando riassembli, assicurati che il cavo sia posizionato correttamente. Può essere inserito al contrario ma il portatile non si avvierà.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Replica

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - Replica

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - Replica

  6. Il seguente connettore ha una presa specialmente profonda. Presta attenzione quando lo scolleghi. Mentre tiri delicatamente il cavo vicino alla sua presa sulla scheda madre, usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per far leva su entrambi i lati del connettore alternandoli per muoverlo man mano verso l'alto e scollegarlo.
    • Il seguente connettore ha una presa specialmente profonda. Presta attenzione quando lo scolleghi.

    • Mentre tiri delicatamente il cavo vicino alla sua presa sulla scheda madre, usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per far leva su entrambi i lati del connettore alternandoli per muoverlo man mano verso l'alto e scollegarlo.

    • Rimuovi il cavo della scheda I/O.

  7. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF della ventola.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF della ventola.

    • Assicurati di fare leva sull'aletta e non sul connettore.

    Hi, I messed up the socket, is there a replacement for the socket that holds the fans wire.

    leonzar - Replica

    macbook air 13" early 2015

    leonzar - Replica

    The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!

    John McClung - Replica

    Thank you so much! Without your comment, I wouldn’t of realized that the ribbon cable is supposed to go into the socket (I know, dumb mistake now that I think about it). You also made me go back and correctly insert the microphone cable. Cheers!

    Nolan Shaffer - Replica

    After my repair, my fan is super loud now! Any tips?

    heathergminchen - Replica

    I didn’t find any need to unplug the fan. All I did was remove the three screws which hold the fan to the case and gently fold the fan out of the way. All you are trying to do is gain enough room to route the camera cable into the little cut-out in the I/O board so it can go below the board along the edge of the fan.

    BobY - Replica

  8. Scolla la guarnizione in gomma dall'adesivo che la fissa sopra la ventola.
    • Scolla la guarnizione in gomma dall'adesivo che la fissa sopra la ventola.

    Note this is not telling you remove the gasket, just separate it from the fan.

    BobY - Replica

  9. Svita le seguenti viti che tengono ferma la ventola nella scocca superiore:
    • Svita le seguenti viti che tengono ferma la ventola nella scocca superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,2 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,3 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 4,4 mm con la testa corta

    I was unable to remove the 4.4 mm screw with the T5. I needed to use the T4 to get a grip so I didn’t strip the head.

    grahammartin - Replica

    The 3.3mm Torx is actually a 4.4mm

    georgeantoniades - Replica

  10. Solleva la ventola dal lato della scheda I/O e rimuovila dalla scocca superiore. Rimuovere la ventola scollegherà anche il suo cavo a nastro: stai attento a non strapparlo.
    • Solleva la ventola dal lato della scheda I/O e rimuovila dalla scocca superiore.

    • Rimuovere la ventola scollegherà anche il suo cavo a nastro: stai attento a non strapparlo.

    I didn’t find any need to remove the fan. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board by just tilting the edge of the fan nearest the I/O board up and out of the way (pretty much what is being shown in the picture above).

    BobY - Replica

  11. Scollega la scheda I/O tirando il suo cavo di alimentazione fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.
    • Scollega la scheda I/O tirando il suo cavo di alimentazione fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.

    • Tira il cavo parallelamente alla faccia della scheda madre verso il bordo destro del MacBook Air.

    The connector has a latch (at least mine does) that prevents it from simply sliding out. To release it, I inserted a 5/64 flathead screwdriver to lift the edge of the socket. Then the jack and cable easily slides out.

    Rick Silton - Replica

    I didn’t find any need to disconnect or remove the I/O board. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board without doing anything to the I/O board.

    BobY - Replica

  12. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore dello speaker sinistro dalla sua presa sulla scheda I/O. Fai leva da sotto i cavi.
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore dello speaker sinistro dalla sua presa sulla scheda I/O.

    • Fai leva da sotto i cavi.

    when i did this the whole socket came off the board and i had to get a replacement i/o board. Be warned, do this very carefully and avoid my mistake

    ForceGhostJeremy - Replica

    I didn’t find any need to do anything to the I/O board/cables. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board without doing anything to the I/O board or any of the cables attached to it.

    BobY - Replica

  13. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del microfono. Assicurati di fare leva sull'aletta e non sul connettore.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del microfono.

    • Assicurati di fare leva sull'aletta e non sul connettore.

    There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.

    Brant Smith - Replica

    The note about the black tape should be in RED in the main text above. I broke off the connector thinking the tape was part of the cable assembly. Always read the comments. Always. : )

    Jon Lucenius - Replica

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find a need to do any of this.

    BobY - Replica

  14. Svita la vite Torx T5 da 4,1 mm che tiene ferma la scheda I/O sulla scocca superiore.
    • Svita la vite Torx T5 da 4,1 mm che tiene ferma la scheda I/O sulla scocca superiore.

    Steps 14-15 & 28-29 seem unnecessary. I managed to replace the logic board without removing the I/O board or right speaker, although that means the logic board cannot be removed easily - the right rear corner is hindered by part of the chassis so that the edge of the logic board facing the battery should be lifted gently first and then the board be slid away from that obstructing part.

    Wai Wong - Replica

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find a need to do any of this.

    BobY - Replica

  15. Delicatamente sfila il cavo della camera dall'apposita rientranza nella scheda I/O e spostalo da parte con la punta di uno spudger. Delicatamente sfila il cavo della camera dall'apposita rientranza nella scheda I/O e spostalo da parte con la punta di uno spudger.
    • Delicatamente sfila il cavo della camera dall'apposita rientranza nella scheda I/O e spostalo da parte con la punta di uno spudger.

  16. Solleva la scheda I/O dalla parte  vicino alla scheda madre e rimuovila dalla scocca superiore.
    • Solleva la scheda I/O dalla parte vicino alla scheda madre e rimuovila dalla scocca superiore.

    • Rimuovere la scheda I/O scollegherà anche il cavo del microfono: stai attento a non strapparlo.

    The I/O board does not need to be removed to remove the display.

    Macman - Replica

    Nor for the logic board removal

    maccentric - Replica

    The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.

    Richard Garella - Replica

    how do I reattach the riibbon cable now that the adhesive has been removed?

    Nolan Shaffer -

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find any need to do this.

    BobY - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova a leggere come identificare problemi, o chiedi sulla nostra comunità Risposte per ulteriore aiuto.

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iRobot

Membro da: 24/09/2009

1 Reputazione

648 Guide realizzate

Ich habe ein Macbook Air 2015 early. Das Ladekabel leuchtet nicht und die Batterie wird nicht geladen, ohne Batterie läuft das Macbook und auch solange die Batterie geladen ist läuft es einwandfrei auch ohne Ladekabel. Woher bekomme ich das I-O board und denkt ihr es liegt am I-O board oder eher irgendwo auf dem Mainboard das Problem?

Firsttry - Replica

I wish I could give more points because this saved a laptop! Killed another, but 1 is better than none.

Jonathan - Replica

I successfully fixed my Macbook Air early 2015. Power cord LED indicator was dark and the battery was not charging. This was because my power supply blew up while stuck within the couch and went dangerously hot. Power supply died as the IO Board too.

Replacing the IO Board fixed my Macbook.

DavidW - Replica

Hi . I replaced my IO board because the power socket was burned. With the new board the Macbook air mid 2011 was running very slow. Changed back to the old one and computer was running as normal. Any Ideas why the new IO board was slowing the computer down. The USB port in the new board was also not working.

Karl-Ivan Vikestad - Replica

Thanks so much for putting this guide together; it worked a treat on a 2017 MacBook Air.

miles - Replica

Thanks for this. I had a liquid spill and afterwards my IO Ribbon cable was getting extremely hot! Removed IO board, cleaned it with a sonicare toothbrush and electrical contact cleaner fluid, reassembled and now all is well

kwilliam - Replica

Mymagsafe light indicator was not lighting up so I replaced the IO board. Unfortunately it didn’t solve the issue. What could it be?

JERAMIE ARGUETA - Replica

i have macbook air 2015 charger light not on

eric def - Replica

The new I/O road had a thin blue plastic adhesive film surrounding the MagSafe contacts. At first I thought it was for insulating it from the aluminum case but the old I/O board didn'‘t have an “insulator so I removed it. I hope that was correct. There was no mention of this in any of the instructions. Any advise?

Roger Diener - Replica

Hi Roger! That sounds like protective wrapping and should be removed.

Arthur Shi -

Super bien fait, tuto parfait

BRAVO

et merci

David de Bros - Replica

my macbook’s left I/O board and flex cable have been replaced after I spilled milk tea on it. However the battery won’t charge after the replacement and any new charger connected will charge it for a while and then stop

maaas - Replica

The spill may have damaged the battery too.

Daniele Carminati -

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