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Introduzione
Rimuovi il pannello frontale di protezione dello schermo superiore per sostituirla o accedere ai componenti nel gruppo dello schermo superiore.
Cosa ti serve
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Svita le quattro viti a croce Phillips #00 lungo il bordo superiore della cover posteriore.
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Afferra il bordo superiore della cover posteriore con l'altra mano in modo che non ritorni al suo posto da sola.
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Tira la cover verso l'alto per rimuoverla dal dispositivo.
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Infila uno strumento di apertura in plastica nella fessura nella scocca inferiore sopra la batteria.
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Fai leva con lo strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevare la batteria.
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Afferra il bordo superiore della batteria e sollevalo dalla scocca inferiore.
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Svita le nove viti a croce Phillips nere da 6,3 mm sulla scocca inferiore.
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Svita la vite a croce Phillips cromata da 2,4 mm sopra il lettore delle cartucce di gioco.
Stuck at the same spot, those screws are in there really tight.
I had so much trouble with these screws, I gave up. Unfortunately, I can't accept failure so tried again. I figured out if you turn it right before you loosen it worked. Maybe it was just me, but I turned it right then kept pressure as I turned to loosen. I was surprised I hadn't stripped any screws out.
Does anyone have any idea of how to remove these screws. I've pretty badly stripped the screws and I've gone to 20+ pages trying to figure this. I'm considering just prying the !@#$ thing.
use a dremil and make it a flat head
ruined my screws here too...what the !@#$ nintendo?
trying to survive a nuclear meltdown inside the !@#$ thing
More like trying to subtly enforce planned obsolescence by not allowing you to make repairs to your device.
Ullyssys -
I used a #00 Philips 1/8" bit with no problem; however, the narrow diameter of the counter sunk hole can inhibit making secure contact with the screw head. You can be using the right bit (#00) but if the diameter of the bit shaft is too big you won't get proper contact.
I found this to be an excellent guide. Thanks
The screws didn't strip but the philips screw driver did? @__@
These are rough either way.
I used a "Whia 273 - PH000x40" screwdriver and held it firmly pushing the palm of my hand on the yellow end of the screwdriver and rocked the screw slightly (counter clockwise and clockwise) until it started to move. Then, without letting up on the pressure I carefully backed it out. The screwdriver is excellent because it is hardened (unlike some cheapo's out there) and the very tip is blunt not sharp. If the tip is too sharp, the point will bottom out in the screw and the sides that do all the work, won't be able to fully contact the inside of the screw. This screwdriver fits so well that the screws actually stick to it once they are removed. If the screwdriver moves AT ALL when you initially try it in the screw, STOP and find a better one. Also, start with the screws in the center, somehow they seem a little easier until you get the feel for it.
Paul -
Had the exact same problem, even tried the #000 screw driver too. Stripped the screws due to how tightly they are screwed in there and how easy they strip. I am now unsure what to do from here or if all I can do is give up.
I second the one who suggested the Whia 273 PH000x40 screwdriver. I had a terrible time unscrewing these screws, and almost stripped them using a cheaper #000 screwdriver. Also tried a 3/16" flathead and destroyed the screwdriver. I bought the Whia and glad I did. It fit perfectly and did not slip at all. DEFINITELY recommend purchasing this high-quality screwdriver. Cost about $10 but well worth it to avoid the hassle.
The best way I found that works quite well, if you find a screwdriver or bit that is good enough: hold the screwdriver or bit with tons of pressure, and rotate the 3DS clockwise! It will come out in 5-6 rotations, you can do this step in about 10 minutes this way (put down a cloth first, don't scratch the front!)
I HAVE A WAY TO GET OUT THE STRIPED SCREW. Like you, I had screwed up and tried everything to get the screw out. Do NOT try the glue in that tiny hole, you will get the screw glued permanently in there. The rubber band doesn't work in that tight space either. As desperate as I was, I was trying anything from nail polish to cramming the screw driver in as hard as I possible could. Until I realized that I had a drill. Yes, with the smallest head, I drilled into the screw a little bit, messed with the part I was trying to get out, drilled a little more, messed around, and then finally on my last attempt, I had successfully drilled off the top of the screw rendering the part free. It doesn't matter which drill you use as long as you can fit the head into the hole. Then drill forward like you are trying to drill a hole through wood. Now the only problem is that the remainder of the screw will be stuck in its place. All you really have to do is get a set of pliers and twist that puppy out. And there you go!
Got a brand new #00 screw drive and it striped the first time used it. So now I'm using eyeglass repair kit screw driver and it lasts longer that the one I got of of eBay.
And I tried all of those tactics that people have been giving and none of them are working.
Oh god, someone help i can’t get them out.
omg everyone is struggling in here smh. I used my PH000 screwdriver made sure it went in aligned to the screws and applied pressure while turning counterclockwise. once it started the screw started lifting i stopped applying pressure and they lifted beautifully. saved damaging my screws with this technique. I also used the same screwdriver size to remove the orange screw where the game slot is. Yall are welcome lol
USE A DIFFERENT SCREWDRIVER.
I was stuck on this for an hour. If your screwdriver is very thin, you won't get the grip necessary if your screws are on tight. I thought my screws were stripped but I switched to a bigger screwdriver and it was effortless. Just MAKE SURE IT IS A 00 PHILLIPS HEAD.
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Solleva il bordo inferiore della scocca posteriore dal resto del Nintendo 3DS.
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Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per scollegare i connettori dei tasti dorsali dalle loro prese sulla scheda madre sollevandoli.
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Rimuovi la scocca inferiore dal dispositivo.
When assembling, make sure that L ribbon is inside the case and R ribbon is not under the aluminium battery case. I got them both cut accidentally and had to replace :(
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Svita le due viti a croce Phillips da 7,7 mm che fissano il retro della levetta analogica alla scheda madre.
my screws wont stop spining what to i do? i have the same problem with other screws and this leavs my joystick very loss and it is dificult to muve it becuase it is aganst the case not lifted up? any sugestions? (sorry for my bad speling jaja im very bad at speling..)
I think you stripped your screws. I think the best solution is to change the upper cover of the lower assembly and the screws. The fastest, but temporarily is to stick in some way the joystick housing to the cover, but it won’t last long, so do this only if you have to use your console while you wait the cover to come. Anyway, so not overtighten the new screws, or you will be in the same situation once again.
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva sul retro della levetta analogica dalla scheda madre.
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Solleva la levetta analogica dalla scheda madre e appoggiala sul suo retro in modo che il connettore del cavo a nastro sia accessibile.
When reassembling verify that the circle pad control is oriented right. I had to go back in after completion when I realized it wasn't centered.
I would not disable the back side all the way because it could really mess up your 3DS.
From this step, follow this video https://youtu.be/XGdRim2Mvrk?t=627
you can skipp from step 8 to 20
lots of unnecessary steps
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro della levetta analogica.
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Solleva la levetta analogica dalla scheda madre.
Can you replace a zif socket? The little metal pieces on mine broke off...
YOUR &&^&@@ HAHAHAAHA, no you cant you would have to purchase a new motherboard i feek you bro happened in my first time
you might want to find someone who is skilled in component level microsoldering for that
The retaining flap on mine broke off, is there any way to fix it?
Skip steps 8 through 20. It will save a lot of time. Thanks S Maduras for the warning.
Thanks S Maduras! Your tip
made this super easy. No need for steps 8-20.
OH MY GOD THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! I'm sure I would have destroyed my ds if I did all that
Skip steps 8-20 like they said!! Doing all those unnecessary steps wasted so so much time and frustrated me hugely by causing me to damage my microphone ribbon cable…
What do you mean by skipping 8-20? Do I not need to remove the screws in order to replace the lower LCD?
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Usa uno spudger o la punta di un cacciavite per sollevare le guaine e rimuoverle dal dispositivo.
When reassembling, you can use the pointy end of the spudger to align the hold again with the joystick. It’ll probably have bounced around while you’re moving other things.
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Svita le due viti a croce Phillips da 4,5 mm che fissano la scheda del lettore SD alla scheda madre.
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Infila la parte piatta di uno spudger tra la scheda del lettore SD e la scheda madre.
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Fai scorrere lo spudger sotto i bordi della scheda del lettore SD per separarla dall'adesivo che la tiene ferma.
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Una volta liberata, solleva la scheda del lettore SD dalla scheda madre.
be careful on this step, the sd card board is adhered to the rf shield below it, and bay result in the shield becoming bent as it is only soldered on one side. pry from the side of the board facing the cartridge slot.
I didnt notice that and I broke the solders here :(
mine came off will this make the system not power on or make somthing not work? what do i do know?
What did come off? the sd card reader board, or the shield mentioned in the above comment?
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Infila la parte piatta di uno spudger sotto un angolo della scheda WiFi e solleva la scheda dalla scheda madre.
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo dell'antenna sollevandolo dalla sua presa sulla scheda WiFi.
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Rimuovi la scheda WiFi dal dispositivo.
That moment you bought all your supplies and realise while removing the wifi chip the antenna is not plugged in because you forgot to plug it in last time……… Scew me…
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Afferra il cavo a nastro del microfono con un paio di pinzette vicno al microfono stesso.
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Tira il microfono verso l'alto per sfilarlo dalla scocca superiore.
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro del gruppo dello speaker.
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Sfila il cavo a nastro del gruppo dello speaker dalla sua presa con un paio di pinzette.
Can there be a guide on how to replace this part? I pry on the socket accidentally.
I don't even know where they sell a new socket for this, but you'd need to have a soldering station and know how to micro solder. assuming no pads where ripped off then you'd just solder it back down. if a pad broke then you'd need to run jumpers to fix it. in short its very difficult and expensive to fix unless you have the know how and the tools already.
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro della camera.
Be sure to fit the motherboard inbetween the joystick and volume slider in properly (you can double check by seeing if the volume slider on the outside goes up and down smoothly). When I closed it the first time it was stuck on full volume so I needed to go back in and readjust!
When putting the cable back I recommend to open the 3ds while keeping it face down so the cable has more room to fit.
Thank you so much, opening the 3ds is needed to fit the cable back easily.
Halefall -
The camera ribbon cable contacts face towards the motherboard, the speaker ones face away.
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Svita le sette viti a croce Phillips che fissano la scheda madre alla scocca superiore:
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Quattro viti dorate da 2,5 mm
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Due viti nere da 3,5 mm
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Una vite cromata da 2,5 mm
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Solleva il bordo della scheda madre che si appoggia al bordo inferiore del 3DS.
Do yourself a favor and DON'T remove the 2.5 mm silver screw (yellow circle). It just holds in a little plastic bit under the volume control. The board comes out just fine with the screw still in. If you remove it, the plastic bit will fall out at random when you turn over the case.
First time I took mine apart, I noticed something fall out later, tracked it down and then puzzled over what it was and where it came from.
There is some adhesive where the AC adapter plugs in so I recommend watching out for that
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro dello schermo.
Reinserting this ribbon cable is quite difficult. I found opening the case so that it sits upright at a 90 degree angle helps. The first two times I tried reassembling the top display did not work. Turned out that I was not inserting the ribbon cable in enough. I used tweezers to push this in by gently grabbing the ribbon cable. I was continually inspecting the cable for damage but apparently did not damage it. If anyone has a better idea on how to reinsert this cable I think others would greatly appreciate it.
Putting the cable back in is the hardest part out of all of this (if you can get past the screws near the beginning). If you have a friend that you trust very much and is very gentle, another pair of hands here really will help. If you're without a friend, make sure to use some flat, angled precision tweezers to push the ribbon in with one hand (pointed tweezers will do in a pinch but you'll have to be careful - I put a small dent in the ribbon and thought I'd broke it), and then use a spudge or something in the other to push the flap down.
Also worth noting is that the ribbon for the top screen also handles the 3D - if you complete the guide and find you are unable to turn the 3D effect off, you didn't insert the ribbon enough, as I had the problem and re-inserting the ribbon fully fixed it.
Careful when reassembling -- watch the position of the black wifi antenna wire! I got mine most of the way back together and noticed it wouldn't close all the way. This wire had come out of the little posts holding it in place and was wedged between the screen and motherboard. Now I have to take it all apart again to fix this.
Also if you're taking the board out of a working unit to get at the CLK signal to backup the NAND chip ("hardmod"), you don't need to remove the difficult ribbon cable in this step, or the other two wide ones at the top right from earlier. Leave them attached and swing the board out. It won't rotate a full 180 degrees to sit flat outside the unit, but you can open the screen 90 degrees to prop the rest up while having the board out on your table.
I am having problems re-inserting the three ribbon cables (3DS XL). Do you need to flip up the retaining flaps first? (I just pulled them out of the slots when removing them.
if the flap for the ribbon cable breaks what do you do
who else felt really proud after finally reinserting the cable
The easiest way to get that ribbon back in is to hold it with some reverse tweezers that I fix it sells and use it to grab the ribbon and hold it while you fiddle with getting the ribbon in the slot. It’s super easy this way. You’ll have it installed in 36 seconds. Try it. (Reverse tweezers…press to release ones)
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Rimuovi il gruppo della scheda madre dal resto del dispositivo.
Make sure when putting the motherboard back onto the bottom part of the casing that the antenna wire is where it should be - the first time I put this back together the wire got loose and was smooshed in between the casing and the Y and Power buttons, causing them to be stiff/not work. Using the spudge should help in pushing the wire back into the slots along the inside of the case.
when reassembling, watch out for the wireless on/off slider - i had started screwing things back in when i realized the slider had slipped to the wrong side, making the slider non functional. by the same token, watch out for the volume slider on the other side.
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Prima di continuare con lo smontaggio, usa delle pinzette per rimuovere il diffusore in plastica trasparente del LED della connessione WiFi. Questa piccola componente può cadere da sola ed è difficile da ritrovare.
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Scalda i bordi della protezione anteriore dello schermo superiore con un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica per ammorbidire l'adesivo che lo fissa alla cornice dello schermo.
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Inizia a separare i bordi della protezione anteriore con uno strumento di apertura in plastica.
adhesive is definitely reusable. I just completed this step. Please make sure the new display is ready to take the tape as soon as you remove it from the old display.
Disclaimer: I replaced my front panel entirely, and threw away the old one.
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If you do not have a replacement front panel, gently removing it (without getting the adhesive oily from your fingers/dusty) and replacing it is an option. The adhesive is incredibly tacky, and while removing the front panel will weaken the adhesive - it will likely be sticky enough to do its job. If not, double-sided tape or small amounts of water based craft glue may help (disclaimer again: I haven't tried these)- do NOT use superglues/liquid cements/epoxies.
Tai -
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Continua a separare i bordi restanti della protezione anteriore facendo scorrere lo strumento di apertura in plastica sotto ogni bordo.
BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO MELT THE SPEAKERS. This happened to me and now one of the plastic covers for the speakers is melted inside the speaker itself, despite the display cover being undamaged. It is made of a much thinner plastic and i assume it heats up faster.
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Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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4 Commenti
Why remove the entire motherboard just for the upper screen? That seems completely unnecessary; just be careful with the heat gun.
Tehy remove the whole motherboard because if you pay attention ribbon cables attaching things from the top to the bottom, like the ribbon cable for the lcd that you cant remove from its socket without removing the other parts. They even have pictures on these guides… just focus a little more on paying attention and you will be alright
Just to replace the front panel you don’t need to remove anything else, its just held down with adhesive, only reason to take apart is to replace the lcd itself which isn’t what this is about.
#00 screwdriver is too big... probably need a #000
thomascroguennec - Replica
#00 will work - but you must press down firmly and sort of jerk the screw out a few degrees at a time. If you don't press firmly, the screws strip very easily. Using #000 will strip the screws more easily.
Tai -
I used a #0 without any issues and 0 stripped. I used the #0 for all screws internally and externally. The head was sharp and I applied adequate amounts of pressure when loosening the screw.
Ben Kevan -
The correct screwdriver should be a JIS, or you can get a screwdriver specific for the 3DS from other sites for less than $2
Oscar - Replica
do you have to buy it
deeznuts -
Where would I buy a screwdriver specifically for the 3DS? Also would it work on the DS? I need to replace the battery for my DS.
Caitlin Lumsden -
I used Phillips #000 and it worked like a charm, i need to order a new SD board or do you guys think i should send it. What happened is that it got water damaged and everything works fine when i opened it everything looked fine no signs of water corrosion everything on the 3DS works exept it always give me a message saying the SD card is locked and i know for a fact it isnt locked i already tried using 3 different SD cards and none of them are lock protected and yes they are formatted as well. I need help
Leo Torres - Replica
there's a switch on the SD card, switch it and it will be unlocked again. it happened to me once too.
Bagel -
david hodson you are incredible. literally all you need to do is heat the screen up and pry it off and you make them take apart the whole thing
melody - Replica
You've done this?
magykmaster -
I have to ask the same question. If just the glass display is broken, and you're heating it up to remove the glass, is it really necessary to remove everything? Doesn't like like it is necessary
Wade -
I just did it your way and it went fine. didnt even have to remove the battery. This is incredible misstep on the authors part.
patrick -
only take out the screen for a motherboard removal? Are you using the wrong guide or was this guide used for two different repairs?
Reed Deemer -
I used a PH0x50, but it wasn't easy.
John - Replica
This may be a dumb question but where do I buy the 3DS upper screen?
John - Replica
eBay... Just do a search for the 3DS Upper screen. $9.49 & it comes with the tools.
Gary Darnell -
The LCD screen I ordered came with all the tools I needed except a pair of tweezers. All in all it was about $14.00 and a little bit of my time.
Gary Darnell - Replica
Does anyone know where I can find the right bumper button for a 3ds? I can't find it on ebay must of damaged it playing smash bros.
Steven Castro Parrilla - Replica
Really wish I had read the comments first... How about instead of the warning saying to press down hardly and go slow, you say to use the correct screwdriver size like others mentioned in the comments. I not only stripped multiple screws, even after putting a glove on for more pressure, I bent my screwdriver from pressing down so hard. Granted it's a cheap jeweler's kit screwdriver, but it still would've been nice to not have that problem and be informed of the right size in the first place.
hockeymorgan35 - Replica
Got my tools one day after ordering, as I live a couple hours away from the supplier, Will post again when i try guide.
nintendokakashi - Replica
I tried doing this with a #00 Philips but it just didn't turn
Acrobatic Mars01 - Replica
Hello there, I need some assistance I have done a full housing replacement I have everything working except the 3d slider . The 3D option is always on can someone let me know which flex it is or what I am forgetting . Thanks guys !
Noe Ibarra - Replica
The 3D light lets you know there is a 3D option available for the current game you’re playing. Usually, it is always on, except when you’re playing a game that doesn’t support 3D. Turning the 3D slider off does not turn off the 3D LED.
Scott D -
I've always been lucky with these four, and at the time it was my first disassembly so I didn't know what stripping a screw was!
FarmYard Gaming - Replica
These screws don't strip easily, however, the screws at step 4 do.
TheBlueInkling -