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Introduzione

Segui i passi di questa guida per sostituire o rimuovere la piastra di di schermatura LCD sotto lo schermo di un iPhone 7.

  1. Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.
    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.

    • Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm nella parte inferiore del tuo iPhone.

    • Lo smontaggio del display dell'iPhone danneggerà le guarnizioni impermeabili. Devi avere pronte delle guarnizioni sostitutive prima di procedere con il passo successivo, oppure fare attenzione all'intrusione di liquidi nel tuo iPhone se lo rimonterai senza sostituire le guarnizioni.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Replica

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Replica

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Replica

  2. L'applicazione di calore sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo di fissaggio del display, rendendo più semplice l'apertura.
    • L'applicazione di calore sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo di fissaggio del display, rendendo più semplice l'apertura.

    • Usa un asciugacapelli o prepara un iOpener e applica calore per circa un minuto per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Replica

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Replica

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Replica

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Replica

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Replica

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Replica

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Replica

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Replica

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Replica

  3. Applica una ventosa alla metà inferiore del gruppo display, appena sopra il pulsante home. Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home, altrimenti non farebbe tenuta sul vetro.
    • Applica una ventosa alla metà inferiore del gruppo display, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home, altrimenti non farebbe tenuta sul vetro.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Replica

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Replica

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Replica

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Replica

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Replica

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Replica

  4. Tira la ventosa fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore. Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nella fessura. L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione il display è molto tenace e la creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai delle difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo spudger.
    • Tira la ventosa fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nella fessura.

    • L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione il display è molto tenace e la creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai delle difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo spudger.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Replica

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Replica

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Replica

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Replica

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Replica

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Replica

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Replica

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Replica

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Replica

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Replica

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Replica

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Replica

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Replica

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

  5. Fai scorrere lo spudger verso sinistra lungo il lato inferiore dell'iPhone. Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il display e il case posteriore. Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il display e il case posteriore.
    • Fai scorrere lo spudger verso sinistra lungo il lato inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il display e il case posteriore.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Replica

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Replica

  6. Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro dell'iPhone, iniziando dalla parte inferiore e spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa. Non cercare di forzare la parte superiore del display sollevandolo dal case posteriore, perché è bloccato in posizione da delle clip in plastica che potrebbero rompersi. Non cercare di forzare la parte superiore del display sollevandolo dal case posteriore, perché è bloccato in posizione da delle clip in plastica che potrebbero rompersi.
    • Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro dell'iPhone, iniziando dalla parte inferiore e spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa.

    • Non cercare di forzare la parte superiore del display sollevandolo dal case posteriore, perché è bloccato in posizione da delle clip in plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Replica

  7. Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nell'angolo inferiore destro del dispositivo. Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore. Fai scorrere  l'estremità piatta dello spudger sul lato destro del telefono per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nell'angolo inferiore destro del dispositivo.

    • Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

    • Fai scorrere l'estremità piatta dello spudger sul lato destro del telefono per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.

  8. Tira verso l'alto la ventosa per sollevare il display e aprire l'iPhone. Non sollevare il display oltre 10° perché ci sono dei cavi a nastro lungo il bordo destro del dispositivo  che collegano il display alla scheda logica.
    • Tira verso l'alto la ventosa per sollevare il display e aprire l'iPhone.

    • Non sollevare il display oltre 10° perché ci sono dei cavi a nastro lungo il bordo destro del dispositivo che collegano il display alla scheda logica.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Replica

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Replica

  9. Solleva la piccola appendice  della ventosa per rimuovere lo strumento dal pannello anteriore.
    • Solleva la piccola appendice della ventosa per rimuovere lo strumento dal pannello anteriore.

  10. Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura lungo il lato superiore dell'iPhone, tra il case posteriore e il pannello anteriore, per rompere  la parte restante dell'adesivo che tiene in posizione lo schermo. Stai attento a non danneggiare le clip in plastica sul lato superiore del telefono.
    • Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura lungo il lato superiore dell'iPhone, tra il case posteriore e il pannello anteriore, per rompere la parte restante dell'adesivo che tiene in posizione lo schermo.

    • Stai attento a non danneggiare le clip in plastica sul lato superiore del telefono.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Replica

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

  11. Tira lievemente in orizzontale il gruppo display per allontanarlo dalla parte superiore del telefono per scollegare le clip che tengono bloccato lo schermo al case posteriore. Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato destro, come se fosse  la copertina posteriore di un libro. Anche in questa fase, non cercare di separare completamente  il display perché ci sono diversi fragili cavi a nastro  che lo collegano ancora  alla scheda logica dell'iPhone.
    • Tira lievemente in orizzontale il gruppo display per allontanarlo dalla parte superiore del telefono per scollegare le clip che tengono bloccato lo schermo al case posteriore.

    • Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato destro, come se fosse la copertina posteriore di un libro.

    • Anche in questa fase, non cercare di separare completamente il display perché ci sono diversi fragili cavi a nastro che lo collegano ancora alla scheda logica dell'iPhone.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Replica

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Replica

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Replica

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Replica

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Replica

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Replica

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Replica

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Replica

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Replica

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti con testa tri-wing Y000 dalla staffa inferiore del connettore:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 2,4 mm

    • Nel corso dell'intera riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati che ciascuna verrà rimessa esattamente al suo posto per evitare di danneggiare il tuo iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Replica

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Replica

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Replica

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Replica

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Replica

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Replica

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Replica

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Replica

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Replica

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Replica

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Replica

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Replica

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Replica

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Replica

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Replica

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Replica

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Replica

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

  12. Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del connettore.
    • Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del connettore.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Replica

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Replica

  13. Kit di riparazione per Android

    Un nuovo schermo o una nuova batteria sono ad un kit di distanza.

    Acquista ora

    Kit di riparazione per Android

    Un nuovo schermo o una nuova batteria sono ad un kit di distanza.

    Acquista ora
  14. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger  per sollevare il connettore della batteria  dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Piega leggermente di lato il cavo del connettore per impedire che possa far contatto con lo zoccolino e quindi possa alimentare il telefono. Piega leggermente di lato il cavo del connettore per impedire che possa far contatto con lo zoccolino e quindi possa alimentare il telefono.
    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega leggermente di lato il cavo del connettore per impedire che possa far contatto con lo zoccolino e quindi possa alimentare il telefono.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Replica

  15. In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per staccare i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica. Per riconnettere questi cavi, premi da un'estremità finché senti il clic che indica il blocco, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente disallineato, il connettore può piegarsi, portando a danni permanenti.
    • In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per staccare i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.

    • Per riconnettere questi cavi, premi da un'estremità finché senti il clic che indica il blocco, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente disallineato, il connettore può piegarsi, portando a danni permanenti.

    • Se dopo aver rimontato il telefono ti ritrovi con uno schermo bianco, linee bianche sul display oppure se manca, del tutto o in parte, la risposta touch, prova a staccare e riattaccare con cura entrambi questi cavi e assicurati che siano ben bloccati in posizione.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

    minimalist - Replica

  16. Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale. Rimuovi la staffa. Rimuovi la staffa.
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.

    • Rimuovi la staffa.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Replica

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Replica

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Replica

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Replica

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Replica

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Replica

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Replica

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Replica

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Replica

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Replica

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

  17. Stacca il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Questo connettore a pressione deve essere riconnesso un'estremità alla volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.
    • Stacca il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Questo connettore a pressione deve essere riconnesso un'estremità alla volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Replica

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Replica

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Rimuovi il gruppo display.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Replica

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Replica

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Replica

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. Rimuovi le quattro viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa sopra il sensore home/Touch ID:
    • Rimuovi le quattro viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa sopra il sensore home/Touch ID:

    • Una vite da 1,1 mm

    • Tre viti da 1,3 mm

    • In fase di rimontaggio, stai attento a non serrare troppo queste viti, altrimenti il pulsante home potrebbe non funzionare.

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - Replica

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - Replica

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - Replica

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - Replica

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - Replica

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - Replica

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - Replica

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - Replica

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - Replica

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - Replica

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - Replica

    Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?

    Thanks in Advance.

    llamalulu42 - Replica

    Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?

    Marcos Polos - Replica

  20. Rimuovi la staffa che blocca il sensore home/Touch ID.
    • Rimuovi la staffa che blocca il sensore home/Touch ID.

  21. Stacca, spingendolo a destra, la spina del pulsante home per disconnetterlo dal suo zoccolino sul cavo di interconnessione. Se l'intero connettore inizia a sollevarsi ma non si stacca, premi con la parte piatta del tuo spudger sul cavo in corrispondenza del bordo superiore del connettore, mentre allo stesso tempo sollevi il bordo sinistro del connettore. Stai attento a non danneggiare il cavo o il connettore, perché potresti disabilitare permanentemente il sensore. Se l'intero connettore inizia a sollevarsi ma non si stacca, premi con la parte piatta del tuo spudger sul cavo in corrispondenza del bordo superiore del connettore, mentre allo stesso tempo sollevi il bordo sinistro del connettore. Stai attento a non danneggiare il cavo o il connettore, perché potresti disabilitare permanentemente il sensore.
    • Stacca, spingendolo a destra, la spina del pulsante home per disconnetterlo dal suo zoccolino sul cavo di interconnessione.

    • Se l'intero connettore inizia a sollevarsi ma non si stacca, premi con la parte piatta del tuo spudger sul cavo in corrispondenza del bordo superiore del connettore, mentre allo stesso tempo sollevi il bordo sinistro del connettore. Stai attento a non danneggiare il cavo o il connettore, perché potresti disabilitare permanentemente il sensore.

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - Replica

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - Replica

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - Replica

    Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.

    Klaus M -

    That worked perfectly, thank you!

    Emily Kretschmer -

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - Replica

    I did it. :-( i broke it

    Peter Keller - Replica

    Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.

    Patrick McKenna - Replica

    Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.

    edcraigslistaccount -

    my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?

    Dr. Dieter - Replica

    so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?

    Thanks a lot!

    Peter Keller - Replica

    iPhone 7 home “buttons” can be really fussy. You’ll find some good troubleshooting tips here and here. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.

    bart.hutchings - Replica

    This helped me SO much. Watch it before removing home button. Around 4:56ish

    https://youtu.be/An9kUJshRjA

    Gina Torres - Replica

  22. Fai leva delicatamente per alzare il cavo di interconnessione sottostante e spostalo lontano dal cavo del pulsante home. Nell'eseguire questo passo, è molto facile danneggiare il tuo iPhone. Lavora lentamente e con attenzione quando fai leva con il tuo strumento. Se danneggiato, l'hardware del Touch ID può essere sostituito solo da Apple.
    • Fai leva delicatamente per alzare il cavo di interconnessione sottostante e spostalo lontano dal cavo del pulsante home.

    • Nell'eseguire questo passo, è molto facile danneggiare il tuo iPhone. Lavora lentamente e con attenzione quando fai leva con il tuo strumento. Se danneggiato, l'hardware del Touch ID può essere sostituito solo da Apple.

    • Se il connettore non si stacca facilmente, usa un asciugacapelli o un iOpener per scaldare e ammorbidire l'adesivo che fissa il connettore, quindi prova di nuovo.

    • Non cercare di staccare completamente il connettore: limitati a ripiegarlo lievemente in modo che il cavo del sensore home/Touch ID sottostante possa essere rimosso.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - Replica

    If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

    Ben - Replica

    Just one tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol or it will reach the lcd screen.

    Stefano Restuccia -

  23. Il riscaldamento dell'area attorno al sensore home/Touch ID aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il suo delicato cavo, rendendo più facile e sicura la rimozione.
    • Il riscaldamento dell'area attorno al sensore home/Touch ID aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il suo delicato cavo, rendendo più facile e sicura la rimozione.

    • Capovolgi il gruppo display. Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applica lo sul bordo retro del display per circa 90 secondi per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

    If you don’t have that heating tool, a hair straightener n a T-shirt worked just fine for me

    www.tertlegerl - Replica

  24. Usa con delicatezza una levetta di apertura per separare  l'adesivo che fissa il cavo del sensore home/Touch ID al retro del pannello display. Usa con delicatezza una levetta di apertura per separare  l'adesivo che fissa il cavo del sensore home/Touch ID al retro del pannello display. Usa con delicatezza una levetta di apertura per separare  l'adesivo che fissa il cavo del sensore home/Touch ID al retro del pannello display.
    • Usa con delicatezza una levetta di apertura per separare l'adesivo che fissa il cavo del sensore home/Touch ID al retro del pannello display.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - Replica

    Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.

    bandman - Replica

    Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.

    ashkan eslami fard - Replica

    Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better

    Crasset Renaud - Replica

    Okay the home button is connected, as touch id works, but I can’t get any motion out of it. I backed off the screws, but that didn’t help. What else can I try?

    kathwick2 - Replica

    Salve, vorrei un vostro aiuto, ho un problema con il tasto home (il tasto è originale preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituito il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e legge l’impronta digitale) il tasto invece no (il click per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie!

    bernabbo - Replica

  25. Rimuovi il gruppo sensore home/Touch ID facendolo passare dal lato anteriore del display.
    • Rimuovi il gruppo sensore home/Touch ID facendolo passare dal lato anteriore del display.

    • In fase di rimontaggio, per prima cosa fai passare il cavo attraverso il foro dalla parte superiore del display.

    • La tua parte di ricambio potrebbe avere una vite Y000 extra già installata, a destra del pulsante home. Rimuovi la vite non necessarie in modo da poter reinstallare il supporto del pulsante home.

    • Segui questa guida per applicare sul tuo schermo dell'adesivo di ricambio.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - Replica

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - Replica

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - Replica

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - Replica

    must use original button

    Christa -

    My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button

    cheryl.iseli - Replica

    Why doesn’t this tutorial also cover the earpiece assembly?

    James - Replica

    This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete

    Mason Schild - Replica

    James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!

    Gregory Haycock - Replica

    @ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.

    You can see the gaskets in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Here they are near the new screen: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14FwpSB...

    Andre LeBlanc - Replica

  26. Rimuovi le tre viti Phillips che fissano la staffa dell'altoparlante al pannello frontale:
    • Rimuovi le tre viti Phillips che fissano la staffa dell'altoparlante al pannello frontale:

    • Due viti da 2,6 mm

    • Una vite da 1,7 mm

    I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

    Marco Cueva - Replica

    I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  27. Rimuovi la staffa dell'altoparlante voce
    • Rimuovi la staffa dell'altoparlante voce

  28. Solleva la fotocamera anteriore e spostala da una parte per poter accedere all'altoparlante voce. Solleva la fotocamera anteriore e spostala da una parte per poter accedere all'altoparlante voce.
    • Solleva la fotocamera anteriore e spostala da una parte per poter accedere all'altoparlante voce.

  29. Rimuovi le seguenti due viti Phillips che fissano l'altoparlante voce al pannello frontale:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti due viti Phillips che fissano l'altoparlante voce al pannello frontale:

    • Una vite da 1,9 mm

    • Una vite da 2,5 mm

    Hi!What size is the third screw?

    Лёха Н - Replica

  30. Rimuovi l'altoparlante voce.
    • Rimuovi l'altoparlante voce.

  31. Scalda il tuo iOpener e applicalo sul bordo superiore del gruppo display per ammorbidire l'adesivo che tiene in posizione la fotocamera anteriore e il gruppo sensore.
    • Scalda il tuo iOpener e applicalo sul bordo superiore del gruppo display per ammorbidire l'adesivo che tiene in posizione la fotocamera anteriore e il gruppo sensore.

    • Attenti circa due minuti prima di passare al passo successivo, in modo che l'adesivo possa ammorbidirsi adeguatamente.

  32. Usa uno spudger per staccare delicatamente dalla sua sede sul pannello frontale il sensore di luce ambiente. Cerca di infilare completamente il tuo attrezzo sotto il sensore per poterlo staccare dalla plastica trasparente sottostante. Se fai leva agendo solo sul cavo, il sensore potrebbe separarsi dal gruppo del cavo e quindi richiedere la sostituzione. Se invece devi sostituire comunque il gruppo sensore/cavo, non c'è problema.
    • Usa uno spudger per staccare delicatamente dalla sua sede sul pannello frontale il sensore di luce ambiente.

    • Cerca di infilare completamente il tuo attrezzo sotto il sensore per poterlo staccare dalla plastica trasparente sottostante. Se fai leva agendo solo sul cavo, il sensore potrebbe separarsi dal gruppo del cavo e quindi richiedere la sostituzione. Se invece devi sostituire comunque il gruppo sensore/cavo, non c'è problema.

    I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

    I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

    At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

    I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

    Miguel Cretu - Replica

    I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

    Miguel Cretu - Replica

    I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

    Wayne Lyell - Replica

    In the second picture, there is the splugger that’s on it’s right is near a little window square, white inside. I’ve checked my replacement display and it don’t have inside in WHITE in this little window . Anyone know why have this color (it is not a sticker) and what is the reason? Thanks

    fakirox - Replica

  33. Fai scorrere lo strumento di apertura verso l'alloggiamento della fotocamera anteriore, separando l'adesivo che tiene attaccato il cavo al pannello frontale. Fermati appena prima delle sedi delle viti. Fai scorrere lo strumento di apertura verso l'alloggiamento della fotocamera anteriore, separando l'adesivo che tiene attaccato il cavo al pannello frontale. Fermati appena prima delle sedi delle viti. Fai scorrere lo strumento di apertura verso l'alloggiamento della fotocamera anteriore, separando l'adesivo che tiene attaccato il cavo al pannello frontale. Fermati appena prima delle sedi delle viti.
    • Fai scorrere lo strumento di apertura verso l'alloggiamento della fotocamera anteriore, separando l'adesivo che tiene attaccato il cavo al pannello frontale. Fermati appena prima delle sedi delle viti.

  34. Usa lo strumento di apertura per sollevare il cavo della fotocamera dei due perni in plastica sul pannello frontale e separalo da ciò che rimane dell'adesivo. Usa lo strumento di apertura per sollevare il cavo della fotocamera dei due perni in plastica sul pannello frontale e separalo da ciò che rimane dell'adesivo. Usa lo strumento di apertura per sollevare il cavo della fotocamera dei due perni in plastica sul pannello frontale e separalo da ciò che rimane dell'adesivo.
    • Usa lo strumento di apertura per sollevare il cavo della fotocamera dei due perni in plastica sul pannello frontale e separalo da ciò che rimane dell'adesivo.

    на рисунке №2 винт 3 отсутствует, на рисунке № 3 винт 3 присутствует. нет описание где он был вывинчен. последний винт с правой стороны, около камеры

    Vitaly Savin - Replica

  35. Rimuovi la fotocamera anteriore e il cavo del sensore.
    • Rimuovi la fotocamera anteriore e il cavo del sensore.

    Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

    turboduck2 - Replica

    Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

    Jaye - Replica

    Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

    Steve - Replica

    Hi Steve, what is the main work of this little strip with 2 small contact? Antenna? Shield?

    Thanks

    fakirox -

    I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement

    Dominic Sore - Replica

    About Steve comment, anyone know what is this small screw with two contact? It is an antenna ?? Shield??? Thanks

    fakirox - Replica

    I’m also looking for info on the screw on the immediate left of the top left corner of the speaker. Did you find the info out?

    Cheers!

    Mike Grandbois - Replica

  36. Svita le tre viti Y000 tri-point da 1,2 mm dall'altro lato del gruppo display per un totale di sei viti. Svita le tre viti Y000 tri-point da 1,2 mm dall'altro lato del gruppo display per un totale di sei viti.
    • Svita le tre viti Y000 tri-point da 1,2 mm dall'altro lato del gruppo display per un totale di sei viti.

    i miss the screw size here

    Beerbo - Replica

    I think it's 1.2mm Y000

    STRAP -

    I d’ont think the screw size is correct, because i had to order a new heat shield plate, because my original broke during the replacement.

    Marco Burkhalter - Replica

    I found if I held the flat end of a spudger behind the screw while I unscrewed, it worked well. Otherwise there was too much flex to get a good grip on the screw.

    Travis Hogg - Replica

    good tip! Yes, there is indeed too much flex when removing the screws.

    amberron -

    My screws are too tight that I can't unscrew it. What should I do?

    Charles Bejarano - Replica

    I have had this problem so far on all the red tri point screws. The first screw, the home button, and 4/6 of these. I have noticed little to no advice on each one or for stripped screws. I have been able to manage so far but not sure about this one.

    kimberly klassy -

    Here, I was able to use a soldering iron on the back side of the screw to get it quite hot to release the INSANE amount of loctite that was applied to my 7. Be patient and let the screw get hot. If you try to move the screw with the Y000 and it doesn’t move, WAIT. Don’t strip the screw or your driver.

    P Park - Replica

    Good tip using the soldering iron. I’ve just ordered a quality Y driver as the cheap one that came with the screen can’t remove these screws. Why the the Loctite? Had to reassemble what I’ve pulled apart to await the new driver.

    Tony Binstead -

    I understand home button , but why do i need to replace the shield and camera/speaker?

    Ēriks Jaunzems - Replica

  37. Riscalda un iOpener e mettilo sul bordo della piastra più vicino al pulsante home per ammorbidire l'adesivo che la tiene in posizione.
    • Riscalda un iOpener e mettilo sul bordo della piastra più vicino al pulsante home per ammorbidire l'adesivo che la tiene in posizione.

  38. Usa un plettro di apertura per rompere l'adesivo vicino al pulsante home che fissa la piastra protettiva dell'LCD al gruppo display. Usa un plettro di apertura per rompere l'adesivo vicino al pulsante home che fissa la piastra protettiva dell'LCD al gruppo display. Usa un plettro di apertura per rompere l'adesivo vicino al pulsante home che fissa la piastra protettiva dell'LCD al gruppo display.
    • Usa un plettro di apertura per rompere l'adesivo vicino al pulsante home che fissa la piastra protettiva dell'LCD al gruppo display.

    applying 1 minute of hair dryer heat in this step really helps the separation in this step

    amberron - Replica

    definitely use heat and work slowly!

    Catharine - Replica

  39. Solleva con cautela la piastra di schermatura dell'LCD dal gruppo display. Sii attento a non far impigliare i cavi data del display quando rimuovi la piastra protettiva dell'LCD.
    • Solleva con cautela la piastra di schermatura dell'LCD dal gruppo display.

    • Sii attento a non far impigliare i cavi data del display quando rimuovi la piastra protettiva dell'LCD.

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Evan Noronha

Membro da: 05/02/2015

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Awesome Guide! Very easy to follow!!! Thanks!

apriltanner1975 - Replica

Use a good tri-point screwdriver for this repair. Some of the screws are very tight!

Robin Vandenbroucke - Replica

Absolutely true. The cheap Y000 driver that came with a repair kit was stripped to uselessness by the time I got to the shield screws.

Mike Sorice -

I am a better technician because ifixit repair guide have made it easier for me. Thank you

Agba - Replica

I had a lot of trouble getting the home button cable connector back after replacing the screen and shield. I wound up disconnecting the shield to give the screen side of that connection a little more play and enable the connection to be made.

Incidentally, if you want to take off just the shield itself and not the outer cables, you can skip 19-35, except the outer orange screws in 19 and the outer orange screws in 26. It might make getting under the shield adhesive harder, but in the case I described above, it was quite useful!

Mike Sorice - Replica

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