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Componenti & Strumenti

Introduzione

Il gruppo schermo LCD è composto dal digitizer (schermo in vetro) e dall'LCD. Se hai completato tutte le guide prerequisite, ti ritroverai di fronte il gruppo schermo LCD del tuo dispositivo.

  1. Spegni il telefono. Incunea il tuo strumento di apertura in plastica nella giunzione tra le due facce del dispositivo. Fai leva e apri un lato alla volta.
    • Spegni il telefono.

    • Incunea il tuo strumento di apertura in plastica nella giunzione tra le due facce del dispositivo. Fai leva e apri un lato alla volta.

    • Non far leva vicino alla porta USB alla base del dispositivo, perché potresti rompere il pannello posteriore.

    I had a heck of a time doing this, spent ten or twenty minutes carefully prying, and I STILL cracked the case. At least on mine, the case was held in VERY well and required prying pretty much everywhere before it would let go. The tools I bought from iFixit really helped, but still a royal pain to open.

    pacmanmaster - Replica

    a couple of obscure things that might help in opening:

    guitar pick. get a few; they are cheap.

    a prying device made for the sign industry: its called"lil' chizler". I have found that this to be the most helpful opening tool.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/16184595677...

    also

    https://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/trad...

    you can use the broken screen unit to test.

    Len Gorsky - Replica

    Add "remove the sim tray"...

    Iain Lennon - Replica

    I echo the previous - a right royal pain to get the cover off! I started on the right side as seemed to be more give there… iFixit tools helped tho!

    Steven Emery - Replica

    Just for the sake of clarity, I would add that you need to pry between the plastic bezel and the back casing. Not between the glass and bezel. Someone had already tried on the one I worked on and part of the bezel was missing in the top right corner. Made my job easier!

    The best tools for this part are definitely something like the iFixit Jimmy and their opening tool, a few guitar picks and a spudger. Not too difficult once you get the first separation.

    Cool_Breeze - Replica

    I managed to easily crack the screen, guess I’ll have to order a new one and “try” to put it in, in addition to the original job of replacing a dead battery on Nexus 7 2013..ahhhhhh, slow learner…

    Gary Stamey - Replica

    Opened the case for the first time. It took me a while to find any gaps, but I found that the easy way to begin was using your fingernail to get into the sides. The middle left and middle right seemed a lot easier to…slip a nail in compared to the rest of the case, especially the corners and the top and bottom. With a small opening on both sides I used the opening tool to increase the gaps while using a couple of guitar picks to prop up the device against the back case. With most of the sides exposed, I worked on the bottom (create opening, leave a guitar pick to keep that part open, use the opening tool to get the rest out), and the opening was pretty much complete.

    So far only the corners of the back case showed small cracks and my screen was pretty much unscathed.

    Nam Lam - Replica

  2. Usa anche le dita attorno alla giunzione tra il dispositivo e la cover posteriore. Usa il tuo strumento di apertura in plastica o le dita per separare ciascun lato fino a staccare completamente tra loro il dispositivo e la cover posteriore.
    • Usa anche le dita attorno alla giunzione tra il dispositivo e la cover posteriore. Usa il tuo strumento di apertura in plastica o le dita per separare ciascun lato fino a staccare completamente tra loro il dispositivo e la cover posteriore.

    • Fai attenzione quando lavori vicino agli angoli, la scocca del dispositivo può rivelarsi fragile.

  3. Inserisci lo strumento di apertura in plastica sotto il bordo laterale del connettore della batteria e fai leva delicatamente per scollegarlo.
    • Inserisci lo strumento di apertura in plastica sotto il bordo laterale del connettore della batteria e fai leva delicatamente per scollegarlo.

    THIS should be the first cable to disconnect. Always remove power first!

    dave - Replica

    We moved this step to be fist, thanks for the edit!

    Sam Goldheart -

  4. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o le unghie per far scattare l'aletta protettiva trasparente sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto. Con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o le unghie, solleva la porzione sottile del connettore (dal lato opposto a dove si inserisce il cavo) per liberare il cavo dal suo zoccolo. Non far leva sullo zoccolo dal lato dove si inserisce il cavo, perché potresti staccare l'intero zoccolo dalla scheda madre.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o le unghie per far scattare l'aletta protettiva trasparente sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto.

    • Con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o le unghie, solleva la porzione sottile del connettore (dal lato opposto a dove si inserisce il cavo) per liberare il cavo dal suo zoccolo.

    • Non far leva sullo zoccolo dal lato dove si inserisce il cavo, perché potresti staccare l'intero zoccolo dalla scheda madre.

    • Sfila il cavo dallo zoccolo ZIF.

    • Per maggiori informazioni su come staccare i connettori ZIF, vedi la nostra guida Riconoscimento e scollegamento dei connettori dei cavi.

    Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

    yuguoxiong - Replica

    This is the correct way to do it. Flipping up the white part is what you have to do. I tried flipping up the black part and some of it broke off.

    Ryan -

    I found that I had to flip up on the black part here. I broke a section of the white trying to flip it up.

    pattylanter - Replica

    This comment saved me on this step. Indeed the secret is to flip up the black part of the connector, located opposite the side where the cable inserts.

    Hannah Cirimele -

    This is wrong, these comments should be deleted so as to not confuse more people.

    Jeff Andrews -

    It's possible there's more than one color variation in production on these Nexus 7 ZIF sockets. To complicate matters, it looks like the guide's original author/photographer may have simply yanked the ribbon cable out without opening the socket, so there's very little visual clue here as to which is the right section to flip up. Based on these photos, I'd say Hannah's tip is probably correct—you want to flip up the thinner portion of the socket, opposite the cable (regardless of its color scheme). If someone who has successfully completed this step could supply a better photo, that would be super helpful!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I revised the text so there's no long any mention of the coloration of the socket.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I believe I broke the ZIF attached to the mobo at this step; is there any other way to reconnect it during reassembly or will I require a new mobo?

    Neil Reed - Replica

    This was my first time with this kind of ZIF socket and found these instructions/pictures ambiguous. In hindsight I see what was being described (actually used the replacement daughterboard as my guide). May I suggest this phrasing:

    The ZIF clamp hinges on the side opposite of where the cable in inserted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and away from the insertion side of the connector.

    charles fineman - Replica

    Correction of Charles' Oct comment: The ZIF clamp hinges on the same side as the cable is inserted, the side towards the battery. The cable runs over the battery and into the thick connector, with contacts both on the side closest to the battery and on the side away from the battery. Beyond the contacts on the side away from the battery is the thin part to be lifted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and towards the insertion side of the connector. You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector.

    ted ballou - Replica

    You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector, using a motion similar to the described in step 5 below for removing the orange ribbon connector.

    ted ballou - Replica

    some better macro photos of the zif socket would help a lot, in closed and open states

    Iain Lennon - Replica

    For anyone like me who has only experience with metal connectors similar to iPhones, this is a "switch-on/switch-off" connector.

    The cable doesn't pop out by itself, you have to pull it out yourself.

    Light to moderate pressure required.

    Jason - Replica

    Please make the pictures clearer as Iain Lennon said. I too was a fool to not read the comments and broke the connector off of the motherboard.

    Yumi Blesh - Replica

    Ha.

    So one side of the cable has a white strip connector, and the other side has a black strip connector. (both comments above are correct, depending on which side you are looking at)

    The side in the photo has a black connector strip that needs to be opened. It is the long small strip of plastic on the _opposite_ side of the connection point, to the cable.

    It clicks up into the air, like on a hinge.

    The cable then pulls out, without any resistance.

    Warwick - Replica

    Having totally destroyed the ZIF connector I can now say that the WHITE portion is hinged and the BLACK portion is not. Both parts are extremely fragile. The photographs are really useless.

    David Spitzer - Replica

    exactly ……..

    esykas -

    This shouldn’t be the first cable to disconnect. Disconnect the battery cable first. Always remove power first!

    dave - Replica

    Good catch @hobohax0r, we rearranged the steps to help fix that!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I have added a photo of the socket in the open state. Also looking at the comments above it seems that the confusion is due to the fact that this cable is connected to a similarly looking connector on the other side, where the colors are reversed. It may be worth to point this out and tell that the connector the guide is talking about is located near the heatsinks

    Michael Sokolkov - Replica

  5. Stacca la lamina  protettiva disposta sopra la scheda madre per esporre la connessione del cavo flat arancione.
    • Stacca la lamina protettiva disposta sopra la scheda madre per esporre la connessione del cavo flat arancione.

    • Le connessioni del cavo piatto dovrebbero essere perfettamente visibili, mostrando le linguette di plastica.

  6. Stacca con delle pinzette il foglio protettivo argentato sopra il connettore del cavo a nastro arancione. Fai leva sotto il connettore del cavo arancione con lo strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevarlo. Dovrebbe saltare via dalla sua posizione. Fai leva sotto il connettore del cavo arancione con lo strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevarlo. Dovrebbe saltare via dalla sua posizione.
    • Stacca con delle pinzette il foglio protettivo argentato sopra il connettore del cavo a nastro arancione.

    • Fai leva sotto il connettore del cavo arancione con lo strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevarlo. Dovrebbe saltare via dalla sua posizione.

  7. Ora che i due cavi piatti principali sono scollegati, ripiegali e tienili lontano con le dita, oppure sistemaci sopra le pinzette o un altro oggetto leggero per tenerle discoste. Ora che i due cavi piatti principali sono scollegati, ripiegali e tienili lontano con le dita, oppure sistemaci sopra le pinzette o un altro oggetto leggero per tenerle discoste.
    • Ora che i due cavi piatti principali sono scollegati, ripiegali e tienili lontano con le dita, oppure sistemaci sopra le pinzette o un altro oggetto leggero per tenerle discoste.

    How called is the left one ? I broke it and i will buy it but cant find it..

    Timo Dohmen - Replica

  8. Usa il cacciavite a croce Phillips #0 per rimuovere le quattro viti a croce cromate Phillips #0 da 3 mm disposte attorno all'alloggiamento della batteria.
    • Usa il cacciavite a croce Phillips #0 per rimuovere le quattro viti a croce cromate Phillips #0 da 3 mm disposte attorno all'alloggiamento della batteria.

    There are 6 screws on mine. One at the top and the other directly across from that on the other side of the battery at the bottom. These two screws are covered with a small adhesive sticker that says “seal". Those stickers need to be removed so the Phillips screwdriver can be inserted to remove them.

    dabair30 - Replica

    Correcrion, there are 7. One more at the top left corner of the battery tray. The last 3 screws are slightly larger than the first 4.

    dabair30 - Replica

    I found using a #00 Philips worked better for my removal.

    Todd - Replica

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  10. Rimuovi la batteria dal dispositivo esercitando una certa pressione alla base della batteria e quindi sollevandola.
    • Rimuovi la batteria dal dispositivo esercitando una certa pressione alla base della batteria e quindi sollevandola.

    If your replacement battery doesn’t have the metal battery tray included (like mine came) be aware you’ll have to CAREFULLY pry the old battery out of the metal tray. It has some pretty strong glue holding it in, but prying on it slowly and carefully should get it free without bending up the metal tray. There should be enough glue residue left in the tray to hold the new battery in, at least until you get the tablet back together.

    Tracy Nash - Replica

    Thank you for the very helpful comment - I was facing the same issue!

    Jorge Gomes -

    You probably should add that the battery is held in the tray with some glue strips. It took a bit to carefully remove the battery from the tray without bending the tray too much. Also, the replacement battery I had was slightly smaller than the OEM battery. When putting back together make sure you place the battery in the tray so the battery is close enough to the battery connector and you can reconnect the battery without pulling on the connector wires.

    Todd - Replica

    Having replaced the battery I find it doesn't charge. Which connector could be at fault please?

    mxclubman - Replica

  11. Rimuovi il sigillo grigio che copre la vite superiore centrale sulla scheda figlia. Sappi che questa azione invaliderà la garanzia sul dispositivo.
    • Rimuovi il sigillo grigio che copre la vite superiore centrale sulla scheda figlia.

    • Sappi che questa azione invaliderà la garanzia sul dispositivo.

    • Vedi di riporre il sigillo in un posto dove non si sporchi e possa mantenere la sua adesività.

    I couldn't get a grasp on the sticker enough to peel it off, so just punched through it with the screwdriver. I don't know the point of removing the sticker, since the warranty is voided anyway by either time or the mere act of disassembly.

    yuguoxiong - Replica

    How come the battery is still in place in the picture? I couldn't get the battery out until I'd removed another 3 screws...1 on the daughterboard (step 11) and 2 on the motherboard (step 16).

    Mark Birbeck - Replica

    Both hidden screws were holding the battery tray in place. I was not able to remove the battery as described in step 9 before removing the screw from this step

    coutureg - Replica

    If you are replacing just the main board and not the daughterboard , I skip this part and go to step 16.

    danovila - Replica

  12. Con un cacciavite a croce Phillips #0, svita le cinque viti nere da 2 mm tutto attorno al bordo della scheda figlia.
    • Con un cacciavite a croce Phillips #0, svita le cinque viti nere da 2 mm tutto attorno al bordo della scheda figlia.

    • Usa lo stesso cacciavite Phillips #0 per rimuovere due viti cromate da 3 mm da ciascuna lato della micro USB.

    Is there a reason you suggested removing the screws at this point? I found it to be more of a hassle having the board moving around as I did the next several disconnects. Unless there's a good reason, I would suggest leaving the screws in until the foam and the connectors have been detached.

    charles fineman - Replica

  13. Usa delle pinzette per scollegare dalla scheda figlia il connettore dell'altoparlante, spingendolo lateralmente. Questa operazione richiede delicatezza perché questo connettore può essere fragile. Non tirare verso l'alto.
    • Usa delle pinzette per scollegare dalla scheda figlia il connettore dell'altoparlante, spingendolo lateralmente.

    • Questa operazione richiede delicatezza perché questo connettore può essere fragile. Non tirare verso l'alto.

  14. Con delle pinzette, stacca lentamente la cover attaccata sul connettore a pin.
    • Con delle pinzette, stacca lentamente la cover attaccata sul connettore a pin.

  15. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per sbloccare con delicatezza le due alette di bloccaggio di ciascuno zoccolo ZIF. Nel disconnettere le prese ZIF, spingile fuori rispettivamente in direzione del bordo della scheda e verso i cavi.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per sbloccare con delicatezza le due alette di bloccaggio di ciascuno zoccolo ZIF.

    • Nel disconnettere le prese ZIF, spingile fuori rispettivamente in direzione del bordo della scheda e verso i cavi.

    • Stai attento non danneggiare il connettore a pin. Tira parallelamente al dispositivo e non verso l'alto.

    • Per maggiori informazioni su come staccare i connettori ZIF, vedi la nostra guida Riconoscimento e scollegamento dei connettori dei cavi.

    Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

    yuguoxiong - Replica

  16. Ora è facile sollevare e rimuovere la scheda figlia.
    • Ora è facile sollevare e rimuovere la scheda figlia.

    • Fai attenzione in fase di rimontaggio. Questa scheda figlia una parte molto sensibile. Se le connessioni non sono fatte nel giusto ordine, è facile "bruciare" la parte del digitizer di questa scheda. Completa le connessioni tutti gli altri cavi prima di collegare il tutto all'alimentazione.

  17. Usa delle pinzette per staccare lo sticker adesivo dalla vite centrale più vicina alla batteria.
    • Usa delle pinzette per staccare lo sticker adesivo dalla vite centrale più vicina alla batteria.

    • Accertati di conservare questo sigillo in un posto dove non si sporchi e possa mantenere la sua adesività.

    I couldn't get a grasp on the sticker enough to peel it off, so just punched through it with the screwdriver. I don't know the point of removing the sticker, since the warranty is voided anyway by either time or the mere act of disassembly.

    yuguoxiong - Replica

    the stickers are probably put there for insulating purposes. i have found that discarding them has no bearing on nexus' operation.

    Leonard Gorsky -

  18. Sempre usando le pinzette, oppure usando con attenzione le dita, scollega l'altoparlante dalla sua connessione sulla scheda madre tirandolo direttamente di lato.
    • Sempre usando le pinzette, oppure usando con attenzione le dita, scollega l'altoparlante dalla sua connessione sulla scheda madre tirandolo direttamente di lato.

    • Non tirare verso l'alto, altrimenti potresti danneggiare il connettore.

  19. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio della connessione ZIF del cavo a nastro.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio della connessione ZIF del cavo a nastro.

    • Per maggiori informazioni su come staccare i connettori ZIF, vedi la nostra guida Riconoscimento e scollegamento dei connettori dei cavi.

    The front panel assembly I got from iFixit didn't have this ribbon cable for power and volume, so I had to peel it off the old one. To remove it, work the spudger underneath and gently loosen it from the adhesive. There should be enough residual adhesive to stick it in place on the replacement panel assembly.

    yuguoxiong - Replica

    your amendments are much appreciated. definitely helpful. THank YOU!

    Leonard Gorsky -

    I also had to remove the old ribbon cable here. I used a credit card to slide behind the adhesive.

    pattylanter - Replica

    why in the world that part isnt included is beyond me. MUCH NEEDED COMMENT!!

    gocaps25 - Replica

  20. Usando un cacciavite con testa a croce Phillips #0, rimuovi le tre viti nere da 2 mm che fissano il bordo interno della scheda madre.
    • Usando un cacciavite con testa a croce Phillips #0, rimuovi le tre viti nere da 2 mm che fissano il bordo interno della scheda madre.

    • Con lo stesso cacciavite, rimuovi le cinque viti cromate da 3 mm che bloccano il bordo esterno della scheda madre.

    There is also a ZIF connector on the BOTTOM of the motherboard that must first be released, before completely lifting the board out!

    Gary Lent - Replica

    CORRECTION --- There is also a ZIF connector on the BOTTOM of the motherboard, connected to the camera. The camera must be pried loose before the motherboard can be lifted out. NO need to release ZIF.

    Gary Lent - Replica

  21. Solleva con cura la scheda madre tenendola per i bordi e rimuovila dall'involucro del tablet. La fotocamera è collegata direttamente alla parte inferiore della scheda madre e potrebbe venire via dal tablet insieme alla scheda madre, ma potrebbe anche non farlo. In questo caso, come illustrato, devi usare le pinzette per estrarre la fotocamera dal suo alloggiamento.
    • Solleva con cura la scheda madre tenendola per i bordi e rimuovila dall'involucro del tablet.

    • La fotocamera è collegata direttamente alla parte inferiore della scheda madre e potrebbe venire via dal tablet insieme alla scheda madre, ma potrebbe anche non farlo. In questo caso, come illustrato, devi usare le pinzette per estrarre la fotocamera dal suo alloggiamento.

    • La rimozione della scheda madre coprirà l'altoparlante superiore che era tenuta in posizione dalla scheda stessa. Se prevedi di cambiare l'altoparlante superiore, ora puoi semplicemente tirarlo fuori dal dispositivo.

    Careful when comparing to this picture. Actually, the camera which can be seen on the left oh the housing in this picture is connected to the board.

    Thomas Isele - Replica

    Removing the camera is necessary, as it is impossible (with any tool I have, anyway) to reconnect the camera to the motherboard while it is still in the housing. However, doing so was quite a pain on my machine as it not only did not "lift out of the tablet with the motherboard", but it also was stuck in there so tightly I wondered if it might be glued. I needed to spend several minutes gently prying it out with pliers.

    pacmanmaster - Replica

    Agreed!>>>> Camera is GLUED down, and must be pried prior to lifting out motherboard

    Gary Lent - Replica

    I would add that it’s imperative to loosen the camera from its housing before attempting to remove the motherboard. The two are connected via another very short ribbon cable with zif connector. Trying to pull the motherboard out with the camera still stuck to the front could damage the cable/connector. In my mind it’s safer for both to come out together while still connected.

    Cool_Breeze - Replica

    Also, see that conductive strip in the lower right corner of the first picture with the brownish tape on the metal backplane? Many replacements do not come with that. If you look on the back of the motherboard there is a copper strip that matches this conductive strip. It connects this copper strip on the motherboard to the metal backplane of the touch screen and helps the touchscreen work properly. It doesn’t peal off easily so work at it carefully.

    wa3pyi - Replica

  22. Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips #0 per rimuovere le due viti da ciascuna estremità dell'altoparlante. Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips #0 per rimuovere le due viti da ciascuna estremità dell'altoparlante.
    • Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips #0 per rimuovere le due viti da ciascuna estremità dell'altoparlante.

  23. Solleva con cautela dal dispositivo l'altoparlante inferiore.
    • Solleva con cautela dal dispositivo l'altoparlante inferiore.

  24. Una volta che hai rimosso la cover posteriore, la batteria, la scheda figlia, la scheda madre e gli altoparlanti, resta il gruppo LCD.
    • Una volta che hai rimosso la cover posteriore, la batteria, la scheda figlia, la scheda madre e gli altoparlanti, resta il gruppo LCD.

    • A seconda di come è fatta la tua parte sostitutiva, potrebbe essere necessario separare il telaio dall'LCD/digitizer.

    • Per rimuovere l'LCD/digitizer, scalda con cautela il bordo con una pistola termica e usa una lama sottile per tagliare l'adesivo. Procedi lentamente e riscalda spesso, perché il vetro si rompe molto facilmente. Attorno a tutti i bordi e tira fuori delicatamente l'LCD/digitizer dal suo alloggiamento.

    how is the frame attached to the LCD panel? I cracked my screen and looking at replacement LCD and digitizer, but I figure that the frame should be removed from the original screen as well

    csabaholman - Replica

    The frame is attached to the LCD/Digitizer by a layer of double-sided adhesive tape, essentially, or more accurately several pieces of tape. It's very important, once you get to the last step, to HEAT the edges (I used a hairdryer on high) and SLOWLY pry more and more away using proper plastic spudges. I learned the hard way that you can easily shatter the screen if you rush this step. You can still remove all the bits, but it's time consuming, and if you simply accept going slowly, you will actually save time.

    Jason Baker -

    If you get the front panel assembly part, it is the entire front glass, frame, and LCD panel. Which is good, because I can't imagine having to replace those pieces separately on top of everything else.

    yuguoxiong - Replica

    I've just separated the frame from the front glass using a domestic hairdryer and a butter knife.

    I removed the ribbon cable (peel black sticker from housing, flip black part of ZIF connector, slide ribbon out) the power /volume button thing (tweezers, from connector end, it's stuck on with tape) and gold/silver sticker you can see on photo.

    I then covered the middle section on the glass side with electrical tape, anything without plastic underneath and the camera holes. I evenly heated glass side on hottest setting of hairdryer, moving the hairdryer around and slid the knife under the middle sides and corners opposite the camera end. I reheated it a couple of times more. A few bits around the edges stuck to the adhesive, but were easily pulled off with the tape.

    Suggest wearing latex gloves and glasses as a few shards flew up, but it was easier and quicker than getting the back of the tablet off!

    nikkishaw - Replica

    VERY IMPORTANT! Do you see that large orange ribbon cable in the picture. Dont expect to get that from the ifixit replacement part. You will need to remove it and replace it along with that small cable with the adhesive along the side. Both these notes should be in the guide. Also be careful that when you are pulling up that small piece of electrical tape that you dont pull that tiny lock lever off the connection. I managed to reconnect it...but a heads up on this would have been helpful. I would READ all the comments before attempting this repair.

    gocaps25 - Replica

    Good tip on the orange ribbon cable, it does not typically come with the spare part when purchasing the LCD/Digitizer replacement.

    Jason Baker -

    this step was a total MOTHERXXcker!!! i would strongly advise just to have the part that has the plastic housing. ok assembly starts now!

    Yael Dakar - Replica

    Plastic frame and heat gun are a bad combination. Melted my frame in several places.

    Masking tape is useful for picking up tiny shards of glass.

    ebay - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Jillian Brown

Membro da: 22/01/2015

2.283 Reputazione

2 Guide realizzate

Team

Cal Poly, Team 20-16, Maness Winter 2015 Membro di Cal Poly, Team 20-16, Maness Winter 2015

CPSU-MANESS-W15S20G16

4 Membri

24 Guide realizzate

This provided a nice overview to replace the front panel assembly, but there were a couple items not covered or that could have been more clear (see my comments on Steps 3, 10, 14, 16, and 18).

yuguoxiong - Replica

Excellent guide. I wasn't confident I could do it but I'm writing this using the new screen now...

Bob - Replica

As far as "Flipping up the White part"....the author HAS clearly included links for this if you are unfamiliar....To me....Very well written!!...and no...I'm not the author, nor do I know him....Nice job!

Craig Robichaud - Replica

Worked for me, thanks very much.

jamesstrowger - Replica

So there is no way to replace just touch screen digitizer separate of still functioning LCD screen in 2nd generation NEXUS 7 released in 2013?

Jaro - Replica

The digitizer and LCD are fused together at the factory with industrial adhesives. While it is theoretically possible to separate them and re-adhere an unbroken digitizer to the LCD screen, in practice this requires specialized tools, and is seldom worth the cost to pay those who do have the tools and expertise, as the repair would cost as much as the device. Replacing the LCD/Digitizer is the most economical, but replacing the entire display assembly including the frame is apparently possible and avoids the step of heating the adhesive tape securing the display unit to the frame.

Jason Baker -

Hello,

Many thanks for the guide. Could you tell if would be a good thing to have a guide with the compatible displays across different devices, tablets, phones ?

Eg. Would be possible to use the nexus 7 display on the Samsung Tab7.0 Plus or the display of the Galaxy tab A 7.0 on the Tab 7.0 Plus? Or would be possible to exchange the tab 7.0 plus display with a better compatible 7.0 inch display from a diferent tablet ?

Thank you,

George

George F. - Replica

Luckily I have a pro standard heat gun. Set to 150oC and gentle blow, the glue releases enough to slide a swiss army knife blade around the edges; the old screen cracks as it comes away .. but it was cracked anyway.

The problem then is fixing the new screen ..it comes pre-glued with strong contact adhesive and there is also glue on the old frame; as soon as it touches, it's stuck. I got mine very slightly off centre and when I tried to push it into place the new screen cracked.

Back to square 1. Worth another £27 for another go? Not sure.

!&&* if this is a 7/10 for repairability, I'm glad I wasn't trying to mend a Microsoft Surface pro!!

Nick Arran - Replica

Good clear instructions here. The hardest part I can confirm was removing the old, damaged screen from the frame. I hadn't realised that the screen was attached to a frame and I had just ordered the replacement LCD digitiser. It was a pure pain in the back side but using a hairdryer I eventually got the old screen off by basically heating and prying all the screen of. It broke into loads of pieces but i just systematically worked my way around the frame. Luckily there was enough glue residue left on the frame to stick the new one in place and its holding well. Back up and running with my excellent NEXUS. Thanks guys for the guide. Invaluable!!!!

Iain McIntyre - Replica

Way, way easier if you just buy the complete assembly LCD. Done in exactly 40 minutes. Extremely well detailed guide.

Connor Pescatore - Replica

My nexus 7 1st gen has a nonresponsive part on screen. I tried replacing screen its still got that one spot, right around the lower middle left. When held vertical.

Kyle Wandler - Replica

Worked for me, many thanks.

Andrew Dodds - Replica

You folks helped me resurrect my Nexus 7, many thanks. I really needed it fixed since a drunk friend (?) accidentally dropped my Samsung tablet into the pool. It was a replacement from my Nexus 7 with the broken screen. Thanks Again. Now, onto the section with the Samsung tab. :-)

Thomas Wroblewski - Replica

Nice guide! Thanks.

Only one questchen.

The little round CON5501 on the motherboard - what is it?

Al Braker - Replica

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