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Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7

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  1. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Viti Pentalobe: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria agli ioni di litio carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.

    • Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm nella parte inferiore del tuo iPhone.

    • Lo smontaggio del display dell'iPhone danneggerà le guarnizioni impermeabili. Devi avere pronte delle guarnizioni sostitutive prima di procedere con il passo successivo, oppure fare attenzione all'intrusione di liquidi nel tuo iPhone se lo rimonterai senza sostituire le guarnizioni.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Replica

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Replica

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Replica

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Replica

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Replica

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Replica

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Replica

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Replica

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Replica

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Replica

    They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.

    Anthony Falabella -

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Replica

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Replica

    At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Replica

    I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

    I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

    Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Replica

    I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.

    I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.

    The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?

    H K - Replica

  2. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Segna i tuoi plettri: passo 2, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Segna i tuoi plettri: passo 2, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Segna i tuoi plettri: passo 2, immagine 3 di 3
    • Se inserito troppo a fondo, un plettro per l'apertura può danneggiare il tuo dispositivo. Segui i passi di questa guida per segnare il tuo plettro ed prevenire eventuali danni.

    • Misura 3 mm dalla punta del plettro e segna questa distanza con un pennarello indelebile.

    • Puoi anche segnare gli altri angoli del plettro con altre misure.

    • Alternativamente, ferma con del nastro adesivo una moneta al plettro a 3mm dalla sua punta.

  3. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Istruzioni per l'Anti-Clamp: passo 3, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Istruzioni per l'Anti-Clamp: passo 3, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Istruzioni per l'Anti-Clamp: passo 3, immagine 3 di 3
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Compra
    • I prossimi tre passaggi ti spiegherano come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, uno strumento che abbiamo studiato per rendere la procedura di apertura più facile. Se non stai usando l'Anti-Clamp, salta questi tre passaggi e continua con un metodo alternativo.

    • Per istruzioni complete su come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, dai un'occhiata a questa guida.

    • Tira la manopola blu verso la cerniera per disattivare la modalità di apertura.

    • Posiziona la ventosa vicino al bordo inferiore dello schermo: una davanti e una dietro.

    • Spingi sulle ventose in modo tale che possano fare presa sull'area desiderata.

    • Se trovi che la superficie del tuo dispositivo sia così scivolosa da impedire all'Anti-Clamp di aderire, puoi usare del nastro adesivo per formare un superficie più aderente.

  4. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 4, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 4, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 4, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tira la manopola blu in avanti per bloccare i bracci.

    • Gira la manopola in senso orario di 360 gradi o fino a quando le ventose iniziano ad allungarsi.

    • Assicurati che le ventose siano allineate fra loro. Se dovessero iniziare a scivolare, allenta leggermente le ventose e riallinea i braccetti.

  5. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 5, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 5, immagine 2 di 2
    • Scalda un iOpener e infilalo tra i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.

    • Puoi usare anche un asciugacapelli, una pistola termica o una piastra calda, ma troppo calore può danneggiare lo schermo e la batteria interna, quindi procedi con attenzione.

    • Piega l'iOpener in modo che poggi sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • Attendi un minuto per dare all'adesivo una possibilità di staccarsi e formare una fessura di apertura.

    • Inserisci il plettro di apertura nella fessura.

    • Se l'Anti-Clamp non dovesse formare un'apertura sufficientemente ampia, applica più calore sull'area e ruota la manopola un quarto di giro.

    • Non girare più di un quarto di giro a volta, e aspetta un minuto tra un giro e l'altro. Lascia che l'Anti-clamp e il tempo facciano il lavoro per te.

    • Salta i tre passaggi successivi.

  6. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Riscalda lo schermo: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • I tre passaggi successivi mostrano come separare lo schermo utilizzando una ventosa.

    • Il riscaldamento del bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che blocca il display, semplificando l'apertura.

    • Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo per circa 90 secondi al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

  7. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Stacca lo schermo: passo 7, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Stacca lo schermo: passo 7, immagine 2 di 2
    • Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home per assicurare un adeguato sigillo tra la ventosa e il vetro frontale.

  8. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tira la ventosa applicando una tensione forte e costante fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo dello schermo e la scocca.

    • Inserisci nella fessura un plettro di apertura.

    • L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione lo schermo è molto tenace. La creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, applica altro calore e muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo strumento di apertura.

  9. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 9, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 9, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 9, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il tuo attrezzo lungo il bordo sinistro del telefono, spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.

    • Fermati vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro del display.

    • Non cercare di forzare il distacco del display dal case posteriore, perché è tenuto in posizione da clip di plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

  10. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Informazioni sullo schermo: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Ci sono dei cavi flessibili delicati lungo il bordo destro del tuo iPhone. Non inserire il tuo plettro lì, dato che potresti danneggiare i cavi flessibili.

  11. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Inserisci nuovamente il tuo attrezzo nell'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPhone e fallo scorrere attorno all'angolo e lungo il lato destro del telefono per separare l'adesivo.

    • Non inserire il plettro per più di 3 mm: potresti danneggiare i cavi dello schermo.

  12. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 12, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 12, immagine 2 di 2
    • Tira dolcemente la ventosa per sollevare il lato inferiore del display.

    • Non sollevare il display più di 15° per evitare il rischio di stirare o strappare i cavi piatti di connessione del display.

    • Tira la linguetta per staccare la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.

  13. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 13, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 13, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 13, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura sotto il display attorno all'angolo superiore sinistro e lungo il bordo superiore del telefono per allentare l'adesivo rimasto.

  14. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 14, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 14, immagine 2 di 2
    • Fai scorrere lievemente il gruppo display verso il basso (allontanandolo dal bordo superiore del telefono) per liberarlo dalle clip che lo collegano al case posteriore.

  15. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato sinistro, come per sollevare la copertina posteriore di un libro.

    • Non cercare di staccare del tutto il display, perché questo è ancora connesso alla scheda logica dell'iPhone da diversi fragili cavi piatti.

    • Appoggia il display contro qualche tipo di supporto per mantenerlo aperto mentre lavori sul telefono.

  16. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Disconnessione Batteria: passo 16, immagine 1 di 1
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver
    $5.99
    Compra

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Replica

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Replica

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Replica

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Replica

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Replica

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Replica

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Replica

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Replica

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Replica

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Replica

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Replica

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Replica

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Replica

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - Replica

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Replica

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Replica

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Replica

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Replica

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Replica

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Replica

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Replica

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Replica

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Replica

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard - Replica

    A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

    Jack - Replica

  17. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del connettore.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Replica

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Replica

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Replica

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

  18. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 18, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 18, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 18, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega leggermente di lato il cavo del connettore per impedire che possa far contatto con lo zoccolino e quindi possa alimentare il telefono.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Replica

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Replica

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Replica

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Replica

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

    It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

    Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

    PJM - Replica

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all! Careful removing the lower bracket - mine was stuck to this battery connector, which came up with the bracket. Luckily no cable or connector damage. Be careful. Thank you all!

    dantegd - Replica

    after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level

    Neil Mills - Replica

  19. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Gruppo Display: passo 19, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Gruppo Display: passo 19, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Gruppo Display: passo 19, immagine 3 di 3
    • In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per staccare i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.

    • Per riconnettere questi cavi, premi da un'estremità finché senti il clic che indica il blocco, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente disallineato, il connettore può piegarsi, portando a danni permanenti.

    • Se dopo aver rimontato il telefono ti ritrovi con uno schermo bianco, linee bianche sul display oppure se manca, del tutto o in parte, la risposta touch, prova a staccare e riattaccare con cura entrambi questi cavi e assicurati che siano ben bloccati in posizione.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

    minimalist - Replica

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Replica

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Replica

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Replica

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Replica

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Replica

    Same happened to me. What solution did you find? Could you replace a part to make it work? Thank you!

    Viktoria -

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Replica

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Replica

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Replica

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. - Replica

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard - Replica

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey - Replica

    I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(

    Viktoria -

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes - Replica

    I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!

    Viktoria -

    thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.

    soupamanx -

    Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

    Viktoria - Replica

  20. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 20, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 20, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 20, immagine 3 di 3
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.

    • Alcuni telefoni potrebbero avere viti Y000. Apple ha iniziato a utilizzare Y000 per questi a un certo punto a metà del ciclo di vita del prodotto.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Replica

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Replica

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Replica

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Replica

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Replica

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Replica

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Replica

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Replica

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Replica

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Replica

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Replica

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Replica

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Replica

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Replica

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Replica

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Replica

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Replica

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F - Replica

    This worked for me! As mentioned use PH000 and apply pressure and then unscrew the screws. They are tiny, adhere to a piece of tape so you don't lose them.

    Rosie J - Replica

  21. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 21, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 21, immagine 2 di 2
    • Stacca il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Questo connettore a pressione deve essere riconnesso un'estremità alla volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Replica

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Replica

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - Replica

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - Replica

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily - Replica

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia - Replica

  22. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 22, immagine 1 di 1

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Replica

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Replica

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Replica

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.

    If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!

    If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.

    Rosie J - Replica

  23. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Sfiato Barometrico: passo 23, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,9 mm che fissano lo sfiato barometrico al case posteriore.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil - Replica

    I’m stucked with the right screw, can't get it out. Any ideas?

    Racecar - Replica

    Edit: I’ve lifted the taptic engine without unplugging it. Removing the battery stripes didn't cause any issues.

    Racecar -

    I didn't see the necessity, so I didn't remove the Barometric Vent since I decided I wasn't going to uplug the Taptic Engine, although I did remove screws for the Taptic Engine, but I didn't unplug it. I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J - Replica

  24. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 24, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 24, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi lo sfiato.

  25. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Taptic Engine: passo 25, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Taptic Engine: passo 25, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del Taptic Engine dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J - Replica

  26. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 26, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,6 mm che fissano il Taptic Engine al case posteriore.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Replica

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb - Replica

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb - Replica

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

    Phil - Replica

    another person checking in here to assure you that, if you find a stripped screw (or more) at this step, you’re not crazy. I have one as well! I’m in dis-effing-belief. This phone has NEVER been serviced by anyone, and was allegedly brand new when purchased.

    To the person suggesting a dremel tool to remedy this…. *blink**Blink*. Are you kidding me right now? *slap*. Vibrating the !&&* out of all those sensitive parts - not to mention what one slip could end in your phone being effectively sawed in half.

    Cunning Stunt - Replica

  27. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 27, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 27, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi il Taptic Engine.

  28. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Gruppo altoparlante: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita la vite Phillips che fissa l'antenna diversity del Wi-Fi al case posteriore:

    • Una vite da 3,2 mm

  29. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 29, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le tre viti Phillips che fissano l'altoparlante al case posteriore:

    • Due viti da 1,3 mm

    • Una vita da 2,0 mm

  30. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 30, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 30, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 30, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare i connettori dei due cavi dell'antenna dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre.

    Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?

    Mohd Wazirul - Replica

    Speaker and antenna?

    Keah Smith - Replica

    I'm missing the black thing from my antenna and I have no signal, could this be the reason why? Is the black thing insulation?

    Keah Smith - Replica

    These doodads are a pain to route and reconnect. I probably spent 15 minutes just on this part of reassembly. One of them is connected to the new part. It won’t have the soft grommet on top.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    One of these came away from its base. The one nearest the battery.

    When I reassemble it I’m thinking just a bit of glue at the side once re attached to base, so lomg as it touches the base contacts?

    Any comments?

    ANDREW - Replica

    I am having the worst time imaginable trying to reconnect the antenna cable coming from the lightening connector assembly to the logic board. It’s barely long enough and will not snap into place. There’s a minature gold pin sticking up from a circular gold ring on the logic board and I must have spent an hour on this one step. The antenna end has the female end. Everything else went well. The antenna connector from the old lightening assembly will connect relatively quickly. I’m beginning to think the new antenna connector female end might be defective. I’m ready to cut the black antenna wire and try to solder in a longer piece using the old connector assembly. Any ideas? HELP !!!

    David Sandrof - Replica

    These can be tricky to reconnect. I found the best way is to hold the connector with tweezers and use the point of a spudger on top of the connector in the other hand. Slowly moving the connector with the tweezers while applying gentle pressure with the spudger, you will eventually feel the connector and its seat line up and you can snap into place. Don’t force it, when it is lined up it is easy so you have to patiently work on aligning it.

    David Ege - Replica

    please say which antenna is which, impossible to know now

    Mitchell Thompson - Replica

    Tip that helped me: remove the standoff screw next to the clip before derouting (or, upon reassembly, rerouting) the cables. This gives you a lot more space to work with! (Note: I only did this on reassembly, so I don’t know if there are any gotchas on disassembly.)

    T Murrills - Replica

    Please pay close attention to witch one goes where or take a picture bad mistake made.

    michael - Replica

  31. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 31, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 31, immagine 2 di 2
    • Stacca i cavi dell'antenna della loro staffa sulla scheda madre con delle pinzette.

  32. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 32, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 32, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usando ancora le pinzette, rimuovi i cavi dell'antenna dalla clip sull'altoparlante.

    • Assicurati di afferrare il cavo vicino alla clip per evitare di danneggiarlo.

    They pull off to the side.

    Ark - Replica

    This was an oddly challenging step, lifting the speaker slightly from the top end allowed me to slide the tips of one side of the tweezers in between the cable and the speaker, prying it out rather than grabbing and pulling which feels dangerous.

    Jesse de Vries -

    They break very easily

    Josh Brito - Replica

    difficile a retirer. Les 2 tables sont clipsés sur le haut parleur. Il m’a bien fallu 10 - 15 minutes pour arriver a les retirer. Aucune astuce a vous donner, a part de la persévérance.

    Guigui - Replica

    One cable seems to stay attached to the speaker. Don’t try to pry it off the speaker! This is shown in the video but not in these photos.

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

  33. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 33, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 33, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scivolare il gruppo altoparlante verso la scheda madre e toglierlo del case posteriore.

  34. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 34, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi l'altoparlante.

    Reassembly tip: after aligning the speaker with the bottom edge, instead of lowering the speaker into place, keep the speaker raised slightly and push the cables back into the clip (which were removed in step 28) with the flat end of a spudger. In doing so, though, make sure that the cable from the lightning connector piece remains above the flat metal piece protruding out the left side of the speaker.

    T Murrills - Replica

  35. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Scheda SIM: passo 35, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Scheda SIM: passo 35, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Scheda SIM: passo 35, immagine 3 di 3
    • Inserisci uno strumento per l'estrazione della scheda SIM o una graffetta nel piccolo foro nel vassoio della scheda SIM.

    • Premi per estrarre il vassoio.

    • Questa azione richiede di applicare una forza abbastanza significativa. Comunque, assicurati che lo strumento per l’estrazione sia allineato correttamente in modo da non danneggiare il meccanismo di espulsione all’interno del telefono.

    • Rimuovi il vassoio della scheda SIM dall'iPhone.

    • Quando reinserisci la scheda, assicurati che sia orientata correttamente nel vassoio.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - Replica

    Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

    Rebecca Diakun - Replica

    I used the tip of the super pointy tweezers, and it worked well.

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

  36. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Connettori scheda logica: passo 36, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Connettori scheda logica: passo 36, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore della fotocamera posteriore.

  37. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 37, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 37, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips che fissano la staffa della fotocamera posteriore al case posteriore:

    • Una vite da 1,3 mm

    • Una vite da 2,5 mm

    I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    i removed them with PH000

    Flavien - Replica

  38. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 38, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi la staffa.

  39. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 39, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 39, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per far leva e staccare il connettore del cavo del bus dell'antenna, appena a sinistra del modulo della fotocamera posteriore.

    There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

    Achim Breidenbach - Replica

    I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

    Daniel Buhler - Replica

  40. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 40, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le due viti tri-wing da 1,2 mm che bloccano la staffa del cavo superiore.

    these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

    Narendra Mane - Replica

    ok with Y000 from pro tool kit

    Flavien - Replica

    Had to push down to get the Y000 in place

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

  41. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 41, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 41, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi la staffa del cavo superiore.

  42. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 42, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 42, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo superiore.

    Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

    Johnny Bolaños - Replica

  43. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 43, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 43, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi le quattro viti a croce Phillips di fissaggio dell'antenna Wi-Fi:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 1,7 mm

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - Replica

    There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

    tbaiello - Replica

    How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

    Kyle Victor - Replica

    The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

    Loopy75 - Replica

    Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

    ANDREW - Replica

    Yes : 4 screws and not 3 !!

    sirthomasnardin -

  44. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 44, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 44, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi l'antenna superiore sinistra.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Replica

  45. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 45, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips:

    • Una vite da 1,3 mm

    • Una vite da 2,2 mm

    Möglicherweise muss man den Kleber zuerst entfernen!

    Evan Winter - Replica

  46. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 46, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 46, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi la staffa.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Replica

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Replica

  47. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 47, immagine 1 di 1
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    Compra
    • Rimuovi il distanziale a vite da 2,2 mm dalla staffa di terra.

    • Per rimuovere distanziali a vite l'ideale è usare un cacciavite per distanziali o una punta dello stesso tipo.

    • In caso di emergenza, può bastare un piccolo cacciavite a taglio, ma è necessaria un'estrema cautela per evitare che scivolando possa danneggiare i componenti circostanti.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Replica

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Replica

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Replica

    Its in the toolkit now. Looks like a Philips head but up close the end is squared off with a point in the middle.

    Jesse de Vries -

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Replica

    The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

    Robert Trammel - Replica

    Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

    Mike Ruzicka - Replica

    I used standoff bit for iPhone from my pro tool kit

    Flavien - Replica

  48. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 48, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 48, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa delle pinzette per piegare delicatamente la staffa di messa a terra della scheda logica in modo che non dia fastidio.

    I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

    Mustifa shah - Replica

    I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

    Did you find a replacement?

    Ben Schorr - Replica

    Did your phone work ?

    Emin -

    also broken does it work without?

    Emin - Replica

    I broke mine while doing this step. A bit confusing. You’re just supposed to bend it out the way, not pull on it entirely. Will the phone still work without this?

    Chandler Forrest - Replica

    $@$*, i broke the grounding bracket

    Z1xus - Replica

    I just didnt bend this one.. Ill tell you how it went

    Lauren Campbell - Replica

  49. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Gruppo connettore Lightning: passo 49, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7, Gruppo connettore Lightning: passo 49, immagine 2 di 2
    • Disconnetti il connettore del cavo inferiore con la punta di uno spudger.

    This is ‘hinged’ on the battery side.

    Eugene Gardner - Replica

    For reassembly start here and work forwards. This connection is critical to successful placement of the lightning connector assembly which is glued to the back of the case.

    rushbc - Replica

  50. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 50, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le viti seguenti:

    • Una vite Phillips da 1,4 mm

    • Tre distanziali a vite da 2,2 mm

    • Per rimuovere distanziali a vite l'ideale è usare un cacciavite per distanziali a vite o una punta per distanziali a vite e l'impugnatura cacciavite.

    • In caso di necessità, può bastare un piccolo cacciavite a lama piatta, ma è necessaria un'estrema cautela per evitare che scivolando possa danneggiare i componenti circostanti.

    The lowest standoff screw is different than others, so be careful when reinstaling them

    dominik.balasko - Replica

  51. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 51, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 51, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere lo stantuffo del sistema di estrazione della scheda SIM via dalla scheda madre.

  52. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 52, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 52, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare la scheda madre dalla parte del connettore della batteria.

    • Assicurati di non appoggiarti contro un cavo. Se percepisci una resistenza, verifica che nessun cavo, connettore o componente interferisca con la scheda.

    Assurez-vous à cette étape (au moment du remontage) que le connecteur de l'antenne (que vous voyez à l’étape 35) est bien par dessus votre carte mère et qu’l n’est pas passé dessous !!!

    Laurent LABRUNIE - Replica

  53. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 53, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 53, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 53, immagine 3 di 3
    • Afferra la scheda madre dall'estremità del connettore della batteria, sollevala verso l'alto e rimuovila dal case posteriore.

    • Fai attenzione a evitare che la scheda madre si impigli in qualche cavo.

    Reassembly note: Remember to tuck the logic board under the logic board grounding bracket that we loosened in step #44.

    Ark - Replica

    Remember to remove the SIM card eject plunger (see step 47) or you may loose it seeing as there is no longer anything to stop it dropping out.

    Alex Thompson - Replica

    stick a small bit of sellotape over the sim card plunger hole to prevent it dropping out.

    ANDREW - Replica

    Reassembly note:

    Peel up a couple centimeters of the lightening port and plug it in to the logic board *before* seating the logic board. Doing this, you can perfectly line up the connector and hold it to the board as you jimmy everything in to place. This makes the hardest part of the job a no-brainer.

    jason4 - Replica

  54. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 54, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi la vite Phillips da 2,9 mm dal connettore Lightning.

    Haven’t had any issues with any of the screws so far. Nothing stuck or even threatening to strip. Could it be that people are using the wrong driver bit and getting into trouble that way? You regularly have to swap between tri and normal 4 blade Phillips heads, best to double check each time.

    Jesse de Vries - Replica

    Thread the screw through the spring contact before screwing it back in for an easier reassembly.

    jason4 - Replica

  55. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 55, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 55, immagine 2 di 2
    • Togli il contatto a molla dal connettore Lightning.

    What’s the purpose of this contact? Is it just a ground?

    Josh M - Replica

    Not sure but dont forget to place it

    Josh Brito - Replica

    I forfait it, watt I have to search for buy it

    TONY IDEA - Replica

    Scary thought - did you manage to find one?

    Jesse de Vries -

  56. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 56, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le due viti Phillips da 1,6 mm che tengono il cavo del connettore Lightning in posizione.

  57. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 57, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 57, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 57, immagine 3 di 3
    • Rimuovi i due sticker che coprono le viti che fissano il connettore Lightning alla parte bassa del case posteriore.

    This step makes the whole guide invaluable! Those sneaky devils hide the screws perfectly!

    Ron Stanford - Replica

    I just ripped one.Never did a regular 7 thee only iPhone I’ve never done.Im pissd.Not sure if I should just pull another from a good phone or hook it up and see if it still works it looks like there grounding screws smh it’s only because for 2 years I had a used 7 housing I always bump into when going through my parts and whoever had that before me also ripped it but in both spots.So when the charge port wouldn’t come up I broke it smh

    Vegeta Barrett - Replica

  58. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 58, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,2 mm dal case posteriore.

    What are these connectors 4? I noticed a tiny chip next to the one on the right if you're looking at the phone face-to-face and on the backside of the charging port is some heavy circuitry for the left side... If the one on the right is broken what can a person expect their phone to do differently? Is this connector on the right hand side of the charging port attributed to anything specifically? Will my phone operate as normal without this?

    billybarter - Replica

    It should be noted that these two 1.3 mm Phillips screws are different from the other 1.3 mm Philips screws removed in steps 16, 25, 33, and 41. All those screws are identical, but these two have a slightly wider shank so they won’t fit in the others’ bores.

    Matthew Sweger - Replica

    I dropped one of these screws, never to be found again. The replacement port doesn’t work for me now - would this missing screw be the culprit, or is it something else?

    A5BXL - Replica

    I'm not able to remove these screws with the screwdriver Phillips that was used throughout the rest of this repair. How do I remove them safely?

    tollesonuniversity - Replica

  59. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 59, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 59, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare i due microfoni dal bordo inferiore del case posteriore.

    When reassembling, the right microphone (the one on the left in the above picture) has a metal back that has two alignment tabs. One is on the bottom left, and if you just try to push the microphone down into position it will be held up by the tab. The tab is black plastic and not real apparent unless you have some decent light on it.

    bronyaur - Replica

    Everything popped out when I disassembled mine. I was able to get the spacers apart after the lightning connector was out. My kit came with new ones, but I just used the old ones. As the above comment states, there are alignment tabs on each one that are hard to see. Be sure to use the adhesive strips that come in the kit.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    May I suggest not bothering to separate the microphone , and thus avoid dmage, ..juts release the rectangular foam as a complete assembly, its just stuck to the bottom of the case each side. less risky than trying to prize off the micro phones.

    issues so far

    Ive had one small glitch so far …one the anntenas, the one nearest the battery, came off its base. Im hoping to just reconnect to base to make a contact and secure after with a spot of glue each side…

    ANDREW - Replica

    This step was surprisingly hard - the plastic guitar pick was a bit finer and made it easier. Perhaps some heating helped as well?

    Jesse de Vries - Replica

    I agree with Andrew - just taken the foam bits out and either replace with the new ones that come with the kit or swap over. My tip would be don’t reinsert them until you’ve got the lightning connector in place when reversing steps, as they get caught otherwise.

    Donald Waters - Replica

  60. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 60, immagine 1 di 1
    • Riscaldare la parte inferiore dell'iPhone aiuterà ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che fissa il cavo del connettore Lightning e renderà più facile la rimozione.

    • Utilizza un asciugacapelli o riscalda il tuo iOpener per scaldare la parte inferiore del telefono.

    • Aspetta circa un minuto finché l'adesivo sia caldo per procedere al passo successivo.

  61. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 61, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 61, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 61, immagine 3 di 3
    • Iniziando dalla parte centrale del telefono, fai scorrere un plettro di apertura sotto il connettore Lightning per staccarlo dal case posteriore.

  62. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 62, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 62, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 62, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continua a far scorrere il plettro verso il connettore Lightning per staccare il gruppo dal case posteriore.

  63. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 63, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 63, immagine 2 di 2
    • Continua a far scorrere il plettro sotto il gruppo connettore Lightning.

    • Fermati dopo aver oltrepassato la batteria.

    Could I use something like an hotel card instead?

    Kenneth Wang - Replica

  64. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 64, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 64, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 64, immagine 3 di 3
    • Iniziando dall'angolo del telefono, fai scorrere il plettro sotto il gruppo verso il connettore Lightning.

    • Ferma il movimento del plettro quando raggiungi il connettore lightning.

  65. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 65, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 65, immagine 2 di 2
    • Tira con cautela il connettore Lightning fuori dalla sua fessura nel case posteriore.

  66. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 66, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 66, immagine 2 di 2
    • Fai scorrere un plettro sotto il connettore Lightning per continuare a staccare il gruppo dal case posteriore.

    • Fallo scorrere finché il gruppo connettore Lightning non aderisca più al case posteriore.

    Getting this thing out really wasn’t that big of a deal. Of note, if you’re also replacing the batter this is a good spot to put the new one in.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

  67. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 67, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 67, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 67, immagine 3 di 3
    • Rimuovi il gruppo connettore Lightning.

    • Prima di rimontare o sostituire il gruppo connettore Lightning:

    • Utilizza un attrezzo di plastica per staccare ogni adesivo residuo dal case posteriore.

    • Assicurati di posizionare il gruppo connettore Lightning in modo che i due punti bianchi sul case posteriore dell'iPhone compaiano attraverso i due fori tondi del cavo flessibile del connettore Lightning. In caso contrario il cavo sarà disallineato e non sarà possibile riconnetterlo al suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.

    I'd go so far as to say line the holes up first before you secure the rest of that part. There is no room for error here!

    Jesse de Vries - Replica

    Totally agree, it is absolutely paramount that it has to be perfect, as my three attempts at re-assembly can attest to!

    Donald Waters - Replica

    I said this on step 49, but since you guys are mentioning it here, DEFINITELY plug the lightening port in to the logic board before seating the logic board. Then your exact placement doesn’t matter, as long as it’s relatively okay.

    jason4 - Replica

  68. Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 68, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 68, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7: passo 68, immagine 3 di 3
    • Una guarnizione di gomma sulla parte inferiore del connettore Lightning protegge il tuo iPhone contro l'intrusione di acqua e polvere. Se installi un nuovo gruppo connettore Lightning, dovrai forse rimuovere e trasferire la guarnizione sulla nuova parte.

    • Anche il piccolo pezzo di adesivo sotto ogni microfono protegge il tuo iPhone contro l'intrusione di acqua e polvere. L'ideale è sostituire i due pezzi di adesivo prima di installare il tuo gruppo connettore Lightning.

    It would be nice to have tips for the best way to actually apply the adheasives on the lightning assembly to beat maintain proper positioning. Otherwise, great guide!

    Casey Morton - Replica

    agreed!! I am staring at these tiny adhesive pieces and a bit stumped!!!

    info - Replica

    So.. my new lightning assembly had a yellow piece of plastic over the right microphone. Wasn’t sure if it was blocking the opening, so I removed it. Found a small hole in the plastic. Anyone else get one like that?

    doubt it will affect it’s function, and since the old one was bad…. can’t be worse than it was before.

    i’ll double back once it’s back together.

    Dean Allan Land - Replica

    Plastic liners—yellow or otherwise—should definitely be peeled off and discarded before installing any new parts. You done good. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The gasket is a pain. I’m not even convinced I did it right. The guide stops here and lets you figure out the installation on your own. You can screw yourself if the new connector isn’t placed just right as the connector won’t align. Use the old adhesive areas as guides. I had to take my new part out and install it a second time to get the cable connected. I imagine the usual error is it is too high. The connector ribbon should bend down toward the case just above the connector. Seriously, millimeters count here.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    I reconnected the battery to when putting the new sealer in then disconnected it before I reconnected the screen. New batteries come with a charge. It’s best to connect that last.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    It would be good to have some additional steps explaining how to install the Speaker and Microphone Mesh Set that comes with the kit. I did appreciate that it was included but it took some fiddling around (and almost ruining the seals) before I figured out where the parts needed to go and still I ended up with 2 tiny black gaskets, that looked similar to the microphone gakets, that I couldn’t place and ended up not using. If they were important, I’ll find out soon I guess :D.

    Wimar Schippers - Replica

    all this is great and all, but how do I reinstall all the stuff I took out of the phone. Am I seposed to scroll backward step for step from 64 to 1?

    yosef Teklezgi - Replica

    Amazing guide thanks so much! It would be great to show how to reattach the new lightning connector including the mesh bits etc as this is very hard to work backwards through particularly as it looks a bit different to the original

    Donald Waters - Replica

    E muito demorado, mas pelo guia da para fazer direitinho.

    Darlan Pereira da Silva - Replica

    Waste of two days, the new lightning connector was not recognized by the phone - it did not charge, but the speakers and mic worked fine. I then took it apart again and made sure everything was installed correctly.

    Only now, the touch screen no longer works.

    So I am back where I was was with a brick.

    H K - Replica

    Awesome guide - my iphone 7 is like new again. BUT reassembly is definitely not simply disassembly in reverse. I found it very necessary to first connect the new lightning connector assembly to the logic board (Step 49) and then place and attach the logic board (Step 50) with the new assembly underneath before sticking the lightning connector assembly into place. If you first adhere the lightning connector assembly, there is zero chance that the logic board connector will be in the right place for connection to the logic board, which is screwed into place and has no freedom of movement. Also reassembly is twice as hard and takes much longer than disassembly.

    rushbc - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso. Non dimenticare di applica re del nuovo adesivo sul display prima di reinstallare il display.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Prova le soluzioni base di alcuni problemi, o chiedi alla nostra comunità Risposte iPhone 7 per dell'aiuto.

Altre 273 persone hanno completato questa guida.

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Scott Havard

Membro da: 06/27/16

49.564 Reputazione

31 Guide realizzate

53 Commenti

The old ones were so easy! Why did Apple have to put the thing under the board!!!???

Christopher Crawford - Replica

Prob to discourage people from replacing it themselves instead of sending to apple

Elwen Omara -

I dunno. It was a pain, but surprisingly I got mine fixed. When I took it to the apple store they flat out told me that they wouldn’t fix it at all. I couldn’t even send it in to them. Something about no communication with the logic board and they refused to touch it. Thankfully the guides are detailed enough for goofs like me to be successful.

Ray Bieze -

Ho un problema dopo aver installato il nuovo connettore. Quando l’iphone e scarico, inserendo il cavo, appare sul display il simbolo batteria. Una volta acceso il cavo non viene più segnalato e la ricarica non continua. Cosa può essere?

Fabio - Replica

Salve ho lo stesso problema,qual è il problema?

lorenzo Serra -

Can I use this one for the Iphone 8 too ? I havent found one for the Iphone 8.

Manuel Gatti - Replica

@manulkamul Not sure if you mean the guide or the part, but in both cases the answer is, unfortunately, no—the 8 is a different animal.

Jeff Suovanen -

broke the logic board grounding bracket on step44.. any way to replace the whole thing or fix it? the end part what you have to lift came off. thanks!!

ietse venhuizen - Replica

I followed this guide and the microphone is still not working. Is it possible I have a bad part?

This is not my first technology fix, although first through here, and first iPhone 7.

Kristi Buysse - Replica

Great guide, thanks for posting. Successfully changed out my lightning connector/microphone assembly.

Separate issue, the replacement part charging and microphone functions work OK, but taptic engine no longer works. (cheap eBay purchase),

Small trade off to actually be able to talk on phone calls now.

Thanks again!

ohendo - Replica

Replaced it and now the charging port and mic don’t appear to be working. However, WiFi is working. Go figure. Any suggestions?

Noah Hayling - Replica

Same problem

Dirk Remie -

hi there! first of all i want to say thank you, i do all my repairs through you guys, it truly helps! however, i do have an issue. after replacing the port and re assembled, my phone says unable to activate cause it needs an update, i restored it through itunes and it said unable to update because the update information could not be obtained. Im now sure if this was a problem before i replaced the port or not cause the iphone was not working. any information would be great! thanks so much!

dannythomasbooking13 - Replica

I have an iPhone 7 and a 7 plus, does anyone know if it would be possible to take the connector from my 7 and put it into my 7 plus? I don’t want to start the process just to find out it doesn’t fit or something like it’s too small for the 7 plus?

Mekai - Replica

Hi Mekai,

The parts are slightly different, and the iPhone 7 connector will most likely be too small to fit in your 7 plus. Here are some product links (with pictures) for the iPhone 7 and iPhone 7 Plus assemblies.

Arthur Shi -

Hello Mr.Harvard,

I recently replaced a lightning assembly on a iphone 7 plus and although I didn't feel to have run into any incidents, when I finished assembling everything, my phone stayed on “searching" for a good while and than just stayed saying ,”no service" when in fact it had no connection issues before the lightning port was replaced. What can I try to do to resolve this?

Amador Sandoval - Replica

Hello Amador,

It sounds like an antenna issue. Make sure the antenna cables are properly connected in Step 26. Also check to make sure all connectors are seated.

Arthur Shi -

Arthur,

Thank you very much for the response. After more troubleshooting, I was able to determine that the replacement batch I received of lightning port replacements was the issue. Once I used a part from a different batch, the network issues were resolved. Thank you!

Amador Sandoval - Replica

hi, after performing the procedure when the phone is switched on, it remains stuck on the apple. I thought it was a problem of the replacement taken on ebay, so I reassembled the old connector but does the same thing! Help me

Michele Rossi - Replica

This is probs because there is a connector not connectie properly, I had the same problem. When I made sure I connector everything properly it worked again. There is a chance the connector on the logicboard is broken.

Dirk Remie -

I just replaced my charging port on a iPhone 7+ and it still won’t charge. Any suggestions?

Willy - Replica

Y screw tip will work just as well as an iPhone StandOut.

Jonathan - Replica

Your guide was thorough and got me through the difficult process of replacing an IPhone 7 charging port. I used labeled ziplock baggies for each step; attempting this complicated of a repair without labeled baggies would not have ended well. The whole effort took me about 4 hours, but the phone is back from the junk pile and works perfectly!

Jim Taksum - Replica

Thank you! I just completed this repair in about two hours following this guide. It takes patience, but you can do it. A lighted headband magnifier is a HUGE help when I work on these kinds of things. Thanks again to ifixit for the quality parts, tools, and guides.

bronyaur - Replica

Dopo aver rimontato tutto su un iPhone 7 tutto funziona perfettamente ma il telefono nn riesce ad agganciare la rete dal info generali riesce cmq a darmi tutte le info incluso IMEI e operatore della SIM a questo punto può essere il componente sostituito difettoso o devo pensare alla scheda madre guasta?

Angelo Grillo - Replica

for all who’ve done these repairs, we have to All Hate & Love Apple at the same time, Hate because they do this $@$* on purpose just to be dicks, and love because they keep us in business. Sometimes I think I’d rather not be in business just because it makes people have to pay for something that can be made to be an easy fix for people… This is ALL Steve Jobs Fault Visionary and Dick to boot oh and pirate not the good kind.

Work - Replica

Awesome guide as usual from ifixit .. Love you guys :)

Mostafa Mohammed - Replica

Ok… so this guide is incomplete based on the repair kit I purchased. There is a bag of seals that comes with the lightning connector assembly, and most are not show in the instructions.

I’m trying to figure out where they all go…. and I’ll try and update this as I do.

Dean Allan Land - Replica

@land08033 If you’re referring to these, it looks like they were added to the kit more recently, after the guide was published. None of them are necessary for the iPhone to function, but if installed correctly they may help maintain a higher level of dust and/or water resistance after the repair. Thanks for your comment!

Jeff Suovanen -

Great guide! This task is difficult but doable if you are careful and patient.

Hamza Taoufik Benchekroun - Replica

Thanks for the great write up, my phone is working again now!

Phil Surtees - Replica

Ciao, ho seguito la stessa procedura per sostituire il connettore di ricarica. Completato tutto, all’accensione l’Iphone si ferma al simbolo della mela e non va avanti. Perché? Avete esperienze in merito? Grazie

frimpa - Replica

Bonjour,

J’ai bien suivi le tutoriel et mon soucis est que quand le iPhone est en charge, je peux prendre une petite châtaigne électrique en touchant légère ment le iPhone.

D’ou pourrais venir ce problème de terre ?

Merci

Thibault Cadet - Replica

my connector seems too short to connect to connect to the reciever. as seen on step 45. Ive tried to slide the board but it doesnt seem to help.

cooldudefj - Replica

First iPhone repair. Excellent instructions! Took me about 2 hours and everything works great!

Jacob Seay - Replica

Phew, took a while to do this, and I am pretty sure I did it correctly, but the phone is now stuck on the apple screen… any ideas?

James Herndon - Replica

Hey James,

Try these  basic troubleshooting steps, and see if that would do it. If that doesn’t work out, please post a question on our iPhone 7 Answers forum.

Arthur Shi -

What does new antenna connect to, the on that comes from charger connector

beatricemorriso - Replica

It looks like it should connect to the antenna connectors here. I can’t tell for sure which one it is supposed to connect to—there are two antenna cables. It looks as though one cable has one silver grounding clip, and another has two. Whichever has one silver grounding clip should connect to the top connector (closer to the top of the phone).

Arthur Shi -

Hola, despues de remplazar la pieza, se encendía y estaba constantemente la manzana. Volví a rehacer todos los pasos y he conseguido que se encienda pero a los 2 minutos se reinicia solo constantemente. A que se debe? como lo puedo solucionar?

Gracias

redrired - Replica

very well done!

mjma - Replica

Perfect!! only had trouble finding the right place for all the new patches in the bottom, thanks!!

Joao Firmino - Replica

Followed the detailed instructions. Did the battery at the same time. Worked like a champ! Thx.

Bill Mancinelli - Replica

Hello, anyone knows which antena goes on top and which down. Does it matter? Tsnks

ferrert - Replica

It’s the first time I have used ifixit to repair a phone. The steps were very clear and my phone even worked when I was finished! I was repairing a faulty microphone.

Thank you very much.

Bill McDonald - Replica

when I reassemble the two antennas, should the speaker one be put in the hole above or in the hole below?

the_speed91 - Replica

Hi, I had my charging port replaced and the tech reprogrammed my phone (he said he needed to to make the phone work). I’m super stressed bc I lost photos from my dad’s funeral (two weeks ago) . Anyone know of a way to recover data if I didn’t have a chance to back it up? I’m really heartbroken right now.

Miss Qiiqii - Replica

I slightly misaligned the thing and it bent the connector vertical connector when I tried to re-attach. This is a real tricky one :/

Ryan Boyd - Replica

It took me 5 hrs to replace the lightning assembly. But… I took my time, carefully marking screw size and location(s). Where I ran into the greatest time consumption was rerouting the 2 antenna cables back onto the Logic board and getting the assembly to properly seat into its proper location. When I lined up the two white dots with the holes on the assembly , I could not get the port to properly seat,. When I tried the opposite direction-seating the port end of the assembly then laying it down to line up the holes with the white dots, it would not line up, it was like 2 mm too long.In order to get it to fit, I seated the port end, then lifted up the middle of the assembly and made like a “hill” , got the two holes to line up perfectly with the two white dots. then very gently pressed down on the middle to secure it to the case. The phone is now charging properly and could not be more satisfied with the results.

Jeffrey - Replica

Wow! Thank you Scott.

That was maximum difficulty. It actually took me 3 hours hahaha.

So much fun. It didn't solve my non-functioning mic problem unfortunately.

My 7 is running perfectly except that. And it stopped functioning after the iOS 15 update.

Best

iLex

Alex Campbell - Replica

Hi, I followed the guide as stated and also did a battery replacement, now the phone won't start up anymore. I tried connecting the original parts back and the old battery worked for a minute and than ran out of battery. No neither the old charging port nor the new one is charging neither of the two batteries. What can I check and are there any parts on the logicboard potentially broken?

Cheers Konrad

Konrad G - Replica

Did the repair now no power or charging is happening no damaged cables. Reseated everything aslo connected a new battery still nothing!?

5epmgllc - Replica

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