Introduzione
Segui questa guida per sostituire il gruppo connettore Lightning nel tuo iPhone 7 Plus. Questo può risolvere alcuni problemi di carica e di connettività.
Strumenti
-
-
Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.
-
Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone.
-
-
-
Scaldare il bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuterà ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che fissa il display rendendolo più facile da aprire.
How long should I use a hairdryer for?
I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.
gczarny -
Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering
Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,
I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.
-
-
-
Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.
Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?
Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??
The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.
-
-
-
Tira la ventosa con una pressione forte e costante per creare una piccola fessura tra il pannello anteriore e il case posteriore.
-
Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nella fessura.
-
Mentre continui a tirare la ventosa, fai ruotare lo spudger per allargare l'apertura tra lo schermo e il case posteriore.
Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).
I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?
Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .
My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.
My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.
iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.
This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.
Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.
-
-
-
Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger tra il pannello anteriore e il case posteriore nella parte inferiore sinistra dell'iPhone.
-
Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro del telefono iniziando dal basso e muovendoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e dello switch suoneria/silenzioso, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
-
-
-
Tira il gruppo display allontanandolo lievemente dal bordo superiore del telefono per sfilare le clip che lo fissano al case posteriore.
-
Apri l'iPhone inclinando il display e sollevandolo dal lato sinistro, come si farebbe con la quarta di copertina di un libro.
So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?
Probably the screen
-
-
-
Rimuovi le seguenti quattro viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa inferiore del cavo del display alla scheda logica:
-
Tre viti da 1,2 mm
-
Una vite da 2,6 mm
Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.
Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.
You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.
Mark -
The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?
I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?
@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!
A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!
STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.
i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.
-
-
-
Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del cavo del display.
I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.
Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol
Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.
-
-
-
Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.
I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.
After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.
-
-
-
Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per disconnettere i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.
What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?
Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….
When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.
My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol
have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…
ibisiki -
-
-
-
Rimuovi le tre viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore:
-
Una vite da 1,3 mm
-
Due viti da 1,0 mm
-
Rimuovi la staffa.
Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.
What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?
Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!
Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +
I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction
Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?
Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.
I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.
I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?
I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.
My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.
Would appreciate any advice!
-
-
-
Disconnetti il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!
-
-
-
Rimuovi il gruppo display.
When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.
Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!
-
-
-
Svita le tre vite Phillips che fissano il gruppo antenna:
-
Due viti da 1,3 mm
-
Una vite da 1,2 mm
It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.
Thanks Jack,
Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.
-
-
-
Rimuovi la vite Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissa il gruppo antenna al bordo superiore del case posteriore.
This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.
-
-
-
-
Inserisci uno strumento estrazione SIM o una graffetta nel piccolo foro nel vassoio della scheda SIM.
-
Premi con una certa forza per espellere il vassoio.
-
-
-
Usa uno strumento di apertura iFixit o un'unghia per disconnettere i due connettori dei cavi della fotocamera sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccoli.
-
-
-
Svita le due viti che fissano la staffa della fotocamera posteriore:
-
Una vite Phillips da 1,6 mm
-
Un distanziale a vite da 2,2 mm
Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?
More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?
Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.
iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.
I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!
I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!
There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?
-
-
-
Fai scorrere l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto il cavo flessibile dell'antenna per staccare l'adesivo che lo tiene in posizione.
-
-
-
Usa uno strumento per far leva a punta fine o delle pinzette per sollevare e disconnettere con cautela i connettori dei due cavi coassiali dalla scheda logica.
What purpose do these coax cables have?
Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!
Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.
thalley -
Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!
Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?
-
-
-
Svita le sette viti che fissano la scheda logica:
-
Una vite Phillips da 1,3 mm
-
Due distanziali a vite da 2,1 mm
-
Due distanziali a vite da 2,0 mm
-
Due distanziali a vite da 2,2 mm
-
In caso di emergenza, può bastare un piccolo cacciavite a taglio, ma è necessaria un'estrema cautela per evitare che scivolando possa danneggiare i componenti circostanti.
I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.
-
-
-
Rimuovi le seguenti due viti Phillips che fissano lo sfiato barometrico al case posteriore:
-
Una vite da 2,9 mm
-
Una vite da 2,1 mm
I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.
I agree, I don’t see any reason to remove the Taptic engine to remove the battery…It seems like more of a chance of screwing something else up…keep it simple…
If you’re replacing the battery, removing the Taptic Engine gives you a much better chance of removing the battery adhesive strips successfully. To keep them from snagging and breaking, you want to pull them from as low an angle as possible. With the Taptic Engine in the way, you have to pull them at almost 90 degrees, or risk snagging them on the Taptic Engine.
i can’t get the 2.1 screw 2 come out pls help anyone
I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.
Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.
i didn’t remove this and had major issues pulling the adhesive strips out. I literally couldn’t grasp them and then when i did, they broke! UGH! I was able to complete the installation but i must have done something wrong because my phone still isnt working. It just ‘flashes’ the apple logo. Won’t do anything else. Should have just taken it in for repair. Now i have to buy a new phone anyway.
-
-
-
Spingere delicatamente lo sfiato barometrico in direzione del Taptic Engine in modo da separare l'adesivo che lo fissa al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.
Adhesive may require a tiny amount of tugging of the barometric vent to free it…
-
-
-
Solleva e stacca il connettore del cavo piatto del Taptic Engine.
-
-
-
Rimuovi il Taptic Engine.
I’m just gonna add a comment here because I’m guessing a lot of other people who are repairing iphone 7s, like me, thought “lets also get a new battery!” This is the point at which you pull the three tape pieces holding the battery to the case out to remove the old battery. When you install a new battery, the battery connector has to be able to line up perfectly with the plug on the logic board so the battery has to go back in the exact right place. This is harder when you’ve already taken apart most of the phone. I ended up putting the battery back in after step 37. Still difficult to positiion it right. I think if I did it again, I might mark where the battery is on the case before I remove it…
-
-
-
Togli l'altoparlante.
One of the coaxial cables is attached to speaker. Was pulling out the speaker and this was tripping me up until I looked closer
Be careful when putting this part aside with the others as it has magnetics on it and can catch your screw messing them around. The struggle is real.
-
-
-
Rimuovi il contatto a molla sotto la vite che hai appena tolto.
Whats this part used for?
The inverted twitters just saved me from a headache when trying to put this one back in.
-
-
-
Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips da 1,2 mm che fissano la porta Lightning al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.
The right one on my phone won’t come out as if it’s rounded off but isn’t any ideas ?
I had that same problem with one of them. I ended up ripping that piece off and then spinning the entire thing around and that loosened it enough to where i could use another screw driver to spin it out the rest of the way.
-
-
-
Usa il bordo affilato di un attrezzo di apertura iFixit per staccare i due altoparlanti dall'adesivo che li mantiene in posizione.
-
-
-
Fai scorrere il tuo plettro attraverso tutta la larghezza dell'iPhone per separare le parti rimanenti del cavo flessibile dal case posteriore.
During re-assembly, ensure you add those four kinks in the ribbon sections that drop down the ridge in the rear casing (perhaps very carefully bend them in shape before sticking the new connector assembly to the casing, which I’ve not yet tried). Otherwise the new ribbon won’t sit directly over the white dots higher up the case, leading to misalignment when trying to connect other ribbon cables later on.
I thought I understood what Dan meant above. What he’s saying is really helpful, but I didn’t quite understand. During reassembly, I ended up trying to make the bends with a spooger once the replacement piece was already in the case and I poked a small hole through the piece, just missing an electrical component (it still worked). You can see the four bends in the picture here, (all horozontal to the bottom of the phone) but they might be easier to understand if you look at the old lightning connector piece you just took out. They’re four tiny kinks that are essential. If I did it again, I would make the kinks, then apply the ends of the “L” of this part and work toward the bend or the angle of the “L” in the corner. This was probably the hardest part of the repair…
-
-
-
Rimuovi il gruppo connettore Lightning.
-
Prendi un attrezzo di plastica per staccare tutto l'adesivo rimasto dal case posteriore.
-
Puoi pulire ogni residuo adesivo dalla superficie con alcol isopropilico (concentrazione pari o superiore al 90%) e un panno privo di pelucchi. Passa il panno in un'unica direzione, non avanti e indietro.
-
Assicurati di posizionare il gruppo connettore Lightning in modo che i due punti bianchi sul case posteriore dell'iPhone compaiano attraverso i due fori tondi del cavo flessibile del connettore Lightning. In caso contrario il cavo sarà disallineato e non sarà possibile riconnetterlo al suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.
For re-assembly, I first removed the adhesive below the red circles and aligned and adhered. Then, I moved my way down toward the bottom, removing the adhesive. Seemed to work out well.
This should be in the instructions. It is nearly impossible to align otherwise.
I think a picture of what to clean is needed as if there is anything left it may not fit
-
-
Excellent procedure to take it apart however the kit came with a ‘Mesh’ kit of gaskets and speaker vents with no actual instructions of what is what or when each should be installed. One item that was not in the ‘Mesh’ kit is the rectangular gasket for the lighting connector. Even though it come off the old assembly easily enough there is no adhesive to hold it in place when aligning the assembly into the case.
I think there should be a parts list with the Mesh kit to make identifying these tiny seal identifiable. That would be helpful.
Agree with WADE TURNER. This is really, really weak on the part of iFixit. You need clearer instructions for putting this thing back together—particularly for the adhesives with no identification whatsoever. Also, I hope you are reading this, because aligning the lightning connector assembly perfectly is CRITICAL. If it is not perfectly aligned, there is no way you will be able to connect it to the logic board later.
Confronta la nuova scheda madre con l'originale. Potresti dover trasferire alcune nuove parti sulla nuova o rimuovere alcuni supporti adesivi.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come programmato? prova con le soluzioni di base ai problemi, o rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte per ulteriore aiuto.
Confronta la nuova scheda madre con l'originale. Potresti dover trasferire alcune nuove parti sulla nuova o rimuovere alcuni supporti adesivi.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come programmato? prova con le soluzioni di base ai problemi, o rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte per ulteriore aiuto.
Annulla: non ho completato questa guida.
Altre 152 persone hanno completato questa guida.
Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:
100%
Questi traduttori ci stanno aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›
36 Commenti
NOTE TO ALL: When you put the port back in, LINE UP THE HOLES ON THE FRAME. If you don’t line up the holes perfectly on the cable (even if it’s off by a millimeter), the cable will NOT extend and plug into the logic board. It has to be perfect. You’re welcome :)
I have this issue but cant seem to get it to set properly? any ideas the po seems like it's in fine but wont connect to logic board
I feel like this is the most important piece of information on this entire guide. I drove myself mad disassembling and reassembling multiple iPhone 7/8 Plus devices with this exact issue.
Conrad -
So i did this and now my home button does not work. Any suggestions?
So far as I can tell, the only part of this procedure that affects the home button is when it’s disconnected from the board in step 14. I’d probably double-check those connectors to make sure they’re seated properly for a start. Check the sockets for dust/debris or pin damage. Inspect the cables for damage. While you’re troubleshooting, remember to always disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last. Good luck!
Hi there, I did the whole process successfully, phone starts up again but I charging does not work?? Tried different cables - didn’t work! Any suggestions? Thanks Thomas
Either you haven’t connected it back up properly, you may have bent pins or debris on the connections or you have a faulty charging flex cable.
Clems -
One of the parts isn’t genuine. Either your actual charging port or the cable you’re using.
Clems -
So I did this and now it shows ”this accessory may not be supported,” any suggestions?
I replaced my charging port and now the service is not coming to my phone. Does anyone know which antennae or cable I messed up when replacing it? Wifi works but not data.
I have had the same issue happen. I tried multiple charging ports for my customer and each one would lose cell service. The second I put the original port back in, service was working again. I called my tech support team to no solution. Has anyone else experienced this and able to get it resolved?
I took it slowly and was extra careful. everything worked out perfectly, except putting the adhesive back on, good thing I was also changing the battery so I had two. One thing you should note is which coaxial cables go where before you disconnect them. I was lucky that one was longer than the other and thats how I figured it out.
Dose this lightning connector part come with the microphones
It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.
Can you give a little more explanation here? It might make total sense once I’m inside, but I’m having trouble figuring out which three standoff screws you’re referring to. Looking at step 37, is it the two 2.2 mm screws (green) and the 2.0 mm screw (yellow) on the right side? And do you think I can do it this way without isopropyl alcohol? I’ve only got 70% on hand.
pphenow -
i did this but phone still dead
This is a very difficult and risky procedure. As an experienced electronics and tech hobbyist and professional (i’m a king nerd), after hours of methodical disassembly, part replacement and reassembly, I managed to not fix my phone and make it worst. Now my battery doesn’t recharge, my SIM card is not being recognized, and the phone is likely not water resistant anymore. A huge waste of time (and some money). I would not recommend anyone moving ahead with this procedure.
I cannot get my charging port to connect back to the main board i have tried setting the port a few times but still no joy?
So my brother changed mine and mixed up all the screws.. how in the world do I find out which screws go where?? Is there a new screw set I can buy that’s already in order
I have done lots of these on 7 and 7+………. can be done without removing the logic board, which saves a lot of steps.
Gently lift it and slide something underneath it to free it, and you can slide the old port flex out and the new one in……. just make sure its
in the right position and you can connect it to the board before setting the logic board back down.
made this repair. phone is charging now…thank god. everything else is working. but my rear face camera image is shaking( blurry than focused and repeating) front facing camera image on screen is perfect. Helppppppp
Did the repair step by step. reversed and put all back together. The phone works i all functions but, when making a call, the receiver of the call hears crackling and con only hear my voice if I talk close to the mic and loud/ continuously. I can hear them perfectly. I believe all is back together because all is working 95% just need microphone to work better? BTW I purchased part on Ebay but they stated it is a Iphone OEM replacement part. Any ideas would be appreciated, thx
im about to do this repair and now im worried after reading comments
Hello, i just changed the lightning connector on my Iphone, everything works great! except!!!! no once can hear me. Any suggestions on where I need to go and check? Thanks.
Finished the whole repair but my speaker seams to not be working any suggestions to fix this everything else works fine
Hello,
my iphone is 7plus having two issue one of them is battery is gone very fast so i think i have to changed it but i have another issue i would like your opinon once i make a call i can’t hear anything and the receiver same can’t hear anything so what i have to fixed it.
thank you
I did the replacement for the lightning connector, it works but now the touch screen doesn’t work. Any suggestions on why this is happening? I went back through the process twice and still the same result. I was careful not to damage the connectors to the screen but I can see if there’s damage or not. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
The reason I Changed the part is the microphone does not work right after I installed everything I only got the apple logo and nothing else , would not work I had to put back the old part back and it started but still have the microphone problem
An important note when attaching the new lightning port ribbon cable and coaxial cables to the logic board: the new part needs foam padding on top of the press fit cable attachments. You can either steal it from your old ones or put some padding there some other way, but if you don’t have it, it seems the cable bracket will short the connection and prevent the phone from charging. Some of the ifixit parts will not have this padding on there, so double check!
I followed the instructions to the letter, was very very very careful with handling the ribbon cables and keeping the screws labelled in separate pots so they went back in exactly the right places, changed the charging port and installed a brand new ifixit battery for good measure. Put it all back together and…nothing. Battery won’t charge, neither will the old one. Powers on with the old battery but thats it. Have checked all my work several times, re-attached the ribbon cables and still nothing. I now have to take it to one of those untrustworthy mobile phone repair shops you find all over the UK that I have been trying so hard to avoid. A massive waste of time and money.
My sister has been having charging issues with her 7 plus. Might have to try this sometime.
Well my first attempt was going so well and then trying to remove the sticky backing from the back of one of the mics and the whole mic came off at the ribbon. Arrrgh, So thought maybe it would work with one mic and carried on but now the lightening connector not aligned with logic board AARRGGH!.
Can someone tell me what the yellow circular tab is for on one of the microphones. I don’t see tho son the one removed. Thanks
Thanks this was really help for a junior engineer like me.
The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.
pargoff - Replica
The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.
Jeff Suovanen -
@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.
Ben Meinhart - Replica
Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!
Vanessa Pinter - Replica
How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?
adam - Replica
The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???
lkollar - Replica
Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone
bester - Replica
I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.
Charles Meitin - Replica