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Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8

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  1. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Rimuovi le viti pentalobe: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.

    • Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • L'apertura del display dell'iPhone comprometterà le sue tenute impermeabili. Vedi di avere pronte delle guarnizioni sostitutive prima di procedere oltre questo passo, altrimenti dovrai prestare attenzione ad evitare esposizioni a liquidi dopo aver rimontato il tuo iPhone senza sostituire le guarnizioni.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke - Replica

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica - Replica

    That’s a great idea thank you

    Mohamed Dekkiche -

    Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

    Bill Maher - Replica

    I already replaced my iPhone 8 battery with one from iFixit and honestly I wasn't impressed. It worked well for a few months, but then I started noticing the peak performance capability dropping significantly thereafter. I followed the initial charging instructions to a tee and only let it drop below 20% once a month. Normal everyday use for me... no intense apps like games, etc. I considered having Apple do it this time around, but for these older models they don't keep the batteries in-stock and you have to give them your phone for up to a week. So in the end, I opted to try another battery from iFixit instead. Hopefully this one will last longer.

    tripmusic - Replica

    How with the gigantic kit do I not have a 3 1/2 pentalobe driver the very first screwdriver I reach for and that I need is not in any of these kits. What’s up with that?

    Michael Stephens - Replica

  2. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Segna i tuoi plettri: passo 2, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Segna i tuoi plettri: passo 2, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Segna i tuoi plettri: passo 2, immagine 3 di 3
    • Se inserito troppo a fondo, un plettro per l'apertura può danneggiare il tuo dispositivo. Segui i passi di questa guida per segnare il tuo plettro ed prevenire eventuali danni.

    • Misura 3 mm dalla punta del plettro e segna questa distanza con un pennarello indelebile.

    • Puoi anche segnare gli altri angoli del plettro con altre misure.

    • Alternativamente, ferma con del nastro adesivo una moneta al plettro a 3mm dalla sua punta.

  3. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Istruzioni per l'Anti-Clamp: passo 3, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Istruzioni per l'Anti-Clamp: passo 3, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Istruzioni per l'Anti-Clamp: passo 3, immagine 3 di 3
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Compra
    • I prossimi tre passaggi ti spiegherano come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, uno strumento che abbiamo studiato per rendere la procedura di apertura più facile. Se non stai usando l'Anti-Clamp, salta questi tre passaggi e continua con un metodo alternativo.

    • Per istruzioni complete su come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, dai un'occhiata a questa guida.

    • Tira la manopola blu verso la cerniera per disattivare la modalità di apertura.

    • Posiziona la ventosa vicino al bordo inferiore dello schermo: una davanti e una dietro.

    • Spingi sulle ventose in modo tale che possano fare presa sull'area desiderata.

    • Se trovi che la superficie del tuo dispositivo sia così scivolosa da impedire all'Anti-Clamp di aderire, puoi usare del nastro adesivo per formare un superficie più aderente.

  4. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 4, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 4, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 4, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tira la manopola blu in avanti per bloccare i bracci.

    • Gira la manopola in senso orario di 360 gradi o fino a quando le ventose iniziano ad allungarsi.

    • Assicurati che le ventose siano allineate fra loro. Se dovessero iniziare a scivolare, allenta leggermente le ventose e riallinea i braccetti.

  5. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 5, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 5, immagine 2 di 2
    • Scalda un iOpener e infilalo tra i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.

    • Puoi usare anche un asciugacapelli, una pistola termica o una piastra calda, ma troppo calore può danneggiare lo schermo e la batteria interna, quindi procedi con attenzione.

    • Piega l'iOpener in modo che poggi sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • Attendi un minuto per dare all'adesivo una possibilità di staccarsi e formare una fessura di apertura.

    • Inserisci il plettro di apertura nella fessura.

    • Se l'Anti-Clamp non dovesse formare un'apertura sufficientemente ampia, applica più calore sull'area e ruota la manopola un quarto di giro.

    • Non girare più di un quarto di giro a volta, e aspetta un minuto tra un giro e l'altro. Lascia che l'Anti-clamp e il tempo facciano il lavoro per te.

    • Salta i tre passaggi successivi.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki - Replica

  6. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Riscalda lo schermo: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • I tre passaggi successivi mostrano come separare lo schermo utilizzando una ventosa.

    • Il riscaldamento del bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che blocca il display, semplificando l'apertura.

    • Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo per circa 90 secondi al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Replica

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Replica

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Replica

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Replica

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - Replica

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner - Replica

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc - Replica

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown - Replica

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron - Replica

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker - Replica

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic - Replica

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John - Replica

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble - Replica

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble - Replica

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble - Replica

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble - Replica

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C - Replica

  7. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Stacca lo schermo: passo 7, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Stacca lo schermo: passo 7, immagine 2 di 2
    • Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home per assicurare un adeguato sigillo tra la ventosa e il vetro frontale.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Replica

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Replica

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - Replica

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner - Replica

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri - Replica

  8. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tira la ventosa applicando una tensione forte e costante fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo dello schermo e la scocca.

    • Inserisci nella fessura un plettro di apertura.

    • L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione lo schermo è molto tenace. La creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, applica altro calore e muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo strumento di apertura.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Replica

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Replica

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Replica

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Replica

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Replica

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Replica

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - Replica

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - Replica

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - Replica

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - Replica

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo - Replica

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner - Replica

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd - Replica

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf - Replica

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony - Replica

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi - Replica

  9. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 9, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 9, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 9, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il tuo attrezzo lungo il bordo sinistro del telefono, spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.

    • Fermati vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro del display.

    • Non cercare di forzare il distacco del display dal case posteriore, perché è tenuto in posizione da clip di plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber - Replica

  10. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Informazioni sullo schermo: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Ci sono dei cavi flessibili delicati lungo il bordo destro del tuo iPhone. Non inserire il tuo plettro lì, dato che potresti danneggiare i cavi flessibili.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries - Replica

  11. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Inserisci nuovamente il tuo attrezzo nell'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPhone e fallo scorrere attorno all'angolo e lungo il lato destro del telefono per separare l'adesivo.

    • Non inserire il plettro per più di 3 mm: potresti danneggiare i cavi dello schermo.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper - Replica

  12. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 12, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 12, immagine 2 di 2
    • Tira dolcemente la ventosa per sollevare il lato inferiore del display.

    • Non sollevare il display più di 15° per evitare il rischio di stirare o strappare i cavi piatti di connessione del display.

    • Tira la linguetta per staccare la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.

  13. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 13, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 13, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 13, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura sotto il display attorno all'angolo superiore sinistro e lungo il bordo superiore del telefono per allentare l'adesivo rimasto.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - Replica

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner - Replica

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward - Replica

  14. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 14, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 14, immagine 2 di 2
    • Fai scorrere lievemente il gruppo display verso il basso (allontanandolo dal bordo superiore del telefono) per liberarlo dalle clip che lo collegano al case posteriore.

  15. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato sinistro, come per sollevare la copertina posteriore di un libro.

    • Non cercare di staccare del tutto il display, perché questo è ancora connesso alla scheda logica dell'iPhone da diversi fragili cavi piatti.

    • Appoggia il display contro qualche tipo di supporto per mantenerlo aperto mentre lavori sul telefono.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Replica

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Replica

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Replica

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Replica

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon - Replica

  16. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Scollega la batteria: passo 16, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Scollega la batteria: passo 16, immagine 2 di 2
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    Compra
    • Rimuovi quattro viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa del cavo inferiore del display alla scheda logica, delle seguenti lunghezze:

    • Due viti da 1,3 mm

    • Due viti da 2,8 mm

    • Nel corso dell'intera procedura, tieni traccia di ognuna delle tue viti in modo che, durante il rimontaggio, ciascuna di esse torni esattamente dove si trovava in precedenza. Mettere una vite al posto sbagliato può causare danni permanenti al telefono.

    • Rimuovi la staffa.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - Replica

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - Replica

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - Replica

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - Replica

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth - Replica

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D - Replica

    took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

    Karen Flowers - Replica

    It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

    Matti Haveri - Replica

    can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

    antonio - Replica

  17. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 17, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 17, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore della batteria sollevandolo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega lievemente da un lato, per distanziarlo dalla scheda logica, il cavo del connettore per evitare che questo possa fare contatto con lo zoccolo e quindi alimentare il telefono nel corso della tua riparazione.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - Replica

    I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

    Jeff -

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M - Replica

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

    If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

    The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

    Matti Haveri -

    This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

    Karen Flowers - Replica

    The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

    Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

    Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

    Dan Knight

    daniel - Replica

    That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

    But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

    Mangled Jargon -

    I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

    Robert Ast - Replica

    Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

    It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

    Matti Haveri - Replica

    The connectors have very little "click" to them when they do seat properly, and are covered with soft foam. Very challenging to attach them by feel, and having the screen propped up, blocks light from exactly where you need it.

    Steve Trotman - Replica

  18. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Scollega lo schermo e il digitizer: passo 18, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Scollega lo schermo e il digitizer: passo 18, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore inferiore del display dal suo alloggiamento.

    • Per ricollegare connettori a pressione come questo, premi su un lato finché senti il clic di bloccaggio, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere dal centro. Il connettore, se è disallineato anche di pochissimo, può piegarsi, danneggiandosi irreparabilmente.

    I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

    Ross Mckellar - Replica

    You need to buy a new screen

    conrad veldhouse -

    이렇게 친절하게 정성스럽게 분해도 올리신 분은 처음이네요 진정 프로/ 기타 나머지 잡것들은 대충 올려 돈이나 벌어보자는 업자num들/ 배터리 교체하는 유툽 영상보다...업자가 올린 ...배터리 교체는 따라했으나 그후 배터리 교체와는 전혀 상관 없는 액정 뒤판을 jo빤다고 설명도 없이 뜯어 그것까지 따라하다 액정이 나가버려 지금 무주공산에서 홀로 검색하다 이걸 보게됨

    평생놀아난다 - Replica

  19. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 19, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 19, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il secondo cavo inferiore del display.

  20. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 20, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 20, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi le tre viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che tengono in posizione la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.

    • Rimuovi la staffa.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - Replica

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - Replica

    These are the same size screws mentioned in Step 17.

    Douglas Walker -

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - Replica

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing - Replica

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer - Replica

  21. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 21, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 21, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore.

    Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

    Regal Carveiro - Replica

    It’s of a piece with the front camera.

    xint - Replica

  22. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Rimuovi il gruppo schermo: passo 22, immagine 1 di 1

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - Replica

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

    I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

    Matti Haveri -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D - Replica

    Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

    - use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

    - use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

    - Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

    Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

    I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

    Howard - Replica

    I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

    Hein Blöd -

    Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

    Lynn Thomas - Replica

    Struggling with the glued down display, then properly cleaning all the remains of the old seal, then positioning the new seal is 95% of this job. I purchased my phone refurbished and it clearly had already been serviced once, there were remnants of an old seal below the current seal due to improper cleaning and prep that made getting the phone open harder than it needed to be.

    Steve Trotman - Replica

    For my 2nd iPhone 8 battery replacement, I chose not to remove the display completely, or the Taptic Engine and I was successful. You have to pay extra attention and it is a bit trickier to keep the display from moving around too much, but I think minimizing the amount of screws and connections to take out, the better. You can easily lose the screws and you have to mind which ones go where, as there are so many different lengths. YMMV.

    tripmusic - Replica

    In retrospect, I also would have skipped ahead to step 33. I didn't, but my efforts at removing the adhesive tape were also unsuccessful so steps 23-33 were for naught. Ended up applying isopropyl alcohol, then warming the back, and finally just physically levered the battery out. Battery was slightly deformed and became slightly warm, so as soon as I got it out I just put it outside on a brick.

    But the replacement worked.

    Peter Benson - Replica

  23. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Scollega la fotocamera posteriore: passo 23, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Scollega la fotocamera posteriore: passo 23, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del cavo della fotocamera sollevandolo verso l'alto dalla sua presa.

  24. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Rimuovi la staffa della telecamera posteriore: passo 24, immagine 1 di 1
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    Compra
    • Svita le due viti che tengono in posizione la staffa della fotocamera posteriore:

    • Un distanziale a vite da 3,0 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips da 3,1 mm

    • Per rimuovere distanziali a vite l'ideale è usare un cacciavite per distanziali o una punta cacciavite specifica.

    • In caso di emergenza, può bastare un piccolo cacciavite a taglio, ma è necessaria un'estrema cautela per evitare che scivolando possa danneggiare i componenti circostanti.

    The screw descriptions are reversed, Red is the standoff, orange should be the 3.1mm Phillips; the orange circle is pointing to a standoff, but it’s not for the camera bracket, the empty hole above it should be circled in orange…red is wrong too.

    Maybe got mixed up because the bracket is already removed in this photo?

    NexGen Walpole - Replica

    Hi NexGen,

    Thanks for catching that! We somehow updated this step incorrectly from a previously correct state. It’s fixed now.

    Arthur Shi -

    for those without the special standoff-screw tool: for me, a Stanley knife tip worked well to undo the standoff screw (Distanzschraube), concentrating always just on one of the grooves & gently pushing it counter-clock-wise.

    Matej Maryska - Replica

    To put it back in I used both tips of the pointy tweezers held together and inserted them into the hole of the standoff screw. then tightened it again with the knife tip.

    Matej Maryska - Replica

  25. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8: passo 25, immagine 1 di 1
    • Togli la staffa della fotocamera posteriore.

  26. Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Rimuovi la fotocamera posteriore: passo 26, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione fotocamera posteriore iPhone 8, Rimuovi la fotocamera posteriore: passo 26, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi la fotocamera posteriore sollevandola verso l'alto dalla sua cavità.

    If you have trouble inserting the new camera module, try to connect the cable first and then put the module in, instead of first the module and then connecting. This was much easier for me.

    sebastian persch - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Vai alla nostra Comunità Risposte iPhone 8 per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.

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Arthur Shi

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8 Commenti

Does the rear camera assembly include the camera glass?

Jacob Mattrella - Replica

Hi Jacob,

The rear camera assembly is only the module itself. It does not include the glass mounted on the rear case.

Arthur Shi -

Is the iPhone still waterproof after the repair?

Thorn Deil - Replica

Many people say that it’s not…

Even if you replace the adhesives securing the display.

The same goes with the rubber protecting the hole where the cable enter, or the rubbers or what ever that It’s protecting the buttons to keep the water away …

With time this protective things gets old and fail to do it’s job, it’s normal.

But I Guess that it’s better than not replacing the adhesives at all…

David Novo - Replica

Does this camera module also works for the iPhone 7? Or should I only stick to the iPhone 7 one? That could be a nice upgrade if I already need to change it

Carlos gonzalez - Replica

I have a spare iPhone 7, could I use the camera from my iPhone 7 in my iPhone 8??

Thanks

Chris

creed2oo2 - Replica

Hi,

last week my back cover glass got shattered, since this time my main Camera won’t work.

i’ve tried the hard reset with the DFU Mode und checked already the contact of the camera.

Is it possible that the camera module is now broken too? I couldn’t find any damage at the camera…

Timxyz - Replica

I may have done it wrongly and the camera 📸 isn't working.

what can I do?

Josh Odeh - Replica

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