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Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire la fotocamera posteriore del tuo iPhone 6 Plus.

Panoramica Video

  1. Prima di smontare il tuo iPhone, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.
    • Prima di smontare il tuo iPhone, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.

    • Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe P2 da 3,6 mm vicino al connettore Lightning.

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - Replica

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - Replica

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ - Replica

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan - Replica

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faulstich - Replica

  2. I prossimi due passi illustrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo attrezzo per aprire in sicurezza l'iPhone 6  Plus e che raccomandiamo per chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione. Se non usi l'iSclack, salta i prossimi due passi. Se il distanziale in plastica è attaccato al centro dell'iSclack, rimuovilo adesso: non serve per i telefoni di grandi dimensioni come l'iPhone 6 Plus. Premi le maniglie dell'iSclack per aprire le ganasce a ventosa.
    • I prossimi due passi illustrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo attrezzo per aprire in sicurezza l'iPhone 6 Plus e che raccomandiamo per chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione. Se non usi l'iSclack, salta i prossimi due passi.

    • Se il distanziale in plastica è attaccato al centro dell'iSclack, rimuovilo adesso: non serve per i telefoni di grandi dimensioni come l'iPhone 6 Plus.

    • Premi le maniglie dell'iSclack per aprire le ganasce a ventosa.

    • Disponi la parte bassa del tuo iPhone tra le ventose.

    • Posiziona la ventosa superiore dell'iSclack contro il display, vicino al pulsante home.

    • Apri le maniglie per chiudere le ganasce dell'iSclack. Centra bene le ventose e premile con fermezza sui lati superiore e inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • Se il display o il vetro posteriore è seriamente danneggiato, coprilo con uno strato di nastro da pacchi trasparente affinché le ventose possano aderire. L'iSclack include due pezzi di nastro a tal fine.

  3. Mentre reggi saldamente il tuo iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per separare le ventose, tirando verso l'alto il pannello anteriore rispetto al case posteriore. L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone in misura sufficiente a separare le parti, ma non abbastanza da poter danneggiare i cavi del display.
    • Mentre reggi saldamente il tuo iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per separare le ventose, tirando verso l'alto il pannello anteriore rispetto al case posteriore.

    • L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone in misura sufficiente a separare le parti, ma non abbastanza da poter danneggiare i cavi del display.

    • Stacca le due ventose dal tuo iPhone.

    • Salta i prossimi tre passi e continua con il passo 7.

    It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

    Herbert - Replica

    I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

    Michael Wallace -

    I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

    johnoconna -

    Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

    Tracey -

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - Replica

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - Replica

  4. Se non hai un iSclack, usa una ventosa singola per sollevare il pannello frontale:
    • Se non hai un iSclack, usa una ventosa singola per sollevare il pannello frontale:

    • Premi una ventosa sullo schermo, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa sia ben premuta contro lo schermo per creare una forte tenuta.

    • Se il tuo display è ridotto in piccoli pezzi, per far aderire la ventosa puoi provare a ricoprirlo con uno strato di nastro da pacchi trasparente. In alternativa, si può usare del nastro adesivo molto tenace al posto della ventosa. Se ogni altra soluzione fallisce, puoi attaccare la ventosa allo schermo con della supercolla (cianoacrilica).

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - Replica

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - Replica

  5. Mentre tieni fermo l'iPhone con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
    • Mentre tieni fermo l'iPhone con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    • Prenditi tutto il tempo che ti serve e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display aderisce più fortemente rispetto alla maggior parte dei dispositivi.

    • Usando uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inizia a staccare con delicatezza il case posteriore, allontanandolo dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.

    • Ci sono diverse clip che tengono in posizione il gruppo del pannello frontale sul case posteriore, quindi potrebbe essere necessario usare insieme la ventosa e lo strumento di apertura per liberare il gruppo display anteriore.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - Replica

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - Replica

  6. Tira la sporgenza in plastica per allentare la ventosa. Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.
    • Tira la sporgenza in plastica per allentare la ventosa.

    • Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling - Replica

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

  7. Solleva dal case posteriore il lato del pulsante home del gruppo del pannello frontale, usando il lato superiore del telefono come una cerniera. Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e posalo contro qualcosa che lo tenga aperto mentre tu stai lavorando sul telefono. Aggiungi un elastico per tenere il display al suo posto mentre lavori. In questo modo si eviteranno sforzi imprevisti sui cavi del display.
    • Solleva dal case posteriore il lato del pulsante home del gruppo del pannello frontale, usando il lato superiore del telefono come una cerniera.

    • Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e posalo contro qualcosa che lo tenga aperto mentre tu stai lavorando sul telefono.

    • Aggiungi un elastico per tenere il display al suo posto mentre lavori. In questo modo si eviteranno sforzi imprevisti sui cavi del display.

    • Se non hai altro a portata di mano, una lattina ancora chiusa può essere una buona soluzione per questo scopo.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - Replica

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - Replica

  8. Ci sono diverse clip lungo il lato superiore del pannello frontale che formano una specie di cerniera, consentendo al gruppo del pannello anteriore di aprirsi come un libro. In fase di rimontaggio, allinea le clip appena sotto il bordo superiore del case posteriore. Quindi fai scorrere il pannello frontale verso l'alto finché il suo bordo superiore è a filo con quello del case posteriore.
    • Ci sono diverse clip lungo il lato superiore del pannello frontale che formano una specie di cerniera, consentendo al gruppo del pannello anteriore di aprirsi come un libro.

    • In fase di rimontaggio, allinea le clip appena sotto il bordo superiore del case posteriore. Quindi fai scorrere il pannello frontale verso l'alto finché il suo bordo superiore è a filo con quello del case posteriore.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - Replica

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  10. Rimuovi le seguenti viti a croce Phillips dalla staffa del connettore della batteria:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti a croce Phillips dalla staffa del connettore della batteria:

    • Una vite da 2,3 mm

    • Una vite da 3,1 mm

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - Replica

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - Replica

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - Replica

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - Replica

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - Replica

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner - Replica

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay - Replica

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

  11. Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa in metallo del connettore della batteria.
    • Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa in metallo del connettore della batteria.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - Replica

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - Replica

  12. Usa un'unghia pulita o il bordo di uno strumento di apertura per sollevare con delicatezza il connettore della batteria dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa un'unghia pulita o il bordo di uno strumento di apertura per sollevare con delicatezza il connettore della batteria dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica.

    • Cerca di far leva solo sul connettore e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Forzando sullo zoccolo potresti rompere l'intero connettore.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - Replica

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - Replica

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - Replica

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - Replica

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki - Replica

  13. Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti a croce Phillips che tengono in posizione la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti a croce Phillips che tengono in posizione la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 1,5 mm

    • Una vite da 2,9 mm

    • Non cercare di inserire viti più lunghe nelle filettature segnate in rosso. Se lo fai puoi danneggiare irreparabilmente la scheda logica.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - Replica

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - Replica

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - Replica

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - Replica

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - Replica

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - Replica

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - Replica

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - Replica

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - Replica

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - Replica

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - Replica

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - Replica

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson - Replica

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ - Replica

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt - Replica

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith - Replica

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson - Replica

  14. Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale.
    • Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale.

  15. Nei prossimi quattro passi, assicurati di far leva solo sui connettori del cavo e non sui loro zoccoli sulla scheda logica. Mentre continui a tenere aperto il pannello frontale, usa un'unghia o uno strumento di apertura per staccare il connettore della fotocamera anteriore e dell'altoparlante voce.
    • Nei prossimi quattro passi, assicurati di far leva solo sui connettori del cavo e non sui loro zoccoli sulla scheda logica.

    • Mentre continui a tenere aperto il pannello frontale, usa un'unghia o uno strumento di apertura per staccare il connettore della fotocamera anteriore e dell'altoparlante voce.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Replica

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - Replica

  16. Stacca il connettore del cavo del pulsante home. Stacca il connettore del cavo del pulsante home.
    • Stacca il connettore del cavo del pulsante home.

  17. Accertati che la batteria non sia collegata prima di connettere o disconnettere il cavo in questo passo. Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per staccare il connettore del cavo dati del display.
    • Accertati che la batteria non sia collegata prima di connettere o disconnettere il cavo in questo passo.

    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per staccare il connettore del cavo dati del display.

    • Nel rimontare il telefono, il cavo dati del display può far saltare via il proprio connettore. Se accade, nel riaccendere il telefono il display potrebbe avere linee bianche o non presentare alcuna immagine. In questo caso devi solo ricollegare il cavo e riavviare il telefono; per il riavvio l'ideale è staccare e riattaccare il connettore della batteria.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - Replica

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - Replica

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi - Replica

  18. Infine, stacca il connettore del cavo del digitizer. Quando ricolleghi il cavo del digitizer, non fare pressione sul centro del connettore. Premi prima da un'estremità e poi dall'altra. Premendo nel centro del connettore potresti piegare il componente e provocare danni al digitizer.
    • Infine, stacca il connettore del cavo del digitizer.

    • Quando ricolleghi il cavo del digitizer, non fare pressione sul centro del connettore. Premi prima da un'estremità e poi dall'altra. Premendo nel centro del connettore potresti piegare il componente e provocare danni al digitizer.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - Replica

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - Replica

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - Replica

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles - Replica

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - Replica

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - Replica

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - Replica

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - Replica

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - Replica

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc - Replica

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc - Replica

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings - Replica

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard - Replica

  19. Rimuovi il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
    • Rimuovi il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - Replica

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - Replica

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - Replica

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - Replica

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton - Replica

  20. Usa delle pinzette per staccare il pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre la vite nascosta che fissa sul case posteriore la staffa della fotocamera posteriore. Usa delle pinzette per staccare il pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre la vite nascosta che fissa sul case posteriore la staffa della fotocamera posteriore.
    • Usa delle pinzette per staccare il pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre la vite nascosta che fissa sul case posteriore la staffa della fotocamera posteriore.

  21. Rimuovi le seguenti viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa della fotocamera posteriore al case posteriore:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa della fotocamera posteriore al case posteriore:

    • Una vite da 1,7 mm

    • Una vite da 2,3 mm

    Careful to not unscrew the screw right below the 2.3 mm one circled in orange. I did it and some mystery part that was attached to the camera bracket broke off as it was attached to that screw and pretty fragile !

    nanomeko - Replica

    The part that fell off is the nfc cable for apple pay which is housed behind the camera

    nanomeko - Replica

  22. Solleva e rimuovi dalla fotocamera posteriore la staffa della fotocamera stessa.
    • Solleva e rimuovi dalla fotocamera posteriore la staffa della fotocamera stessa.

    There is a small ribbon cable under the right screw tab, it sticks to the bottom of the bracket. Be careful to separate them when lifting away the bracket and don't rip off the cable.

    Steve Berardi - Replica

  23. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della fotocamera posteriore dalla sua presa sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della fotocamera posteriore dalla sua presa sulla scheda logica.

  24. Solleva e rimuovi dall'iPhone con cautela la fotocamera posteriore.
    • Solleva e rimuovi dall'iPhone con cautela la fotocamera posteriore.

    Does anyone know if the bracket that the camera module rests in, is removable?

    I bought a new back housing, but I don't see anywhere if the bracket is removable. I don't even think it was removed by the ifixit team during the teardown...

    Will - Replica

    Note that the new camera may have a small plastic shield over the lens that should be removed before installation!

    Matthew Olwell - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Great how-to article. I was able to follow it and fix my son's camera within an hour. Patience is key -- take your time and stay organized and you'll get through this.

Josh Gormley - Replica

Great guide, replacement worked a treat!

eric - Replica

I liked How you explained step by step thanks

Reynaldo - Replica

After the replacement the LCD started to freezing.

auwadhablani - Replica

after my replacement with the ifixit camera, my camera twitches and will not focus :(

Brent Conklin - Replica

great, easy to follow directions... which i followed 3 times... d’oh! after the initial replacement, wondered why the picture was slightly out of focus... and it dawned on me there might be a protective film on the camera lens… BINGO. that problem solved… until i had NO picture after the second try. turns out i didn’t have the camera connector seated securely. third time was the charm.

craig rousseau - Replica

After change it my rear camera still stuck..and cannot use my flashlight..how????

bro fix - Replica

Mission accomplished after 90 min. No problems. Reading the extra comments by the users is mandatory.

Macrele - Replica

Did all these steps put new camera in and reassembled now blank screen when I use camera and flash not working so I reinstalled the old one and everything worked again but old cameras still not focused so I put new one in and same blank screen and I have a warning says flash to hot let cool down and either it or camera still not working also I reset phone still no go

2005harleyDarcyHrytsay - Replica

Wow what an amazingly EASY FIX. My picture was wavy and shaking before and now it works just like new. Thanks for the great guide and thanks to IFIXIT for supplying the part at such a great price.

Billy Ayoubi - Replica

This was amazingly simple and fixed my problem completely. Blurry camera that wouldn’t focus. The “isight” module was most likely gone in my old camera. Managed to fix in 20 minutes with zero issues on an iPhone 6 Plus - not a 6s Plus. If you have any questions at all or feel nervous about doing this upgrade, feel free to send me a message.

Wolfsuul - Replica

Great guide! Replaced my mother’s iPhone rear camera with new iFixit parts, and works perfect! Took 30 mins.

Stanislaw - Replica

Worked like a charm. Only took 20 min like the guide said.

Apple has issued a recall on iPhone 6+ back cameras and will replace them for free… unless you’ve already replaced your battery with one of the high quality iFixit ones. If you have they’ll waste an hour+ of your time in the apple store and then send you home to do it yourself, even though they admit the original part is faulty. Good times.

TheNickus - Replica

My rear camera was wavy and wouldn’t focus. It had double vision like a drunk person. This fixed it!

murat mckeown - Replica

Thank you for the guide. I had my wife’s camera, which the optical stabilizer was shaking like crazy, replaced in about 30 minutes.

bernardalm - Replica

You guys rock. I got the part, the tools, and had the camera swapped out and working in under 30 minutes! Thank you!

Mike Storck - Replica

Thank you for the wonderful guide. This was my first attempt at repairing something as small and intricate as an iPhone. I was able to complete the replacement of the rear camera without any issues. I now have a brand new camera in my iPhone 6 plus, and a phone that will last me for a while. This repair has inspired me to repair more things, and how I can help others repair their tech.

John Johnson - Replica

Hi,

I followed these instructions to the letter and everything went perfectly, but it has not solved the camera problem. The image, before I take the photograph, and then the resulting photograph itself are both very grainy, dark and blurry, as if a “light meter” is not working. Is there anything else I can do to fix the problem?

I suspect, although I am not sure, that the problem with the camera may have originated in a fall I had with the phone in hand: this cracked the front screen protector, but not the screen itself. There are a few missing pixels in the top left-hand corner of the screen to the right OSMC the rear-facing camera.

Nicholas Law - Replica

…to the right of the rear-facing camera.

Nicholas Law - Replica

Too easy. Lost 1 screw on the battery disconnect but got it together and working perfectly fine again. Got spare screws on order if I ever decide to disassemble the phone again. Glad I got my camera back in business! Feels rewarding to do it yourself!

Daniel Glodowski - Replica

It took me two tries to get it to work. I must not have had a good hookup on one of the cables the first time. Now all is working and thanks for a great write up and pictures.

Dave

David Reina - Replica

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