Introduzione
Segui questa guida per sostituire il cavo flex superiore che include la fotocamera anteriore, il microfono e altri sensori.
Cosa ti serve
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Se il vetro del tuo display è crepato, l'applicazione di nastro adesivo sullo schermo blocca ulteriori rotture e previene possibili infortuni.
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Disponi strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo trasparente sul display dell'iPhone fino a coprire l'intera superficie.
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Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare a smontarlo.
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Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe P2 da 3,8 mm da ciascun lato del connettore Lightning.
to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.
I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.
My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.
@codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:iSclack$24.99
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Chiudi l'impugnatura dell'iSclack per aprire le ganasce a ventosa.
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Disponi la parte inferiore dell'iPhone tra le ventose, contro il sensore di profondità in plastica.
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La ventosa superiore deve trovarsi appena sopra il pulsante home.
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Apri l'impugnatura per chiudere le ganasce dell'iSclack. Centra bene le ventose e premile con decisione sulle due facce dell'iPhone.
I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.
Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!
@mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.
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Impugnando saldamente l'iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per allontanare tra loro le ventose e tirare via il pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
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L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone giusto quanto basta a separare le parti senza danneggiare alcun cavo.
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Salta i prossimi tre passi e continua con il passo 8.
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Premi una ventosa sullo schermo, appena sopra il pulsante home.
cool i diden't now
very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.
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Mentre tieni giù il telefono con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello anteriore dal case posteriore.
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Con uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inizia a spingere delicatamente verso il basso il case posteriore, separandolo dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.
Be sure not to use metal pry tools as they may crack the plastic.
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Solleva il lato del pulsante home del gruppo display per accedere ai connettori vicino alla parte alta del telefono.
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Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e appoggialo a qualche cosa di adatto a tenerlo aperto mentre lavori sull'iPhone.
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Se non hai altro, puoi usare una lattina chiusa per tenere su il display.
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Aggiungi un elastico per tenere saldamente il display mentre lavori sul telefono. In questo modo eviterai di sforzare involontariamente i cavi del display.
I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!
What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?
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Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #000 da 1,6 mm che fissano il connettore metallico della batteria alla scheda logica.
These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!
I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?
Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.
It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.
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Usa uno spudger oppure un'unghia per staccare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.
Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.
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Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips #000 che fissano la staffa del cavo del gruppo pannello frontale alla scheda logica:
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Due viti da 1,3 mm
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Una vite da 1,7 mm
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Una vite da 3,25 mm
I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.
I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.
I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly
good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).
When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?
no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.
did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.
Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.
*warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.
Hi Ali,
You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.
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Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica oppure un'unghia per staccare il connettore della fotocamera anteriore e del cavo sensore.
You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.
In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.
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Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica oppure un'unghia per staccare il connettore del cavo dell'LCD.
I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!
This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.
vince -
Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.
There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.
Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:
Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.
Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.
Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.
Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.
Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?
Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...
duston -
When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.
The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.
If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.
iBroke -
I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?
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Rimuovi il gruppo pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
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Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #000 che fissano la staffa superiore del componente al gruppo display.
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Una vite da 4,2 mm
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Una vite da 2,3 mm
When putting the 4.2mm screw back in don't screw until it gets to tight to screw any more otherwise you will strip the screw and put a hole in the screen probably cracking it screw it in just enough so that the microphone is held in
I purchased the complete screen so I stopped at this point but with my surprise the part from Ifixit was slightly different from the original: just on the left of the square microphone there was an added contact for grounding which does not exist in the original screen. I was afraid this could avoid the screen to bw put in place but at the end I was successfull in any case so… don’t panic: if the screen from Ifixit has this small little finger for grounding it can be mounted with no problem!
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Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per spingere via dal gruppo display la staffa dell'altoparlante voce.
It's hooked at the top so slide the bracket straight to the right before lifting up.
What’s not mentioned is there is a little arm on that bracket - so as you should slide it to the right to remove it, you also have to slide it left as you put it back in. If you don’t, it doesn’t sit properly, and when you screw in the 4.2mm screw, the bracket will buckle inwards. That’s how you know it’s not inserted properly.
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La fotocamera anteriore e il cavo sensore sono incollati al gruppo display con un adesivo leggero.
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Anche se questo passo non è strettamente richiesto, diminuisce la possibilità di danneggiare il delicato gruppo del cavo.
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Usando l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger, stacca con delicatezza il cavo del contatto dell'altoparlante voce per separare questa parte della fotocamera e del cavo sensore dall'adesivo sottostante.
How do I fix proximity sensor problems? The screen I am replacing already has everything on it full assembly but the sensor doesn't work?
Double-check the connectors and make sure they are securely connected, and try again. If you think the new proximity sensor is faulty, you can try returning the display to where ever you bought it. If that's not an option, you could use this guide to remove the entire cable assembly (including the proximity sensor) from the old display and swap it over to the new one—assuming that the old cable assembly is still in good shape.
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Infila la punta di uno spudger sotto il microfono per sollevarlo dal suo vano nel gruppo display.
I feel that this guide is missing a step to show you what it looks like with the piece actually removed from the iPhone. I do not know what I'm actually to remove or not remove. @bobdownes says that I don't need to remove the big square, but, in the overview photo it shows that the square sticker is removed.
Shouldn't the overview picture be used in the guide? And a step to show how the cable is properly remounted? thx.
Hey Skip—it sounds like you may have been looking at a prerequisite rather than the complete guide. Click here and see if that answers your question. You can also check out the product page for a photo of the part all by itself. The big square sticker must be removed if you're replacing the camera/sensor assembly. Folks who are transplanting both the camera/sensor assembly and the attached LCD shield plate to a new display can leave the square sticker in place. Hope this helps!
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Stacca con cautela il gruppo cavo dalla piastra di schermatura LCD per rimuoverlo dal display.
If you changing the screen and your kit dont have face-camera. Then you DONT NEED to do this step(#20). Yuo must remove six screws securing the LCD shield plate. And move this part to the new kit. Sorrow that I dont have Photos
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Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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2 Commenti
Super Easy to complete, just make sure you use a jar lid or something to keep all the screws together.
I use a double sided sticky tape, stick to the table and stick down the screws onto it with a piece of paper to say where it came from.
When reassembling the camera will it just stick back on?