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Introduzione
Usa questa guida per staccare e sostituire uno schermo crepato o rotto del tuo iPhone 6 Plus. Ti mmostreremo come rimuovere il pulsante home, la fotocamera anteriore con il gruppo sensore, la piastra di schermatura dell'LCD e il cavo a nastro del pulsante home; tutti elementi che devono essere trasferiti nel tuo pannello sostitutivo. Se invece vuoi sostituire l'intero gruppo, segui questa guida molto più breve.
In ogni caso è importante trasferire il pulsante home originale sul nuovo display perché possa funzionare il Touch ID (rilevamento impronte digitali).
Cosa ti serve
Panoramica Video
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Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.
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Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe P2 da 3,6 mm vicino al connettore Lightning.
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Tira la maniglia blu indietro per sbloccare i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
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Fai scorrere i bracci oltre il bordo sinistro o destro del tuo iPhone.
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Posiziona le ventose vicino al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone, appena sopra il tasto Home, una di fronte e una sul retro.
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Premi le ventose insieme per farle aderire sull'area desiderata.
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Tira la manopola blu in avanti per bloccare i bracci.
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Gira la manopola in senso orario di 360° o finché le ventose cominciano ad allungarsi.
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Inserisci un plettro di apertura o un altro strumento sotto lo schermo quando l'Anti-Clamp crea una fessura abbastanza grande.
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Salta i prossimi tre passi.
Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen
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Usa una singola ventosa per sollevare il pannello frontale:
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Premi una ventosa sullo schermo, appena sopra al tasto Home.
Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.
English Please!
With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)
May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.
Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.
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Mentre tieni fermo l'iPhone con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
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Usando uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inizia a staccare con delicatezza il case posteriore, allontanandolo dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.
watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter
Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.
Disassembly:
The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.
Reassembly:
Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.
This was challenging. For me, the suction cup could only create a tiny bit of motion and at first, no actual gap at all. You might have to pull the suction cup away from the base a few times just to loosen things up a tiny bit. Eventually, I got my fingernail in, and then after a few minutes got the plastic tool in.
Also, use the plastic tool to gently pry along the sides of the phone once there’s light there. I was afraid of using too much leverage and breaking the screen as per the other comments, but starting at the bottom and then going around the sides slowly worked for me.
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Tira la sporgenza in plastica per allentare la ventosa.
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Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.
There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?
@lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)
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Solleva dal case posteriore il lato del pulsante home del gruppo del pannello frontale, usando il lato superiore del telefono come una cerniera.
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Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e posalo contro qualcosa che lo tenga aperto mentre tu stai lavorando sul telefono.
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Aggiungi un elastico per tenere il display al suo posto mentre lavori. In questo modo si eviteranno sforzi imprevisti sui cavi del display.
Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.
Español:
Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.
At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.
If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English
Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.
Perdón por mi mal inglés
your English isn’t the issue, it’s the proposed 60 degree opening space that doesn’t allow for the removal of the screws of the mounting plate where the connectors connect to the main pcb…
if can make a recommendation here; it helps if the can is full and not refrigerated, the weight helps in keeping the phone where it should stay without adding additional tension to the ‘flex’ ribbon cable. it’s called flex for a reason people, if your breaking these the phones already been overheated too much, the cables become brittle and should also be replaced. i replaced my battery without disconnecting the screen, at 90 degrees with a rubber band around an empty beer can. pierced the orig. battery and caused sparks. albeit, i wasn’t in a hurry and it took me a good 30+ minutes, removal of the battery and stickers is by far the most challenging, especially when NOT disconnecting the screen…
it’s not a race, take your time. move slowly but precisely with forethought and persistent force…
Werkt dit ook voor iPhone 7(plus)?
Werkt dit hetzelfde voor iPhone 7 (plus)?
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I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.
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Rimuovi le seguenti viti a croce Phillips dalla staffa del connettore della batteria:
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Una vite da 2,3 mm
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Una vite da 3,1 mm
for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000
I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.
stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove
The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.
Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.
Use a Phillips #000.
Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.
@asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.
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Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa in metallo del connettore della batteria.
Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.
That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.
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Usa un'unghia pulita o il bordo di uno strumento di apertura per sollevare con delicatezza il connettore della batteria dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica.
you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure
J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.
Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.
I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!
The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.
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Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti a croce Phillips che tengono in posizione la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale:
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Tre viti da 1,2 mm
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Una vite da 1,5 mm
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Una vite da 2,9 mm
Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.
I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.
I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.
Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.
Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.
That's what I was thinking.
I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.
which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out
I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.
I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.
I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.
Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…
what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?
@ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.
Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!
I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.
I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.
Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!
I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.
I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.
my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.
I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.
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Mentre continui a tenere aperto il pannello frontale, usa un'unghia o uno strumento di apertura per staccare il connettore della fotocamera anteriore e dell'altoparlante voce.
Why does the screen need to come off?
Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.
I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you
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Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per staccare il connettore del cavo dati del display.
The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!
how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.
After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?
The advice aims at avoiding battery fire. Just be careful.
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Infine, stacca il connettore del cavo del digitizer.
some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.
When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.
I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?
Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection
I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?
Henry A -
To ++mattmay002++ Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.
I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine
Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.
Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.
Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.
I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.
I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…
When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).
The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.
The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.
This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.
About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.
Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19
Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer
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Rimuovi il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)
How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?
The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)
I think you mean Step 8 :)
And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?
Oh I get it… they got him! :(
domarius -
When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.
Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.
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Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips che fissano la staffa dei componenti superiori:
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Una vite da 1,5 mm
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Due viti da 2,3 mm
Attempted this repair and my touch screen completely stopped working. Great walkthrough, but not sure what I did wrong in the repair to cause my issue.
Hi I've had exactly the same problem, what was your solution to this? would be very helpful!
Iona -
I had the same issue. My screen quit working and I could feel heat coming through my phone at the earpiece. I took the phone apart again and realized that the data cable for the screen had come loose. When I reattached the data cable and starting working steps 12-18 backwards to replace the shield, as noted in the very last step, I see that youhave to keep the screen at an inclinewhen replacing the shield over the cables. Otherwise, you stretch the display data cable and it can come loose. My screen works fine now and there is no heat coming from my earpiece.
Just completed this repair. My front facing microphone next to the ear piece had gone bad causing siri to not hear me and front facing videos had no sound. Definitely reccomend getting replacement parts from ifixit. Have had good experiences with all their parts unlike many other suppliers on the internet. Hate to admit it (don't want them to raise prices) but even though you pay a little bit more, you save frustration not getting DOA parts from cheaper sources. All of ifixit's parts are top quality and they even pack them in anti-static packaging. That says alot. Thanks ifixit!
Great instructions save the later steps. The ear speaker piece having to bend 180 degrees for the installation needs more clarification.
After this repair, my screen quit working and I could feel heat coming through my phone at the earpiece. I took the phone apart again and realized that the data cable for the screen had come loose. When I reattached the data cable and starting working steps 12-18 backwards to replace the shield, as noted in the very last step, I see that you have to keep the screen at an incline when replacing the shield over the cables. Otherwise, you stretch the display data cable and it can come loose. My screen works fine now and there is no heat coming from my earpiece.
The middle screw, listed as a 2.3mm was actually a 2.9mm in my iPhone 6 Plus
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere delicatamente il gruppo del cavo del sensore fuori dalla sua cavità nel gruppo display.
Use a hair dryer to pre-heat and soften the adhesive. Otherwise, damage to the flex cable can occur.
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Solleva dal gruppo display la parte del microfono dei cavi della fotocamera anteriore e del sensore.
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Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,8 mm che fissano sul pannello anteriore la staffa del pulsante home.
Yes it is absolutely replaceable. You need to remember it is a encrypted security feature, so you'll need the apple ID or password to regain control again if replaced. That's the whole point to secure your data.
Mike -
Yes, the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus home buttons are replaceable. I do several replacements for customers and they work just fine with one exception. The fingerprint reader around the home button does not work after replacing the home button
Hi Brent, I have a iPhone 6 plus with a shattered screen to repair and the home button is gone. You have said that you've been able to replace the home buttons successfully. I was wondering how you got past the error 53 problem when restoring it? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
Error 53 was resolved by Apple with an iOS update, so fortunately this is no longer an issue! As others have stated, it's perfectly possible to replace the home button, but you will lose fingerprint sensor functionality (the original sensor is paired to your iPhone's logic board at the factory, and only Apple can pair a new one).
Warning: The iphone 6 will brick after a restore if the home button is replaced. I agree with the other commenters that it is not a replaceable part because of this issue. If you try to restore the iPhone 6 after replacing the home button it will get stuck in recovery mode and give error 53 when a restore is attempted. I learned this the hard way! Please be careful and don't restore your phone if you do this repair.
What did you do after your phone got stuck in recovery mode ?
Lynn -
The little square rubber gaskets that cloak the mounting holes (little square nubs at the bottom of the picture in Step 19) for the Pentalobe Screws in Step 1 above had a tendency to fall off the screen. Further, if replacing the screen, these should also accompany the other items transferred to the new screen. This is just a small oversight I have seen from this repair guide, otherwise, smooth as silk.
The connector seemed a bit raised after re-assembling, I noticed after pressing the bracket down on in preparation for screwing in. I don’t know if it’s normal for it to have a slightly raised feeling but it was noticeable. Enough to make me wonder if it’s too much pressure on it once it’s screwed together.
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Rimuovi dal gruppo del pannello frontale la staffa del pulsante home.
buen día, cuando no me reconoce el touch id pero el boton si hace la función de botón ejemplo si me envía a home pero no reconoce el alcance fácil dos toques no reconoce el lector biométrico
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del pulsante home dal suo zoccolo sul cavo del pulsante home.
Will disabling and removing fingerprint passcode thru settings software wise prior to repair or starting the replacement, will this feature with a new replacement home button resolve the error 53 or the repairer need to use the original home button sensor with the correct fingerprint stored in the tiny small chip ? I have replaced a gsm iPhone 6S not plus screen making sure that not to tear off the sensor chip successfully repaired. -Joan
Hi Joan! If I am understanding your question correctly, disabling the fingerprint passcode prior to repair WILL NOT result in Touch ID working after the repair. You should look at Jeff Suovanen's comment at the bottom, as he explains the two ways to keep Touch ID working. In order to keep Touch ID working, you will need to find a logic board that is paired with the home button and replace both of those components.
When reassembling this display connector, you must fold the new connector down into and against the plastic base in order to line up the sockets. The original connector cable is adhered to the screen, the replacement sticks straight out.
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Incunea senza forzare la punta di uno spudger sotto il connettore del cavo del pulsante home.
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Usa, muovendolo con delicatezza, lo spudger per separare il cavo del connettore del pulsante home dall'adesivo che lo fissa al gruppo del pannello anteriore.
Es necesario calentar para que se desprenda de una forma comoda
heat thoroughly with a hair dryer. (away from your work area so you don't blast your parts all over the place!) pops right off.
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Scalda leggermente (con un iOpener, una pistola termica o un asciugacapelli) per ammorbidire l'adesivo che fissa la guarnizione del tasto home.
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Usando la punta del dito, spingi gentilmente, ma non rimuovere, il pulsante home verso il lato opposto. Usa una pressione forte costante per separare lentamente la guarnizione in gomma del pulsante home dal pannello anteriore.
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Usa con delicatezza la punta di uno spudger per finire di separare il pulsante home dal gruppo del pannello anteriore.
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Solleva e rimuovi dal gruppo del pannello anteriore il gruppo del pulsante home.
So this fix is hardware only? Do I need to disable the touch ID feature before removal and wWhat do I do next to get the touch ID feature to function?
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Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #00 da 1,7 mm ( una in alto e una nella parte inferiore che fissano sul pannello anteriore la piastra di schermatura dell'LCD.
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Rimuovi tre viti Phillips #00 da 1,3 mm su ciascun lato della piastra di schermatura dell'LCD (sei viti in tutto).
The required tools list specifies a phillips #000 screwdriver, but this section indicates #00 sized screws. Can some confirm for me the actual size of the screws? If they are #00, I see the screwdrivers for this size come in 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm versions. Which should I get?
If you’re using iFixit bits, either the #000 or the #00 will work fine here. Bit sizes are not standardized across manufacturers, so if you’re using tools from another vendor you’ll just have to test as you go.
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you can remove this by using the smallest flat screw driver bit you have. Using the supplied picture as reference start at the lower left hand corner and push gently between the connector ribbon and the case. The glue easily separated for me.
Do not peel off the ribbon cable!
You should take off small rectangular metal plate on which connector is. The glue is between the metal and plastic body.
Use a sharp needle at the lower left corner.
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Alza con delicatezza—ma non rimuoverla— la piastra di schermatura dell'LCD sollevando di qualche millimetro dal gruppo display l'estremità più vicina all'altoparlante da orecchio.
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Solleva con attenzione l'altra estremità (vicino al pulsante home) per staccare dal gruppo display il cavo del pulsante home.
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Rimuovi la piastra di schermatura dell'LCD dal gruppo display.
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Il gruppo display è libero.
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Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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11 Commenti
I know this is a old guide but i have a question. My iphone was screen broken and i change it with a original complete iphone screen, the home button works fine but the touch id dont work. I change the home button to the one that i have in the broken screen and still the touch id dont work. What can i do to fix the touch id?
Help! The home button cable attached to the metal front panel ripped a little as I was gently using my fingers to lift it off the screen. Now the home button doesn't work. Did I ruin the phone or is it possible to get a front panel?
I recently purchased this iFixit kit for my iPhone 6 Plus replacement of my screen that was cracked. I followed the instructions above, and my phone won't turn on. There is a part in to the right of the battery, just below the screen connections, that is really hot. After I noticed it wouldn't turn on, even after plugging it in, I took it back apart, and reseated the connections again. It still doesn't work. I will not purchase this kit again.
Bought this recently and I must say that I'm a little bit disappointed:
- the screen doesn't fit as before, you can feel a rough edge - I tried 4 times to put it correctly watching many video tutorials and I had the same result so I assume it's because it's not an original screen
- the colours are not the same anymore, looks like the saturation is on a lower setting - can't see the bright colours anymore
Overall I would rate this part 6 out of 10.
I’ve just completed this guide successfully using replacement parts I’ve ordered with ifixit in Europe. To my own surprise, everything is working: both cameras, home button, fingerprint scanner and id. Just great. I didn’t have the iSclack tool so I just used the suction cup. Also, I had to use a hair dryer instead of the iOpener tool, and it worked great even with the home button cable, just go gentle and give the heat some time to soften up the adhesive. Thanks for the great guide.
Is this for if it don’t light up? because mine won’t come on.
My iPhone was entered water and I took it to engineer and he said water has spoil the panel, he said I should order for new panel ,does it work if I change the panel.
You did not talk about removing eye lens casing. This is the most pain when trying to put back the bracket back.
you guys rock - thank you!
Pentalobe P2
Enea Del Lama - Replica
I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.
estebanfallasf - Replica
I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.
Margaret Patterson - Replica
Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it
GPZ - Replica
If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.
Andrew Dolan - Replica
A few hints:
* heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.
* also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...
Paul Faulstich - Replica
Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:
* stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.
* if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.
Friendly Advice -