Salta al contenuto principale


Segui questa guida per sostituire il connettore Lightning e il cavo della presa audio del tuo iPhone 5c.

Puoi anche far riferimento a questa guida per sostituire la guarnizione dell'altoparlante.

Panoramica Video

  1. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Applicazione nastro sul display: passo 1, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Applicazione nastro sul display: passo 1, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Applicazione nastro sul display: passo 1, immagine 3 di 3
    • Se il vetro del tuo display è crepato, l'applicazione di nastro adesivo sullo schermo blocca ulteriori rotture e previene possibili infortuni.

    • Disponi strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo trasparente sul display dell'iPhone fino a coprire l'intera superficie.

    • In questo modo eviterai la dispersione di schegge di vetro e assicurerai l'integrità strutturale dello schermo quando staccherai e solleverai il display.

    • Indossa occhiali di sicurezza per proteggere gli occhi da schegge di vetro che potrebbero saltar via durante la riparazione.

  2. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Rimozione viti pentalobe: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria dell'iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se viene forata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare a smontarlo.

    • Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe P2 da 3,8 mm da ciascun lato del connettore Lightning.

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones - Replica

    I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.

    Jim Thomas - Replica

    My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.

    Cody Craven - Replica

    @codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • I prossimi due passi mostrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo strumento per aprire l'iPhone 5c. Lo raccomandiamo a chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione su iPhone 5, 5s o 5c. Se non intendi usare l'iSclack , salta al passo 5.

    • Chiudi l'impugnatura dell'iSclack per aprire le ganasce a ventosa.

    • Disponi la parte inferiore dell'iPhone tra le ventose, contro il sensore di profondità in plastica.

    • La ventosa superiore deve trovarsi appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Apri l'impugnatura per chiudere le ganasce dell'iSclack. Centra bene le ventose e premile con decisione sulle due facce dell'iPhone.

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones - Replica

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason - Replica

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  3. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Fine procedura apertura con iSclack: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Fine procedura apertura con iSclack: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Impugnando saldamente l'iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per allontanare tra loro le ventose e tirare via il pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    • L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone giusto quanto basta a separare le parti senza danneggiare alcun cavo.

    • Stacca dall'iPhone le due ventose.

    • Salta i prossimi tre passi e continua con il passo 8.

  4. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Procedura di apertura manuale: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Premi una ventosa sullo schermo, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Accertati che la ventosa sia interamente posizionata sullo schermo e quindi garantisca la massima tenuta.

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon - Replica

  5. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Inizia sollevando il gruppo display: passo 6, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Inizia sollevando il gruppo display: passo 6, immagine 2 di 2
    • Assicurati che la ventosa sia ben attaccata al gruppo del pannello frontale.

    • Mentre tieni giù il telefono con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello anteriore dal case posteriore.

    • Fai con calma e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display è attaccato più saldamente rispetto alla maggior parte dei dispositivi.

    • Con uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inizia a spingere delicatamente verso il basso il case posteriore, separandolo dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.

    • Ci sono diverse clip che agganciano il gruppo del pannello frontale al case posteriore. Per liberare il gruppo display puoi usare una combinazione di ventosa e strumento di apertura in plastica.

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan - Replica

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones - Replica

    This part ended up being really easy for me. I applied the suction cup just as the picture shows and pulled slowly almost straight up; the screen came off very easily and I didn’t even need to use a plastic prying tool. Not sure why it worked so well but I’m glad!

    Renee - Replica

    I did it with a guitar pick and no suction cup.

    andrew - Replica

    Be sure not to use metal pry tools as they may crack the plastic.

    guardian10 - Replica

  6. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Tira la sporgenza in plastica per staccare la ventosa.

    • Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.

  7. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Apertura dell'iPhone: passo 8, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Apertura dell'iPhone: passo 8, immagine 2 di 2
    • Solleva il lato del pulsante home del gruppo display per accedere ai connettori vicino alla parte alta del telefono.

    • Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e appoggialo a qualche cosa di adatto a tenerlo aperto mentre lavori sull'iPhone.

    • Se non hai altro, puoi usare una lattina chiusa per tenere su il display.

    • Aggiungi un elastico per tenere saldamente il display mentre lavori sul telefono. In questo modo eviterai di sforzare involontariamente i cavi del display.

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs - Replica

    I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!

    Travis Henrick - Replica

    What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?

    sunnydsunset2014 - Replica

  8. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #000 da 1,6 mm che fissano il connettore metallico della batteria alla scheda logica.

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio - Replica

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen - Replica

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.

    Zachariah Sampson - Replica

  9. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa metallica del connettore della batteria.

  10. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Distacco connettore batteria: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa uno spudger oppure un'unghia per staccare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Stai molto attento a far leva solo sul connettore della batteria e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Premendo sullo zoccolo del connettore o sulla scheda logica, potresti distruggere lo zoccolo o danneggiare i componenti vicini della scheda.

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff - Replica

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill - Replica

  11. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips #000 che fissano la staffa del cavo del gruppo pannello frontale alla scheda logica:

    • Due viti da 1,3 mm

    • Una vite da 1,7 mm

    • Una vite da 3,25 mm

    • È particolarmente importante in questo passo tenere traccia delle viti in vista del riassemblaggio. Utilizzare le viti da 3,25 mm o quella da 1,7 mm nel foro inferiore destro provocherebbe un danno significativo alla scheda logica, impedendo al telefono di avviarsi regolarmente.

    • Stai attento a non forzare in fase di avvitamento. Se le viti non rientrano facilmente nella loro sede, potrebbero essere della misura sbagliata, quindi evita di forzarle.

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens - Replica

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel - Replica

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen - Replica

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez - Replica

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt - Replica

    Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.

    Christopher -

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus - Replica

    is it necessary to remove these screws in order to remove the battery?

    Ali Ahsan - Replica

    Hi Ali,

    You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.

    Arthur Shi -

  12. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo pannello frontale.

  13. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Distacco dei cavi gruppo display: passo 14, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Distacco dei cavi gruppo display: passo 14, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica oppure un'unghia per staccare il connettore della fotocamera anteriore e del cavo sensore.

    • Accertati di far leva soltanto sul connettore e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.

    In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.

    domarius - Replica

  14. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Prima di disconnettere o riconnettere i cavi in questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata.

    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica oppure un'unghia per staccare il connettore del cavo dell'LCD.

    • I connettori dell'LCD e del digitizer sono raggruppati insieme sullo stesso cavo, quindi il distacco del connettore LCD dovrebbe scollegare entrambi i connettori. Controlla bene che entrambi i cavi siano completamente staccati prima di rimuovere il display.

    • Nel rimontaggio, il cavo dell'LCD può saltare fuori dal suo connettore. Uno schermo bianco oppure delle linee bianche sul display possono essere causate da una cattiva connessione. In questo caso, riconnetti il cavo ed esegui un ciclo di accensione. Il miglior modo di eseguire un ciclo di accensione è di staccare e poi riconnettere la batteria.

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner - Replica

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet - Replica

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo - Replica

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?

    ewistey - Replica

  15. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Separazione del gruppo pannello frontale: passo 16, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi il gruppo pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    Very clear and percise.

    Jessica Fader - Replica

  16. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Batteria: passo 17, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Batteria: passo 17, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Batteria: passo 17, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere la punta di uno spudger tra la batteria e il jack cuffie per dispiegare la linguetta adesiva della batteria.

    I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.

    jacobstevens - Replica

    I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.

    ForumHermit -

    the adhesive tab is actually folded back upon itself. Gentle agitation on what appears to be the edge will in fact show you that it is flexible and can be "unfolded". When unfolded, it will allow you to see what they are talking about. GENTLE is the operative word !

    V. Jones - Replica

    I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.

    Benjamin Browning - Replica

    The adhesive tab has a small extension tab with a hole in the end closest to the ear phone jack. If you stick the tip of your spudger through it, you can use it to lift one end and get you started.

    John Pitts - Replica

  17. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 18, immagine 1 di 1
    • Stacca la linguetta adesiva della batteria dal telefono.

    It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.

    V. Jones - Replica

    Removing the charging port can make accessing the pull tabs easier.

    guardian10 - Replica

  18. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 19, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 19, immagine 2 di 2
    • Taglia la linguetta adesiva nera della batteria fra le due strisce adesive bianche in modo da separarle.

    Pulling upwards with a gentle tug on the now exposed black end of the adhesive tab will reveal a white film (look at the end of the tweezers). This white/black interface will have a small cutout already in the middle. Cut the adhesive tab using this as a midpoint guide.

    V. Jones - Replica

    Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.

    V. Jones - Replica

  19. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 20, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 20, immagine 2 di 2
    • Cerca di tenere le strisce piatte e non arricciate nel corso di questa procedura; le strisce piegate o ritorte si incolleranno su se stesse e si romperanno invece di venire fuori senza problemi.

    • Tira lentamente una delle linguette adesive della batteria allontanandolo dalla batteria stessa, verso la parte inferiore del telefono.

    • Tira con fermezza, mantenendo una tensione costante sulla striscia finché non scivola fuori dalla sua posizione tra la batteria e il case posteriore. Per risultati ottimali, tira la striscia a un angolo di 60° o inferiore.

    • Fai delicatamente passare la striscia attorno all'angolo e verso il lato della batteria. Stai attento a non farla interferire con altri componenti interni dell'iPhone.

    • La striscia si allungherà sino a varie volte la sua lunghezza originale. Continua a tirare e, se necessario, afferra la striscia più vicino alla batteria, finché la striscia esce completamente.

    I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

    lew - Replica

    When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?

    lynn - Replica

    Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

    mwtort - Replica

    My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

    So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

    jukkaharkonen - Replica

    This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.

    5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)

    Tanx ifixit. You are the best.

    Achim Graether - Replica

    I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery

    Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!

    lmusolino -

    @lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.

    John Mark Booc -

    This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.

    Peter Rousu - Replica

    Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure

    Shsjsjakkaka - Replica

    If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end

    Shsjsjakkaka - Replica

    the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.

    matt - Replica

    Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S

    Steve Hind - Replica

    Both my tabs broke immediately with the gentlest tug, as if they were dry and ready to come off. So I heated the back of the phone with warm heat from a hair dryer and was able to push a thin flexible plastic piece (thinner than a credit card but strong enough to be pushed in) under the corner of the battery near its connector. It would go in only so far, so I kept reheating and pushing it in more, moving up the long side of the battery. This works because you’re pushing toward / against the frame side so you can exert enough pressure. You don’t need to pry or lift the battery up (and you shouldn’t anyway because you may damage the components along the side of the battery and/or the battery itself) until it’s mostly loose.

    David K Slay - Replica

    This part was really difficult. After reading other comments, I applied heat right away (I balanced my phone and screen (rubber-banded like in step 8) on top of the iOpener - had to be very careful to keep it balanced). The case-side strip pulled around the battery corner and snapped; the logic board-side strip snapped immediately.

    I couldn’t get plastic cards or triangle wedges in far enough to get leverage; I carefully used two spudgers to pry up the bottom of the battery. From there I used tweezers to grab the edge of the logic-side adhesive. It took many tries to grab enough to continue to pull it, but once I had it, I got the whole strip out. Then my battery was loose enough to pry it up and off of the other strip with a plastic card.

    It’s definitely easier to get the battery out if you can get the logic board-side strip out. The strips came out easier when I stopped pulling and grabbed the base instead of pulling from the end. I tried to keep the angle as flat as possible but there’s not much room.

    Renee - Replica

    Both tabs broke. I tried heat multiple times and alcohol. Based on this step the rating on this repair should be changed to difficult. It is too easy to damage other cables. I’ve damaged some cable but I don’t know which one from the videos. I would say if you get to this point and it doesn’t come up easily after applying heat, go to a professional or risk further damage to other components. It is very difficult to use the card to pry without damaging something.

    Carolyn Amparan - Replica

    Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.

    Carolyn Amparan - Replica

    Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.

    Carolyn Amparan - Replica

    THE FLOSS is where it’s at. Heat slowly and work the floss through.

    eastkyprog - Replica

    When I (gently) start pulling strips, they both TORN.

    After try out (unsuccessfully) different recommendations, it works out the one with (pure) ALCOHOL.

    My way was in particularly like that: I take SPUDGER and wet it FLAT-HEAD with alcohol. And start to pry up battery from left side, near middle (there's some more space). Step by step, for a LITTLE bit, deeper and deeper, and EVERYTIME to wet spudger with alcohol. So all way down to bottom, and from the bottom (not from the motherboard on the right, and upper side at all). It takes couple (or more) dozens prying ups. Eventually battery came off, and leave adhesive at the case (removed with alcohol and spudger again).

    C O - Replica

  20. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 21, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 21, immagine 2 di 2
    • Ripeti per rimuovere la seconda striscia.

    I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.

    V. Jones - Replica

    At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.

    If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious. This shows photo of what I’m talking about.

    Jack Chang - Replica

    The adhesive tape snapped on me as well. Tried strong cotton to cheesewire it out, much like the dental floss, but didn’t work, kept snapping. Tried a little heat from hair drier, didn’t help! Had to prise the bottom end up enough to insert very thin metal scaper, approx. 1” wide and slowly force it up . Nerve wracking, but finally came out.

    Oops, just seen the next step was to help with this problem!

    I did not use the recommended tools, so it’s not the best advice.

    Alex Keen - Replica

  21. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 22, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi la batteria dall'iPhone.

    • Se una, o tutte due, delle strisce adesive si rompe e non riesci a rimuoverla con delle pinzette, non far leva per togliere la batteria dal telefono. Continua con i prossimi passi per rimuovere la tua batteria in tutta sicurezza.

    Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.

    V. Jones - Replica

  22. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Rimozione della batteria con adesivo altente: passo 23, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Rimozione della batteria con adesivo altente: passo 23, immagine 2 di 2
    • Applica qualche goccia di alcool isopropilico (>90%) sotto la batteria e lascialo scorrere attorno all'adesivo per ammorbidirlo. L'alcool isopropilico ad alta concentrazione agisce come solvente e asciuga senza lasciare segni, quindi non farà male al tuo iPhone.

    • Inserisci con cautela una scheda di plastica sotto la batteria dal lato più vicino alla scheda madre.

    • Non far leva contro la scheda madre, potresti danneggiare il telefono.

    • Evita di far leva vicino al bordo superiore della batteria, potresti danneggiare il cavo piatto superiore.

    • Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica dalla parte superiore della batteria verso il basso, premendo verso il bordo del case.

    • Se necessario, ripeti la stessa procedura dal lato opposto della batteria.

    A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(

    Daniel Boros - Replica

    The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you’ve pried the battery out near the bottom, you might want to reseat the speaker assembly after putting the new battery back in - it’s very easy to knock the speaker and lightning connectors loose when getting the battery out this way.

    Tom Reeve - Replica

    I destroyed the ribbon cable that runs down the side of the case toward the headphone jack (not mentioned in the instructions!) while trying to wedge the battery out with a credit card. Am I SOL or is there a fix?

    Peter Hill - Replica

    Sounds like you hit the upper component cable mentioned in red in the instructions. “Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.” You’ll likely need to replace the cable, or use on-screen accessibility button replacements. If you’d like to post photos to our Answers Forum, you may get more specific help for your situation. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Wow. Good luck removing your battery by this method. The adhesive on mine was impossible to remove, finally the battery foil peeled off, the battery was totally destroyed, and I had to scrape the adhesive off the phone bit by bit. Scary to abuse a lithium battery that way… Destroyed my ribbon cable, too, so now I can spend another $30 and a bunch more time… Wow. Not recommended; impossible to accomplish as described. Battery is not removable. Those adhesive strips are from !&&*. There is no reason to use that adhesive in that location, except to deliberately make the phone non-serviceable. Once the adhesive gets old, it just snaps and heat doesn’t help. Good luck.

    Torrence Matson - Replica

    Well… That was interesting. I dropped my phone this morning at some weird angle and the housing bent a little. I opened the phone only to reveal a torn battery. The adhesive strips were so old they were impossible to remove even after I removed the exploded battery. Just, wow, I never thought a caseless phone drop + a hot summer day would result in this. What a scary thing to see blue-green chemical flames inside a phone! I’ve never seen this happen with a Note 7 so I thought I’d never see a burning battery, but boy was I wrong!

    Ryan Scott - Replica

    dental floss works great but needs lots of pressure and heat

    Kristin Schweppenheiser - Replica

  23. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 24, immagine 1 di 1
    • Se la batteria è ancora incollata, segui le nostre istruzioni per riscaldare un iOpener o utilizza un asciugacapelli per riscaldare l'adesivo che fissa la tua batteria al case posteriore.

    • Disponi l'iOpener sul rovescio dell'iPhone a destra della fotocamera. Spianalo bene in modo che abbia un buon contatto con il retro dell'iPhone.

    • Lascialo sull'iPhone per circa 90 secondi prima di provare a rimuovere la batteria.

    • Se usi un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica, riscalda la parte posteriore dell'iPhone finché sia lievemente troppo caldo per essere toccato senza scottarsi.

    • Non riscaldare direttamente la batteria.

    • Surriscaldare l'iPhone può far prendere fuoco alla batteria.

    you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work

    Pritchett Harris - Replica

    A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.

    Dan Harris - Replica

    Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

    iScott - Replica

    I always have to do this because the adhesive strips never work because they can’t be pulled out at a flat enough angle. As you heat the back of the case in preparation for battery removal, also load some heat into some kind of smooth, flat metal tool to slide under one end of the battery as you pry it up. This makes for much less prying on the battery and much less chance of damaging it. It also makes for faster removal. The metal spatula tool provided in the fixit Pro Tech Toolkit, Pro Tech Toolkit, (an earlier version of which I use CONSTANTLY and is one of the most used toolkits I have) is perfect for this job.

    NMranchhand - Replica

  24. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 25, immagine 1 di 1
    • Solleva e rimuovi la batteria dall'iPhone.

    • Se c'è dell'alcool rimasto nel telefono, puliscilo attentamente o lascialo asciugare all'aria prima di installare la nuova batteria.

    • Non dovrebbe opporre resistenza. Se la batteria rimane incollata, riscalda l'iOpener e fai leva di nuovo.

    • Se la tua batteria sostitutiva è fornita in un astuccio di plastica, rimuovilo prima dell'installazione tirandolo dalla parte opposta del cavo a nastro.

    • Prima di incollare la nuova batteria, collega momentaneamente il suo connettore alla sua presa sulla scheda madre. Questo garantisce che la batteria sia allineata correttamente nel suo alloggio.

    • Incolla la batteria, scollegala e continua a rimontare il tuo dispositivo.

    • Se la tua nuova batteria non ha l'adesivo già installato, segui questa guida per rimpiazzare le strisce adesive.

    • Effettua un hard reset dopo il rimontaggio. Questo può prevenire diversi inconvenienti e semplificare la risoluzione dei problemi.

    My repair went well. However, the teeny screws were a nuisance putting the parts back. I have relatively large hands, so I used the tweezers. I finally got all of them in, save one. It popped out, and I thought I lost it. Luckily, it was stuck to my hand! The magnetic screwdriver helped, but if it was off a bit it would pull the screw out. Not bad for my first repair. Apple must use elves to assemble their products.

    John Thomson - Replica

  25. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Gruppo connettore Lightning: passo 26, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c, Gruppo connettore Lightning: passo 26, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per staccare il cavo del contatto a molla del pulsante home dall'involucro dell'altoparlante.

    Ensure you note the routing of the antenna cable. Reassembly will require that the antenna cable goes above the corner of the speaker enclosure.

    plisi - Replica

  26. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le viti seguenti che fissano l'involucro dell'altoparlante al case posteriore:

    • Due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 2,7 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 2,2 mm

    These screws didn't fit our brand new Phillips #000 at all, but they did fit a J #000 just fine.

    Daniel Beardsley - Replica

    The light is not Working if I can get new iPhone 5c if okay with you

    Yashira Cancel - Replica

  27. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 28, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 28, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare con cautela l'involucro dell'altoparlante dal pannello posteriore.

  28. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 29, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 29, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi l'involucro dell'altoparlante. Stai attento a non farlo interferire con il cavo dell'antenna.

    I’ve done this twice and still cannot understand why we are removing the speaker before removing the antenna on top of it. It gets in the way, and again when you reverse the instructions when you put the antenna on first and then the speaker… I’ve been swapping those steps instead.

    domarius - Replica

  29. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 30, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 30, immagine 2 di 2
    • Una staffa di contatto è avvolta attorno al foro più a destra dell'altoparlante. Questo piccolo componente può cadere improvvisamente, è meglio quindi rimuoverlo e notarne l'orientazione per il rimontaggio.

    • La parte piatta della clip di contatto deve appoggiarsi contro l'altoparlante, come illustrato.

    • La staffa di allineamento sull'estremità del gruppo display è incollata, ma potrebbe cadere se venisse manipolata in modo aggressivo.

    • L'estremità piegata deve essere di fronte a e in una linea con il bordo esteriore dell'altoparlante.

    Why remove this microscopic bracket? That was the hardest part of the whole job. Just keep it on, but alert people to its presence to ensure they don't let it slip off. But putting it back on was a pain.

    jacobstevens - Replica

    I concur with "jacobstevens". I just left well-enough alone. I made sure that the bracket was intact and that it remained so during the remainder of the procedure so it was ready to go when re-assembling. I also understand why this step exists... CYA!

    plisi - Replica

  30. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 31, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa uno strumento di apertura di plastica per scollegare il cavo piatto del connettore Lightning dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

  31. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 32, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 32, immagine 2 di 2
    • Il cavo del connettore Lightning aderisce leggermente a una piastra sulla scheda madre. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare con cautela il cavo.

    When reversing this and reseating the new component, you really need to give it a push to lock in. Just touching the connectors will make most of the phone work, but you need to have the connector locked in completely for the home button to activate

    EdTechMaker - Replica

  32. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 33, immagine 1 di 1
    • Scollega il connettore dell'antenna cellulare dalla base della scheda madre.

    This is not the wifi antenna. This is the primary cellular antenna.

    Tom Chai - Replica

    How the !&&* are you supposed to get this back on?! I just can't do it.

    leeprobert - Replica

    I usually hold the connector in place over the socket with a pair of tweezers, and then press it down with the flat end of a spudger.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  33. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 34, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le viti seguenti che fissano il connettore Lightning al case posteriore:

    • Due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 3,4 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 2,2 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 2,7 mm

    The lower left corner (yellow circled) screw has probably "screwed" us - for some reason it just won't start turning. Perhaps some glue under this one, needs heat? Anyone else faced this issue?

    Darrell Drake - Replica

    I did not when doing this job. The only part that I found had some adhesive was the cellular antenna cable. Perhaps some heat in some cases is necessary, but go easy on it.

    Timothy Transue -

    Follow Up on this one -- turns out I had loosened the screw already but it got kinda "soft-stuck" and just would not fall out of the hole (or turn any further). I almost stripped it totally but then poked around by trying steps 35-37 in advance, then I found I could turn the screw back inward (clockwise), then back out again, and kind of jimmy it out of the hole to complete the disassembly. I was VERY lucky that it was still usable for the re-assembly with the replacement part.

    Darrell Drake - Replica

  34. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 35, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 35, immagine 2 di 2
    • Stacca con cautela il gruppo connettore Lightning dalla cover posteriore.

  35. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 36, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 36, immagine 2 di 2
    • Forse ti servirà l'estremità di uno spudger per scollegare completamente il gruppo.

  36. Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 37, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione del gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 5c: passo 37, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi il gruppo connettore Lightning.

    • Una piccola guarnizione di gomma è attaccata al microfono. Assicurati di trasferirla sul nuovo gruppo.

    Pay close attention to the orientation of the microphone gasket.

    There is also a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack that should also be transferred.

    ypolashek - Replica

    Yeah, that darn headphone jack gasket got me. I didn't notice it at all until it fell off the old assembly.

    plisi - Replica

    The microphone gasket is not really a gasket like an O ring, it is a foam box into which you insert a little metal box on the end of the ribbon cable. Be sure you look at the side of the foam box that faces the bottom of the phone. The wider margin is towards the Lightening connector. The metal box goes up into the bottom of the foam box forming an “L” to the bottom of the phone. It is easier than it looks.

    Never saw any gasket for the headphone jack.

    Gladephone - Replica


Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Altre 144 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:

en it


Claire Miesch ci sta aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›


iFixit Membro di iFixit


148 Membri

15.457 Guide realizzate

22 Commenti

I fix it. Tomorrow I was got my packet from with lightning assembly and today my iPhone 5c can charge again.

And I would like to tell you several words about a process:

1. Thanks Ifixit for the tools - pentalope screwdriver and a magnet mat - it was great

2. All was simple with a step by step instructions on site.

3. IMPORTANT!!!! Unnecessary to remove a battery before the Lightning assembly replace - replacement possible without it)))

4. Don't forget to remove a rubber head from an old microphone - new hasn't such part.

5. Don't forget to lay an antenna cable properly when install a speaker back.

6. All the parts are very small - a magnifying glass required)))

7. I was made it for 1 hour )))

Yan - Replica

Tried to fix a faulty headphone jack now with the new part, headphones arent recognised at all...

Thanks for any advice

Joshua - Replica


Important! Steps 14, 15, and 19 through 28 are totally unnecessary. The SIM card is fine where it is, and the battery does not need to be removed to access everything. I would recommend disconnecting the battery connector while working, however.

Also, be careful with the little antenna where it connects to the dock connector flex. Mine broke off and had to be resoldered, but I bought the part on eBay.

Todd - Replica

Thanks for your feedback! We went ahead and removed the SIM card steps. It may be helpful to remove the battery in order to get enough clearance to separate the Lightning cable assembly from the rear case, but folks are certainly welcome to skip those steps if they are comfortable doing so. :)

Jeff Suovanen -

It is certainly not necessary to remove the battery in order to do this repair. I do not recommend following those steps.

kaniggit49 - Replica

In Step 37, Pay close attention to the orientation of the microphone gasket.

There is also a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack that should also be transferred.

ypolashek - Replica

Can i replace my iphone 5s motherboard with iphone 5c's motherboard?

Umer Zamad - Replica

The connectors are in different places, plus the 5C does not have a connector for Touch ID. I would say no.

Timothy Transue -

I ruined my battery, without necessity. But that's ok. Allways learning!

Renato Gaiarsa - Replica

Just followed the steps, took me about 2:30 hours (I had to do 2 attempts) but phone is back working 100%

It was difficult cause I have huge hands but this guide is quite good.

As other stated, I didn’t had to remove the battery.

Thanks ifixit

josecuadra - Replica

Why do we need a microphone gasket?

ashley hart - Replica

Clearly to channel the sound neatly from the outside to the inside of the case with no interference - muffling due to something being in the way, or vibrating of the case direct contact with the mic with nothing to absorb the shock. The mic is very tiny, when you’re working with parts this small, this stuff matters. The clarity of audio you’ve come to expect on phone calls doesn’t happen by magic.

domarius -

The hardest part - to connect back the antenna.. this challenge took the most of the time, everything else is pretty simple. No needs to take off the battery, but making next steps and keep the screen connected - just less comfortable. The guid is really helpful, thank you guys, but it would be even better to add more details and picture of the “small rubber gasket“ mentioned in last step 37, how take it off.. It took a while until I figured out what is it and how it’s mounted.

JackSparrowSL - Replica

I always use a bottle of wine and a rubber band to fix the upper part with the screen while working on the bottom part. Removing all connectors could result in connection problems so I avoid this by all means (ruined an iPhone 5s this way).

I also discovered that I didn’t needed to take off the screen protector. It fit that hard to the screen that the removal tool didn’t even cause the slightest bubbles.

Skyynet - Replica

Hey everyone,

after the replacement of the Jack and lightning connector I realized that only the right earpod is working, I checked with an other Headphone and the Earpods are working fine with the MacBook, so it has to be in the internals somewhere (and yes I made a fresh install of iOS)

Any suggestions to work this out?

loicluttmann - Replica

Great guide. Thanks.

I would like to comment that I was able to achieve this replacement without removing the battery. Some care is needed to avoid trapping the tab on the battery adhesive strip whilst refitting the components. I used the largest piece of adhesive protection film from the new part, to allow me to slide first the headphone jack socket, then the speaker assembly, past the battery adhesive tab without crumpling or trapping it. This removes the riskiest step (battery removal) and means that I didn’t need to buy new adhesive for the battery. There is a significant time saving by not needing to detach the screen assembly, which appears only to be necessary to allow the manipulation of the phone, necessary for battery removal.

ian - Replica

Removing the battery is 100% unnecessary for replacing the lightning port. Considering how difficult it can be to remove one of these batteries, I’m really scratching my head over why you would have included it in this tutorial. Seems its gonna cause people a lot of extra grief, and might prevent some capable people from undertaking this procedure on the basis of not having proper tools specifically for removing the battery.

Clayton Reeser - Replica

My best guess is that they wanted it to be safe, so you don’t puncture it while working with the other parts. But you can easily puncture it trying to take it out, so it really seems unnecessary to include it.

Andrew Coppola -

Phone was working but lighting connector was getting worse and worse as was battery. Decided to replace them. Apparently, I should have left well enough alone. Phone doesn’t turn on at all now. Not sure as to why. Retraced steps. Could new battery be bad? Broke tape trying to remove old one so I had to pry out old battery? Not sure if old oneis any good, now. Any way to check voltage on new one?

Donald Vargo - Replica

where did you buy your battery from?

Tristan Haugh -

The new headphone jack stopped working when I replaced the lightning assembly. What happened?

michael lichtenberger - Replica

I replaced the Lightning Connector Assembly in a second iPhone 5c. The first one went fine. On the second one the headphone jack only plays through the right side of the headphones. I tried connecting multiple headphones that I know work on both sides with the same result. Was there anything I may have done wrong in installing the new Lightning Connector Assembly that may have caused this or is it defective?

Vincent DelGuidice - Replica

Aggiungi Commento

Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 6

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 30

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 100

Tutti i Tempi: 80,549