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Introduzione

Sostituire il case superiore richiede la rimozione di quasi ogni componente del tuo MacBook Pro. Dovrai anche trasferire il trackpad originale sul tuo nuovo case superiore.

Panoramica Video

  1. Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti:
    • Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti:

    • Tre viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 14,4 mm

    • Tre viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 3,5 mm

    • Quattro viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 3,5 mm con spallamento

    • Quando sostituisci le viti più piccole, allineale perpendicolarmente alla lieve curvatura del case (non vanno giù verticalmente).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Replica

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Replica

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Replica

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Replica

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Replica

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Replica

    I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

    cam2000deluxe -

  2. Usa le dita per rimuovere il case inferiore dal corpo del MacBook, in prossimità della presa d'aria. Rimuovi il case inferiore.
    • Usa le dita per rimuovere il case inferiore dal corpo del MacBook, in prossimità della presa d'aria.

    • Rimuovi il case inferiore.

  3. Usa l'estremità di uno spudger per rimuovere il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Potrebbe essere utile fare leva verso l'alto su entrambi i lati del connettore, per agevolarne l'estrazione.
    • Usa l'estremità di uno spudger per rimuovere il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Potrebbe essere utile fare leva verso l'alto su entrambi i lati del connettore, per agevolarne l'estrazione.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Replica

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Replica

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Replica

  4. Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria per allontanarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, affinché non venga collegato accidentalmente durante le operazioni.
    • Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria per allontanarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, affinché non venga collegato accidentalmente durante le operazioni.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Replica

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Replica

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Replica

  5. Usa il bordo di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della ventola dalla sua presa sollevandolo dalla scheda madre. Può essere utile ruotare lo spudger da sotto il cavo della ventola per scollegare il connettore. La presa e il connettore della ventola sono mostrati nella seconda e terza immagine. Stai attento a non rompere la presa in plastica sulla scheda madre mentre fai leva con lo spudger per scollegare il connettore. La disposizione della scheda madre nella seconda immagine può essere leggermente diversa per il tuo dispositivo, ma la presa è identica.
    • Usa il bordo di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della ventola dalla sua presa sollevandolo dalla scheda madre.

    • Può essere utile ruotare lo spudger da sotto il cavo della ventola per scollegare il connettore.

    • La presa e il connettore della ventola sono mostrati nella seconda e terza immagine. Stai attento a non rompere la presa in plastica sulla scheda madre mentre fai leva con lo spudger per scollegare il connettore. La disposizione della scheda madre nella seconda immagine può essere leggermente diversa per il tuo dispositivo, ma la presa è identica.

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley - Replica

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr - Replica

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan - Replica

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

    airshack - Replica

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 - Replica

    I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

    paczor - Replica

    Thanks, I did that too,,

    a lot easier

    Ahmed Mahran -

    Yes, tricky. Insert the spudger just like in the photo. You won’t be able to dig it out out from any other side. Also, notice which side of the connector faces down into the socket: it is the side without the four shiny gold areas (again, just like in the photo).

    rmccord23 - Replica

  6. Svita le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola alla scheda madre:
    • Svita le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola alla scheda madre:

    • Una vite Torx T6 da 7,2 mm

    • Due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm

    These are T5 screws

    dbell316 - Replica

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

    I wasn’t able to open mine up. The heads looked like little triangles instead of hex torqx things. Is there a chart with the head shape of all the bits you can buy? I want to just get the one.

    Christopher Roode - Replica

    They might be tri point

    Daniele Carminati -

    they were T6 for me

    lamajr - Replica

  7. Solleva la ventola dal suo alloggio sulla scheda madre, stando attento a non impigliare il cavo.
    • Solleva la ventola dal suo alloggio sulla scheda madre, stando attento a non impigliare il cavo.

  8. Usa la punta di uno spudger per tirare il cavo dell'altoparlante/subwoofer destro fuori dalla sporgenza di bloccaggio in plastica integrata nella scocca superiore. Tira il cavo dello speaker destro verso l'alto per scollegarlo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per tirare il cavo dell'altoparlante/subwoofer destro fuori dalla sporgenza di bloccaggio in plastica integrata nella scocca superiore.

    • Tira il cavo dello speaker destro verso l'alto per scollegarlo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - Replica

    Excellent guide, I feel this bit could be clearer tho. As it is a socket like a fan connector.

    Mine had a foam pad on the top like the other lift-up connections and I’ve accidentally taken the socket off.

    So just to be aware if your mac has the foam pad on top of this connection.

    acupton86 - Replica

  9. Scollega il cavo della fotcamera dalla scheda madre.
    • Scollega il cavo della fotcamera dalla scheda madre.

    • Tira il cavo parallelamente alla scheda madre. Tirandolo verso l'alto potresti danneggiare la scheda madre o il cavo stesso.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - Replica

    thank you great suggestion

    Soham Thacker -

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - Replica

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - Replica

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE - Replica

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - Replica

    Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

    giovanni.billet - Replica

    Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

    moonsugar33 - Replica

    In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

    To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Guillaume Lamaison - Replica

    Die Metallverbindung besteht aus zwei Teilen. Der kabelferne Teil drückt den Stecker nach unten. Der kabelferne Teil ist ein festgelöteter Schuh. Mit Hilfe einer dünnen Präpariernadel konnte ich den kabelzugewandten, beweglichen Metall-Teil der Verbindung zum einen horizontal herausschieben, zum anderen habe ich gleichzeitig gezogen. Nicht zu viel Kraft beim Ziehen aufwenden.

    Mir hat geholfen, ein Makrofoto vom Stecker zu machen, um ihn zu verstehen.

    hpw - Replica

  10. Scollega i seguenti quattro cavi: Cavo AirPort/Bluetooth
    • Scollega i seguenti quattro cavi:

    • Cavo AirPort/Bluetooth

    • Cavo lettore CD

    • Cavo disco rigido

    • Cavo trackpad

    • Per scollegare questi cavi, usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva sui loro connettori e sollevarli dalle rispettive prese sulla scheda madre.

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - Replica

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - Replica

    It is advised to tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Replica

  11. Usa un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo della tastiera. Assicurati di sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata e non il connettore. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sfilare il cavo della tastiera dalla sua presa per scollegarlo.
    • Usa un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo della tastiera.

    • Assicurati di sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata e non il connettore.

    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sfilare il cavo della tastiera dalla sua presa per scollegarlo.

    • Questo cavo può essere difficile da reinfilare. Se stai avendo problemi, attacca temporaneamente un pezzo di nastro adesivo al cavo per aiutarti ad infilarlo nella presa.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - Replica

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - Replica

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    Thank you so much. Very clever idea that works like a charm!

    Todd Walls -

    Thank you so much! After 15 minutes of frustration, it inserted in less than 5 seconds.

    Todd Walls -

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Replica

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - Replica

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - Replica

    The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

    Jonathan Davis - Replica

    Thanks so much. This trick saved the day!!!!

    Rafael Giuliano - Replica

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Replica

    Der Sicherungsbügel kann leicht mit dem Fingernagel vom Mainboard um 90 Grad zu mir her geklappt werden. ACHTUNG: Genau lesen, filigrane Teile gehen leicht kaputt.

    hpw - Replica

  12. Se presente, rimuovi la piccola striscia di nastro nero che copre la presa del cavo della retroilluminazione della tastiera.
    • Se presente, rimuovi la piccola striscia di nastro nero che copre la presa del cavo della retroilluminazione della tastiera.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - Replica

    This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

    Bill Kirby - Replica

    I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

    moonsugar33 - Replica

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Replica

  13. Usa la punta di uno spudger o un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo della retroilluminazione della tastiera. Assicurati di agire sull'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sul connettore. Sfila il cavo della retroilluminazione della tastiera dalla sua presa.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger o un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo della retroilluminazione della tastiera.

    • Assicurati di agire sull'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sul connettore.

    • Sfila il cavo della retroilluminazione della tastiera dalla sua presa.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - Replica

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Replica

  14. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger scollegare il connettore del sensore di sospensione/indicatore della batteria sollevandolo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger scollegare il connettore del sensore di sospensione/indicatore della batteria sollevandolo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - Replica

    I forgot to place this tiny flex cable on top of the mainboard, and tried to recover it from under (lazy!) so I broke it.

    In general I would tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Replica

    Update: the computer works even without this feature. Of course the led battery indicator does not work, but it is not a big loss.

    dbovey - Replica

  15. Afferra la linguetta in plastica fissata alla staffa di bloccaggio del cavo dello schermo e tirala verso l'ingresso dell'alimentazione per ruotare la staffa e sbloccarla. Sfila il cavo dello schermo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre. Non tirare verso l'alto il cavo dello schermo, poiché la presa è molto delicata. Tiralo parallelamente al piano della scheda madre.
    • Afferra la linguetta in plastica fissata alla staffa di bloccaggio del cavo dello schermo e tirala verso l'ingresso dell'alimentazione per ruotare la staffa e sbloccarla.

    • Sfila il cavo dello schermo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Non tirare verso l'alto il cavo dello schermo, poiché la presa è molto delicata. Tiralo parallelamente al piano della scheda madre.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - Replica

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - Replica

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - Replica

    I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!

    Shannon Maguire -

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - Replica

    I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.

    Steven Weeks -

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - Replica

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - Replica

    When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?

    Wayne McCarthy - Replica

    Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon

    Shannon Maguire -

    My display is not working after I put everything back together, can hear the macbook chime. Tried shining light onto the display, see nothing. Tried loosening the screw slightly like someone suggested here, that does not help either. Tried cleaning the contacts of the LVDS cable, nothing. Any help appreciated.

    Don Seenu - Replica

  16. Svita le seguenti nove viti:
    • Svita le seguenti nove viti:

    • Cinque viti Torx T6 da 3,6 mm

    • Due viti Torx T6 da 4,3 mm

    • Due viti Torx T6 da 7,2 mm

    • In alcuni modelli potrebbero essere leggermente più corte:

    • Cinque viti Torx T6 da 3,0 mm

    • Due viti Torx T6 da 3,6 mm

    • Due viti Torx T6 da 6,7 mm

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - Replica

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    ForumHermit -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - Replica

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - Replica

    on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

    jeff chasalow - Replica

    Well on my mid 2012 MacBook Pro the screw heads are definitely not T6 but rather J000. Will place the removed screws on a paper drawing of logic board. Good tip ….

    dontrep7a3 - Replica

  17. Svita le seguenti viti a croce Phillips: Una vite da 8,6 mm
    • Svita le seguenti viti a croce Phillips:

    • Una vite da 8,6 mm

    • Una vite da 5,5 mm

    • Rimuovi il fermo del cavo dello schermo dalla scocca superiore.

    Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

    kc7gnm77 - Replica

  18. Usa la punta di uno spudger per rimuovere con delicatezza il microfono dall'adesivo che lo fissa alla scocca superiore.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per rimuovere con delicatezza il microfono dall'adesivo che lo fissa alla scocca superiore.

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - Replica

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - Replica

    I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

    You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

    Alex - Replica

    Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

    raph raph - Replica

    when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

    Avocet Peregrine - Replica

  19. Stando attenti ai diversi connettori vicino ai bordi, solleva la scheda madre dal bordo vicino al lettore CD.
    • Stando attenti ai diversi connettori vicino ai bordi, solleva la scheda madre dal bordo vicino al lettore CD.

    • Senza piegare la scheda, rimuovila dalla scocca superiore, stando attento al cavo flessibile della scheda di alimentazione che potrebbe impigliarsi nella scocca superiore.

    • Rimuovi la scheda madre.

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - Replica

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - Replica

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - Replica

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - Replica

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Replica

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Replica

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - Replica

    I removed the battery …. helps getting the logic board out.

    dontrep7a3 - Replica

  20. Svita le seguenti viti:
    • Svita le seguenti viti:

    • Una vite Tri-point da 5,6 mm

    • Una vite Tri-Point da 13 mm

    I remove the battery first before removing the logic board. Makes it easier to get the logic board out

    kc7gnm77 - Replica

  21. Rimuovi attentamente l'etichetta delle avvertenze dal case superiore tra la batteria e il lettore CD.
    • Rimuovi attentamente l'etichetta delle avvertenze dal case superiore tra la batteria e il lettore CD.

    • Non rimuovere l'etichetta dalla batteria.

  22. Usa l'aletta in plastica inclusa per aiutarti a rimuovere la batteria dal case superiore.
    • Usa l'aletta in plastica inclusa per aiutarti a rimuovere la batteria dal case superiore.

    once the battery is out, you may also need to remove the sleep sensor/battery indicator and move it to your new case if it didn’t come with them. mine didn’t, so i had to do so…it’s secured by three screws (i believe phillips) and some adhesive. the battery indicator button was loose on mine and just fell out when i removed the board, so be careful not to lose it.

    Matt - Replica

  23. Svita le due viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa del disco rigido al case superiore. Queste viti resteranno intrappolate nella staffa del disco rigido.
    • Svita le due viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa del disco rigido al case superiore.

    • Queste viti resteranno intrappolate nella staffa del disco rigido.

    • Rimuovi la staffa del disco rigido.

    • La staffa del disco rigido potrebbe essere saldamente appoggiata contro il case superiore.

  24. Usa l'aletta in plastica inclusa per sollevare il disco rigido dal case superiore. Tira il cavo del disco rigido lontano dal disco stesso. Rimuovi il disco rigido.
    • Usa l'aletta in plastica inclusa per sollevare il disco rigido dal case superiore.

    • Tira il cavo del disco rigido lontano dal disco stesso.

    • Rimuovi il disco rigido.

  25. Svita le seguenti quattro viti:
    • Svita le seguenti quattro viti:

    • Due viti a croce Phillips da 3 mm

    • Due viti a croce Phillips da 9,7 mm

  26. Separa attentamente il sottile cavo a nastro del sensore IR/LED di sospensione dall'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore.
    • Separa attentamente il sottile cavo a nastro del sensore IR/LED di sospensione dall'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore.

  27. Tira via la staffa anteriore del disco rigido che contiene il sensore IR/LED di sospensione dal bordo anteriore del case superiore. Rimuovi il cavo del disco rigido.
    • Tira via la staffa anteriore del disco rigido che contiene il sensore IR/LED di sospensione dal bordo anteriore del case superiore.

    • Rimuovi il cavo del disco rigido.

  28. Sposta attentamente il cavo a nastro della AirPort/Bluetooth mentre separi il cavo della fotocamera dall'adesivo che lo fissa al subwoofer e alla staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.
    • Sposta attentamente il cavo a nastro della AirPort/Bluetooth mentre separi il cavo della fotocamera dall'adesivo che lo fissa al subwoofer e alla staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.

    • Sfila il cavo della fotocamera da sotto il dito di bloccaggio sulla staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.

  29. Scollega i quattro connettori dell'antenna cerchiati in rosso nella prima immagine. Per farlo, usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare i connettori dalle prese sulla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth. Sfila ogni cavo dal rispettivo canale nella staffa AirPort/Bluetootth.
    • Scollega i quattro connettori dell'antenna cerchiati in rosso nella prima immagine.

    • Per farlo, usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare i connettori dalle prese sulla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.

    • Sfila ogni cavo dal rispettivo canale nella staffa AirPort/Bluetootth.

    I did not even disconnect these cables, because they are easily damaged when reattaching. I just left them in their sockets and folded the whole assembly back and out of my way, when I needed to take out and replace the keyboard.

    Jurgen - Replica

    they are ”antenna connectors” going to the “AirPort/Bluetooth” assembly so I am guessing they are needed for the bluetooth. I removed them with a pair of small flat screwdrivers to gently walk them out of the sockets - which are quite deep.

    jeremyyoung - Replica

    One cable snapped on reassembly. It snapped from inside the copper band where the wires are bare of coating. This is figured made all three of these wires interface and share whatever they are transmitting. So, I crimped the broken wire’s ends and shoved it back into the sleeve. I have tested my wireless features for two days and everything works like a charm.

    Lee Hughart - Replica

  30. Svita le seguenti cinque viti:
    • Svita le seguenti cinque viti:

    • Due viti a croce Phillips da 10,3 mm

    • Due viti a croce Phillips da 3,1 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips da 5 mm

    The second picture shows exactly how things are assembled, so looking at the picture tells you if you done any mistake or not. The first picture is very good for an overview the second to show the details.

    MacWiniac - Replica

    While reassembling make sure the small metal ring attached to the longest antenna cable goes under the left 'red' screw.

    haabee - Replica

  31. Tira il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth e il subwoofer verso l'alto vicino al centro del lato del lettore CD finché non si separano l'uno dall'altro. Rimuovi il gruppo della scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.
    • Tira il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth e il subwoofer verso l'alto vicino al centro del lato del lettore CD finché non si separano l'uno dall'altro.

    • Rimuovi il gruppo della scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.

    When reassembling be sure the camera cable is tucked into the case at this point. Otherwise it will end up on top of the cable bundle and be too close to the bottom case lip.

    Ron - Replica

  32. Svita le tre viti a croce Phillips da 2,7 mm che fissano il lettore CD al case superiore.
    • Svita le tre viti a croce Phillips da 2,7 mm che fissano il lettore CD al case superiore.

  33. Solleva il lettore CD dal bordo più vicino allo schermo e rimuovilo dal case superiore.
    • Solleva il lettore CD dal bordo più vicino allo schermo e rimuovilo dal case superiore.

  34. Separa il cavo dello speaker destro dal case superiore.
    • Separa il cavo dello speaker destro dal case superiore.

    Need to put the vertical piece just above the demonstrator's hand into the new case, or else the CD/DVD drive, logic board, and fan are missing screw holds.

    Carroll Cadden - Replica

    This is where I stopped following the guide because I was only replacing the keyboard. (There are sooo many screws holding the keyboard down. It took a long time.)

    Reed Deemer - Replica

  35. Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica, o un altro strumento sottile per fare leva, per sollevare lo speaker destro dall'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore. Inizia a fare leva dal bordo dello speaker destro più vicino allo schermo. Iniziando dall'altro lato potresti danneggiare una delle antenne.
    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica, o un altro strumento sottile per fare leva, per sollevare lo speaker destro dall'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore.

    • Inizia a fare leva dal bordo dello speaker destro più vicino allo schermo. Iniziando dall'altro lato potresti danneggiare una delle antenne.

    • Fai leva sul bordo dello speaker destro finché non si separa dal case superiore.

    tip: not only start at the end closest to the display, but start as close to the optical drive slot as you can get. i had to get way back there in order to get underneath the speaker to pry it loose.

    Matt - Replica

    This was perhaps the hardest step. I could not get under the recommended side and had to start at the other end. The speaker was adhered so tight to the keyboard it was impossible to pry up on the right side. But no damage was done.

    Lee Hughart - Replica

  36. Tira via lo speaker destro da sotto l'apertura del lettore CD.
    • Tira via lo speaker destro da sotto l'apertura del lettore CD.

    What is that plate with the antenna attached? the one that sits under the speaker? My new upper case doesn't have that on there

    stdonato - Replica

    Fourth- antenna wasn’t on the replacement case. I peeled the antenna off the old case (starting opposite the cable) and removed the disc screen, put both in the new case. The new case doesn’t have a hole for the screw securing the top of the antenna but the adhesive should hold it fine. I’m not sure if that screw acts as a grounding point, because there’s a bracket further up that antenna that also provides a ground from the shielding.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Replica

    i also had to remove the plate with the antenna underneath to transfer it to the new case. there is an additional screw you need to remove in order to do this (you can see it just to the left of the index finger on the hand in the picture), and it was also attached by adhesive. i removed the screw and then used the spudger to get under the plate and loosen it from the adhesive.

    unlike the previous commenter, there was a screw hole on my new case to re-attach the antenna plate (in addition to the adhesive).

    Matt - Replica

    Does anyone actually know what it is for though? Is it necessary?

    Maria ayers - Replica

    It’s either for the Bluetooth or AirPort or possibly WiFi. I don’t know which one. Given the possible applications it’s probably best to move it to the replacement case. Just be careful not to bend it when removing since I don’t know how delicate the internal construction is. Also, when installing it in the new case, make sure it’s stuck down well, maybe even add some new double side tape. Where it’s positioned, if it pops up it could block access to the optical drive.

    Raymond Ives -

    As indicated, carefully remove the metal plate where the antenna is soldered. The plate is glued to the unibody topcase. It came loose when forcing a long strong tool like a flathead screwdriver underneath (spudger too weak) and following the metal plate from the hinge down along the superdrive opening. Careful not to damage the solders. The metal plate is so thin it could tear, but it comes loose quite evenly. Careful here!

    fbr - Replica

  37. Svita due delle tre viti Torx T8 da 6 mm che fissano il lato destro dello schermo al case superiore.
    • Svita due delle tre viti Torx T8 da 6 mm che fissano il lato destro dello schermo al case superiore.

    • Abbiamo intenzionalmente lasciato una vite a fissare lo schermo al case superiore per semplificare i passaggi successivi.

  38. Rimuovi il piccolo pezzo di schiuma adesiva che copre le viti della cerniera sinistra dello schermo.
    • Rimuovi il piccolo pezzo di schiuma adesiva che copre le viti della cerniera sinistra dello schermo.

  39. Svita due delle tre viti Torx T8 da 6 mm che fissano il lato sinistro dello schermo al case superiore.
    • Svita due delle tre viti Torx T8 da 6 mm che fissano il lato sinistro dello schermo al case superiore.

    • Abbiamo intenzionalmente lasciato una vite a fissare lo schermo al case superiore per semplificare i passaggi successivi.

  40. Apri il tuo MacBook Pro in modo che lo schermo sia perpendicolare al case superiore.
    • Apri il tuo MacBook Pro in modo che lo schermo sia perpendicolare al case superiore.

    • Appoggia il tuo MacBook Pro aperto come mostrato.

    • Mentre tieni insieme lo schermo e il case superiore con la mano sinistra, svita la vite Torx T8 restante dalla staffa inferiore dello schermo.

  41. Assicurati di tenere insieme lo schermo e il case superiore con la mano sinistra. Non farlo potrebbe far cadere lo schermo/case superiore, potenzialmente danneggiando ogni componente.
    • Assicurati di tenere insieme lo schermo e il case superiore con la mano sinistra. Non farlo potrebbe far cadere lo schermo/case superiore, potenzialmente danneggiando ogni componente.

    • Svita l'ultima vite Torx T8 rimasta che fissa lo schermo al case superiore.

    These are the remaining T6 screws

    Benjamin Teasel - Replica

  42. Prendi il case superiore con la mano destra e ruotalo leggermente verso il bordo superiore dello schermo in modo che la staffa superiore dello schermo superi il bordo del case superiore. Ruota leggermente lo schermo lontano dal case superiore. Solleva lo schermo ed allontanalo dal case superiore, stando attento ad ogni staffa o cavo che potrebbe impigliarsi.
    • Prendi il case superiore con la mano destra e ruotalo leggermente verso il bordo superiore dello schermo in modo che la staffa superiore dello schermo superi il bordo del case superiore.

    • Ruota leggermente lo schermo lontano dal case superiore.

    • Solleva lo schermo ed allontanalo dal case superiore, stando attento ad ogni staffa o cavo che potrebbe impigliarsi.

    • Resta solo il case superiore.

  43. Svita le quattro vivi a croce Phillips da 1,2 mm evidenziate in rosso.
    • Svita le quattro vivi a croce Phillips da 1,2 mm evidenziate in rosso.

  44. Stacca attentamente il bordo del trackpad più vicino alla tastiera dal suo alloggio nel case superiore spingendolo via dalle staffe attaccate al case superiore.
    • Stacca attentamente il bordo del trackpad più vicino alla tastiera dal suo alloggio nel case superiore spingendolo via dalle staffe attaccate al case superiore.

    • Sfila il cavo del trackpad dalla sua apertura nel case superiore.

    I concur with Anonymous 596. There is a support wall that runs front to back, under keyboard, held down by 2 Phillips screws that will need to be removed & transferred to new upper case. You can see it being touched by index finger in this pic.

    lamajr - Replica

  45. Tira via il trackpad dal bordo esterno del case superiore.
    • Tira via il trackpad dal bordo esterno del case superiore.

    • Rimuovi il trackpad e mettilo da parte.

    There's a missing step here. In addition to the trackpad, there's an aluminum structural piece that sits under the center of the keyboard, that has to be migrated from old to new case. It's clearly shown to the left of the repair-person's right hand in step 44.

    anonymous 596 - Replica

  46. Nei prossimi passaggi, dovrai lavorare sul nuovo case superiore.
    • Nei prossimi passaggi, dovrai lavorare sul nuovo case superiore.

    • Usa un cacciavite Torx T6 per avvitare appena la vite da 1,1 mm inclusa con il tuo nuovo case superiore nel foro vicino al centro dell'apertura del tackpad.

    • Stringila solo di un giro per ora.

    I bought a used replacement case and had to move a few parts from the old case to the replacement. This included the battery indicator cable, the clips for the trackpad and the bracket in the center of the top case. So worth it at this point to compare your old and replacement case to be sure everything you need is there.

    Ron - Replica

    my new case came with the set screw already installed, and i couldn’t loosen it. i didn’t want to strip it and cause a bigger problem, so i left it alone. the trackpad seems to work fine so far regardless, although i may take the bottom case off and play with it a little if i get a chance.

    i also (just like Ron) had to move the trackpad clips, battery indicator and center bracket to the new case. they were not included.

    Matt - Replica

  47. Infila attentamente il cavo del tackpad originale nella sua fessura nel tuo nuovo case superiore. Usa una mano per tenere fermo il cavo del trackpad mentre infili le due alette di bloccaggio nel bordo esterno del trackpad sotto il coperchio del case superiore.
    • Infila attentamente il cavo del tackpad originale nella sua fessura nel tuo nuovo case superiore.

    • Usa una mano per tenere fermo il cavo del trackpad mentre infili le due alette di bloccaggio nel bordo esterno del trackpad sotto il coperchio del case superiore.

    • Tira il cavo del trackpad mentre lo appoggi nel suo alloggio nel tuo nuovo case superiore.

  48. Avvita una vite a croce Phillips da 1,2 mm in ogni foro esterno del trackpad (due viti in totale).
    • Avvita una vite a croce Phillips da 1,2 mm in ogni foro esterno del trackpad (due viti in totale).

    • Avviterai le altre in un attimo.

    • Stringi le viti, quindi svitale di un quarto di giro per poter allineare il trackpad nei prossimi passaggi.

  49. Mentre continui a provare a cliccare il trackpad, avvita delicatamente la vite Torx T6 finché il click ti sembra tornato come prima di smontarlo.
    • Mentre continui a provare a cliccare il trackpad, avvita delicatamente la vite Torx T6 finché il click ti sembra tornato come prima di smontarlo.

    • Puoi capire quando la vite è stretta dal suono del click del trackpad. Se la vite non è stretta abbastanza, il trackpad avrà una corsa eccessiva prima di fare click. Se è troppo stretta, il trackpad si cliccherà troppo facilmente e non emetterà il suo classico suono corposo.

  50. Ora gira il case superiore in modo che la tastiera sia rivolta verso l'alto.
    • Ora gira il case superiore in modo che la tastiera sia rivolta verso l'alto.

    • Allinea il trackpad in modo che sia centrato nella sua apertura nel case superiore.

  51. Stingi le due viti esterne sul bordo interno del trackpad e controlla l'allineamento sull'esterno del case superiore.
    • Stingi le due viti esterne sul bordo interno del trackpad e controlla l'allineamento sull'esterno del case superiore.

    • Se l'allineamento ti sembra buono, avvita il resto delle viti a croce Phillips sul bordo inferno del trackpad.

    • Prima di rimontare la tua macchina, controlla che la vite centrale sia ancora avvitata in una posizione che faccia cliccare il trackpad correttamente.

    You can actually replace the keyboard alone fairly easily! I don't know why everyone says you have to replace the whole top case, because if you've got the guts to go this far, you might as well just peel back the illuminator cover and get to work pulling all those tiny screws in the keyboard... Just be careful when peeling up the black adhesive keyboard cover, because you will need to replace it. I used the edge of the ifixit Sesame tool (very thin flat metal opening tool) to carefully slip under any bits of adhesive, and had the keyboard exposed in no time. Also be careful because the clear plastic sheet is actually the keyboard illuminator. Once under all that, it's a mere 50 or so tiny screws, 2 screws in the power button backing, and you've got the keyboard out. Use a magnetized #000 phillips, it will make life much easier than anything else.

    Logan Bean - Replica

    Absolutely right. I just replaced a keyboard the same way without much problem but i just want to add that those tiny screws need extra care as the heads can get damaged very easily. If damaged, they become very difficult to remove.

    Masood -

    I did just that on my mid-2010 MacBook Pro about a month ago and sadly will have to do it to my wife's Early-2011 one next week. I was cleaning all the crap off her keyboard and apparently nuked the K and 0 keys on her keyboard. Probably my ply challenge was aligning the keyboard illuminator. It's still not aligned properly on mine so some keys are better lit than others, but otherwise it was a relatively easy fix and far cheaper than replacing the entire upper case.

    John Adam Wickliffe -

    I replaced my keyboard less than an hour ago. The biggest pain/most time consuming was reattaching the ZIF connector for the keyboard and backlight. No matter what I did I could not get the %#*@ thing to reattach. What sadist designs these things? I had to walk away from the project for an hour and finally success.

    All those screws will make you go crosseyed!

    Gordon - Replica

    It helps to put some tape along the cable going lengthwise to the cable, and then fold the end of the tape onto itself to give yourself something to hold onto. This will give you some leverage to get that puppy into the socket.

    maccentric -

    I’m glad you managed !!!

    I’m suffering :( take a part about 5 times…… ordered new (used) keyboard, the same results. I tested logic board in my daughter MAC, board works 100% no trouble ……. what could be wrong? there a secret how to reassemble keyboard parts together? I ripped a little bit black plastic thing, not top one with tiny connectors……

    In the end I have two keyboards, cleaned and taken a part, both of them acting identical when installed. Some keys respond by giving absolutely not relevant symbols, beeping noise come with almost every key i pressed…..

    Recovering after massive cappuccino spell after surprising hug :(((((

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I swear to post photo step by step, if I will achieve this one……….. assemble back to 100% working condition after total reassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and drying………. just keyboard panel.

    Give me nightmares :) will be first time I have so much trouble to fix………

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I'm wondering about putting it back together. Different wires and small parts etc were glued or adhered in some way to the case or sides or whatever, as it is put together in the beginning. Is that just to make it easier to put it back together? Should I try to stick them back the way they were with something? Can you use tape or glue if it's just a wire? I wouldn't want to use something that would melt...or is this not something to worry apout?

    ingwis - Replica

    I just used 1/4 polymide tape, and iFixit double sided tape. Works like a champ.

    Brent Hillyer -

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12 Commenti

This is a great guide. Just replaced my keyboard after a spill. It's definitely a harrowing experience, especially getting all those 67 microscopic screws holding the keyboard against the top side. But if you sit down with approximately 2 beers (wouldn't recommend more or you'll probably start making mistakes), it's a perfectly manageable 3-4 hour experience. Just take it slow!

Nathan Beach - Replica

If I replace just the keyboard, are there any steps that I can skip?

Duane Wood -

Just finished replacing the top cover assembly. The biggest problem I had was re-inserting the ZIF connectors for the keyboard and backlight. There isn’t enough room for my fat fingers to line up the cable with the socket. The angled tweezers applied carefully (don’t want to puncture or rip the cable) and a little help from a spudger made it happen. When switching the cases check carefully for “missing” parts. Besides the trackpad, the upper case I got from iFixit lacked the center support bracket for the optical drive and logic board, the little screw bracket for the bottom case and the antenna stuck to the case behind the right speaker. The antenna is a little fiddly because it’s stickied to the case and there’s not much room to pry it out without bending and possibly damaging it.

All that said, it wasn’t a particularly difficult job, just labor intensive. And the wife’s reaction to getting her business computer back without buying a new one was worth it.

Raymond Ives -

Just finished this and the only things I would add deal with the metal plate that hold the power meter button in is not mentioned and luckily I was able to slide the cable under the logic board and make the connection. otherwise it would be good to add this step before you re insert the logic board. Also the black and orange rubber part that is the bottom of the hard drive mount. They just lift out of the old case and slide into the new case. And there is a metal piece below the speaker that needs to be transferred as well.

Otherwise great guild.

maxcasas21 - Replica

I just replaced the keyboard with all those pesky screws. But all is working again. I missed the part in replacing the keyboard itself in the first place. You need to have the sheets in the right order and in the right orientation. Also does it need removal of the stiffening bar that run along the keyboard. I forgot when I removed it, so I was a bit puzzeld when to put it back. Would be nice to add those steps also to this otherwise perfect guide!

haabee - Replica

Thank you! I went on to replace the keyboard itself, which I found for $20. If I do it again I will make a guide.

steven - Replica

This video might help in replacing the keyboard part. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCmPqsvV...

pzb4 - Replica

Just changed the upper cover, no way we could have done this without these instructions, many thumbs up

Saumil Patel - Replica

Worked great only took about 45 minutes and works like brand new. I had already purchased another MacBook and just set the old one aside believing it was dead. But great experience, fast shipping, and easy tutorials. Love it

carston staehr - Replica

After seeing how many screws were required to replace just the keyboard I decided I would much rather not risk losing one in the carpet or to the cat or half of them stripping (someone in the factory was lazy when they put my macbook together, half the screws were stripped the first time I opened the case) I went with the full top case replacement and I am so glad I did. Some bits may be slightly different if you had your macbook custom built and/or have made modifications along the way like I have, but overall the guide is perfect. Took me about three hours with distractions, but now my Y key works again and the entire setup is beautifully dust and cat hair free!

vcole - Replica

Great guide. It would be nice to add the steps for replacing the keyboard / backlight - it wasn’t too hard but added at least an hour to the job !

I think its worth using threadlock on the screws as they often work loose later if you don’t

jonathan ansell - Replica

additional info.

because i only need to change keyboard, i didn’t do steps 25~27 and 35~37

note: for keyboard removal use this guide step 27~29 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Keyboard Replacement (guide 23632)

sai - Replica

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