Sostituzione case posteriore iPhone 6s Plus

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

So my screen shattered completely and the screen first had colored lines on tge while right side then it went out completely. If i get an lcd and digitizer replacement I'd that oing to fix it

I would initially recommend a well-lit, comfortable area and placing the screws on a white piece of paper with the screw sizes written down (apparently there are magnetic mats, also). Also, I found placing the phone on a paper towel is good so that if a screw is dropped, it will lessen the likelihood of bouncing away.

I recommend that, before you even lift a screwdriver or plug in the hair dryer, get a piece of paper and a pencil. As you unscrew and remove the parts, write the size and/or number for that step and put them by their label. I also used a microscope to identify the screw heads (I'm 75 and my vision is not what it used to be). Laying them out in order, I just went backwards when putting them all back in. I used an anti-static cleaning cloth instead of paper, but I should think they both will work.

N.B.: my kit had a nice pretty blue plastic sheet with a black outline on it. It was only when I put the whole phone back together and was packing up the supplies and tools that I realized it was a replacement gummi seal. A LABEL WOULD BE VERY USEFUL HERE!

I am a retired engineer, and aside from the size of the bits and bobs, it was a piece of cake! Thanks...you saved me $75!

This is important. I’ve serviced a lot of iphones/ipads for my family as a hobby in the past.

The adhesive was so tight, I cracked the screen trying to pull it/pry it off.

I highly suggest heating at least the bottom edge enough to soften the adhesive

I didn’t have an iOpener, nor a heat gun; however I do have a small personal size hand pillow filled with feed corn. Two minutes in the nuke machine got it plenty warm, and smelled like fresh popcorn too.

I would suggest that you are not shy with the hairdryer. A high heat on the bottom of the phone for at least a minute, if not more, if required.

take out screws first!!

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

I broke my iphone screen in the first step!

This screen removal step got more wrestley than I anticipated. The adhesive is quite strong. I used a flat-ended razor tool that I have to begin the prying - I don’t know how I would have got it started without this.

Ok - just got my battery replacement kit and even got the opening kit for added insurance just in case. Settled down to startwork after carefully cleaning my (immaculate) screen - no scratches or anything, with rubbing alcohol, removing screws and warming with a hair dryer, only to find the suction cup provided in the kit is worse than useless! It won’t stick to the screen well at all. When it does - it pops off at the lightest pull :-( Now what do I do to get this started?!

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

I found it easiest to use two suction cups. One on the front as directed, and a second one on the back. Give the spudger to your assistant, and have them slip it in place while you pull the display from the case.

I gave up with the suction cup as it wasn't working for me with a cracked screen. Having heated the bottom of the phone with a hair dryer with a high heat for a good minute or so, I used a safety scraper (essentially a razor blade in a holder) along the bottom of the phone to separate the screen from the body of the phone. I used the scraper vertically between the bottom of the screen and the phone body and levered it sufficiently so that I could fit the spudger between the screen and the phone body. My experience when I first used the spudger around the frame was that the cracks in the screen caused the screen glass to separate from the frame, so I had to re-do it and ensure that the screen frame was separated from the phone body.

Safety scraper:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unger-CD170-Win...

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

When warmed, the suction cup was useless. Using the tip of a knife blade, was able to get it separated enough to insert spudger.

For me this was the most time consuming task. I used a hair dryer for heating. I found a very tight adhesive. For a moment I thought of abandoning my efforts and take the assembly to a professional repairman. But as they say, patience is a virtue.

After fiddling for about 20 minutes, I achieved a barely noticable opening. So I decided to change the strategy. Instead of applying heat all over the base, I preceeded with small steps with heat concentrated near the opening. I applied intense heat only for about 15 to 20 seconds and immediately working with spudger. It took about an hour to completely open the case. It worked.

Thanks for reading.

- Mr Gamma

I also struggled with this step. Lots of heat, 3 different suction cups, I finally could see a small gap... much too thin to fit even a piece of paper into. A video on another site said it was the easy way. I used a sharp craft knife barely into the seam between metal and glass and pried slightly. And it started up. Still a pain freeing the rest of the adhesive. Perhaps the adhesive really sets up over the course of 5 years? I have it hinged open now, so onto the next steps.

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

if the display cables are damaged how can you tell ?

In theory, I like the idea of propping up the screen with a rubber band and box/soda can like this, but after ripping the FaceTime camera cable twice, I realize that this method puts too much stress on the cable because it places the screen so far back. Even in this photo, you can see that the cable is taut. I’d recommend just holding the screen with your free hand to put the least amount of stress on that cable as possible.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

Do not lose track of which hole these screws go into. They MUST be put back into the correct hole that they came out of. If not, you will get the dreaded “long screw damage” on the mainboard, and that will be the end of the show.

Just remember where these screws go, and it will be fine.

Ended up employing a Philips #0 from a regular jeweler/precision kit on the 2.3mm screw. Bits seem a bit off for this step.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

My bracket actually has a black wire connected on the underside that is attached to the metal bracket (with screw) below it in the picture. I decided to leave it on and just move it to the side.

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

There was some black goop/glue around the battery connector, and when I lifted the old connector, some of that glue fell into the receptacle. It was easy to fish out (with magnifying glass and tweezers) but if you don't catch it, you may not get a good connection.

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

Use dixie cups and label them for each part you take out. You can stack the dixie cups to keep them in order.

I skipped this for the battery removal, but when I went to replace the seal, I had to remove it anyway.

I lost the bottom left screw of the five in this step - anyone know if it’sgoing to cause a problem? ‘m going to go ahead and put thephone back together anyway - wil report back withresult

OMG…. SO excited! It works! Seems that missing screw wasn’t an issue. The reason I’m so excited is, I’m a senior and have bever attempted anything like this before and was worried I’d mess it up, or it just wouuldn’t work for whatever reason. I know I never would have tried if it weren’t for finding this site, the great service, parts to do it and the videos/guides. Thank you so much ifixit. :-)

I changed the battery, without removing the screen, when I closed the phone the front camera and speaker no longer work.

Be careful on this step: with my iPhone, one of the connectors (the home button/fingerprint sensor) was stuck to the underside of the bracket and I almost strained its cable.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

I found prying from the right to be better

Is there any need for this step if only the Battery is replaced

I don’t recommend using the spudger for this as you can do more damage that way. I scratched the black square thing underneath.

I managed to remove the battery without disconnecting and removing the display first. This avoids possible difficulties in these steps (see below).

One has to be careful that, while fighting with the battery strips, the display remains in its 90º position

Thanks you i fix it

“When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

This part was a very frustrating experience for me.  I thought that my replacement screen was just poor quality, as it worked when it wanted to work.  Pressing home/power repeatedly sometimes brought it back, charging to 100% also brought it back.    The actual problem was that it is very easy to get some of the gasket material caught in the connector, which I couldn’t see until I used my jeweler's loupe.  I used 91% alcohol to carefully clean all of this off until all pins were shiny, and it took about 6 tries to get it right.  However, the screen’s been running well for 2 days now.  I already bought another screen replacement which I have for a spare as it was 100% not the problem.

I followed all the steps, so the sound is missed. What could be happened? thanks a lot. Fabio Balbino

How much is this to replace?

And where could I buy from?

You can buy these at iFixit: iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer - Original LCD

Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

Mine came loose somehow?

I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

The 6s plus screen repair kit i bought has the wrong size cable here on the replacement part. SOL.

Once I accidentally disconnected the display assembly cables before disconnecting the battery. Now the home button and fingerprint sensor doesn’t work. Any solution to this?? I have tried a different home button, even that doesn’t work.

I changed the battery on my iPhone and put all together again and charged it. When I pressed the home button the lock screen with my picture appeared and when I pressed it again the screen with the digits from 0 to 9 appeared. I was asked to enter my passcode, but when I did that nothing happened, the phone did not open.

What could be wrong? Is the home screen cable not fully connected or what could be the reason for this?

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

Sostituzione gruppo pulsante home dell'iPhone 6s Plus

If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.

These instructions worked great for me. Thank you!

If like me you are only wanting to clean out the speaker, you do not need to do this step. You can skip to step 50

Mine had no tape there

When replacing the bracket be sure to get the other end of the NFC bracket included with the right hand screw.

If necessary, the sticky patch on top f the connector should be removed. Helped my case a lot :)

Hi ,

Thanks a lot for your tutorial !

Can you explain how can we change the lens of the camera ?

Thanks ;)

The silver end of the NFC bracket goes here. The gold floppy end goes under the camera bracket.

Wo kommt den der “6 s Plus Bluetooth Flex” überhaubthin bitte ?

Also "das = https://www.ebay.de/itm/123934065844

My problem when I pull the cable in the socket i shocked bot of them pull togeher the cable and the socket in the logic board the small circle i cry how to fix pleasss help mee

The cable broke instead of coming out of the socket. Oh well. GG

My phone doesn't have a cable running here

Don’t forget this guy when you’re putting it back in! you’ll have to undo a bunch of screws

This is not a Lightning connector - its a radio connector.

From here you can skip ahead to step 50.

This is super vague. Doesn’t explain exactly HOW to remove the cable from the clips, like it does in step 44. Slightly damaged my cable because I didn’t know how to remove it or the nature of the clip.

Use can use a spudger in a pinch to dislodge the 2.2mm standoff screw. This was the most difficult screw in the phone. A Phillips bit will not work.

What do we call / name this bracket?

My clip in the middle is not removing no matter how hard i pry or what i do, any help??

Ugh, the socket connector separated from the back of the rigid cable. Two wires are still attached to the socket connector, but I’m guessing I’ll need to purchase a replacement WiFi/Bluetooth antenna cable at some point. I hope you sell these too?

**Update** I used the tiniest drop of super glue with activator on both the connector and cable. It seems to be holding! Will reassemble and see if it works. Lucky for me, you sell the replacement cable for $14.99 if my cheap bastard fix fails :)

**Update #2** Using super glue on the upper left wi-fi connector seems to have worked, both my bluetooth and wi-fi are working well post-repair.

This step isn't necessary. You can leave this cable in place.

yes totally unnecessary to remove this or the board at all.

Dégagez le câble d'antenne Wi-Fi diversity du clip du connecteur de mise à la terre (italique = description à vérifier !)

Bei mir war da nur eine Schraube !

Beim mir ist da nur eine, Schraube. Auf dem Bild auch.

If you’re following the quickest past, don’t pull it off, cable of Wi-fi Anten is still attached

can i remove the lighting connector without steps 27 to 35?

make sure you don’t remove the little black plastic part that goes between the microphone & case, it was firmly attached to the left microphone.

The instructions don't mention it, but the photo shows the microphone by the headphone jack also being eased back, which we did have to do; agree with Rhonda's comment, and separating those parts took persistence.

The Spudger really works well to align the new headphone jack up when reinstalling the new lightning connector assembly

Save the sealant rubber from the jack and the lighting connector if the new one does not have it.

Flash/microphone bracket on the second (and first too) picture needs to go in the socket located on the frame’s top (therefore the top side of the bracket is not visible like in steps 23-27), not lay on top of the socket. I had to come back to this later during my reassembly.

You need to remove a black sticker to reveal the 1.7 mm Philips screw (Orange circle on the picture).