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Introduzione

Usa questa guida per rimuovere in sicurezza la batteria incollata del tuo MacBook Pro. Un compito che si svolge meglio con l'aiuto di un kit sostituzione batteria iFixit; il prodotto antiadesivo nel tuo kit scioglierà l'adesivo che fissa la batteria, permettendoti di rimuoverla facilmente.

Il prodotto antiadesivo iFixit è altamente infiammabile. Questa procedura va eseguita in un'area ben ventilata. Non fumare e non lavorare vicino a una fiamma libera durante la procedura.

Per minimizzare il rischio di danneggiamenti, accendi il tuo MacBook e consenti alla batteria di scaricarsi completamente prima di iniziare questa procedura. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può creare un incendio pericoloso e incontrollabile se viene forata accidentalmente. Se la tua batteria è gonfia, prendi adeguate precauzioni.

Nota: il solvente usato per sciogliere l'adesivo della batteria può danneggiare alcuni tipi di plastica, come le coperture e gli altoparlanti del MacBook Pro. Questa guida ti spiega come rimuovere gli altoparlanti prima di lavorare sulla batteria.

Se stai usando il vecchio tipo di solvente anticolla iFixit con siringa e bottiglia separata (non più in vendita), clicca qui per passare a un set di istruzioni lievemente diverso.

  1. Rimuovi le seguenti viti Pentalobe P5 che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook Pro:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Pentalobe P5 che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook Pro:

    • Otto viti da 3,0 mm

    • Due viti da 2,3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Replica

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    Just be careful to store the 2 shorter screws in a seperate space then the other 3mm screws.

    The first time I opened up my Macbook, I put the screws in the wrong order.

    Shahzad Arif -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Replica

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Replica

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Replica

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Replica

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Replica

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Replica

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Replica

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Replica

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Replica

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - Replica

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Replica

    Hi there, about advice no.4 Why should I bring Aluminium Foil? What is the purpose of using Aluminium Foil. Thank you.

    RR J -

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Replica

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - Replica

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Replica

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Replica

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - Replica

    Hi. I got your beautiful guide and I got a toolkit, unfortunately not the ifix it and everything is ready to start the operation. But the P5 seems to be too big for the screws of my late 2013 a1398. Are there more than one types/ sizes of P5?

    Chrysovalantis Lamprianidis - Replica

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - Replica

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - Replica

    Hi,

    Do you have to mail in your laptop to get the battery replaced for $199?

    Thanks,

    RB

    Roshanda B -

    Alternative part suggestion(s) that worked for me:

    * Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter Card for Upgrade 2013-2015 Year Macs(Not Fit Early 2013 MacBook Pro - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01CWWAENG

    * Samsung 970 EVO 1TB NVMe M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V7E1T0BW - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BN21...

    The adapter supports many common drives (though not all) and a few minor drawbacks, but otherwise has worked flawlessy for over a year.

    Harvey Thompson - Replica

    I have now replaced the battery and the dc-in board, and I still can’t get the battery to charge. I also bought a new magsafe power adapter. It appears all cables are connected, and the computer runs fine on the battery (until it runs out of juice, then I will be at a complete loss). No clue what to try next. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    matt rogers - Replica

  2. Alzando il bordo vicino al profilo di copertura, solleva il case inferiore dal MacBook Pro.
    • Alzando il bordo vicino al profilo di copertura, solleva il case inferiore dal MacBook Pro.

    • Metti da una parte il case inferiore.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Replica

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Replica

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Replica

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Replica

  3. Stacca lo sticker di avviso che copre il connettore batteria.
    • Stacca lo sticker di avviso che copre il connettore batteria.

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Replica

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Replica

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - Replica

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - Replica

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Replica

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Replica

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - Replica

    Let me stop you guys here. You can skip steps 5-35.

    That’s what I did without a problem.

    Go directly to step 35 after the next step. 5-35 is only so you have more room to pry the old battery off.

    If you are not keeping the old battery, then just pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.

    This is not a difficult fix.

    Chris - Replica

  4. Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, stacca con cautela il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Piega indietro il cavo della batteria per evitare che il connettore possa fare contatto accidentalmente con la scheda logica.
    • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, stacca con cautela il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega indietro il cavo della batteria per evitare che il connettore possa fare contatto accidentalmente con la scheda logica.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Replica

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Replica

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Replica

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Replica

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - Replica

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - Replica

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Replica

    cool.

    removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset

    wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)

    Dennis Britsch -

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Replica

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Replica

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - Replica

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - Replica

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - Replica

    I also skipped all the additional disassembly. I used cards and wire to cut through the adhesive quite easily. I also did not apply any tape on the new battery. The Mid-2014 laptop seems slim and tight enough to keep the cells from moving and the two screws at the power connector area seem to stabilize the connection and battery as a whole. Such STRONG tape seems unwarranted for the amount of squirm room in such a tight compartment.

    P.S. Remember, while you have it open, clean, clean, clean!!!

    jyee - Replica

    Thanks guys for all the tips. I followed the pragmatic way of cutting short and really taking battery out only. Thanks to the cards it worked well and none of the liquid made it to any other part of the computer. Put some efforts in to properly clean the remaining glue after battery was out - but looked good and this message comes from the old mid 2012 15” Retina modell - but with the new battery in - and all is fine. I am happy - thanks to the short cut encouragement.

    Jochen Färber - Replica

    Also skipped steps from 5 to 32. I used the supplied cards and a piece of string, i.e. braided nylon twine, (thickness 24). and used supplied acetone sparingly, mostly to the middle section. It took one and a half hours and another half hour or so for removing the leftover goo. It was demanding but not challenging, just take it slow and steady.

    jkobli - Replica

    Learnt a lot from former comments. Also skipped steps from 5 to 54. Used fishing line to cut through adjective by myself easily, but needed to put on glove to protect hands. I didnt order full package, so used nail polish remover and eraser to clean the base. Looks good and all is fine! Thanks to the short cut method!

    Gerry GU - Replica

  5. Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare i tre cavi dell'antenna AirPort dalle loro sedi sulla scheda AirPort.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare i tre cavi dell'antenna AirPort dalle loro sedi sulla scheda AirPort.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Replica

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - Replica

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Replica

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - Replica

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Replica

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Replica

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Replica

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…

    Jurgen -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Replica

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Replica

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Replica

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Replica

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Replica

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Replica

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Replica

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Replica

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Replica

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Replica

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Replica

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Replica

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Replica

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - Replica

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Replica

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Replica

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Replica

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - Replica

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - Replica

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - Replica

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - Replica

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - Replica

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - Replica

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - Replica

    I found placing the spunger under the part of the connectors AWAY FROM THE WIRE (top and/or side depending on which of the three you’re finessing), and then rocking them gently from side to side pops them out gently.

    MFMauceri - Replica

    I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .

    Simon Anthony - Replica

    I skipped the step of removing the airport antenna cables and removed the airport card with the cables since so many users said it was extremely hard to get the airport cables back on properly. By skipping the airport cable removal I save a lot of potential headaches and performing this task was not any more difficult to do.

    Timothy McDaniel - Replica

  6. Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere via dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica il connettore del cavo della fotocamera.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere via dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica il connettore del cavo della fotocamera.

    • Accertati di spingere parallelamente alla scheda, prima da un lato e poi dall'altro, per far "camminare" il connettore fuori dalla sua sede.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Replica

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Replica

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Replica

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Replica

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Replica

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Replica

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Replica

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Replica

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Replica

    Did you ever get the fan to stop? how?

    Cyd Trice -

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Replica

    can you give guidance on the soldering? Im new to it and dont want to burn anything / especially the wrong thing!

    Cyd Trice -

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Replica

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Replica

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Replica

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - Replica

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - Replica

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - Replica

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - Replica

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    A MAGNIFYING GLASS really helps on this. The cable’s sheathing may need to be pushed back a tad to find a place to get leverace to work the pin out.

    MFMauceri - Replica

    DO FIRST

    STEP 7 : Untight the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    STEP 8 : Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    So you can easily disconnect the connector.

    KRIS - Replica

    Tweezers saved me on this one! Take your time and keep trying (gently) if you're still struggling

    Elizabeth Jolly - Replica

  7. Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto la copertura in gomma del dissipatore sulla ventola di destra. Fai scorrere lo spudger sotto tutta la lunghezza la copertura per staccare l'adesivo. Solleva la copertura e ripiegala in modo da avere accesso ai cavi sottostanti.
    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto la copertura in gomma del dissipatore sulla ventola di destra.

    • Fai scorrere lo spudger sotto tutta la lunghezza la copertura per staccare l'adesivo.

    • Solleva la copertura e ripiegala in modo da avere accesso ai cavi sottostanti.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Replica

    True @cahcadden.

    Worst case you could accidentally tear it off

    (thank god, that didn’t happen to me, but belive me —> it was a close call)

    Shahzad Arif - Replica

  8. Usa le dita per tirare via dalla ventola i cavi AirPort/fotocamera. I cavi aderiscono alla ventola, quindi staccali con cura per evitare di danneggiarli. Sfila con attenzione i cavi dal passacavo in plastica.
    • Usa le dita per tirare via dalla ventola i cavi AirPort/fotocamera.

    • I cavi aderiscono alla ventola, quindi staccali con cura per evitare di danneggiarli.

    • Sfila con attenzione i cavi dal passacavo in plastica.

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Replica

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - Replica

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Replica

  9. Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, solleva dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica il cavo della scheda I/O. in fase di rimontaggio, connetti per primo questo terminale in quanto non è flessibile. Con una procedura simile, rimuovi il connettore della scheda I/O dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda I/O. Rimuovi il cavo della scheda I/O dal MacBook Pro.
    • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, solleva dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica il cavo della scheda I/O. in fase di rimontaggio, connetti per primo questo terminale in quanto non è flessibile.

    • Con una procedura simile, rimuovi il connettore della scheda I/O dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda I/O.

    • Rimuovi il cavo della scheda I/O dal MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - Replica

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - Replica

    ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    i did exactly the same mistake! Same procedure as well: keep calm, and start again the tutorial.

    every thing work find now

    Guigui -

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - Replica

    Confirming, these are indeed zifs for me too. My padding has notches indicating location of lever needing to be raised. Obviously lever is tiny, look closely. If your padding is a clean rectangle as shown in guide, you may not have zif sockets here

    hamiltont -

    Confirmed; if the foam pieces are not perfectly rectangular, you should be able to pry back the side of the foam with the cut-away. It folds in half. You can see the lever under the foam. Lift the handle with the spudger, then when it’s pointing straight up (it flips up), you can lift up on the lever (straight up). This should be done for both ends.

    Patryk -

    I just did this and there are no silver lever handles. The connectors just pop off when you pry on them.

    edc - Replica

    After freeing each end of the I/O cable, it can be left stuck to the right speaker, and then remove them both together in step 14.

    Paul Clarke - Replica

    leave the cable stuck to the fan

    AES - Replica

  10. Rimuovi le singole vite Torx T5 da 2,9 mm che fissano la scheda AirPort alla scheda logica.
    • Rimuovi le singole vite Torx T5 da 2,9 mm che fissano la scheda AirPort alla scheda logica.

  11. Afferra dai suoi lati sottili la scheda AirPort e tirala parallelamente alla scheda logica, rimuovendo così la scheda AirPort dal MacBook Pro. Afferra dai suoi lati sottili la scheda AirPort e tirala parallelamente alla scheda logica, rimuovendo così la scheda AirPort dal MacBook Pro.
    • Afferra dai suoi lati sottili la scheda AirPort e tirala parallelamente alla scheda logica, rimuovendo così la scheda AirPort dal MacBook Pro.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - Replica

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - Replica

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - Replica

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - Replica

    I will add to what others have said about lifting the card lightly using a spudger to get the adhesive to let go of the board. Otherwise the card may get damaged.

    jeiboussa - Replica

    Yes. LIFT up slightly on one end to clear retaining pin before tugging.

    MFMauceri - Replica

  12. Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio su lo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola destra. Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio su lo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola destra.

    • Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso.

    • Iniziando dalla cima del cavo, fai scorrere un attrezzo di apertura in plastica sotto il cavo della ventola destra per liberarlo dalla scheda logica.

    • Fai attenzione quando liberi il cavo, perché aderisce fortemente alla scheda logica.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - Replica

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - Replica

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - Replica

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - Replica

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - Replica

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - Replica

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - Replica

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - Replica

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - Replica

    Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360

    Ketut Sandiarsa - Replica

    Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!

    Paul Clarke -

    Incredibly poor instructions!!! Thanks to the incorrect wording, I have just ruined the fan connector. There is NO lever. The cable gently slid out, after I borked it. I’m done with IFIXIT and the $@$*!& information. How about a little video clip inserted here. You guys can do better!

    Lorne Shantz - Replica

  13. Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di destra alla scheda logica:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di destra alla scheda logica:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 4,4 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,9 mm a testa larga

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,0 mm con una parte cilindrica lunga 2 mm

    With most parts, its easier to leave the screws in the holes parts they come off with, and have small containers or a layout to do this with so each major part does not get mixed up - too many similar but different screws!

    AES - Replica

    What I did to separate the different screws, is to take the top of the ifixit essentials-kit (which has lots of small spaces to hold screws) and picked a row of these spaces, which I marked for the cooling-fan screws. So basically I just sort them by lenth: The 5 mm on the top space, underneath it the 4,4mm, and at last the 3,9mm. That way I didn’t loose track, because I was working in tandem with this instruction.

    Shahzad Arif - Replica

    Just a heads up in case anyone else gets confused - in this photo, the cable from the previous step (12) is still connected. It should be free from the board so that fan can actually be removed.

    Elizabeth Jolly - Replica

    In my case, the 3.9mm screw was connected to a spacer that sat flush to the motherboard. I misplaced this spacer and had to take the computer apart twice to find it… Make sure not to lose it if you have one!

    Daniel Kirk - Replica

    I was able to stop at this step and jump ahead to removing the battery. I did this based on the fact that the batteries were extremely swollen and I could see that the adhesive strips below were already separated from the bottom quite a bit. In retrospect my wife had complained that the computer ran very hot in the vicinity of the batteries (not sure why) but that heat apparently diminished the adhesive properties and allowed me to slowly pry the cells up while using a spudger to push between the case and batteries. Saved twenty some odd steps by doing it that way. If the batteries weren’t swollen I could not have done it this way. NOTE: When ordering just the battery adhesive remover is NOT included. I did not order it because I have acetone here and felt I did not need the iFixit remover.

    Terry Angelli - Replica

  14. Solleva e rimuovi la ventola destra dal MacBook Pro.
    • Solleva e rimuovi la ventola destra dal MacBook Pro.

    Do I need to use thermal paste when installing new fan?

    1 0 - Replica

  15. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per alzare la copertura in gomma del dissipatore dalla ventola sinistra.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per alzare la copertura in gomma del dissipatore dalla ventola sinistra.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - Replica

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - Replica

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - Replica

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Replica

  16. Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di sinistra alla scheda logica:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di sinistra alla scheda logica:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 4,4 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,0 mm con una parte cilindrica lunga 2 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,9 mm a testa larga

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - Replica

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - Replica

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - Replica

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - Replica

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - Replica

  17. Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola sinistra. Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso. Iniziando dalla cima del cavo, fai scorrere un attrezzo di apertura in plastica sotto il cavo della ventola destra per liberarlo dalla scheda logica.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola sinistra.

    • Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso.

    • Iniziando dalla cima del cavo, fai scorrere un attrezzo di apertura in plastica sotto il cavo della ventola destra per liberarlo dalla scheda logica.

    • Fai attenzione quando liberi il cavo, perché aderisce fortemente alla scheda logica. Se necessario, usa un iOpener o un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il cavo allo scopo di ammorbidire l'adesivo e rendere più facile la rimozione del cavo stesso.

    • Solleva dal dispositivo la ventola sinistra.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - Replica

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - Replica

    be nice, silly

    Richard RUNGE - Replica

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - Replica

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - Replica

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - Replica

    So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?

    Amin Shah Gilani - Replica

    The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.

    Steven DeRose - Replica

    After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?

    Thanks

    Karsten Hullebeck - Replica

    I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

  18. Rimuovi la singola vite Torx T5 da 3,1 mm che fissa l'SSD alla scheda logica.
    • Rimuovi la singola vite Torx T5 da 3,1 mm che fissa l'SSD alla scheda logica.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - Replica

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - Replica

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - Replica

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - Replica

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - Replica

    I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.

    Steven DeRose - Replica

  19. Kit per Nintendo Switch

    Una soluzione rapida per tornare in gioco

    Acquista Kit per Switch

    Kit per Nintendo Switch

    Una soluzione rapida per tornare in gioco

    Acquista Kit per Switch
  20. Solleva lievemente il lato destro dell'SSD e fallo scorrere con una certa decisione per allontanarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Solleva lievemente il lato destro dell'SSD e fallo scorrere con una certa decisione per allontanarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Solleva lievemente il lato destro dell'SSD e fallo scorrere con una certa decisione per allontanarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  21. Usa la punta di uno spudger per alzare il blocco del cavo dati della scheda I/O e ruotalo verso il lato batteria del computer. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per far scorrere il cavo dati della scheda I/O dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per alzare il blocco del cavo dati della scheda I/O e ruotalo verso il lato batteria del computer.

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per far scorrere il cavo dati della scheda I/O dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Non provare a sollevare il cavo dati della scheda perché il suo zoccolo è molto fragile. Tira il cavo parallelamente alla superficie della scheda logica.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Replica

    Yes, a few more detailed pics here would help. Indeed, general pics explaining HOW ALL the plugs and sockets fit would be VERY handy :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Replica

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - Replica

  22. Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 3,1 mm che fissano la scheda I/O alla scheda logica. Solleva con cautela la scheda I/O e rimuovila dal case inferiore.
    • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 3,1 mm che fissano la scheda I/O alla scheda logica.

    • Solleva con cautela la scheda I/O e rimuovila dal case inferiore.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Replica

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Replica

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Replica

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Replica

    I believe, the IO Board can stay where it is, for logic board replacement..?

    smirgle - Replica

    On a 2014.5 design, these instructions should be revised on this process. The heat pipe needs to be removed first if one were to remove the I/O CCA, Reason being, the CCA is installed first into the case and then the heat pipe contact tab lays atop the CCA under the plastic injection molded part. This injection molded piece part secures the tab to the CCA to ensure optimal contact thus, ensuring heat is wicked away from the CCA.

    So when I see comments regarding how it is easier to install than remove, that is an indicator that the user was unaware of how to correctly assemble this component thus, the CCA top side substrate is sitting below the heat pipe tab vs. the other way around.

    This will induce a thermal issue on the I/O CCA and also, possibly short out the board when the conformal coating and painted surface of the heat pipe wears off due to vibration when cables are connected.

    While I like these instructions, I would overhaul them and revise them.

    Christopher McKenna - Replica

  23. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del jack cuffie dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del jack cuffie dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    After connect the cable aux is not working

    deepak selvanathan - Replica

    Mine is not working as well after reconnecting, what to do now?

    Guillermo Pichardo -

    Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.

    Ross Karnes - Replica

    Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway

    Cameron Melvin - Replica

    Mine not soldered.

    Paul Clarke - Replica

  24. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante sinistro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante destro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante sinistro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante destro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Accertati di far leva sul connettore del cavo e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Far leva sullo zoccolo può portare al suo distacco dalla scheda logica.

    This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

    http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

    My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

    Rich - Replica

    Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.

    Kitipong Mork - Replica

    Not sure what happened, but when I put it back together, i barely had enough room to plug this back in. It’s like the cable shrunk. I had to really yank on it to get it to fit.

    Jer - Replica

    Adhesive under the left cable made it hard for me to remove it. The right one came out very easy.

    Calvin Truong - Replica

    i broke off all the connectors to the logic board any fix for this ?

    Steven Rai - Replica

    be gentle - lever under each edge of the connector - you may have to do one side then the other , but the connectors come out easily enough

    AES - Replica

  25. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sbloccare la linguetta di fissaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo a nastro del microfono. Accertati di far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sbloccare la linguetta di fissaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo a nastro del microfono.

    • Accertati di far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo.

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per tirare fuori dalla sua sede il cavo a nastro della tastiera.

    On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.

    Fred Anderson - Replica

    I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(

    sturmjonny - Replica

    This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is really a pain to pull out. You sorta have to lift it up and out - I was worried I was going to flex the cable and break it too much.

    Jer - Replica

    Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.

    Andrew Dunning - Replica

    This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.

    Jay Rajamanickam - Replica

  26. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo a nastro del trackpad e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo a nastro del trackpad e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  27. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare e staccare dal suo zoccolo il connettore della retroilluminazione della tastiera.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare e staccare dal suo zoccolo il connettore della retroilluminazione della tastiera.

    Where do I get a replacement cable?

    Where does this ribbon attach to?

    mmx2000 - Replica

  28. Usa la punta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto del microfono.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto del microfono.

    • Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso.

    • Estrai dal suo zoccolo il cavo a nastro del microfono.

    A small elastic popped out when removing the cable. Glad I wore the protective glasses.

    Louie - Replica

    Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.

    Chapman Harrison - Replica

    This cable is quite stiff and felt very resistant to being pulled out - I gently shaped a small bread tag piece of plastic in to a hook that would gently and evenly pull the cable back without tilting it to one side or the other. It is also a pain getting it back in when replacing the logic board - very stiff. Be patient.

    AES - Replica

    I just used tweezers.

    curtis phan - Replica

    Looks like it had a sticky patch fixing it near the edge of the board - this would make it unwilling to come out of the socket. The patch looks to be the width of the cable and square, so probably pushing a thin something (plastic) under the cable up to the edge of the board would unstick it.

    Christopher - Replica

  29. Usa la punta di uno spudger per alzare il blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotano verso il lato alimentazione DC del computer. Tira fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica il cavo dati del display.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per alzare il blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotano verso il lato alimentazione DC del computer.

    • Tira fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica il cavo dati del display.

    • Non provare a sollevare il cavo dati del display perché il suo zoccolo è molto fragile. Tira il cavo parallelamente alla superficie della scheda logica.

    I'd recommend using the pliers.

    Calvin Truong - Replica

  30. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare con cautela il coprivite in gomma sulla testa rialzata della vite vicino al connettore MagSafe2.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare con cautela il coprivite in gomma sulla testa rialzata della vite vicino al connettore MagSafe2.

  31. Rimuovi le seguenti sei viti che fissano la scheda logica al case superiore:
    • Rimuovi le seguenti sei viti che fissano la scheda logica al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 2,6 mm

    • Due viti Torx T5 da 5,8 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,2 mm con testa rialzata

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,5 mm

    While you're doing this, unplug the right speaker before you lift the logic board. That is the only step missing in the guide.

    anthony - Replica

    anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.

    Kitipong Mork - Replica

    No, you are mistaken . Step 23 was for the LEFT speaker. Anthony is correct stating that right speaker disconnect is missing from this guide. NOW is the time to disconnect the right speaker from the LB!

    lamajr -

    when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.

    Robert Gregory - Replica

    green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)

    auntialias - Replica

  32. Sollevandola dal lato più vicino alla batteria, ruota la scheda logica verso la parte superiore del MacBook Pro. Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, spingi delicatamente il connettore MagSafe2 fuori dal suo zoccolo nella parte inferiore della scheda logica. Quando rimonti la scheda logica, controlla i cavi nelle posizioni indicate per assicurati che non finiscano pizzicati sotto la scheda logica.
    • Sollevandola dal lato più vicino alla batteria, ruota la scheda logica verso la parte superiore del MacBook Pro.

    • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, spingi delicatamente il connettore MagSafe2 fuori dal suo zoccolo nella parte inferiore della scheda logica.

    • Quando rimonti la scheda logica, controlla i cavi nelle posizioni indicate per assicurati che non finiscano pizzicati sotto la scheda logica.

    • In senso orario dall'alto: tastiera, trackpad, batteria, altoparlante destro, retroilluminazione tastiera, display, microfono, jack cuffie, altoparlante sinistro.

    In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.

    Then I followed bullet #2.

    Kitipong Mork - Replica

    Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Replica

    Agreed with Radoslaw's comment. It might even be nice to have a list of small cables to watch for during logic board reassembly.

    talarohk - Replica

    @radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    This was the single most important pic of the reassembly.

    Mike Jeffries -

    Yes heed everyone’s warning. I had to remove the entire logic board TWICE because i forgot to pull out the antennae and the backlit keyboard plug.

    Jer - Replica

    Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.

    E Carlton Hays Jr - Replica

    My logic board was stuck under the battery PCB, on the top right side of the battery PCB, when viewed like in the first picture.

    I suggest removing the two screws from step 35 holding the PCB down for a little more wiggle room before attempting to remove the logic board.

    Tom - Replica

    I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images

    Yemi Dalley - Replica

    In link MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP

    raul - Replica

    reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.

    Chapman Harrison - Replica

    I Just removed the whole power connector with the main board, seemed a little easier. But that’s just me. Good manual thou.

    Timothy de Wal - Replica

    Had a lot of trouble getting the power cable out. Would definitly recomend this.

    Calvin Truong -

    100% take the power connector out. This guide is amazing but that is something I would change in it. Also I would do step 35 before attempting to remove the logic board. Unsure if there are other implications of this approach.

    kevinhayes656 -

    Am I completely stupid? ...! When I wanted to remove the mainboard, it was still connected to a plug. I searched, but found no indication about this plug. So I had to try to figure out how this plug works. I started trying, which finally tore the console off the board: -o ...: .- ( It is a small plug to the right of the power supply - Pic. #3 top right!!. Comes below the battery. Note, this must be pushed backwards, but may have a lock. What can I do now? If someone has a tip that I do not have to change my motherboard, I am very, very grateful!

    privat - Replica

    I had the same issue where that cable was still connected. I noticed that it was the same type as another one where it needed to be lifted vertically so I did that using the tweesers.

    Jonathan McCaffrey -

    Definitely unscrew and remove the two screws that hold the MagSafe 2 connector then remove the connector with the board.

    The connector that’s not mentioned in the dissasembly manual is the right hand loudspeaker connector. It pulls up, just the same way as the left hand loudspeaker connector does. No locking tab.

    Other than that it’s a brilliant dissasembly instruction manual, well done.

    I took the logic board out, re-soldered U8900 (well known issue with these boards) and put it back together following the manual in reveres. All works fine now.

    One thing that I did which helped. I printed the manual off, then stuck the screws in every case to the page next to where each screw was described using cellotape. So every screw went back exactly where it came from.

    Steve Hills - Replica

    For me, this step was the most hard part when reassemble. Because it is easy to forget or hard to reconnect MagSafe 2 connector properly. I had to give in to professionals just to find out i couldn’t plug this MagSafe 2 connector properly. because of it’s limited angle and i only have 2 hands to do the job while board is lifted.

    kmg125 - Replica

    Instead of disconnecting the magsafe socket, I unscrewed the two screws holding it to the case. Then, when the logic board is removed, the connector will slide out with the logic board. Also useful to if theres a bunch of magnetic junk stuck to the adapter as it becomes easy to clean.

    max - Replica

    Unscrewing the 2 magsafe screws should be put as a step in the manual. I had a hard time disconnecting the cable and a hard time trying to connect it back when reassembling because there is not enough room to do it and i couldn’t figure out that there is a small clip that holds the connector back in place safely. I had to repeat the role proccess of assemble/disassemble twice in order to fix the magsafe not charging issue. I thought i had lost the connector or damaged the board.

    Jean masaoka -

    unscrewing the mag safe as max suggests is a great suggestion. Easier and you can clean the connector.

    klloyd - Replica

    It is not necessary to remove the logic board for this. I did this process without removing the logic board and the 30 steps required to disconnect, remove and reconnect it. It was much easier. Not sure why iFixit insists on removing the logic board: its presence does not block removal of the battery.

    Ben Doherty - Replica

  33. Rimuovi il gruppo scheda logica dal MacBook Pro.
    • Rimuovi il gruppo scheda logica dal MacBook Pro.

  34. Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano l'altoparlante sinistro al case superiore: Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm
    • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano l'altoparlante sinistro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,9 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 2,6 mm

    • Solleva dal case superiore l'altoparlante sinistro e mettilo da parte.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - Replica

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - Replica

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - Replica

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - Replica

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - Replica

    Yeah, it seems that all this complexity is just about protecting the speakers from the acetone… a different solvent might have saved me a LOT of work, and damage to my speaker connection.

    Peter Kaczkowski - Replica

  35. Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano l'altoparlante destro al case superiore: Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm
    • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano l'altoparlante destro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,9 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 2,6 mm

    • Rimuovi dal MacBook Pro l'altoparlante destro.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - Replica

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - Replica

    I used the flat spudger to loosing the glue underneath the speaker to remove it.

    KC89 - Replica

    My left Speaker makes ugly noise. do I really have to do all the steps or is it possible to just remove the speaker… I guess, it’s necessary.

    Gerd Herzog - Replica

    The speaker has quite a lot of plastic that goes under the board at the top end. There is no option but to remove the covering parts. The notes show which steps can be skipped.

    Simon Anthony -

  36. Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 3,9 mm che fissano la scheda della batteria.
    • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 3,9 mm che fissano la scheda della batteria.

    When rebuilding, be sure not to pin the square trackpad ribbon cable connector under the wide keyboard ribbon cable. It should be over the keyboard ribbon.

    Chapman Harrison - Replica

    I did this step before step 32. Loosening these screws helped me remove the logic board, which was trapped under this thing.

    max - Replica

  37. Il liquido antiadesivo contenuto nel tuo kit può rovinare il rivestimento antiriflesso del display del tuo MacBook Pro.
    • Il liquido antiadesivo contenuto nel tuo kit può rovinare il rivestimento antiriflesso del display del tuo MacBook Pro.

    • Per proteggere il display, disponi un foglio di stagnola tra il display e la tastiera e lascialo lì mentre lavori.

    I was wondering how it could leak. I suppose you could spill it, or flood the battery space with it and it leaks through the trackpad.

    Jer - Replica

    You’re correct. On most models, it’s unlikely to leak unless you use way too much. The foil is a “better-safe-than-sorry” precaution.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    At this point removing the screen is a matter of minutes so to be safe I just removed the display assembly all together.

    Tom - Replica

    In my case it leaked through the trackpad…. I had a transparent film (instead of aluminium) and it did not damage the screen.

    derdietrich - Replica

  38. Con il bordo frontale del MacBook Pro di fronte, solleva il lato destro e infila sotto un solido blocco di espanso o un libro per ottenere una lieve inclinazione. Nei passi successivi, applicherai dell'antiadesivo sul bordo destro (esterno) della batteria. Il sollevamento del lato del MacBook Pro favorirà lo scorrimento dell'antiadesivo sotto la batteria.
    • Con il bordo frontale del MacBook Pro di fronte, solleva il lato destro e infila sotto un solido blocco di espanso o un libro per ottenere una lieve inclinazione.

    • Nei passi successivi, applicherai dell'antiadesivo sul bordo destro (esterno) della batteria. Il sollevamento del lato del MacBook Pro favorirà lo scorrimento dell'antiadesivo sotto la batteria.

  39. Ora che il tuo MacBook Pro è stato preparato perfettamente, è ora di preparare te stesso. L'antiadesivo iFixit contiene acetone, un debole irritante per la pelle e gli occhi.
    • Ora che il tuo MacBook Pro è stato preparato perfettamente, è ora di preparare te stesso.

    • L'antiadesivo iFixit contiene acetone, un debole irritante per la pelle e gli occhi.

    • Indossa occhiali protettivi quando maneggi e applichi l'antiadesivo (gli occhiali protettivi sono inclusi nel tuo kit).

    • Non indossare lenti a contatto senza gli occhiali protettivi.

    • Anche i guanti protettivi sono inclusi nel tuo kit. Se ti preoccupa un'eventuale irritazione alla pelle, mettiti subito i guanti.

    Acetone is not the greatest thing but it’s in common solvents. For example, it’s in nail polish remover. It’s a good idea to do this in a well ventilated area.

    I like how iFixit decides to dye the acetone blue….. it's normally clear.

    Jer - Replica

  40. Tira via il cappuccio nero di gomma dalla tua bottiglia di antiadesivo. Ruota il tappo erogatore per allentarlo o rimuoverlo prima di tagliare la punta del beccuccio. In questo modo la bottiglia non sarà più sigillata e si annullerà ogni differenza di pressione tra interno ed esterno. Se salterai questo passo, l'antiadesivo potrebbe schizzare fuori inaspettatamente mentre tagli il beccuccio.
    • Tira via il cappuccio nero di gomma dalla tua bottiglia di antiadesivo.

    • Ruota il tappo erogatore per allentarlo o rimuoverlo prima di tagliare la punta del beccuccio.

    • In questo modo la bottiglia non sarà più sigillata e si annullerà ogni differenza di pressione tra interno ed esterno. Se salterai questo passo, l'antiadesivo potrebbe schizzare fuori inaspettatamente mentre tagli il beccuccio.

    • Usa delle forbici per tagliare la punta ancora sigillata dell'applicatore.

    • Effettuare il taglio vicino all'estremità più stretta ti darà un controllo migliore perché potrai applicare l'antiadesivo in piccole quantità.

    • Riavvita e chiudi bene il tappo erogatore prima di continuare.

  41. Applica uniformemente delle piccole gocce di antiadesivo sotto il bordo in rilievo della cella della batteria più a destra. Non è necessario usare molto antiadesivo. La bottiglietta contiene oltre due volte la quantità di solvente necessario per rimuovere tutte le celle della batteria.
    • Applica uniformemente delle piccole gocce di antiadesivo sotto il bordo in rilievo della cella della batteria più a destra.

    • Non è necessario usare molto antiadesivo. La bottiglietta contiene oltre due volte la quantità di solvente necessario per rimuovere tutte le celle della batteria.

    • Prima di procedere con il passo successivo, aspetta 2-3 minuti per dare tempo all'antiadesivo di penetrare sotto la cella della batteria.

    You don’t need more than 1mil. It will use capillary action and go along the entire side.

    IMHO, you can start wedging about 20 seconds. The acetone dissolves the adhesive almost immediately, and acetone dries up really fast.

    Jer - Replica

  42. Fai scorrere l'angolo di una scheda di plastica sotto il bordo esterno della cella della batteria. Può essere utile torcere leggermente la scheda per aprire una piccola fessura tra la cella della batteria e il case del MacBook Pro. Fai scorrere la scheda ancora più sotto la cella della batteria per separarla dall'adesivo che la fissa al case superiore del MacBook Pro.
    • Fai scorrere l'angolo di una scheda di plastica sotto il bordo esterno della cella della batteria.

    • Può essere utile torcere leggermente la scheda per aprire una piccola fessura tra la cella della batteria e il case del MacBook Pro.

    • Fai scorrere la scheda ancora più sotto la cella della batteria per separarla dall'adesivo che la fissa al case superiore del MacBook Pro.

  43. Solleva la cella della batteria per separarla dal case superiore del MacBook Pro, ma non cercare di rimuoverla completamente. Lascia la scheda di plastica sotto la cella della batteria per evitare che possa incollarsi di nuovo mentre procedi con il passo successivo.
    • Solleva la cella della batteria per separarla dal case superiore del MacBook Pro, ma non cercare di rimuoverla completamente.

    • Lascia la scheda di plastica sotto la cella della batteria per evitare che possa incollarsi di nuovo mentre procedi con il passo successivo.

  44. Applica uniformemente delle piccole gocce di antiadesivo sotto il bordo in rilievo della cella successiva della batteria. Prima di procedere con il passo successivo, aspetta 2-3 minuti per far penetrare l'antiadesivo sotto la cella della batteria.
    • Applica uniformemente delle piccole gocce di antiadesivo sotto il bordo in rilievo della cella successiva della batteria.

    • Prima di procedere con il passo successivo, aspetta 2-3 minuti per far penetrare l'antiadesivo sotto la cella della batteria.

    You don’t really need to wait 2 to 3 minutes. It starts dissolving right away. In fact if you wait too long, it will dry up again.

    Jer - Replica

  45. Fai scorrere l'angolo di una scheda di plastica sotto la seconda cella della batteria. Spingi la scheda sotto la seconda cella della batteria e falla scorrere da un lato all'altro per separare l'adesivo sottostante. Lascia la scheda di plastica sotto entrambe le celle della batteria (o ripiegale all'esterno) per evitare che possano incollarsi di nuovo mentre procedi con il passo successivo.
    • Fai scorrere l'angolo di una scheda di plastica sotto la seconda cella della batteria.

    • Spingi la scheda sotto la seconda cella della batteria e falla scorrere da un lato all'altro per separare l'adesivo sottostante.

    • Lascia la scheda di plastica sotto entrambe le celle della batteria (o ripiegale all'esterno) per evitare che possano incollarsi di nuovo mentre procedi con il passo successivo.

  46. È ora di invertire i lati. Rimuovi il tuo libro o il tuo blocco di espanso e mettilo sotto il lato opposto del tuo MacBook Pro. Ripeti la procedura descritta nei passi precedenti per separare le due celle della batteria di questo lato: Applica l'antiadesivo lungo il bordo superiore della cella della batteria esterna e attendi 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare.
    • È ora di invertire i lati. Rimuovi il tuo libro o il tuo blocco di espanso e mettilo sotto il lato opposto del tuo MacBook Pro.

    • Ripeti la procedura descritta nei passi precedenti per separare le due celle della batteria di questo lato:

    • Applica l'antiadesivo lungo il bordo superiore della cella della batteria esterna e attendi 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare.

    • Infila l'angolo di una scheda di plastica sotto la cella della batteria e falla scorrere sotto l'intera cella per separarla.

    • Fai la stessa cosa con la cella adiacente.

    • Lascia in posizione la scheda di plastica o ripiega all'esterno le celle per evitare che possano incollarsi di nuovo nel corso dei passi successivi.

  47. Rimuovi il libro o il blocco di espanso e mettilo sotto il bordo posteriore del tuo MacBook Pro, vicino alle cerniere del display. Rimuovi il libro o il blocco di espanso e mettilo sotto il bordo posteriore del tuo MacBook Pro, vicino alle cerniere del display.
    • Rimuovi il libro o il blocco di espanso e mettilo sotto il bordo posteriore del tuo MacBook Pro, vicino alle cerniere del display.

  48. Afferra il connettore della batteria o il bordo superiore del telaio in plastica della batteria e sollevalo lievemente, per esporre il bordo superiore delle due celle centrali della batteria. Afferra il connettore della batteria o il bordo superiore del telaio in plastica della batteria e sollevalo lievemente, per esporre il bordo superiore delle due celle centrali della batteria.
    • Afferra il connettore della batteria o il bordo superiore del telaio in plastica della batteria e sollevalo lievemente, per esporre il bordo superiore delle due celle centrali della batteria.

  49. Mentre sollevi il telaio in plastica della batteria perché non dia fastidio, applica poche gocce di antiadesivo sotto il bordo superiore di ciascuna delle due celle rimaste. Prima di continuare, aspetta 2-3 minuti per far penetrare l'antiadesivo.
    • Mentre sollevi il telaio in plastica della batteria perché non dia fastidio, applica poche gocce di antiadesivo sotto il bordo superiore di ciascuna delle due celle rimaste.

    • Prima di continuare, aspetta 2-3 minuti per far penetrare l'antiadesivo.

    Instead of this, I just went and got safety wire I have, cut about 2ft, and then tucked it under a batter cell and went back and forth, about 5 times, and it cut through the adhesive. Did that for each cell and battery came right out. I didn’t bother removing the old adhesive, no point imo and saved from any liquids in the computer.

    Rick Hulun - Replica

    I put the laptop at about 45º on its edge so the solvent could flow down, and then when doing the separation it was much easier to get the card between the metal plate and the batteries with the laptop case completely vertical. The double sided mounting tape on the battery is really aggressive and the rubberised compound quite annoying to remove the last traces off the metal plate. You will need a generous amount of solvent on a cleaning cloth or paper to remove the last of the adhesive.

    AES - Replica

    One thng that I have never seen mentioned is that when you remove the two cenre cells it is quite easy to lift the metal plate that sits between the trackpad and the battery. My plate ame right off and was attached to the battery. Luckily I didn’t bend it very much but it would have been nice to know that this was a distinct possibility. The adhesive between this trackpad cover plate (thin stainless steeland the battery is a !&&* of a lot stronger that the adhesive between the plate and the body of the Macbook. It amazes me that I have never seen this mentioned in any written or video guide so be careful

    Peter Newman - Replica

  50. Sempre tenendo sollevato il telaio in plastica perché non dia fastidio, spingi un angolo della tua scheda di plastica sotto il bordo esterno della prima delle celle centrali della batteria. Non far leva sulla parte del bordo più vicina al connettore della batteria per non rischiare di danneggiare il cavo a nastro della tastiera. Sotto il centro delle celle della batteria, un sottile strato di metallo protegge il trackpad. Fai leva solo sotto la batteria; lascia al suo posto il supporto di metallo.
    • Sempre tenendo sollevato il telaio in plastica perché non dia fastidio, spingi un angolo della tua scheda di plastica sotto il bordo esterno della prima delle celle centrali della batteria.

    • Non far leva sulla parte del bordo più vicina al connettore della batteria per non rischiare di danneggiare il cavo a nastro della tastiera.

    • Sotto il centro delle celle della batteria, un sottile strato di metallo protegge il trackpad. Fai leva solo sotto la batteria; lascia al suo posto il supporto di metallo.

    • Fai scorrere la tua scheda sotto tutta la cella e lasciala in posizione per evitare che la cella stessa possa incollarsi di nuovo.