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Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire la batteria del tuo smartphone Nexus 6P. In fase di rimontaggio applica del nuovo adesivo dove necessario.

Se la tua batteria è gonfia, prendi adeguate precauzioni.

  1. Si può rimuovere la cover posteriore con un iOpener secondo le istruzioni di questa guida ma è un'operazione lunga e difficile. Raccomandiamo una pistola termica o un attrezzo simile. L'adesivo del Nexus 6P è molto forte e la cover in vetro e di plastica sul retro si rompe o si deforma molto facilmente nel corso di questa riparazione. Con uno strumento estrazione SIM tira fuori e rimuovi il vassoio della scheda SIM. Usa un iOpener per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il piccolo coperchio di plastica sulla parte inferiore del telefono.
    • Si può rimuovere la cover posteriore con un iOpener secondo le istruzioni di questa guida ma è un'operazione lunga e difficile. Raccomandiamo una pistola termica o un attrezzo simile. L'adesivo del Nexus 6P è molto forte e la cover in vetro e di plastica sul retro si rompe o si deforma molto facilmente nel corso di questa riparazione.

    • Con uno strumento estrazione SIM tira fuori e rimuovi il vassoio della scheda SIM.

    • Usa un iOpener per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il piccolo coperchio di plastica sulla parte inferiore del telefono.

    For the heat gun users — any approximate temperature, and distance from phone, to not damage it?

    Kamal - Replica

    Hi Kamal,

    my advice is the be very, very gentle with a heat gun. Especially the small plastic cover at the bottom end deforms within seconds. Try the lowest heat you can, with a good distance to the cover. Then try to remove the cover. If it doesn’t go off, lower the distance of the heat gun to the phone and try again and so on. I recommend to rather pry a little bit more than to use to much heat. If the cover deforms you’ll need a new one.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    Is their a particular time i should have my heat gun on it like for ex: 10 secs

    PlayStation Studios - Replica

    Hi,

    there’s no particular time but I advise you to go only for a couple of seconds and then try to remove the plastic cover. If you can’t manage to remove it, repeat the heat gun process and so on. Under strong heat the plastic cover deforms very fast and is not usable anymore.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    Hi,

    I used a hair dryer (exhaust air about 60°C) instead of a heat gun: this temperature was sufficient to soften the glue. The plastic and glass cover could be removed without damage.

    Daniel Demuth - Replica

    The Ifixit SIM removal tool is a bit rough for the 6P SIM eject opening I suggest a small paper clip and its easier for aged fingers to use.

    Terry Ess - Replica

    The IOpener may need to be applied more than once in cold weather. Even for a first time repairer it is possible to remove the small lower rear cover without damage.

    Terry Ess - Replica

  2. Il coltello è davvero affilato. Stai attento a non tagliarti né danneggiare il telefono. Inserisci un coltello fra il telefono e il coperchio di plastica. Solleva il coperchio finché riesci ad inserirci un plettro di apertura. Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura sotto il coperchio di plastica per tagliare l'adesivo.
    • Il coltello è davvero affilato. Stai attento a non tagliarti né danneggiare il telefono.

    • Inserisci un coltello fra il telefono e il coperchio di plastica. Solleva il coperchio finché riesci ad inserirci un plettro di apertura.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura sotto il coperchio di plastica per tagliare l'adesivo.

    How I did it was to heat the plastic to around 65C (150F) with a hair dryer, then managed to get one of my metal prying tools in and under the edge to pull it up.

    Michael Lerro - Replica

    Request to give some specification/link to the knife used in this process. I dont want to buy a knife too thick for the job. Thanks in advance.

    onkararadhye - Replica

    Hi onkararadhye,

    the knife used in this process was from the Technician's Razor Set in our shop.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    The Ifixit knife has a curved sharp edge. I used this edge in the middle of the outer long side of the lower cover and pushed it straight down. The natural curve in the now softened plastic allowed it to buckle/bend a little further. I then slowly rolled the top edge of the knife out and away from the phone. There was then sufficient gap to insert a Pick. Heat it again with the IOpener and then slide the Pick further in and along from end to end.

    Terry Ess - Replica

  3. Usa un iOpener per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il coperchio di vetro sulla parte superiore del telefono. Inserisci un coltello fra il telefono e il coperchio di vetro. Solleva il coperchio finché riesci ad inserirci un plettro di apertura.
    • Usa un iOpener per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il coperchio di vetro sulla parte superiore del telefono.

    • Inserisci un coltello fra il telefono e il coperchio di vetro. Solleva il coperchio finché riesci ad inserirci un plettro di apertura.

    Used a fan on high heat. Worked great.

    Tilen Travnik - Replica

    A heating pad works well for these steps

    Russell Sloan - Replica

    This has to be the hardest part. I really did not want to damage the glass. My phone has had a rough life and there is some minor damage despite having a double layer cover. I decided to prise the glass off from the end opposite from the camera after many unsuccessful attempts from near the middle. With the knife I was able to scrape the metal edge near the end of the glass cover - keep the blade facing out. With the metal out of the way the knife tip was able to get under the glass followed by a Pick. I heated it all up again with the IOpener heat tube. Using reflected light keep an eye on the bend in the glass. If you can see a bend then slow down and let the glue separate. The reward for patience is unbroken glass.

    Terry Ess - Replica

  4. Il vetro può rompersi. Indossa degli occhiali e dei guanti protettivi. Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura sotto il coperchio di vetro per tagliare l'adesivo sottostante. Solleva il coperchio di vetro.
    • Il vetro può rompersi. Indossa degli occhiali e dei guanti protettivi.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura sotto il coperchio di vetro per tagliare l'adesivo sottostante.

    • Solleva il coperchio di vetro.

    I had a really hard time getting under the glass using the iOpener. I just don’t think it got hot enough to really loosen up the adhesive. So, I got my wife’s hair dryer and used that. I put it on the highest heat and held it to the glass for a couple minutes. That loosened it up pretty well and I was able to get enough space to put in a prying pick. Once I got one of those in it was pretty easy.

    Davin Studer - Replica

    The way I did this bit was to heat the glass up to around 70C (160F) with a hair dryer, then use a razor blade to get in under the glass, then used a playing card and pushed that along underneath the glass to seperate the glass from the body. I started with my razor blade at the curved edge of the glass on the side of the phone, rather than at the straight edge at the top as they show here, because it was a bit easier for me.

    Nothing else in my toolkit had a fine enough edge to get in under that glass except for a razor blade. The gap is very small.

    Michael Lerro - Replica

    The good news is that my phone works fine. And it now has some battle scars that make it look like I repaired it. Let’s be honest: bragging rights are half the reason we tried this instead of buying a new phone anyway. My camera and flash still work, though the latter needed its lens glued separately.

    The bad news is that I broke my glass. I started from the corner away from the camera, and about halfway along the width of the phone, the glass utterly shattered. It stayed together, so its coating worked. I used some scotch tape to further control the shards, and i slid a small flathead along under the top and bottom edges to scrape the glue. I think that would have been my technique in the first place if i had x-ray vision. I also would have started camera-side.

    I think my mistake was not maintaining heat while prying. The glass started hot, but when it broke it was barely warm to the touch. I think If I had kept it hot, it would have been more flexible.

    Best of luck, everybody.

    Seth Battin - Replica

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  6. Svita le sei viti a croce Phillips #00. Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere eventuali sticker presenti sulle teste delle viti per avere una migliore presa con il cacciavite. Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere eventuali sticker presenti sulle teste delle viti per avere una migliore presa con il cacciavite.
    • Svita le sei viti a croce Phillips #00.

    • Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere eventuali sticker presenti sulle teste delle viti per avere una migliore presa con il cacciavite.

  7. Inserisci un coltello fra la cover posteriore metallica e il vetro frontale per creare una fessura. Inserisci un plettro di apertura in questa fessura e fallo scorrere verso l'angolo superiore destro. Il coltello è davvero affilato, stai attento a non tagliarti né danneggiare il tuo telefono. Inserisci un secondo plettro di apertura e fallo scorrere verso l'angolo superiore sinistro.
    • Inserisci un coltello fra la cover posteriore metallica e il vetro frontale per creare una fessura. Inserisci un plettro di apertura in questa fessura e fallo scorrere verso l'angolo superiore destro.

    • Il coltello è davvero affilato, stai attento a non tagliarti né danneggiare il tuo telefono.

    • Inserisci un secondo plettro di apertura e fallo scorrere verso l'angolo superiore sinistro.

    • Fai scorrere i plettri lungo i lati per sganciare le clip di plastica che fissano il case posteriore al telaio centrale.

    • Rimuovi la cover posteriore.

    There is a black plastic band around the front glass. So stick the razor between the metal back and outside of the black plastic that is around the front glass. If you look closely at the first picture you can see the black plastic strip outside of the front glass. If you stick it between the black plastic and screen you could leave the mid frame in the metal case and only lift up the the glass and screen.

    igolten - Replica

    Definitely try to get the knife as close as possible to the aluminum body. It will spare you damage to the plastic band… wish I would have read the comment before trying this myself… ah… and don’t get tricked by a possible space between the display and the plastic band it looks tempting to put the knife in there however that will possibly damage the plastic band. That’s where I thought I could get in between the display and the body and did damage my plastic seal. Btw, I got my device open from the left side away from the power and volume buttons.

    Marcel Duda - Replica

    I couldn’t even find room for the knife, ended up using a suction cup to lift the bottom left corner enough to get a plastic shim in. Worked around from there. Damaged a good deal of the plastic around the edge trying to get the knife in—would recommend just using a suction cup.

    Alexander Haase - Replica

    Blow dry the viser and stick an exacto knife under it. Gently pry. The bottom plastic is the same process, it is more difficult.

    Easyway to push the unibody/screen apart is pushing hard on the fingerprint reader. No bending/scraping. Going between the screen and body with a pick or blade is stupid.

    If you DONT put the 5 screws back in, it makes future servicing easy. The device has dovetail joints that will snap into place and still hold everything together. The phone is easy to bend/shatter anyways. This kind of gives you a removable back.

    Yazan Sakran - Replica

    That is a terrific suggestion and it’s what I’ve done. Put the cover back on and guess what, those six screws aren’t even needed.

    In fact, thank you all for your input. (I echo Alexander Haase above; there’s no real need for a blade when separating the front.)

    Also, am I the only one who found the “iOpener approach” more effective than using a hairdryer? I don’t have an iOpener and I used one of those blue gel ice/hot packs. Simply placing it on the target area may indeed not be enough, but I covered my hand with a towel and kept it firmly pressed against the surface for a couple minutes. The visor then came off very smoothly on prying, with all the adhesive stuck only on one side.

    Never was there the slightest chance of either part cracking or warping. The operation is far less scary than (and certainly not as Difficult as) the guide would suggest.

    Ω Gsazraetr -

    I had a lot of trouble with this, and the trick that worked for me was to do something similar to Alexander Haase above (minus the suction cup, I couldn’t get my suction cup to stick well enough to pull up the glass enough for a gap).

    The bottom left corner of the phone - at least on mine - seemed to have the biggest gap and be most the ameanable to prying open. I used a razor blade and pushed it in at the very corner (as close as you can to the aluminium, so that you don’t wreck the plastic band around the glass), then jimmied up the glass with the blade until there was a gap. I placed a plastic prying tool / guitar pick in the gap, and pushed it around the edges to seperate the clips.

    Michael Lerro - Replica

    I tried to use the suction cup method, but ended up separating the glass from the phone. The glass cracked and now my screen is broken.

    Louis Kruger - Replica

    Well I wish this guy had been a little more detailed in where to pry and how the friggen screen just separates and the fact you need to slide the picks pointing more down than in or your going to spilt the screen apart. Now I have a brand new broken phone with custom shattered screen, a brand new replacement battery and a bunch of overpriced brand new ifixit tools I can use as paper weights. Thanks guys.

    loki - Replica

  8. Svita la vite Phillips #00. Rimuovi la piastra metallica con delle pinzette.
    • Svita la vite Phillips #00.

    • Rimuovi la piastra metallica con delle pinzette.

    While I performed this step, the three ribbon cables from the next step came up attached to the metal plate.

    Troy Gaddis - Replica

    As a head’s up the metal plate needs to be removed from the left side first because it does slide under another piece of metal close to the fingerprint scanner. Upon reassembly insert the right side first and then push the left side down. You will know if you have it in correctly if the plate cannot move freely if the screw is in even a little bit.

    Michael Stefanchik - Replica

    There is glue on the underside of metal plate that made it a little harder to pull up the plate than we expected. The flex cables did not come up with the plate, but it was a surprise.

    Catherine Adams - Replica

  9. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere i tre cavi flessibili. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere i tre cavi flessibili. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere i tre cavi flessibili.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere i tre cavi flessibili.

    While I was performing this, the three flat ribbon cables were stuck to the metal plate and came up with it. Watch out for that possibility.

    Troy Gaddis - Replica

  10. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo di interconnessione dalla scheda figlia. Usa un iOpener per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto la batteria.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo di interconnessione dalla scheda figlia.

    • Usa un iOpener per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto la batteria.

  11. Attenzione: non inserire lo spudger o la scheda di plastica troppo in profondità sotto la batteria. Il cavo del display si trova sotto la batteria. Vedi sotto, al prossimo passo, dove si trova il cavo. Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger fino al notch e fallo delicatamente scorrere lungo il bordo per tagliare l'adesivo.
    • Attenzione: non inserire lo spudger o la scheda di plastica troppo in profondità sotto la batteria. Il cavo del display si trova sotto la batteria.

    • Vedi sotto, al prossimo passo, dove si trova il cavo.

    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger fino al notch e fallo delicatamente scorrere lungo il bordo per tagliare l'adesivo.

    • Usa una scheda di plastica per tagliare l'adesivo residuo sul lato sinistro sotto la batteria.

    The display cable seems to be completely attached to backing, not free to move at all. The warning made me think it would be floating between the battery and the back of the battery area, however this is not the case. You shouldn’t need to worry too much about it, but you also don’t need to stick anything that deep since the adhesive isn’t where the display cable is. You can see where the adhesive is in the picture for the next step. It’s the black sort of rectangular-ish pad to the right of the display cable. There’s a second taller adhesive pad on the left side of the display cable which must’ve stuck to the battery when they removed it for this guide. When I took the battery out both of the adhesive pads stayed attached to the battery.

    Cory Miller - Replica

    Thanks, Cory. This is exactly what we saw, too!

    Catherine Adams -

    How is the new battery secured to the phone? Is there enough adhesive left after removing the old battery to make it stay in place?

    Carolina hiker - Replica

    My battery came up pretty easily:

    I heated the battery to around 60C (145F), then used a plastic prying tool and an old credit card and pushed them in to cut / seperate the glue. Then just pulled the battery up. Be aware of the display cable underneath and where it is (see picks below), but in my case it was fine.

    For the replacement battery the existing black adhesive sticker things in the phone were enough (if yours come up stuck to the battery, pull them off and put them back into the phone), I just heated it up a bit again after inserting the new battery to reglue it back down.

    Michael Lerro - Replica

    The glass top cover was shattered, but otherwise, worked like charm!

    Samudra Banerjee - Replica

  12. Rimuovi la batteria.
    • Rimuovi la batteria.

    You’re gonna want a heat gun and a scalpel for this one, for sure. All steps in this guide are accurate. I followed it, and my new battery fires up my old device just fine.

    As far as new adhesive is concerned, I forgot to bring home double sided tape, so I cheated and used super glue to secure the new battery to the chassis.

    wdm613 - Replica

    Unlike the phone pictured above my (international) phone had another larger glue strip on the other side of the display cable. The rather soft battery was a little more damaged after removal. I had trouble aligning the battery connector after putting locating the battery in its recess. I ended up connecting the battery first. The result was a very slight buckle in the flat ribbon. I put a small patch of sticky tape in the back cover above the buckle in case there was some movement or a sharp edge. I left out the screws ( I think I might be able to remove the rear cover with just a couple of Picks now. The small scar near the rear glass is now hidden by my much more damaged cover. ?? Will I do this again? Probably not to this phone as the OS is old and neglected by Google. I really thought that I’d get more updates out of them.

    Terry Ess - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso e applica del nuovo adesivo dove necessario.

Dopo aver completato questa guida, calibra la batteria appena installata.

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Dominik Schnabelrauch

Membro da: 23/11/2016

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In case anyone is wondering, I was able to get the two small back covers to reassemble without using new adhesive. I didn’t have any on hand so I just used a heat gun to warm the adhesive that was left over and firmly held them in place. So far it seems to be holding well.

Vince Cipriani - Replica

Adhesive? I’m wondering what kind of adhesive to use for reassembly?

antoine courtemanche - Replica

Didn’t need any additional adhesive and the iopener worked fine for both loosening adhesive for disassembly and getting it sticky again for reassembly.. Managed not to break the glass camera cover!

antoine courtemanche -

any tips on using the iOpener for the top glass? It dosen’t seem to be helping me at all. :(

Ellison Gregg - Replica

These were great instructions, but have to admit this was quite a hair-raising process because of the amount of heat that was required to soften the adhesive and the amount of force needed to pry things apart. Luckily, I have a digital hot air source (Sparkfun 303D) used for surface mount electronics. The safe temperature ended up being about 200 F. If I did it again would be much easier because I know the glass piece at the top is not as fragile as I thought. So, heat gun, definitely. iOpener would be next to useless, especially to loosen under battery. But be careful not to concentrate the heat and melt plastic or make glass crack. Adhesive under battery definitely reusable, easy to peel off old battery. Go slow with the whole process and it will be successful!

Andris Vizulis - Replica

Thanks so much! I also have the same hot air rework station and that will help me a lot.

Benjamin Jackson-Reynolds -

I did mine today. Besides a couple scuffs that are covered by a bumper it is like new again.

My tips: when removing the back glued on parts start at the ends, not middle and use a lot of heat. Mine came up really easy once it got to temp. The case was harder than if thought. I started near the lower speaker. The obvious looking place to pry up is wrong, the outside case lip is very thin and it's easy to try digging up the screen, not the case. Getting the battery out just required a bit more force than I would have thought. But it's all back together and works like new again.

Ed Willson - Replica

Thanks! Wasn’t too bad of a process, but I was expecting the worst. Getting the battery out was the hardest part in my opinion because it was hard to get the glue in that area soft enough.

Tyler Young - Replica

I am happy to report that I was able to do this repair successfully. The hardest parts were removing the glass back (covering the camera) and prying the outside case away from the rest of the phone unit. I definitely purchased the “Technicians Razor Set'“ and am glad I did. I used all the tools listed in the guide (most of which I had earlier from a larger kit). I used the blade that is a rectangle that has a sloping / graded end so that it is real thin at the point of entry and allows you to pry a bit. I tried with the standard “exacto-knife” type end but it didn’t seem to do the trick for me plus I felt it was dangerous to push with force with something that sharp.

Use a heat gun. If you have a hair dryer that gets pretty hot that might work as well. A cheap heat gun makes this SOO much easier. I also happened to have one of those laser surface temperature readers and got the glass up to about 180 Fahrenheit which works well. I got the plastic bottom piece to about 150 to get the glue underneath gooey.

Troy Gaddis - Replica

Great guide; detailed and helpful! Just replaced the battery! Great pictures, too, as it really helped me understand the layout of the internals. I bought the battery from ifixit and the essential electronics toolkit that they sell as well. I honestly don’t think I could have done it without that essential electronics toolkit. I certainly don’t have some of those bits and tools on hand.

Good:

I was able to successfully remove the top part (the glass part) without breaking it. I did reuse it again. I noticed the tiny foam circle that surrounds the camera. If you purchase a replacement glass top part like I did (for the possibility of breaking it when removing it), you may find that the foam circle is a little offset. You also may need to remove the existing foam circle if your replacement glass top has one already attached.

Bad:

The battery’s adhesive is very strong. You will have to work hard to pry the battery off, so don’t panic. Keep at it, little by little.

Michael Sokol - Replica

Successfully completed the battery replacement guide. We were able to complete the entire replacement process with the iOpener, but it was slow. We used an infrared thermometer to measure the surface temperature of the iOpener and the phone, to ensure we were reaching an optimal temperature (about 150F for the plastic cover, 180F for the glass cover, and 145F for the battery).

The battery was slow to remove due to adhesive; be patient. We bent the battery slightly in the process. The image in the guide showing the phone with the battery removed (the image in Step 11) shows a black glue strip to the right of the display cable. When we removed the battery, we saw two black glue strips; one on each side of the display cable.

Catherine Adams - Replica

Great guide! I was sure to ruin something at step 6, but everything works perfectly fine. Great guide!

I only have the Pro Tech Toolkit, and only needed a knife. For the iOpener i had a plastic bag in boiling water. It seemed to do the trick for me (filled up a bag with some water an put it in a kettle with more water. When it boiled, wipe off water from the outside of the plastic bag.

Knut Berg-Domås - Replica

Ich habe meinen Akku gestern getauscht, war eigentlich nicht besonders schwierig mit dieser tollen Anleitung.

Wichtig ist den Kleber mit Wärme zu lösen, dann geht’s recht einfach. Habe dafür einen Heißluftfön auf kleiner Stufe genommen.

Beim “heraushebeln” der Platine muß man schauen wo man die Klinge einführt, ich war anfangs einen Millimeter zu weit innen und somit ließ es sich schlecht hebeln weil ich quasi im Platinenteil war.

Beim Zusammenbau habe ich die beiden Abdeckungen oben und unten nur wieder festgedrückt und dann nochmal ein wenig erwärmt, dadurch mußte ich keinen neuen Kleber verwenden.

Dirk Heimann - Replica

I managed to damage both the top and bottom back pieces (steps 2 & 4). Fortunately, Amazon sells replacements. Got them on order now. The rest of the repair went fine, though. 6P is reassembled and charging.

Steve DeGroof - Replica

Thank you for the excellent guide.

Battery replacement took 3/4 of an hour. Most of this time was waiting patiently for the adhesive to soften on the glass and plastic screw covers. I used my Aoyue 2738 rework station hot air gun at 130 C, this gave me a surface temp of 180 F by my Fluke 52 temp probe. Not having the iFixIt Technician’s razor kit, I resorted to a #11 surgical blade that I normally use for mold making; which worked well enough, apart from my inept handling on the plastic screw cover. BUY the Technicians razor kit.

Also, there is a pry point for the battery directly beneath the buttons that the spudger fits into perfectly I used this to create a gap to allow the hot air to soften the adhesive holding the battery in place. I found that the Jimmy tool worked very well as a lever to hold the battery away from the case; which allowed the hot air to separate the old battery from the adhesive. This obviated inserting any tool deeply enough to damage the cable running beneath the battery.

jms - Replica

Guide excellent

Il faut 1 heure avec un peu de matériels (spatule, cuter). J’ai utilisé un sèche cheveux pas trop chaud pour chauffer la colle. Pour la batterie, décollage délicatement au cutter pour soulever le bon côté, et petit écarteur pour maintenir. Ensuite avec une spatule longue et fine, j’ai pu facilement découper la colle en tension. Je passe sur les connecteurs de nappe, c’est démontage classique.

Franck MELS - Replica

Comment à tu réussi à te procurer la batterie sachant que Ixifit ne peut pas l’envoyer en Europe?

Thomas Jousselin -

Is that any place I can get help to replace my battery ?I have an Nexus 6P. Help !!

Connie

connie8069 - Replica

I got mine from Amazon, and the price wasn’t too bad. I just replaced mine, and this one came with tools which helped. I used a hair drier instead of an iopener or heat gun, and it worked okay enough. Took about an hour in total.

David -

In a lot of ways I wish I would have read all the instructions and then the comments before even attempting this. Things would have been a lot easier. I only read maybe 1 step ahead while performing this, and the battery itself was a real issue for me. I ended up ripping apart the covering on the old battery, and while I got it out, smelled a bit odd, so I did the rest outside. I also somewhat recommend discharging the battery entirely before doing this. I found the device was easy to turn on during the process, and if the battery had further issues, it’d be less dangerous than being fully charged.

David - Replica

Well, that wasn’t fun.

The hardest parts BY FAR are the camera glass and bottom cover. There was a moment there where I was considering breaking the glass and just buying a new part, but eventually I got it to let go. The problem is that the glass and metal are VERY tight together, so I had to use a little precision razor to scrape away some of the metal in order to fit it in behind the glass to push it out.

The bottom section came out with some patience, but I ended up warping it with the heat gun trying to melt the glue again. That said, this is the first time I’ve used a heat gun, so YMMV.

The battery we got had a cable that wasn’t quite up to spec, so it’s probably slightly crimped. So far it doesn’t seem to be a problem.

The instructions are definitely helpful, though. Good luck!

pocketdrummer - Replica

Done :-).

The instructions were to the point and helped me to replace the battery.

NB: On my device removing the bottom cover and the camera cover was actually quite smooth. With a little help from my hair dryer I could soften the adhesive enough to carefully remote both covers.

NB2: The two hardest parts for me were to pry the alluminum back cover from the display and removing the battery as the adhesive keeping it in place was quite reilient ;-) (I used an old laminated card which worked well for the purpose of seperating the battery from the device). In the process of getting the knife beween the display glass and the cover I slightly damaged the display seal. Nothing big but I could have avoided it I think if I would have known about the seal.

Many thanks for the instructions… I am curious if my Nexus will last another 3 years now.

Marcel Duda - Replica

Done.

I wanted to order the battery via iFixit, but as I am living in France the transport costs were too high. I ordered a simular battery at Amazone France.

The instruction are very clear.

Arie van Boxel - Replica

My Nexus 6p battery had died on me some time ago while on a 2yr assignment, and while in Thailand I bought a Hauwei Nova 2i as areplacement, which worked fine for Google Fi for the rest of my assignement in India. However, once I returned Home back to USA the Google FI SIM would not work. I bought a Battery for the old Nexus 6p and replaced it today, no problems. I used a portable oven to heat up the glass and the plastic piece enough to gently pry the Glass and the plastic cover off. The battery came off pretty easily by using a plastic pry bar and pushing a guitar pick under the battery at different points while continuing with even pressure of the pry bar. it does help to heat up the whole phone a little to remove the battery.

fscotthall - Replica

I found the hardest part was getting the camera glass off, or at least hot enough to make it come off easier. I did not have a heat gun, and using the iOpener didn’t seem to heat it up enough (worked fine for heating the bottom panel). I tried a hair dryer, but I may have not heated it up long enough. I unfortunately broke my camera glass, but was able to purchase new glass, 2 for 9 dollars (extra one just in case). One other thing I noticed, be sure your using a very thin razor blade. I have a kit that had various thickness of blades, and I wasn’t paying attention to that and caused nicks in the back panel where I was was trying to wedge the glass away from the back panel. Using a thinner blade worked out a lot better. After that, everything was pretty easy, When putting back together, suggest before you replace back panel, make sure everything turns back on as expected, then put it back on. Save you from having to take apart again if a connector wasn’t fully connected.

MoniQx4 - Replica

Just completed this repair tonight, great guide per usual iFixit standards! Used a hot pad filled with beans in leu of an iOpener, this worked well for removing the bottom plastic, but wasn’t enough heat for the glass. As noted in many other comments, a heat gun is the way to go, though don’t have one, so used a hair dryer instead. The glass needs a lot of heat to lift freely, and much patience. While trying to pry up the glass too soon, I did crack the glass, would recommend starting to pry the glass from the non camera side (right side) first. If you crack the glass there, it won’t interfere with the camera. Was able to reheat all adhesive to put all the pieces back together, even the cracked glass - which is hidden by the case :)

Blake Anderson - Replica

in addition to these steps and tools shown here, which worked great, I also used a video from repair universe which shows step by step and was also helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEQbQPAU...

Thanks ifixit!

Jared Meadows - Replica

I bought the 6p battery from Ifixit. After spending a good 30 minutes tearing the phone apart. I discovered their replacement battery is about an 1/8” taller than OEM and WILL NOT FIT in the phone Period. How can sell your customers a battery that won’t fit??????? I wrote them this morning about this issue and still waiting on a reply.

Carolina hiker - Replica

Easy and quick in under 30 minutes. Though, I did get a bad battery. It arrived and when connected was at 4% so I charged. It went to 100% real fast in under 1 hour. I then sat it down untouched and in the morning it was dead. So I plugged it into the charger in the morning, the same thing - it charge real fast. When I went to start the phone it started up, the screen came on then the battery went from 100% to 0% then shut down within seconds.

Brian Krecik - Replica

I as well, did not use adhesive other than what was left over from disassembly. I used a heat gun as suggested and a infrared thermometer to about 200 f to come apart, and back together for softening the old adhesive. All went well and I am now doing the initial charge to calibrate. Thanks to all that contributed, especially the author!

LeoJr Lawver - Replica

Good instructions. Just remember to push the knife blade in right next to the aluminium case or you will damage the plastic surround. The obvious place to stick the blade in is not the correct spot! Look carefully.

My kit came with a new glass camera cover but I could have reused the old one. The glue would have held.

I used a heat gun to heat things a bit but I am well experienced as to what it too much heat.

frostyfriday - Replica

My first time doing something like this so thank god for this guide. Despite it being labeled “Difficult” I wouldn’t exactly say its difficult so much as annoying because of all the adhesives and how tight the covers & camera glass is. Honestly if anything I would say buy yourself a replacement at least for the camera glass ahead of time. Its not expensive and its very likely you’re going to break the glass during removal to get at the screws underneath. Otherwise a $20 tool kit from iFixit and $20 in parts off of Amazon saved me from having to buy a new phone because of a bad battery. Worth the investment and the fight for our right to repair.

Ronald Festa - Replica

This turned out to be a lesson in futility. My Nexus 6P was operational before this protracted task and now it is completely dead - either with the new or old battery in place. I managed to get the glass and plastic covers off after finally resorting to my wife’s hair dryer since the iFixit heating device didn’t seem to do much. I had to use a playing card to help finally get them off since the flat picks had got stuck in the box and I originally thought they had left them out. The razor knife seemed to damage the edges of the case when trying to pry off the back. Once I got it off, the battery wasn’t that difficult to get out with a card underneath cutting the glue without heat. All told, about 2 hours of frustration getting to this point. I then placed the new battery in. reconnected the cables, put the back the cover on and… nada. Even the old (was working) battery wouldn’t power it. All cables rechecked 3 times and nothing amiss. Phone will not power at all now.

Robert Miller - Replica

Great guide, helped my a lot. I used a hair dryer for warming the adhesive. A credit cartd (or an old gift card in my case) is the best tool for removing the battery. I had a new back cover and that was good, because the old parts suffered quite a bit in the process.

noreply - Replica

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