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Introduzione

Segui questa guida per sostituire il pacco batterie del Microsoft Surface Pro.

  1. Usa un iOpener riscaldato o una pistola termica per scaldare gli angoli dello schermo e allentare l'adesivo.
    • Usa un iOpener riscaldato o una pistola termica per scaldare gli angoli dello schermo e allentare l'adesivo.

    • Se stai usando un iOpener possono servire più cicli di riscaldamento e applicazione per ammorbidire l'adesivo. Ogni volta, lascia appoggiato l'iOpener per almeno un minuto per ammorbidire l'adesivo prima di riscaldare nuovamente.

  2. Attacca una ventosa il più vicino possibile all'estremità dello schermo. Usa la ventosa per sollevare il lato dello schermo quanto basta a poter inserire uno strumento di apertura sotto il lato.
    • Attacca una ventosa il più vicino possibile all'estremità dello schermo.

    • Usa la ventosa per sollevare il lato dello schermo quanto basta a poter inserire uno strumento di apertura sotto il lato.

    • Fai scorrere lo strumento di apertura lungo tutto il perimetro dello schermo per rimuovere l'adesivo.

    • Non inserire lo strumento di apertura più in profondità del bordo, altrimenti potresti danneggiare irreparabilmente lo schermo.

    • Fai molta attenzione e agisci lentamente durante queste operazioni. Lo schermo è fragile e si può frantumare se applichi troppa forza. Se lo strumento ti sembra bloccato, applica dell'altro calore per ammorbidire l'adesivo.

  3. Cominciando dal lato superiore, alza lo schermo un po'. Se avverti una qualche resistenza, usa il calore e uno strumento di apertura per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente. Prima di rimuovere completamente lo schermo, scollega i tre cavi dello stesso.
    • Cominciando dal lato superiore, alza lo schermo un po'. Se avverti una qualche resistenza, usa il calore e uno strumento di apertura per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente.

    • Prima di rimuovere completamente lo schermo, scollega i tre cavi dello stesso.

    【注意!!】 画面ガラスの下部の接着がデジタイザーのフレキケーブルとも接着されています。

    両面接着剤の温めが甘かったり、無理に剥がそうとするとデジタイザーのフレキケーブルが切れますので丁寧に作業を行って下さい。

    Tacky Sato - Replica

  4. Rimuovi lo schermo.
    • Rimuovi lo schermo.

  5. Usando un cacciavite Torx T3, rimuovi le 23 viti da sotto la cornice del display del Surface Pro. Usando un cacciavite Torx T3, rimuovi le 23 viti da sotto la cornice del display del Surface Pro.
    • Usando un cacciavite Torx T3, rimuovi le 23 viti da sotto la cornice del display del Surface Pro.

    My Surface Pro 1 needs a T4 screwdriver for these screws.

    Sheryl Canter - Replica

  6. Rimuovi la cornice dello schermo dal Surface Pro.
    • Rimuovi la cornice dello schermo dal Surface Pro.

  7. Svita 6 viti T5 dai 2 supporti su entrambi i lati della cornice. Svita 23 viti T2 dai 2 supporti.
    • Svita 6 viti T5 dai 2 supporti su entrambi i lati della cornice.

    • Svita 23 viti T2 dai 2 supporti.

    On my Surface Pro 1, the screws labeled as T5 are T3.

    Sheryl Canter - Replica

  8. Rimuovi entrambi i supporti in metallo dalla cornice.
    • Rimuovi entrambi i supporti in metallo dalla cornice.

  9. Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere delicatamente gli otto cavi a nastro dalle loro prese. Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere delicatamente gli otto cavi a nastro dalle loro prese.
    • Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere delicatamente gli otto cavi a nastro dalle loro prese.

    There’s an additional black ribbon cable (top center in picture) that needs to be unplugged. Also, open the release for the cables before trying to pull them out.

    Sheryl Canter - Replica

  10. Svita le 17 viti Torx T5 sulla scheda madre. Svita le 17 viti Torx T5 sulla scheda madre.
    • Svita le 17 viti Torx T5 sulla scheda madre.

    There’s an 18th screw that needs to be removed. It’s in the upper right corner of the picture, but not circled.

    Sheryl Canter - Replica

    The 6 screws holding the fans in place should not be removed (3 on each side - heads look different). They just attach the fans to the motherboard.

    Sheryl Canter - Replica

    One of these screws is thinner than the others, which I didn’t notice until I started screwing them back in.

    Sheryl Canter - Replica

  11. Rimosse tutte le viti, solleva delicatamente la scheda con le mani per rimuoverla.
    • Rimosse tutte le viti, solleva delicatamente la scheda con le mani per rimuoverla.

  12. Rimuovi con le mani l'intero pacco batterie facendo sufficiente forza per staccarla dall'adesivo che tiene ferme le celle. Rimuovi con le mani l'intero pacco batterie facendo sufficiente forza per staccarla dall'adesivo che tiene ferme le celle.
    • Rimuovi con le mani l'intero pacco batterie facendo sufficiente forza per staccarla dall'adesivo che tiene ferme le celle.

    This is possible to do. The worst part are all the tiny screws and glue to get the cover and touch screen off. I bought the battery for $45 off of Ebay and a set of four Torx screw drivers for $5.

    Tips:

    check the 12V coming into the main board after the cover is off. You will see a red boot light on the main board flash for a sec. You should hear the tiny fans going.

    Use an external monitor and cables to check the per and boot before putting it all back together.

    Sal V - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi di questa guida al contrario.

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Membro da: 09/10/2013

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Thank you for that awesome guide!

Do you know where can i buy a battery for surface pro 2??

Thanks

John john - Replica

I am also trying to find out where to acquire the Surface Pro batteries...???

Tristan Irons -

im also looking for a surface pro replacement battery.

Lekan Adesanya - Replica

I just bought one for $70 at a site called newpower99.com... should be here in 2 days. I have no idea if it will work, but it says it comes with a toolkit to replace it. I hope it works.

Matt -

Did you have success installing the Newegg battery?

asmac - Replica

sorry, make that newpower99

asmac - Replica

I guess we can assume the people who tired using the aftermarket batteries were killed in the process of repairing their Surface Pro. May their valiant efforts be remembered for all the days.

pocketdrummer - Replica

I completed this repair.

Notes:

The battery from newpower99 is the correct battery. It does not, however, come with the correct screwdrivers to complete the repair. (I believe they sent a T3, T4, and T5 torx when the repair requires a T2, T3, and T5).

The screen removal is the most difficult part of the repair. In addition to the cables on the bottom of the unit as other repairs have mentioned, the screen assembly itself is very vulnerable to being punctured. In places on the screen assembly, there is only a thin layer of tape sealing the gap between what looks like the LCD/Digitizer and the glass panel.

When you are prying the screen off, be very careful about how deep you go, as puncturing the seal can brick your screen (my screen fell victim to it).

To that end, pay very close attention to the bezel width. It is a different width on every edge. The left side is approximately the same width as the bezel on the glass, the right side is a mm or two skinnier, top is skinnier still and the bot is small.

Scalar - Replica

Continued:

Once the screen assembly is off, the repair is not bad. My unit is a surface Pro 2, so there were a few different screw placements, but it's almost the same.

The screws are incredibly obnoxious. Not only do they require three different screwdrivers, there are many multiple widths and lengths within a screw type. Screw organization is a must.

The adhesive is a big problem as well. The tape holding together my battery assembly looks like it bled some adhesive, which cause my logic board to stick to the battery. A precarious few minutes later, I was able to put enough pressure to pull the board without flexing it too much. The battery is basically welded to the back panel with tape and adhesive. It took all my strength to tear it off the back panel.

If you are reading this and looking to complete this repair, do yourself a favor and order a replacement screen assembly ahead of time. They are approximately $60 now, and there is a good chance of the screen not surviving disassembly.

Scalar -

The Microsoft part number for the OEM Surface Pro 1 Model 1514 battery is P21GU9. The Surface Pro 2 Model 1601 uses the same battery. If you search on eBay for “battery P21GU9”, you’ll find a lot of them - all from Chinese sellers. I just bought one that’s theoretically OEM and brand new (unused) for $35. The seller has a high rating, so hopefully it’s true.

Sheryl Canter - Replica

how do i glue the new battery back in place?

Franz Hofmann - Replica

You glue it back in with double-sided tape. You can get it on Amazon, but most batteries meant to be glued in come with the tape already on it. When my new battery gets here, I’m not going to glue it in as completely as it was. Seems like overkill, and it’s too hard to remove.

Sheryl Canter - Replica

I just removed the battery from my Surface Pro 1. I don’t have the new battery yet. If I try to plug it in with no battery, will I destroy it?

Sheryl Canter - Replica

Well, I had to try it. I plugged it in and turned it on (with no battery) and it worked! So I’m going to screw everything down and just run it this way. I don’t really need the battery (though I ordered it).

Sheryl Canter - Replica

Any chance anyone who’s done this replacement is still following this page? My Surface Pro 2 battery has started to majorly crap out, so I think I’m going to grab a battery here and give this a try. I have definitely not been happy with the build quality of my Surface, in fact, the adhesive at the bottom and 90% of each side has failed more than 6 months ago, so I’m thinking it should be much easier for me to remove the screen. I’ll mainly just need to deal with the top edge of the device.

My question is how to re-”glue” the screen once you take it off? Is that possible? I saw someone mention double sided tape to use to attach the new battery, but would you use the same thing for the screen? Hoping someone can help offer insight from experience. Thanks!

Robert Higgs - Replica

@rchmx To reinstall the screen, remove all the old adhesive and clean the mating surface with >90% isopropyl alcohol, and then secure it with a strong/thin double-sided tape, such as Tesa 61395. This repair is not for the faint of heart. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu Thanks Jeff! Yes, I had found that after doing a bit more searching. The battery in my SP2 is now completely non-functional, but luckily a while back it had bloated to the point where 70+% of the screen has been detached for the casing, so hopefully that will make the process a bit easier. And anyways, it’s necessary to return the device to a more than basically functional level, so I have no choice but to dig in after the holidays are over.

Robert Higgs -

you might be able to find one on Newegg

George Sherman - Replica

What type of glue do you use to re-seal the system?

Tyler Hardy - Replica

? Wish me luck ! I’m going to try it. Thank You All, for your contributions . Microsoft valued my Surface at $7.50

exchange. I’ve got nothing to loose.

Ted Nielsen - Replica

warning: this is not the surface pro 5, because when MS anounced the pro 5 they anounced it as the Surface Pro. I learned it the hard way and now i need a new display, because the edge (where the glue ist) is thinner at the pro 5. In total, it will take you arround 40 screws for the pro 5 to change the battery. way less than here

Flavio Ried - Replica

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