Introduzione
Segui questa guida per sostituire la batteria incollata del tuo MacBook Pro usando un kit iFixit dotato di antiadesivo. L'antiadesivo aiuta ad ammorbidire la colla che fissa la vecchia batteria, rendendone più facile la rimozione.
L'antiadesivo iFixit è infiammabile. Esegui questa procedura in un'area ben ventilata. Non fumare o lavorare vicino a una fiamma libera.
Per minimizzare il rischio di danneggiamenti, accendi il tuo MacBook e consenti alla batteria di scaricarsi completamente prima di iniziare questa procedura. Una batteria agli ioni di litio carica può creare un incendio pericoloso e incontrollabile se viene forata accidentalmente. Se la tua batteria sembra gonfia, prendi adeguate precauzioni.
Nota: il solvente usato per sciogliere l'adesivo della batteria può danneggiare alcuni tipi di plastica. Segui con cura le istruzioni e stai molto attento quando applichi l'antiadesivo.
Cosa ti serve
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Accendi il tuo Mac e apri Terminal.
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Copia e incolla il seguente comando (oppure digitalo esattamente) in Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Premi [return]. Se richiesta, inserisci la tua password di amministratore e premi di nuovo [return]. Nota: il tuo tasto return può essere etichettato anche come ⏎ o "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le sei viti di fissaggio del case inferiore:
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Due viti da 6,2 mm
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Quattro viti da 3,4 mm
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
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Applica una ventosa al case inferiore vicino all'area centrale-anteriore del MacBook Pro.
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Tira la ventosa quanto basta per creare una lieve fessura tra il case inferiore e lo chassis.
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Inserisci un angolo del plettro di apertura nello spazio tra la cover inferiore e lo chassis.
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Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura attorno all'angolo più vicino e fino a metà circa del lato del case.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
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Inserisci il tuo plettro di apertura ancora una volta sotto il bordo anteriore del case inferiore, vicino a uno degli alloggiamenti delle viti più vicine al centro.
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Ruota con una certa forza il plettro per liberare la terza clip che fissa la cover inferiore allo chassis.
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Ripeti questa procedura vicino all'altro alloggiamento delle viti più vicine al centro per sganciare la quarta clip.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
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Tira il case inferiore con decisione verso la parte anteriore del MacBook (per allontanarlo dalla zona delle cerniere) per separare le ultime clip che fissano il case stesso.
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Tira prima da un angolo e poi dall'altro.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
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Rimuovi il case inferiore.
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Metti in posizione e allinea le clip scorrevoli vicino alla cerniera del display. Premi verso il basso e fai scorrere verso la cerniera la cover; lo scorrimento dovrebbe interrompersi quando le clip si sono agganciate.
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Quando le clip scorrevoli sono perfettamente agganciate e il case inferiore appare ben allineato, premi con decisione sul case inferiore per agganciare le quattro clip nascoste sottostanti. Dovresti percepire al tatto e sentire lo scatto di queste clip.
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Stacca con cautela l'ampio pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre il connettore della batteria, sul bordo della scheda logica più vicino alla batteria stessa.
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Rimuovi il nastro adesivo.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
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Stacca delicatamente il piccolo pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo dati della scheda batteria.
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Usa la punta di spudger per sbloccare, sollevandola, la piccola aletta di bloccaggio nera che trattiene il cavo nel suo connettore.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
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Usa uno spudger per sollevare con delicatezza il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria, scollegando quindi la batteria stessa.
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Solleva il connettore quanto basta perché resti separato dal suo zoccolo. Se dovesse fare contatto accidentalmente nel corso della tua riparazione, il tuo MacBook Pro si potrebbe danneggiare.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,8 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo del trackpad.
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Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo a nastro del trackpad facendo leva delicatamente per sollevare il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.
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Prepara un iOpener e deponilo sopra il cavo a nastro del trackpad per circa un minuto, questo per ammorbidire l'adesivo che fissa il cavo a nastro del trackpad alla parte superiore della batteria.
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Se non hai un iOpener, puoi usare un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il cavo. Il cavo deve essere caldo, ma non al punto da scottare se lo tocchi. Stai attento a non surriscaldare la batteria.
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Stacca con cautela il cavo a nastro del trackpad dalla batteria e disponilo in modo che non dia fastidio.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le dieci viti che fissano il gruppo del trackpad:
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Due viti da 4,3 mm
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Otto viti da 5,8 mm
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Rimuovi il gruppo del trackpad.
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Stai attento a non perdere le sei piccole rondelle (due circolari e quattro rettangolari) disposte nella faccia inferiore del trackpad.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,9 mm dalla staffa del connettore della tastiera.
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della tastiera facendo leva e sollevandolo dalla scheda logica.
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Rimuovi le due viti Torx T3 da 2,9mm che assicurano la protezione in alluminio sopra al cavo principale dello schermo.
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Rimuovi la protezione in alluminio.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3:
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Rimuovi due viti da 1,4 mm dalla staffa del connettore della porta Thunderbolt di sinistra.
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Rimuovi altre due viti da 1,4 mm dalla staffa del connettore della porta Thunderbolt di destra.
If you are trying to replace the Thunderbolt port boards, you have to finish removing the entire logic board in order to get to the 2 screws holding each board in place. You can leave the battery and track pad in place though.
Apple used poor quality boards for the thunderbolt boards so they will definitely wear out over time. Make sure you replace them with metal boards and your USB C cable will click in nice and tight for a really long time.
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della porta Thunderbolt sul lato sinistro facendo leva e sollevandolo dalla scheda logica.
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Spingi delicatamente il connettore da un lato in modo che non interferisca con la successiva rimozione della scheda logica.
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Ripeti l'operazione precedente per il connettore della porta Thunderbolt sul lato destro, facendo leva dal bordo interno; una volta scollegato, spingilo delicatamente da una parte.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,9 mm dalla staffa di copertura che fissa il Touch ID e i connettori audio tipo jack da 3,5 mm.
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Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo flessibile del jack audio da 3,5 mm sollevandolo dalla scheda logica.
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Spingi delicatamente verso l'esterno il cavo flessibile.
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Disconnetti il cavo flessibile del Touch ID e del pulsante di accensione facendo leva per sollevarlo dalla scheda logica.
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Applica una quantità modesta di calore con un iOpener, una pistola termica o un asciugacapelli per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il cavo flessibile del Touch ID e dell'accensione.
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Fai scorrere con cautela un plettro di apertura sotto il cavo flessibile per separarlo dalla scheda logica, quindi spingi delicatamente il cavo verso l'esterno.
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Se hai dei problemi, non forzare: applica ancora un po' di calore e prova di nuovo.
First let me thank you for this AMAZING guide which helped me a lot to achieve an almost successful battery replacement… I’m saying “almost” because, as you write in red letters, I wasn’t careful enough and my Touch ID cable got damaged.
Do you have any idea on how much should such a repair cost?
I know that only apple stores or authorized service providers can perform such a repair…
Thanks again!
Boy that’s a tough one :( It’s among the most problematic of all components to replace, because the fingerprint sensor is cryptographically paired to the logic board. The best option might be to get in touch with a skilled microsolderer and ask if they can take a look at the cable and try to repair the traces. Apart from that, the only options I’m aware of would be to pay Apple whatever they demand for a repair (no idea, but most likely a lot), or replace both the sensor and the entire logic board with another set that is already paired and undamaged. Wish I could be more help. Good luck!
Difficult though it may be, as a retired fixer, and amazed at the new tiny tiny parts, I am even more amazed at this new cooperative culture of fixers. The depth of helpful detail is amazing. The new environment of cheap special tools, and amazingly detailed hires pics is a powerful new repair meme. I used i-fixit for my first MBAir, but haven’t the skills for this, my current mac. But this addition, the carefully inserted comments of users, and the skills and cooperative attitude of you all, is quite amazing. And I watch and admire. Well done, you.
This cable has a metal plate that is PART OF THE CABLE. It is initially invisible, and can easily be mistaken for part of the logic board upon which it is adhered. As you begin to try to peel it up, make certain that your tool is also making its way beneath that integral thin metal plate. There are chip components that will delaminate from the cable if you attempt to lift it, or if your prying tool happens to not make it under the plate.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere la vite da 1,9 mm dalla staffa del connettore del digitizer del Touch Bar.
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare il digitizer del Touch Bar facendo leva sul suo connettore per sollevarlo dalla scheda logica.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere due viti da 1,9 mm dalla staffa del connettore del display del Touch Bar.
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del display Touch Bar facendo leva sotto di esso per sollevarlo dalla scheda logica.
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Stacca il nastro adesivo che copre lo zoccolo del connettore del microfono.
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Apri l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo del microfono sollevandola dalla scheda logica.
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Disconnetti il cavo del microfono tirandolo all'indietro (allontanandolo dalla ventola) finché non scorre fuori dal suo zoccolo.
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Se possibile, non tirare sul cavo ma sul nastro attaccato al cavo stesso.
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Fai scattare in posizione aperta l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del tweeter del lato sinistro sollevandola dalla scheda logica.
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Stacca il nastro che copre lo zoccolo dell'altoparlante principale di sinistra.
For me, the main speaker tape on both sides tore loose, which is a real shame, because those are the two hardest to get back in - they're very short and stiff.
Important safety tip: On my laptop, the cables have two semicircular notches near the end. You can tell when they're fully-inserted when the notches are inside the connector.
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Fai scattare in posizione aperta l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF dell'altoparlante principale di sinistra sollevandola dalla scheda logica.
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Ripeti i sei passi precedenti per scollegare il tweeter e l'altoparlante principale del lato destro.
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Inizia staccando il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del tweeter.
This step seems redundant as those six steps get repeated in detail anyway after this step.
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Fai scattare in posizione aperta l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del tweeter del lato destro sollevandola dalla scheda logica.
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Fai scattare in posizione aperta l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF dell'altoparlante principale di destra sollevandola dalla scheda logica.
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Disconnetti il primo cavo di antenna sollevandolo dal suo zoccolo.
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Fai scorrere con cautela delle pinzette o l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto il cavo finché non arrivi vicino allo zoccolo e a quel punto tira verso l'alto oppure fai leva per disconnettere il cavo.
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Ripeti i passi precedenti per disconnettere i due rimanenti cavi di antenna.
Reconnecting is very tricky. It doesn't take much force to push down, but the connectors have to be perfectly aligned. You won't really feel it snap into place, but it will stay put and resist wiggling.
Agreed, very tricky step. I found the two slightly longer leads easier to reattach. Then I used them as a visual guide to attach the small lead. It helped to slightly bend the lead. Glenn is correct, it doesn’t take much pressure to attach but the leads have to be perfectly aligned. Be careful if you test the fit, very easy to pry back off.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere la vite da 2,9 mm che fissa il gruppo antenne.
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Rimuovi tutte le dieci viti che fissano il gruppo della scheda logica:
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Tre viti Torx T3 da 2,5 mm
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Cinque viti Torx T5 da 2,9 mm
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Due Torx T5 da 3,0 mm
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Stacca, ma senza rimuoverle completamente, le due strisce antivibrazione in gomma dall'adesivo che le tiene collegate alle ventole.
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Se necessario, applica una modesta quantità di calore con un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica per ammorbidire l'adesivo e rendere più facile staccare le strisce.
Mine had no adhesive on them at all. You only need to make sure they are loosened from the fan shroud. They come out with the logic board assembly.
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Solleva dal lato sinistro il gruppo scheda logica per rimuoverlo.
Wichtig !!
Vorher den Display Anschluß (hinten mitte) Abschrauben und lösen.
2x bleche mit jeweils 2 Scxhrauben
Ist nachgetragen. Danke!
What just happened… While I was removing the logic board one of the small black boxes from the bottom right just fell off. I am not sure but I think it is a capacitor - it says KO 336 16K 723. It just fell, I did not even touch this part… Maybe it was broken when I opened up the case in the beginning, but I did not notice it then.
Did I just break my laptop?
Translation
Important !!
First unscrew and loosen the display connection (rear center).
2x plates with 2 screws each
@Glendstone You are absolutely right. This is a key feature they forgot to explain.
The feedbacis has possibly already been addressed in step 27 as it was already fully disconnected when I got to this step.
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Controlla l'allineamento dei supporti antivibrazione in gomma e disponili nella giusta posizione.
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Fai passare l'insieme del cavo di antenna nella fessura tra la scheda logica e il dissipatore di calore e accertati che sia correttamente allineato nel momento in cui abbassi la scheda per disporla nella sua posizione.
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Verifica che non ci siano cavi intrappolati sotto la scheda mentre la installi. Controlla con cura tutte le posizioni indicate.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere dalla scheda della batteria le due viti da 3,2 mm.
Terrible time to lose screws, but that is exactly what ended up happening to me. I lost the battery board screws and ended up crazy glueing down.
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Per proteggere il tuo display, posiziona un foglio di stagnola tra lo schermo e la tastiera e lascialo in posizione nel corso di tutta la procedura.
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Puoi anche usare del nastro o della stagnola per ricoprire l'area sotto il trackpad. In alternativa puoi anche disporre un foglio di carta da cucina sotto la zona del trackpad per assorbire un eventuale eccesso di antiadesivo.
From here onward I just used the plastic cards provided without the adhesive. It just cut through the tape and took them off in 2-3 mins without any issue. I tried the floss and it just kept breaking and I didn't want to use the adhesive remover liquid if I could find another way. Using the cards was the best for me.
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Taglia un pezzo di nastro da pacchi o nastro di carta da pittore e fai scorrere uno dei bordi tra la batteria e l'altoparlante del lato sinistro.
I didn’t have packing tape or painter’s tape so I tried to use some of the packing materials, but that was a bad idea. What ended up working for me was to elevate one side and used the plastic card to to direct the acetone away from the speaker. Worked a-ok.
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Ripeti i due passi precedenti dal lato opposto per isolare anche l'altro altoparlante dalla batteria.
Note that no matter how well you tape off the speakers and elevate the sides of the laptop, there is not a lot of space between the battery and the speaker, and adhesive remover WILL wick under the speakers. Yay for capillary action, I guess? . . ..
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Per controllare il flusso dell'antiadesivo e dirigerlo lontano dall'altoparlante, solleva il bordo destro del MacBook Pro di alcuni centimetri usando un libro o un blocco di espanso.
The Fix Kit box is the perfect size for this job. I stuck a little packing tape from the metal case to the box to stop it accidentally sliding off.
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Ora che il tuo MacBook Pro è preparato l'intervento, è ora che ti prepari tu stesso.
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Quando maneggi e applichi l'antiadesivo, indossa occhiali protettivi (sono inclusi nel kit).
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Non portare lenti a contatto senza occhiali protettivi.
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Nel kit sono compresi anche i guanti protettivi. Se temi l'irritazione della pelle, comincia a indossarli già ora.
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Tira via dalla tua bottiglia di antiadesivo il tappo di gomma nera.
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Usa delle forbici per tagliare la punta ancora sigillata dell'applicatore.
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Usa delle forbici per tagliare la punta ancora sigillata dell'applicatore.
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Applica poche gocce di antiadesivo sotto le due celle di destra della batteria, iniziando dal bordo più vicino alla ventola.
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Prima di procedere con il passo successivo, lascia passare un paio di minuti per consentire al solvente di penetrare ed indebolire la colla della batteria.
It REALLY IS strong solvent! I accidentally got some on the rubber strip between the battery and the logic board compartment and it peeled right off! I had to replace this with some spare rubber feet I had for another device.
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Dopo un paio di minuti, inserisci l'angolo di una scheda di plastica sotto la batteria più a destra, iniziando dal bordo anteriore.
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Muovi la scheda da un lato all'altro e falla scorrere interamente sotto la cella della batteria.
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Solleva la cella per staccare completamente la colla, ma non cercare di rimuoverla già ora.
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Lascia temporaneamente la scheda di plastica sotto la cella per impedire che l'adesivo possa incollarsi nuovamente.
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Se hai delle difficoltà a infilare la scheda sotto una qualunque delle celle, prova a far passare un pezzo di filo interdentale o di cavo elettrico sotto la cella della batteria e tiralo da un lato all'altro in modo alternato per staccare la colla.
Bei der Entfernung der Akkus mit Zahnseide oder Maurerschnur jeden Akku seperat lösen.
Wie im Bild gezeigt von hinten einfädeln und dann zwischen den beiden Akkus nach vorne lösen.
Dabei die Zahnseide wie eine Säge nach rechts und Links bewegen.
Bei den kleineren Akkus sind die Klebestreifen von hinten nach vorne. Somit ist das auch die Richtung wie man sie einfach lösen kann.
Der Mittlere Akku ist von links nach rechts verklebt. Somit sollte man dort die Richtung ändern.
Danke für die Erläuterungen!
Translation (Google) : When removing the batteries with dental floss or masonry cord, loosen each battery separately. Thread it in from the back as shown in the picture and then release it to the front between the two batteries. Move the floss to the right and left like a saw. On the smaller batteries, the adhesive strips are from back to front. So this is also the direction how to solve them easily. The middle battery is glued from left to right. So you should change direction there.
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Ripeti gli ultimi passi per staccare la cella all'estrema sinistra.
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Inizia a sollevare il lato sinistro del MacBook Pro per dirigere il flusso di antiadesivo lontano dall'altoparlante.
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Applica poche gocce di antiadesivo sotto la cella della batteria all'estrema sinistra e attendi due minuti perché possa penetrare.
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Fai scorrere l'angolo di una scheda di plastica sotto la cella della batteria all'estrema sinistra per staccare con cura l'adesivo che la tiene in posizione.
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Lascia temporaneamente la scheda di plastica sotto la cella per impedire che possa riattaccarsi mentre continui la procedura.
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Ora solleva il bordo inferiore del tuo MacBook Pro per indirizzare il flusso dell'antiadesivo lontano dalla zona della tastiera e della scheda logica.
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Applica poche gocce di antiadesivo sotto ciascuna delle tre celle della batteria rimaste.
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Stai attento al solvente che cola e, se necessario, applica dell'altro antiadesivo lungo i bordi laterali.
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Aspetta un paio di minuti prima di continuare.
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Fai scorrere una scheda di plastica completamente al di sotto della cella all'estrema sinistra, che avevi già staccato nei passi precedenti, e poi inseriscila con delicatezza tra la batteria di sinistra rimasta e la scocca in alluminio del MacBook Pro.
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Ripeti i due passi precedenti per staccare la cella della batteria rimasta sul lato destro.
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Fai scorrere l'angolo di una delle tue schede di plastica sotto il bordo superiore della grande cella centrale della batteria.
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Muovila da un lato all'altro e infilala sotto la cella della batteria finché non si stacca tutto l'adesivo che la trattiene.
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Rimuovi la batteria.
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Prima di inserire una nuova batteria, rimuovi tutta la colla rimasta sulla scocca del MacBook Pro.
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I pezzi più grandi di adesivo li puoi rimuovere usando delle pinzette o le dita, protette da guanti.
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Raschia ogni altro pezzo di colla con uno strumento di plastica e pulisci le aree sottostanti con antiadesivo o alcol isopropilico. Sfrega in una sola direzione (non avanti e indietro) finché la scocca non sarà pulita e quindi pronta per accogliere la nuova batteria.
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Quando hai finito, rimuovi con cura il nastro protettivo dagli altoparlanti.
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Stai attento al cavo dati della batteria e accertati che non rimanga schiacciato o intrappolato sotto la scheda della batteria.
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Se la tua batteria è dotata di adesivo preinstallato sulla faccia inferiore, rovescia la e stacca con cura la protezione per esporre l'adesivo. Se invece è priva di adesivo preinstallato, applica un sottile nastro biadesivo come il Tesa 61395 per tenere in posizione la batteria.
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Posiziona con cura la batteria e disponila nella sua posizione.
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Premi e tieni premuta fermamente ciascuna cella per 5-10 secondi per fissarla al case inferiore.
Step 88 is a bit . . . . sparse. “Carefully position the battery and set it into place.“ Ha! Be prepared for mass amounts of swearing (and I don’t usually swear). iFixIt sends you a battery that has the adhesive strips covered with one long very thick piece of plastic. And by “battery” I mean five discreet sections held together with thin ribbon cables that make the entire thing as wriggly as a toddler and as unstable as my girlfriend in college. If you take it off the thick plastic and try to maneuver the battery into its very specific places while the battery’s strong adhesive strips stick to everything but what it should you will rue the day. Rue, I tell you! I cut the top piece of thinner plastic into three sections (middle, left side, right side) so I was able to place one section at a time, and it made it much easier (well, “much” may be a stretch. How about, “only slightly less-sweary”).
I feel sorry for Wayne though happy for his comment. I got my battery pack delivered with 5 separate plastic covers on the adhesive strips under, and one long plastic sheet holding the five parts together at the top. Thanks to the latter, I could easily position the 5-pack, remove the cover from the bottom parts one by one, and the holding sheet at last.
Thank you Wayne and thank you iFixit :-)
Thank YOU for this comment to Wayne because I too was confused about the purpose and proper use of the aligning plastic and adhesive pads. I originally thought it was meant to be the tape/pads to hold the new battery in place in the macbook, albeit they were a lot thicker and the way they were arranged etc made no sense for how to use it that way. Once I read your comment it all made sense and with the addition of some 3M double-sided I was all set. Thanks Paul!
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Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla parte nuova prima di installarla.
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi descritti in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
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Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla parte nuova prima di installarla.
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi descritti in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
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37 Commenti
Amazing, Thanks
does this also work for the 2018 model?
Why do you remove the logic board? There are videos on youtube that demonstrate that there is no need to remove the logic board or the trackpad to replace the battery ...
no need to remove the logic board .
Cosmin -
Just finished replacing - stopped at step 23 after removing the Track Pad. Did not have to remove Logic Board. You don’t even need to remove the Track Pad, but because of the glue on the center cell, it’s probably a good idea and a pretty easy step to keep Track Pad safe when prying the cell off the case. It does take a bit of careful “jiggling” to remove the old battery and to slide the new one under the LB, but IMO definitely much (MUCH!) easier than removing all of the components after step 23.
Vadique -
I just replaced my battery without removing the board. However that requires a dangerous wiggle dance to run the battery controller ribbon cables under the mainboard without breaking them.
For anyone attempting this: first slide the left corner in by angling the whole battery pack so that it goes in. Arrange the battery packs but don’t glue them in yet. For the right corner, angle the mainboard’s battery connector straight up to keep it out of the way and then carefully bend the ribbon cable almost vertically to slide it in between the mainboard and the case. I’ve used the pick to carefully push it in along its length from left to right.
When Eugene says the RIGHT side, is that the right side as you look down on the battery or that actual right side of the computer?
leorob -
The instructions are missing one step: Disconnecting the display cable. It is located in the top center. If you look closely in the images, the cable is still connected in step 19 but then it is disconnected in step 39 (on the top-left at the very edge of the picture you see half of the loose cable. The disconnected cable is fully visible in the picture for step 58)
hy
i have an issue with a macbook pro 13 2018
battery condition: replace now
cycle count 2
charge remaining (mAh) 0
full charge capacity (mAh) 5169
amperage (mA) 0
voltage (mV) 4330,
battery is not charging
does any one know how to solve this ?
is there a way to charge the battery disconected from the mainboard? like jump start
i think that thr battery is under the charging designated voltage and the macbook does not charge it due to this low voltage.
the laptop is new , was not used from 2018!
tried smc resset and it does not work
thank u
I have a similar problem, I have a 2017 MB Pro with TouchBar 4ports with the problem of the battery not exceeding 1%, and this is the second original battery from apple, the second battery lasted about 40 charge cycles ... now out of guarantees and campaigns, I had to change the battery for a non-original one. I opted for a SLODA (which comes with everything you need and looks pretty good). Once changed successfully following this guide, the macbook boots on battery, but there is no way to get the battery to charge with the original charger...it detected it at 80% charge, the mac detects the original charger, giving all the information on the charger and power, but in none of the 4 USB-C ports does the battery charge. Even trying 2 different Mac chargers I am able to get it to charge. Next week I will try another brand of battery, but it gives me that the motherboard of my macbook pro 2017 with 4 ports is damaged. It is not normal that the 2nd battery replaced by apple lasted only 40 cycles. Greetings and THX
Daniel -
Followed each of the steps and the battery install was successful but now I’ve lost the mic and the touchbar. I’ve gone back and removed and reattached the connections with no luck. Any ideas?
Excellent and very detailed guide. I did this on the mid 2018 model and had no problems. However, I must note that removing the logic board is not needed to remove the battery. saves a lot of work if once you remove the trackpad, you just skip to battery removal.
Wunderbar, danke, erfolgreich ausgeführt. Auch ohne das Logic Board auszubauen, nur das TrackPad musste raus. Etwas schwierig die Leitungen unter das Board zu schieben beim Einbau des Akkus…vielleicht auch eine kleine Gefahr der Beschädigung der Leitungen vorhanden, hat aber gut geklappt und spart sehr viel Arbeitsschritte
Success - the patient is alive and well! The instructions are awesome. I did all 88 steps forward and back. Allowed me to avoid the chance of getting adhesive remover on the circuit card or in the trackpad. I also took the opportunity to clean any dust off the fans, logic board, and inside the case. In surgery for 5 hours but spent time cleaning all the adhesive from the battery compartment. Did not have the iOpener so heated a metal bar with my heat gun and applied that. Those antenna connectors were tough to go back on (tough to align to get them to snap - and I’ve used them before on other projects). All features related to connectors removed and reapplied seem to work perfectly.
Success too! I was very nervous during all the process. Took me around 3 hours and two mugs of coffee.
My old battery had vastly inflated (over 2cm thick). With patience I got rid of the Apple's glue and stickers.
Everything is working like a charm now: bluetooth, wifi, trackpad, touchbar, fingerprint, audio, mic.
Thank you so much for your guide!
PS: I also do not understand why I needed to remove the logic board but it needed de-dusting anyway!
Like Cosmin and Vadique, I decided not to remove the logic board. Instead, I stopped at step 27 and removed the 10 logic board screws that allowed me to lift the logic board enough to sneak the PCB in between the raised aluminum case and the logic board. Like I also mentioned in step 11, be very careful with the battery data connector. It is very easy to damage (ummm, or so I’ve heard . . .) and this repair could make your laptop tethered to a charger for the rest of its life. How I managed to sneak it back into place after breaking it off is a mystery to me.
At step 30, 33, and 63, I ended up using a T4 Torx screwdriver instead of a T3 since it was slipping on the screws. Other than that, it was an amazing guide.
I can see why you wouldn’t have to remove the logic board but it did make things easier at the end when that was out of the way.
I just finished my 2017 MBP retina with touch bar, I couldn’t remove the LB because one of the Torx screws was stripped. I was able to slip the battery under the LB, add the trackpad back, and put everything back together. Much easier than removing all of the components, however a bit more risk. Btw, drain your battery before removing it, mine started sparking and I thought it was going to catch on fire … oops.
Isn’t the display cable removal missing? I followed this guide a few time and every time I forgot to unscrew it. It is highlighted in step 66, though.
I followed this guide exactly, except for removing the logic board, which is unnecessary. The new battery I purchased from iFixit, and I used the kit from iFixit, which we used on a previous battery replacement in a 2015 MacBook Pro. Everything went extremely well like before, just over 2 hours for something that was nearly impossible in the past without iFixit.
However, I boot it up and macOS says the new battery from iFixit needs service and is not charging. The Mac system report shows it’s a new battery with zero cycle count, so I get Coconutbattery for more details. Coconutbattery says the “new” battery is actually 1619 days old, manufactured in 2017, and current charge capacity is 50.8% of design capacity!
Wow, the part I bought from iFixit is actually worse than the old one I spent over 2 hours replacing. I sent an urgent, frustrated email to support asking what they are going to do, because our customer needs this back ASAP. We’re going to have to do it again at no charge.
Excellent guide, I was able to complete the repair without drama, thank you!
This was a lot of work but paid off handsomely. Happy to say everything worked when I put it all back together. On the whole this guide is amply detailed and well-illustrated!
I’d recommend repeating the link to the swollen battery instructions in step 8. I missed it in the intro and my battery was swollen enough to pop the center and side clips while I was removing the pentalobe screws in step 2. (Fortunately the guide as-is advised enough caution that I didn’t get in trouble!) I’d also recommend moving the warning about the trackpad washers ahead to step 22. It was at that point that one of the circular washers went MIA on me, before I realized there were washers. The third image in step 66 was highly valuable in making sure all the cables were in the right place before screwing down the logic board!
To keep the screws organized I screen-grabbed all the images of screw locations and printed them 4-up and covered the screw locations with double-sided tape to hold the screws as I removed them.
Sorry Leute, aber ich verstehe den Aufwand nicht, den ihr da treibt. Ich habe heute so einen Akku erfolgreich getauscht und musste nur das Kabel des Trackpads lösen. Der ganze restliche Bohai ist unnötig! Und auch das Lösungsmittel kann man sich sparen, wenn man den Akku mit einem breiten Spatel langsam löst.
Perfect both the product and the instructions. Thanks so much.
Perfect both the product and the instructions. Thanks so much.
Just finished the battery surgery on my 2017 MB Pro 13" Touch Bar. I elected to not use the liquid adhesive remover and thus did not bother to remove the logic board. As others said, get to step 23 and then skip ahead to removing the battery. I used one of the plastic cards included in the kit to fairly easily separate the battery from the adhesive. The key is to push the card through the adhesive and to not try to pry the battery away from the adhesive. For the logic board, I simply removed all the screws that secure it to the chassis so that it could be slightly lifted to pass the battery connector into place.
Completed the replacement of my battery. Tried to turn it on and only the right fan was on super loud. I have no idea what happened or what to do.
Just finished replacing the battery. I stopped after step 21, so didn't remove the trackpad. And continued with step 69. I removed most of the Logic Board screws to be able to lift the LB a bit to get the battery out and replace it with the new one. It took some time to remove the batteries and I used alcohol 70%. For the battery in the middle I didn't use alcohol because the trackpad was still underneath. Instead I used two plastic cards, the bottom one to protect the trackpad and the top one to "jiggle'' through the glue. I'm aware I took more risks than when you follow all steps of this very good instruction. My compliments to the iFiXiT team and thanks for the translation of Thomas Keulemans.
I follow step by step, plus an ammendment published by @Glendstone on Step 62, and at the moment, everything worked o.k.
Ich habe auch das Logic Board drin gelassen. Lediglich beim Einfädeln der Flachbandkabel zwischen einem sinnfreien Plastikklotz oberhalb des Trackpads hatte ich Probleme. In diesem Moment muss man bereits mit den neuen, klebrigen Batterien jonglieren, die für diesen Moment eben noch nicht irgendwo festkleben dürfen. Dazu war es hilfreich, die Schrauben des Logic Boards (vom Trackpad gesehen aus zu den Lüftern) zu entfernen, damit man etwas mehr Spielraum zum Unterschieben der Kabel hat.
Ansonsten: Prima Anleitung! Der Klebstoffentferner ist wirklich SEHR wirksam. Vorsicht beim Verteilen. Das kleine Flaschen "spuckt" gerne. Eine kleine Spritze zu benutzen ist jedoch eine noch weniger gute Idee. Besser ein Wattestäbchen tränken und dies im mehren Schritten an den richtigen Stellen auspressen.
Excelent guide and replacement went smoothly (Took me about 1.5 hours because I did it without removing the motherboard). Until I turned the machine and the ssd is not detected, not even in recovery mode. I dont know what to do so any help will be greatly appreciated
If you left the mobo screwed down there isnt much to troubleshoot. Just check all of the cables around the perimeter of the device, 2 of the corners of the laptop have dual ribbon cable connections underneath each other. Make sure the ribbon connection on top of the battery "connecting plate"(held down by a large head screw), is there and screwed down all the way.
Just finished to reinstall, everything run fine except that the new battery status is "fully charged" but the computer shutdown when I unplug the USB-C cable, no battery icon in the toolbar either.
I just followed this document on replacing the battery as well as the type-c charging ports on both sides of a Macbook A1706 2017 with Touch bar. I've always bought the replacement ports from amazon, and I've never gotten one complaint. After installation the "snap" you feel/hear when you plug in a charger feels and sounds like a quality part. As always, this "How-to" guide was stellar, and I followed it to a "T". Replacing battery & both charging ports took me 3.25 hours total, which is an hour more than I estimated!
I own a PC repair business, and I quickly learned that when doing repairs on Apple products you need to have a large screw/parts organizer WITH LABELS or else you're going to really screw up someone's device! I really hate fixing Apple products, but SO THANKFUL I have IFIXIT guides like this to reference.
Huge thanks from Carrollwood Computers ~Tampa Bay Area
Stopped after completing step 20. Then, when installing battery just followed what Eugene Pankov mentioned looking down at the battery. Easy-peasy. Used only the screwdriver, tweezers, glue removal card, one guitar pick, 4 q-tip and acetone for clean up from the kit. The old adhesive removal took the longest to do slowly removing with the tweezers. Then using some acetone on the q-tip to remove any leftover foam adhesive.
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Replica
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Replica
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Replica
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Replica
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Replica
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Replica
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Replica
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Replica
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Replica
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Replica
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Replica
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Replica
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Replica
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Replica
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Replica
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Replica
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Replica
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Replica
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Replica
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Replica
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Replica
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Replica
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Replica
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Replica
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Replica
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -