Introduzione
Hai dei problemi con la connessione Wi-Fi del tuo iPhone 7? È forse venuto il momento di sostituire l'antenna Diversity Wi-Fi. Segui questa guida per ritrovare la tua connessione Wi-Fi.
Cosa ti serve
-
-
Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.
-
Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm nella parte inferiore del tuo iPhone.
-
-
-
Misura 3 mm dalla punta del plettro e segna questa distanza con un pennarello indelebile.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
-
-
-
I prossimi tre passaggi ti spiegherano come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, uno strumento che abbiamo studiato per rendere la procedura di apertura più facile. Se non stai usando l'Anti-Clamp, salta questi tre passaggi e continua con un metodo alternativo.
-
Tira la manopola blu verso la cerniera per disattivare la modalità di apertura.
-
Posiziona la ventosa vicino al bordo inferiore dello schermo: una davanti e una dietro.
-
Spingi sulle ventose in modo tale che possano fare presa sull'area desiderata.
-
-
-
Tira la manopola blu in avanti per bloccare i bracci.
-
Gira la manopola in senso orario di 360 gradi o fino a quando le ventose iniziano ad allungarsi.
-
Assicurati che le ventose siano allineate fra loro. Se dovessero iniziare a scivolare, allenta leggermente le ventose e riallinea i braccetti.
-
-
-
Scalda un iOpener e infilalo tra i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
-
Piega l'iOpener in modo che poggi sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.
-
Attendi un minuto per dare all'adesivo una possibilità di staccarsi e formare una fessura di apertura.
-
Inserisci il plettro di apertura nella fessura.
-
Salta i tre passaggi successivi.
-
-
-
Il riscaldamento del bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che blocca il display, semplificando l'apertura.
-
Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo per circa 90 secondi al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)
I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!
I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.
I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.
I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.
The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.
I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!
No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?
Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .
. . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!
-
-
-
Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …
Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!
Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun
iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.
If you don't have the anti-clamp device, to prevent the screen from tearing open when suctioning it, I suggest some layers of tape around it and the back of the phone (the tape has to be stretchy enough to just minimise the momentum when separating the screen), or some big rubberbands
-
-
-
Tira la ventosa applicando una tensione forte e costante fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo dello schermo e la scocca.
-
Inserisci nella fessura un plettro di apertura.
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(
Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.
Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.
Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.
Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.
- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.
- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.
In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.
Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.
I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?
After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...
- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button
- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip
- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in
- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick
Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.
I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.
Suction cup pliers. Dead easy
After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!
The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.
I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.
-
-
-
Fai scorrere il tuo attrezzo lungo il bordo sinistro del telefono, spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
-
Fermati vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro del display.
-
-
I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.
-
-
Inserisci nuovamente il tuo attrezzo nell'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPhone e fallo scorrere attorno all'angolo e lungo il lato destro del telefono per separare l'adesivo.
-
-
-
Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura sotto il display attorno all'angolo superiore sinistro e lungo il bordo superiore del telefono per allentare l'adesivo rimasto.
I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help
I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.
This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!
-
-
-
-
Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato sinistro, come per sollevare la copertina posteriore di un libro.
-
Appoggia il display contro qualche tipo di supporto per mantenerlo aperto mentre lavori sul telefono.
Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!
Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!
“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.
Which is the same as folding to the right.
“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.
Maybe it gets lost in translation?
Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!
When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!
Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!
DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.
If you're skipping the screen and taptic engine removal like I did, I suggest you tape the back of the phone to the table, and also tape the screen to the vertical object it lays on, so it stays still. That way you will avoid having to constantly readjust it because of the sliding of the housing of the phone when you're working on it. Be careful where you're putting the tape on the screen though, if you're doing it on the internal components.
-
-
-
Rimuovi le seguenti viti con testa tri-wing Y000 dalla staffa inferiore del connettore:
-
Tre viti da 1,2 mm
-
Una vite da 2,4 mm
These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck
What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck
i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.
What if I stripped a screw what do I do??
Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?
It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.
Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.
For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.
What do I do if I Stripped one of them?
Can’t get them removed what to do ?
Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…
You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/
Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.
Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.
I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small. use a magnetised screwdriver, or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol
Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid
Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.
To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws. This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.
try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.
-
-
-
Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del connettore.
my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off
This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.
So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.
Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?
Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…
I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.
Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.
Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.
-
-
-
Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?
Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.
I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.
The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.
It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.
In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.
Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.
It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....
Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.
after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level
-
-
-
In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.
-
Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per staccare i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.
To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.
MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.
Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(
I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?
Thanks for advice!
this point is the most important in the whole manual.
Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking
I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.
My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.
Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.
I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.
If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..
It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.
I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement
I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(
Viktoria -
There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.
When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.
I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!
Viktoria -
thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.
-
-
-
Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.
Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)
It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.
If you’re having trouble removing these screws;
the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.
If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.
If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).
If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.
there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.
I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.
I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..
Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!
^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.
the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet
The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(
Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.
I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.
PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.
the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?
You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.
Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O
I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work
I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.
The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…
That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!
and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well
PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!
-
-
-
Stacca il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.
Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.
Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.
@victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!
This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.
After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.
The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?
The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?
-
-
-
Rimuovi il gruppo display.
When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).
Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?
@victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)
This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?
@trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?
If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!
If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.
-
-
-
Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,9 mm che fissano lo sfiato barometrico al case posteriore.
I didn't see the necessity, so I didn't remove the Barometric Vent since I decided I wasn't going to uplug the Taptic Engine, although I did remove screws for the Taptic Engine, but I didn't unplug it. I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.
-
-
-
Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del Taptic Engine dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
-
-
-
Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,6 mm che fissano il Taptic Engine al case posteriore.
My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!
Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.
I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??
another person checking in here to assure you that, if you find a stripped screw (or more) at this step, you’re not crazy. I have one as well! I’m in dis-effing-belief. This phone has NEVER been serviced by anyone, and was allegedly brand new when purchased.
To the person suggesting a dremel tool to remedy this…. *blink**Blink*. Are you kidding me right now? *slap*. Vibrating the !&&* out of all those sensitive parts - not to mention what one slip could end in your phone being effectively sawed in half.
-
-
-
Svita la vite Phillips che fissa l'antenna diversity del Wi-Fi al case posteriore:
-
Una vite da 3,2 mm
-
-
-
Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare i connettori dei due cavi dell'antenna dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre.
Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?
Speaker and antenna?
I'm missing the black thing from my antenna and I have no signal, could this be the reason why? Is the black thing insulation?
I am having the worst time imaginable trying to reconnect the antenna cable coming from the lightening connector assembly to the logic board. It’s barely long enough and will not snap into place. There’s a minature gold pin sticking up from a circular gold ring on the logic board and I must have spent an hour on this one step. The antenna end has the female end. Everything else went well. The antenna connector from the old lightening assembly will connect relatively quickly. I’m beginning to think the new antenna connector female end might be defective. I’m ready to cut the black antenna wire and try to solder in a longer piece using the old connector assembly. Any ideas? HELP !!!
These can be tricky to reconnect. I found the best way is to hold the connector with tweezers and use the point of a spudger on top of the connector in the other hand. Slowly moving the connector with the tweezers while applying gentle pressure with the spudger, you will eventually feel the connector and its seat line up and you can snap into place. Don’t force it, when it is lined up it is easy so you have to patiently work on aligning it.
please say which antenna is which, impossible to know now
Tip that helped me: remove the standoff screw next to the clip before derouting (or, upon reassembly, rerouting) the cables. This gives you a lot more space to work with! (Note: I only did this on reassembly, so I don’t know if there are any gotchas on disassembly.)
-
-
-
Usando ancora le pinzette, rimuovi i cavi dell'antenna dalla clip sull'altoparlante.
This was an oddly challenging step, lifting the speaker slightly from the top end allowed me to slide the tips of one side of the tweezers in between the cable and the speaker, prying it out rather than grabbing and pulling which feels dangerous.
They break very easily
One cable seems to stay attached to the speaker. Don’t try to pry it off the speaker! This is shown in the video but not in these photos.
-
-
-
Rimuovi l'altoparlante.
Reassembly tip: after aligning the speaker with the bottom edge, instead of lowering the speaker into place, keep the speaker raised slightly and push the cables back into the clip (which were removed in step 28) with the flat end of a spudger. In doing so, though, make sure that the cable from the lightning connector piece remains above the flat metal piece protruding out the left side of the speaker.
-
-
-
Rimuovi delicatamente l'antenna dalla clip sull'altoparlante.
-
-
-
Rimuovi l'antenna Diversity Wi-Fi.
When installing the new antenna, it seemed at first that the grommet hole for the screw on the left side did. It line up with the holes on the speaker and case. The key is to gently use the flat end of the spudger to nudge the ribbon up against the speaker and down. Then it lines up well and the antenna cable routes easily through the clip channel.
-
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Annulla: non ho completato questa guida.
Altre 34 persone hanno completato questa guida.
Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:
100%
Claire Miesch ci sta aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›
5 Commenti
Qual’è e dove si trova l’antenna dei dati cellulare? Non quello del Wi-Fi
questa guida risolve il problema del wifi grigio?
vyřešili jste problém?
Is this a potential fix for an iPhone that won’t allow the wi-fi to be turned on? The phone has been fully restored to factory but still won’t allow the wi-fi to be turned on. It is crossed out in the Control Center, and won’t allow it to be toggled on in the Settings.
Hey i have same issue with wifi did you get any solutions?
Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?
Cooper Chase - Replica
Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.
rcheing - Replica
Can’t get the display front
Bernadette Pfeifer - Replica
From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.
ballina5ny - Replica
I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.
Mark Lieberman - Replica
in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)
Jan-Tijn Oppermann -
3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.
Ahmad Vaziri -
the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks
Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Replica
The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.
Bram Driesen -
Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.
Jon Moylan - Replica
If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.
Ryan Huebert - Replica
Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction
Cynthia Lamb - Replica
I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?
Richard - Replica
Do the screws come out in total?
YVES THEUGELS - Replica
They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.
Anthony Falabella -
Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??
YVES THEUGELS - Replica
I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.
Anthony Scaminaci - Replica
At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss - Replica
I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.
I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.
Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss - Replica
I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.
I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.
The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?
H K - Replica