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Componenti & Strumenti

Introduzione

Segui questa guida per sostituire la ventola all'interno della console di gioco Nintendo Switch.

Durante la reinstallazione, assicurati di infilare il perno corretto nell'occhiello di gomma prima di posizionare la ventola.

  1. Rimuovi le 4 viti tri-wing Y00 da 6,3 mm dal pannello posteriore.
    • Rimuovi le 4 viti tri-wing Y00 da 6,3 mm dal pannello posteriore.

    Please be careful with these screws. Your bit will go through them like butter and strip them if you're not careful. Speaking from experience.

    Benjamin Fryar - Replica

    So should I use glasses screws

    iceprincess4445 - Replica

    what happens if you do strip a screw?

    Stephanie C Cusimano - Replica

    I used a Y0 bit instead and it worked better for me not to strip the screws

    Alexander Watson - Replica

  2. Rimuovi la singola vite a croce Phillips #000 da 6,1 mm da sotto il cavalletto.
    • Rimuovi la singola vite a croce Phillips #000 da 6,1 mm da sotto il cavalletto.

    Mine was no longer than about 1mm.

    Nani - Replica

    Agree. This was a very short screw.

    Paul Swinglehurst - Replica

  3. Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips da 2,7 mm dalla parte inferiore del dispositivo.
    • Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips da 2,7 mm dalla parte inferiore del dispositivo.

    These screws wouldn’t go back in for me for some reason. I was definitely using the right screws as I set them aside step by step as usual. I’m not sure what the problem could have been, I just reassembled without the screws.

    Jason Rivera - Replica

  4. Rimuovi la singola vite a croce Phillips da 2,7 mm dalla parte superiore del dispositivo
    • Rimuovi la singola vite a croce Phillips da 2,7 mm dalla parte superiore del dispositivo

    This one didn’t want to come out on its own, and only came loose when I completed the rest of the steps to remove the rear panel, as I pulled the panel off.

    Matt Silver - Replica

  5. Rimuovi la vite da 3,8 mm Phillips #000  dalla guida Joy-Con destra. Rimuovi la vite da 3,8mm Phillips #000 dalla guida Joy-Con sinistra.
    • Rimuovi la vite da 3,8 mm Phillips #000 dalla guida Joy-Con destra.

    • Rimuovi la vite da 3,8mm Phillips #000 dalla guida Joy-Con sinistra.

    Please do not use a JIS #0 bit on this kit. I ended up stripping the screw on my switch and now I won't be able to get inside. You are much more likely to remove this screw with a JIS #000 bit, like literally every other screw on this machine. Why I thought I should throughly read and follow the instructions is beyond me, because I guess this ifixit guy decided it would be a great meme to get people to ruin their switches.

    Jacob Klinkenberg - Replica

    +1, JIS #0 seems way too large; I used a #00 and that worked. I agree that #000 might have worked even better, but I saw this comment too late.

    Nikolai Knopp -

    Mine was #000 too. #0 was definitely too large. Also there are signs of blue threadlock.

    Nani - Replica

    tried using #000 and #00 but the screw wont turn, any ideas why

    thawdon - Replica

    Ive been trying to unscrew with the correct 000 bit for like 5 minutes and it wont unscrew :/ please help asap

    xenomorphic/dark Mewtwo - Replica

    this screw stripped in like two seconds using the screwdriver included with ifixit’s kit!

    Connor Martini - Replica

  6. Tira il pannello posteriore verso l'alto e rimuovilo dal dispositivo. Tira il pannello posteriore verso l'alto e rimuovilo dal dispositivo. Tira il pannello posteriore verso l'alto e rimuovilo dal dispositivo.
    • Tira il pannello posteriore verso l'alto e rimuovilo dal dispositivo.

    You appear to be missing a step. The SD card reader needs to be removed between steps 6 and 7.

    zharin - Replica

    Achtet darauf die Backplate nicht zu kippen, wie es die Bilder vermuten lassen. Ich habe beim nach Hinten klappen ein Plastikgewinde an der Backplate abgebrochen. Aufpassen.

    I think the picture is a bit misleading. I tiltet the plate while I was removing it what resulted in an broken off screwmount.

    Leon Grell - Replica

  7. Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

    Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits
  8. Rimuovi la singola vite a croce Phillips da 3,1 mm dal lettore di schede micro SD.
    • Rimuovi la singola vite a croce Phillips da 3,1 mm dal lettore di schede micro SD.

  9. Solleva il lettore della scheda micro SD e tiralo verso di te per scollegarlo dalla scheda madre. Durante il riassemblaggio, allinea il lettore della scheda micro SD e premi leggermente sul rilievo di gomma fino a quando il connettore va in posizione e ricollegalo.
    • Solleva il lettore della scheda micro SD e tiralo verso di te per scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.

    • Durante il riassemblaggio, allinea il lettore della scheda micro SD e premi leggermente sul rilievo di gomma fino a quando il connettore va in posizione e ricollegalo.

    I cant get the card reader to stay connected to the motherboard when trying to reassemble it. Help needed.

    aNtHoNy R - Replica

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee - Replica

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little - Replica

    Directions were great and very helpful! Saved time and money doing myself.

    David Ross - Replica

    I found that tightening the screw for the sd reader all the way down caused the original sd reader to not seat correctly.

    Jimmy Le - Replica

    Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

    Mike Snow - Replica

    I finished the repair and its not recognizing anything. Ive downloaded a couple more games to the hard drive while I was procrastinating the repair, could a desyncronization issue be causing this?

    David Huser - Replica

    I have the new reader plugged in but my nintendo switch wont turn on now.

    Deadlypizzaman - Replica

    I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

    Katherine Harrison - Replica

    The Y screws are horrible. The bit in the took kit only managed to get two of them out. I have a Y0 bit that got the other two out. What a stupid design those are. Kit should include replacement screws and maybe a new foam pad for the SD Card Reader. New SD card module is tricky to get the connection.

    Garrett ewald - Replica

    Foam pad no longer sticky enough to hold down the connector. Is there any place to get a replacement sticky pad or a work around to keep the connection secure?

    Denise Adams - Replica

    Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

    William Scott - Replica

  10. Rimuovi le sei viti a croce Phillips #000 da 3,1 mm dalla piastra di schermatura.
    • Rimuovi le sei viti a croce Phillips #000 da 3,1 mm dalla piastra di schermatura.

    Between Step 6 and Step 7, there is a missing step of disconnecting and removing the SD Card reader.

    Theo Mat - Replica

    @theomat Step 7 and 8 show the removal of the SD Card reader.

    Blake Klein - Replica

    Step 7 and 8 do not show that. It is completely missing. You show the card reader as being absent, but now how it came to BE absent. A lot of people will try to pull the shield out, presuming the reader is meant to come out with it. Why not update the guide?

    Daniel Henderson - Replica

    Are you seeing something different then what’s seen in this screenshot? https://jmp.sh/PdfdhSy

    Blake Klein -

    @blakeklein I am not seeing that part of the tutorial, no.

    Nico Robin - Replica

    Now I need to find the screw type of this sd card reader ^^

    Maybe my last 3.1mm philips #000 screw? (reassembling phase)

    Julien Plée - Replica

  11. Rimuovi la piastra di protezione dal dispositivo. Uno spesso composto termico rosa permette di collegare tra loro la piastra di schermatura e il dissipatore in rame sottostante. Per un risultato migliore, quando la placca protettiva  è rimossa segui la nostra  guida alla pasta termica per rimuovere quella vecchia e sostituirla con una composto appropriato e spesso come il K5 Pro in fase di rimontaggio. Uno spesso composto termico rosa permette di collegare tra loro la piastra di schermatura e il dissipatore in rame sottostante. Per un risultato migliore, quando la placca protettiva  è rimossa segui la nostra  guida alla pasta termica per rimuovere quella vecchia e sostituirla con una composto appropriato e spesso come il K5 Pro in fase di rimontaggio.
    • Rimuovi la piastra di protezione dal dispositivo.

    • Uno spesso composto termico rosa permette di collegare tra loro la piastra di schermatura e il dissipatore in rame sottostante. Per un risultato migliore, quando la placca protettiva è rimossa segui la nostra guida alla pasta termica per rimuovere quella vecchia e sostituirla con una composto appropriato e spesso come il K5 Pro in fase di rimontaggio.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Replica

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    I’d recommend replacing the thermal compound to ensure that the cooling system works as intended.

    Blake Klein - Replica

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Replica

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Replica

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    I really don’t understand in what areas I should be replacing the thermal paste.

    Do I leave the giant pink glob that’s present on the back plate or replace that as well?

    Or do I only apply it under the heat sink and on the motherboard?

    Nik Terzic - Replica

  12. Inserisci l'estremità appuntita di un spudger sotto il connettore bianco e fai leva verso l'alto per scollegare la batteria dalla scheda madre. Inserisci l'estremità appuntita di un spudger sotto il connettore bianco e fai leva verso l'alto per scollegare la batteria dalla scheda madre.
    • Inserisci l'estremità appuntita di un spudger sotto il connettore bianco e fai leva verso l'alto per scollegare la batteria dalla scheda madre.

  13. Rimuovi le tre viti JIS #000 da 3,1 mm dal dissipatore.
    • Rimuovi le tre viti JIS #000 da 3,1 mm dal dissipatore.

  14. Tira il dissipatore verso l'alto di 45 gradi e ruotalo verso destra per rimuoverlo. Tira il dissipatore verso l'alto di 45 gradi e ruotalo verso destra per rimuoverlo. Tira il dissipatore verso l'alto di 45 gradi e ruotalo verso destra per rimuoverlo.
    • Tira il dissipatore verso l'alto di 45 gradi e ruotalo verso destra per rimuoverlo.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Replica

    Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

    Dan S. - Replica

    where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

    Regal Pikachu - Replica

  15. Rimuovi le due viti JIS #000 da 4,8 mm dalla ventola.
    • Rimuovi le due viti JIS #000 da 4,8 mm dalla ventola.

  16. Usa uno spudger per sollevare il piccolo lembo di bloccaggio grigio sul connettore ZIF della ventola. Usa uno spudger per sollevare il piccolo lembo di bloccaggio grigio sul connettore ZIF della ventola.
    • Usa uno spudger per sollevare il piccolo lembo di bloccaggio grigio sul connettore ZIF della ventola.

    After looking at this guide I realized that my fan isn't the issue, my ZIF connector to the fan is the issue. It is missing the tab used to lock down the cable. What kind of ZIF connector do I need to replace mine? A link to a part would help a lot.

    Tech Sport - Replica

  17. Solleva il lato sinistro della ventola dalla sua rientranza e ruotalo di 15 gradi verso di te. Tira fuori la ventola e allontanala da te per sganciarla dal supporto di gomma. Tira fuori la ventola e allontanala da te per sganciarla dal supporto di gomma.
    • Solleva il lato sinistro della ventola dalla sua rientranza e ruotalo di 15 gradi verso di te.

    • Tira fuori la ventola e allontanala da te per sganciarla dal supporto di gomma.

    There is actually a third screw on step 16 u actually need to take the headphone cover off the two screws then pop that ribbon cord off to get to it other than that this worked perfectly

    Sean - Replica

    This was not necessary for me as the headphone jack housing only covers the rubber grommet which you simple slide the fan out of /in to from the side.

    Grill MAC -

    Should have added that the rubber spacers on the left top and bottom side need to come off the old fan and be placed onto the new.

    Brandon McLaughlin - Replica

    Indeed, there is a lack of information in this last step. There is 3 screws on the fan. As you can see on the third photo, they broke the bottom right hook when pulling it off. I removed the whole jack board to access the last screw properly without breaking anything.

    And don’t forget to get back the three grey rubber spacers on the 3 fan hooks to put them back on the new fan.

    Bla - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Altre 44 persone hanno completato questa guida.

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Blake Klein

Membro da: 29/01/2017

53.583 Reputazione

49 Guide realizzate

If your joycons are not charging, it could be the fans fault as they seem to share a 1.8v and or 5v rail, I had both joycons refusing to charge, and the fan was not working, so by replacing the fan, it had them charging properly again.

Corbin - Replica

oh? i was wondering why my joycons died and never turned on. i though the hot switch short circuited them. the same thing happened to mine. The fan died as well as my joycons. very useful mate. thanks for the info!

Robby Ninte -

I changed the fan and it still don’t charge my Joycon. What should I do?

baron154 -

There are a few steps left out, that really should be included.

First and most importantly, at Step 7 the MicroSD card slot needs to be removed before the shield plate can be removed. There is an additional screw to remove, and a cable to disconnect before the piece can be taken off. The shield plate won't come off until that has been done.

Secondly, it's easier to remove the fan and insert the new one if you fold back the board covering the grommet. To do so, remove two screws holding the black plastic piece in place (at the bottom-right of the fan. Then remove the single additional screw holding that board, disconnect the ribbon cable that covers the grommet, and fold the board gently to the side. That will expire the grommet and make it much easier to move the fan out and replace it.

Third, realistically before you can insert the new fan you need to remove a screw holding the rubber grommet in place and transfer the grommet to the new fan. None of this can be done until the step above had been done.

Adam Snell - Replica

You’re right about the Micro SD Card removal missing. I’ve gone ahead and added that step in. In regards to the the fan removal, removing the game card read/headphone jack board isn’t necessary for the fan removal.

Blake Klein -

thank you for the tip!

Tyler Wennstrom -

To underscore what this Adam said:

Secondly, it's easier to remove the fan and insert the new one if you fold back the board covering the grommet.

To avoid breaking the right-side fan grommet stay, you should disconnect the headphone and game card board then fold away to remove the last fan screw. I missed this comment and during my disassembly one of the fan stays broke, so beware. Also installing the new fan is difficult without moving this board out of the way first.

My Switch is humming along again (silently).

Adam Schrader -

@blakeklein

We can see on your third photo from step 16 that the bottom right plastic hook on the fan is broken, so I think we can say that removing the jack board IS necessary :)

Bla -

If I'm just replacing the fan, do I need to clean off/reapply any thermal paste?

Postponderance - Replica

It’s always a good idea to clean off and replace the thermal paste if the heat sink is removed.

Blake Klein -

Thank you no more overheating when docked.

Also as Sean said there is a third screw (Step #16) under the headphone thingy.

Andres Rivas - Replica

My fan included with my switch did not have a rubber hook, as the one that I bought to replace it did, so I had to remove the third screw that was under the headphone/game card reader circuit board. This meant that I had to unplug the board and unscrew the two screws holding down the headphone jack and I believe one more screw that was holding down the larger board to be able to move it out of the way to remove that screw. Just wanted to let you know that this could be an issue for some people attempting this guide! I have one of the Animal Crossing themed switches, so I don’t know if it’s that way with any other models. Thank you for the guide!

thomas tomkins - Replica

On step 13 when I started to lift up the heat sink 45 degrees as instructed, the copper arm started to bend. The foam on the fan was glued down and had to be scraped loose first.

Please add this additional information to step 13.

Thank you.

Robert Puckett - Replica

Thanks for the guide, but I will also recommend others to remove the third screw under the headphone jack. I was able to remove the fan without doing it but the plastic broke in doing so, and I could not get the new fan back in without removing the headphone jack. Other than that, it was a smooth/easy process as described in the guide!

Andrea Simpson - Replica

Hey, is it okay to use Artic silver 5 on the heat pipe top side after removing the brown clay compound ?

Zibbs - Replica

Excellent guide, worked perfectly for me, and I’m very bad at taking things apart and putting them back together. Fan fixed my joycon not charging issue as well.

Jeremy Daniels - Replica

To echo what other comments have said here, there really should be added procedure for removing the plastic shield over the 3.5mm audio port to the bottom right of the fan and proper disassembly of the board. It should also have instructions on securing the rubber gaskets on all 3 clips that support the fan, as my replacement fan did not come with any, so some people may be in the same circumstance.

Evan Griffin - Replica

Thanks a lot. I used this a few minutes ago to fix my little son Nintendo switch (he will woke up tomorrow with this surprise!).

I am not an expert on this kind of fixes and did this with a lot of caution. Took me around 1 hr and 45 minutes.

Greetings from Mexico

Eduardo Sanchez - Replica

I have a few issues with this Guide which are pretty severe and some minor things.

Okay, first of all you should explain what type of connector the SD card has. ““Step 7 It’s a lego / brick style connector, it’s durable but be careful about the ribbon attached to the SD Card Reader““ This is the part I’m not sure about. My Fan didn’t have these open ended screw holes. Mine were shut and a whole ring. And I broke one of the plastic Fan holes off, because one was supposed to wiggle it outta there but because I didn’t have an Open-ended fan hole on my NS Fan it obviously snapped. My Switch is a new Nintendo Switch Model in the Animal Crossing Special Edition. Maybe it’s a new type of Fan? for the new models. I’m honestly not sure. Let us please get in contact.

Alina Hänel - Replica

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