Introduzione

Questa guida illustra le modalità di sostituzione dell'unità SuperDrive del computer portatile (richiede un'unità SuperDrive SATA).

  1. Rimuovere le otto viti con testa a croce da 4 mm che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook.
    • Rimuovere le otto viti con testa a croce da 4 mm che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook.

    According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.

    Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?

    Gregoire - Replica

    They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...

    weeowey weeowey -

    The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.

    svenaustx - Replica

    Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?

    nm - Replica

    A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III

    weeowey weeowey -

    hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?

    thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.

    michelvanaar - Replica

    The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!

    I hope that helps!

    gdesbrisay -

    Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.

    John Guzman - Replica

  2. La struttura del case inferiore è in alluminio con rivestimento in gomma. Durante la rimozione, non piegare eccessivamente l'alluminio, poiché eventuali deformazioni permanenti causerebbero problemi di tolleranze dopo il riassemblaggio.
    • La struttura del case inferiore è in alluminio con rivestimento in gomma. Durante la rimozione, non piegare eccessivamente l'alluminio, poiché eventuali deformazioni permanenti causerebbero problemi di tolleranze dopo il riassemblaggio.

    • Sollevare leggermente il case inferiore in prossimità dell'apertura della presa d'aria.

    • Continuare a far scorrere le dita fra i case superiore e inferiore finché quello superiore non si sgancia dalle levette di fissaggio.

    • La posizione di queste tre levette è indicata nella terza immagine.

    Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?

    John Morley - Replica

    Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.

    John Morley -

    Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.

    bdahl385 - Replica

    • Per precauzione, suggeriamo di scollegare il connettore della batteria dalla scheda logica per evitare eventuali scariche elettriche. Il passaggio è facoltativo.

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di un inseritore, sollevare il connettore del cavo della batteria dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica tirandolo verso l'alto.

    • Potrebbe essere più semplice utilizzare le unghie per sollevare il connettore da entrambi i lati.

    you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram

    brilldoctor - Replica

    beware not to lift the connector to close of the angle, as the picture suggest it. It might broke the angle. Attack by the middle.

    naamol - Replica

    Not necessary?

    hikkymemo - Replica

    Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!

    jljordanweb - Replica

    Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...

    svenaustx - Replica

    @Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?

    Allan Clarke -

    i used a metal pry and noticed some sparking when i disconnected the battery. replaced ram. now it wont turn on. did i fry it?

    Ian Lynch - Replica

    • Rimuovere le viti seguenti dal lato con unità ottica della presa posteriore:

      • Due viti Torx T8 da 10 mm

      • Due viti con testa a croce da 5 mm

    Hi, i have an issue with the screw in the middle: it is blocked and the top is now damaged... Any suggestion?

    Corrado - Replica

    I have a problem with the two middle screws

    Harlan Shannon - Replica

    same here...

    rekidjinwoo - Replica

    • Rimuovere le viti seguenti dal lato della porta della presa d'aria posteriore:

      • Due viti Torx T8 da 10 mm

      • Due viti con testa a croce da 5 mm

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    • Sollevare con attenzione la presa d'aria posteriore dal case superiore.

    you can actually stop disassembling now and try to replace it now. after removing two t6 screws it came off pretty easily

    grze - Replica

    Good tip, thanks! I skipped ahead to step 17 and had no problem getting the magsafe board out from under the logic board and the new one installed. Saves a lot of work disconnecting connectors indicated as Fragile!

    matt15 -

    Thank You! Saved me an hour or so of work and a lot of stress!

    15sweyandt -

    I also did Step 6, then skipped to Step 17 & 18. Once I had the display data cable off, I could remove the 2 T6 Torx screws holding the MagSafe board on and remove it. You can reach under the logic board with the point of the spudger to work the cable out of the socket. Note how you maneuver the board out of the tight space so you can maneuver it back in. When you put the new MagSafe board in, plug in the cable first. If you bend the wires so the plug approaches the socket at the appropriate angle, you can nudge it in with the pointed end of the spudger.

    hpendleton -

    Thanks a lot for this hint! You saved my macbook, when I failed to unscrew the fan because of one completely destroyed screw. Thanks to your comment I skipped steps 7-16 and went straight to replacing the magsafe board without problems. The spudger and some 3D imagination and done,

    Sebastian M -

  3. Diffondi allegria Fixmas
    Ottieni $12 sul tuo acquisto di $50 o più con il codice FIXMAS12
    Diffondi allegria Fixmas
    Ottieni $12 sul tuo acquisto di $50 o più con il codice FIXMAS12
    • Rimuovere la vite con testa a croce da 12 mm che fissa la parte superiore dell'alloggiamento dell'altoparlante posteriore al case superiore.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere la vite con testa a croce da 2,2 mm inserita in senso orizzontale nella parte laterale dell'unità ottica.

    Finding this screw wasn't easy

    Leonardo Echeverria - Replica

    Where did you find that Screwdriver?

    jesusalbaregidor - Replica

    • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per rimuovere il connettore del cavo piatto AirPort/Bluetooth dalla scheda logica.

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    • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per rimuovere il connettore dell'altoparlante posteriore dalla scheda logica.

    • Sollevare i fili sottostanti.

    • Questo connettore è molto delicato e si rompe facilmente.

    Step 10. If you are having difficulty with the small connector, insert something thin and long underneath it (preferably not metal, as you can scratch the motherboard that way). There is some space under it that you can use to get it loose.

    Remember, the amount of force required to loosen it is very small. Take a break if necessary if you are getting frustrated.

    Stephen Eilert - Replica

    I would recommend not removing this as part of this step. You can easily slide the drive under the speaker wire -- just lift it from the side with two screws carefully.

    Matt Mastracci - Replica

    i just broke the connector! Be very carefully here. Needed to sold the speaker cabels then...

    rafa74 - Replica

    I broke it, obviously... I tried to put it back; it seems to be solid enought, but the speaker now sounds really bad(low and noisy-undefined). Any ideas on how to fix it?

    gl84 - Replica

    Same here. I broke it too, tried to glue it back and have sound, luckily, but very bad quality. THIS STEP IS UNNECESSARY!

    Jens Lubbadeh - Replica

    This step has been very badly explained. I too have now broken my speaker connection. As others have said, you're just trying to lift the cable up NOT "PRY THE SPEAKER CONNECTOR UP OFF THE LOGIC BOARD" as instructed here! Doing this will break the soldered connection to the board. Now I need to take it to a professional for a solder repair.

    Nick - Replica

    Hi There, broke the connector.

    I could not remove the cable even with the broken off connector.

    Soldered it back on, low wattage and very little tin needed.

    When putting the drive back in, I found that the loudspeaker cable could easily fit under the drive holder.

    So, in future in case of problems with the drive, no more broken off connectors..

    vos474 - Replica

    Do not try to remove that connector ! It is too much fragile. As other users did, I broke it … And I don’t know if it will be possible to repair it.

    Jean-Pierre Giovanni - Replica

    Same here, I was very careful, but the connector broke off, of course. Tried to glue it back, but now the sound it very low, noisy, almost useless. Any idea to fix it? :)

    szezo - Replica

    • Ruotare con attenzione il gruppo dell'altoparlante posteriore (con cavi AirPort/Bluetooth ancora collegati) fuori dal case inferiore.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per rimuovere il connettore dell'unità ottica dalla scheda logica.

    The connector broke while removing it... be careful

    Leonardo Echeverria - Replica

    • Rimuovere la vite con testa a croce da 4,5 mm che fissa la staffa dell'unità ottica al case superiore, in prossimità della ventola.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le due viti con testa a croce da 2,5 mm che fissano l'unità ottica al case superiore, in prossimità della relativa apertura.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Sollevare l'unità ottica da un punto vicino al suo connettore ed estrarla dal case superiore per rimuoverla dal computer.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Estrarre il connettore del cavo dell'unità ottica dal corpo di quest'ultima.

    Don't forget to put this connector on the new enclosure!

    Gregoire - Replica

    • Rimuovi le due viti nere a croce Phillips #0 che fissano la piccola staffa di montaggio in metallo. Trasferisci questa staffa alla tua nuova unità ottica o al case del disco fisso.

    Aggiungi Commento

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Step 16, check that your new drive has the optical drive bracket from step 13. If not, transfer the optical drive bracket from step 13 to your new drive.

aliautaud - Replica

Step 4-5 There is a screw in the center of the bar that looks like it might not be a hold down. It is. Be sure to remove it along with the other screws at each end of the bar per step 4 & 5 instructions.

Steven Keplinger - Replica

Step 4-5

There is a screw in the center of the bar that must be removed, in addition to the screws noted in the instructions for step 4 and step 5. It looks like the bar might go over the screw. It doesn't. The center screw holds the bar down. Remove it.

Steven Keplinger - Replica

FYI, I replaced the drive and tried to cut a corner by not replacing the screw in step 8. This was a big mistake as it vibrated horribly even when level and still. Once I replaced the screw, the vibration was almost non-existent.

Nate - Replica

Could I remove the drive completely and still use the computer?

skully557 - Replica

Yes. You can replace it with another optical drive, replace it with an adapter containing a hard disk or leave the space empty if you wish. Obviously you would lose functionality but you would save a little weight.

John Morley -

hi,

i just removed the drive put of my 2009 MacBook pro, physically bought drives are the same except for the bracket so i did changed that one, but the plugs going into the drive are the same but the connector to the board are different so i used the cable that belongs to my a1342 . after starting up the computer i can insert and eject discs, they spin around but i still can't burn or play anything, can you perhaps tell me what to do, can i expect the same if i replace the dive with a drive from a a1342 ?thanks,mick

michelvanaar - Replica

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