Introduzione
Usa questa guida per sostituire l'intero gruppo display del tuo MacBook Pro per poter sistemare uno schermo rotto o malfunzionante. Questo insieme include anche i cavi a nastro integrati noti per guastarsi nell'ambito del difetto congenito noto come “FlexGate”; quindi la sostituzione risolverà anche il problema dell'effetto "stage light" (luci di scena) e altri guai derivanti dai danni ai cavi piatti.
Anche se abbiamo collaudato con successo questa procedura sui modelli 2018 usando display sostitutivi originali Apple, il chip Apple T2 può impedire a display di provenienza aftermarket di funzionare correttamente e il risultato potrebbe essere il fallito boot del tuo MacBook Pro.
Per la tua sicurezza, scarica la batteria del tuo MacBook Pro sotto il 25% prima di iniziare. Se forata inavvertitamente, una batteria al litio-ioni può dar luogo a un incendio pericoloso e incontrollabile.
Cosa ti serve
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Accendi il tuo Mac e apri Terminal.
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Copia e incolla il seguente comando (oppure digitalo esattamente) in Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Premi [return]. Se richiesta, inserisci la tua password di amministratore e premi di nuovo [return]. Nota: il tuo tasto return può essere etichettato anche come ⏎ o "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le sei viti che fissano la cover inferiore, delle seguenti lunghezze:
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Quattro viti da 4,7 mm
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Due viti da 6,6 mm
I miss a printable template to leave the screws and removed parts on it for future identification when reassembly, linked maybe with the location in the Macbook, or with the number of the step.
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Posiziona e quindi premi una ventosa vicino al bordo anteriore della cover inferiore, tra i fori delle viti.
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Tira la ventosa giusto quanto basta per aprire una piccola fessura sotto la cover inferiore.
Throw away this suction cup and get another. It just doesn't work! Luckily I had one that does work in my tool kit.
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Tira la cover inferiore con decisione per farla scorrere verso la parte anteriore del MacBook (allontanandola dal lato con le cerniere) per separare l'ultima delle clip che trattiene il case.
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Tira prima da un angolo e poi dall'altro.
this step must require a lot of force. I tried to pull it with the plastic hookie thing from the ifixit set by hooking it in one of the screw holes — the tip of the hookie thing broke.
The amount of force required for removing the bottom cover is absolutely ridiculous. Almost feels like i'm about to push my MacBook towards the wall the second it comes off.
Be careful, I ended up breaking 2 grounding pins on the motherboard last time I tried opening my computer up.
PLEASE DON'T PULL!!!
Instead just gently push with plastic pick from the other side (where vents outputs are) towards the center... Cover will very easily open that way.
I hope iFixit will correct this step.
Came here to share exactly this.
Robert -
That's definitely how this step should be done. Thanks!
VovS -
If someone has a photo to share regarding this comment, it might be very useful. Thanks.
I used a screwdriver at 45 degrees angle and pushed the cover from the hinges, it worked really smooth. I had it close to the corners.
Yeah, definitely don't pull; if you do, wear protective gloves. Mine was stuck so strongly that I just cut my palm quite deep.
You would think ifixit would investigate why the last step required them to pull with great force to remove the bottom case lid as the solution.
It's counter-intuitive to use an excessive method to remove a part.
There's always an easier way. It's frustrating because you can't see inside.
Using the iFixit opening Tool in the hinge opening required close to no force to open.
Ah... after attempting to 'pull' this rear cover off, to no avail, I tried to coax the cover off with a nylon pry tool. MUCH better! iFixIt will do well to amend it's recommendation to 'pull' this cover in any way. All I wanted to do was a little house cleaning and exorcize the dust bunnies that took up residence in my MBP's fans. Today is much quieter. Thank you all for pointing out the obvious.
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Rimuovi la cover inferiore.
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Disponilo in posizione e allinea le clip a scorrimento vicino alla cerniera del display. Premi verso il basso e fai scorrere la cover verso la cerniera. Lo scorrimento si dovrebbe arrestare non appena le clip si agganciano.
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Quando le clip a scorrimento sono perfettamente agganciate e la cover sembra correttamente allineata, premi con decisione la cover stessa per agganciare le quattro clip nascoste. Dovresti sentire lo scatto quando le clip si bloccano.
If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).
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Solleva e rimuovi lo sticker isolante che copre la scheda della batteria, sul bordo della scheda logica dalla parte più vicina alla batteria.
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Se la cover non si stacca facilmente, applica una modesta quantità di calore con un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante e prova di nuovo.
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Stacca il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.
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Usa uno spudger per alzare delicatamente la linguetta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.
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Fai scorrere lateralmente il cavo della scheda dati della batteria fuori dal suo zoccolo e rimuovi del tutto il cavo.
Bonjour, super Tuto, petite question elle sert a quoi cette nappe , et quesqui se passe si elle est pas branché ?
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Usa uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria, scollegando la batteria stessa.
Put a little bit of insulating tape over the terminal to be safe.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 3,5 mm che fissano la cover disposta sopra il cavo flessibile della scheda del display.
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Rimuovi la cover del cavo flessibile della scheda del display.
T3 or T4? I almost damage the screw trying with the T3.
I’d say T4 as T3 was definitely too small
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,7 mm che bloccano la staffa del connettore del cavo della scheda del display.
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Rimuovi la staffa dal connettore del cavo del display.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le quattro viti da 3,3 mm che bloccano la scheda del display.
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Accertati che il cavo flessibile del display resti sopra la scheda, non intrappolato al di sotto di essa.
When reassembling, I found that I had to press in on the outer edge of the antenna (top edge when looking at the picture) at the midpoint between the left 8 screws and the right 8 screws as I screwed the display board screws in. I found that the outside antenna edge would otherwise rub against the display halfway through opening it making a pop sound. Installing this way fixed the problem.
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Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P2 per rimuovere le sedici viti da 1,5 mm che fissano il gruppo dell'antenna.
I’m having difficulty removing the screws. I’m not sure if the p2 screwdriver is defective but I am now stuck at this step.
We had 4 MBP's that I removed the displays from. On this step, I stripped a 'middle' screw on each side.
On the second one, I also noticed the middle screws didn't exactly want to easily come loose as I worked my way down the row.
I wound up putting all screws back in, loosened then tightened the screw on the opposite end, then removed the two in the middle (without issue), then an outside screw going back and forth, until I just had one on each end. Since I had already removed and replaced them, they came out without issue.
I used this method on the remaining 2 MBP's and had no further issues.
YMMV and it may not even be necessary. Just seemed removing the screws from end to end put enough pressure on the remaining ones that they were harder to remove. Whereas a patterned removal seemed to resolve that 'issue'.
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Se prevedi di riutilizzare lo schermo, aprilo e applica un pezzo di nastro adesivo sul vetro direttamente in corrispondenza di ciascuna cerniera. Questa precauzione aiuterà a proteggere il vetro da rigature nel corso del passo successivo.
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Apri lo schermo in posizione di lavoro e disponi il tuo MacBook Pro su un fianco.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T8 per rimuovere le due viti da 4,9 mm rimaste nella cerniere (una per ciascuna cerniera).
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Rimuovi per ultima la vite che resta in alto, usando una mano per stabilizzare le due metà del MacBook Pro e fare in modo che non possano separarsi e cadere accidentalmente.
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Confronta il pezzo sostituito con quello originale, potresti dover trasferire componenti rimasti sulla vecchia parte o rimuovere adesivi sul retro del componente nuovo prima di installarlo.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Vai sulla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
Confronta il pezzo sostituito con quello originale, potresti dover trasferire componenti rimasti sulla vecchia parte o rimuovere adesivi sul retro del componente nuovo prima di installarlo.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Vai sulla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
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18 Commenti
where can I purchase an lcd screen for this computer?
hai jeff. Is that possible I can revive my screen not to buy a new one, instead of replacing 3 pairs of flexible cable? thanks
To reiterate Ron’s request - you’ve shown me how to fix the screen (thank you!) without showing me where/how to purchase the replacement?
Banggodd or AliExpress but ta
Apple sry to get a genuine Apple screen as ‘compatibles’ may not pass in built Apple security- more expensive but can save a lot of heartache and later expense.
For everyone looking for screen replacements the short story is you cannot get them. Apple has prohibited their source from selling the assemblies to third parties. 3rd parties attempting to make their own have had them seized by customs. The only way to get one at this current time is from another device. However you may have issues using a display from another laptop even if it is the exact same model as apple will notice it is an unauthorized repair. This is a textbook example of apple’s illegal practices in regards to right to repair. You can read more about this here https://uspirg.org/feature/usp/right-rep...
Does anyone know if you can remove the MacBook screen and just use the keyboard mouse pad etc and connect to a monitor screen without attaching back a new screen? Thanks!
I changed the screen following this guide. The screen works but the camera of the new screen does not work and the backlight of the keyboard its not working (when turning on the computer the lights of the keyboard works but after login in with my password the backlight stops working). I tried nvram reset and pram reset and the problem is still there. If someone knows something about this please help me!
what is the part number for the screen?
Hi, I tried to repair/check my 2018 mac 15”screen and when I finished i cant get the mac to charge… have I broken the dam thing? battery flat?
Hi,
Great guide thank you. Unfortunately during reassembly, 1 of the 3 antenna cable's conector broke. It's the long one. the machine itself works perfect, wifi and Bluetooth still work. Does anyone know what that longer antenna cable does?
Just wondering if it's really necessary for me to purchase and replace the antenna assembly all together.
Thank you
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Replica
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Replica
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Replica
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Replica
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Replica
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Replica
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Replica
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Replica
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Replica
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Replica
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Replica
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'
to display the current state, the default istrue
- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=false
which turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Replica
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Replica
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Replica
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Replica
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Replica
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd
(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Replica
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Replica
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Replica
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Replica
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Replica
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Replica
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Replica
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Replica
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Replica
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -