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Pericolo

Introduzione

Se il tuo iMac era configurato con un SSD o un Fusion Drive, include un SSD Blade sul retro della scheda logica. Usa questa guida per accedere e rimuovere l'SSD Blade.

Prima di iniziare qualsiasi lavoro sul proprio iMac: Stacca il computer dall'alimentazione, premi e tieni premuto il tasto d'accensione per 10 secondi per scaricare i condensatori dell'alimentatore.

Stai molto attento a non toccare i connettori dei condensatori o qualsiasi saldatura scoperta sul retro della scheda di alimentazione. Maneggiala solo dai lati.

  1. Iniziando dalla sinistra del display, vicino al tasto di accensione, inserisci iMac Opening Tool nello spazio tra il vetro e la scocca posteriore. Il perno dell'iMac Opening Tool eviterà che la rotella entri troppo all'interno. Se userai un attrezzo diverso, ineriscilo non più di 9,5mm nel display. Potresti rovinare i cavi dell'antenna e causare gravi danni. Il perno dell'iMac Opening Tool eviterà che la rotella entri troppo all'interno. Se userai un attrezzo diverso, ineriscilo non più di 9,5mm nel display. Potresti rovinare i cavi dell'antenna e causare gravi danni.
    • Iniziando dalla sinistra del display, vicino al tasto di accensione, inserisci iMac Opening Tool nello spazio tra il vetro e la scocca posteriore.

    • Il perno dell'iMac Opening Tool eviterà che la rotella entri troppo all'interno. Se userai un attrezzo diverso, ineriscilo non più di 9,5mm nel display. Potresti rovinare i cavi dell'antenna e causare gravi danni.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Replica

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Replica

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Replica

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Replica

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - Replica

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - Replica

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - Replica

  2. Usa l'attrezzo come una rotella tagliapizza - fallo girare nella fessura per taglierà la parte centrale dell'adesivo in schiuma. Assicurati di spingere l'impugnatura dietro la rotella. Se tirassi, la rotella potrebbe uscire dal manico. Fai scorrere l'attrezzo lungo la parte sinistra del display.
    • Usa l'attrezzo come una rotella tagliapizza - fallo girare nella fessura per taglierà la parte centrale dell'adesivo in schiuma.

    • Assicurati di spingere l'impugnatura dietro la rotella. Se tirassi, la rotella potrebbe uscire dal manico.

    • Fai scorrere l'attrezzo lungo la parte sinistra del display.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Replica

  3. Continua a far scorrere la rotella lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro. Continua a far scorrere la rotella lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro. Continua a far scorrere la rotella lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro.
    • Continua a far scorrere la rotella lungo l'angolo superiore sinistro.

  4. Taglia l'adesivo lungo la parte superiore sinistra del display. Taglia l'adesivo lungo la parte superiore sinistra del display.
    • Taglia l'adesivo lungo la parte superiore sinistra del display.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

  5. Continua lungo la aprte superiore del display. Puoi far scorrere la rotella avanti e indietro per assicurarti di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.
    • Continua lungo la aprte superiore del display.

    • Puoi far scorrere la rotella avanti e indietro per assicurarti di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.

  6. Spingi l'attrezzo intorno all'angolo superiore destro del display. Spingi l'attrezzo intorno all'angolo superiore destro del display. Spingi l'attrezzo intorno all'angolo superiore destro del display.
    • Spingi l'attrezzo intorno all'angolo superiore destro del display.

  7. Fai scorrere la rotella lungo il lato destro del display. Fai scorrere la rotella lungo il lato destro del display.
    • Fai scorrere la rotella lungo il lato destro del display.

  8. Finisci di spingere lo strumento di apertura fino alla parte bassa del lato destro del display. A questo punto potresti far scorrere l'attrezzo avanti e indietro per assicurarti di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.
    • Finisci di spingere lo strumento di apertura fino alla parte bassa del lato destro del display.

    • A questo punto potresti far scorrere l'attrezzo avanti e indietro per assicurarti di separare il più possibile l'adesivo.

  9. Quando lo strumento di apertura avrà fatto la maggior parte del lavoro, il display sarà ancora leggermente attaccato al case. Servirà una scheda di plastica per staccare l'adesivo rimanente. Posiziona l'iMac a faccia in su sopra un tavolo. Partendo dall'angolo superiore destro, inserisci una scheda di plastica tra il display e il telaio.
    • Quando lo strumento di apertura avrà fatto la maggior parte del lavoro, il display sarà ancora leggermente attaccato al case. Servirà una scheda di plastica per staccare l'adesivo rimanente.

    • Posiziona l'iMac a faccia in su sopra un tavolo.

    • Partendo dall'angolo superiore destro, inserisci una scheda di plastica tra il display e il telaio.

    • Fai attenzione a non inserire la scheda più di 9,5 mm per non danneggiare i componenti interni.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Replica

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Replica

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Replica

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - Replica

  10. Torci delicatamente la scheda di plastica per allargare la fessura tra il display e la scocca e taglia l'adesivo rimanente vicino agli angoli. Usare troppa forza potrebbe rompere il vetro. Lavora con attenzione e non provare ad allargare la fessura oltre 6 mm circa.
    • Torci delicatamente la scheda di plastica per allargare la fessura tra il display e la scocca e taglia l'adesivo rimanente vicino agli angoli.

    • Usare troppa forza potrebbe rompere il vetro. Lavora con attenzione e non provare ad allargare la fessura oltre 6 mm circa.

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

  11. In questo passo, assicurati di interrompere il taglio prima della fotocamera iSight o potresti danneggiarla. Fai scorrere la scheda verso il centro del display per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente. Fai scorrere la scheda verso il centro del display per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente.
    • In questo passo, assicurati di interrompere il taglio prima della fotocamera iSight o potresti danneggiarla.

    • Fai scorrere la scheda verso il centro del display per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Replica

  12. Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo e lasciala lì per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi. Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo e lasciala lì per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi.
    • Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo e lasciala lì per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi.

  13. Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro. Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro. Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro.
    • Inserisci una seconda scheda nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo superiore sinistro.

  14. Torci delicatamente la scheda, allargando lievemente la fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca. Come per l'altro lato, procedi lentamente per dar tempo all'adesivo di staccarsi e fai attenzione a non sollecitare troppo il vetro.
    • Torci delicatamente la scheda, allargando lievemente la fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca.

    • Come per l'altro lato, procedi lentamente per dar tempo all'adesivo di staccarsi e fai attenzione a non sollecitare troppo il vetro.

  15. Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermati anche questa volta prima della fotocamera iSight. Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermati anche questa volta prima della fotocamera iSight. Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermati anche questa volta prima della fotocamera iSight.
    • Fai scorrere la scheda di plastica verso il centro, fermati anche questa volta prima della fotocamera iSight.

  16. Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo superiore sinistro. Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo superiore sinistro.
    • Inserisci di nuovo la scheda nell'angolo superiore sinistro.

  17. Solleva il display solo di pochi centimetri - è ancora collegato all'iMac dai cavi dati e alimentazione. Con le schede inserite come mostrato vicino agli angoli, torci delicatamente le schede stesse per allargare la fessura tra display e scocca. Se c'è ancora qualche punto che sembra incollato e non vuole separarsi, smetti di torcere le schede e usane una per tagliare l'adesivo in quel punto.
    • Solleva il display solo di pochi centimetri - è ancora collegato all'iMac dai cavi dati e alimentazione.

    • Con le schede inserite come mostrato vicino agli angoli, torci delicatamente le schede stesse per allargare la fessura tra display e scocca.

    • Se c'è ancora qualche punto che sembra incollato e non vuole separarsi, smetti di torcere le schede e usane una per tagliare l'adesivo in quel punto.

    • Comincia a sollevare dalla scocca la parte superiore dello schermo.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Replica

  18. Mentre tieni lo schermo con una mano, usa l'altra per scollegare il cavo di alimentazione del display. Solleva il display quanto basta per raggiungere i contatti ma non troppo per evitare di sollecitare i cavi e i connettori (circa 20 cm).
    • Mentre tieni lo schermo con una mano, usa l'altra per scollegare il cavo di alimentazione del display.

    • Solleva il display quanto basta per raggiungere i contatti ma non troppo per evitare di sollecitare i cavi e i connettori (circa 20 cm).

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Replica

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Replica

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Replica

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - Replica

  19. Solleva la piastra metallica che assicura il cavo dati del display. Scollega il cavo dati dello schermo. Questa è una connessione delicata che può rompersi facilmente. Assicurati di estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display direttamente dal suo zoccolo, tirandolo verso parte superiore dell'iMac.
    • Solleva la piastra metallica che assicura il cavo dati del display.

    • Scollega il cavo dati dello schermo.

    • Questa è una connessione delicata che può rompersi facilmente. Assicurati di estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display direttamente dal suo zoccolo, tirandolo verso parte superiore dell'iMac.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Replica

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Replica

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Replica

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Replica

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Replica

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Replica

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - Replica

  20. Solleva il display in posizione quasi verticale. A questo punto ci sarà sempre una striscia di adesivo nella parte inferiore del display che lo terrà incollato alla scocca come una cerniera. Puoi allentare questo adesivo muovendo il display su e giù per alcune volte.
    • Solleva il display in posizione quasi verticale.

    • A questo punto ci sarà sempre una striscia di adesivo nella parte inferiore del display che lo terrà incollato alla scocca come una cerniera. Puoi allentare questo adesivo muovendo il display su e giù per alcune volte.

    • Rimuovi più adesivo possibile afferrandolo agli angoli e tirandolo o arrotolandolo in direzione del centro.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Replica

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Replica

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Replica

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Replica

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Replica

  21. Kits di riparazione iPhone X

    Garanzia finita? Non preoccuparti, abbiamo la soluzione.

    Acquista ora

    Kits di riparazione iPhone X

    Garanzia finita? Non preoccuparti, abbiamo la soluzione.

    Acquista ora
  22. Se necessario, puoi usare una scheda di plastica per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente. Attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualunque punto di saldatura esposto sul retro dell'alimentatore (riquadro rosso). Attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualunque punto di saldatura esposto sul retro dell'alimentatore (riquadro rosso).
    • Se necessario, puoi usare una scheda di plastica per tagliare l'adesivo rimanente.

    • Attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualunque punto di saldatura esposto sul retro dell'alimentatore (riquadro rosso).

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Replica

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Replica

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Replica

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Replica

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Replica

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - Replica

  23. Fai attenzione a maneggiare il display - è grande, pesante e fatto di vetro. Il display ha i bordi fragili. Evita di sollevarlo dagli angoli. Solleva il display dalla scocca e rimuovilo dall'iMac. Appoggia il display faccia in giù su una superficie piana e morbida. Potrebbe essere necessario sollevare lentamente lo schermo da una parte per staccare l'adesivo rimanente.
    • Fai attenzione a maneggiare il display - è grande, pesante e fatto di vetro. Il display ha i bordi fragili. Evita di sollevarlo dagli angoli.

    • Solleva il display dalla scocca e rimuovilo dall'iMac. Appoggia il display faccia in giù su una superficie piana e morbida.

    • Potrebbe essere necessario sollevare lentamente lo schermo da una parte per staccare l'adesivo rimanente.

    • Dopo che l'adesivo è stato tagliato, non può essere riutilizzato per riattaccare il display. segui questa guida quando la tua riparazione sarà completa per sostituire le strisce adesive e assicurare il display alla scocca.

  24. Se stai sostituendo il pannello display, dovrai trasferire i componenti aggiuntivi dal vecchio al nuovo pannello. Confronta il retro del vechio display con il ricambio. Controlla tutti i cavi, sensori e i cuscinetti ammortizzatori che mancano al nuovo display.
    • Se stai sostituendo il pannello display, dovrai trasferire i componenti aggiuntivi dal vecchio al nuovo pannello. Confronta il retro del vechio display con il ricambio. Controlla tutti i cavi, sensori e i cuscinetti ammortizzatori che mancano al nuovo display.

    • Se c'è un cavo sotto un nastro adesivo, tira via sempre il nastro adesivo prima di tutto.

    • Se il cavo è incollato al telaio, usa un iOpener riscaldato o un asciugacapelli per ammorbidire la colla. Dopo potrai inserire un plettro sotto il cavo per liberarlo. Non tirare mai direttamente connettori delicati.

    • Fai scorrere un plettro sotto i cuscinetti ammortizzatori per separarli dal display e tirali via delicatamente. Potresti aver bisogno di nastro biadesivo per riattaccarli sul nuovo display.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Replica

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Replica

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Replica

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - Replica

    • Con il perno libero di muoversi, l'iMac sarà sbilanciato e sarà difficile lavorarci sopra. Le riparazioni possono essere fatte con l'iMac a faccia in giù, ma sono più veloci e facili con un cuneo di supporto per iMac.

    Incomplete guidance . Does not say how to transfer cables such as thermal sensor .

    Yuan - Replica

  25. Rimuovi due viti Torx T10 da 10,0 mm.
    • Rimuovi due viti Torx T10 da 10,0 mm.

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - Replica

  26. Disconnetti il cavo dello speaker sinistro  dalla sua porta sulla scheda madre.  Stai attento a sfilare  il cavo  rimanendo sull'asse della presa. Sfila il cavo dalla fessura tra l'hard drive e la scheda madre. Se la fessura tra hard drive e scheda madre è troppo sottile per il cavo dell'altoparlante, disconnettilo e lascia il cavo dov'è.
    • Disconnetti il cavo dello speaker sinistro dalla sua porta sulla scheda madre. Stai attento a sfilare il cavo rimanendo sull'asse della presa.

    • Sfila il cavo dalla fessura tra l'hard drive e la scheda madre.

    • Se la fessura tra hard drive e scheda madre è troppo sottile per il cavo dell'altoparlante, disconnettilo e lascia il cavo dov'è.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

  27. Stai attento a non toccare nessuna saldatura sul retro dell'alimentatore. I condensatori potrebbero essere abbastanza carichi da darti uno shock elettrico pericoloso. Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del pulsante di accensione dalla sua sede sulla scheda madre. Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del pulsante di accensione dalla sua sede sulla scheda madre.
    • Stai attento a non toccare nessuna saldatura sul retro dell'alimentatore. I condensatori potrebbero essere abbastanza carichi da darti uno shock elettrico pericoloso.

    • Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del pulsante di accensione dalla sua sede sulla scheda madre.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Replica

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Replica

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Replica

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - Replica

  28. Solleva con attenzione l'altoparlante sinistro fino a quando il cavo del pulsante di accensione è visibile (1-2 cm). Solleva con attenzione l'altoparlante sinistro fino a quando il cavo del pulsante di accensione è visibile (1-2 cm).
    • Solleva con attenzione l'altoparlante sinistro fino a quando il cavo del pulsante di accensione è visibile (1-2 cm).

  29. Sfila delicatamente il cavo del pulsante di accensione  dal suo incavo sull'altoparlante sinistro. Sfila delicatamente il cavo del pulsante di accensione  dal suo incavo sull'altoparlante sinistro. Sfila delicatamente il cavo del pulsante di accensione  dal suo incavo sull'altoparlante sinistro.
    • Sfila delicatamente il cavo del pulsante di accensione dal suo incavo sull'altoparlante sinistro.

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - Replica

  30. Solleva l'altoparlante sinistro e toglilo dall'iMac. Se la fessura tra hard drive e scheda madre è troppo sottile per liberare il cavo dell'altoparlante, tira fuori il cavo mentre rimuovi l'altoparlante. Spingi dalla parte terminale del connettore mentre  tiri dalla parte terminale dell'altoparlante per infilare il cavo sotto  il supporto destro dell'hard drive.
    • Solleva l'altoparlante sinistro e toglilo dall'iMac.

    • Se la fessura tra hard drive e scheda madre è troppo sottile per liberare il cavo dell'altoparlante, tira fuori il cavo mentre rimuovi l'altoparlante.

    • Spingi dalla parte terminale del connettore mentre tiri dalla parte terminale dell'altoparlante per infilare il cavo sotto il supporto destro dell'hard drive.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Replica

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

  31. Tira verso l'alto il cavo SATA dati/alimentazione per disconnetterlo dal disco. Tira verso l'alto il cavo SATA dati/alimentazione per disconnetterlo dal disco.
    • Tira verso l'alto il cavo SATA dati/alimentazione per disconnetterlo dal disco.

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - Replica

  32. Rimuovi le due viti Torx T10 da 7,3 mm che fissano al case il supporto di sinistra del disco.
    • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T10 da 7,3 mm che fissano al case il supporto di sinistra del disco.

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - Replica

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - Replica

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - Replica

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - Replica

  33. Afferra il disco rigido insieme al suo supporto. Inclina verso l'alto il lato sinistro e fai scorrere l'insieme verso sinistra. Rimuovi il disco rigido e il suo supporto sinistro dall'iMac.
    • Afferra il disco rigido insieme al suo supporto.

    • Inclina verso l'alto il lato sinistro e fai scorrere l'insieme verso sinistra.

    • Rimuovi il disco rigido e il suo supporto sinistro dall'iMac.

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - Replica

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - Replica

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - Replica

  34. Rimuovi il supporto sinistro del disco rigido. Rimuovi il supporto sinistro del disco rigido.
    • Rimuovi il supporto sinistro del disco rigido.

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

  35. Quando si lavora sull'alimentatore fai molta attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualsiasi saldatura esposta sul retro dell'alimentatore. Maneggia la scheda solo dagli angoli. Disconnetti il cavo di controllo dall'alimentatore.
    • Quando si lavora sull'alimentatore fai molta attenzione a non toccare i contatti dei condensatori o qualsiasi saldatura esposta sul retro dell'alimentatore. Maneggia la scheda solo dagli angoli.

    • Disconnetti il cavo di controllo dall'alimentatore.

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - Replica

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - Replica

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - Replica

  36. Rimuovi le seguenti 4 viti che fissano l'alimentatore al case (T8 o T10 a seconda del modello)
    • Rimuovi le seguenti 4 viti che fissano l'alimentatore al case (T8 o T10 a seconda del modello)

    • 2 viti Torx da 23,7 mm

    • 2 viti Torx da 7,3 mm

    In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

    Morgan Crossley - Replica

    Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

    smudge -

    My late 2015 model has these as T8 screws.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

    Late 2015- T8 as well!! Check out this Powerbook Medic teardown video as a cross reference guide!!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81PjGv8B...

    lamajr - Replica

  37. Non tentare di rimuovere l'alimentatore dal case; è ancora fissato alla scheda logica da due cavi. Sposta la scheda dell'alimentatore verso il bordo sinistro del case e verso l'alto per liberarla dall'incavo nella scheda logica. Sposta la scheda dell'alimentatore verso il bordo sinistro del case e verso l'alto per liberarla dall'incavo nella scheda logica.
    • Non tentare di rimuovere l'alimentatore dal case; è ancora fissato alla scheda logica da due cavi.

    • Sposta la scheda dell'alimentatore verso il bordo sinistro del case e verso l'alto per liberarla dall'incavo nella scheda logica.

  38. Premi la linguetta sul connettore del cavo di alimentazione DC, quindi estrai il connettore dalla sua presa sul retro della scheda logica. Premi la linguetta sul connettore del cavo di alimentazione DC, quindi estrai il connettore dalla sua presa sul retro della scheda logica.
    • Premi la linguetta sul connettore del cavo di alimentazione DC, quindi estrai il connettore dalla sua presa sul retro della scheda logica.

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - Replica

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - Replica

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - Replica

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Replica

  39. Fai molta attenzione a non toccare i condensatori o qualsiasi saldatura esposta sul retro dell'alimentatore. Maneggia la scheda solo dagli angoli. Capovolgi verso di te la parte superiore dell'alimentatore per rivelare il connettore del cavo di ingresso AC. Scollega il connettore del cavo di ingresso CA.
    • Fai molta attenzione a non toccare i condensatori o qualsiasi saldatura esposta sul retro dell'alimentatore. Maneggia la scheda solo dagli angoli.

    • Capovolgi verso di te la parte superiore dell'alimentatore per rivelare il connettore del cavo di ingresso AC.

    • Scollega il connettore del cavo di ingresso CA.

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - Replica

  40. Rimuovi due viti Torx T10 da 10,0 mm.
    • Rimuovi due viti Torx T10 da 10,0 mm.

  41. Inclina lievemente l'altoparlante verso destra per aver accesso alla connessione del suo cavo sulla scheda logica. Inclina lievemente l'altoparlante verso destra per aver accesso alla connessione del suo cavo sulla scheda logica.
    • Inclina lievemente l'altoparlante verso destra per aver accesso alla connessione del suo cavo sulla scheda logica.

  42. Usa uno spudger per allentare il connettore del cavo dell'altoparlante dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Tira il connettore verso destra per rimuoverlo dalla sua presa. Tira il connettore verso destra per rimuoverlo dalla sua presa.
    • Usa uno spudger per allentare il connettore del cavo dell'altoparlante dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Tira il connettore verso destra per rimuoverlo dalla sua presa.

  43. Solleva l'altoparlante per rimuoverlo dall'iMac. Solleva l'altoparlante per rimuoverlo dall'iMac. Solleva l'altoparlante per rimuoverlo dall'iMac.
    • Solleva l'altoparlante per rimuoverlo dall'iMac.

    Did this tonight. I couldn’t get the right speaker out. But I was able to move it far enough to the right to be out of the way of the logic board.

    Kenneth Cluff - Replica

  44. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per scollegare i connettori dei cavi dalla presa nella scheda logica. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per scollegare i connettori dei cavi dalla presa nella scheda logica. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per scollegare i connettori dei cavi dalla presa nella scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per scollegare i connettori dei cavi dalla presa nella scheda logica.

  45. Distacca parzialmente il nastro adesivo nero che connette la ventola al condotto di scarico. Lascia il nastro sul condotto di scarico, ti basta solo esporre la giunzione per liberare la ventola.
    • Distacca parzialmente il nastro adesivo nero che connette la ventola al condotto di scarico.

    • Lascia il nastro sul condotto di scarico, ti basta solo esporre la giunzione per liberare la ventola.

  46. Rimuovi tre viti Torx T10 da 12,4 mm che fissano la ventola al case posteriore.
    • Rimuovi tre viti Torx T10 da 12,4 mm che fissano la ventola al case posteriore.

  47. Rimuovi la ventola dall'iMac. Rimuovi la ventola dall'iMac.
    • Rimuovi la ventola dall'iMac.

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - Replica

  48. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere ciascuno dei quattro connettori delle antenne dalla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth. Prendi nota delle posizioni di ogni connettore durante la riconnessione dei cavi. Da destra a sinistra, le antenne sono connesse in quest'ordine: Il più a sinistra
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere ciascuno dei quattro connettori delle antenne dalla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.

    • Prendi nota delle posizioni di ogni connettore durante la riconnessione dei cavi. Da destra a sinistra, le antenne sono connesse in quest'ordine:

    • Il più a sinistra

    • Il più in alto

    • Quello in alto a destra

    • Quello in basso a destra

    My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

    Greg Freeman - Replica

    My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

    Joseph Yang - Replica

    My 2017 has long WI-Fi card, It’s It’s a M.2, cuz no remove antenna. Undo WI-Fi card fix screws and pull out card. Easy one.

    Tanya Chachanova - Replica

  49. Questa è una connessione molto delicata che si può rompere facilmente. Ruota verso l'alto la staffa di fissaggio in metallo del cavo della fotocamera iSight. Tira il connettore del cavo della fotocamera verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.
    • Questa è una connessione molto delicata che si può rompere facilmente.

    • Ruota verso l'alto la staffa di fissaggio in metallo del cavo della fotocamera iSight.

    • Tira il connettore del cavo della fotocamera verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

    During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

    Tony Ross - Replica

  50. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo del jack cuffie dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Spingi delicatamente il cavo dove non dia fastidio. Spingi delicatamente il cavo dove non dia fastidio.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo del jack cuffie dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Spingi delicatamente il cavo dove non dia fastidio.

  51. Rimuovere le seguenti viti Torx dalla parte anteriore della scheda logica: Due viti T10 da 23,7 mm
    • Rimuovere le seguenti viti Torx dalla parte anteriore della scheda logica:

    • Due viti T10 da 23,7 mm

    • Quattro viti T10 da 7,4 mm

    • Una vite T25 da 20,8 mm

    • Una vite T10 prigioniera

    • Questa vite è sotto un foro nella scheda logica. Servirà un cacciavite fisso o l'estensione da 60 mm di un kit cacciaviti iFixit per raggiungerla.

    The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

    MrSchaeffer - Replica

    On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

    Konrad Skeri Ekblad - Replica

    I’ve also found an extra T10 in my late 2015 iMac

    luis - Replica

    My 2017 has small flat cable and connector on logic board. And all screws are changed to T 9

    Tanya Chachanova - Replica

    Note: the T25 spacer is behind and to the left of the logic board and below the HDD bracket.

    Tom - Replica

  52. Il cavo SATA del disco fisso non può ancora essere rimosso, ma sarà d'intralcio durante la rimozione della scheda logica. Tirare il cavo e il connettore attraverso il supporto di destra del disco fisso. Sposta il cavo sul lato destro dell'iMac, dove non interferisca con il condotto di scarico. Tirare il cavo e il connettore attraverso il supporto di destra del disco fisso. Sposta il cavo sul lato destro dell'iMac, dove non interferisca con il condotto di scarico.
    • Il cavo SATA del disco fisso non può ancora essere rimosso, ma sarà d'intralcio durante la rimozione della scheda logica.

    • Tirare il cavo e il connettore attraverso il supporto di destra del disco fisso. Sposta il cavo sul lato destro dell'iMac, dove non interferisca con il condotto di scarico.

    Anyone know if models that shipped with only a bladed SSD have the SATA cable still inside? I’m guessing probably not, but haven’t been able to confirm anywhere.

    Jesse Mitchell - Replica

    The cable was so stiff, I didn’t try to pull it through the bracket. Instead I removed the upper screw holding the right HDD bracket in place. Then I rotated it counter clockwise enough to just move the cable behind it and out of the way. Once I did that, I screwed the bracket back into place. I reversed the process when I put the machine back together. It’s a Torx-10 BTW.

    Kenneth Cluff - Replica

  53. Rimuovi due viti Torx T10 da 5,7 mm dalla parte superiore del condotto di scarico del dissipatore.
    • Rimuovi due viti Torx T10 da 5,7 mm dalla parte superiore del condotto di scarico del dissipatore.

    My model (2015) had another screw holding the heatsink duct and a stand-off holding the whole thing attached to the back. Even gently moving the logic board almost got the duct damaged till I realised what was going on so I’d suggest to be careful and DO NOT pull the logic board if it looks like it’s still attached - most likely it is!

    Carlos Ferrari - Replica

  54. Inclina leggermente in avanti la scheda logica. Alzare la scheda logica direttamente verso l'alto e fuori dall'iMac. Attenzione a non impigliarti in nessuna delle sedi a colonna delle viti all'interno del case posteriore. Alzare la scheda logica direttamente verso l'alto e fuori dall'iMac. Attenzione a non impigliarti in nessuna delle sedi a colonna delle viti all'interno del case posteriore.
    • Inclina leggermente in avanti la scheda logica.

    • Alzare la scheda logica direttamente verso l'alto e fuori dall'iMac. Attenzione a non impigliarti in nessuna delle sedi a colonna delle viti all'interno del case posteriore.

    You should add a step about removing the sata cable here. When following the directions in reverse I forgot to put in back on and had to remove the motherboard again.

    Ken Prows - Replica

  55. Nel riassemblaggio dell'iMac, stai molto attenti all'allineamento delle porte I/O esterne. La scheda logica potrebbe essere disallineata anche se fissata con tutte le sue viti. E' possibile usare una chiavetta USB o un cavo ethernet per essere sicuri che l'allineamento della scheda logica sia corretto mentre la fissi con le viti.
    • Nel riassemblaggio dell'iMac, stai molto attenti all'allineamento delle porte I/O esterne. La scheda logica potrebbe essere disallineata anche se fissata con tutte le sue viti.

    • E' possibile usare una chiavetta USB o un cavo ethernet per essere sicuri che l'allineamento della scheda logica sia corretto mentre la fissi con le viti.

    To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

    Alex Grayson - Replica

  56. Tira verso l'alto il connettore del cavo SATA per scollegarlo. Scollega il connettore del cavo SATA tirandolo verso l'alto. Rimuovi il cavo SATA dal gruppo della scheda logica e spostalo in un punto dove non interferisca per prevenire un eventuale danneggiamento.
    • Tira verso l'alto il connettore del cavo SATA per scollegarlo.

    • Scollega il connettore del cavo SATA tirandolo verso l'alto.

    • Rimuovi il cavo SATA dal gruppo della scheda logica e spostalo in un punto dove non interferisca per prevenire un eventuale danneggiamento.

    Where is this cable sold

    mert - Replica

    Is this picture correct with 7 pins? Or is it form the 5k version? (See comments on that case below).

    There is an cable on eBay with 5 pins.

    Steve Nilsen - Replica

    This guide was written the year before the 5K model first came out. The cable in the photo is definitely for the model listed, although it’s always possible Apple made more than one variation.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Hey, if you got this far and your iMac is getting along in years, maybe pick up a BR2032 battery and replace the PRAM battery while you’re at it, as you have to get to this point to access it.

    Tom - Replica

  57. Rimuovi la singola vite Torx T8 da 5,3 mm che fissa l'SSD alla scheda logica.
    • Rimuovi la singola vite Torx T8 da 5,3 mm che fissa l'SSD alla scheda logica.

    What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

    Peter - Replica

    Where can we buy and SSD like that?

    i found this one on amazon... it is not specified for imac ...

    http://www.amazon.ca/OWC-2012-2013-MacBo...

    Création site web http://www.bionique.net

    bioniqueultra - Replica

    I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat...

    Shaheen Ghiassy - Replica

  58. Per evitare di danneggiare il connettore, non alzare troppo l'estremità dell'SSD. Solleva lievemente  l'estremità dell'SSD e tiralo direttamente fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Durante la reinstallazione dell'SSD, assicurati che sia posizionato correttamente prima di reinstallare la sua vite di fissaggio.
    • Per evitare di danneggiare il connettore, non alzare troppo l'estremità dell'SSD.

    • Solleva lievemente l'estremità dell'SSD e tiralo direttamente fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Durante la reinstallazione dell'SSD, assicurati che sia posizionato correttamente prima di reinstallare la sua vite di fissaggio.

    this ssd is not for a late 2013!

    this is 2012 year

    cslbox - Replica

    What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

    Which part I need?

    MrSchaeffer -

    I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

    Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

    Brent -

    Actually the picture show the late 2012 pcie connector. (8+18 pins)

    (http://www.macbidouille.com/articles/488...)

    .

    After late 2013, (21.5", 27" and 27" 5K) the connector has changed. (12+16 pins)

    (http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...)

    .

    (You can see the actual one here : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown)

    .

    After late 2013, you can only place a MacBook Pro late 2013 and after ssd !!

    Cecil His Mahier -

    which ssd used in this tutorial ?

    where can I buy ?

    ;)

    AlexFull - Replica

    I Use a little bit of glue to fix the ssd pcie to the logic board

    MrSchaeffer - Replica

    Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

    Lok - Replica

    Thanks Cecil His Mahier

    hope you are right

    i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

    to put it in iMac 27 late 2015

    hope it will work

    Fanny Augier - Replica

    Just wondering if the SSD worked with your Imac

    "i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

    Jack Watkins -

    yes this is the good one

    but now i plugged the ssd

    the imac don't want to start, power supply is ok ( i tested it ), but the LEDs of the logic board are all OFF

    can someone help me ? is my logic board dead or there is special move to do when you plug something ?

    Fanny Augier -

    For people knowledge :

    i have iMac 5k late 2015

    i put exactly this SSD on it :

    https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    IT IS WORKING !

    ( i bought it on market like eBay )

    Fanny Augier -

    i got iMac 5k late 2015

    i confirm the SSD you can see here is working : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown

    i buy it on eBay

    Fanny Augier -

    I purchased the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 2015 5K iMac from here: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat.... Worked like a charm on High Sierra with zero hiccups. Great vendor!

    (P.S: I’m not associated with the company in any way)

    Shaheen Ghiassy - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso e usa la nostra guida alla sostituzione delle strisce adesive per riattaccare il vetro del display.

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Sam Goldheart

Membro da: 18/10/2012

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Does it mean that I can install Mavericks to the new hard drive rather than Yosemite for imac retina new model. I really dont like Yosemite.

ulas sunar - Replica

Hello,

So i have maxed out version of 2014 iMac 5k with 3TB fusion drive. I am looking to replace above described SSD with crucial 920 gb ssd. Is there other brands of compatible ssd's you would recommend? Will this new ssd still act as fusion drive or can I install OS X separately on it?

Thanks

romanvm - Replica

If I want to swap the fusion drive with a SSD, do I need to remove the SSD-part of the fusion drive as well or can it be left behind?

mhjvdven - Replica

Yes - you can leave it behind but at some point you will need to reformat and break the fusion into the 2 separate drives that actually there. Please backup first as this is a data destructive operation.

Chip T -

Does anybody know if 5K Retina iMacs purchased *without* Fusion Drives come with SSD connectors inside?

loccie - Replica

Answering my own question: YES

loccie -

What type of the SSD is used for the imac 5K.

nuieskater - Replica

check my post. I only found used in ebay, and I am not sure about the amperage.

I also not mentioned that there are some 1tb that are larger than the smallers gb. But that seems be ok

Alber Einsten -

I just bought the late 2015 27 5k imac (fusion drive 1tb) and I intent to upgrade everything on it

since in the teardown we see this is the same ssd that was in the macbook pro retina 13" late 2013, and until 2015 macbook pro did not changed the ssd type... I looked for it on ebay, a lot of seller sell those apple used SSDs from some sellers include a Compatible list:

Mac Pro Late 2013 and newer

iMac Late 2013-

Mac mini 2014

Macbook Pro Late 2013-

MacBook Air 13 and 11" 2013-

size, pins, and voltage are always the same, but there is some variations in the Ampere spech. I tried find something about but I couldn't discovery if it will be relevant.

There are 2 and 4 lanes versions (4 is faster)

also there are samsung and sandisk options (any doubt abou the better?)

I ignored the amperage diference and bought one that is 2,5A (samsung MZ-JPU256T/0A6). the late 2015 came with a no specified manufacturer and no specs on it. I did right or a mistake?

Alber Einsten - Replica

Hello ....did you test it ? Works Ok on iMac 5K - Late 2015 - 17.1 ? Thank you !!!

ysaine -

I want to do the same thing, did this work for you?

michael -

Vey sorry for so late answer , I didn't saw this at the time. I was revising today the process and saw the question. It worked perfectly for me. You have of plenty options when installing the blade SSD, the better is also put a regular Sata SSD and have 2 SSDs. I also changed the i5 for a i7. It is a long time work but is not that hard, once you are opening the iMac worth change the processor. The used by apple in their upgrade option was the: i7 6700K 4.00 GHz Unlocked Quad Core Skylake Desktop Processor, Socket LGA 1151

Alber Einsten -

Hi, does it still work as a “fusion drive” or two separated drives?

Thanks

SimonG80 -

Hi there. I’m planning to replace the blade ssd on my iMac 27” late 2015. May I know which SSD you’re using for purchase reference?

Thanks a lot.

Che FU Lin -

I replaced the HDD with a Samsung 850 Pro (late 2015 iMac). Removing the "fusion drive" was not necessary -- if you install OS X from scratch, you can configure the two drives to work in parallel.

Aleksi Asikainen - Replica

Thanks for answer my question, before ask :)

mralexanderclark75 -

Can i just replace only the moving hard drive and leave the solid state the mac came with, that would make the world easy.

maessttrro - Replica

can i buy brand new 2016 imac 5k 27" 3.2GHz Processor

1TB Storage (without fusion drive) and do this upgrade after???

mrmoraesgil - Replica

So - it's about an inch above the ports on the back - anybody want to try using a dremel to make the %#*@ door that should have been there in the first place? :)

szeglowski - Replica

I have a quick question, on the owc site they show you don't have to take the logic board out. You can actually replace the stock 7200 HD with a new bracket and a SSD, attach a heat sensor, plugin, and put screen back on.

Is that also a correct way to upgrade the system? I have a MK462/A1419 system that I want to replace the HD and add and SSD to the system. As a 2nd choice, am I able to add a SSD to the logic board that will now act as a fusion drive with the original HD in place? Thanks for all your help.

Anthony - Replica

I have a 2015 27'' retina with 256GB SSD and I want to put a 1 or 2TB SSD in. Do I need to do the full tear down, or can I just put it in place of where the HDD is in this demo?

intoximacated - Replica

To add an OMC 2TB SSD where the original HDD went requires changing out the cable, about a $30 part, but one that requires removing the main logic board. While there stuff in as big of a blade SSD as possible.

westwind -

Is it posible to use HDD and SSD without "fusion drive" functional? I have imac 5k with HDD only. But i want to add ssd as second drive. Thank you

Aleksey Kazakov - Replica

Hello,

Is possible to add an SSD pci to iMac 5K 27" LATE 2015, which came without fusion drive?

I will have this connection on the motherboard?

Thanks

Eugeniu Tambur - Replica

Same question?

michael -

Hello everyone, i want to know one thing about Imac 27" 5k table stand is openable or not....?

pabitra - Replica

I heard it's not. You have to choose the vesa mount option when you purchase.

dkhyun -

I have the iMac 27 5K late 2015 with 1TB Fusion drive. The SSD drive is 24GB and the hard drive is 1TB 7200rpm. Can the hard drive be change to a Samsung 1TB SSD drive or not? I have not seen anyone commenting on this. Everyone seems to want to upgrade the SSD drive instead. I think the hard drive would be the easiest thing to do. Someone please help. Thanks

Rolo Carba - Replica

I own a Late 2015 27” iMac 3.2 GHz Quad-core Intel Core i5 with Retina 5K display and 1 TB HDD. I find it slow and want to install a Fusion Drive.

Question: Is the internal SSD in the 2013 and later MacBook series, specifically, the Late 2013 15" MacBook Pro exactly the same as the blade style SSD in the Late 2015 iMac?

MacBook Pro Replacement Drives:

https://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ssd/owc/...

I ask because I would like to take the 500 GB blade style SSD out of my late 2013 15" MacBook Pro and use it in the 27" iMac. I will also replace the current 1 TB HDD in the iMac with this 6TB drive:

https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Toshiba/... Then I can configure both drives as big ass Fusion drive.

FYI: I plan to replace the current MacBook Pro drive with a 1 TB SSD:

https://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ssd/owc/....

michael - Replica

Hi guys, I'm Rik from Florence. Today I went to a apple reseller because my imac 5k 27 has only one 250gb ssd, without any other disk. They told me that my imac is not upgradable because inside there aren't any cable for an other disk. I asked if was possible to remove my ssd with other bigger but they said that maybe the ssd inside the imac is settled. Any other official upgrade on my imac is forbidden and will cause the warranty end. I think it's a shame. I paid more than 3000€ for an not upgradable computer??? ps. sorry for my poor english

ilminia - Replica

Okay, so the late 2015 (October) 1TB Fusion has a 24gb SSD and a 1TB HDD in combination - My understanding is that the earlier 1TB Fusion Drives were 128GB SSD + 1TB HDD - and were mounted separately. What I am not sure of is whether the tiny 24gb is mounted on the logic board like the larger ones, or mounted inside the larger disc like some of the Seagate SSHD hybrid drives. That is my first question.

As to the question of whether the sockets for SSD are still in place to add a SSD to the iMac units that only come with the larger HDD, I think that was answered yes above. Now about the iMacs that come with only small SSDs (256 or 512) is there an unused SATA connector on the logic board where you could add a SATA cable and install another disc (SSH or HDD)? I do know there are cables available if the socket is there.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a late 2015 unit and wonder whether I want to get one with the 1TB HDD and add two big SSDs or just pay the extra $500 to get the model with the 2TB Fusion?

Uncle Reggie - Replica

Hi Guys and SSD Experts .... :-)

I needa a hint from your end ... because I'm a little bit confused because most descriptions that I found are showing how to replace the internal HDD against a SSD.

I purchased a iMac 5k 27, with internal 256 SSD. from the Apple Store in 2015.

So it's a pure SSD Model (no Fusion Drive).

Now I would like to upgrade the 256 SSD with a larger 1 TB SSD.

My thought was that the iMac 5k SSD Version runs a normal 2,5 " SSD.

Is it possible to buy a normal 2,5 " SSD with 1 TB and to insert it at that place where normally the Fusion Drive is located?

Do I need any specific set of cables, etc because of an thermal sensor?

I prefer to runt he iMac with an larger internal SSD. So an external Thunderbolt SSD isn't my preferred option.

Thanks for any comments, support.

G. M. - Replica

You have a 2.5" SSD and not a blade SSD? If your iMac has a 2.5" SSD, just remove the screen, remove the left speaker for access to the left hard drive bracket, unscrew and remove the left hard drive bracket, unplug and remove the SSD and install the new one.

If however your iMac came with a blade SSD only, you can install a 3.5" HDD or 2.5" SSD, but you need a mount to fit the 2.5" SSD in the 3.5" HDD bracket, if there's even a bracket there at all. If not, find a creative way to keep in it place I guess...

You also need a specific SATA cable (see guide I linked below). Use it as a reference to see where the HDD/SSD is mounted and where the SATA cable needs to plug in (it's not a normal SATA cable). I was able to connect the it without removing the logic board, but it's not easy as the logic board is installed backside up. It needs to connect to both its on-board power connector and the on-board SATA slot:

Sostituzione cavo SATA iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546

mikai -

Another note: thermal sensor is not required for SSDs on systems using OS X El Capitan/Sierra. I installed an SSD without one. No fan throttling at all.

mikai -

imac 27" 5k ssd (sm0256g) replacement---My computer has Apple sm0256g ssd... Can I use Samsung 960 Evo M.2 500gb Sata3 Pcıe 3200/1800 Ssd Mz-V6e500bw instead? please help me.

mert - Replica

No, unfortunately. The proprietary Apple SSD has a unique slot configuration. It just simply won't fit. I've replaced the SSD of my iMac 27 5k and had to buy the SM0512G.

See the pictures below and look at the end of each. They are different.

960 EVO:

https://images10.newegg.com/ProductImage...

SM0256G/SM0512G:

http://www.storagereview.com/images/YlRI...

mikai -

Hi Mikai, where did you buy your SM0512G? Thank you!

Ernest -

@mikai thanks for advice. I can confirm satisfied. No special and expensive thermal sensor cable needed on my iMac 2015 Retina! I replaced HDD with a Samsung SSD under OS X El Capitan.

mappo - Replica

Okay. External SSD thunderbolt drive only for me.

Jim Hassinger - Replica

Hi there,

I would like to add a 256 GB PCIe SSD on my iMac 27 5k late 2015 which only has 1TB HDD. I read that it has the PCIe interface to install a blade SSD but I cannot find any on the Internet. Can someone please suggest me possible sellers (especially in Europe)?

Thanks in advance

Francesco - Replica

iMac 27 5k late 2015:

Forgive me if this was asked already — but if I want to switch from a 24gig ssd / 1tb hdd fusion configuration to a strictly ssd config, which PCIe SSD can I use? I wrote OWC to see if I can use any of their PCIe blades, but they wrote back that they don’t make one that works for this model — but now that I’m doing a little more digging it looks like I’m finding old eBay listings for the SM0512G that point to it being used in the Macbook Air line.

Anyone have luck with an OWC PCIe blade as their main drive? Any lucky with a Macbook Air SSD?

If I’m going to upgrade to a SSD, I want it to use the fastest connection possible so the 2.5 drive isn’t optimal.

Any help appreciated, have a great day.

Matt

Matt - Replica

I remove the fusion drive(24GB ssd blade and 1TB hdd) and added a 512MB ssd blade(MZ-JPV5120/0A4) and 1TB ssd(Samsung).

The blade is doing read 1800MB/s and write 1400MB/s so I am happy with the upgrade.

BUT when I check the system preference, NVMexpress option tells me that there is no hardware…

(when the fusion drive was installed, it showed properly 5GT/s and 4 Lane…)

Masao Tomogane - Replica

Can you tell me how to remove the 24GB ssd blade and install the fusion drive ?thank you very much.

Email:tigerpa6666@gmail.com

Blank -

Can you tell me how to remove the 24GB ssd blade and how to install the fusion drive?Thank you very much.

mail:tigerpa6666@gmail.com

Blank -

Not sure why the instructions call it adhesive, when it’s double sided tape. Calling it adhesive implies to me that it could be reheated to close things back up.

scottcaldshop - Replica

I’ve read that on High Sierra we can use N-941A adapter and Samsung blade drives in our iMacs 5K 2017

So Samsung M.2 Nvme 960 Evo through N-941A adapter should work.

Some reported nvme is seen on system as external drive and not bootable on beta High Sierra

Have anyone tested and can confirm?

kmosiej - Replica

All boot options must share the Main Drive format., My MacBook P booted of my SSD ext,

iMac stopped booting from same SSD at the last moment

During update the SSD was reformatted with the new APFS the fusion remained HFS

Bomb_The_Vatican -

Hi I have a Imac 27” 2015, 3.2Hz, with 1 tb 7200rpm drive. When I want to replace the 7200rpm spinning drive to SSD. Is there another ssd inside the Imac I need to look for also? I just want to replace the 7200rpm with the samsung evo 850. Do I need to replace any other hardrive inside the Imac?

Dave W - Replica

Depending on how your iMac was configured when you bought it, you may have both an SSD (shown in the guide you’re viewing now) and a standard spinny drive. If you’re looking to replace the spinny drive, the guide you want is this one.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi guys im thinking of upgrading my ssd blade . Ive been looking about and noticed the do a m.2 convertor Would this be possible to do and just buy a m.2 ssd ?. If not im looking into leaving that there and upgrading the hdd to Evo 850 ssd , Do i need the sensor kit , and i do need to un-pair the Fusion Drive. Thank you Guys

master.mark - Replica

No, you want to get a real Apple drive The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs

Dan -

For all: when swapping out either the blade or the HDD from a Fusion setup, you have to do a full backup to an external drive. Removing a drive will BREAK the Fusion drive like removing a drive in a RAID array.

After you upgrade, you have to re-create a fusion drive of the Blade and the spinner HDD. Google “do it yourself fusion drive” or search macsales.com (blog). After you build the new fusion drive, you can restore your backup to it (easy with CarbonCopyCloner, SuperDuper, etc.) You can even make a fusion of two SSDs.

Eriamjh 1138 - Replica

First of all, thank you so much Sam for posting this guide. It was super useful to me. My late 2015 iMac was running very slow and I decided to upgrade it with both a 1Tb SSD and a 128Gb flash drive (from a 2017 iMac). I followed your tutorial and everything is working well so far, after installing High Sierra in the flash unit.

There is only one thing that I’m a bit worried about. When running the Black magic test, read speeds are around 2500Mb/s while write speeds stay much lower, at 750Mb/s.

Is that normal?

Thanks again

luis

luis - Replica

Having a part number for the SSD replacement would be helpful.

SkyMakai - Replica

I just confirmed with OWC. They do not have a part to replace/upgrade the PCIe SSD in the 5K iMac.

SkyMakai - Replica

OWC does not offer their blade SSD’s for any of the iMac’s. Their position is it’s to risky for most people taking the logic board out. You can find the correct Apple SSD’s from a few sources.

Dan -

I have a iMac with SSD 128GB and 3TB fusion drive, my question is if i replace the 3TB hard disk and put a SSD drive will the system work as fushion drive?

I mean i i have 1TB SDD and the 128GB SSD stick can i use it as fusion drive .. will it be faster?

cad.co - Replica

Not really, It would be smarter just running the two drives independently (dual drive). Setup the blade SSD as your boot drive and your new SATA SSD as your data drive. One of the issues you face is the size of the blade SSD may not offer enough free space to cache your work if you are working on large photo’s, vid’s or music pieces.

Dan -

It will be twice as fast, but you cannot replace one of the drives easily, you need to do a full backup/restore. I wouldn’;t do it because th 128GB is just not worth it.

Udo Thiel -

What nobody says:

1) be careful when you open the display, the adhesive stuff from apple is easier to remove than the replacement you will put - test your setup properly before you close the screen (I managed to break it when I opened it for the second time)

2) if you put the hdd from your fusion drive into an external case (usb), your mac won’t be able to mount the filesystem: make sure you copy or backup all your date before you remove the hdd. even disc repair tools were not able from the fusion drive

3) there’s not need to remove the blade ssd if you’re just swapping your hdd with an ssd.

Gérard Basler - Replica

I have a retina 27” imac late 2014. It was supplied with a 1TB HDD only. Does anyone know if there is an M2 socket available on the logic board and if so, is it worth installing an M2 250GB and a 2TB 2.5” SSD. Or should I just install the SSD?

David 99 - Replica

Hello David,

There is no M2 slot on the Logic Board. It’s actually a PCIE slot located on the inside of the Logic Board. It’s possible but not really worth upgrading the PCIE card as Sata SSD prices are getting pretty cheap. Install a Sata SSD and fuse the drives together.

Anthony -

I am currently replacing the PSU on a mid 2015, 27” 5K iMac. I have not torn into the logic board but I’m going to assume the blade SSD is there making this an iMac with a fusion drive. Anyone know the standard capacity of the blade SSD? Is it mSATA or M.2 form factor or something proprietary? For storage, if I am looking to increase speed primarily and capacity secondarily what’s my best storage upgrade approach for this type of set up? Oh and finally is there a solution that would allow me to use APFS as the file system. Thanks!

sagert - Replica

Sorry folks looks like there’s quite a bit of comments I should go through. If my questions have been asked and answered, my apologies :)

sagert -

Standard capacity of the PCIE SSD is 128 GB. Replace your Hard Drive with a Sata SSD for the best price per performance. You can then re-fuse both drives and format to APFS if your running High Sierra or higher.

Anthony -

Hi!

I want to change the HDD to an SSD. I purchased the SSD and installation tools including adhesive tape and the pizza roller … :-) I read about high spinning fans and i am wondering if the problem is still out there so i need the special cable. My iMac is a 2017 version.

All i found is cables for 2011 and 2012 iMacs.

Will the 2,5” SSD connect to the SATA HDD cable or is there any adaptor needed?

Please help

Thank you!

jonas.boetsch - Replica

Hello Jonas,

You do not need to worry about high fan spin on this model. Just be careful swapping the drive and you’ll be fine.

Anthony -

Für den Austausch einer defekten HDD habe ich die sehr ausführliche Anleitung ohne Probleme befolgt und in kurzer Zeit einschließlich Klebestreifen ausgeführt.

Danke für Eure Mühen, es gibt Sicherheit und macht Mut.

For the replacement of a defective HDD, I followed the very detailed instructions without any problems and executed in a short time including adhesive tape.

Thank you for your efforts, there is security and courage.

mandy

pitfrank - Replica

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