Sostituzione Batteria Microsoft Surface Book

Once you insert an opening pick, you can use a few drops of Acetone around the edge to loosen the glue. I found this much easier than keep reheating the iOpener and possibly cracked the display.

Bad idea to use acetone with these types of devices because of the plastic parts that can become either damaged or outright melted by the solvent. (Especially the ribbon cables and connections) You are better off using isopropyl alcohol or nothing. Easy enough just to avoid this idea completely. Not to mention that it is possible to cause the display to shatter due to thermal shock when you apply the solvent to a heated surface. Good luck to those that try anyway.

The iOpener did nothing to loosen up the glue. Had to use a hair dryer for almost 40 minutes to get it softened up enough to open.

Took at least 30 mins with a hair dryer to get the screen off. That 20 min completion time is total BS.

my screen is 25% off

Having recently been inside a Surface Book I purchased via Facebook marketplace, consider the screen a “cost” of replacing the battery and the pressure is off of you. I tried VERY hard not to break the glass, but…still happened. With that out of the way, I successfully replaced the screen, battery, and also battery in the base. Microsoft should be ashamed of this device. All that engineering effort built into their crappy hinge, only to have the batteries fail prematurely. Also, the mechanism to release the screen from the base sucks real bad. Mine doesn’t work, I carry a paper clip with me to unleash the tablet mode. Pathetic. Thank GOD I picked this up second hand for a few hundred bucks. Pity the folks that paid two grand or more for this turd.

I got my computer open after completely abandoning the “step 1” instructions here. The hot pack (iOPener) and suction cups (iSclack) were completely worthless for me, and did absolutely nothing. Instead, simply get yourself a tool with a very thin metal knife, such as the “Jimmy” sold here on iFixit.

Use a heat gun to get a section of the screen nice and hot (I went with ~160 degrees Fahrenheit) then insert the Jimmy vertically in between the screen and the metal frame (a tiny gap.) Then, carefully flip it horizontally to get between the tape and the screen. After this, carefully slide the knife along the edge while using a heat gun to hover right over the place the knife will next be (I used gloves to prevent burning my hands.) Do NOT insert the knife more than a half an inch into the gap, or you might damage your screen (stay within the black bezel range.)

This will QUICKLY, EASILY, and SAFELY get the screen off.

Attempted to do this without enough heat and the glass shattered; recommend using a heat gun and potentially using repair tape to keep the glass intact. The screen removal is the hardest part of everything.

I broke my screen too, but I blame myself for being impatient. Once I took my time heating with a hair dryer and getting the opening pick in there, with enough heat I could just slide the pick down the edges. Next time I’ll know better!

I tried the heated iOpener. I had some success but then used too much force and cracked the screen. My advice is to take you time and use the iOpener often on the very edge of the screen. Use the suction cups or iSclack as your primary tools to separate the glass form the frame. And a second set of hands is very helpful to hold the metal part of the screen onto your table. The glass will come off with patience and perseverance.

Use heat, be patience don’t rush, go slow to prevent breaking screen like I did. I also damage the antenna to the wireless onboard adapter. The antenna is glued between the screen and the enclosure and is easy to damage. I didn’t realize this until after the repair was complete and my surface book no longer recognized its WiFi device. I have to use a usb/Bluetooth adapter. Good luck.

Be carful around the power switch and volume buttons when separating as the WiFi Arial is attached to the casing under the adhesive strip, second Arial is located further along the case about the same distance away from edge of cases as the power and volume button .

This^^^

Use heat, be patience don’t rush, go slow to prevent breaking screen like I did. I also damage the antenna to the wireless onboard adapter. The antenna is glued between the screen and the plastic strip protecting camera and is easy to damage. I didn’t realize this until after the repair was complete and my surface book no longer recognized its WiFi device. I have to use a usb/Bluetooth adapter. Good luck.

how to remove WiFi antenna im stucked at this step.

Metal plates are difficult to remove. Must pry them off.

I was not able to pry off the metal bracket, so I just propped up the screen with the ribbon cables attached while I carefully worked on the laptop

I was able to pull the plate off with my thumb nail. It comes off easily if you get the right angle.

I used a blue tool with small scoop on the side opposite the tines to leverage the bracket off. Easily popped off that way, after a few attempts with the curved tweezers filed.

Remove only the plug to the far right leave the ribbon cables and the clips alone What was confusing in this photo it looked like he removed the large ribbon clip, he did not. I did and busted the clip that secured the cable. I had to buy a new touch sensor board.

Don’t make this mistake, look carefully before you do. Stop before going to far.

I think I could have done this in less than 30 minutes since the computer back was bulging with the batteries swelling. To my surprise, the batteries were stuck to the back with black adhesive so the connector popped loose. Fearing that I had screwed up the connector, I plugged the computer into the new battery pack and found everything was working and the battery showed a full charge. TaDa. With my wife’s help holding the back, I used a hair dryer and wooden spatula to remove the old battery pack. Rather than trying to apply more adhesive to the edges of the back I used black electrical tape to keep it in place.

It was not 3mm hex, but torx.

We only need T3 and T4 driver in the whole processes to replace the battery.

Original image is missing several screws which I circled in yellow in a new image.

Which screws go where they are not all the same size

I was able to slide the battery out without removing the screws along the bottom of the picture (top of the laptop screen if you’re looking at it normally).

Still missing a circled screw (you can see the empty hole in the image) — there are four along the motherboard under the battery cells. One at each inner corner of the battery, and one towards the middle of the cell inside copper tracing. The photo does not have the right-side one circled; additionally, this one is initially hidden under a piece of foam strip, so be sure not to miss this one!

The fan seems to not have screws holding it down, although it has 2 screw holes. Just foam isolators. Was the omission to not transfer vibrations elsewhere, or am I missing 2 screws?

Etape non nécessaire et faiblement recommandée, très risqué !! Faites-le uniquement si votre batterie est trop gonflée pour passer sous la carte mère même en la soulevant légèrement. Cependant si vous ne faites pas cette étape, faites attention en faisant glisser la batterie aux trous pour les vis qui ressortent.

This is only necessary if your battery is very swollen and you cannot slide it out to the side of the tablet by slightly lifting the motherboard. IF you have to lift the motherboard higher to remove an extremely swollen battery then you need to remove the keyboard ribbon. Use extreme caution while doing this AND remove the small metal plate glued to the exterior of the tablet keyboard connector before attempting to pull it out. If you don’t you will likely remove the bracket from the pins on the keyboard connector cable….which is very hard to replace without ruining the pins.

NOT A NECESSARY STEP! Even with a fairly swollen battery, it can be carefully worked out from the right or left side. You will have to remove all of the motherboard screws to be able to lift it enough to do this, though.

The gold rectangle being held at right is the forward facing camera. Remove the plug to the ribbon wire, the gold rectangle to the left only. There is no need to mess with the camera. The only reason I can see for removing the plug at all as it hides the last screw that holds the motherboard down. Be gentle if you insist on removing the forward facing camera like the picture, the back can come off and you have more trouble. This battery fix is plenty enough trouble.

It is easiest to just remove the forward-facing camera board by taking out its two screws, after unplugging the ribbon cable. Trying to hold back the ribbon cable out of the way enough to lever up the motherboard later risks damage to said ribbon cable, and makes moving that corner of the motherboard more difficult.

Be very careful before removing that ribbon cable. You can’t see it in the pictures but there is a screw holding that down and without removing that you can bust the camera on the back of the unit (On the side with the Windows logo). Ended up tossing due diligence out the window and went for it causing the rear camera to bust. Not an expensive part but for sure an annoyance.

How do you glue the screen back on? Right now i’m imagining you just heat the glue back up as was done in the disassembly and then let it cool after placing the screen back where it should be.

Please advise

Sometimes that’s enough! I haven’t tried with this particular device. If needed, clean all the old glue off the display and chassis carefully, and clean the areas underneath with 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. Then apply a strong double-sided tape such as Tesa 61395 to re-assemble.

Used glue tape made for this kind of thing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4V... . Doesn’t stick anywhere as well as the original glue, but that could be a good thing. Makes opening up the machine easier the next time.

This takes much less time if you gently warm the back of the case. Then using a couple of old credit cards with raised letters and numbers pry, pull and then isolate the glue, numbers down, the numbers limit the amount of sticky the credit cards have to the old battery glue. My new battery had a removable piece of plastic over new adhesive. Your going to want to pre cut the plastic (NOT THE BATTERY FOR GOD SAKE) in half, removing the center section. After you position the battery and are ready to stick it down. Remove the plastic covering the Adhesive on one side, remove the credit card, stick it down and do the other side.

The heat gun is key to this step. This step took me less than 5 minutes.

N’utilisez surtout pas de spatule métallique, au risque de percer la batterie. La colle à l’arrière est très collante pour le coup, utilisez un sèche-cheveux et chauffez l’arrière de l’écran. Ensuite à l’aide d’une carte essayer de passer en dessous de la batterie, veillez à faire en sorte que la colle soit bien chaude, ça se décollera plus simplement, si vous avez les petites spatules bleus d’IfixIt, faire levier sous la carte pour décoller la batterie. Faire pareil des 2 côtés.

Be careful of the skinny ribbon cable on the left (connects the motherboard to the 3.5mm audio jack board). It doesn’t have a lot of slack and is hidden under a piece of foam strip, and if you lever the motherboard too high when trying to pull the battery out, you could damage it or the ZIF connector.