Introduzione
Questa guida per sostutuire il tasto accensione ti seguirà passo passo nello smontare il Nintendo 3DS oltre la scheda madre per accedere al tasto di accensione.
Cosa ti serve
-
-
Svita le due viti da 4.2 mm di lunghezza posizionate sulla parte in alto del retro.
-
-
-
Tieni il dispositivo in modo tale che la cover sia rivolta verso l'alto.
-
Usando uno strumento di plastica, rimuovi la cover cominciando dall'angolo superiore destro.
-
Tieni l'angolo sollevato così da evitare che si riattacchi.
-
Fai attenzione alla parte sotto il compartimento del pennino. Fai leva sulla cover per rimuoverla se è ancora attaccata.
-
Rimuovi la cover dal dispositivo e mettila da parte.
Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.
-
-
-
Inserisci lo strumento di plastica nell'apertura situata sul lato destro della batteria.
-
Solleva la batteria dal case inferiore.
-
Rimuovi la batteria e mettila da parte.
My 👴 grandpa was helping me 🔧 repair my 3ds xl and ⚡️electrocuted himself with the 🔋battery while we was taking it out with a 🔪 knife. 💀 Rip grandpa 😔
-
-
-
Usando delle pinze estrai i piedini di gomma che sono situati sopra entrambi i lati del compartimento per la cartuccia del gioco.
I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.
I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.
You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.
try twisting upward
My 3DS XL is so old that the rubber bumpers were very hard to remove.
So I tried to heat the rubber bumpers a little bit with a hair dryer for 15-20 seconds, with some pauses every 5 seconds in order to avoid overheating or damaging something as a precaution.
It worked well to remove them but the only drawback is that as my rubber bumpers already got damaged and scratched because of my previous attempts without heating first, heating it up after aggravated the scratch damages when I used tweezers.
So I would recommend heating the rubber bumpers moderately first and be gentle when using something that could scratch or damage them.
(Do not take my words for it, it may not work for you)
-
-
-
Rimuovi le sei viti da 6.2 mm usando un cacciavite Phillips #00
#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?
I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.
Megan -
I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.
I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.
I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.
All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.
One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?
I stripped a screw in my 3ds xl and don’t know how to get it out. Do I have to use a drill or is there another way?
-
-
-
Rimuovi le viti da 2.3 mm situate sopra lo slot per cartuccia da gioco con un cacciavite Phillips #00.
between these two steps, the bottom two screws are not mentioned. make sure to take those out too ;)
-
-
-
Assicurati di aver rimosso la scheda SD. Con uno strumento in plastica adatto fai leva sulla scocca inferiore iniziando dalla parte in basso e continuando sul perimetro.
-
Ci sono due cavi a nastro che connettono la scocca alla scheda elettronica. Stai attento a non tirare troppo la scocca, potresti romperli.
Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.
-
-
-
Rimuovi i cavi a nastro situati sotto i piedini di destra e di sinistra facendo leva alla base dei cavi con uno strumento di plastica adatto.
-
Rimuovi del tutto la scocca inferiore dal resto del dispositivo e mettila da parte.
Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!
Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.
That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work...all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way...
Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.
-
-
-
-
Posiziona il dispositivo in modo che lo slot per la cartuccia da gioco sia posta in alto.
-
Individua il pad circolare sul lato destro del dispositivo.
-
Rimuovi le due viti da 7.5 mm negli angoli in alto a sinistra e in basso a destra.
Careful you don’t lose the little washer on the circle pad stem. It’s not held down by anything.
-
-
-
Usando uno strumento in plastica adatto rimuovi il joystick del pad circolare.
-
Non usare troppa forza con lo strumento in plastica. C'è una striscia che collega il joystick circolare alla scheda madre che deve rimanere attaccata.
I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.
I made a small mistake by popping the circle pad joystick and it went flying off and now im stuck trying to put it back in
-
-
-
Usando la parte con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger alza con attezione la linguetta che tiene collegata la striscia del pad circolare alla scheda madre.
-
Rimuovi la striscia e il joystick del pad circolare.
The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.
The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.
For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.
To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.
Sostituzione copertura levetta analogica Nintendo 3DS
Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard.. luckily I didn't.
Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.
I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.
Did the hot glue work? I did the exact same thing now im not sure what to do…
When testing the touchscreen, make sure you install the analog. Otherwise, the screen will act erratic. Thought I broke a brand new part. Just a heads up!
The entire top part of my circle pad had broken off, so I had no problem getting the old one out. I actually had more trouble getting the ribbon cable back into the clip, and the new circle pad attached to the stick, than any other part.
That said, this was way, way easier than I expected it to be.
-
-
-
Posiziona la console in modo tale che sia rivolta con lo slot per le cartucce verso l'alto.
-
Identifica la scheda IR posizionata sull'angolo destro superiore della scheda madre.
-
Rimuovi la scheda IR con uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inserendolo sotto la scheda e rimuovendola con una delicata pressione.
One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.
Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)
The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose
You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.
You skipped removing the microphopne.
I agree my 3dxl the IR board is also part of the motherboard and doesnt come off.
-
-
-
Usando uno strumento in plastica fai leva e rimuovi la scheda Wi-Fi.
-
La scheda Wi-Fi sarà sempre connessa con un cavo e non è necessatio rimuoverla completamente in questo momento. Per ora basta metterla da una parte.
Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.
The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!
Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway...
-
-
-
Individua l'interruttore del volume sul lato destro della scheda madre vicino al controller analogico circolare.
-
Usando delle pinzette, rimuovi con attenzione la scheda del volume dal suo alloggio. Rimarrà attaccata alla scheda madre tramite un cavo a nastro.
As previously commented, in this step the microphone (lower left corner) was removed.
This is done by opening the grey flap, removing the ribbon from the motherboard and then either remove it or just let it sit in it’s place.
In my experience the motherboard will go around it easily.
-
-
-
Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger alza con attezione la linguetta che attacca la striscia della scheda del volume alla scheda madre.
-
Rimuovi la scheda del volume e mettila da parte.
This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.
What if I pushed flap too hard and detached and cant find. Now I unable to secure in. Is there a part for this?
Its is the small grey flap that holds in the ribbon.
-
-
-
Rimuovi i pezzi di plastica nera dagli angoli in basso a destra e sinistra usando le dita o un paio di pinzette.
-
Puoi anche rimuovere questi pezzi facilmente sollevando e girando il 3DS. Solitamente cadono da soli, ma non perderli!
Does anything happen if you lose them or not, that last part made me a little worried?
-
-
-
Usando la parte piatta di uno spudger gira verso l'alto le alette di bloccaggio che tengono fermi i due cavi a nastro più piccoli sulla scheda madre.
-
Queste due alette sono posizionate nei bordi in alto a destra e in basso a destra della scheda madre.
-
Sfila i cavi a nastro dalle loro prese.
For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.
MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)
Connor -
-
-
-
Usando la parte piatta di uno spudger gira verso l'alto le alette di bloccaggio che tengono fermi i due cavi a nastro più larghi sulla scheda madre.
-
Sfila i cavi a nastro dalle loro prese.
Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert.. Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.
-
-
-
Svita le dieci viti da 5,5 mm che sono posizionate attorno sulla scheda madre.
I took a micrometer to these screws, they are not 5.5 mm long.
These screws are 3.0mm long.
-
-
-
Solleva la scheda il necessario per liberarla dai due supporti in plastica vicini agli angoli in alto del lettore delle schede.
-
Gira delicatamente la scheda facendo perno sul bordo superiore.
Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.
Add to this step, during reassembly: make sure the volume slider and wi-fi sliders are lined up correctly with their outer switches.
-
-
-
Usando la parte piatta di uno spudger gira verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio che tiene fermo il cavo a nastro sulla scheda madre nell'angolo in alto a destra.
-
Sfila il cavo a nastro dalla sua presa.
-
Metti da parte la scheda madre.
So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help
How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short...
Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.
When fixing, I can't put the 2 wires in the connector. HELP!
Don't unplug this cable. Just leave the motherboard flat and don't move it while replacing the face button(s). This thing is way too hard to get back in.
It's hard to put it back but it's doable if you spend a lot of time, it took me around an hour and a half, also make sure you put it well because the first time, it was not fully inserted and the screen was flickering with gray lines so after I reinserted it worked fine.
-
-
-
Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere il tappo di plastica situato nell'angolo in basso a sinistra.
-
Usa le pinzette per tirare fuori il tasto di accensione.
-
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni nell'ordine inverso.
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni nell'ordine inverso.
Annulla: non ho completato questa guida.
Altre 4 persone hanno completato questa guida.
Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:
100%
Questi traduttori ci stanno aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›
Team
Cal Poly, Team 9-13, Regan Spring 2014 Membro di Cal Poly, Team 9-13, Regan Spring 2014
CPSU-REGAN-S14S9G13
5 Membri
43 Guide realizzate
3 Commenti
Does anyone have any idea where I can get a spare power button (black plastic part) and the rubber bit?
I've found the rubber bit on ebay but for the life of me I cannot find the plastic part (In the UK at least)
Thanks.
Did you find it by any chance? Kind of looking for the same thing
yaboi -
almost a decade after I answer. but you never know you were still looking for it (I don’t believe). but you can find some on aliexpress, for the rubber the quality and the same but the buttons slightly less pleasant, unfortunately not pack only for the button power but for ~10 € you can have the pack of rubber and that of button, which is always expensive than buying a new 3ds xl for parts
Nothing -
Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!
justjustintuber - Replica
what type screwdriver do i use?!? its so small!!!!
Matthew - Replica
I had success using a #00 Phillips head
Jake S -
Can't clip the front of the back cover back in
Macro Man - Replica