Introduzione
La macchina in questione è prodotta da Magimix. L'altra versione disponibile (Krups) è simile e questa guida può essere applicata anche per quella macchina.
Prima di tutto considerate di sfruttare la garanzia della vostra macchina (solitamente 2 anni), dopo averla smontata non potrete più sfruttare la garanzia.
Staccate dalla spina la macchina e trovate un'area di lavoro dove non vi dovrete preoccupare dei graffi.
Cosa ti serve
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Rimuovi tutta l'acqua dal sistema. (Dal manuale Nespresso).
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immagine 2: esploso con tutte la parti della macchina. Fonte: buyspares.com
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Tira verso di te, con un buon quantitativo di forza.
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Quando sentirai un click, tira il pezzo verso il basso. Dovrebbe scendere facilmente.
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Usa una punta torx T20 (forma a stella). Un cacciavite della giusta misura dovrebbe andare ugualmente bene.
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Chiudi con forza il portacapsula.
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Foto 2 e 3: spingi con un cacciavite dove indicato e ruota leggermente le clips per sganciarle. Ci sono un totale di 4 clips.
Il serait bien de préciser de quel couvercle latéral on parle : le droit ou le gauche ? Merci.
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Assicurati che le tacche siano allineate.
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Sgancia la cover. Quando avrai sollevato parte della cover, sposta le tua dita sui lati ed applica un pò di forza per sganciare le clips laterali.
This is quite delicate, scary and slow! There are more clips and the side can get stuck on the metal lugs that stick out the side. You may have to ease the plastic cover over them.
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Ripeti il tutto dall'altro lato.
La photo avec la main me semble trop zoomée. Un plan plus large serait plus explicite. Merci.
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Per facilitare la rimozione inserisci un cacciavite dove indicato nell'immagine.
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Per prima cosa stacca la spina dell'apparecchio! In seguito rimuovi il filo di terra, positivo e negativo.
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Rimuovi i cavi dal loro alloggiamento.
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Sgancia le clips usando un cacciavite sottile.
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Sgancia questi quattro punti e rimuovi la scocca.
When your machine is leaking, this is the right moment to diagnose it once this step is done. I suspect most pressure is on the parts when using a new cup. Screw back the lever to insert a new cup. Reconnect the power cord and put the water tank seat back on so the water container can be used.
When putting the machine back together this point is obviously also the right time to test if everything is working (again) as expected.
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foto 1: usando una leva, tira verso l'alto.
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Foto 2: sgancia le due clips sul versante interno della scocca.
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Foto 3: capovolgi il tutto e tira la cover verso l'alto.
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Spingi verso il basso il beccuccio, se necessario, e nel mentre sgancia gli alloggiamenti della leva. In seguito estraili.
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La parte superiore può essere rimossa: segui la forma ad L della scocca per sganciarla dai pin metallici.
Il porta capsula può essere rimosso sganciando le due linguette;
sotto c'è un O-ring che più perdere acqua in pressione che poi fuoriesce sotto la macchina in funzione!
Qualcuno sa dove posso trovare l'O-ring di ricambio???
Grazie!
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Segna uno dei cavi neri per un corretto rimontaggio.
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Sgancia il filo giallo e marrone.
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Sgancia il connettore bianco.
When putting the machine back together make sure the spring on the bottom of the pump is propely back in the seating. If not the machine will resonate like crazy.
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Queste clip sono difficili da rimuovere. I rettangoli di plastica che ospitano i fermagli metallici fanno parte del tubo a U. Tenerlo presente quando si stacca il tubo a U dagli altri due tubi (pompa e caldaia) - che hanno flange a forma di cono; facile da spingere sulle facce del tubo a U, difficile da staccare.
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Utilizzando la prospettiva della Foto1 come riferimento, per facilitare il lavoro, assicurarsi che lo sfondo sia rivolto verso il pavimento e assicurarsi che il tubo metallico sia rinforzato, direttamente o tramite la caldaia appoggiato su una superficie antiscivolo come un tappetino di gomma o un pavimento in moquette.
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Impostare l'equivalente se si lavora dall'estremità della pompa del tubo a U.
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Spingere uno strumento appuntito spesso 2,5 mm (a barra o piatto) nell'anello di filo che emerge dal centro-fondo della faccia di plastica. Non far emergere ulteriormente l'ansa, ma è possibile allargarla <1mm con un cacciavite di larghezza adeguata.
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Le spalle sinistra e destra della clip metallica devono essere separate quanto lo consente la faccia in plastica. Inizia inserendo (e lasciando in posizione) strumenti appuntiti/rastremati simili da 2,5 mm-3,5 mm di spessore tra il bordo esterno della faccia in plastica e le estremità esposte del filo. Inserire vicino a ciascuna spalla.
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Tenendo la fascetta del filo tenuta separata in tre punti, verificare che il filo al centro della faccia in plastica non stia ancora abbracciando il tubo ma sporga semplicemente dal bordo della flangia conica. Potrebbe essere necessario un altro strumento appuntito per manipolare il resto del filo oltre il bordo della flangia del cono.
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Con la prospettiva della foto 1 (o vista equivalente dalla pompa), utilizzare un dito su entrambi i lati del tubo per allontanare la parte in plastica dalla caldaia o dalla pompa (verso il pavimento se posizionata come consigliato in precedenza).
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Potrebbe essere necessario oscillare la faccia di plastica durante questo processo per manipolare l'eventuale filo rimanente nell'ultimo millimetro della flangia.
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Foto 1 e 2, notare la superficie conica: mantiene le clips del tubo nella giusta posizione. L'assemblaggio è semplice, basta spingere le clips in posizione.
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Questo è fin dove mi sono spinto nello smontaggio. Nel mio caso la parte mostrata nella foto 3 perdeva tra la parte metallica e la plastica. Sfortunatamente non può essere smontata più di così.
Van you mark the spot where it was leaking?
I noticed the water in between the plastic and metal part. Only later I was able to take the heater apart with force, the leak was inside, in de middle.
The black part twists a bit to one side that way you can get it off. Needs quite some force, though!
I have a leak at exactly the same spot. How do you fix this? I first thought it was the small o-ring, but I think it's where the heating pipe exits the heater…
I had the same issue and by rotating the plastic part this can be removed from the boiler housing. Inside there is a small o-ring which in my case was worn. Now need to find replacement ring…
Hey Jeroen, I had the same leakage problem, and want to replace the o ring! did you manage to find out which o ring you need? I suspect it is this one, but not sure: https://www.partsnl.nl/ms-0019105-krups-...
Hello, I did not test yet but I replaced the Oring by a nitrile P5 (4.8x1.9) Oring from a Oring kit I have. It fits well and need a little push that feel secured. I recommend nitrile Oring given the temperature and not rubber.
Also got it off, using a screw driver on on side to rotate to the side where there is visibly space to move to. Inside tough, I couldn't find anything, also not that o - ring! Tomorrow I'll take another look I guess. I was wondering if any of you managed to fix the leakage problem in the end, as it seems I have the same problem (magimix m105)
Hi, I had the same problem and arrived to the same step, but I couldn't remove the plastic part from the metal part. In fact I broke a bit the plastic part when forcing it.
I would also like to know if anyone finally fixed it.
Thanks!
Hi, I am close, just ordered a new o ring and will try to assemble tonight or tomorrow, I could show you a little video how to do it if you give me your email, I don't know how to post it here.
I managed to separate the heater from black inner. Held in a vice, gentle tap to turn clockwise and it opens.
There is a little o-ring inside the end of the black plastic. I pulled it out cleaned and reversed it back in.
re-assembled it does not appear to leak, for now at least.
Do you happen to have pictures of the process? I have the same issue and can’t split the heater from the front plastic panel
Can you please show some photos of how to split the black plastic from the heater? Thank you very much in advance
Anyone find the right o-ring to fix the leakage. I tried 2 different one, it all seems to thinner than the original one
VauWeh -
Hi everyone. I seem to have the same exact leak as you all do but haven’t managed to separate the heater from the plastic part yet. I wasn’t planning to as I wanted to fully replace the part. And well, I didn’t think it would be so complicated to find that spare part. You can easily get it from european websites but it’s 230V… For some reason, I cannot find the heater element in 120V through North-American sellers… does anyone know where I could buy one? Thanks a lot :)
Hello Sir. May I ask except for the heater, is there any other part only work in 120V? I have a broken 120v machine ( CPU board broken ) and another broken 220V machine (black plastic part in the heater broken). I want to put the 220v CPU board and heater into the 120V machine. I am wondering if the pump is working on 120V? or it works on a fixed Voltage output by the CPU board? Thank you in advance.
Hoi, Ik wil de Inissia aanpassen voor camping gebruik. Hiervoor zou ik een diode vb P2000M in lijn moeten zetten met de verwarmingsweerstand. Ik heb geprobeerd om de diode in de gele draad te zetten die naar het drukblok loopt (de gele draad die in stap 11 is te zien). Maar dat werkt niet. Het resultaat is een toestel waarvan de lampjes 3 keer kort flitsen, pauze en weer 3 keer kort flitsen. De diode zit dus mogelijk op de verkeerde plaats. Kunnen jullie me verder helpen?
I used a large crowbar as a lever to open the brew unit's bayonet assembly. As mentioned elsewhere, the size of the o-ring (in the cavity of the large black plastic part into which the small black plastic sleeve and metal pipe slide) is 4.8x1.9 mm. In my case, replacing this o-ring did not stop the leakage. A lot of work with no favourable end result. The brew unit does not seem to be made for repair. Regarding the two metal springs and the tiny pipe in the middle of them (behind the cup holder), the following video is useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY_B_Ytz...
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L'assemblaggio è l'inverso dello smontaggio. Gli step successivi sono alcune cose a cui fare attenzione.
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Foto 1: inverso dello step 11: il modo più facile per assemblare il lato è di poggiarlo sul tavolo ed inserire i componenti nella scocca.
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Foto 2: inverso dello step 11: assicurati che il tubo nero vada sopra quello bianco.
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Inserisci il collare di gomma sopra la pompa.
Also photo 2: make sure the spring is pushing against the plastic flange, and not going through it as pictured. The machine will be very noisy otherwise.
Please clarify do you mean the tube should not be within the spring?
anony Ab -
I think he means that in my photo, on the right side of the spring it went through the cutout in the plastic housing. The tube does need to go through the spring, but the spring needs to be a bit more compressed to seat in the plastic rim. Imagine the spring in my photo to be compressed to about half its current length and it's still touching the left white plastic part.
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Foto 1: non dimenticare questa cover.
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Foto 2 (per il rimontaggio): inverso dello step 10: assicuratevi che le clips siano allineate con gli alloggiamenti.
This machine seems to be identical to the Krupps model XN1001. Your instructions were very helpful with the reassembly.
Hey, my nespresso inissia’s cup holder fell off when I was emptying the used pods. I can’t seem to re-attach it. I didn’t find any broken or missing parts either. Please can you contact me on my email: sheza.umar@yahoo.com if you can help me out with it? Thank you!
My clips don't secure the tube to the water heater, leading to leakage. How do you secure the clips? I ended up buying some new clips thinking it would make a difference but they are still very loose and don't hold the tube in
Would you know the size of the o ring in the chamber?
Thank you, this description helped me a lot to repair my DeLongi Type EN 80 B (same). My problem was a o-ring in the pump (inner diameter 4,1 x 2). It was getting hard and the pump did not work any more. I replaced it with a diameter 3,5 x 2 and the machine make good coffee now again.
Traducido a Español el comentario de Matthias:
Gracias, esta descripción me ayudó mucho a reparar mi DeLongi Tipo EN 80 B (igual). Mi problema era una junta tórica en la bomba (diámetro interior 4,1 x 2). Se estaba endureciendo y la bomba ya no funcionaba. La cambié por una de diámetro 3,5 x 2 y la máquina vuelve a hacer buen café.
Me ha venido perfecto tu manual, la férrea me pierde Justo por la unión que comentas y he desmontado la pieza! Para sacarla es necesario girarla el sentido horario con fuerza pero con tiento, y ahí se aloja un sello que se deforma con el tiempo.
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Per assemblare nuovamente il vostro dispositivo, seguite queste istruzioni in ordine inverso, stando attenti agli step 19 e 20.
Per assemblare nuovamente il vostro dispositivo, seguite queste istruzioni in ordine inverso, stando attenti agli step 19 e 20.
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25 Commenti
I wanted to diagnose a leak so I took it apart to about step 10, set the water tank in place, plugged it in, and started a cycle. The heater got hot (the large metal assembly at the top) and when the pump came water gushed out of the joint with the tricky spring clip, the rear one that connects to the metal pipe leading into the heater.
I disassembled the clip (unplugged first and let it cool off) and found that the O-ring inside the joint was split. Now to find a replacement.
Hi Leon, thanks for taking the time to make this guide.
I followed to step 11. Then I noticed the boiler had lots of white limescale streaks on it, indicating a leak. I think this is the part you diagnosed as leaking for you. I’ve decided to give up unfortunately.
Cheers John
There's another stage you can go! The plastic moulding the pod fits into can be removed from the boiler casting. You need to rotate the moulding about 15° clockwise on the boiler using a bit of leverage between the trunions and the moulding both sides. It's rather stiff but once turned it releases a sort of bayonet fitting retaining the moulding to the boiler.
Inside there's another ‘O' ring, that can be suspect for a leak, and a plastic sleeve behind it.
Thank you! Great addition.
do you know the size of the o-ring?
Alex, I haven't measured or taken pictures. The ring is approx 8 mm in diameter (from memory!). Don't know is this is of much use for you, though.
Good luck!
the seal is 4.8x1.9mm
Well done Steven Wilkes
This is a nice guide for a machine that I found to be a nightmare to work on - mainly due to the (all too common) practice of using snap-together plastic components, rather than screws. After the plastic has aged for a few years it inevitably becomes brittle and the clips often break during disassembly. My machine was a Krups Nissia XN100 model what was just on five years old. While there were some differences in the design, your guide was very useful - particularly so because your photos are clear and detailed. I found a leak at the “front” of the heater at the join to the black plastic moulding that forms part of the heater assembly. In an earlier comment, I saw that it’s possible to separate the plastic moulding from the heater so that the O-ring seal can be replaced. Despite applying quite a lot of force, I couldn’t get mine apart :-( I’ve since found that I can buy a new machine for less than three times the cost of a new heater assembly, so I decided to abandon the repair.
Can someone tell me if there is a small circuit-board battery in there that one can remove/replace to reset the machine?
Thanks for this excellent guide. I am nearly there, a utube video suggests it is an o ring. Just need to get the second inner side off now and I should be there! I suspect I will need glue/gaffer tape to re-assemble, I heard a lot of clips breaking to get to this stage…..
This video might help too: https://youtu.be/TY_B_Ytz0Yw
Great helpful guide! My heater assembly was leaking. Ordered a new one on partmaster.co.uk which was half the price of one on a Dutch website. For certainty I also replaced the high pressure connector and o-rings.
I also had a leak between the metal and plastic part of the heater assembly. This was due to a worn o-ring. I could get the plastic part removed by rotating and applying a bit of force. I replaced the o-ring with a new MS-0071881 but still it was leaking. I assumed due to little pressure reamaining. I added a second o-ring on the other side of the small plastic pipe inside the boiler, this added just some extra pressure on the new sealing ring to make it seal.
Buongiorno, la mia inissia si surriscalda troppo, dopo un solo caffè diventa bollente nella parte superiore, il caffè è ustionante, prima di berlo devono passare almeno 7/8 minuti. Cosa può essere?
Mrci bcp vip
For the Magimix the O-ring in the chamber has OD 32mm with a ringwidth of 3mm, so ID(32-6=)26 Look for FDA/ Foodgrade O-rings, with compound ‘70’. They are availlable online (in the Netherlands at least, prices range from eur 8,50 (10-pack) to eur 6,50 a piece.)
Type info: O-ring 32x3 - VMQ - MVQ - Silicone - 70 Shore A - Red - FDA - ORS9901
Excelente informe de despiece, muchas gracias por compartirlo
can someone tell me why there isnt any water coming out of my machine, yes the pump does still turn onn but there isnt any water coming out.
hi ,
can i buy spare parts from ifixit ? for example the white plastic pin inside the thin spring at step 13
thanks
Hola Ahmed Abbas Ifixit no dispone de piezas de repuesto de Nespresso, piezas tan concretas generalmente no se venden ni por otros distribuodores has de comprar un conjunto.
Hola Carlos López ,
muchas gracias
cuando pulso los botones,se encienden los dos haciendo pausas cada tres encendidos ,y no paran que puede ser el motivo ??, gracias
moy5099 - Replica
Prueba esto: Apague la máquina, mantenga pulsado el botón derecho (vaso grande) hasta que el botón izquierdo parpadee 3 veces, listo. Si esto no funciona: Apague, desenchufe, espere 1min, enchufe y continúe como arriba.
Si tienes mala suerte, esta es la causa: Nespresso CitiZ Kondensatoren tauschen
VauWeh -
Nello spaccato manca la parte che sta a contatto con le capsule e la leggenda con i numeri di riferimento dei pezzi.
Riccardo Ricci - Replica