Salta al contenuto principale

Cosa ti serve

Panoramica Video

Questo smontaggio non è una guida di riparazione. Per riparare il tuo Nintendo Switch, usa il nostro manuale di assistenza.

  1. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch, Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 1, immagine 1 di 2 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch, Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 1, immagine 2 di 2
    • Merry Switchmas a tutti! Ecco l'hardware alloggiato nella nuova consolle ibrida portatile di Nintendo:

    • Processore specificamente adattato Nvidia Tegra

    • Schermo LCD multi-touch integrato da 6.2" con risoluzione 1280 × 720 (supporta un output a 1920 × 1080 su display esterno collegato tramite HDMI)

    • 32 GB di memorizzazione interna (espandibile fino a 2 TB con schede microSDHC o microSDXC)

    • Wi-Fi 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac, Bluetooth 4.1, presa di ricarica USB-C e jack audio da 3,5 mm sulla console— oltre a tre prese USB standard sullo Switch Dock

    • Altoparlanti stereo

    • Batteria ricaricabile al litio-ioni per 2,5-6,5 ore di gioco

    • Joy-Con wireless staccabili

  2. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 2, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 2, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 2, immagine 3 di 3
    • Gli smontaggi sono davvero difficili, perciò i nostri amici di Creative Electron hanno pensato di farci risparmiare tempo passando ai raggi X l'intera confezione.

    • Questo non ha fatto altro che incuriosirci ancora di più in vista del nostro tour completo dell'hardware. Abbiamo tirato fuori la consolle dalla scatola e dal dock e abbiamo realizzato un'altra immagine a raggi X, così per sport.

    • È una batteria bella grassa quella che stiamo spiando?

    • È ora di spegnere i raggi X e di mettere in moto gli attrezzi.

    propaganda? where?

    Daniel Arens - Replica

    They spy, we spy but we won't tapp that...

    Mike Atkins - Replica

    A beefy battery? Where? *Laugh track*

    Jackson Peter Conway - Replica

  3. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 3, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 3, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 3, immagine 3 di 3
    • Prima di spingerci troppo in là, prendiamo nota dell'offerta Nintendo. Abbiamo la consolle in quanto tale, due Joy-Con, un dock e il Joy-Con Grip.

    • Con i Joy-Con attaccati, la consolle Switch è larga circa 24 cm, alta 10 e spessa solo 14 mm.

    • Nonostante le funzionalità in più, la consolle dotata di Joy-Con pesa solo 398 grammi, meno dei 491 grammi del Wii U GamePad.

  4. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 4, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 4, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 4, immagine 3 di 3
    • Via, si parte con lo smontaggio!

    • La prima cosa che notiamo è lo strano logo Domino's il codice del modello—HAC-001.

    • Fatto un rapido giro del dispositivo, troviamo queste prese e interfacce:

    • Alloggiamento per microSD disposto sotto il supporto di appoggio (sorprendentemente rigido).

    • USB-C (per il dock)

    • Jack cuffie standard da 3,5 mm

    • Le feritoie per le ventole in alto e i report iniziali ci dicono che lo Switch fa un largo uso di questo canale di raffreddamento quando è integrato nel dock e impegnato con la grafica 1080p.

    Any chance the USB-C port supports Thunderbolt 3? I've been holding out hope it does and Nintendo will sell a "Pro Dock" that has an eGPU for better performance while docked.

    Toby Turner - Replica

    You could do that with USB 3.1..

    SpyderCanopus - Replica

    3.5mm headphone jack. You didn't mention anything about TRRS. Does that mean that there is no audio / microphone in?

    Nicholas Wagner - Replica

  5. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 5, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 5, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 5, immagine 3 di 3
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Mako Driver Kit - 64 Precision Bits
    $39.95
    Compra
    • Purtroppo troviamo delle viti tri-wing a presidiare l'ingresso a Hyrule allo Switch, ma alla fine è sufficiente 1/64 della nostra forza muscolare.

    • Le viti tri-wing sono la versione Nintendo del cartello "Divieto d'accesso" ma, una volta rimosse, la cover posteriore si solleva con facilità: non ci sono clip o adesivi.

    • Il nostro primo sguardo all'interno ci fa scoprire... non molto. Solo una schermatura di metallo.

    • Tuttavia, una volta rimossa la cover posteriore, la scheda modulare della microSD si può sostituire facilmente. Buone notizie, a... memoria futura.

    Whats the model of SD card reader will it read UHS 3 SD cards??

    peacepipe_au - Replica

    2mm Tri-Wing screws.

    Aaron Taylor - Replica

    OK, This is extremely misleading. Good thing I’m a repair tech. There are also about 5 more phillips screws around that need to be removed before the back will come off. One by the SD card reader, one on each side in the center, 2 on the bottom and one on the top

    Jonathan White - Replica

    Hi Jonathan, this is just a teardown, and as such we skip some disassembly steps to get to the more interesting stuff quicker. It’s not meant to be used as a repair guide. We do have more more in-depth guides here that can be referenced for repairs.

    Adam O'Camb - Replica

    For some reason my screws were different in my switch I was trying to repair. I ordered the screwdriver that came with 2 bits and the se card reader but the bits wouldn’t fit the screws.

    caleb payne - Replica

    There are more screws than this guide will say.

    1x middle of each joy-con rail (2 total).

    2x bottom near the charge port

    1x top near the audio jack

    1x just under the microSD flap

    each is a small Phillips head.

    Misunderstood Wookiee - Replica

    Hi! Sorry for the confusion with screws! This is a teardown! There is a warning at the top but it might have been missed: “This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nintendo Switch, use our service manual.”

    Chris Cline - Replica

    The platic thread of one of the screws broke while screwing it out.. I used to push the screw a little bit to prevent over-turning the head while unscrewing - it broke while pushing. Maybe it was a bad assembly, but its worth mentioning that it can possibly break inside.. and you have to deal with a loose screw after then. (Any Ideas?)

    Varco - Replica

    How can you to a teardown guide, without showing witch screws to remove, i thought you ifixit guys knew your stuf and were indebth, will find another guide screw this

    Mathias rønne - Replica

    Yeah I'm attempting something that requires complete disassembly, it would be nice to have a generic guide for that that includes all the steps rather than having to look up how to remove each individual component. I thought the teardown would be the obvious place for that, but apparently this is just, what, for entertainment purposes? Idk, I think it's definitely possible to show all the interesting internals while giving a detailed step-by-step guide for total disassembly, especially for guys like me who mainly just need to know where the screws are.

    Joshua Coffey - Replica

  6. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • E ora il momento che tutti noi stavamo aspettando: la scoperta dell'interno. Sta finalmente accadendo!

    • Sembra... un computer. Batteria, condotto termico, pasta termica, ventola. C'è tutto.

    • Le priorità dello Switch sono evidenti: batteria e raffreddamento.

    • Guardando quella macchia violacea, si capisce che questa piastra metallica va oltre lo scopo del puro supporto strutturale. È anche un dissipatore che incanala il calore dal condotto termico al case posteriore.

    • Questa soluzione dovrebbe diffondere il calore, evitando punti caldi che potrebbero fondere la plastica o scottarti le dita.

    If we were to remove the back plate, what should we use to replace the purple compound used to transfer heat. Should we use typical CPU/GPU thermal paste such as Arctic Silver or is it even necessary to replace the compound?

    Ambyli - Replica

    i don’t think it would hurt to do so, but i am no expert.

    Grockle88 _ - Replica

    I would like to replace the purple glob with a copper shim, any guesses to the distance between the heat sink and aluminum shield?

    Alan Li - Replica

    is the battery a single or multi-cell unit?

    joseph.s.schaefer - Replica

  7. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 7, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 7, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 7, immagine 3 di 3
    • Prima di tutto la sicurezza: togliamo il connettore della batteria prima di staccarla dal suo adesivo.

    • La maggior parte delle consolle hanno un alimentatore esterno invece di una batteria, ma la portabilità dello Switch richiede un'alimentazione senza fili. Il che di solito implica una vita utile limitata.

    • Diversamente dal 3DS, non è previsto che la batteria dello Switch sia sostituibile dall'utente. Piuttosto Nintendo "prevede di" offrire un programma di sostituzione a pagamento.

    • Lo Switch integra una batteria da 16 Wh, molto più grande di quella sostituibile da 5,6 Wh del Wii U GamePad. Lo ripetiamo, si tratta di alimentare una consolle e non solo un display.

    How is this battery not "User replaceable"?

    Bally - Replica

    It is user replaceable, but it was meant to cause replacement difficulty, which discourages inexperienced repairers.

    Russell Repair Co. -

    It means is not that easy, you have to tear it down almost completely in order to replace it.

    Ricardo Briceño - Replica

    The lack of a user replaceable battery in this thing is BY FAR the lamest thing about it IMO... Though unfortunatly to be fair Vita's the same way. SO crazy lame.

    Also sort of weird it has a cooling fan. I wasn't expecting that. Maybe it's off when undocked and running slower?

    wolfpup3 - Replica

    whats the weight of the switch battery in grams? and what type of battery cell is it?

    justin thorpe - Replica

    @Ricardo - I’m no fan of having to tear it down a bit to replace the battery, but this is by no means having to “tear it down almost completely in order to replace it.” I mean dude, steps 1-5 of this tear down consist of looking at the device, identifying the ports, and removing a few screws. After the screws you just lift the metal shield and unplug your battery. Not exactly rocket science. Step 5 even says, “but once you're past them the back cover lifts off easily—no clips or adhesive” so this couldn’t possibly get any easier. In fact after I remove those tri-point screws, I’ll just replace them with normal screws for future ease.

    Army Turtle - Replica

    Can this battery be charged by power bank ? (5V 1-2A?) any recomendations how to “mobile-charge” this console ?

    Rodryk Pawłowski - Replica

    Yes, it can be done. With a 20000 mAh power bank the portable console can last at least 10 hours while enjoying a game like MHXX.

    Irrawa -

    Hello, my battery connector is broken. Anybody knows where can I buy a new one?

    Thanks,

    joan

    Joan - Replica

    No glue breaker.?

    Jean Ordehi - Replica

  8. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    • Venuti a capo della batteria, ci rivolgiamo alla successiva priorità hardware: il sistema di raffreddamento.

    • Il condotto termico è fissato da semplici viti Phillips, il che significa filar via lisci con la riapplicazione della pasta termica in fase di rimontaggio.

    • Cerchiamo di arrivare alla ventola, ma sembra che da qui si possa soltanto pulire: è intrappolata sotto la scheda di interfaccia I/O.

    • E quindi estraiamo il lettore di game card e il jack degli altoparlanti che è collegato.

    • E, no, non abbiamo leccato nessuna card.

    Is the 3.5 mm jack a TRS or TRRS?

    Erin Lewis - Replica

    Is the chassis metal? It looks metalic through the screw holes.

    alan mail - Replica

    Yes. It is metallic.

    Diego Salerno - Replica

    @elrinley I’m sure you’ve figured this out by now, but according to Nintendo the jack is a 4-pole headphone/mic jack.

    https://www.nintendo.com/switch/tech-spe...

    I was looking for the same information and ended up here! :)

    ckoerner - Replica

  9. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 9, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 9, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 9, immagine 3 di 3
    • Con la scheda I/O libera, possiamo concentrarci sulla ventola.

    • Questa ventola Delta Electronics è tenuta in posizione da tre viti con piedini antivibrazione in gomma ed è da 5 V e 0,33 A.

    • La presenza di una ventola equivale a una sentenza di morte per l'autonomia della batteria in ogni dispositivo portatile; perciò hanno senso le voci sulla grafica ritenuta drasticamente undercloccata in assenza di collegamento al dock.

    • Oltre a risparmiare energia indirizzando meno pixel, questa soluzione dovrebbe anche permettere allo Switch di usare meno la ventola a ulteriore beneficio dei consumi.

    I have a switch that won't power up but clicks for a few seconds when the new battery is replaced. Is it the fan taking the power so it can boot up or is it the fan is broken and prevents it from starting up?

    Kirsty Cobbold - Replica

  10. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 10, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 10, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 10, immagine 3 di 3
    • Questa è una scheda madre molto ben connessa; per liberarla, estraiamo i connettori di digitizer, retroilluminazione e altoparlanti, due antenne e le due guide per i Joy-Con. E poi rimuoviamo sei viti Phillips.

    • Ehi, questa è una notevole modularità. Perfino il supporto di memorizzazione eMMC viene via insieme a un circuito stampato indipendente!

    • Nintendo ha realizzato un tablet da 6,2" con memoria flash rimovibile, quindi non dite che non si può fare.

    • La scheda di supporto alla memoria contiene una singola eMMC NAND Flash da 32 GB Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL.

    • Purtroppo, la modularità finisce con la porta USB-C. Questo componente destinato a un'usura elevata richiede una notevole abilità nelle saldature per un'eventuale sostituzione.

    What does "Side-A" of the HAC-EMMC daughter board containing the single Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL 32 GB eMMC NAND Flash IC look like?

    Jonathan Stanley - Replica

    The USB port is soldered to the board conatining the most important hardware? I'd almost call this a form of planned obsolescence

    Nicola Pfister - Replica

    my usb c port just gave up on me and nintendo say it's not covered under the warranty. … the switch has hardly left the dock! nintendo say 175 pounds to replace the port! looks like i need to find another option! like learn to solder!

    steve -

    Is the flash soldered on to the PCB? If so, I wonder how hard it is to remove and swap with a bigger eMMC flash drive from Toshiba.

    Jerome Santander - Replica

    Looks like a Toshiba does make a 512Gb NAND flash model. Now the only question is can you switch between two flashes before bootup with this.

    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e...

    b0n3z - Replica

    I just succesfully  soldered a new usb C port to the switch but it's pretty hard to do.

    First of all, I used a hot air soldering workstation. Replaced all the (presumably) leadfree solder with normal leaded solder for better flexibility and a lower melting point. The difficult part is to make both rows of connections connect. This can be achieved by heating the board on the other side while somehow keeping pressure on the usbport and making sure the plastic components of the usbport don't melt. Quite a challenge!

    What did the trick, for me at least, was to cut out a metal strip from a soda can, folded over and cut to the exact same width as to cover the plastic and serve as a heatshield. Also I used no-clean solderflux.

    dan.kusters - Replica

    Nice. Thanks for sharing your experience.

    Lisandro Duran -

    I also replaced the USb C port with a hot air soldering station. The most difficult part was to clean the 4 holes on the pbc that anchor the port. They must be completely cleaned from any soldering residual because you need to be able to freely push the port down against the pbc once the 24 ports pads are heated and with the solder melted.

    Diego Salerno - Replica

    I can feel you! I’m still trying to get all the solder out of the 4 holes. I begin to believe that I’m just to stupid to achieve it.

    Nintendoc -

    Just to share some experience: I got a (heavily) used Switch that worked fine in handheld mode, but would cut off TV output always after a few minutes or even seconds when docked. The dock is fine, as is the USB-C connector. So I disassembled the whole thing and found the USB multiplexer (PI3USB30532) on the back side of the mainboard (see step 12) to be improperly soldered. One row of pins was slightly lifted off from the PCB, most likely giving a bad contact on some differential pairs. This obviously was a manufacturing problem but may have gone unnoticed in the factory tests. I then added some solder to the pins and now the Switch works flawlessly, also when docked.

    phip - Replica

  11. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Una piccola folla di Miis circuiti integrati popola il lato frontale della scheda madre:

    • NVIDIA ODNX02-A2 (presumibilmente il SoC basato su Tegra X1)

    • 2 DRAM LPDDR4 da 2 GB ciascuna Samsung K4F6E304HB-MGCH

    • SoC Broadcom/Cypress BCM4356 802.11ac 2×2 + Bluetooth 4.1

    • Regolatore di tensione Step-Down 3 fasi Maxim Integrated MAX77621AEWI+T (x2)

    • IC gestione alimentazione M92T36 630380

    Is that an LCI near the USB-C connector?

    Positive Intent - Replica

    There’s the connectivity issue! The series elements in the T-networks feeding the RF connectors are unpopulated, meaning the antennas aren’t connected. This is probably causing a 20dB-40dB hit in RF performance and decreasing battery life. If this is a production unit, Nintendo has a recall on their hands; software can’t fix that.

    john horne - Replica

    To be fair, there is a chance those series components have a tiny net tie across them, shorting them out. I can't tell from these photos. This would be cheaper than a jumper resistor, even at $0.001 each. They avoided slikscreen which does indicate they might be trying to aggressively keep PCB costs down. I wish I could get a closer look.

    john horne -

    What kind of adapter would you choose to replace the battery interface adapter? JST EH5P ST90 or something else?

    Hans Müller - Replica

    Has anyone found the original manufacturer and partnumber of the USB-Port?

    I did find a part that looks similar, but not perfectly the same: Amphenol-MCP 101-C4740-02432

    Benedikt M. - Replica

    Where do you get MAX77621AEWI+T ? Nobody has them in stock.

    chayney shuck - Replica

    Im surprised this didnt lose reparability points for the soldered rather than replaceable usb port.

    Kiernan - Replica

    Is the ram upgradable or directly soldered? If upgradable, would it require software, or do you think it is plug & play?

    azileangel4u - Replica

    Unfortunately the RAM’s directly soldered.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I know that there are 2 different motherboards so i was wondering, on the newer motherboard the section with the Maxim Integrated MAX77621AEWI+T three phase buck regulator, that is in-between the temp sensor and bluetooth, mine does not have any of those components right there. any way to update the pictures for people who are currently looking so they know. It also looks like the buck regulator has changed also

    Davin Atkins - Replica

    sorry the motherboard in it is HAD-CPU-01

    Davin Atkins -

  12. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Mentre sul retro della scheda madre ci sono:

    • Matrix switch USB 3.0/DP1.2 Pericom Semiconductor PI3USB30532

    • Codec audio Realtek ALC5639

    • PMIC (Chip gestione alimentazione) Maxim Integrated MAX77620AEWJ+T

    • B1633 GCBRG HAC STD T1001216

    How come the accelerometer and gyroscope was never labeled for both the main system or the controllers? I didn’t even know the main system had them until a researched out Super Mario Party did it’s adjacent screens trick. Then I checked Nintendo’s own website which states that it has one.

    obiwankenobi23 - Replica

    Modern accel + gyro ICs are tiny and often use cryptic package markings that can take a fair bit of work for us to identify. We’d love to research and label them all, but we don’t always have the time. They’re definitely in there though!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  13. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 13, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 13, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 13, immagine 3 di 3
    • Gli altoparlanti stereo aderiscono lievemente al case posteriore, ma non c'è da lottare molto per venirne a capo.

    • Questi altoparlanti sembrano studiati per pompare i bassi. Le membrane più grandi spostano più aria e la cassa posteriore dovrebbe far risuonare meglio i bassi. Ma i report iniziali dicono che anche così l'audio privilegia i bassi.

    • Gli innesti dei Joy-Con sono fissati con viti Phillips su ogni lato della consolle.

    • Ognuno degli innesti ha una serie di pin corrispondenti ad altrettanti contatti dei Joy-Con per trasferire l'alimentazione e per riportare alla scheda madre le pressioni esercitate sui pulsanti tramite un cavo piatto.

    Do you know similar speakers which can be used as replacement?

    Jube - Replica

    Im not sure, but they look the same as the New 3ds ones

    tbolado -

    I was able to successfully replace mine with a New 3DS speaker

    Mptp - Replica

    My left speaker just blew!! how does the 3DS speaker hold up ?

    Scott Jones - Replica

  14. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 14, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 14, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 14, immagine 3 di 3
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    iOpener
    $12.99
    Compra
    • Diversamente da molti dispositivi moderni dotati di touchscreen, il dìgitizer dello Switch non è fuso insieme al display, il che significa che si possono sostituire le due parti in modo indipendente. Grazie per aver tenuto conto della riparabilità, Nintendo!

    • Il digitizer è attaccato tramite una striscia biadesiva tutta attorno al perimetro del display. Con un po' di riscaldamento e facendo leva, riusciamo a convincere il digitizer a staccarsi.

    • Ma nella frenesia dell'operazione, il nostro smontatore frettoloso ha rotto il cavo dati del digitizer. I riparatori sono avvertiti, bisogna aprirlo facendo perno sul lato lungo.

    Is the digitizer glass or plastic??

    Paul Reynolds - Replica

    ^^ I'd like to know this as well.

    Lucas Luxton - Replica

    It feels like and flexes like plastic.

    dave - Replica

    It is plastic.

    Evan Noronha - Replica

    It's perma-fused to the plastic, I take it? If so I'm rather disappointed. I'm not fond of screen protectors and would much rather someone put out a replacement instead.

    Erin Lewis - Replica

    So the Screen is technically replaceable? Would it be possible to put a new screen on?

    Mitchell Laurence - Replica

    It technically can but be aware the process is quite extensive and technical so in other words if you need a replacement screen, either pay a professional, not some dude off CL who says he can to do it or watch a lot of how-to videos and USE the right tools. I work at a business that fixes cellphones professionally so believe me when I say it can be done but very, very meticulous and technical.

    Josh McCard -

  15. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 15, immagine 1 di 1
    • La ciliegina sulla torta? Il display LCD si rimuove facilmente!

    • Aumentare la portabilità di un dispositivo, di solito significa aumentare le possibilità che cada per terra. Ben fatto, Nintendo: di fronte a un dispositivo più soggetto a rotture, l'ha reso più facilmente aggiustabile.

    • E con questo, la consolle è sistemata, ma non abbiamo ancora finito.

    • E adesso dove abbiamo messo quei controller...

    hello , is it IPS or TN or VA LCD ?

    ttt ttt - Replica

    IPS by Japan Display Inc. But what is the LCD model #?

    Girl Usocrzy - Replica

    hello there i was wondering what type of connecter does screen have

    sir spudly - Replica

  16. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 16, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 16, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 16, immagine 3 di 3
    • Nintendo prevede dei colori diversi per ricordarci che questi Joy-Con apparentemente identici in realtà si differenziano per l'hardware contenuto all'interno.

    • A contenuti diversi corrispondono codici modello diversi: il controller in tinta neon blu si chiama HAC-015, quello neon rosso HAC-016.

    • Non ti piacciono le tonalità neon? Se sei bravo con gli adesivi, puoi nascondere i colori originali.

    • I Joy-Con non sono impermeabili e Nintendo addirittura raccomanda di non usarli vicino all'acquario di casa...

    • … oppure vicino a un computer portatile, a una cuffia wireless, a una stampante wireless, un forno a microonde, altoparlanti wireless, smart watch, telefono cordless: in pratica sarebbe meglio usarli dentro una grotta o sotto terra.

    Any idea on the type of plastic for the Joy-Con shells? ABS, nylon, something else (if so, what)?

    Jonathan Stanley - Replica

    If you didn't already notice- the step 17 photos of the inside of the shells seem to indicate it's polycarbonate + ABS

    David Eltzroth -

    I sort of wish I'd been able to get the model that includes the red/blue controllers LOL

    wolfpup3 - Replica

    I broke my Joy Con a while back and the 2L button is missing. Would you happen to know where I can get a replacement part for that?

    Clinton Wong - Replica

    3D printer: www.thingiverse.com Search “Nintendo Switch Joycon”

    Army Turtle -

  17. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 17, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 17, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 17, immagine 3 di 3
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Spudger
    $2.99
    Compra
    • Anche se non siamo genetisti, prendiamo il bisturi lo spudger per confrontare questi due gemelli.

    • Ogni controller è equipaggiato con una batteria al litio-ioni da 1,9 Wh, Bluetooth, accelerometro/giroscopio e un motore aptico "HD Rumble" per la vibrazione.

    • La sostituzione della batteria non è certamente facile come nei comandi originali Wii, ma si può fare.

    • Nintendo afferma che i controller Joy-Con offrono fino a 20 ore di tempo di gioco, ma servono 3,5 ore per ricaricarli.

    • Se questo non bastasse, si può avere l'impugnatura Joy-Con charging grip per caricare le batterie e avere una maggiore ergonomia.

    Might want to clarify that the Joy-Con charging grip does not have a battery so there is no boost from the grip itself. You have to plug the grip into a power source (through USB) to get the joy-cons to charge at all when they are attached to the charging grip. Otherwise the grip acts exactly like the included non-charging grip.

    Brice Gilbert - Replica

    Oh goody...more sealed proprietary batteries. LAME.

    wolfpup3 - Replica

    The right joycon has a little black card slotted next to the battery. Anyone know what that is?

    Phrik Graves - Replica

    • C'è stata qualche voce iniziale di problemi di durata con il meccanismo di accoppiamento delle unità Joy-Con, per questo ci fermiamo a dare un'occhiata da vicino.

    • La slitta di accoppiamento, a lato della consolle Switch, è di metallo e sembra che possa resistere molto bene.

    • La parte corrispondente dal lato del Joy-Con è in plastica e probabilmente è una soluzione gradita all'utente: un'eventuale rottura dovrebbe avvenire dal lato del controller staccabile, che si suppone sia più economico da riparare o sostituire se necessario.

    This piece of plastic in joy-con can be exchanged for example metal? It should be better than plastic

    Robert - Replica

    Where would I find the metal replacement ?

    Chris Cruz - Replica

    For replacement, search google for Alloy Buckle Lock

    Niklas Hansen - Replica

  18. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 19, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 19, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 19, immagine 3 di 3
    • I controller, tolta la pelle, si mostrano per un confronto da vicino. Eccoli, Red vs Blue.

    • Ma noi non siamo superficiali: conta quello che c'è dentro. Il Joy-Con rosso viene per primo, con hardware a infrarossi e un'antenna NFC.

    • L'hardware IR consiste di una fotocamera IR e di 4 LED a luce infrarossa. Nintendo dice che la fotocamera può rilevare diverse forme delle mani, la distanza e in futuro potrà registrare dei video. Quanto ai LED, supponiamo che illuminino con gli infrarossi gli oggetti vicini per renderne più facile l'identificazione.

    • Sai che cosa c'è in entrambi? Due viti Phillips per fissare il joystick e due viti Phillips per fissare la scheda.

    • Blu, sei al servizio di noi riparatori quando serve.

    • Sul fondo di ognuno, per la vibrazione c'è un possente HD Rumble motor del peso di 5,5 grammi.

    I had to send my Left Joy-Con for a repair on day one because the L button was acting erratically. I first noticed it when I tried to write my credit card number. I had made a mistake and tried to go back using tbe L button. When I pressed the button, my text cursor moved all the way to the left even though the button was in normal position (seemingly unpressed).

    I wonder what caused this. Fun fact: Pressing the plastic piece between ZL and L button activated the sensor for L button.

    Does the iFixit team has any idea what caused my problem? Thanks!

    Philippe Morin - Replica

    Any component info on the Joystick? Manufacturer ROM etc?

    Eamonn Clerkin - Replica

    the left Joy-Con Joystick and the right Joy-Con Joystick are the same?

    4646dudu - Replica

    does some one know what could be the problem, after replacing the joy stick everythink works fine except that the switch doesn’t detect the joy con attached to it but if i conect it to it, it stills charge the joy con

    Rodrigo Barba - Replica

    Left joy-con zif connector has lifted from the motherboard everything is intact and connected to the connection ribbon how do you reattach the actual white piece to the motherboard???

    Zeshi - Replica

  19. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 20, immagine 1 di 2 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 20, immagine 2 di 2
    • Stacchiamo le schede del controller cercando altro silicio. Ecco la scheda rossa in tutta la sua gloria (la scheda blu ha una forma un po' diversa, ma condivide la maggior parte degli elementi):

    • Ricetrasmettitore Bluetooth 4.1/2.4 GHz Broadcom BCM20734

    • STMicroelectronics NFCBEA 812006 33 (Probabilmente un lettore NFC reader)

    • Memoria Flash CMOS da 4MB Macronix International MX25U4033E

    The chip in the center of the board is probably a Bosch BMI160 (6-DOF Inertial sensor)

    Luko - Replica

    Would love to see photos of both controller PCBs. Only one side is shown.

    Jeff Keyzer - Replica

    I would also like to have both joy-con because I had to send the Left one for a repair because I had troubles with the L button.

    Philippe Morin - Replica

    Is that white quad next to home button LED?

    Damian Wielk - Replica

    Does anyone know whether the joycons use this chip in Classic/EDR mode, or in Smart/LE mode?

    fury - Replica

    How can I buy this whole piece?

    Fantasia Ford - Replica

    What is the chip between Red & Orange?

    INKI CHAE - Replica

  20. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 21, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 21, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 21, immagine 3 di 3
    • Aggiornamento Smontaggio: giusto per essere sicuri di non lasciare nulla di intentato, abbiamo tolto il coperchio al motore di feedback aptico, un attuatore risonante lineare (LRA) che fa vibrare l'HD Rumble.

    • Questi LRA somigliano molto quelli che abbiamo tirato fuori dai controller Oculus Touch, dall'HTC Vive e dallo Steam Controller.

    • Abbiamo dedicato qualche istante ad aprire un motore aptico dell'Oculus Touch e ci è sembrato internamente identico a questo.

    • All'interno, questo motore di vibrazione sembra di tipo standard. È essenzialmente una bobina di tipo voicecoil installata in un gruppo con una massa mobile, con un potente magnete a ogni estremità.

    • È comunque interessante notare che questa LRA sembra vibrare lungo il suo asse più corto, mentre molti motori di feedback aptico che abbiamo visto finora sembrano vibrare longitudinalmente.

    What, no slow mo video?

    kyletallent - Replica

    If it is like this haptic module, it appears to be able to oscillate in 2 axes: http://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Act...

    Aziz Nawrozie - Replica

    pretty sure it is the Alps dual axis haptic. It only needs two wires because the magnets are polarized diagonally.

    Max Chen - Replica

    it occilates in two directions at different frequencies. Only needs two wires because the magnets are magnetized diagonally (half the face is North and half is South.)

    Max Chen - Replica

  21. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 22, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 22, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 22, immagine 3 di 3
    • Prima di introdurci furtivamente in casa dello Switch, abbiamo fatto fare una ricognizione preliminare ai nostri amici di Creative Electron. Non volevamo imbatterci in qualche trappola minata.

    • Siamo sinceri: questa immagine a raggi X è più interessante di quello che abbiamo scoperto all'interno. In ogni caso, il dock consiste di una scheda dentro la scatola con alcune porte esterne, che includono:

    • Due Porte USB 2.0

    • Porta per l'alimentatore di rete

    • Porta HDMI

    • Una Porta USB 3.0

    • Nintendo riferisce che al lancio dello Switch la porta USB posteriore supporterà solo l'USB 2.0. Un aggiornamento successivo la porterà allo standard 3.0.

    thanks for info on this.

    does this dock board have power regulator/protection/fuse/whateveryoumaycallit that protects the switch in case the official charger goes haywire?

    MyPerk Tv - Replica

    How much ampere are the USB ports ??

    iltenerone - Replica

    What is the FFC connected to?

    Adam Cove - Replica

  22. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 23, immagine 1 di 2 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 23, immagine 2 di 2
    • I chip dalla parte del dock:

    • Memoria Flash CMOS da 512 Kb Macronix International MX25L512E

    • Memoria Flash CMOS da 2 Mb Macronix International MX25V2006E

    • Convertitore da Mobility DisplayPort (MyDP) a HDMI Megachips STDP2550

    • M92T17 623382

    • STMicroelectronics 32P048

    • Hub Controller USB 3.0 VIA Labs VL210

    • M92T55 633416

    Got some issues with the coloring of your little rectangles. M92T55 is pink on the photo, and the M92T17 is dark blue.

    LDM - Replica

    What's the dimension of the motherboard?

    Zero - Replica

    I would love it if someone could provide a drawing of the motherboard with dimensions in inches. For 3d printing purposes.

    Rcmaniac Ten -

    can get a name/model of the ribbon cable from the board that finishes as usb-c?

    rusenikolovski - Replica

    I need the same information. Have you figured it out yet?

    The Real JaeLinx -

    I need another ribbon cable. What type would be a good replacement

    The Real JaeLinx - Replica

    M92T17 is an ROHM chip.

    Blue - Replica

    What’s the part on the dock pcb that holds the ribbon cable (zif connector )

    Hooligan - 69 - Replica

    I’ve got no HDMI out from my dock to my TV. There’s no visible damage anywhere so I’m thinking of putting a new HDMI port onto it. Any other suggestions before I do that? I’ve done all the regular troubleshooting.

    modtang - Replica

  23. Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 24, immagine 1 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 24, immagine 2 di 3 Smontaggio Nintendo Switch: passo 24, immagine 3 di 3
    • È ora di stupirti con la nostra foto migliore alcune foto del complessivo! Ecco qui i vari componenti interni del Nintendo, graziosamente allineati.

    • Grazie ancora ai nostri eroi dotati di super-vista della Creative Electron!

    • Ora ci apprestiamo a rimontare questa cosa nel più breve tempo possibile: è ora di giocare.

  24. Considerazioni Finali
    • A parte il digitizer, sono state usate viti invece di adesivo per fissare i vari componenti.
    • La maggior parte dei componenti, compresi gli stick analogici, il lettore cartucce e il jack altoparlante sono modulari e possono essere sostituiti.
    • Le batterie, benché siano incollate ai rispettivi alloggiamenti, sono modulari e possono essere sostituite dall'utente finale.
    • Il digitizer e il display non sono fusi insieme, riducendo il costo di riparazione ma aumentando la complessità.
    • Le viti proprietarie tri-wing scoraggiano gli utenti che vogliono aprire lo Switch.
    • La sostituzione del display o del digitizer richiede un preriscaldamento e l'uso di levette per staccare il tenace adesivo.
    Punteggio Riparabilità
    8
    Riparabilità 8 su 10
    (10 è il più facile da riparare)

Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:

en it

82%

Questi traduttori ci stanno aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›

Evan Noronha

Membro da: 02/05/15

223.223 Reputazione

168 Guide realizzate

135 Commenti

So there's 4GB RAM?

Christopher Meyer - Replica

Yes it has 4GB of RAM in the form of 2x 16Gb (or 2 gigabyte each) Samsung LPDDR4 RAM chips.

acaaew -

Does the HD Rumble operate the same way Apple's Taptic Engine works?

Dimitri Bouniol - Replica

Probably not. The Taptic Engine is a linear oscillator, but the Switch probably uses a 3-D oscillator: That means the weight can move freely in all three directions.

Ethan Zuo -

Single pair of wires means single axis of movement.

Lemming -

two wires true, but magnets are magnetized diagonally and the W shape of the spring arms gives different spring rate in X and Y. Powered, the coil moved diagonally to the corner. Once let go, it occilates in different frequencies in X and Y.

Max Chen -

surprised to learn there's 4GB of RAM

Kai - Replica

Well it's double the RAM in the Wii U. Four times as much if you count the 1 GB used by the Wii U OS when not playing games.

Ethan Zuo -

But also let's not compare Apples and Oranges, ARM architecture needs much less RAM than x86 to perform well, you can't simply compare ARM, PowerPC and x86 with 4GB of RAM and think they will all have the same performance.

theSUBVERSIVE -

<<<But also let's not compare Apples and Oranges, ARM architecture needs much less RAM than x86 to perform well>>>

No it doesn't. That's just...not correct at all.

And yeah, Switch has 2x the RAM as Wii U, though who knows how much will be accessible by games. Obviously all consoles reserve some RAM, but for some reason the Wii U reserved half of it (though that still left more than 2x the RAM versus 360 and PS3, which is maybe why they didn't care that they were reserving so much).

wolfpup3 -

Does the micro sd slot support UHS II (ie. has support for two rows of pins inside)? No one seems to care about this info in the teardowns lol

rosta.pospisil - Replica

I care a lot myself too. I would even like to know what spec version of the SD Association it supports. Does it only comply to version 3.01 (UHS-1) or could it comply to the new 5.1 version or even 6.0?

Philippe Morin -

Thank god i'm not the only one that cares about this. The difference between UHS-I and II could mean half of game load times from the microSD.

Ashler -

I too would like to know this. [and on all devices.]

Josh -

Looking at the photos, It does not have the extra pins, it only has 8 legs, common for a plain SD card reader.

Toby Webb -

Game load times always seem to be CPU bottlenecked on consoles anyway.

alexatkin -

Please deconstruct the rumble motor

Vince - Replica

Possibly the most interesting part of the design.

fastm3driver -

Do we know the thermal envelope of the cpu/gpu? I'm wondering if it's on the verge of needing a fan. If so, a die shrink version might not need the fan anymore freeing up a lot of space for a bigger battery.

fastm3driver -

Added! Check out step 21.

Evan Noronha -

I agree with Vince, I'd love to see what's inside that rumble pack. I'm betting on the same thing apple has with their taptic, but with a slightly heavier weight.

Ryan Mitchell - Replica

I really want to know what's inside the hd rumble motor! Sounds more complex than Apple's one...

Mr. Doge - Replica

Modular eMMC? I smell bigger storage variant from Nintendo.. Anytime Soon..

Yosia Sulistian - Replica

Makes me wonder if we could clone the drive onto a larger drive.

vegetaban -

Like the wiiU they know it's kinda a small amount but most people won't care at launch. I bet they even double it by xmas. Or make a more expensive version with the charging dock, 64 memory, and a Zelda or mario included. It will seem like a deal!

fastm3driver -

Guys any info on the antenna in the main body of the console or joycons for the broadcom chips? I cant see much of a BT antenna in the joycons at all from the pics. Unless theyre PCB etched?

Patrick Frost - Replica

The BT antenna in the blue joycon is pcb etched, just on the outside of the joystick. I don’t see it on the red joycon pcb at all, though.

sigoshi -

Can we get an x-ray of the HD rumble motor? Would be interesting to see how it works and whether it's a similar mechanism to the Taptic Engine.

Jason - Replica

Jason, I'm assuming that you are wanting a video of the LRA in action as a static X-ray of the device would look pretty much like what the teardown looks like only with less color. There's an awful lot of metal there and it's just going to look like a dark block.

Actually, if you look at the X-ray of the system with attached controllers, you can easily make out the dark blocks that are the LRAs.

ritslvids -

Would it be theoretically possible to deliver HDMI over USB-C when you are not docked? I'm thinking when you visit a friend and you don't want to bring the dock etc. to play on a big screen.

Marc Schiller - Replica

You can disassemble the dock and bring the internal board along

Cuong Phan -

Let the time work. I think there will be cables to get the HDMI out of the USB C. In the past, for every console there was a lot of non Nintendo accessories from third-party. Why should it be other this time?

TheLOD2010 -

There are many YouTube vids trying out different USB-C 2 HDMI docs, but AFAIK there is noone which works until now.

I tested it myself with the Microsoft Display Dock for its latest Lumias, but it did not work. Hopefully there will be a solution soon as I use my switch docked at two different locations and do not want to pack the dock everytime.

alex.saternus -

Megachips STDP2550 Mobility DisplayPort (MyDP) to HDMI Converter, part of the dock. You need a MyDP to HDMI converter, as the Switch puts out DP and not HDMI.

Xander Zoolander -

Theres no Nintendo word write on the board why this is not a Nintendo console?

Ricardo CB Pereira - Replica

This is a Nintendo Console.

Reid Fleishman -

Does anyone know what the voltage range of the AC adapter is? Is it 100-240 V AC considering the Switch is now a region free console?

Sagat - Replica

It's USB-C on the console and the dock. Any USB-C charger should provide a charge - so if you had an international charger that supports USB-C you should be good. One of the photos shows 15V / 2.6A input on the dock and the same on the tablet itself.

The x-ray they show at the top shows the US-style prongs on the charger and those are sold supporting US voltage only with a built-in USB-C cable (i.e. the cable can't be unplugged and used on a different adapter)

Jimmy -

The charger that came with my US Switch is rated 100-240. Finally I can throw my transformer away.

Tim Hurley -

Region free powersupply's are very common these days. They are cheap. Under 75W they are more cheaper, because in the EU you will need PFC over 75W. Active PFC is expensive, so a non region free supply will be get more benefit to the manufacturer @75W+.

So the charger of the Switch and every Phone are under 75W and can be build simply with an PSU driver chip and only a few more components. For every Voltage.

TheLOD2010 -

Although it is true that 100-240V power supplies are very common, previous Nintendo portables have been something of an outlier in this regard. The charger with my 3DSXL was 120 only, and that was 2012, years after 100-240 was standard elsewhere.

Tim Hurley -

I wonder if the Bluetooth transceiver different in both joy con, as there are connection problems in the left one but not in the right one.

PKMGO Ajimu - Replica

no cartridges teardown

yenmax - Replica

Well it would be pretty boring. It's just a 16 GB storage chip on a fiberglass board with gold-plated contacts.

Ethan Zuo -

Wow, 16GB cartridges? That's pretty awesome! I loved back in the day when Nintendo Power would list cartridge sizes, just because I'm curious about stuff like that...wish I knew how big a given 3DS/DS/Vita game I'm playing was.

wolfpup3 -

Lick the cartridge!

Ethan Zuo - Replica

Please!!!!!!!

Ethan Zuo -

There's definitely 4GB of RAM inside of the Switch...two 2GB chips of LPDDR4.

Brent Murphree - Replica

Max bandwidth of the 3.0 port for the console? Could be very telling when/if Nintendo launches a dock with an upgraded GPU in it that could (possibly) run in SLI with the SoC GPU.

Shankovich - Replica

It would had been better if it was USB type-C 3.1 with Thunderbolt 3.0 for that purpose. Thunderbolt 3.0 is 8x faster than USB 3.0 and to act like a SLI eGPU, 5Gbps isn't enough for a considerable boost, if it was Thunderbolt 3.0 it would be much more future proof. Since it's just USB 3.0, I'm not sure if Nintendo is really thinking about an eGPU, which is a pity. But I hope someone with more knowledge could say what could Nintendo actually achieve with USB 3.0 regarding an extra graphics boost, I wonder if that would be enough for 4K in the future, but it doens't look like it.

theSUBVERSIVE -

Even TB 3 ends in PCIe 3.0 4x. This is to slow fore 4K gaming too. The actual 4K Graphics needs PCIe 3.0 8x as minimum to run with more than 24 fps.

It is no eGPU in existence that can bring a low power system 4K gaming. For the Switch die CPU will be the next limiting part.

TheLOD2010 -

You'll never get any form of functional dual GPU solution through USB - both bandwidth and latency are far too bad for that to be even remotely functional. Not going to happen.

And for those of you talking about Thunderbolt 3: TB3 is an Intel-developed tech. There's zero evidence of it even being considered for implementation outside of X86 systems. Heck, it doesn't even work on AMD-based systems, and those are X86! TB3 on ARM will never happen.

Trond Aasland -

Thunderbolt is an Intel proprietary external PCIe port. Nvidia would need to develop their own proprietary external PCIe solution.

The Switch would also need extra hardware for this, mainly a couple more ICs.

But it could work since USB type C allows an extra set of data lanes to be used at a non-USB port, this is how the Switch outputs a MyDP signal (which the dock has a MyDP-HDMI converter). But currently, the Switch doesn't have supporting hardware for an external/hybrid gpu setup.

Xander Zoolander -

I don't know what its wrong with the guys befor me, but it's definitly USB 3.1 Standart with an USB-C Port.

USB-C is a standart for the port/plug, and can be provided with USB 2.0 to 3.1.

Only USB 3.1 Standart provides the feature of sending video signals over the cable, and the technical Standart USB 3.1 must be shipped with an C-Port/plug.

That make TB3 only 4 times faster, in cost of an proprietary plug and protocol.

Nintendo isn't so uneconomy and so the choice was USB, cause everybody got USB-devices.

Gordon Kracht -

Sounds like a really bad idea to be honest.

Karl Fahrman -

How do the joycons charge from the console, where are the connectors for power transfer?

Tony - Replica

Step 17 picture 3 -> metal contacts with flatflex cable tu the joycon pcb.

TheLOD2010 -

Also step 13, third picture, is the Switch's side of it. The contacts are on the underside of the rail.

Xander Zoolander -

Is digitizer is made of glass or plastic?

Maciej Jerominek - Replica

It is made of plastic.

Evan Noronha -

So the cooling setup goes SoC - thermal paste - copper shim - thermal paste - cold plate - thermal paste -back plate. Granted the cold plate and heatpipe is the main deal, not the backplate.

You could argue that's similar to a CPU integrated heat spreader, but those are more form fitting and sometimes soldered for better heat dissipation. Cooling setup seems like a not great design, especially as DF clocked the vent area at 52 degrees Celsius. From a mobile SoC.

tipoo - Replica

It's actually;

SoC > thermal paste > the shield/cover around the SoC and nearby components > copper shim > thermal paste > pad >mounting bracket and copper pipe, with what looks to be a layer of material between the bracket and heatpipe; also can't tell if the bracket is brazed to the sides of the heat pipe, or if it's under the heat pipe > thermal paste > backplate.

Also keep in mind that the SoC has an internal heat spreader, with is either soldered or pasted to the chip itself. So there's even more interfaces.

The 'pad' on the heat pipe can be seen on Gamer Nexus' video here: https://youtu.be/obz5tE1mdV0?t=10m46s

I also wonder what effects that shield/cover on the SoC is going to have on the DRAM it covers when it heats up.

So there's 10+ parts on top of the silicon including the IHS and it's solder/paste, 9 if the mounting bracket is brazed to the sides of the heat pipe, 10 if the heat pipe is on top of the bracket. Keep in mind that a standard computer only has 4-5 layers on top of the silicon.

Xander Zoolander -

I think seeing the inside of a game cart would be interesting, see if the pinout is different from SD.

tipoo - Replica

Thanks your well-detailed analysis it's possible to complete wikipedia semantic info about objects components and get this:

https://tools.wmflabs.org/reasonator/?&q... (look at "has part" section)

P.D.: more info https://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/WikiObje...

Qupro - Replica

I'm guessing the screen cover is made of plastic and not glass?

guitrasher - Replica

Yes, the screen cover is made from plastic.

Reid Fleishman -

What about the cartridges? Can you open one?

Philippe Morin - Replica

hello ,

is the screen IPS or VA or TN ?

ttt ttt - Replica

Came here to ask this as well. Display is TN or IPS?

Dirty Potter -

Definitely not TN, the viewing angles are great. But, idk if it's VA or IPS.

markjkuebel -

What are the screw dimensions? It would be nice to have a set of spare screws sitting around to replace them if they break/strip whilst opening the Switch in future.

Thomas Plummer - Replica

Your teardown doesn't seem to include flavors of any of the components... Was this an oversight, or are you planning to update this information in the future?

erixtyminutes - Replica

Could you guys nail down the die size for us?

tipoo - Replica

Now let's hope that Nintendo will start replacing all the systems that shipped with dead pixels instead of telling us it's normal.

http://www.techspot.com/news/68401-ninte...

marcpgreen - Replica

Nintendo Switch Dock Set (with a separate Switch Dock, AC adapter and HDMI cable) will cost $89.99. After seeing this video, Nintendo is really screwing over the consumer with a price like that.

marcpgreen - Replica

No they're not, at least not versus what anyone else is charging. These types of adapters are expensive, and it's an active adapter.

Maybe they should be much cheaper, but Microsoft, Apple, etc. charge similar.

wolfpup3 -

Can you give a close up and any part number on the usb port on the switch. I would love to know if that is an off the shelf part that I could get from digikey if need be. It appears to be a midmount design that I am familiar with(Molex I think), but I cant get a clear shot of it from your pictures

Tyler Daughtry - Replica

You can click on any of our photos and delete the .huge from the end of the URL to view it in full/original resolution (which is usually 30+ megapixels). Here's the shot of the USB port on the Switch Console motherboard. Hope it helps you find what you are looking for!

Jeff Suovanen -

Kinda want to try swapping thermal paste with some Arctic Silver or something to see if it improves dissipation at all. Not sure that would aid performance but might be worth a go. Not really sure how I'd measure any impact though... Can't exactly monitor the Chip temp.

Russell Applin - Replica

Or perhaps with Coolaboratory liquid ultra. Check it out! It smokes Arctic Silver in the tests.

Haven Games -

I was wondering if it was possible to take apart the front of the dock and get rid of the rail that could scratch the screen. Seems like it should still be functional after completely removing it.

tophoos - Replica

Then you risk the Switch falling over as its vertical rather than at an angle. So you get a scratched screen AND potentially destroy the USB-C connector, the most difficult part to replace.

alexatkin -

It looks like different Switches use different eMMC chips.

Yours had a Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL.

Gamer Nexus' Switch had a Samsung KLMBG2JENB-B041; seen here https://youtu.be/obz5tE1mdV0?t=9m40s

Samsung's is .2mm thicker at 1mm thick.

I'd like to see someone do a swap with a larger sized chip.

Xander Zoolander - Replica

Update: according to a forum, the devkit switch has a 64GB chip, and people have already done mods to read and write the chip outside of the switch.

The only problem that might arise is the Samsung chip has 2bit MLC (Toshiba doesn't give that spec) on their 32GB chip in the Gamers Nexus' Switch, their largest 2bit MLC chip is 128GB, they offer a 256GB chip but that has a 3bit MLC.

There's hope for storage mods, and there's hopes for a larger storage switch.

Xander Zoolander -

Hi, the stick on Joy-Con are analog or not ? When i tried to use in x360ce it look like a d-pad ?

blaplace - Replica

What model and screen type is the LCD? Why bother pulling it without giving us the part number or identifying marks?

Bitvar - Replica

Can anyone find out what size the player number LEDs are that are on the joycons?

Kyle Ferguson - Replica

As always, a great tear down iFixit! Thanks for keeping the world in the know!

Wagon Fixin - Replica

Are the analogue sticks interchangeable? Would a stick in a spare right joycon work in a left joycon that needs a replacement stick?

Benjamin - Replica

Was the left Joy-Con's 4-button mechanism (circuit board & chassis) the same as the right Joy-Con's? I'm planning on modding a Joy-Con with a replacement (Sega Saturn) D-Pad, so I'd love to see more detail about the D buttons, for example, popping off the rubber buttons on the Joy-Con board and see what's underneath (something you could potentially solder to?). Thanks.

Haven Games - Replica

So how can I tell I will be buying a switch with the fix version of controllers that no longer loses connectivity?

Marlon Alucard - Replica

Any similar speakers for replacement?

Jube - Replica

Really need to find a replacement speaker as well. My right speaker started popping then now no sound comes out unless i put pressure on the membrane. Basically its broken now.

Mptp -

Update: My right speaker started popping and then just stopped working. I sucessfully replaced it with a New 3DS speaker

Mptp -

Is there anywhere I might be able to buy replacement parts for the switch?

Nathan Alan hansen - Replica

suupppppppppp

diego - Replica

suppppppppppppp

diego -

The ZL button of my left joy-con is not responding. Does anybody knows if this is something that can be fix? Or i gonna need a replacement?

marcoscrispim - Replica

What do you use for doing X-Rays ?

Aditya Agarwal - Replica

My right joy-con can be used on console, but it can't be charging........Orz

I tried to change left joy-con's battery to right, but either....

Have any idea can fix it?

pmanyeh - Replica

Is there a place to order replacement parts? My Joystick is jacked up and needs replaced.

Brian Johnson - Replica

+1

I'm just looking for the L + XL buttons ribbon cable. Where can we get replacement parts?

Rockus Ultimus - Replica

So where excactly do you find a mate on the Joy-Con side plastic?

Dexter - Replica

Very Cool! I want to see the graphics card next time!

Ultimate Gamer - Replica

When does the replacement parts comes out?

xFELYNEx xFx - Replica

Hey there, I've managed to have something jam the USB-C port and it's mushed the end of the black pin connector. How feasible is it to bring the system to a local repair shop and have them replace the port for me? Am I out of luck and will have to send it in to Nintendo for repairs?

carlos.chai - Replica

If I tore a ribbon cable in a joy on, any ideas on where to source a replacement?

Clark Sessions - Replica

Was it a ribbon from inside your JoyCon?

zacharywd -

Patrick Frost and John Horne were asking question about the antenna or antennas. SamitSakar wrote an article on the users complaining about the weakness of WIFI. If the wiring is incorrect which Patrick Frost alluded to then how does it get resolved. Is there only one antenna or more. For example iphone has 9 antenna. Slide 11, Researching the Broadcom/Cypress BCM4356 features “Single-stream and dual-stream IEEE 802.11ac solution with data rates up to 433.3 and 866.7 Mb/s” Hence it’s not the chip but the antenna configuration. Perhaps there should be more. Any input? All ears?

hebrwn - Replica

Hello our son has inserted a Micro USB into the USB-C socket. Now the pins are bent and the Device cannot be loaded. Does anyone know where I can get a Nintendo USB 3.1 Type C jack to replace it or an alternative jack?

marijankruljac - Replica

I’m looking for a replacement flatflex cable for the Left Joycon. It’s the cable that goes inside the switch. If anyone can help me locate one that would be awesome.

zacharywd - Replica

Can anyone direct me to a place where I can find replacement MicroSD card boards?

Jake Wharton - Replica

Can someone help me? On step 19 , there’s a flex cable coming out of the joycon where the LED is , mine is malfunctioning it doesn’t work properly , if I open the joycon and stretch the cable the led lights works normally , but when I fold it to close the joycon it stops working, I think the cable somehow is broken inside I dont know…but anyway , is there a place that I can buy only this part so I can replace it? I don’t even know the name of this cable ;(

floyd - Replica

Any clues on the model of the IR camera? I’m interested to know how sensitive it is, the Labo shows some interesting stuff, but it makes me wonder if it’s got a high enough resolution to read QR codes made up of reflective material.

Richard Hodgson - Replica

Does anybody know if I can replace the c-stick sensors? I dont know if im using the correct word here, but mines pretty much messed up, i have two sets of joycons and only right ones broke twice, and I might be able to fix them by exchanging it.

TehVilly - Replica

Hey, this might be a silly question, but should I wear any safety equipment when taking apart the joy-Con? To protect the controller, not myself. Obviously disconnect the battery, but will static electricity do anything? Should I be aware of anything else? Thanks!

Isaac - Replica

Hi I strip one of the screw of bad that even super glue did’t work. To remove the glue is use a drill (1mm) drill bit and hand turn to scrape the glue out. Anyother idea? Will epoxy work?

jonathan ambrose - Replica

Where can I buy all of these parts featured in the video?

Matt Seibert - Replica

How many Connector Pins are on/what kind of connector is on the Swich LCD Flex Cable

Alex Sparks - Replica

What is screwdriver used to take off the screws on the bottom and on the joycon rail on the switch?

Branden D - Replica

I wouldn’t knock it for the tri-wing screws. They use Philips plenty once you get in. they are meant to act as a deterrent to mildly curious children who can get their hands on a small Phillips a little too easily “speaking as a former kiddo that broke a toy or two in this way…”. i’d say good job Nintendo overall and would give a slightly higher repair-ability score. maybe an 8.5.

Alan Warrick - Replica

my switch dont charging i have replace the chip M92T36 but nothing help

the switch dont starting

any Idea?

berlin.suratthani.imbiss - Replica

I was wondering if the microswitch for the R button (not zr) was modular and if it required soldering to fix.

Peter P - Replica

The upper shell (where the digitizer mounts) looks as if it can come off with about 8 more or so screws? I'm looking to replace this part due to cracking as well as replacing the digitizer and a few internal parts as well. Any tips?

kragithzedrok - Replica

Beefy Battery? Yeah right

Jackson Peter Conway - Replica

Could you provide instructions on how to open up the analog stick module without breaking it? Joystick drifting seems to be a recurrent problem with joycons and since they’re still pretty expensive, it would be a good plus to be able to repair or at least clean them at home.

Xnerdz - Replica

Lacks sizes for the screws and generally leaves details out.

Zachary Hudson - Replica

Hi Zachary, be sure you check the header at the top of this teardown! “This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nintendo Switch, use our service manual.” We use teardowns as an entertaining, educational look inside a device not a step-by-step guide! Thanks for stopping by!

Sam Goldheart -

If the joycons started to always move forward and not let you jump in games what would need tobe fixed? just the buttons or like the whole board and for the stick wouldnt it just be the stick?

Miles Pridgeon - Replica

Hey Miles! That sounds an awful lot like the dreaded Joy-Con drift that’s been plaguing switch owners lately. The good news is, if you head over to http://support.nintendo.com, they’ll probably be able to get them fixed up for free! If you don’t want to ship them out to Nintendo, we can sell you the joystick by itself. I’m working on the replacement guide right now, it should be ready next week. Swapping out the joystick yourself only takes about half an hour, and should fix the issues you’re having.

Taylor Dixon -

Howdy, just wanted to tell people be very very careful when removing the joycon battery clip. Those things are super cheap and flimsy. I broke one, even being gentle. After some different approaches and a digital microscope I still haven’t figured out a safe reliable way to repair one. If I ever do I’ll post it.

RebTech - Replica

While switching out the left joy-con it was dropped the zif connector lifted from the motherboard completely intact still attached to the ribbon cable how do I reattach the connector to the motherboard?

Zeshi - Replica

Thanks a lot for this guide !

maxim.gilot - Replica

Danke für dieses kleine, aber ausführliche Tutorial

Robin Gründing - Replica

Aggiungi Commento

Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 181

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 1,099

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 5,474

Tutti i Tempi: 928,141