Introduzione
Apple annuncia un trio di nuovi laptop e, ragazzi, il nostro tavolo degli smontaggi è molto affollato. Abbiamo iniziato con l'entry level, il MacBook Pro "Escape Edition," e oggi siamo arrivati al top della gamma. Ha il doppio di ventole, oltre un milione di pixel in più e la nuova Touch Bar che cerca di sostituire i nostri fidati tasti funzione. il che significa una cosa sola: è ora di smontare il nuovo MacBook Pro da 15" con Touch Bar.
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Cosa ti serve
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Il MacBook Pro da 15" integra un milione di pixel in più dei modelli a 13 pollici che abbiamo già smontato. Ecco un'anteprima della tecnologia che oggi ci aspettiamo di trovare all'interno:
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Display IPS Retina da 15,4" con retroilluminazione a LED e risoluzione 2880 × 1800 (220 dpi), gamut colore P3
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Processore quad-core Intel Core i7 Skylake da 2,6 GHz (fino a 3,5 GHz con Turbo Boost) con grafica integrata Radeon Pro 450 con 2GB di memoria GDDR5
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16 GB di memoria integrata LPDDR3 da 2133 MHz
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SSD con interfaccia PCIe da 256 GB (configurabile con SSD da 512 GB, 1 TB o 2 TB)
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Quattro porte Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) che supportano la ricarica, DisplayPort, Thunderbolt, USB 3.1 Gen 2
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Touch Bar con sensore Touch ID integrato
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Trackpad Force Touch
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Impiliamoli insieme. Ecco il MacBook Pro da 13" al di sopra della principale attrazione di oggi, il MacBook Pro da 15". A parte la differenza di dimensioni, sembrano praticamente identici. Non vediamo l'ora di vedere quanto siano simili (oppure no) all'interno.
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Il MacBook Pro da 15" è identificato come modello A1707, perfettamente inserito tra gli A1706 e A1708 dei nostri precedenti due smontaggi.
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Proprio come la precedente linea MacBook Pro, ci sono delle lunghe feritoie per aspirare l'aria sotto i lati destro e sinistro. Se questo computer è fatto come il suo fratello più piccolo, questi sfiati fungono anche da condotti per gli altoparlanti.
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Houston, siamo decollati! Questo smontaggio ha raggiunto la separazione del primo stadio.
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A una prima ispezione, l'MBP da 15" sembra... una versione ingrandita del modello da 13". Notiamo una differenza nella disposizione della batteria, ma in generale sembra di guardare dei gemelli.
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Guarda chi incontriamo di nuovo! Il connettore che non porta da nessuna parte.
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Noi preferiremmo vedere comunque un SSD rimovibile/aggiornabile, particolarmente in una macchina destinati ai professionisti; in questo modo, però, se la tua scheda logica andasse in malora, ci sarebbe almeno una possibilità di recuperare i tuoi dati con l'aiuto di Apple. È comunque meglio farli, questi backup.
The "connector to nowhere" is probably the PCIe lanes for the SSD. The cover has a PCB that joins the lanes.
In theory you should be able to use a adapter and plug it into a standard x4 PCIe slot (or maybe one that converts it to Thunderbolt or USB3?).
Official Apple tool : CDM Tool Kit for transferring data over usb cable to laptop, and flexcable to motherboard
Here’s the tool! https://9to5mac.com/2016/11/24/apple-spe...
Where is the connector for the display? Mine is turning off when i fully open the screen and i need to reseat it to make sure that isnt the issue before i order one.
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La rimozione del trackpad richiede lo stesso, modesto sforzo necessario per effettuare la stessa operazione con gli altri due MBP modello 2016: ci basta svitare 13 viti T5 per fare nostro il trackpad.
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E questo trackpad è un mostro, in grado di confrontarsi con un iPad mini 2.
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Non siamo sorpresi nel trovare in questo trackpad gli stessi IC rinvenuti in entrambi gli MBP da 13". Però, data la dimensione superiore, Apple ha dovuto aggiungere un secondo controller touch per coprire la superficie extra:
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MCU ARM Cortex-M3 STMicroelectronics STM32F103VB
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x2 controller touch Broadcom BCM5976C1KUFBG
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ADC Delta-Sigma a 6 canali e 24 bit Maxim Integrated MAX11291ENX
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Driver LED bianco Monolithic Power Systems MP24830
Interesting that we have two touch controllers here, while the slightly larger Magic Trackpad 2 only has one of the same kind.
How To: Replace a Trackpad on a 2016 2017 2018 Touch Bar Retina MacBook Pro! A1707
it seems two Broadcom ic to handle left side and right side of track pad touch (its exactly like two 6plus side by side)
generate 2 pair of touch XY, sending to STM uC.
STM append that two and make one XY and also controll taptic ?
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Identificazione IC del touchpad, continua:
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Accelerometro Bosch Sensortec BMA282
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Sensore di temperatura locale/remoto Texas Instruments TMP421
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Memoria flash NOR seriale da 2 Mb Macronix MX25L2006EZUI-12G
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Comparatore Maxim integrato MAX9028
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Continuiamo l'opera tirando via questa scheda logica. È un po' più larga nel centro, ma condivide la stessa simmetria baffuta dei parenti più piccoli.
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La rimozione del dissipatore di calore nuovo-e-migliorato (anche questa volta avvitato sul retro della scheda logica), fa scoprire la CPU e la GPU.
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E' ora di dare un'occhiata a questo
polipoanimale e vedere che cosa lo rende il capobranco. -
Processore quad-core Intel Core i7-6700HQ Skylake da 2,6 GHz (fino a 3,5 con Turbo Boost)
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4 GB (quattro chip per 16 GB totali) di memoria LPDDR3 Micron MT52L1G32D4PG-093
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GPU AMD Radeon Pro 450
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512 MB (quattro chip per 2 GB totali) di memoria GDDR5 Elpida (Micron) EDW4032BABG-70-F
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Controller Thunderbolt 3 Intel JHL6540 (uno per ogni serie di porte USB-C)
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Intel SR2NH (probabilmente un platform controller hub)
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Texas Instruments CD3215C00 69AV2TW (definito chip T1 di Apple nella presentazione)
Each side has two USB-C ports so the need to have two USB-C (Thunderbolt-3) controllers makes sense. What is odd is the fact one set of ports (side) is slower than the other.
Huh? I thought only the touch bar 13" model had slower ports.
One of the controllers on the 13-inch model with four Thunderbolt 3 ports only has a PCIe 3.0 x2 connection to the PCH. The ports operate at full speed (40 Gbit/s), can transport two DP 1.2 links, provide 10 GbE Thunderbolt networking, and support native Thunderbolt, DP, and USB 3.1 Gen 2 (10 Gb/s) signaling. There are no differences in their capabilities aside from the reduced PCIe bandwidth, which ends up being equivalent to that of Thunderbolt 2. Skylake-U chips lack PEG lanes for discrete GPUs, and the PCH only has connections for up to 12 PCIe 3.0 lanes. 4 went to the SSD, 1 to the Wi-Fi controller, 4 to the left-hand Thunderbolt 3 controller, 2 to the right-hand Thunderbolt 3 controller and the last one got orphaned. The link between the CPU and PCH in those systems is only equivalent to PCI 3.0 x4 though, so it could be saturated by the SSD alone.
hi, i would like to get more information regarding fan location and fan labels on 2017 mac book pro 15/
its a little confusing of when to call left side fan a left side fan or a right side fan. using Macs fan control app to adjust max CPU and GPU speeds for safer use of my mac book…
so, when left side fan is mention in macs fan control app or in general what fan its refers to? as i understand Left side fan is the CPU fan.
the issue that we need to flip the mac book to access the fans and its its not quite clear when left is left, flipped or before its flipped.
also, i leak of knowledge can be my main issue LOL
thanks in advance
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Ecco un primo piano di questo chip T1 (o forse TI?).
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Texas Instruments CD3215C00
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Non si può identificare con certezza, ma è nello stesso posto dove Apple afferma che si trovi il suo chip T1 dedicato alla Touch Bar.
so uh… why did you guys photoshop that last picture?
It’s just a composite of the actual board for direct comparison to the graphic, to help point out that Apple seems to have misidentified their own chip during the presentation. Not something most people would ever catch, and not really important, but kind of amusing.
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Altri chip in lizza per una posizione su questa faccia della scheda:
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512 MB di DRAM LPDDR3 Samsung K4E4E324EE-PGCF, probabilmente con un controller SSD specifico realizzato da Apple disposto in uno strato sottostante
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Memorizzazione flash Samsung K9PHGY8S7E-1CK0 (due chip da 64 GB per un totale di 128 GB su questo lato)
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Microcontroller della famiglia H8S/2113 Renesas R4F2113XLG
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Controller gestione sistema Texas Instruments TM4EA23I ?
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Regolatore di potenza Texas Instruments SN650839
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Controller NFC NXP Semiconductor PN66V
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Doppio telecomando/sensore temperatura locale Texas Instruments TMP442
It's a Samsung Polaris controller underneath the PoP DRAM, same as used in the Samsung SM961 and 960 Pro. The new 15-inch MBPs all appear to come with what is essentially a Samsung 960 Pro on board.
It should not be SAMSUNG Polaris SSD controller. It should be Apple proprietary SSD controller.
JJ Wu -
Under the system report it implies an Apple SSD controller. Apple owns their own SSD chip house so it would make sense for Apple to use their own SSD controller unless the Samsung controller was that much better. Remember Apple contracts these chips (custom) so they can get what they want.
For clarification PoP is Package on Package. Here’s a good write up explaining it Memory Packaging Challenges for the new Era
Dan -
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Dando un'occhiata all'altra faccia della scheda, scopriamo:
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Memorizzazione flash Samsung K9PHGY8S7E-1CK0 (altri due chip da 64 GB che fanno 128 GB su questo lato e 256 GB in totale).
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Regolatore di potenza USB type-C Texas Instruments CD3215C00
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Memoria seriale flash da 64 Mb WinBond SpiFlash W25Q64FVIQ
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Controller buck sincrono Texas Instruments TPS51980A
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Controller CPU PWM Renesas (ex Intersil) ISL95828HRTZ
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Controller AMD CPU PWM Intersil ISL6277A
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Apple APL1023 343S00137 (lo stesso chip si è fatto trovare nel nostro smontaggio del MBP Touch Bar da 13" e molto probabilmente è il controller T1 che gestisce la Touch Bar)
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La festa degli IC continua:
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Modulo Wi-Fi Murata/Apple 339S00056 (molto simile a questo chip Murata)
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Gestore alimentazione Apple 338S00193-A1 16348HIP
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Telecomando/sensore temperatura esterna Texas Instruments TMP513A
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Gestore alimentazione Samsung S2FPS04X01 SSD
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Interruttore di carico da 6 A Texas Instruments TPS22969
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Caricatore batteria Renesas (ex Intersil) ISL9239
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Convertitore buck Maxim Integrated MAX77596 da 300 mA
Any idea if the 339S00056 wireless card has 3x3 MIMO? The 13" without touchbar they went with a 2x2 chip which means slower max wifi throughput. Does this 15" system stick with three antennas?
it has 3 antenna connectors to the motherboard
I have same questions, I can't find anything on this chip. Is it 3x3 MUMIMO? Mine hasn't arrived in mail yet to check.
Link to “this Murata Chip” is broken. FYI
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Identificazione IC, continua parte 1:
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Coded audio Cirrus Logic (CS42Lxx) e amplificatore audio (probabilmente)
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Amplificatore audio Maxim Integrated MAXxxxx? (probabilmente)
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Multiplexer DisplayPort/PCI Express NXP Semiconductor CBTL06142E (probabilmente)
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Stadio di potenza Vishay SIC635
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Stadio di potenza Vishay SIC535
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Blocco potenza Diodes Incorporated IRF3575 da 60 A
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Altri stadi di potenza/MOSFETs principalmente di Texas Instruments
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Identificazione IC, continua parte 2:
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Memoria flash serial NOR da 64 Mb Winbond W25Q64FV
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Memoria seriale EEPROM da 64 Kb STMicroelectronics M24C64-F
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Memoria flash serial NOR da 32 Mb Macronix MX25U3235F
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Memoria flash serial NOR da 2 Mb Macronix MX25L2006EZUI-12G
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Memoria flash serial NOR da 8 Mb Winbond W25Q80DVUXIE
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Memoria seriale EEPROM da 16 Kb ON Semiconductor CAT93C86BHU4x-GT3
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Memoria seriale EEPROM ON Semiconductor
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Identificazione IC, continua parte 3:
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Amplificatore di senso della corrente Texas Instruments INA213
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Amplificatore di senso della corrente Texas Instruments INA214
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Convertitore step-down da 3 A Texas Instruments TPS62130B
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Interruttore di carico da 6 A Texas Instruments TPS22966
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Interruttore di carico da 6 A Texas Instruments TPS22965
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Riferimento di tensione Texas Instruments REF3330
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Filtro comune con protezione ESD ON Semiconductor EMI8032MUTAG
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Ansiosi di vedere la terza coniugazione della rinnovata architettura termica di Apple, liberiamo le ventole dalle quattro viti T3 che le fissano al case posteriore.
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E vengono fuori senza opporre alcuna resistenza. Qui la colla non c'è!
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Questa ventola presenta palette completamente diverse da quelle che abbiamo incontrato in precedenza.
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Si vedono quelli che sembrano essere controller della ventola Texas Instruments sul cavo a nastro.
Besides larger than the 13" model, they also happen to be two different sizes, as we can see. Any reason for that?
Maybe so that they hum at different frequencies, making them less unpleasant to hear.
In the Second Photo, in Step 11, what are all the parts / mechanisms there in the center area in-line with the vents? I know one of them is a connector, but not sure about the rest.
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Dopo aver molto lottato per liberare la batteria tenacemente incollata del MacBook Pro da 13" con Touch Bar, abbiamo deciso di lasciare la batteria ben ancorata al suo posto.
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Questo MacBook Pro da 15" ha una griglia altoparlante simile a quella della sua più piccola controparte da 13". La maggior parte della griglia non ha fori passanti, facendo quindi porre la domanda: perché questo notebook ha le cavità come una pallina da golf, Apple?
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Un sondaggio dice: pesa meno e quindi va più veloce se ci metti le ruote.
"... Most of the grille doesn't include full through-holes, prompting us to question why the dimples, Apple? ..."
Try to inform you what the BASS REFLEX is ... and you'll find the answer.
The air mover "behind" the membranes for the creation of the sound is as important as the moving air "before" to the membranes.
A simple picture may be enough to understand what "might be superfluous" that the grid holes are in front of the speaker membranes:
Interesting theory, but I don't think it applies here. Look at the middle picture in the teardown. The speaker assembly is glued directly to the dimpled metal part (the dimples are on the other side you can't see). So it's highly unlikely that those dimples are there to improve the vibration characteristics. The design seems to intentionally prevent bass reflex. To match the other pictures you provided, this would be a speaker attached to a solid block with no airflow around the speaker. Not saying that this is a bad design; just that the physics of an open speaker enclosure don't seem to apply.
I do not have a MBP 2016, so I can not dismount, but the image I see a grid behind the speaker placement ... but mostly I read reviews that give the acoustics of these models as "better" and not " worst "of the past and those directly comparable as encumbrances.
(I apologize for English Google ...)
more surface area on the outside of the aluminum hull means more heat dissipation. might not make the most sense as a new feature but since it was already there why change it?
The speaker grilles are completely cosmetic as a long design staple of the PowerBook/MacBook Pro design. First seen on the 2001 PowerBook G4 Titanium, the grilles were smaller as about the actual size of the speakers beneath them. But the aluminum redesign that came out a few years later pretty much cemented the current look today of wholly flanking the left and right sides of the keyboard. Back then, though, the case design had minimal vent holes on the bottom, so the grilles pulled double-duty as extra ventilation intake. Even back then, of course the speakers were never big enough to be the ACTUAL grilles themselves (see the subtle darker circles visible in the grilles in the linked picture. Also the ambient light sensor in the left grille.) And this continued on through the unibody design phase even after large vent intakes were added in the Retina-onward models. By that point it was a recognizable part of the MBP’s design language.
I need to replace my left speaker, how hard it is to remove? Did you apply heat? Apple quoted me and obscene price I found two salvaged speakers and two OEM ones for a tenth of the price
@m0bi0us0ne They’re very well glued in place. Heat and a fair bit of force will do it, especially if you’re not concerned about trying to save the speaker. Soaking it with some isopropyl alcohol for a while might also work (just be mindful that it will leak through the other side due to the speaker holes in the chassis).
Hi Emilio,
I read your comments on your left speaker, and I also have to replace mine. The sound coming from it is very low and muffled. I opened System Preferences>Sound>Output and turned settings full left and full right and there is a big diference between both. My left speaker is broken.
Did you fix your speaker? How as it to fix? Where did you buy it?
I think my problem was caused by me, I had 3 keys not functioning correctly, (5, 6 and b). I saw an Apple Support article about how to clean the keyboard with compressed air. I followed it, but instead of compressed air I used a Contact Clean Spray. I held my MacBook in a 75º angle and applied it the excess liquid that formed came out to the left side. At the time I didn't thought on the speaker. My keys came back and are working fine, but my left speaker is muffled.
Maybe the liquid got to the speaker and soaked the rubber membrane around the speak and ruined it.
Hope you can help me.
Have a good day.
Zillo -
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Dopo avere anche questa volta separato accidentalmente il digitizer dal pannello OLED, rivolgiamo la nostra attenzione al display a LED.
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A questo party di smantellamento dell'OLED hanno partecipato due tecnici di smontaggio, un plettro di apertura, un coltello X-Acto, alcol isopropilico, una pistola termica e un iOpener. Niente da fare, l'adesivo Apple era ancora troppo forte per il nostro agguerrito team di scollamento.
Solvents next time?
You know... If you take a Touch Bar from one Macbook Pro and put it on another Macbook Pro, it probably shouldn't work if Apple did its job correctly. It's basically a Trusted Platform Module. I think that's why it is called a T1 chip. Does the Macbook Pro even boot without the Touch Bar?
What are the exact dimensions of the touch bar screen part? (width x height)
FYI:
Removing the TouchID button (for palmrest swaps following liquid exposure, presumably) is a pain, and if you damage it at all you’ll apparently need to get a new logic board entirely since the two are “married” as I’ve been led to understand. BE CAREFUL!
The button itself is mounted on a black metal shim-style frame/hinge that provides the button's pop-up action. The hinge's open edge is lateral (farther away from the center) and its connected edge is medial (towards the center of the laptop).
When removing and reattaching the button, you'll see that there are six screws to deal with - four silver and two black. The silver ones attach the button itself to the shim, and the black ones mount the shim to the frame. I found that the lateral black screw needs to be a little loose to give the button room to press in.
Also, spend a good deal of time being sure that your button alignment is proper - it’s really easy to have it shift or rotate slightly from its proper location. Don’t want to have to repeat your work!
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Lo schema generale alla fine della battaglia!
Not sure if anyone will read this comment, but just in case it helps someone out with this model (or other macbooks with the new butterfly keys).
These keyboards are notorious for experiencing issues with the keys sticking down or becoming irregularly responsive. People usually presume correctly that they’ve gotten some dust under the keys.
I believe there is an alternative explanation as well: the key caps are so thin that over time they actually warp, causing the outer edges of the keys to scrape the sides of the key wells leading to poor responsiveness.
If you’ve already blown the dust out and cleaned underneath the key with isopropyl alcohol after removing the cap, try to gently flatten the key and its edges back to right angles before re-installing it in the mac. I had to ‘clean’ under my “I” key about 5 times before I noticed that the key HAD actually warped. A few very gentle bends of the key with my fingers, and no more double-typing!!
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- È facile accedere al trackpad e la sostituzione è molto semplice.
- Le viti di tipo proprietario pentalobe rendono inutilmente difficili le operazioni di manutenzione e riparazione.
- L'intero gruppo batteria è tenacemente incollato al case; questo complica la sostituzione.
- Il processore, la RAM e anche la memoria flash sono saldati alla scheda logica.
- Il Touch Bar aggiunge un secondo schermo che si può danneggiare ed è anche questo difficile da sostituire.
- Il sensore Touch ID funziona anche da pulsante di accensione ed è accoppiato con il chip T1 sulla scheda logica. La riparazione di un interruttore guasto può richiedere l'aiuto diretto di Apple oppure una nuova scheda logica.
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112 Commenti
Why is it NOT a "pro" laptop?
Eric -
U are a joke lol
A horse walks into a bar, and the bartender asks, "Why the long face?"
Now THAT is a joke.
Permanently soldered on RAM, SSD drive, limited to 16 GB RAM, lacks ports that are in still in common use, gimmicky touch bar, no function keys, crappy keyboard, everything glued together, nothing repairable, and they call this a professional laptop! Nope, just an overpriced, disposable, anorexic, consumer laptop that's a bit faster than the rest of their laptop line. This is not what us professionals want. I'm sticking with my 17" MacBook Pro.
askudra -
because its built like a disposable device such as a phone. Soldering the SSD is going to far. M.2 NVME could have been used, and it would have been much cheaper on the bill of materials.
Solid State devices like DRAM and FLASH memory are all very reliable, soldering them to the circuit-board to save space by eliminating a connector makes perfect sense. As for the RAM limit, I'm a pro Software Developer and can work fine with only an 8GB Dual-Core MacBook Pro. I have to wait a bit longer for full builds, but that's not the biggest part of my job. And finally, how many Windows PC laptops are there with FOUR Thunderbolt 3 ports? This laptop is more Pro than any other.
Eric -
The very things that you object to are exactly what will make this machine phenomenally reliable.
@Eric: FWIW, my work early-2013 MBPro Retina a few months ago suddenly stopped booting reliably or even getting to the Apple logo. It probably had the problem listed at https://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro.... Fortunately, the helpdesk at my work had an identical vintage machine in storage, so we just swapped SSDs, and I was good to go in under 20 minutes.
Try that if the SSD is soldered to the mobo.
cwerdna -
As a pro of 40 years+ standing, I consider 4x Thunderbolt 3 to be ideal.
Where else can I get that?
@Cwerdna
Most likely it was the connector that was faulty. In which case you wouldn't have needed to.
@Eric: Also, don't care about 3 Thunderbolt 3 ports. They're of 0 use to me w/o adapters. I work on iOS software. I use the Thunderbolt 2 ports and Magsafe on my work laptop each day, since I have 2 Thunderbolt displays. I plug in USB iOS devices sometimes directly into the laptop. I also at least daily plug in a USB 3.0 external hard drive for Time Machine backups. We sometimes project at meetings via Thunderbolt 2 or HDMI. Now I need to be a "pro" by needing a wad of adapters.
With one of these new laptops, my displays can't power my laptop and the extra Magsafe brick will become useless. I'll need to spring for a $79 brick + $19 USB-C cable. And, if I don't scavenge a power cord from a retired machine (so the brick doesn't block a bunch of outlets), it's another $19 for a cord: https://9to5mac.com/2016/11/10/opinion-m....
cwerdna -
Ummm, 4 USB-C ports that happen to carry Thunderbolt isn't "pro"... You will need adapters to use them with current Thunderbolt gear anyway in which case you can use adapters on the older MacBook Pro's to add more ports anyway... What's the difference? At least with the older MacBook Pro you don't NEED adapters to use HDMI, USB, SD Card reader or Thunderbolt.
djlobb01 -
Which other laptops have Thunderbolt 3? A complete list would be too long: Asus, Acer, Dell, HP, Lenovo, Razer, etc. But here's a list of TB3 laptops ranging from 13' ultra books to 17' professional machines.
http://www.ultrabookreview.com/10579-lap...
As you can see, most of them have REMOVABLE SSDs. Many have CPUs equivalent to the new MacBook Pro, and with a similar size/weight but at much lower prices. There are even quite a few that have 32GB RAM available.
(And with a removable SSD, it's easy to upgrade a laptop to a HD as fast as the new MBP next year.)
I've been a long time Apple enthusiast, but the new MBP is underwhelming and disappointing.
for all those interested, the SSD isn't actually soldered. It's just a special form factor; not M.2 or anything common. All modern laptops have soldered processors, it is unfair to ding Apple for doing this when Dell, Lenovo, MSI, ASUS, Acer, Razer, HP, and other companies all do it too. People can easily get a dongle for the USB C, c'mon guys, you're spending ~$4,000 like me, you can afford a single adapter from amazon. The battery life is already significantly better than almost all windows laptops, the only exclusion may the Lenovo ThinkPads. Very few companies offer displays as bright/colorful as Apple.
Lastly, M.2/NVMe would mean sacrificing the speed that these MacBooks ships with today. Why would you rather have a slower SSD with a common form factor when you can have a super fast SSD with a specialized form? They're SSDs anyway, it's highly unlikely for them to fail unless you're writing to the disk and reading from it 24/7/365.
Norton -
@norton12 You must be thinking of a different model. This is not an SSD with a custom form factor, it's just a handful of ICs soldered directly to the main board—both sides of it, in fact.
Askudra, I do whole-heartedly agree with you and every pro knows the MBP is not really a “Pro” device; its only a buzzword for marketing. Though before I continue, just take thought for a second that Apple® known as innovators have always created designs that are far more advanced then the technology available creating a conflict, and the other side is that what technology is available would be way to expensive for consumers if used which partly explains why there is always a delay on new tech from Apple®
As for the MBP lacking the needs of a Pro, I agree the loss of hardware personalization is a tragedy. The new era of Apple has lead cosmetic design to come before device functionality, a poorly designed thermal system that allow temperatures to reach 212F / 100C and cause potential hardware damage, an inefficient firmware and very soon the loss of Intel Chips…
We all suffer from the conflicts of Apple’s inability to create a MBP that meets the everyday needs of a Professional. Not sure that will ever change.
Does this model have a removable touch id (power button) as the 13" model did?
Yes it does.
No it doesn't.
Though that depends on what you mean by: "removable". Is it theoretically removable, meaning that there is a small chance that Apple can replace it, instead of giving you a new MacBook? Possibly.
Can you do it yourself or in a repair shop? Not a chance in !&&* with all that glue. At least not in one piece. And you won't be able to get parts.
We didn't show it in the teardown, but to reiterate: the Touch ID / power button is perfectly removable. Unlike the Touch Bar it's secured with screws, not glue. It's still presumably paired to the logic board at the factory for security reasons, so you can't replace it yourself without disabling Touch ID—but if the question is simply "Can you remove it?" the answer is yes.
I wonder what would the 2T SSD consist of.
Perhaps an eDRAM with integrated Graphics would make the MacBook Pro "GDDR-free", therefore it's possible to put more RAM chip on it.
there is space for ram on the back side. don't need to remove the discrete graphic.
quoting apple, the lack of 32gb option at this time is due to battery life. presumably the next gen 15" will have more efficient processor and ram, and larger battery, thereby allowing the additional ram spaces to be used.
Kim Zhou -
The 16 GB limit is due to using LPDDR3 as opposed to DDR4. The Skylake memory controller doesn't support LPDDR4, and I don't believe Kaby Lake will either, so it will be a while before we see a MacBook Pro with more than 16 GB of RAM.
Bleah........
These Comments rapidly fade out after the first few Month on the Market, because it will be copied by all the Competitors and become no longer relevant. Pro-User will buy 1TB or 2GB, all Consumers buy 256GB or maybe 512GB, if Money they realize 200 Bucks are cheap for such fast Storage.
Icke -
Icke:
What rubbish! There are already companies that are making laptops as thin as the MacBook Pro that use NVME, heck even the non-TouchBar 13" 2016 MBP uses a proprietary port, but atleast it's upgradable... People have their laptops for quite a while generally, not being able to upgrade storage down the line is ridiculous and only applies to small tablet PC's like the Surface "Pro", so in essence, Apple is copying Microsoft, as they have soldered storage on both their Surface Pro and Surface Book...
djlobb01 -
Soldered on SSD sucks, but apple have been doing it for a while now, which was why I took so long to update to a new laptop as I wass *hoping* apple would come back too their senses on this one. Alas.
What camera does iFixit use for the photos?
What about the microphone array (3 mikes)? In the 13" teardown you showed the third mike being out of place (unused). In the 15" this mike appears to be underneath the grille. So there must be three (3) real holes in that grille upper left hand side. I would appreciate if you could show that detail, because it is the first ever Macbook with a 3-mike array. Cool! And based on the distance among each other, it will work for 6-8 kHz signals (hence HQ speech). So expect clear FaceTime and better Siri performance.
If you are iSheep then this is the best way to throw your money if you are a Pro then go to the Windows/Linux laptops from brands like ASUS, MSI or Gigabyte and if you want maximum flexibility go with Clevo brands like Sager, XMG, Eurocom and many other brands.
ASUS, MSI, and Gigabyte all have very "non-pro" customer support. You can walk into any Apple Store with your MacBook and get in-person customer support.
Eric -
A MacBook Pro will last twice a long as any of them and still have significant residual value.
henry3dogg: "A MacBook Pro will last twice a long as any of them."
You state that like it's 100% fact, not very clever... I beg to differ, as I am sure iFixit will attest. I had to repair a 2013 MBP which had a faulty SSD drive (not port, but drive itself). If that happens on the new MBP well than you can bet that you'll need a new logic board, If that happens on a Clevo, MSI or ASUS, it's as simple as swapping the part, everything down to the graphics card and RAM is swappable/repairable too. Don't talk rubbish unless you know what you are talking about. Very rarely has there been problems with the port/connector itself.
Eric: What's the point of great customer service if the computer has no serviceable parts apart from the trackpad?
Also I would say MSI and some Clevo brands like Sager and Metabox, are very good and responsive with customer support. There isn't really the walk-into-the-store type support but they respond quickly and their shipping is excellent.
djlobb01 -
iSheep. How very clever and mature!
And that's pretty poor advice too. For a MBP user a good replacement would be a workstations-class machine like Dell Precision, Lenovo P-series or HP Z book. (Esp. The latter.)
They all come with a similar battery life and weight/thickness as the 15' MBP, and some of them can have 32GB RAM. (Apparently not a great engineering challenge after all.)
I recommend people take a look. Apple will keep ignoring the Mac until they see sales suffer.
To replace keyboard we have to first take the touch bar out or
without taking the touchbar we can replace keyboard.pls help I
want to know its technical side.i need help from ifixit engineers engineers pls help soon as possible
Touchbar and keyboard are most likely to be removed separate. So no worries.
Pls help ifixit engineer
You didn't show keyboard replacement guide
Pls show the keyboard replacement guide for 15"macbook pro touchbar
What style keyboard keys are on the 15 inch macbook pro with touchbar... i need to get english/russian keycaps
Curious if anyone is having heat issues with the new touch bar? I actually returned mine, it was getting too hot to scroll. Maybe I had a defective unit.
And askudra, really? Laptops are about balance and I suspect you know that but are just trolling for reaction.
Was the fan running?
There is always a tradeoff between reliability and upgradability in a laptop. I service and repair Macs and PCs for a living. RAM slots are the most common point of failure in a portable device. I agree that the un-upgradable SSD is an issue, but I have rarely seen users, even "Pro" users, upgrade storage after initial purchase. If you need to upgrade storage or RAM after you purchase a laptop, you obviously didn't buy the right machine to start with.
Two points: 1: If you want upgradable storage in a Mac laptop, you can't get a TouchBar. You have to get the Function-Key model or an older generation.
2: If you keep your laptop for a long time, replacing/upgrading the storage can become important. Especially if you can't afford to shell out for the biggest SSD at the time you bought the computer.
shamino -
Nonsense. Storage gets faster and more compact with time. It's nice to replace the original SSD with a 2019 SSD in three years.
It's also one of the reasons why MacBooks have so high resale value. Well used to have. This one won't, with the lack of RAM/SSD upgrades.
TCO is important for pro's.
Your argument that Apple has to solder everything down to make the machine reliable makes no sense. RAM and SSD rarely fail due to a faulty or loose connections. The most common point of failures on a laptop are the keyboard, the hinges, cracked screens from drops, SSDs that fail internally, HDs that are dropped or fail internally, and broken power connectors and cords. Every single one of those components would be extremely difficult to replace on the MBP. Lenovo manages to make very reliable Thinkpads that pass MILSPEC testing (drops, vibration, etc.) which have replaceable keyboards, RAM, SSD, wifi, etc. My Thinkpad T450s weighs 3.26 lbs with a 14" screen and everything is replaceable--I know because I upgraded the LCD and the RAM with *standard* parts. Trying to upgrade the 2016 15" MBP is basically impossible and trying to fix it is extremely difficult and expensive. I would rather have a laptop which costs half the price and is fixable than Apple's planned obsolescence.
SSDs don't last forever. They're limited by the number of write cycles. Once an SSD has these depleted it's dead, and so is any machine with the SSD soldered in place. The new MacBook Pro is a throw-away piece of garbage.
@iFixit
Not sure if someone else covered this yet, but...
I think that port with the cover (Step 3) is the PCIe rails for the SSD. The PCIe rails traces are split and the little cover has a PCB in it that joins the traces.
If you get a chance test this by removing the cover, boot the machine off off a USB stick and see if the SSD is still detected.
Hopefully someone in the future will whip up a adapter with a long cable (think GPU extension cables) that goes into a PCIe x4 slot.
The lack of repair options and the fact all major parts are soldered in place will start to cause problems and we will increasingly have to consider machines like this as 'disposable'. So much for Apple's green credentials and I certainly don't have the kind of wallet to constantly replace kit with every new upgrade. This has become clear to me today with getting a new Macbook Pro for work only to discover a non-working touchbar after opening the box! So much for getting on with some work and putting the new machine through it's paces. And thanks Apple for your sympathy and support - just refunding the purchase and advising to re-order and take my changes again was a bit unexpected. Sad to say Apple has lost me as a customer and when the gaffer tape keeping my old 2009 Pro together stops working it will be a cheaper PC with a full keyboard.
I'm not sure how much people need to worry about repairability of soldered and glued components, Just because we can't repair it on our living room floor doesn't mean it's not repairable. I've sent MBPs in to be repaired and gotten excellent service with a reasonable price. I am not interested in upgrades- for this price I am buying a machine that will last me a minimum of 4 years in terms of specs and reliability. I think a vast minority of people have failures with soldered on components, they are generally faster and more reliable.
I've never bought apple care before but I did this time since it is a major revision. A three year warranty on factory defects is worth $350, they will certainly attempt repair on much more than I ever would.
I might have the best of intentions but a spudger will generally not get me there: I'm all for DIY but anyone seriously griping about an inability to refurbish a computer with a *!&*^#% screwdriver can go get themselves a Babbage machine.
Just watch the coffee spills :/
Where is the wifi Chipset for the 802.11 and Bluetooth? why didnt you guys list it for the 15 inch model and you listed it for the 13 inch?
Hey there Moe Khan! In step 10 there is the Murata/Apple Wi-Fi chip. This is likely a combination of both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. Unfortunately this is a proprietary chip, so there is no publicly available data sheet (at least as far as I know). This means we can't confirm that this is FOR SURE a Bluetooth chip. We are just "pretty sure". I hope this helps you! (I also responded to your post on the 13" MBP with Touch Bar).
It is the silver colored chip shown in step 10 is the Murata 339S00056 based on the BCM94602 chip
Obviously was to be soldered a PCIe connector of Graphic Card takes up too much space
I can't see the name of the DAC chip which is being used (the ADC chip is listed) - can anyone make out?
What defines a piece of gear as "Pro" is its field serviceability.
The newest MacBook "Pros" have pretty much 0 field serviceability.
I think they need to rebrand them as the new Mac Airs or something.
C'mon - the battery is GLUED
NO ESCAPE KEY
Pros do not need thin - they need serviceability and ports!
Pro gear is _always_ heavier with more expansion and modularity.
I think Apple is really doing a great job at !#^&^$^ its hard-core 1% user base who got it through the dark days.
Drive full? Toss the machine in the trash and pony up for one with a larger soldered-on ssd
If it were up to Apple we would all be soldered to our chairs at work.
WAY TO GO APPLE
Might as well call it MacBook Prosumer
Is there still a magnetic lid-is-closed switch/sensor?
Used to use the weak magnet trick to get internal display to go off when using external. Magnet sweep around perimeter does nothing on this.
Came here looking for the same answer. I'm a bit leery of just dragging a magnet around until I find the right place. I am hoping someone knows if the magnet trick still works.
Were you able to discover if there is still a hall sensor on the laptop? I, too, used a magnet to force the internal display off when connected to an external monitor. I've tried moving a magnet around the entire laptop but could not get it to sleep. Perhaps Apple made the lid sensor now incorporated into the hinge?
Same question here. I also tried to drag around a magnet without success. I think Apple might have changed the sleep magnet mechanism. Maybe they no longer use the sleep magnet method for display sleep :(
Hope somebody can clarify this.
I think I found the answer: Its no longer use a magnet. I guess the display sleep mechanism is in the hinge.
Try to close the lid and leave about 1cm before the top and bottom case meet together, it will turn off the display without fully close the lid.
Not an ideal way to sleep the display compared to magnet method, but at least you can still do it without fully close the lid. And at least this method should be cooler to the machine compared to fully close the lid.
Return key has broken a month after purchase. Was stuck, now is literally falling off.
I have long hesitated to switch from PC to MAC but this new MacBook Pro convinced me to stay with windows: I can hear, with some effort, the argument saying that soldered SSD/RAM are more reliable than connected. But battery? Common, a battery will age and die no matter the type of connexion. Now you have to go through apple just to change the battery!
About reliability, you buy a MAC knowing that you will recover part of your purchase when you will resell it. If Apple is so confident about its product reliability, why do they offer only 1 year of standard warranty and maximum 3 years (no possibility to get 5 years even if you pay)? Thinkpad standard is 3 years and can be extended to 5 years! Just this warranty policy plus the everything-soldered rise a red-alarm in my mind. I think that the resell value of this new MacBook Pro will be lower in proportion than the one of the former models which were more repairable.
The machine CAN be repairable by the RIGHT person/independent shop. No need to worry about battery being glued and what not, if you have the money and WANT this machine, just get it and if it breaks (provided NOT by accident) take it to apple and they WILL fix it, if it breaks (INCLUDING accidental damage) outside warranty, make sure you do your due diligence and find yourself a reliable repair tech that can FIX your computer for years to come!
I personally WILL NOT buy this device since I have no money, desire nor need to own it.
Intel SR2NH corresponds to QMS180
my cousin gave me a 15" macbook pro 2016 but he didn't pay the extra $100 to upgrade the video card from 455 to the 460. Looks like it's not fused - would it be possible to open this puppy up and change it out?
not possible
This is the worst designed computer I've ever seen in my life. I had to get one of these to confirm compatibility of our software products on one of the new MacBook Pro's. Our software works, so guess what? I'm returning this thing tomorrow. Normally I'd be geeking out and playing with the thing and looking forward to using it for years to come, but this thing is a piece of rubbish.
Apple should seriously consider spinning off the OS X (excuse me, macOS) and Mac computer division to another, independent firm that understands how people use computers and what features they want. This thing, like the "fire hydrant" Mac Pro is a throw away. This is NOT a computer for professional users.
...I think it's time to start looking at BSD and Linux again.
Just purchased a new MBP 15", hopefully it will do 6 years like the last one before failing. Keeping a laptop for longer is much more environmentally friendly than my work colleagues whose Dell laptops get replaced every 3 years (leased from Dell), but in nearly all cases have required at least one repair in those 3 years so replacement after 3 years is a moot point. Also the 6 year old Mac still benchmarked (Geekbench 4) ahead of colleagues new Dell and the cost of 2 Dells over the 6 years is considerably higher than the one Mac. So I saved money, got a better machines, and it was good for the environment. Hopefully work out well this time as well. (Not criticizing the iFixit teardown in any way, if the machine did fail you would have to take it back to Apple since own repair almost impossible as iFixit point out.)
That's internal to the Intel Core i7-6700HQ—you can't see it unless you rip into the CPU itself, and even then it's just a cluster of cores on the CPU die. Here's an example of what that looks like (albeit on a completely different chip). ;)
The WiFi module is also soldered in and it is tied to the serial number of the laptop. If the WiFi dies you are screwed, you cannot replace it because it requires programming. If you try to use a USB WiFi adapter that will not work also
I can confirm that this is simply not true. The wifi on my mbp stopped working after a top-case replacement. It is very much still possible for me to get online using a usb wifi adapter.
Erez -
Does anyone know if it would be possible to get the ICs Samsung K9PHGY8 flash storage? For well equipped service center it should not be a major problem to de-solder and solder them. In this review there are 4x64GB. Are there 4x256GB or 4x512 available? Would it possible to buy a Samsung SSD and get the ICs off the board? Any information?
There is so many suppliers to buy the chips. Only thing is you need to know the right suppliers who can supply quality products.
Since I have read the teardown from iFixit supposed to change their name to (I cannot fix anything). Every single device from the 2012 retina is not repairable as there is no effort to try t learn the system. I was working on the mac at component level repair and when we decided no fi is not feasible for me. If I were not going to waste my time more than 4 hours to diagnose the device, it is okay. When the CPU shorted, it is not going to get me work on it since I will have to spend at least another 4 hours just to find out if the CPU is reusable or not.
There is many possible way to fix if someone did not tempered with the boards especially so called repair shops, scrubbed the boards rubbing alcohol to make things worse plus the rice repairs. Once I see rice, I just tell them to take it back because rice is food that cannot fix anything.
The battery is glued on and it takes a little effort to replace as long as replacement is available. The touch ID circuit is repairable and no new logic board required.
I have the late 2016 MB Pro, purchased in Dec. 2016. Top of the line specs - ran me about 4K. This morning, inexplicably found that the unit is not taking a charge. Tried multiple Apple Power Adapters, multiple USB=C charging cables, multiple outlets, reset SMC, etc.- nothing. Took it into the Apple Store just st now. They are indicating $795 fee for replacement of the logic board. Additional $100 fee to attempt to recover data (most is backed up via Dropbox but some home video that I’d transferred that’s at risk. So all the gripes in this thread about the lack of repairability are my reality right now. !#^&@@. Love the Mac OS but seriously contemplating going out and buying a Windows laptop that has the 32 GB RAM I need regardless. In researching, seems like this power issue is pretty common.
In all discussions about whether if the MacBook could be compared in specs with other much more cheaper computers or if it is a pro computer, etc, sometimes maybe the most important thing it's forgotten, what makes a Mac a better computer it's the OS. Osx it's way better than windows and much more versatile for video editing or publishing than linux
Just brought a mid 17 mbp 15”. I have a tech that will change my 256 ssd. I'm not sure of what I have to buy. I'm not tech savvy. I'm trying to go 2tb high. Do I buy the slim one or the side square one or from what I read multiple 500gb ones? Help please
anyone else think that Apple is moving to make its computers more like its mobile devices (iPad, iPhone, etc.) inside and completely unrepairable and unupgradable?
For me, the whole Apple experience has been buying a well built machine with a rock solid operating system that was VERY expensive compared to competitors but with the ability to enhance and upgrade was very reasonable - not a throw-away computer it seems.
A recent ugly experience made this clear when my MB Pro 2016 with Touch Bar machine went black. No power nothingl. I tried everything first then to the genius bar. I had TimeMachine backups on High Sierra. I get to the Genius bar, the guy wants to take it to the back room (anyone else feel like that sounds like a sauna line besides me?). He comes out and says they’ll need to send it in for repair (I knew that).
MB Pro back a few days later - ‘new logic board’ inside. I spent ** 4 days ** restoring -> 2016 software (Sierra) on it clean due to fixed 2 TB SSD! Prior, simple disk copy worked.
Typically just out of warranty and my SSD fails. I open it up and find the thing is completely soldered in. How am I left with any other option than taking it back to Apple and paying a high fee for something previously I could do myself. Last time I buy Apple.
Jobs did the best machine, Apple did the most price.
avrei bisogno di una tastiera per questo modello
tastiera per 1707
@jptebo15 There are two different flex cables for the Touch Bar—see our repair guides for detailed instructions.
Can you fix the Bios Passwords
If I knew before changing the battery and hard disk so difficult, I never buy this.
This "teardown" is useless. I am more interested in taking the computer apart correctly and being aware of the risks and knowing what size screws go where so I don't damage the laptop on re assembly. Whats happened to the good , guided teardowns I used to find on iFixit? I
t's a NO from me.