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Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7

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  1. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Viti Pentalobe: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria agli ioni di litio carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.

    • Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm nella parte inferiore del tuo iPhone.

    • Lo smontaggio del display dell'iPhone danneggerà le guarnizioni impermeabili. Devi avere pronte delle guarnizioni sostitutive prima di procedere con il passo successivo, oppure fare attenzione all'intrusione di liquidi nel tuo iPhone se lo rimonterai senza sostituire le guarnizioni.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Replica

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Replica

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Replica

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Replica

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Replica

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Replica

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Replica

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Replica

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Replica

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Replica

    They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.

    Anthony Falabella -

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Replica

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Replica

    At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Replica

    I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

    I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

    Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Replica

    I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.

    I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.

    The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?

    H K - Replica

  2. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Procedura di Apertura iPhone 7: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • L'applicazione di calore sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo di fissaggio del display, rendendo più semplice l'apertura.

    • Usa un asciugacapelli o prepara un iOpener e applica calore per circa un minuto per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

  3. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • Applica una ventosa alla metà inferiore del gruppo display, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home, altrimenti non farebbe tenuta sul vetro.

    • Se il tuo schermo è seriamente crepato, ricoprilo con uno strato di nastro adesivo da pacchi trasparente in modo tale che la ventosa faccia presa. In alternativa, puoi usare del nastro adesivo tenace ripiegato su se stesso invece della ventosa. Se tutto questo non funziona, puoi incollare la ventosa allo schermo con della supercolla (cianoacrilica).

  4. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 4, immagine 1 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 4, immagine 2 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 4, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tira la ventosa fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nella fessura.

    • L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione il display è molto tenace e la creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai delle difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo spudger.

  5. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 5, immagine 1 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 5, immagine 2 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 5, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere lo spudger verso sinistra lungo il lato inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il display e il case posteriore.

  6. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 6, immagine 1 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 6, immagine 2 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 6, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro dell'iPhone, iniziando dalla parte inferiore e spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa.

    • Non cercare di forzare la parte superiore del display sollevandolo dal case posteriore, perché è bloccato in posizione da clip in plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

  7. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 7, immagine 1 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 7, immagine 2 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 7, immagine 3 di 3
    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nell'angolo inferiore destro del dispositivo.

    • Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

    • Fai scorrere l'estremità piatta dello spudger sul lato destro del telefono per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.

    • Fai attenzione a non infilare lo spudger troppo all'interno rispetto all'adesivo per evitare danneggiamenti ai cavi delicati che passano sul bordo destro del dispositivo.

  8. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 8, immagine 1 di 2 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 8, immagine 2 di 2
    • Tira verso l'alto la ventosa per sollevare il display e aprire l'iPhone.

    • Non sollevare il display oltre 10° perché ci sono dei cavi a nastro lungo il bordo destro del dispositivo che collegano il display alla scheda logica.

  9. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Solleva la piccola appendice della ventosa per rimuovere lo strumento dal pannello anteriore.

  10. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 10, immagine 1 di 2 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 10, immagine 2 di 2
    • Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura lungo il lato superiore dell'iPhone, tra il case posteriore e il pannello anteriore, per rompere la parte restante dell'adesivo che tiene in posizione lo schermo.

    • Stai attento a non danneggiare le clip in plastica sul lato superiore del telefono.

  11. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tira lievemente in orizzontale il gruppo display per allontanarlo dalla parte superiore del telefono per scollegare le clip che tengono bloccato lo schermo al case posteriore.

    • Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato destro, come se fosse la copertina posteriore di un libro.

    • Anche in questa fase, non cercare di separare completamente il display perché ci sono diversi fragili cavi a nastro che lo collegano ancora alla scheda logica dell'iPhone.

  12. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Disconnessione Batteria: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver
    $5.99
    Compra

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Replica

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Replica

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Replica

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Replica

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Replica

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Replica

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Replica

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Replica

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Replica

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Replica

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Replica

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Replica

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Replica

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - Replica

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Replica

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Replica

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Replica

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Replica

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Replica

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Replica

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Replica

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Replica

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Replica

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard - Replica

    A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

    Jack - Replica

  13. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del connettore.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Replica

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Replica

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Replica

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

  14. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 14, immagine 1 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 14, immagine 2 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 14, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega leggermente di lato il cavo del connettore per impedire che possa far contatto con lo zoccolino e quindi possa alimentare il telefono.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Replica

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Replica

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Replica

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Replica

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

    It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

    Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

    PJM - Replica

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all! Careful removing the lower bracket - mine was stuck to this battery connector, which came up with the bracket. Luckily no cable or connector damage. Be careful. Thank you all!

    dantegd - Replica

    after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level

    Neil Mills - Replica

  15. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Gruppo Display: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Gruppo Display: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Gruppo Display: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per staccare i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.

    • Per riconnettere questi cavi, premi da un'estremità finché senti il clic che indica il blocco, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente disallineato, il connettore può piegarsi, portando a danni permanenti.

    • Se dopo aver rimontato il telefono ti ritrovi con uno schermo bianco, linee bianche sul display oppure se manca, del tutto o in parte, la risposta touch, prova a staccare e riattaccare con cura entrambi questi cavi e assicurati che siano ben bloccati in posizione.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

    minimalist - Replica

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Replica

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Replica

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Replica

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Replica

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Replica

    Same happened to me. What solution did you find? Could you replace a part to make it work? Thank you!

    Viktoria -

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Replica

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Replica

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Replica

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. - Replica

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard - Replica

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey - Replica

    I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(

    Viktoria -

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes - Replica

    I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!

    Viktoria -

    thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.

    soupamanx -

    Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

    Viktoria - Replica

  16. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 16, immagine 1 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 16, immagine 2 di 3 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 16, immagine 3 di 3
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.

    • Alcuni telefoni potrebbero avere viti Y000. Apple ha iniziato a utilizzare Y000 per questi a un certo punto a metà del ciclo di vita del prodotto.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Replica

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Replica

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Replica

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Replica

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Replica

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Replica

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Replica

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Replica

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Replica

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Replica

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Replica

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Replica

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Replica

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Replica

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Replica

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Replica

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Replica

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F - Replica

    This worked for me! As mentioned use PH000 and apply pressure and then unscrew the screws. They are tiny, adhere to a piece of tape so you don't lose them.

    Rosie J - Replica

  17. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 17, immagine 1 di 2 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 17, immagine 2 di 2
    • Stacca il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Questo connettore a pressione deve essere riconnesso un'estremità alla volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Replica

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Replica

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - Replica

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - Replica

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily - Replica

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia - Replica

  18. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 18, immagine 1 di 1

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Replica

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Replica

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Replica

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.

    If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!

    If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.

    Rosie J - Replica

  19. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Sfiato Barometrico: passo 19, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,9 mm che fissano lo sfiato barometrico al case posteriore.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil - Replica

    I’m stucked with the right screw, can't get it out. Any ideas?

    Racecar - Replica

    Edit: I’ve lifted the taptic engine without unplugging it. Removing the battery stripes didn't cause any issues.

    Racecar -

    I didn't see the necessity, so I didn't remove the Barometric Vent since I decided I wasn't going to uplug the Taptic Engine, although I did remove screws for the Taptic Engine, but I didn't unplug it. I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J - Replica

  20. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 20, immagine 1 di 2 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 20, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi lo sfiato.

  21. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Taptic Engine: passo 21, immagine 1 di 2 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7, Taptic Engine: passo 21, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del Taptic Engine dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J - Replica

  22. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 22, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,6 mm che fissano il Taptic Engine al case posteriore.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Replica

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb - Replica

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb - Replica

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

    Phil - Replica

    another person checking in here to assure you that, if you find a stripped screw (or more) at this step, you’re not crazy. I have one as well! I’m in dis-effing-belief. This phone has NEVER been serviced by anyone, and was allegedly brand new when purchased.

    To the person suggesting a dremel tool to remedy this…. *blink**Blink*. Are you kidding me right now? *slap*. Vibrating the !&&* out of all those sensitive parts - not to mention what one slip could end in your phone being effectively sawed in half.

    Cunning Stunt - Replica

  23. Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 23, immagine 1 di 2 Rimozione Taptic Engine dall'iPhone 7: passo 23, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi il Taptic Engine.

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Evan Noronha

Membro da: 02/05/15

223.163 Reputazione

168 Guide realizzate

20 Commenti

Good job and prof.

Firasss Alhuseniy - Replica

Bravo!!!!!!!!¡!

omanvaal - Replica

Thank you for your amazing instruction, it was my first phone repair ever! iPhone is fully functional again!

Christopher Saunders - Replica

were can I buy one tapic Engine?

playabeach - Replica

Hi! In our store the Taptic Engine is just called an iPhone 7 Vibrator. It's linked at the top of the guide, or you can find it here.

Adam O'Camb -

About the warning (Opening the iPhone 7 will damage the waterproof seals on the display. If you do not replace the adhesive seals, your phone will function normally, but will no longer be water-resistant). How do I replace the adhesive seals? where can I get them?

Angel Jonathan - Replica

@angeljonathan The parts and instructions for replacing the adhesive are linked in Step 18.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi! I changed Taptic Engine for new but same problem, doesn’t work. Can you help us? Thanks!

Tom - Replica

I replaced the taptic engine and I also replaced the dock connector, but it stll doesn’t work. I smell apple fuckary… i swear this company is just plain evil…

jordyshujaa2 - Replica

I changed Taptic Engine for new but same problem, doesn’t work.

Has this worked for others ?

Locked by apple like their HB ?

toshahin - Replica

Does anyone know if the phone (iphone 7) will run like normal without the taptic engine?

Julio - Replica

Answered it myself. YES.

Removed it just now and it is up and running fine.

I will update after a week to confirm.

No need to remove battery either, leave the screen attached and the battery in, start with the barometric vent.

Highly recommend this mod.

Julio - Replica

thanks for the answer!

ibisiki -

Hey everyone.

While doing this repair, I have damaged the connector between the screen and the iphone (shown in step number 15)

The result is that my home button is not working anymore.

Now how can I repair that? what sould I replace ? the whole screen? another part?

Thanks

Maxim - Replica

Will it harm iphone to use device without the Taptic Engine?

jasontrunzo - Replica

My home button is not working, nor is the taptic engine that I just installed. Did I get a dud? I followed the instructions very closely and made no mistakes.

Nate Ardle - Replica

why do you need to remove the entire screen component?

Dylan Bergstrom - Replica

according to a guide online the replacement taptic engine should be reprogrammed with data from the old one… can this be confirmed?

ibisiki - Replica

accidentally dropped my iphone 7 and now taptic engine not working correctly. it's working but have some noise. how can i fixed that. can i replace another taptic engine directly. if i replace one, have any compatibility issues? how can i find solutions this problem. please help.

Tharindu Randula - Replica

Thank you for this guide!! First ever iPhone repair with this device needing only to have the Taptic engine resecured. End result is no clicking on the home button and the phone still works. I have another that I am going to attempt shortly but now I feel more comfortable after knocking out this first one. Really appreciated!!

Preston Hudson - Replica

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