Salta al contenuto principale

Introduzione

Use this guide to replace the complete Retina Display assembly on your Retina MacBook 2015.

To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable. These accessories are not included with your MacBook, so make sure you have them ready before you begin.

Panoramica Video

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and flip it upside-down.

    • 2015 models only: To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.

    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    If, like me, you didn’t have a P5 Pentalope screwdriver but did have one that fits an iPhone.

    You can sand down the tip until it’s the right size.

    Stuart - Replica

    Hello,

    where do I plug the USB-C to USB-A cable on MacBook MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015)

    I can’t any port suitable for USB-c !??

    sissi - Replica

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges. Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case. Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.

    • Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.

    • Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.

    • You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.

    • During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

  2. While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.
    • While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

  3. Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle. It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.
    • Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.

    • It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

    This step at the suggested height tears the ribbon cable. do step 7 first. carefully

    Kiernan - Replica

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button. If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds. If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.

    • If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.

    • If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.

    • This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

    Wow okay could someone explain why this is necessary? What happens if you skip this step and simply undo the screw to disconnect the power?

    EB Computers - Replica

    Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What if I can’t get my LED to power on when reassembling the machine?

    greg2b - Replica

    Update: Realized my USB-C connector (Step 14) wasn’t properly seated.

    greg2b -

  5. Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.
    • Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

  6. Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
    • Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.

    • Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

    Before the IPD flex cable can be removed the battery disconnect button has be held down for up to 10 seconds. If the LED near the battery connector is switched on it shows that there is power going through the logic board from the battery, once the button is pressed and this light goes off the machine is safe to be worked on.

    Aaron Dalziel - Replica

  7. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

  8. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…

    Simon Anthony - Replica

    I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.

    All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.

    Simon Anthony - Replica

    I found “Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors”

    Riconoscimento e scollegamento dei connettori dei cavi

    useful, esp. for someone who has not used ZIF connectors and retaining flaps before. There are several retaining flaps that need to be opened. The first time is tricky as you need a sense of how much force to apply. I used the flat end of the provided spudger. Apply progressively firmer upward pressure until the retaining flap pops open. The first time is tricky, but straightforward thereafter.

    Ki Park - Replica

  9. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.
    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

  10. Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat. Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.
    • Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat.

    • Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.

    • Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.

    • It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

    You can open the laptop screen all the way open with it flat in the table (screen facing up) and the keyboard should stay up.

    xavierviveros - Replica

  11. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board. 2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw, which may come loose. Be sure to reinstall it during reassembly.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • 2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw, which may come loose. Be sure to reinstall it during reassembly.

    the moment you opening macbook case and before any tinkering with connections, you MUST press little yellow button on logicboard, located on the right from battery connector - this will disable all power to the board. You can check by looking at the small led on left side of the battery connector - if there is very faint light, it means that power is still there. After pressing button light should go off. Removing screw is not necessary at all, and like I said - you MUST disable power before any touching to connections etc.

    DigiHead - Replica

  12. As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector. As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.
    • As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

  13. Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:

    • 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw

    • Some variations of this model may use a Phillips screw.

    • 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    This was oddly the hardest part. That Tri-Point screw just wouldn’t budge! I had to sand the end of the only Tri-point screwdriver I had in the end to get it to fit.

    Stuart - Replica

    Be sure to get the metal plate under the chip near where the PT5 screw is before tightening

    abscate - Replica

    I should have read the comments before using the provided 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 bit. I almost stripped the screw but was able to use a small flat head bit to open the screw.

    Ifixit: you may want to update this part in the instructions. Not everyone reads the comment section, esp. when it comes to specification of bits which is basic and must be accurate. This is one of the more critical ones in the procedure that can easily go south. The rest of the instructions are excellent.

    Ki Park - Replica

    early 2015 model here. I’ve used a Y1.5 with cautiously applied down force.

    beaudry.ian - Replica

    My 2015 had a 2.5mm Y screw not a Y000.

    Michael Bonney - Replica

    Adding to the helpful comments above, on replacing the 1.1mm tripoint screw, I found the the magnetism of the nearby speaker coil overcame that of the driver and would draw the screw away or the combo of forces would fling it out of the work area! After fiddling with it for too long, I used some of the battery adhesive removed earlier to attached the screw to the driver. Wax would probably work better if I’d had some.

    jefflyons - Replica

  14. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board. To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.

    Emphasis on aligning the bracket correctly. What the pictures do not show is that underneath the flat part of the metal bracket (the area between the two screw holes) is a connector that needs to be accurately aligned. Aligning the two screw holes does not imply that the connector is seated correctly.

    After I re-assembled my 2015 MacBook power would not come on. I thought I had damaged the logic board despite being careful and following instructions. Diagnosing the problem took a while. Retracing the steps and focusing on power supply I was able to determine that the metal flap which hides the connector underneath had not made proper contact.

    What I did was to use a finger to get a tactile feel for the connector underneath the metal bracket aligning properly and then press down vertically when it seemed to be aligned. It’s a subtle tactile feel. After re-doing this step, I got power back. Be careful not to damage the connector as noted in the instructions.

    Ki Park - Replica

  15. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.

  16. Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
    • Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly, orient the ribbon cable so that the side with the white stripe faces you, as shown.

    hey my macbook do not have sound after replacing the topcase, i did connect everything like here you did, also I did the reset of PR and NVRAM. What Can I check more? simply when I open the OS, there is no audio device at all

    dkflu - Replica

  17. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.

  18. It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape. If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.
    • It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape.

    • If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.

    • Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.

    • Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.

    • Take care not to damage the cable. If it doesn't separate easily, heat the cable and/or the case directly beneath it with a hair dryer or iOpener to soften the adhesive, and try again.

  20. Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
    • Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    • Immediately close the retaining flap.

    • The flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly. Carefully line up the cable with the gold contacts facing down, and gently slide it into the connector. Take care not to crimp or damage the cable. When fully inserted, the indentations on the sides should not be visible.

    A step was skipped. You have to flip up the metal locking tab on the socket before the cable can be removed. See the photo.

    Vin Coniglione - Replica

    And be careful when re-inserting the connector. One end of the two indentations got a little bent (I did not notice) which resulted in a black screen when powering up. I used a heat gun (low setting) to separate the cable from the labtop housing. When re-assembling, first insert the connector (after closing the metal flap as instructed), verify that it’s properly seated, then re-attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing. In the first try, I first re-attached the cable to the housing, then tried to insert the cable connected into the metal socket. Because of a lack of slack, the cable connector at one end got bent slightly. After identifying the problem, I had to straighten it/unbend out using my fingers. Hence it is easier to insert the connector first, then attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing.

    Ki Park - Replica

  21. Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.
    • Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.

  22. Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable. Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.
    • Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.

    Does unplugging the "dual microphone assembly ribbon cable" affect anything other than the microphones? The headphone jack is separate, for example, right?

    wizfish mcfrabblegabben - Replica

    Right. We haven't tested it, but unplugging that cable shouldn't affect anything other than the microphones. You can see the microphone assembly in this guide.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  23. Use tweezers to pull the  microphone assembly ribbon cable free of its connector. Use tweezers to pull the  microphone assembly ribbon cable free of its connector.
    • Use tweezers to pull the microphone assembly ribbon cable free of its connector.

    I broke the microphone assembly ribbon cable, from step twenty five. Is there anyway to fix this, soldering kit, or can I order a new cable online?

    Read Fuller - Replica

  24. Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.

  25. Remove the audio jack board.
    • Remove the audio jack board.

    On your way back during reassembly, as long as you are VERY careful with the ribbon once you do it, it is easier to reattach the ribbon in the connector before reseating the audio jack board.

    lauren - Replica

  26. Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly.
    • Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly.

  27. Remove the single 4.3 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the USB-C port ribbon cable.
    • Remove the single 4.3 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the USB-C port ribbon cable.

  28. Unfold the USB-C port ribbon cable until it lays flat, allowing access to the bracket beneath. Unfold the USB-C port ribbon cable until it lays flat, allowing access to the bracket beneath. Unfold the USB-C port ribbon cable until it lays flat, allowing access to the bracket beneath.
    • Unfold the USB-C port ribbon cable until it lays flat, allowing access to the bracket beneath.

  29. Lift and remove the metal bracket securing the USB-C port ribbon cable connector.
    • Lift and remove the metal bracket securing the USB-C port ribbon cable connector.

    • During reassembly, be sure the metal tab on the USB-C connector board slides through the slit on the metal bracket.

  30. Use a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port ribbon cable by prying the connector straight up. Pry from the side nearest the back edge of the MacBook. Remove the ribbon cable.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port ribbon cable by prying the connector straight up.

    • Pry from the side nearest the back edge of the MacBook.

    • Remove the ribbon cable.

  31. Fully open the display.
    • Fully open the display.

    • Set the MacBook down on its right edge with the display facing away from you, as shown.

  32. Remove the four 4.8 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display hinges. Remove the four 4.8 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display hinges.
    • Remove the four 4.8 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display hinges.

    On an early 2015 model, I found the T9 Torx bit to be too tight a fit in the hinge screw heads. Almost to the point where one screw head got slightly damaged as the bit slipped when turning as it hadn’t gone in far enough. This is the T9 bit that came with the iFixIt 64 bit driver kit.

    So I used the T8 bit instead and managed to loosen the other screws much more easily. It’s a slightly looser fit but it goes in further and didn’t slip even though the screws on this particular machine were very very tightly screwed in.

    Cool_Breeze - Replica

    @cool_breeze I think you’re right and this is probably a mistake in the guide. Apple commonly uses T8 screws, T9 not so much. But it can be hard to tell for sure depending on which toolkit you happen to be using. I’ll update the text to say T8! Thanks for the heads-up.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  33. Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case. There are only a few millimeters of play between the hinges and the case, so you won't need to push far. Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.
    • Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case.

    • There are only a few millimeters of play between the hinges and the case, so you won't need to push far.

    • Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    Furthermore once the repair is complete it's also standard procedure to use a 5Watt power adapter to charge the MacBook until a small chime is heard, at which point the standard adapter can be used

    Jamie H - Replica

    How long does it take usually before you should hear the chime? Any way to test that the USB-C has been properly plugged backed in before reassembling everything?

    Pierre Renaux - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.

Altre 39 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Geoff Wacker

Membro da: 30/09/2013

84.989 Reputazione

89 Guide realizzate

thank you: very good and clear guiding through

errico armandillo - Replica

Is there a guide to replace the LCD without replacing the entire shell with housing? Replacements for the LCD only are alt cheaper than buying the entire thing.

MrNewbhero - Replica

MrNewbhero - You probably can replace it without a full clamshell, however, be advised that the front glass acts as a part of the LCD and the layers underneath are just backlight pieces and so on. It's a very difficult job for a DIY

PC Service Center Oesterbro - Replica

This repair is so nervewreaking. I suggest everyone to take your time and really make sure you're not rushing it, or you may break the connectors, as there's tape on everything almost breaking the connector when you remove the flex cable.

PC Service Center Oesterbro - Replica

My screen bezel is tearing apart in pieces and got no damage, drop or else, since day 1 I use a UrbanArmor cover, how can I change it, I bought a replacement in eBay.

gerardjulien - Replica

Is this valid for the 2016 model? Does the 2016 model use the same display assembly replacement?

Regards

David Bolet Alcaide - Replica

The procedure is very similar on the 2016 model, with a few minor differences (screw types, etc). Some differences are documented here, but following this guide should get you 99% of the way there. I'm not sure whether the display itself is compatible/interchangeable between model years.

Jeff Suovanen -

Ive just done a screen replacement after my son spilled tea over it. The MacBook was still functioning, sound, booting up etc but the screen was dead. Ive just replaced the screen, all works fine, but now the trackpad and keyboard are not working/no power and the trackpad is getting very hot. Does the trackpad send power to the keyboard in this design as it seems like the only link to via a cable.

jaj_the_mad_cymro - Replica

I changed the screen but now it won’t start anymore. Any ideas ?

François Deschepper - Replica

I have a broken screen. If I remove the screen, will the MacBook default to external screen? Is it okay to power-up with the display disconnected?

fheald - Replica

Is it possible to remove the aluminum back from the display? I have scratches on the top case of my macbook and I just want to remove the aluminum top case, because the display works just fine and I don’t want to spent this amount of money for a perfect working display.

Adriano - Replica

There’s an alternate way to replace the display assembly shown in a YouTube video from a UK company. It's seemingly a lot less steps, easier, and much quicker. I followed it successfully, so I’m not sure why there is such a big difference between their procedure and this one…

jgregson00 - Replica

I think you were lucky. In that video they do not disconnect the battery, they pry apart ZIF connectors with a screwdriver, they reconnect the TCON cable incorrectly, they skip the 5W charging procedure—all good ways to brick your device. Glad it worked out for you, but I would not recommend anyone follow that example.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did the repair and all works except the when i click the trackpad little harder the screen goes off and i press it again goes on. Is this the battery connector or any suggestions?

larsrissmann - Replica

Hi, I did the tutorial and everything worked out except for one thing. My Macbook isn’t detecting when I close it and open it. I would like some help, does anyone know how to solve it?

Arthur Rezende de Faria - Replica

I broke the microphone assembly ribbon cable, from step twenty five. Is there anyway to fix this, soldering kit, or can I order a new cable online?

Read Fuller - Replica

Excellent guide, as always with I fix it. I always come to your site even for repairs I’m used to just for the screws refs/colors etc which are so convenient.

But now I’m not starting a repair without you since as years go by you keep adding really precious notes and info (I.e in this guide, to power the 2015 models with a phone charger first), which along with all the hi-res pictures makes you the apple products repair authority by far! THANK YOU!

Soulshakepower - Replica

excellent explained! thanks. i. hav the problem that my webcam doesn’t work anymore. I don’t understand why. i’ve tried the Sudo killall in terminal the pram the nvram resets. but he doesn’t find my webcam. does someone know what the problem/damage is? thanks!

Emiel Leuregans - Replica

Everything worked except that when I finished, I discovered that I had no sound and internal speakers does not appear as an option in the sound pane in System Preferences. So I assume I must have accidentally disconnected something but I am not see anything. Any clue what I missed and how to fix this?

quackerback - Replica

Hi my screen had a column of about 3 cm wide that sometime come more dark than the rest of the display, near the center of the MacBook.

I saw that this column with some micro movement of the display sometime goes off. So I had assumed that the problem could be the flex cable that connect the display assembly to the logic board, it's possible or the problem is the lcd itself?

CharlieBrown - Replica

Aggiungi Commento

Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 28

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 196

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 846

Tutti i Tempi: 64,088