Introduzione
L'elettronica moderna propone una serie impressionante di connettori per il trasferimento dati interno e per l'alimentazione. E, per bloccare un lavoro, non c'è niente di peggio di rompere accidentalmente un connettore.
Usa questa guida per familiarizzare con i tipi più comuni di connettori e apprendere gli strumenti e le tecniche necessari per disconnetterli (e ricollegarli) in modo sicuro.
Cosa ti serve
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Il connettore ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) spesso causa problemi ai principianti. I connettori ZIF sono usati per fissare delicati cavi a nastro, come i cavi FFC (flat flex cable) o FPC (flexible printed circuit).
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Per scollegare il cavo, utilizza la punta di uno spudger o un'unghia per sollevare la piccola aletta di bloccaggio. A questo punto puoi estrarre il cavo in modo sicuro.
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Occasionalmente, troverai un cavo a nastro che si estrae semplicemente dalla sua presa, senza alcuna linguetta di bloccaggio. Questi cavi sono di norma più resistenti dei connettori ZIF e l'estremita terminale di solito è rinforzata con della plastica rigida.
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Questi tipi di connessioni solitamente si trovano sulle stampanti, proiettori e console da gioco, come quello su questa scheda di controllo della PS5.
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Per scollegare il cavo, estrailo direttamente dal connettore.
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Per scollegare i connettori piatti come questo, utilizza uno spudger per fare leva su ciascun lato. Quindi, solleva il connettore direttamente dalla sua presa.
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Posiziona la punta dello strumento sotto il bordo del connettore e solleva il connettore direttamente dalla presa.
I have an idea,/Request that I'm sure would be worth the effort, and fit right into this subject. how about a step by step guide on fixing the mistake of fudging up the socket yes on the mother board Guilty, right now it's a 500 dollar paper weight!! ! And I'm sure there's a long line of us,right guys, since you guy's are Awesome at it! Where to source the female sockets that's go onto the board and the proper steps and tecniques , would be greatly appreciated, keep up the great work!!
Sorry to hear that! My usual advice would be to take it to a repair shop that performs board-level repairs (a.k.a. microsoldering). Replacing a damaged connector socket typically requires a lot of skill, practice, and tools that likely cost more than the full retail price of your device. So, it’s not exactly DIY-friendly! But if you’re interested, you can find a good introduction to board-level repairs on our YouTube channel.
Is there a specific name for this type of connector? (brand, etc).
Stack-type Board-To-Board connector. JAE is a big manufacturer. FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit), what we commonly know as flex cables usually - is considered a board in this context.
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Per scollegare il cavo, fa' scorrere uno strumento di leva o delle pinzette sottili e antistatici sotto il collo metallico del connettore e solleva dritto dalla scheda.
Hello, I am repairing a tablet and the head to my coaxial cable fell off. What do I do?
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Per separare il connettore, spingi delicatamente la punta di uno spudger sotto la clip. Poi, ruota la clip sopra il connettore, in modo che giaccia piatta contro il cavo.
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Tenendo insieme la clip e il cavo, tira delicatamente nella direzione del cavo stesso per rimuovere il connettore dal suo zoccolo.
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Ecco un altro tipo di connettore per cavi a nastro che si trova comunemente sulle console di gioco Xbox.
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Per rimuoverlo, usa uno spudger o un'unghia per sollevare la linguetta blu trasparente dal connettore.
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Quindi, utilizza la punta dello spudger per aprire la linguetta di bloccaggio in plastica, la linguetta di bloccaggio si sposterà solo di 2 mm.
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Tira il cavo a nastro dal connettore nella direzione del cavo per estrarlo.
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Alcuni connettori richiedono un po' di persuasione prima di cedere i loro cavi. Questo connettore del cavo dello speaker sul ROG Ally non ha un punto comodo per fare leva o tirare.
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Per scollegarlo, utilizza la punta di uno spudger per premere sui lati alternati del connettore per "farlo uscire" dal suo alloggiamento.
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I connettori del cavo di alimentazione come questo hanno una piccola linguetta laterale che li blocca in posizione.
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Per separare il connettore dalla presa, schiaccia la linguetta contro il connettore e tira il connettore verso l'alto dalla presa.
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I connettori JST sono simili ma non hanno la linguetta di blocco. Ci sono alcuni altri tipi simili, con o senza linguetta, e con 2 o 3, a volte fino a mezza dozzina o più fili. Questi ultimi possono ad esempio collegare un microfono o un altoparlante in una macchina fotografica o connettere i circuiti stampati in una radio.
Hallo, ich habe genau wie auf dem Bild bei meiner PS3 Slim ein ähnliches Kabel von dem Laufwerk zu trennen versucht. Beim Ziehen ist nicht das Kabel abgerissen, sondern die Anschlusstelle an der Platine hat sich auf einer Seite gelöst. Muss man hier nun das Teil wieder dran löten oder kann man es irgendwie mit Klebern fixieren?
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Se vedi un cavo composto da un sacco di fili inguainati individualmente che portano a un singolo connettore, tirare il cavo stesso può essere il metodo migliore.
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Tira il cavo nella stessa direzione dei singoli fili per estrarlo dal connettore.
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Per rimuoverlo, fai scivolare con cura uno spudger o un plettro per chitarra sotto il cavo per separarlo dall'adesivo.
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Alcuni cavi interni di alimentazione e dati, come questi cavi SATA, funzionano in modo molto simile ai normali cavi audio/video che probabilmente hai sparsi per casa.
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Per rimuoverli, basta tirare nella direzione del cavo.
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Spingi la linguetta con il dito, quindi tira per rimuovere il cavo.
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Incontrerai anche fili che non sono stati progettati per essere rimossi, e in effetti sono saldati al loro posto.
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Non c'è da preoccuparsi: un saldatore e un po' di filo di stagno rendono facile lavorare con questi piccoli amici.
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Se la saldatura non è ancora la tua passione, vai alla nostra guida sulle tecniche di saldatura e aggiungi un'altra voce all'elenco delle tua competenze!
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Si trovano spesso in calcolatrici tascabili, telefoni DECT e altri dispositivi con un semplice display monocromatico a 7 segmenti o a bassa risoluzione. Sono utilizzati per collegare le piste conduttive sul vetro di un LCD a un set di pad su un circuito stampato sottostante. (Questi display a volte soffrono di segmenti o file di pixel morti).
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Di solito viti o linguette metalliche piegate fissano un telaio metallico, che comprime la striscia elastomerica tra il display LCD e il circuito stampato. Rilascia questi per separare il display LCD e la striscia di elastomero.
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La striscia elastomerica è costituita da strati conduttivi e non conduttivi che si alternano lungo la sua lunghezza. Ce ne sono diversi per ogni connessione al display LCD, eliminando la necessità di un allineamento preciso.
Hi
How do you fix this type of connection
Do I need a special glue or just reheat with soldering iron
Thank you
Nothing you can do with glue or a soldering iron. Disassemble and take out the elastomeric strip. Gently squeeze it sideways, i.e. in a direction perpendicular to its height. Gently clean the glass and the circuit board with isopropyl alcohol and reassemble making sure that the elastomeric strip is squeezed (in its height) as much as possible between the board and the glass. Alternatively, if you can get a replacement elastomeric strip of the same dimensions that would be even better but I think they’re only normally sold in large quantities to manufacturers.
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Prima o poi ti capiterà di trovare un connettore che non hai mai visto da nessun'altra parte.
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Ispeziona attentamente il connettore e cerca di capire come si scollega.
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Se avrai ancora problemi, cerca le guide per dispositivi simili per vedere se forniscono indizi o chiedi aiuto nella nostra comunità Risposte.
Hi,
I've just been wrangling with a 25ish year old Kenwood stereo. There were some connectors on it that I couldn't work out - which led me to this guide. The specific connectors aren't shown here. It turns out theybare spring-loaded, and you have to push the upper part (that I initially thought was a plug) down into the board - and this releases the ribbon cable. On the stereo, there are some shorter ones (8-pin), and some longer ones (15pin). On the longer ones, if you look close enough, they helpfully say ‘push' on them.
I've taken some photos of you'd like to add them to this guide?
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20 Commenti
Beautiful work. However, my modern LCD flat screen TV set uses the "No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors" and I think they are fairly common in this application.
"Step 2 — No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors
Occasionally, you'll find a ribbon cable that simply pulls out of its socket, with no retaining flap.
<snip>
These kinds of connectors are fairly rare, so check carefully for a way to release the connector before you resort to pulling on the ribbon cable."
This was great! thanks for the detailed pictures. I have a question though on a very specific port used on apple tv 1.
here's the link to my post
It's important to note that ZIF connectors often do require force to insert, for example the digitizer ribbon cable on the Nexus 6, which has a bit of negative tension from being curved. It has to be pushed in using the little raised portion with a fingernail, and held so the line on the cable matches the line on the PCB before closing the retention bracket or else it will not connect properly.
I have a visio T-con board that has two flat ribbon connectors the one to the screen as a flip open latch you can do with your finger nail the other has a thin metal strip that over hangs the end on both sides. And ideas on how this one opens up? Rowland
Great post!
Would be great if Jeff or someone could help me with my question, doesn't look as though that connector type is covered in the the post above. Its listed here - Need help with these Connector latches
TIA,
Norm
good page, but I was looking for the display connectors for ipad air 2. They seem to just push on, but the pressure is so light I am not confident that they are seating correctly. It won’t turn on at any rate though the screen briefly comes up at boot.
Those are pop connectors—see Step 4. Align them carefully, and press them down; you should feel them click into place.
I recently ran into a FFC (Flat Flex Connector) type I didn’t know how to open exactly, and this page only refers to the flip-lock type. Turns out it was a slide-lock connector and the diagrams on the page below were very helpful. I simply used my tweezers to push on the two tabs towards the cable, the actuator moved easily once you knew which way to apply force.
Doing ifixit versions of these diagrams would be VERY helpful.
Slide Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Flip Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Parent Page: ''https://gct.co/ffc-connector''
Googling to find these hints was VERY difficult not knowing the terminology. But this ifixit page was at the top of the stack, update to save the next guy half an hour googling?
(Updating to say you DO mention ‘sliding’ connectors… but the mechanism of the actuator is not very clear and/or the photos didn’t quite get me there, mine was a smaller pin-pitch I think too).
@clickykbd This is a great idea! I’d love to add it to the guide. Do you mind sharing the name of the device you were working on, so we can try to get some photos of that connector in the wild? Or do you have some photos of your own? For copyright reasons, we usually can’t borrow other people’s images or graphics for our guides without permission. Thanks for sharing!
Jeff, It was a Marshsall VLCD70MD-3G on-camera/field monitor. The connector was for the LCD ribbon flexible pcb cable.. I’ve still got it apart as I am trying to source a LCD, so I can try to get some half decent photos in a day or so. I’m pretty sure I’ve run into these before and they came apart with the “just pull” method… but reseating them without mangling the flat-flex was very difficult without knowing the trick if I recall. Thought I would do my homework this time.
Bonjour
Je voudrais retirer un câble nappe écran sur la carte mêre de mon téléviseur LG 47LE5510 il y a dessus un petit levier qui se lève à l’ongle mais le câble semble collé et je n’ose pas forcer. Sur le connecteur est indiqué FS60 et le câble est un EAD60974135.
Pouvez-vous m’aider car je ne voudrais rien casser et ces 2 câbles coûtent cher en piece détachée.
Merci d’avance
Thank you, thank you, thank you. My husband really needed this.
Some ZIF ribbon connectors I’ve found, have the latch on the side of the insertion of the cable, some others on the oposite side. So be sure to pull on the correct side, or you will damage the connector. Another tip is to pull them very gently and when closing it, also with not much pressure, I have spoiled some hinges in the process, what is left to do is replace the whole connector.
Great article, but just one question… WhatWhat happens if you break one of these? Can you suggest a fix for something like the ZIF connector.
Is it pretty much a write off if you snap the latch on some of these connectors?
I have a 3D printer from China, it is an Artillery Sidewinder X1 v4 model . It uses ribbon cables from the power supply to the heated nozzle and the heated print bed. It is my understanding that power is sent along a couple (or more) of the wires to distribute the load, and I get a good deal of heat at the connector site, on the ribbon cable itself. It is enough heat that I believe the connection and/or the ribbon cable itself will fail.
It is a friction fit connection and I imagine it is difficult to keep the connections inline at the connecting point. The printer uses 20 wire and 30 ribbon wire cables as can be seen at: https://www.amazon.com/Artillery-Ribbon-...
My question, and I do understand the value of your time, is – what can I do to better align the connections? Is there some sort of heavier gauge ribbon I can use and, perhaps, do so through some sort of adapter at the connection point?
Anything you can suggest is appreciated.
Hi,
i need the connector in step 10.
Where can i buy this?
Thank Manuel
Merci : très clair et complet. Je vais pouvoir aider un ami à rebrancher le connecteur de son GPS
Where may I purchase these zif ribbon connectors?
What if I break the ZIF connector itself (were the ribbon goes), is my tablet ruin?
elainegb27 - Replica
Unless you are good with a soldering iron or hot air station I would suggest taking it to someone that can do it.
deswaite -
“…Be sure to pry up on the hinged flap, not the connector socket….” but we’re not going to provide any further information than this and good luck with that :-)
andyescribe - Replica
That’s what the photos are for—providing a visual example. There are a million different implementations of ZIF connector out there, so it’s not possible to provide specific instructions for each one in a single guide. For that, you need to search for the guide for your specific device. Unfortunately, looking at your post history, it appears you attempted to do that, but the guide you were following (Nexus 6) mislabeled the battery connector as a ZIF connector. I’ve corrected the guide. Sorry for the trouble!
Jeff Suovanen -
You have provide awesome tips which is very helpful. I have issue with FPC that not connecting with Cable
Ralph Vale - Replica
hola he intentado cambiar el cristal de mi apple watch 2 despues de conseguirlo me he dado cuenta que he retirado el cable sin bajar la pestaña o no se que he doblado los pines despues de intentar una y otra vez el conector zip de la derecha ha quedado inservible es posible comprar ese conector en algun lugar o sabrian que nombre de conector debo buscar ya que no viene en ninguna expecificacion gracias
Fran Ansio - Replica
Great tutorial, thanks. Had I not seen it, I would have irreparably damaged my keyboard. Perhaps it lacks a bit more guidance on how to place the cables back. I found that part to be the hardest actually.
Juan Dueñas - Replica