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Cosa ti serve
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Usa uno spudger in metallo per rimuovere le coperture in plastica bianca delle viti incastrate nella copertura inferiore vicino alla parte anteriore della Wii.
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Apri la porta protettiva delle prese dei controller finché è perpendicolare con la cornice nera delle prese.
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Tira verso l'alto la porta protettiva per separarla dalla copertura esterna.
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Svita la piccola vite a croce Phillips che fissa la porta della batteria alla copertura inferiore.
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Sfila la porta della batteria dalla Wii.
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Measure across each fuse with a continuity meter.
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If either fuse is open, you will need to replace it with an 0603 fuse; if one is not available, you can use a 0-ohm resistor or jumper wire for testing purposes.
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4 Commenti
Soldering jumpers on those fuses is easier said than done. The left-hand fuse follows the same trace all the way to the larger solder pad above, so don't worry about bridging. But it looks like there's a cap or diode along the trace of the right-hand fuse, so solder carefully! This worked great, and got my Wii drive back to spinning without spending $80 on a new drive.
If anyone could give specifications for the fuses needed, it would be very much appreciated... 0603 Fuses come in different amp ratings. I saw one person suggest elsewhere that after research he found that the ones used in this repair are 2A 0603 fuses, can anyone confirm this please before I get the wrong ones?
Thanks in advance,
James @ Retro Gaming Repair UK
I found a datasheet for littelfuse which labels the fuse as 2A. The datasheet can be found here
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/data_s....
Hope this helps.
Another tip for after you know the fuse is blown instead of removing the fuse and jumpering it add a little solder on both sides of the fuse then use a lead from a resister heating up the solder and push the lead from a resistor into it then do the same for the other side.
this guide assumes you have one revision of the board....i have another revision and can only find one of the resistors