Introduzione

This Nexus 5X replacement guide will show you how to replace only the LCD screen and digitizer on your Nexus 5X mobile device—not the frame assembly. If your replacement part includes the plastic frame, you will need to transfer additional parts (LED, vibration motor, ear speaker, headphone jack, power/volume buttons, and proximity sensor gaskets) to your new frame assembly. Be sure to read through the steps and comments carefully before you begin your replacement.

If your glass screen (digitizer) is cracked, damaged, or unresponsive to touch, this guide will help you replace the damaged glass screen and restore functionality to your device.

If your display has dead pixels, displays distorted or blurry images, or fails to display anything at all, this guide will help you replace the damaged LCD.

Adhesive strength and device condition may vary; please exercise caution when removing components from your device.

  1. Place an opening pick in the opening of the SIM card tray slot and twist it sideways to release the first plastic clip that holds the rear panel in its place. Slide the opening pick around the top edge of the phone to release the plastic clips that secure the rear panel. Slide the opening pick around the top edge of the phone to release the plastic clips that secure the rear panel.
    • Place an opening pick in the opening of the SIM card tray slot and twist it sideways to release the first plastic clip that holds the rear panel in its place.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top edge of the phone to release the plastic clips that secure the rear panel.

  2. Continue to slide the opening pick around all sides of the phone to release all clips that secure the rear panel. Continue to slide the opening pick around all sides of the phone to release all clips that secure the rear panel. Continue to slide the opening pick around all sides of the phone to release all clips that secure the rear panel.
    • Continue to slide the opening pick around all sides of the phone to release all clips that secure the rear panel.

  3. Tilt the opening pick to lift the rear panel a little bit until you can get a good grip. Gently detach the rear panel from the plastic clips next to the fingerprint sensor.
    • Tilt the opening pick to lift the rear panel a little bit until you can get a good grip.

    • Gently detach the rear panel from the plastic clips next to the fingerprint sensor.

    • Remove the rear panel.

  4. Remove the ten 3.6 mm Phillips screws that secure the midframe.
    • Remove the ten 3.6 mm Phillips screws that secure the midframe.

  5. Insert an opening pick into the SIM card tray slot and twist the opening pick sideways to release the plastic clips. Insert an opening pick into the SIM card tray slot and twist the opening pick sideways to release the plastic clips.
    • Insert an opening pick into the SIM card tray slot and twist the opening pick sideways to release the plastic clips.

  6. Continue sliding the opening pick around the upper part of the midframe to release the plastic clips. Continue sliding the opening pick around the upper part of the midframe to release the plastic clips.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the upper part of the midframe to release the plastic clips.

  7. Use the plastic pick to pry open the plastic clips on the long edge of the midframe and on the bottom edge. Make sure the clips on the long edge are released. The midframe is prone to break here if they are not disconnected properly.
    • Use the plastic pick to pry open the plastic clips on the long edge of the midframe and on the bottom edge.

    • Make sure the clips on the long edge are released. The midframe is prone to break here if they are not disconnected properly.

  8. Make sure all the clips are free. Carefully remove the midframe.
    • Make sure all the clips are free.

    • Carefully remove the midframe.

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  10. Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive beneath the rear facing camera. Place the iOpener across the top part of the phone for about 30 seconds.
    • Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive beneath the rear facing camera. Place the iOpener across the top part of the phone for about 30 seconds.

  11. Apply the flat end of a spudger to the left side of the rear facing camera and carefully lever it up. Make sure all of the adhesive underneath is loosened. Apply the flat end of a spudger to the left side of the rear facing camera and carefully lever it up. Make sure all of the adhesive underneath is loosened.
    • Apply the flat end of a spudger to the left side of the rear facing camera and carefully lever it up. Make sure all of the adhesive underneath is loosened.

  12. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display flex connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display flex connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display flex connector.

  13. Grip the lower part of the motherboard with your fingers and carefully lift it upwards. There's a small plastic clip next to the rear-facing camera that holds the motherboard in place. Gently pull the motherboard towards the bottom edge to free it from the plastic clip next to the rear-facing camera.
    • Grip the lower part of the motherboard with your fingers and carefully lift it upwards.

    • There's a small plastic clip next to the rear-facing camera that holds the motherboard in place.

    • Gently pull the motherboard towards the bottom edge to free it from the plastic clip next to the rear-facing camera.

    • Carefully lift the motherboard out of the frame.

    • Be careful—the two cameras are still connected to the board.

  14. Proceed with the following steps if you need to transfer the front-facing and rear-facing cameras to the new motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the rear-facing camera connector from the motherboard. Carefully remove the rear facing camera.
    • Proceed with the following steps if you need to transfer the front-facing and rear-facing cameras to the new motherboard.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the rear-facing camera connector from the motherboard.

    • Carefully remove the rear facing camera.

  15. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the front-facing camera connector from the motherboard. Carefully remove the front-facing camera. Carefully remove the front-facing camera.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the front-facing camera connector from the motherboard.

    • Carefully remove the front-facing camera.

    • Insert the flat end of a nylon spudger just below the battery ribbon cable.

    • Carefully work the spudger along the bottom of the battery to free it from the adhesive.

    • Do not bend or puncture the battery.

    • If the adhesive under your battery is stubborn, use a heat gun to soften the seal. Set your heat gun to "Low" and apply heat 8-10 inches from the battery as needed.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to gently to remove the front-facing camera.

    • The camera is surrounded by a rubber housing and secured at the face with adhesive. You may need to use a nylon spudger to help free the camera.

  16. Gently insert a nylon spudger below the rear-facing camera ribbon cable to remove the camera. This process may require careful use of heat to soften the adhesive that secures the camera to the frame. Do not apply excessive heat to your camera components. Exposing your lenses to extreme heat can break the seals that keep your lenses clear of dust and condensation.
    • Gently insert a nylon spudger below the rear-facing camera ribbon cable to remove the camera.

    • This process may require careful use of heat to soften the adhesive that secures the camera to the frame.

    • Do not apply excessive heat to your camera components. Exposing your lenses to extreme heat can break the seals that keep your lenses clear of dust and condensation.

  17. Use a heat gun over the digitizer ribbon cable to soften the adhesive that secures it to the plastic housing. The Nexus 5X pictured here does not have a layer of shielding tape over the digitizer panel. If this tape is present on your device, simply peel it away from the plastic frame to free the digitizer panel. You'll need to transfer or replace this strip of shielding tape when you install your new screen.
    • Use a heat gun over the digitizer ribbon cable to soften the adhesive that secures it to the plastic housing.

    • The Nexus 5X pictured here does not have a layer of shielding tape over the digitizer panel. If this tape is present on your device, simply peel it away from the plastic frame to free the digitizer panel.

    • You'll need to transfer or replace this strip of shielding tape when you install your new screen.

    • Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the battery housing and the digitizer ribbon cable, or use your fingers to gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable free.

    • Use a heat gun or an iOpener to soften the adhesive underneath the edges of the screen.

    • Hold the heat gun approximately 8 inches from your screen, and apply heat along the edges in a gentle back-and-forth motion for roughly 2 minutes.

  18. Use a suction cup and firmly pull the screen away from the frame to create a small gap. This should not require excessive force. Apply additional heat as needed to soften the screen adhesive.
    • Use a suction cup and firmly pull the screen away from the frame to create a small gap.

    • This should not require excessive force. Apply additional heat as needed to soften the screen adhesive.

    • Insert a plastic opening pick into the gap between the screen and the plastic housing.

    • Slide the plastic opening pick along the border of the screen to free the screen from any remaining adhesive.

  19. Remove the LCD screen & digitizer assembly. Gently feed the digitizer ribbon cable through the frame. Transfer your earpiece and speaker mesh to your new screen.
    • Remove the LCD screen & digitizer assembly.

    • Gently feed the digitizer ribbon cable through the frame.

    • Transfer your earpiece and speaker mesh to your new screen.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Richard Suovanen

Membro da: 07/02/2017

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Good guide, but not the end all - this guide doesn't accurately reflect how difficult the cameras and battery can be to remove. Also, if you are replacing the LCD+digitizer+frame, you will need to remove the LED, headphone jack, and vibration motor

Jay Miley - Replica

Hello Jay! Thank you for your comment. I've added some of the details you mentioned to help our readers. Guide specifics can vary since it's not always possible to judge the state of a reader's particular device, but that's the beauty of a repair wiki! We can all pitch in and create a comprehensive guide.

You are correct—additional components and/or parts may need to be transferred or removed depending on the replacement. You certainly can remove the LED panel, headphone jack, and vibration motor, but it is not required to free the LCD screen and digitizer in this guide. The cameras are removed in this guide due to their fragility and the potential for component damage during the replacement.

Always research replacement kits and parts before ordering, and make sure you've got everything you need for a successful repair!

Richard Suovanen -

This guide helped tremendously, things got a little confusing after step 10 (my replacement screen came with the frame, which I think is the better option). As Jay Miley pointed out there are several other steps required for moving components from the old frame (and unfortunately it's easy to overlook some of the smaller pieces), but it was still nice to have this guide to reference.

Craig - Replica

Hiya Craig! I'm glad to hear that your replacement went well even though you had the +frame replacement part. There are two screen replacement options for the 5X; the +frame replacement part for the 5X requires additional components and gaskets to be transferred from your old frame. I'll try to get a guide up for the LCD & digitizer +frame replacement part in addition to this guide.

Richard Suovanen -

I had a pre-assembled screen / frame so the only real difference was:

* heatgun and remove headphone jack

* power / volume buttons also needed to be switched over (very small flat head screw driver to pop-up)

Andrew Baron - Replica

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