Introduzione
This guide will provide a detailed step-by-step instructions on how to replace the Speed/Motor Control Assembly for the KitchenAid 5.5/6.0/7.0-quart Bowl-Lift Stand Mixers (Models: KSM55/KSM60/KSM70).
NOTE: The 7.0-quart modes (KSM70) are notably different from the ProLine 7.0-quart models (Models KSM7XXX, where XXX is a three-digit number, e.g. KSM7586).
Cosa ti serve
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Place some dish towels or other soft material in the base to protect it from any potential impact.
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Disconnect the planetary from the motor drive shaft by removing the retaining pin (circled in yellow). You can do this with a hammer and either a pin punch or a Torx T15 screwdriver. Simply hammer the punch/screwdriver on the pin until it comes out the other side.
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If the planetary assembly doesn't fall out, you might have to give it a firm pull straight down to remove it.
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Using a #2 Philips Screwdriver, remove the screw which holds on the trim band.
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Remove the trim band.
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Remove the four screws (circled in yellow, two on each side) using a #2 Philips Screwdriver
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Remove the cover by lifting it straight up.
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Using the T25 Torx Screwdriver, remove the four torx screws by the powertrain (circled in yellow, two on each side)
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When removing the last screw, make sure to place your hand under the planetary gear as it is heavy and will fall out immediately.
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Remove the hall effect sensor from its mount by pressing down on the tab (circled in yellow in the first picture) and sliding it out.
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Disconnect the power cable by holding down the clip on the right side of the plug (circled in blue in the second picture) and pulling the plug straight up.
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The powertrain is comprised of the motor, the gearbox, and the transfer gears. Unlike previous generations of KitchenAid AC Motor bowl-lift mixers, which had these broken in to discrete parts, this is a single unit.
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Using a #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the four screws (circled in yellow, two on each side) attaching the powertrain to the mixer body.
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Remove the powertrain/motor, placing it to the side in a safe location where it can't get damaged.
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Using a #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two screws (circled in yellow in the first image) holding the speed/motor control assembly to the mixer body.
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Pivot the assembly up to reveal the power connector (circled in blue in the second image).
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Disconnect the power connector from the speed/motor control assembly by depressing the tab (circled in green in the third image) and pulling upwards.
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Remove the speed/motor assembly.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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14 Commenti
Thanks for the teardown!
So this makes it quite easy to swap from a US version to 230V by getting a new motor and a speed controller?
You are very welcome! Pretty much, yes.
It's not very difficult if you are comfortable using a screwdriver. While not exactly cheap, the difference in cost between the USA and some 230V countries could make it worth it. Also, don't forget the power cord. Yes you could use an outlet adapter but overtime they don't tend to like the high initial currents posed by motors. Plus, if you have already removed the motor and control board, it is only one more screw to remove the power cord.
Good point about the cord, thanks.
Yes, the price difference in many 230V countries is indeed much higher than the parts cost and often the newer models are not even available. So I will try to do the motor/controller swap.
Hi
I bought a 120v KitchenAid mixer from the USA and as my country voltage is 220v so I used a voltage transformer. So there is a problem. After I move the switch to ON the Mixer turn on for 2 second and turn off. This problem is for the newest models but for the previous models we didn't see this problem. Do you know what is the problem?
Hi, the new models have a much more advanced motor controller compared to previous generations. It is possible that the board is detecting the 50Hz line frequency and shutting the mixer off. Alternately, it could be that something about the 50Hz is causing the motor to run slower than the speed control circuit can tolerate.
