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Cosa ti serve
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Con il case chiuso, posizionare l'Unibody capovolto su una superficie piatta.
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Premere il lato scanalato della chiusura di sgancio dello sportello di accesso, affinché sia possibile prendere l'estremità libera con le mani. Sollevare la chiusura di sgancio finché non è in posizione verticale.
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Prendere la linguetta di plastica bianca ed estrarre la batteria, rimuovendola dall'Unibody.
Great tutorial ! great step !
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Rimuovere le otto viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore al case:
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Una vite con testa a croce da 3 mm.
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Tre viti con testa a croce da 13,5 mm.
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Quattro viti con testa a croce da 3,5 mm.
Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...
Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.
You can get away with a Phillips #00 for many of the screws involved but the 4 at the bottom case split are likely to strip if you don’t use a JIS #00 or, in a pinch, a Phillips #000.
I used the Phillips #00 tip from my Pro Tech Toolkit, and it worked well enough. But yes, maybe #000 might have been better on the lower row of screws. Note to myself: Always read the comments first.
When replacing these screws, the order to replace them in is as follows:
1, Top left
2. Top right
3. Top center-left
4. Top center-right
5. Bottom center-right
6. Bottom center-left
7. Bottom right
8. Bottom left
I hope this information is helpful.
I followed my usual process of putting in all the screws loosely, then tightening them gradually in distributed pattern, to help ensure that the panel settles in place evenly. But maybe some orders are better.
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Con entrambe le mani, sollevare il case inferiore da quello superiore.
Thanks for the guide!
It's implicit in the two photos, but worth mentioning because it blocked my progress in this step for a bit: You have to put the release latch back into its horizontal, closed position before you can lift off the lower-case panel.
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Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.
Be EXTREMELY careful when removing and re-inserting the 'camera' cable. The contacts can be easily bent beyond repair if you try to force it back in. Damaging this cable at this connection or near the display may disable your ability to use your iSight camera, AND both your Bluetooth and WiFi. I had to pay apple $300 to replace the entire display assembly because one prong was faulty, causing my WiFi card to not be recognized.
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De-route the camera data cable from the channel in the optical drive.
Although I ordered the screen for an A1278 MacBook Unibody Aluminum, the screen glass was marked as a MacBook Pro. The iSight/WiFi /BT cable was about an inch longer than the Macbook one and took a bit of creative re-routing, but everything works fine.
has it got the airport and bluetooth modules built in separately in the display assembly as in the macbook late 2008 and mbp mid 2009?
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Remove the following screws securing the camera data cable and right speaker to the upper case:
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One 9.9 mm partially threaded Phillips screw
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One 9.6 mm threaded Phillips screw
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One 4 mm Phillips screw
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Slide the camera cable bracket out from under the subwoofer and remove it from the computer.
My model has different bracket, you need to remove the subwoofer first
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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.
i can't understand what I need to do in this step, I'm afraid with this step, i think i can "hurt" my mac and i don't want to do that, anyone knows what i need to do?
Thanks
There is a steel 'latch' that flips over from the left side of the connector, to the right side. After you flip this latch over, the cable will easily slide out.
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Remove the following two screws from the display data cable bracket:
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One 7 mm Phillips screw.
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One 5 mm Phillips screw.
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Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.
Note for Step 10 during reassembly: Be careful when replacing the screw for the display cable bracket closest to the magnetic power cord receptacle. The interior magnet might attract the screw causing the screw to get pulled under the DC power circuit board which might then require that you disassemble things again to retrieve the screw.
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Remove the two outer 6 mm Torx screws securing each side of the display to the upper case (4 screws total).
Hey guys, with these older models Do Not interchange different colored LVDS cables. Note the connector here is gold, do not use a silver connector on a gold one or vice versa. I fried a logic board this way on an A1278. Note that the core i7 lvds connector is different than the core i5.
I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!
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Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.
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Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.
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While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the 6 mm Torx screw from the lower display bracket.
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Remove the last remaining 6 mm Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
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Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.
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Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
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Lift the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
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4 Commenti
This worked perfectly. My brother had an old MacBook laying around that he had fried when he spilled a drink on it. As a result it sat for a few years after he bought a new computer. His top case was ruined and after some pestering gave me his "broken" mac. I just finished swapping the displays, my computer was 6 years old and my display had dead pixels and a broken isight(for the last three years!) Swapping the display assembly fixed everything. Total time: 2 hrs.
NOTE: Be very careful when removing the cables, always use less force then you think you need, you should be good to go!
My display has a huge stripe down the middle that is inverse contrast. When I have the display in a certain position, like if I bend the screen ALL the way back, it'll be fine but mostly the stripe will pop back. This leads me to think the display cable is loose or not seated properly. I got to about step 9 in this guide, cleaned the connectors and re-seated but it's still there. Any ideas? I think the cable might be messed up when it goes into the black plastic hinge part. Seems pinched?
Curious if you made any progress here -- my brother has exactly the same issue. I'm planning on replacing the assembly outright, but going to open it up first just to see if I can "un-pinch" it. If it's just the cable, I was thinking of replacing it, but it looks like I'd have to take the display apart more which I'm not up to doing (heat gun etc.).
Hey, just so you guys know, reassembling the display is a little tricky. The display might not go on straight, so don't tighten down all of the screws until you are sure the display is straight. You might not even have that problem, but I did with my MacBook.
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - Replica
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - Replica