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MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement, Battery: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.

    Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

    amiller770 - Replica

    Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

    Noah Nsangou - Replica

    mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine

    on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.

    david -

    I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

    2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

    2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

    Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

    Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

    scannon - Replica

    You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

    asle -

    There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...

    His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:

    Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

    Phil - 10/07/2015

    at0gjm -

    Bonjour j'ai besoin de cette bactérie que dois-je faire ?

    basile kouamé YAO - Replica

  2. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement, RAM Shield: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

  3. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

  4. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement, Upper Case: passo 4, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

    One of the screws here wouldn't bite going back in. I'm 100% certain it's the same screw that came out of it but it wouldn't bite going back, neither would any of the other two in this section in that particular hole.

    Damon B - Replica

    To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.

    I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.

    Yishai Sered - Replica

    No, these screws won’t bite going back in — struggled for an hour. Lost hope of success.

    Case screw holes perfectly lined-up, neatly closed body, screw threads/head are fine (Apple quality screws), perfect screwdriver.

    The left one is in, other two simply will not bite whatsoever. Slightly irritating eventually turned to madly infuriating. I have a similar, earlier model and that was smooth to replace these exact, slightly angled screws (so I have experience).

    Q: Are the centre and right-hand screws absolutely essential — or can I give up and leave them out?

    (By the time you read this, that’s what I’ll have done)(out of sheer frustration)

    Steve Arkwright - Replica

  5. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following six screws:

    • Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

    Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

    R L - Replica

    The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

    Alex - Replica

    These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.

    Andrew Patterson - Replica

  6. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

    When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

    isotope434 - Replica

  7. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

    Screw on the right is shorter

    mikefal - Replica

    What are these two screws called?

    ian - Replica

  8. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

  9. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

    • Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

    WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

    nya - Replica

    Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

    Troy - Replica

    Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

  10. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.

    • Remove the upper case.

    Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

    amiller770 - Replica

    It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

    Russ Greene - Replica

    how reconnect this cable?

    anatole - Replica

    I did this with and without step 10 (removing the upper case with detached cable). Removing the cable is risk, putting it back on was not so easy. But then, leaning the keyboard part against the LCD while replacing the hard drive is also risky.

    tobybaier - Replica

    After having successfully removed/reattached the ribbon cable several times while trying to revive this computer for back-up use the securing/release tabs on the connector broke. The connector then will not hold the cable properly and connecting fails. Tried various methods of propping the cable in the connector to get full contact but eventually all efforts failed, too. Result: essentially a dead motherboard as no replacement for the connector seems available. Sadly, not worth the extra effort to try further repairs.

    Steve colton - Replica

  11. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement, Display: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement, Display: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement, Display: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card, the iSight and inverter cables from the left side of the logic board, and the display data cable from the right side of the logic board. Be careful to slide the connectors as they may become damaged otherwise.

    • For A1229 and A1212 models, disconnect the three antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card and the three connectors highlighted on the logic board.

    • For the A1229, the order of the cables from left to right is: Black (left; towards the edge of the case) — Grey (middle) — Blue (right; towards the middle of the case.

    • For the A1261 model, disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card and the three connectors highlighted on the logic board.

    • Carefully peel the iSight and inverter cables off the top of the left fan and de-route the AirPort antenna cables from the channel in the left speaker.

    Remember to replace the little sponge-type object on top of the right-side set of 3 screws, towards the right.

    Andrew - Replica

    anybody got any advice re: how to detach the connector on that tiny little ribbon, the one on the upper left with the larger ribbon/connector alongside it? I tried and tried... gave up for fear of damaging the wires, plus concern about how difficult it might be to get it back in. Thx in adv

    firenzeitalia - Replica

    Firenzeitalia: The tiny little black one is the scariest part of the whole job. You need to use a firm spudger to slide it out to the left. Possibly even use the pointy end, but it slides out quite easily.

    The hard part is getting it to slide back in again later — especially if you have large fingers. Essentially, you’re going to have to do it blind — and by ‘feel’ — because you can’t see what you’re doing.

    Fortunately, Apple made it so that the black housing lines-up to the sides and the four tiny receptor prongs: once you’ve slid it into place and it looks correctly in, you then push down on it — to snap it in properly.

    This is the time to re-attach the keyboard (put a cloth over the screen), plug in power and turn the machine on to test you’ve done it right.

    If you’ve attached the tiny Inverter housing correctly, the screen will light up and boot as expected. If the screen remains black, remove the keyboard and cable again — gently — and check the Inverter and Display Data Cable are correctly inserted.

    Steve Arkwright - Replica

  12. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the ten silver T6 Torx screws securing the display (five on each side-take note that the inside screws on both sides are longer with a thinner head).

    • Don't forget to replace the hinge end caps when reinstalling the display assembly. The end caps are side specific, so be sure that the posts are facing towards the lower case.

    To clarify the placement of the different screws:

    There are two sets of 2 on each side and two sets of 3 on the insides. The "long" screws with "flat" heads are meant for the INSIDE of the sets of 3. I will represent short screws by the letter "S" and the long screws by the letter "L":

    S S - S S L - L S S - S S

    Andrew - Replica

    But what are the measurements of the screws? Its T6 but how many millimeters long is the screw?

    Sean Love -

    The longer two (middle) screws are about 14mm and the rest (identical) are approximately 10mm.

    Steve Arkwright - Replica

  13. MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261 Display Replacement: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Grasp the display assembly on both sides and lift it up and out of the computer.

    If you came to the Display Removal guide to replace just the LCD panel and not the entire assembly, you need to head over to the Front Bezel replacement guide.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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iRobot

Membro da: 09/24/09

1 Reputazione

636 Guide realizzate

3 Commenti

Does any one know what the pinout is on the display connector. I am assuming that the first 4 fairly spaced out pins are power. We got a working display form a broken A1229 and are planning to use the display for our experimental purposes. Before doing that we need to know if the display is any good.

thanks

PKNT - Replica

This is my first action with a used Apple laptop A1229. I’m a Vet, Army ‘72-’75 & worked/volunteered about 30 years helping ther Vets and families along with employers match up. My “frustration” as a newbie, is which way to move the pins, up, out, lift, don’t, etc. Would be nice to have close up pics of the ends and see some arrows or descriptors telling me what to do w/o damage. I bumped a short wire that rested w/sensor of some kind on top of MB and detached it, oh well. Trying to get screen to my wife’s laptop, then remove this logic board & hope it works and install into my used A1229 17” Mac Pro. Hoping to save up and purchase a used quad core 17” but time will tell. Thanks to all of you who are putting ut info, helps folks like me.

Gregg - Replica

I hate the screen replacement.

Jayden Bentley - Replica

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