Introduzione

Aggiornamento del disco rigido per un maggiore spazio di archiviazione. Alcuni alloggiamenti delle unità hanno un'altezza di 7 mm, mentre altri di 9,5 mm. In base alle dimensioni dell'alloggiamento dell'unità, potrebbe essere necessario un distanziatore per posizionare correttamente l'SSD.

Rimuovere le dieci viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore a quello superiore:
  • Rimuovere le dieci viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore a quello superiore:

    • Tre viti con testa a croce da 13,5 mm.

    • Sette viti con testa a croce da 3 mm.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Replica

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

xtophr -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Replica

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Replica

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Replica

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Replica

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Replica

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Replica

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Replica

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Replica

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Replica

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Replica

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Replica

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - Replica

Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

If so, what is the best way to do this?

Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

Sibyl Smith - Replica

I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

Pete Banks - Replica

Sollevare con entrambe le mani il case inferiore in prossimità della presa d'aria per estrarre le due levette di fissaggio al case superiore.
  • Sollevare con entrambe le mani il case inferiore in prossimità della presa d'aria per estrarre le due levette di fissaggio al case superiore.

  • Rimuovere il case inferiore e conservarlo altrove.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Replica

What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

michael - Replica

16 GB is the max

Bradon Kelley -

  • Per alcune riparazioni (ad es. il disco rigido), non occorre scollegare il connettore della batteria, ma ciò previene qualsiasi cortocircuito accidentale dei componenti elettronici sulla scheda madre.

  • Utilizzare l'estremità di un inseritore per rimuovere il connettore della batteria dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

  • Potrebbe essere utile fare leva verso l'alto su entrambi i lati del connettore, per agevolare l'estrazione dal connettore.

nails work pretty well as well...

Sibe Jan Kramer - Replica

At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

Other than that, an excellent guide!

Damienn - Replica

the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

the hard drive changing worked though.

nina - Replica

Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

Patrick.

Patrick Demaret - Replica

So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

Shelly - Replica

Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

Duke Briscoe -

I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

Jaime Serafim - Replica

Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

xtophr -

My battery won't work after reconnecting it, I made sure everything was done as stated, what can I do to fix this?

r1m111 - Replica

My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

Mazo - Replica

I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

Dave Kitabjian - Replica

  • Piegare leggermente il cavo della batteria per allontanarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, affinché non venga collegato accidentalmente durante le operazioni.

Move battery removal step to this point in upper case replacement guide.

Paul Palm - Replica

  • Rimuovere le due viti con testa a croce che fissano la staffa del disco rigido al case superiore.

  • Queste viti restano nella staffa del disco rigido.

love the attention to detail added to this step "screws are captive" thanks. :D

aaronmiller - Replica

  • Sollevare la staffa di fissaggio fuori dal case superiore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Sollevare il disco rigido dall'apposita linguetta ed estrarlo dal case, ricordando che è ancora collegato al computer tramite il cavo.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Scollegare il cavo del disco rigido estraendolo direttamente dall'unità stessa.

I just replaced my hard drive; but I notice that my ribbon cable does not have pins for one of the three connection sections of the new hard drive. It is a new SSHD, hybrid drive from Seagate, while my Mac is early 2011.

Does this matter that the far right port on the hard drive does not actually connect electronically to the ribbon cable?

I have been having issues with the computer (since installation) suddenly shutting off/freezing (persistently) with the need to force shut down. When I turn it back on, it often starts up trying to initiate Internet Recovery.

However, after that is completed I am able to go to disk utility and select the new hard drive like it was always there.

I do not know if this is a function of a faulty hard drive, the ribbon, or something pricier; but it is getting worse.

Now it starts up to just a blue screen or white screen. I checked out the physical hard drive and somehow the ribbon cable had become bent and squished underneath it.

Could this be the source of all my problems?

Hunter Lindberg - Replica

You might be referring to the four pin section that would be used for jumpers. These are a hold-over from older IDE hard drives, where the placment of a jumper on the corresponding pins would dedesignate a drive as either Master, Slave or, on newer iterations Cable Select. To my knowledge the pins are not used in most applications of SATA hard drives.

Michael -

  • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T6 da ciascun lato del disco rigido, per un totale di quattro viti.

  • Se stai sostituendo il disco, devi trasferire queste viti sulla nuova unità.

  • Volendo, puoi staccare la linguetta di estrazione dal tuo vecchio disco e trasferirla sulla nuova unità.

  • Se stai installando un nuovo disco fisso, abbiamo una guida di installazione OS X per aiutarti a tornare rapidamente al lavoro.

what is the maximum tall of supported harddrives?

patrick - Replica

i just successfully installed a Samsung spinpoint 1000Gb HDD.

Sibe Jan Kramer -

I looked up the Samsung spinpoint: It's 9.5mm thick/tall.

The Hitachi removed in the video is also 9.5mm thick.

enlimydna - Replica

yes 9.5 mm work fine!

KlawWarYoshi - Replica

Making your SATA3 drive work, in your early or late 2011 15"mbp:

If you are unfortunate, and have the "faster" SATA3 chipset for the optical bay, use a hard drive that is either ONLY SATA2 or has a bootable utility you can use to FORCE the drive to run at SATA2 (3gpbs) ONLY. Otherwise, the hard drive (in the optical bay) will NOT be recognizable by the system...This is a lesson in futility, but....There is a cure. I know for *SURE* if you use fast (as of 2014.08) HGST 7k1000 (model HTS721010A9E630), you will NOT be able to run it at 6Gbps. You WILL be able to run it at 3Gbps though, and that beats 0Gbps!

1. Get the HDDFT10.iso (from here: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.p... ),

2. Burn it to a CD

3. Plug in a USB keyboard WITH FUNCTION KEYS (You WILL need them)

4. Holding down the Option key, select the CD when you boot up

5. When prompted, hit F1 to change drives

6. Hit F3 to change to 3Gbps

7. Reboot

8. *POOF* magic Pixie Dust rains down upon you...and your MBP

clay - Replica

If you want to install OSX on it, this is what I've done (without a USB or bootable drive). First, if you're replacing the hard drive with the SSD (for example), then you just need to plug in the harddrive you replaced and boot it up via USB. Format the new hard drive you installed as a Mac OS Journal (eg: a drive that Mac understands it can install an OS on). Then, restart the computer, press CMD+OPT+R to start up the internet recovery off of the USB-attached hard drive, which will allow you to install a copy of Lion or Mavericks or Yosemite (depends on what was on your old hard drive) to the new one within the computer.

So far, It's installing and it seems to be doing amazingly well.

kratsgfixit - Replica

Kratsgfixit-

Could you format the new drive before taking out the old one and replacing it? I'd rather know I had it formatted correctly, etc....before taking the old one out and putting a new SSD in. Could I just put the new SSD into one of those eSata drive holders (sorry can't remember official name) that connects via USB and do it using the instructions you provided in your post?

Liz -

I found out the hard way that the HDD screws are actually hex; 1.3mm if I remember correctly. I actually ended up stripping one of them by using a torx bit.

jelimoore - Replica

The nuts sticking out of the hard drive are definitely not T6 Torx, the smallest key in my hex set worked, which I believe says .05 inches on it.

Thom B - Replica

Yes. .05 worked. Thank you.

Karen Fitzer -

I had to reset the SMC after installation to fix the fan noise (https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295).

anonymous 9048 - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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This made me feel like techie instead of a newbie!

djsnooze831 - Replica

Hi, Im going to replace my mac hard drive. Looking at this guide it seems that I wont have too much difficulty in doing so, but do i need to format the new hard drive before I replace the old one? or can I just replace it and then format it when I boot it up for the first time?

Jamie - Replica

U don't need to format the hdd before you replace it with the ssd

Arfan Ali - Replica

will this fix my hard drive corruption.. i received a mac from ebay with no disk utility aswell

mshawn600 - Replica

I have the MacBook Pro mid-2012 15" and I have installed Samsung SSD 840 EVO 2.5" form factor drive and it fits fine. Really makes the MacBook fast.

Francisco Moreno - Replica

I just measured the SSD thickness of a Samsung 850 EVO and it is 7mm. The Samsung spec sheet didn't have that info, it just said it was a 2.5" form factor. BTW, I also removed the DVD drive and installed another SSD as well. OWC has a good drive adapter to do this, called DataDoubler.

Francisco Moreno - Replica

Following this excellent guide, I had my hard drive out in just minutes.

Robert See - Replica

In terms of the practical hard drive swap itself, this guide was perfect, and it took 5 minutes. I didn't know though, that I had to partition my new hard drive before I could install new OSx. Found the info elsewhere, but would be useful to have it on this guide. Thanks

cloud.tzu - Replica

Thank you. Clean and simple.

David - Replica

What is the best way to get all my data from the old hd to the new ssd?

Aaron Moore - Replica

1. Install new (blank) hard drive in external enclosure. 2. Use Carbon Copy Cloner to literally clone your internal HD to the new drive. 3. Install new drive.

Gary -

Thanks for the great info. I have a mid 2012 15" non-retina macbook pro (non-SSD). Its specs are 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7, RAM 8GB, Graphics 1GB. Do you think if I upgrade to a SSD my mac would be able to run Adobe premiere pro, after effects, FCPX and photoshop better. Some apps crash at times and it really slows down if I try to edit 1080 videos. I mainly do weddings, so the projects are not that small. Thanks again.

Amandeep Singh Multani - Replica

1. Install new (blank) hard drive in external enclosure. 2. Use Carbon Copy Cloner to literally clone your internal HD to the new drive. 3. Install new drive.

Gary - May 3

That made me think of a more straightforward way of installing a new hard drive in my MacBook Pro.

Right now I boot from an external ( 1 TB ) USB drive, bootable copy made with SuperDuper!.

I intend to replace the internal drive ( 500 MB ) with un-formatted, fresh 1TB hard drive.

I wonder if, with the external drive connected, and after formatting the new drive, I could just use the SuperDuper to simply copy on the new installed drive?

Thoughts much appreciated,

AperteDeVue

AperteDeVue - Replica

No matter what you are working on, whenever the back is off of the computer, the first thing that should be done is disconnect the battery.

As long as the battery is connected, there is power going to the motherboard and if anything were to touch it while it is powered, you could easily cause several hundred dollars worth of damage. While the motherboard is powered up, there is always a danger of something rolling onto it, such as one of the screws you are removing while you're working on the hard drive. in fact, disconnecting the battery will still leave many of the motherboard components with a charge so great care should be taken not to touch the motherboard even when the battery is disconnected.

Electronic damage to a motherboard can be catastrophic and in many cases can cost more to repair than the computer worth. The battery should not be reconnected until you are ready to close the back of the computer.

Tony Ketcham - Replica

If you are going to show how to replace the hard drive, Why would you have them remove the old hard drive without explaining to them that they should back up all of their important data first need to clone the information off of their old one first?

As far as I can tell, you have everybody removing the old hard drive without ever transferring their data.

Here is a link that explains in step one everything you need to do to before you start taking your computer apart

https://www.cnet.com/how-to/upgrade-your...

Tony Ketcham - Replica

Easy to do upgrade my MacBook to an SSD took about 10 minutes. But then i was trying to reinstalling macOS and that took a long time cause i was transferring all the information off the old HDD

Benjamin Manning - Replica

I purchased a 2.5” 1TB to replace the 250Gb storage only to find out that the 250Gb is a flash drive and there is NO way a standard optical drive will fit! As I had already formatted and copied all my files onto the new drive I could not return it to the supplier. A small consolation is that the 15” has 2 USB3 ports so I will be able to use it as an external without too much hassle.

janekszy46 - Replica

This model uses a standard 2.5” laptop drive, as shown in the photos. If you have a Retina model then yes, it’s a whole different animal. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

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